Portugal
Esposende

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    • Day 11

      Day 3 - Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende

      April 14 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      Day 3 on the Camino and the skies continue to be blue and the temperature warm. The same is forecasted for at least the next 10 days. This area has had so much rain previously that we were very nervous for our planned time here but we have been very lucky weather wise, so far.

      Today being Sunday, there were loads of families out walking and enjoying the beaches. We left later than we normally like because I (Peg) couldn’t pass up the free breakfast, that came with our room last night, but it wasn’t served until 8am. We arrived at our Albergue about 3:00 with many stops along the way to refuel our bodies and rest our weary bones. Tomorrow we have further distance to cover so will be leaving earlier.

      As they say in Portugal, Bom Caminha!
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    • Day 5

      We Keep Walking!

      October 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

      We moved away from the coast today and entered a more rural landscape, walking on cobblestones and dirt paths. The continued rains here have made a muddy mess but at least in the villages, forests and vineyards, while it was chilly, we weren’t battling that stiff north wind. It did rain a lot today but there were also sunny times and a rainbow! The forests were lush and beautiful but some of the ways we went down the mountain would definitely not be approved by my orthopaedic surgeon! We crossed over the river Nieva on a sketchy looking concrete block bridge and I held my breath the whole time! Ultimately we clocked 19.75 miles, 48,515 steps and 58 flights of stairs today- a record for me and I feel it tonight!
      Passing through the villages we visited so many churches and chapels. There is understandably a particular devotion here to Our Lady of Fatima and almost every church has some type of remembrance. At Castelo de Nieva we saw the first church in Portugal ever consecrated to S. James- it dated back to 862 AD. In Viana do Castelo we walked over an iron bridge called the Ponté Eiffel to cross the river Lima- it was done by the Eiffel school and was pretty cool! Before we climbed the 600 feet up to our alburgue (rooming house) we stopped for a Pilgrim meal, a set menu including wine at a cheap price. Delicious! We are staying at the Alburgue San Luzia which is connected to the Sé (cathedral) - the reward of having the most amazing view of the city was worth the effort of the 600 meter climb- there are many sweet pilgrims also now staying here who we now consider our friends- now off to sleep- more adventures tomorrow! Fingers crossed the rain stops!!
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    • Day 5

      Day 4 - Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende

      April 26 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Woke at 3am and couldn’t get back to sleep, so finally gave up and hit the road just before 6am. Slight panic that the blister I have would hinder the journey, but after a while I didn’t even feel it.
      Lots of coffee stops to break up the walk, and quite a few cats. If I could, I would take them all home and look after them 😕
      Back to hostel living tonight, but have just the one roommate - Rita from London. Other walkers have been slightly standoffish but that’s ok - we’re all just doing our own thing, afterall. The locals on the other hand have been delightful and those little interactions have brought a smile to my face. From the man who came out of the cemetery to try and give me a walking pole someone had left behind - not a dead person, but a girl who’d just walked past and left it at the cemetery gate - to the cyclist who told me “de santo não tem nada!” when I said “santinha!” to his friend, to everyone who says “bom dia”, people have been friendly and welcoming.
      Also, food, glorious food! Had bacalhao a bras followed by arroz doce for lunch, and promptly fell into a food coma when I checked in 🤣
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    • Day 23

      Day 18 - to Esposende

      May 13, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      This was our easiest walk yet - exactly 15 miles and no hills. A bit windy near the end but not bad - and no sand storm. We really weren't even tired when finishing.

      Part of the walk was right along the beach while other parts were through towns and green spaces. We passed by a golf course that was just off the beach and saw a few football matches.

      For several hours, we were accompanied by 29 year old Oleh from the Ukraine. Oleh is living and working in Munich. He went there to complete his master's and then got a job. When the war in Ukraine started, his father lost his job. It was decided that Oleh would stay in Germany to work and help support his family in the Ukraine while his 59 year old father serves in the artillery of Ukraine's army. He can not go back to Ukraine. From this mother's perspective, it breaks my heart. He is walking the Camino looking for an emotional respite as the last year has been emotionally very difficult for him.

      We had lunch at a cafe in Fao, just a short distance before we stopped for the day. The owner was quite friendly and even provided his card with phone number in the event we needed help. Right before leaving, he decorated 2 stones as souvenirs.
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    • Day 33

      Esposende

      January 10 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Fast nur Portugiesen füllen den großen Platz neben der Polizei und der Bushaltestelle. Ein Fahrzeug sticht raus, deshalb habe ich es fotografiert.

      Wir fahren nochmal zu verschiedenen Stellen am Wasser, machen am Observatorium einen schönen Spaziergang und begegnen dem Krippenspiel in der XXL - Version.

      Zurück auf dem Stellplatz parken wir neben einem deutschen Camper, den wir schon in Afifi gesehen haben, wo zumindest mal ein kurzer Gruß ausgetauscht wurde.

      Portugal ist eine andere Zeitzone, das verkompliziert meine medizinische Abteilung, sodass ich mich erst einstellen muss.

      Jetzt wird es also noch früher dunkel, dafür um sieben Uhr morgens hell. Also zumindest das, was die Regenwolken als Tag bezeichnen.

