Portugal
Largo do Dr. Jaime Magalhães

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    • Day 51

      A Day Trip to Aveiro

      November 7, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      We took a day trip today, an hour+ train ride south to Aveiro, the "Venice of Portugal"!

      On the Camino, we had met an American woman now living in Portugal, who told us about Aveiro. She and her husband live there now.

      It is a great little city, on a big bay set back from the coast, with a network of canals. The Gondola Canal boats are still taking tourists for 45 minute rides around the canals.

      The weather was nice, cloudy but warm enough.

      Some beautiful exterior ceramic tile exteriors on buildings in the Old Town!
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    • Day 169

      AV - Walking around

      September 16, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      🇧🇷 Saímos a comer uma deliciosa Parrilla e a tomar vinhos portugueses, depois saímos a caminhar pelo centro de Aveiro para conhecer mais da cidade.

      🇦🇷 Salimos a comer una rica Parrilla y beber vinos portugueses, luego nos fuimos a dar un paseo por el centro de Aveiro para conocer más de la ciudad.

      🇺🇸 We went out to eat a delicious Parrilla and drink Portuguese wines, then we went for a walk through the center of Aveiro to learn more about the city.
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    • Day 184

      AV - Oita Croissanteria

      October 1, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      🇧🇷 A Oita Croissanteria é um clássico café que foi inaugurado em 1984 e persiste no mesmo local até hoje, sempre com muitas filas, fomos lá para provar o famoso croissant recheado com vitela, um copo de suco natural de laranja e um cafezinho para finalizar. O local está dentro do primeiro shopping centre de Aveiro.

      🇦🇷 Oita Croissanteria es un café clásico que abrió en 1984 y permanece en el mismo lugar hasta hoy, siempre con muchas filas, fuimos allí a degustar el famoso croissant relleno de ternera, un vaso de jugo de naranja natural y un café para terminar. La ubicación está dentro del primer centro comercial en Aveiro.

      🇺🇸 Oita Croissanteria is a classic cafe that opened in 1984 and remains in the same place until today, always with many lines, we went there to taste the famous croissant stuffed with veal, a glass of natural orange juice and a coffee to finish . The location is inside the first mall of Aveiro.
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    • Day 67

      Aveiro

      April 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Aveiro, immerhin 74.000 Einwohner, ist vom Wasser geprägt. Salzige Wattenmeerluft und ein besonderes Licht machen deutlich, wir sind wieder am Atlantik.
      Aveiro liegt an einer Lagune, drei Kanäle durchziehen die Altstadt und machen den Weg ins Meer frei für Fischer und Bootstouristen.
      Salzgewinnung und die Verarbeitung des Kabeljaus machten die Stadt schon lange bedeutend. Im 16. Jahrhundert lebten hier schon 12.000 Menschen.
      Am Ende des 17. Jahrhunderts versandete die Hafenzufahrt und Aveiro verarmte und entvölkerte sich.
      Erst um 1820 gelang es, die Hafeneinfahrt wieder zugänglich zu machen und der Anschluss an die Eisenbahn Lissabon - Porto brachte eine neue Blüte.
      Heute ist die Stadt eine moderne Universitätsstadt mit 18.000 Studenten vor allem in technischen Studiengängen.
      In der Altstadt sind alle Straßen und Wege mit wunderschönen portugiesischen Pflaster mit maritimen Motiven in schwarz-weiß ausgestattet. Zahlreiche aufwändig restaurierte Jugendstilvillen stehen zwischen Canal Central und Canal ao Roque. Das Bahnhofsgebäude wurde 1916 wunderschön mit Azulejos ausgestattet, die in den letzten Jahren ebenfalls saniert wurden.
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    • Day 3

      Aveiro

      October 30, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      ... unser nächster Stop war eine kleine gemütliche Stadt namens Aveiro, durch einige Känale könnte es mit bisschen mehr Sonne sogar ein wenig Venedig-Flair haben. Leider wurden wir von einem starken Regenguss zum vorzeitigen Mittagessen gezwungen.. Nichts destotrotz gab es einen schöne Spaziergang durch kleine Gassen, in Gotteshäuser, an Bummelläden vorbei.. und wieder viele bunte Kacheln 😉Read more

    • Moliceiro Ride on Aveiro's Canals

      February 19, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      “When in Aveiro, one must take the lovely Moliceiro Boat ride along the Ria!” Would you turn that ad down if you saw it? Especially if the skies were blue and it was 20C and we were in the So-called “Venice of Portugal”?

      All the roads that we walked on, followed the canals that went through Aveiro. The boats, moliceiros, that we saw on the canals were not always tourist boats. During the 19th century, they were used in seaweed harvesting. This ‘seaweed’ was also mixed with the sludge that accumulated in the bottom of the river. After being collected, it was laid down on threshing floors to dry and once dry was used as a fertilizer in the sandy soils which belonged to farmers in the area. But as seaweed was progressively replaced by chemical fertilizers, this activity declined throughout the 20th century.

