• Jared Smith
  • Minna Smith

Min and Bear's Honeymoon

Budapest, Vienna, and Prague with a quick layover in London on the way. Read more
  • Trip start
    March 6, 2020
  • Taking off!

    March 6, 2020 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    BAI Bs!!!

  • London layover

    March 7, 2020 in England ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Leaving the airport was fun but we are EXHAUSTED. Leaving the city a bit earlier than planned so we can rest up at the airport before flight 2!

  • Good morning, Hungary!

    March 8, 2020 in Hungary ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We slept in this morning (boy were we tired) and got a coffee before setting out. After getting our city cards for public transit and museums, we got some beef tartare and Hungarian goulash for lunch and then visited St Stephen's Basilica. We climbed to the top for panoramic views of the city. This church and this city are IMMACULATE.

    We then walked the chain bridge from the Pest to the Buda side and took a funicular ride up to Buda castle. We visited the national history museum built over the original castle built by King Béla in 1247 and expanded by King Sigismund (the only Holy Roman Emperor ever from Hungary). It was destroyed in 1686 in the Siege of Buda, but a new one was built by the Habsburg Queen Maria Theresa in thanks for Hungary supporting her in the war for Austrian succession.
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  • Este Budapesten

    March 8, 2020 in Hungary ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    After walking down the hillside from Buda Castle, we split some risotto and a BBQ pulled goose burger for dinner. Then we snagged some pics of Hungarian Parliament across the Danube and then took a shot at figuring out the Budapest transit system—the oldest electric metro system in continental Europe! Did you know that the communists built most of their Metro stations deep enough to serve as nuclear shelters during the cold war? These things go DEEP.

    We took the metro to Cafe Gerbaud—a 161-year old dessert cafe (older than California!) for some sweet treats. This cafe used to be the place to go for Austro-Hungarian socialites to dine during the Habsburg empire. Somehow, it survived two world wars, Nazi occupation, and the death-grip of communism. And they have a pretty good chocolate cake to boot!
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  • Betegségben és egészségben

    March 9, 2020 in Hungary ⋅ 🌙 43 °F

    Minna wasn't feeling too hot this morning, so after a small breakfast at Cafe Astoria (operating since 1914!), we tucked back into our Airbnb and slept.

    After getting some extra rest, we went out for some Hungarian Deli food. Jared got sausage, duck leg, and fried potato slices, and Minna got what was essentially a Hungarian chicken cordon bleu.

    Then we went for a sightseeing cruise. It was AMAZING. We sailed the Danube and saw sights from the Hungarian Parliament, to Buda Castle, to an Orthodox Church that was built in a cavern blasted open in the hillside.

    We had a brief stop at Margaret Island, named after Saint Margaret, who as a young girl convinced her father to build a convent on the island so that she could become a nun. Then we hopped back on the ship and got to see all of those sites from earlier again, but this time lit up at night!

    Next came the Budapest Eye, which—while not as big as its English counterpart—was pretty stunning. Then, a few quick stops at DM, Lidl, and Aldi (they had lots of Nivea but no Jumpys OR Splashys 🥺), and now we're tucked in for the night!
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  • Oroszok haza!

    March 10, 2020 in Hungary ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    WHAT. A. MORNING.

    We started the day with breakfast from the coffee shop next to our Airbnb, before walking around the Great Synagogue: where Hungarian Jews have met for centuries. It was here that political Zionism was founded, and this place that the Nazis used as a ghetto for Jews during the Holocaust. Some victims who could be identified are buried here today. Outside the synagogue sits a metal tree, its branches filled with "leaves" bearing the name of each lost Hungarian Jew.

    After the synagogue, we took a taxi to the city limits to see the remaining communist statues that were torn down in 1989. They include statues of Marx, Lenin, and various other nameless komrades. Also included are a giant set of boots; all that remains of a giant Stalin statue which was torn down in the Velvet Revolution of 1956. Not-so-fun fact: after the Soviets crushed the revolution (which began as a peaceful protest), they had killed over 200 demonstrators and would go on to execute another 500, and some 200,000 Hungarians (mostly students) fled to Austria for fear of reprisal.

