Póvoa de Varzim

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    • Day 3

      Day 2 - Aldeia Nova to Povoa de Varzim

      June 2 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

      The sunset last night was spectacular, the color shifting from the blues of day to the oranges and reds of rest. A lone swimmer made her way out to water and had a choreographed dance to the fading light.

      My moment of bliss was short-lived. When I arrived back at my albergue the American couple in the room next to mine still had their TV on. It had been playing for over eight hours. I don't think they were actually watching it because I could also hear their conversation (which is how I knew they were American). They appeared to have it on just for background noise. The problem was that the walls were so thin that I could hear it planely. Somehow they had found an American channel that played back to back reality TV shows - fix a restaurant, flip a house, find a lover. I was annoyed as I couldn't nap, read or write with the distraction. Instead I took a trip to a cafe, then to the beach, later to dinner, and finally the sunset, coming home each time to find the boob tube still making me annoyed.

      Last year I was in Spain for the Champions League final (soccer). I sat in a bar with local sports fanatics and it was a spectacle! Last night was this year's final. I hadn't found a bar this time but knew I could find it on the TV in my room. My team had been knocked out earlier in the competition so I wasn't nearly as interested as last year. I intended to put the second half of the game on and mute the commentary, but after arriving back to my room I opted instead to turn the commentary up. It was in German. I didn't turn it up loud. I didn't need to. The walls were that thin. Within 10 minutes the Spanish team scored a couple of goals with not much time remaining. I turned off the TV and there was blissful silence from the other room. I left the alburgue this morning before they woke up. I imagine they assume I must be a German pilgrim.


      The morning light was spectacular. The beaches were pristine and empty except for the waves and the sea birds.


      I've learned that there are four different kinds of boardwalks in portugal.
      Newer ones - with prefab boards that are manufactured and built uniformly, making them very nice to walk on.
      Older ones - made of wood, some worn, some holes, some with big spaces between boards.
      Broken ones - with tape across them and signs signaling for you to walk around (meaning in the sand)
      Sand covered ones - Which is exactly what it sounds like.

      Pretty early this morning I was walking on an old boardwalk when I noticed one of my polls sounded different. Sure enough, the rubber tip had been pulled off in one of the gaps between the boards. It was too late to try and recover the one I'd lost as it would have been impossible to find or reach. But like a good Boy Scout I came prepared. I have a set of extra rubber tips in my bag. The problem is I didn't want to stop and take my pack off and get to my "Be Prepared" bag that was at the bottom. Had I actually been a Boy Scout I would have easily acquired my Procrastination badge.

      I argued with myself that I could wait until I was ready for a break, but now my pole, without the wide rubber tip, was finding the gaps between the boards every other step. I decided I just wouldn't use the poles until my next break, but then I'd either have to carry them or stop to break them down and strap them to my pack. Finally I decided procrastination was a bummer for breakfast so I stopped to put on a new rubber tip.

      There is a life lesson here for me. I think I make a lot of things more work than what they need to be.


      I made it to my first cafe and ordered a coffee and a glazed croissant. It was only two Euros. At Starbucks it would have been 12 bucks.

      I sat outside the cafe where a local gent was having the same breakfast as me. He didn't speak English but pointed at my backpack and said, "Santiago?".

      I nodded my head in affirmative.

      After a pause he asked, "How many K's (kilometers)?

      I shrugged my shoulders and said, "I don't know." and then made a motion with my fingers, "I just walk that way."

      He smiled. So did I.

      I guess I should know the distance to Santiago but the only thing I really needed at that time was to know where the first open cafe would be. The next thing I'd want to know is where the next open cafe would be. Santiago is many, many cafes away and I'm not concerned about it.

      I thought about this more. If you had asked me before this trip if I wanted to know what tomorrow brings, I would have answered, "Of course." But as I continued walking I could see the city where I'd be staying tonight. I found myself dreading the distance as it looked like it was forever away. But when the trail took me around a curve where I could only see that current bay, beach, field, etc. I found myself more present in those steps and not worried about what was around the bend.

      This was another intriguing life lesson on the Camino today.


      Where the boardwalk ends with warning tape you have no choice but to head into the sand. It is slow, it takes effort, and it gets in your shoes. It also takes you places where the boardwalk doesn't lead, including an art gallery of things washed up by the ocean and repurposed by artists.


      Finally there is the section of boardwalk that was taken back over by the sand. I found no life value in that damn section at all.


      I met pilgrims from Austria, Belgium, France, Australia, Germany, Italy, and Portugal today.


      Tonight I ate dinner at Theatro - a building that was once a theater and has now been reimagined into a restaurant, wine bar, bookstore and art gallery.
      I arrived a few minutes before they opened hoping they might let me take some photos before they had their patrons. They gave me run of the place. It is beautiful and it was a unique and memorable experience. I won't describe the dinner as it would create some envy but I would go out of my way to travel to this city just to eat here again.

      I told Rueben, my waiter, about Alex and how I was honoring his life by eating places that he would have enjoyed, and dining on food that he would have loved to have learned to create. At the end of the meal I told him it had been a perfect evening.