      A few decades ago, the old Aveiro “Ria” shipyards were reactivated in order to bring the moliceiros back to life and to teach willing learners the old manual manufacturing techniques used to build these boats. These new boats began to be used as tourist boats. Small and colourful, painted in the bow and the stern with traditional bright coloured drawings which represent historical facts or show religious scenes, moliceiros cruise through the “Ria”, giving tourists a good overview of the city of Aveiro, old and new.

      We decided on a 45 minute tour of the four canals of the city - the Central Canal, the Pyramid Canal, the São Roque Canal and the Cojo Canal. The captain started his engine and we were off.

      The Central Canal runs through the historic centre of the city and all of the beautiful Art Nouveau houses.

      Continuing on, we arrived at the Pyramids Canal, which provides access to salt fields of Aveiro. We thought it was named the Pyramid Canal due to the way that the salt is piled up into pyramidal shapes on the shore. But no, it is because of two columns, that look like pyramids, next to the sluice that controls the change in water levels due to the tides entering the city. This system maintains the water levels and keeps the river stable and safe for navigation.

      We backtracked a bit and went down the famous “São Roque” waterway. The “São João” Bridge is pretty low and we had to go through a small tunnel. It was a little tight.

      We loved going under a very peculiar, circular, iron pedestrian loop bridge which connected the most historic part of the city to a leisure park on the other bank. People were walking their dogs, bicycling and doing exercises on outdoor equipment.

      We passed warehouses full of salt and fish. Close by, down another small canal, was the daily fish market.

      Returning to the docks where we had started out, we continued down the Cojo Canal, past the very modern Aveiro Forum, an outdoor shopping mall and went under the “Carcavelos” Bridge, also known as Valentine’s Bridge. Built in 1953, 11 years after the original bridge fell apart, it became a place where lovebirds could tie ribbons to the railings. Locks could have been used but ahead-thinking planners pushed for a lighter and more colourful way to decorate the bridge.

      At the end of this very trendy area, we came to the impressive Fonte Nova factory which made tiles for the outside of houses at the beginning of the 1900’s.

      After about 40 minutes we returned to the small pier in front of a beautiful building called the Capitancy building, dating from the 15th Century. It used to be a tidal mill and now is the head office of the municipal assembly. The structure is resting on a set of arcs that we could see as the tide was low. Earlier we had gone into it, to see a display of striking photographs taken all over the world by National Geographic professional photographers - Exodus.

      And so we ended our moliceiro ride. A pleasant boat ride on a beautiful spring-like day.
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    • Aveiro - the Venice of Portugal

      February 18, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Note - I just noticed that I hadn’t uploaded this footprint. Whoops!

      Rick Steves’ guidebook is full of good information regarding the part of Portugal that we are now exploring - the northwest area between Porto and Lisbon. We thought that we would spend 3 or 4 nights in a few of the more interesting cities as we travel south to Lisbon. Our first stop was only 1 hour away.

      We left Porto by train and arrived in a pretty, university city called Aveiro. It will be a nice change to be in a small city, close to the ocean.

      Aveiro is situated on an estuary of a river, surrounded by marshlands that run 50 km parallel to the sea. It is called the Venice of Portugal, because of the surrounding water (canals, lagoon and the nearby Atlantic Ocean). Years ago, the city flooded regularly but now they have it under control.

      Nowadays, Aveiro is also known for its salt pans and architecture. There are about 30 buildings that are built according to the Art Nouveau style.

      We arrived in the new train station (right next door to the bus station) and beside the old train station with its blue and white Portuguese tiles depicting life in Aveiro. The tiles were made in a big ex-tile factory in Aveiro in the early 1900s.

      A short walk brought us to our apartment for 3 days. The photos below were taken over the three days we were in Aveiro and give a quick view of some of the places we saw.
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    • Tiles on Old Aveiro Houses

      February 19, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      I read this today...

      There’s a Tile Theft Epidemic in Lisbon
      by JENNY BARCHFIELD FEB 19, 2019 in CityLab online Magazine

      “With a single azulejo fetching hundreds of euros at the city’s more reputable antique stores, these tiles, sitting there out in the open, are easy pickings.”

      Chris and I have been to a lot of towns and cities in Portugal where coloured tiles are used to decorate the outside of the houses but nowhere have we seen as many as we saw this afternoon in Aveiro. Pretty sad what is happening to these tiles in Lisbon.

      Tiles, or azulejos, were common in traditional Portuguese construction because they were affordable to the general public. In Aveiro, the use of tiles also provided waterproofing and were a form of decoration on houses built in somewhat boring-looking adobe (sun-dried clay bricks). Tiles with floral motifs were very sought after in the early 1900’s and these were produced locally in the Fonte Nova Factory, which now houses the Cultural and Congress Center.

      In a matter of 5 minutes, on one street, Chris was able to take photos of 10 different patterns of tiles on the old houses, and there were so many more. Here are Chris’ ‘5 minutes of tiles’ photos.
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    • Day 45

      Aveiro

      October 12, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Aveiro ist eine Stadt an der Westküste von Portugal und liegt an einer Lagune mit dem Namen Ria de Aveiro.
      Die Stadt ist bekannt für ihre Kanäle mit farbenfrohen Booten.

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