    We then visited the Citadel atop Gellért Hill, which was installed by the Habsburgs after the failed Hungarian Revolution of 1848. For seventy years, cannons pointed from the fortress in the hills of Buda at the citizens living in the plains of Pest.

    While at the Citadel, Jared mistakenly spent too much money on a painting of the city from above. So, cashless and unable to spend more, we headed for lunch back at Cafe Gerbaud. This time we avoided the sweet treats and instead opted for a pork potato pancake and a coconut mushroom soup.
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  • Még mindig áll

    March 10, 2020 in Hungary ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    After lunch, we met up with Agnes, a local historian who gave us a tour of the city and discussed life under Communism. She was just a girl when the USSR collapsed, but she colored the history of Hungarian occupation with the stories of her parents and grandparents.

    We headed to Liberty Square, home of the American embassy and a statue of Ronald Reagan. Funny enough, it's also home to Budapest's only remaining statue to communism, which praises the Russian soldiers who seized the city from the Nazis (but fails to mention the atrocities they themselves committed).

    Next we walked to Parliament, where the murder of over 200 Hungarian students and workers took place during the Velvet Revolution. They had gathered to protest in solidarity with Poles who demanded more freedom and better working conditions, but the Soviets quickly squashed it with brutal force. In one of the pictures, you can see a wall littered with copper orbs, which each symbolizes a bullet fired into an unarmed protestor.

    We saw many other sites along our tour, including various plaques, propaganda, and statues that were destroyed by the communists only to be rebuilt by the resilient Hungarian people. After finishing, we walked along the river and visited the Shoes on the Danube memorial, which commemorates those who were executed on the riverside by the Hungarian Nazi Party.

    Later, we returned to the Citadel to see the city at dark (and, with some cash fresh out of an ATM to buy a few more things), and then returned to the Jewish Quarter for dinner at Mazel Tov—an Israeli-Hungarian fusion restaurant. We had duck breast, a spicy pastrami sandwich, and a pistachio mousse tart. If those sound good to you (which they were), fret not! We bought their cookbook to make the dishes at home.

    It was a very, VERY busy day, but we saw and learned some of the most amazing things. Ruled by the Ottomans, the Habsburgs, the Communists, the Nazis, and the Communists again; and under constant attack from the ever-flooding Danube river, the Hungarian people have a will to remain that is unparalleled, and awe-inspiring.
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  • Az utolsó napunk Budapesten

    March 11, 2020 in Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Our day started out with a trip to the famous Szechenyi Baths, which are the largest thermal baths in Europe. The hot water supplied by these baths comes from two thermal springs nearly a mile below the surface, and surfaces at 171° F before it's cooled down to approx 90° for relaxation and medicinal use.

    After our little spa trip, we visited Vajdahunyad Castle, which was built in 1896 to celebrate 1000 years since the Hungarian Conquest of the Carpathian basin (where Budapest is today). After that, we stopped by Heroes' Square, which was also built in 1896. It shows the 7 Magyar tribe chieftains who conquered the Carpathian basin, sitting on their horses beneath the Archangel Gabriel. Behind them sit various kings and important figures who defended, expanded, or rebuilt Hungary throughout its tumultuous history.

    We then made our way to the House of Terror, which chronicled life under both the Hungarian Nazi Party and the Communists. The building is the former meeting place of the Nazis, and was converted by the communists into the headquarters/torture center for their secret police. Now, it's been converted to remember the cruelty of the authoritarians, the braveness of the resistance, and the joy of being free from tyranny.

    We stopped for lunch and drinks at a local ruin pub, inhabiting buildings destroyed by war and neglect. We had lángos which are essentially fried pizza doughs with sour cream and shredded cheese on top (Y.U.M!). Then we visited Matthias Church (built in 1015) and the Fisherman's Bastion (built in 1844 atop the land used by the Fisherman's Guild to sell their goods during medieval times).

    Finally, we travelled to New York Cafe for dinner, where we had chicken, goulash, and Hungarian Coffee (coffee with Palinka, of course!).
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  • Bye bye, Budapest!