      When I went to the counter to get a stamp for my Camino credential, the owner brought it out himself. He said that Rueben had shared my story about Alex with the staff and said that they all got chills. They felt honored that they were a part of this walking, savoring life memorial.


      Now I'm back on the beach with other light lovers who come to say "boa noite" (good night) to the sun.
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    • Day 5

      Tag 2

      May 3 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

      Nach einer Nacht auf dem Campingplatz und einen kleinen Frühstück ging es wieder auf die Piste. Wetter na ja, muss man durch. Heute Nacht schlafen wir in einer Herberge. Für Fritz etwas ganz neues. Mal schauen was die Schnarcher machen.Read more

    • Day 20

      Day One Potuguese Camino

      May 31, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      43,000 steps👍🇵🇹
      Day #ONE on the Portuguese Coastal Camino. Metro to Matosinhos then walk to Povoa Varzim…. 43,000 steps ….28km. 👍🤞❤️🤞❤️🇵🇹. Great board walk, and really well signposted. Went thru some great little fishing villages. Restaurants dot the coastline. There is a real effort to rehabilitate sand dunes and protect migratory seabirds.
      All went well til Greg, my walking buddy for the afternoon took a bit of a diversion trying to find the hotel, then I discovered I was staying elsewhere!!! So an extra few kilometres!
      Coastal walk and the beaches are gorgeous but the last 8km was very urban and you really had to look out for Camino directions.
      I went looking for dinner, spotted a nice restaurant and hit the jackpot. Food was free as they were celebrating first anniversary of the business. Best and biggest prawns I have ever eaten. Gorgeous sunset.
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    • Day 11

      Reisebericht-Montag Nr 3

      May 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Pause Nr 3 Bilder sprechen für sich. Gedanken hej jeij jeij .

      Aber alles gut Familie und Freundscjafzsbänder. Ich ordne, räum auf und bin mit meinen Tugendbausteinen beschäftigt.

      Und zwingen mich zu:

      Klaus ‼️‼️‼️‼️ Entschleunigung

      Mit LSF Stärke 50
      So ist die Bräunung gesünder und 10000x besser als Solarium 🤪

      Bis später

      Küsschen für alle restlichen Reisekaravanler für heute an euch von mir

      Mach jetzt in Portugal ne Siesta und 😴 ein wenig.

      Wer das letzte Foto im Sinn verstehen möchte, sollte bei Youtube folgendes eingegeben und dann das Lied und vor allem meine Melancholie durch zuhören des Textinhaltes verstehen:

      Tim Fischer- Verlassen

      Danke Tim und verstehe bitte, dass ich deinen anderen Song "Einsamkeit " mit aller Kraft versuche, diese aus meinem Leben zu verbannen.

      Soll ich IHN aufgeben? Soll ich IHN verlassen, weils besser wäre?Soll ich IHN verlassen weil ich sonst nie die Einsamkeit verliere? Soll ICH nicht schon längst begriffen haben, dass ER mich vor einem Jahr schon längst verlassen hat?

      Na toll...jetzt kommen wieder die Unsicherheiten,die Zweifel, die tausend unbeantworteten Fragen und wohl auch bald wieder die befreienden Tränen.

      Krass jetzt kommt hier gerade nach dem angehörten Tim Fischer verlassen als Zufalls-nächster-youtube-song

      Von Hildegard Knef - für mich solls rote Rosen regnen

      Hilfe Gott, doch Spuren im Sand von Gottfried Ephraim Lessing

      Hilfe camino- Was willst du mir sagen?

      Jetzt, ja jetzt sind sie da die befreienden Tränen

      Lieber Gott, lieber Camino, liebe Mutti, liebe allerbeste Freundin Elwira

      Ich liebe ihn und traue mich nicht, ihm es zu sagen, aus Angst vor Schmerz und Enttäuschung.

      Habe ich nicht gelernt

      Enttäuschung = aufwachen aus einer Täuschung, danke Gott, ich sehe die Dinge jetzt klarer, ich bin ENT-täuscht

      Enttäuschung bist du mein Lebensweg, der Weg zu ihm oder besser weg von ihm

      P.s. er hat mitteilungsverbot hier erhalten, denn ich habe Angst vor einer der grausamsten Tugend in mir

      Der Wahrheit


      An alle anderen. Bitte keine Ratschläge an mich

      Ich bin hier, um meinen Weg, meine Entscheidung selbst und meine Wahrheit selbst zu finden.

      Ich raste aus

      Nächster Youtube-Zufalls-song
      Nur nicht aus Liebe weinen

      Ich muss mich ablenken ich verstehe jetzt gar nichts mehr

      Leben was soll ich verstehen kämpfen für die Liebe oder aufgeben meinetwegen?

      Und weitere noch immer nicht geschlafen 6 Minuten später.

