Porto to Santiago by bicycle Read more
  • 8footprints
  • 2countries
  • 5days
  • 93photos
  • 10videos
  • 1.2kkilometers
  • 469kilometers
  • 99kilometers
  • Day 1 Porto cathedral

    June 6, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    I have arrived at Porto and purchased the infamous Camino passport, which I will get stamped along the route to evidence my journey. Once I arrive at Santiago this entitles me to a certificate of completion of the pilgrimage. My bike arrived in my room with a missing part, note to self always unpack your own shit! Not to worry as I found it in the boot of the car, it has just been missed. The bike is now all packed up and I am ready to go out for dinner before an early night. The forecast has been amazing these last few days in Porto however tomorrow we have three days of rain forecast. This was a trip to test my equipment and stamina for the pending Great Divide trip, so watch this space, it’s likely to be tougher than I originally expected.Read more

  • Day 1

    Day 2 - Porto to Esposende

    June 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Wow , what a first day in the saddle. 60km all relatively flat. I chose to do the coastal route due to the weather conditions. With three days of thunderstorms and rain forecast along all of the route it was inevitable that I would be getting wet at some point.
    Leaving Porto was difficult in all of the traffic and trams, but once over the bridge it was a beautiful coastal ride. Bicycles are not allowed on some of the boardwalks that are reserved for walkers only, I rode the cycle paths along side them, although it was not a challenging day in the saddle, it was a stunningly beautiful one. I stopped in Vila do Conde at lunch time and to get the obligatory stamp, which came free with a small beer, so why not indulge. Leaving Vila do Condo was on kilometres of cobbles roads. Took me straight back to when I did the Paris Roubaix sportif. Lots of memories flooded back, making it a hard emotional day, solo riding in the rain, some tears shed, but I realised that each solo peddle stroke is one closer to healing.
    With the thunderstorms really coming in strong I decided to check into a small hostel for the evening. After a shower and change, headed out into Esposende for a good old fashion northern mooch. Finding a little French bar and chatting to the owners in French, what a treat. They gave me some French wine and some of their own French cheese. God love the French. I have missed it.
    Tomorrow it’s an early start to miss the rain. Until then Bonne Nuit mon amours.
    Read more

  • Day 2

    Day 3 Esposende to Baiona

    June 8, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Up and at em at 6am with a view to setting off at 7am.
    When I arrived to collect my bike from the store room I met Kevin, he was admiring my bike and asking about all the kit. Turns out he wants to do the great divide but can’t convince his wife to do it just yet. We chatted for ages. The plan was to get breakfast on route but we ended up eating at the hotel and setting off late at 8am. He was headed south back to Porto. But he did say not to follow the cycle paths and roads, “follow the true Camino pedestrians route, it’s challenging but worth it along the rugged coast line”. He airdropped me the map. I thought I will get to Viana do Castelo and decide if I’ll be going inland on the traditional cycling road route or stick with the coastal route.
    On arriving at Viana do Castelo I got a stamp at the train station and the heavens opened. Real north west UK rain, that stuff that gets you soaking wet!
    Some one told me that sailers are not made on calm waters so I put on my waterproof and headed out.
    I decided to stop for a coffee at a beautiful beach cafe after feeling a little down by the weather. Also thinking to myself, it would be better to hike so I could chat and meet more people. Next thing 4 bike-packing cyclists came past! Trust the Camino to deliver.
    Not one to miss an opportunity I paid for my coffee and caught them up. They were Andy and Laury-Anne from Colorado (not far off the great divide route as it happens!) cycling with their French friends.
    I asked if I could join them as they too were following to coastal route. The company was very welcome and great fun.
    We all caught the famous ferry to Spain, that was a real treat and quite the experience best 7 euros spent in a long time. Just when I was thinking of how I can make this ride shorter, I didn’t expect it to be so lonely, cycling this route, and these wonderful people turn up.
    As it happened I was the most experienced cyclist and the only one with a map…!!
    So I soon became the ride leader. We cycled through all weathers, along boardwalks through forests and along rugged coast lines.
    I had to take a personal call so let the group cycle on for the last 10km, on catching them up at speed and in the rain I managed to take a corner too fast and came off. For the second time in as many weeks in the rain! So I now have matching right thigh and leg bruises! (The bike is ok!)
    Checking into the same hotel we all got changed and went for a beer and food then early to bed after a whopping 90km and 7 hours in the saddle today.
    Lesson for today. Enjoy the journey, you really don’t know what delights are round the corner, even if you are cold, wet and in a ridiculous orange rain jacket looking as if you have just been tangoed, fun may be just round the corner. The universe has a plan greater than the one you have for yourself.