      Die Temperatur ist gestiegen, von 7 auf 15, geradezu ein Quantensprung. Um 19 Uhr sind noch 13 °C, die sich bis morgen früh um acht Uhr auf null Grad absenken werden.
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    • Day 23

      Day 20/9 Vila do Conde to Esposende

      May 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      With another big walk ahead of us, we hit the road at 7:00 this morning under overcast skies and 17 degrees with a forecast of rain from 8:00 to 11:00.

      The first few kilometers of the day ran through residential neighborhoods with little excitement except for a trio of ducks waddling down the sidewalk. But, before we knew it, we were strolling oceanside along the longest boardwalk I've ever seen.

      We had planned to stop for coffee at A Ver-O-Mar, but found nothing open this Monday morning. We pushed on to the next town, Aguçadoura, located at the 10.9 km mark, and still had no luck until Brenda found a "top-rated" pastry shop 8 minutes off the Caminho trail. And that's where things got interesting.

      Yesterday, during dinner, one of Brenda's dental crowns disintegrated. We called our travel insurance provider who confirmed this was not covered by our plan, but gave us the name of a dentist in Esposende. While at the cafe in Aguçadoura, I managed to reach the dentist and, with my one month's Duolingo Portuguese training, succeeded in communicating Brenda's need for an emergency appointment that afternoon. And then the receptionist responded and totally lost me. Brenda turned to the couple seated at the table next to us and asked if they spoke English and they kindly offered to assist us. As it turned out, the woman is from Agaçadoura, but has been living in Toronto with her husband for the last eighteen years! Unfortunately, the dental office had no appointments available, but we were once again treated to the unbelievable kindness of the Portuguese people. On top of that, the pastries were outstanding.

      That little detour and chat with fellow Canadians put us far behind Anita and Ernie, but we caught up with them in Apulia at the 17.6 km mark. While we were chasing them down, the skies opened and we had our first real exposure to rain since I arrived. We walked for about ninety minutes in the rain, which was quite heavy at times. I'm pleased to report that my quick-drying clothing worked extremely well and was not even damp when we started back on the trail for the final 7 kms to Esposende.

      As luck would have it, Brenda managed to book a 4:00 dentist appointment and had a temporary crown installed on her exposed tooth.

      Tomorrow is another long day: 26.4 kms to Viana do Castelo as we get closer and closer to the Spanish border.

      They say that The Caminho will always take care of you and, with all our good fortune today, the proof was in the pudding.
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    • Day 1

      Day 2 - Porto to Esposende

      June 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Wow , what a first day in the saddle. 60km all relatively flat. I chose to do the coastal route due to the weather conditions. With three days of thunderstorms and rain forecast along all of the route it was inevitable that I would be getting wet at some point.
      Leaving Porto was difficult in all of the traffic and trams, but once over the bridge it was a beautiful coastal ride. Bicycles are not allowed on some of the boardwalks that are reserved for walkers only, I rode the cycle paths along side them, although it was not a challenging day in the saddle, it was a stunningly beautiful one. I stopped in Vila do Conde at lunch time and to get the obligatory stamp, which came free with a small beer, so why not indulge. Leaving Vila do Condo was on kilometres of cobbles roads. Took me straight back to when I did the Paris Roubaix sportif. Lots of memories flooded back, making it a hard emotional day, solo riding in the rain, some tears shed, but I realised that each solo peddle stroke is one closer to healing.
      With the thunderstorms really coming in strong I decided to check into a small hostel for the evening. After a shower and change, headed out into Esposende for a good old fashion northern mooch. Finding a little French bar and chatting to the owners in French, what a treat. They gave me some French wine and some of their own French cheese. God love the French. I have missed it.
      Tomorrow it’s an early start to miss the rain. Until then Bonne Nuit mon amours.
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    • Day 21

      Esposende Day #2

      June 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

      Day #2 According to my itinerary today was an average day with respect to a distance of 20 km 27, 300 steps. We walked along the coast then through ‘greenhouse’ country, a bit of bush with lots of eucalypts , into Fao ( good coffee) crossed a river and along the sea front to a lovely quiet hitel in Esposende. A highlight was a superb mural ‘Women of the sea etched in concrete.
      It isn’t very busy on the track but I reckon in a month it’ll liven up. Met an ‘octapussy’ fisherman, got passed by cyclist and a motorised kite! Loving the hydrangeas, fishing boats and villages
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    • Day 21

      Povoa De Varzim-Esposende #2

      June 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

      Day #2 According to my itinerary today was an average day with respect to a distance of 20 km 27, 300 steps. We walked along the coast then through ‘greenhouse’ country, a bit of bush with lots of eucalypts , into Fao ( good coffee) crossed a river and along the sea front to a lovely quiet hitel in Esposende. A highlight was a superb mural ‘Women of the sea etched in concrete.
      It isn’t very busy on the track but I reckon in a month it’ll liven up. Met an ‘octapussy’ fisherman, got passed by cyclist and a motorised kite! Loving the hydrangeas, fishing boats and villages
      Read more

    • Day 72

      Radtour im NP Litoral Norte

      April 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Am Nachmittag fahren wir weiter entlang der Küste nach Norden und machen in Esposende eine kleine Radtour durch den NP Litoral Norte. Der kleine Naturpark liegt an den Flussmündungen der Flüsse Cávado und Neiva. Wir radeln durch Dünen und kleine Kiefernwälder.Read more

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