      Klaus der morgen hat es doch schon gesagt

      Und deswegen höre ich jetzt lieber wieder

      Wind- lass die Sonne in dein Herz ❤️

      Ich muss zu mir stehen zu meinen Gefühlen, zu meiner Überzeugung zu meiner Liebe

      Was für ein emotionaler Tag
      Und ich bin Klaus, der emotionale Klaus, endlich wieder ein Stück ich gefunden. 🥳🥳🥳🥳🤠

      Letzter Beitrag hier

      Nach weiteren 10 noch immer nicht geschlafenen Minuten. Angezogen bei song Wind hören, erkannt so wie manchmal auf Arbeit ist nicht die Lösung auszurasten, bringt doch für einen selbst nur negative Gefühle.

      Klaus schon vergessen

      Carpe diem

      Vorwärts, auf mit dir mit Blick nach vorne. Wie der Camino... geht immer nur vorwärts wer zurück läuft kommt am Ziel nicht an,verpasst das Leben.

      Klaus du bist was wert glaube an dich und deinen Lebensweg

      Die Antworten kommen, es ist noch nicht der richtige Zeitpunkt gekommen um sie zu erfahren
      Denn Klaus, du selbst bist noch auf einen Weg, hast selbst noch zu verstehen.

      Frage; hast du nicht selbst Anteil warum seit einem Jahr funkstille, maast es dir an hier durch Text zu funken als besser still zu sein.

      Wieviel Wahrheit verträgste denn selber? Kapiere es doch endlich, halte dich an die Regeln des Lebens

      Mist wieder alles falsch gemacht
      Und doch muss ich hier mich mitteilen denn brauche ich Zuflucht im Falle von Enttäuschung.

      Wird dann aber jemand noch da sein für dich ?


      Ich muss jetzt 40 km laufen, nicht um wegzulaufen, sondern die richtige Antwort in mir zu finden

      Ich verlasse mich jetzt auf den Zufallsmix,Denn dieser scheint heute meine beste und ehrlichste reisebgleitung zu sein
      Und wenn ich heavy metal hör, was ich wegen Aggressionsgefühlen nicht mag

      Hab ich nicht mal gelernt, über Wut lässt man dann doch am besten los
      Hauptsache man verletzt niemanden mit seiner Wut
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    • Day 16

      Beautiful coastline

      May 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Our second day walking was another beautiful day. It was also Helen's birthday. We had the wind with us all day which made it seem cooler than it was. We'll be applying sunscreen more diligently now. Walking on the boardwalks was nice until we came upon the areas where they were buried under the sand. So off the shoes went! The sand was warm and silky.Read more

    • Day 8

      May 25

      May 25 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Today we began the trek to Santiago. It was perfect walking weather and we set off excited and full of energy. The first half of the day was busy as we left the town of Porto with lots of traffic, tourists, cyclists and a few pilgrims dispersed throughout the crowds. The afternoon was much quieter and we enjoyed the stunning views of the ocean on our left all the way. We were all exhausted, when after walking
      20 km, we arrived at our accomodation. It was a comfortable albergue with a number of rooms and a common kitchen and bathrooms. Thankfully there was a small cafe nearby where we enjoyed a delicious tuna salad for dinner.
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    • Day 13

      Povoa de Varzim to Agucadoura

      September 24, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      I started along the water again today, and then along a maze of boardwalks.

      The path was somewhat better marked today. At one spot there were 4 arrows all at once. To make up for the lack in other areas, presumably.

      Along the beach were condos with lovely views and roll shutters to keep out any nasty weather, and a bit farther were older homes with walls that blocked all views and weather. Built in different times for different priorities.

      I also saw a few camper vans parked along the ocean. Just like Walmart at home😆. Some were surfers.

      I stopped for café at a beachside bar mid morning.
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    • Day 12

      Matosinhos to Angeiras

      September 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      I started the morning (once off the Metro) by crossing a large bridge, then meandered through town until I found the ocean. It’s not hard to find. And though the trail is not well marked, it is fairly easy to “keep the water on your left.”

      Yesterday’s tour came in handy. When I got to the big obelisk, I already knew the story, more or less. There weren’t any coffee shops open for quite a while, and I was making good time. When I got to a fishing village (lots of cats) I found a café and a ham and cheese bun. Luckily I had eaten my pastel de nata before leaving the hostel.
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    • Day 13

      Camino Portuguese Day 3

      September 24, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      One of my roommates was asleep by 8:00 last night, and gone by 6:30. The other two were out past midnight and did not stir while I got ready. I found a café for a nutritious breakfast, and was on my way.Read more

    • Day 12

      Vila do Conde to Povoa de Varzim

      September 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      After lunch it was difficult to find the marked route, which was more direct to the town where I would stay. So again I meandered over to the ocean and just kept the water on my left. This took longer than expected, so I think I did walk further than required. Oh well. It was still a lot easier than the day I walked to Finisterre.

      Today is my first upper bunk of the trip. When I was a kid I loved the upper bunk. Not so much now. After a rest and a beer (the German in the room had some to share), I headed out for dinner. I tried a local sausage entrée. Not my favourite but not terrible either.

      I could see the sunset as the restaurant is on the beach, but it was not spectacular tonight, so no photo.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Póvoa de Varzim, Povoa de Varzim

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