    Until tomorrow Bonne nuit mon amours ❤️
    Read more

  • Day 3

    Day 4 - Baiona to Pontevedra

    June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Never rely on google or technology, either one can let you down at any point. After a wonderful nights sleep and a hearty breakfast we set off as a group of five onto the coastal route to Pontevedra. Deciding to follow a google app and go through Vego. The first 25km was beautiful despite the constant rain once again. Stopping off to shelter in garden centres and taking delight from life’s simple pleasures like how delightful a banana can taste when you didn’t expect it and get given it one from a total stranger.
    If anyone is thinking of doing this route, avoid Vego coast line. It’s an industrial port, super busy and with very dangerous roads. As a detour to avoid the industrial section it was a steep climb into town.
    One of our group was struggling with the climbs so we were going a little slower than planned. I know everyone should do their own ride, but part of cycling that I learnt from my time at Chorley cycling club and now with the Los Bandidos in a group, you are only as fast or as slow as your last rider, never leave a soldier behind, many a time that has been me and I was always looked after by a kind sole. Garmin watch ran out of battery and google apps let us down. But friends and a joint purpose got us through the 60+ ish Kilometres with a lot of food and pedal power.
    Looking more like a wet strawberry rather than an orange today.
    What will I take from the day…, it was nice to be called kind for looking after people and it gave me confidence that I am strong enough for the next challenge ahead.
    Tomorrow I head to Santiago de Compostela, the last stop on this little adventure. Super excited, for now it’s a white wine, chocolate crepes and cheers

    Bonne nuit mon amours xx
    Read more

  • Day 4

    Day 5- Santiago de Compostela

    June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    63 tough kilometres to Santiago. Setting off with my American friends at 9am (yes in the rain again!) we followed the walking pilgrim route. What a path! We decided to split as a group and I soon latched on with a group of Portuguese mountain bikers, everyone is super friendly all headed to the same place. It was some of the most challenging but beautiful trails of the route so far. At times it was tough keeping up with them but I dug deep and stuck in there for 47km. We all stopped for lunch in a real characterful place, and the sun even made an appearance. Meeting more people, chatting and laughing about the day over a beer and croissant. Everyone has their own story and reasons to walk or bike the Camino, and even more willing to share if you take the time to just ask. There is a saying on the Camino, Blessed are you pilgrim if when you contemplate the Camino and you discover it’s is full of names and dawns

    Blessed are you if you have discovers that the authentic Camino begins when it is completed

    Blessed are you if your knapsack is emptying of things and your heart does not know where to hang up so many feelings and emotions

    Blessed are you if you discover that one step back to help another is more valuable that a hundred forward without seeing what is at your side

    When you don’t have the words to give thanks for everything that surprises you at every twist and turn of the way.

    I can say with a full heart that everyone of these I have experienced in such a short time. 5 days in the saddle and what an experience.

    I arrived in Santiago at 15h, battered, bruised and very tired, but the atmosphere of finishing pilgrims was electric, the groups that I had cycled with saw me and came over to congratulate me, people I had passed I saw later in the day hugging and congratulating each other like long lost friends, such special moments. After a long hot shower and collecting my certificate of completion I am now sat silent and alone in a busy square with a lovey glass of well earned red wine contemplating the last few days, pondering where to eat and wondering what lovely people I will meet this evening.

    If on the way you meet yourself and gift yourself with time without rushing so as not to disregard the image of your heart you are truly blessed.

    May the road rise to meet you may the wind always be at your back, May the sun shine warm on your face any the rain fall soft upon your fields. No advice for a chafing pilgrims arse though🤫which would have been useful.

    until we meet again, may the universe hold you in the hollow of its hand

    Bonne nuit mon amours ❤️
    Read more