    March 12, 2020 in Hungary ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We made it on our bus and are Vienna bound!

    Before we headed to the bus depot, we stopped by the Great Market Hall, which was built at the turn of the 20th century to increase the food supply of Budapest and help the city grow.

    We had another Langos (seriously they're so good!). This one had cherries, strawberries, and Nutella on top instead of cheese and sour cream.

    Budapest was pretty fantastic. The sights were stunning, the history was enriching, and the people were far more friendly than stereotypes of Eastern Europeans imply.

    Our favorite activities were visiting the communist statues at Memento Park, relaxing in the warm water of the Szechenyi Baths, and floating down the Danube on our sightseeing cruise. We also really enjoyed the ruin bar and Cafe Gerbaud.

    All in all, expectations exceeded—Nächster Halt, Wien!
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  • Wenn das Leben dir Zitronen gibt

    March 12, 2020 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We arrived safe in Vienna!

    Then we found out almost all of the museums, including the Opera House, got closed down yesterday. And then we found out we can no longer get into the Czech Republic.

    So after trying to get a hold of Orbitz and learning it'd take 14 hours(!) for someone to get back to us, we bought new tickets to LAX for Monday. We figured we'd best have an exit plan before spending a full day getting a hold of them.

    For now, we're going to relax (there's a Jared-sized bathtub!) and enjoy the sights that we can still see. It's a bit of a bummer that everything is closed down, sure, but the bright side is that 1) the government is taking this seriously and working to limit the virus' spread, and 2) we have an excuse to come back! Also we get to see Cholula that much sooner!

    Tonight we took a trip to a local restaurant and had some goulash & schnitzel, paired with an Austrian beer and an Aperol spritz. Then we headed over to Hotel Sacher Wien for a Sachertorte and some strudel. Köstlich!

    We'll keep you posted as things do or don't change. We'll be sure to keep abreast of any developments and have the embassy on speed dial just in case.
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  • Hör auf, es zu genießen

    March 13, 2020 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    "Plenty of people miss their share of happiness, not because they never found it, but because they didn't stop to enjoy it." - William Feather

    We slept in today. To be honest, there was a little bit of an urge to do nothing but lay around and mourn the ruins of our honeymoon. But we got some treats from the patisserie downstairs, had some tea, and got moving.

    We spent our early afternoon walking around the city center, discovering museums and historical landmarks (that were closed), and enjoying each other's company. We stopped at the Palmenhaus for some lunch, walked around Hofburg palace, and found a spot in the grass to lay down and read.

    The rest of our afternoon was filled with more wandering, relaxing, and eating local Viennese food. Then we went to a concert. Sure, it was no Wagner at the Staatsoper, but watching a small group of performers playing the hits of Beethoven and Strauss was a wonderful evening.

    Budapest was amazing, to be sure. The sights and experiences were amazing. But we had so much to see and do, the focus was often on experiencing it all. Now, in a weird twisted sense, we're being forced to just stop and enjoy the happiness of being married to each other.

    So thank Coronavirus, I guess?
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  • Wir fuhren mit dem Bus

    March 14, 2020 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Today was a VERY slow day, as more and more of the city closed down.

    We slept in again (catching up on a collective decade of sleep deprivation is a decent use of this time, I guess!) and started our day around new.

    We stopped by Buffet Trzersniewski for some delicious finger sandwiches and juice and then walked around for a bit.

    After meandering through the streets, we decided to hop on a city tour bus, which took us around the town to see all of the historic buildings that we couldn't tour! Despite our inability to go inside of any of them, we learned some interesting history and got a better feel for the city outside of the center where we're staying.

    Then followed some more meandering, shopping, and eating. We stopped for dinner at McDonald's for a little taste of home (Austrian McDonald's is gourmet as heck btw), and returned to Cafe Sacher for dessert.

    We're now tucked in early, figuring out the logistics of transportation to the airport, exchanging currency, and how to enjoy our last full day in the world's most beautiful ghost town.

    Guten nacht!
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  • Bring mich nach Hause, Landstraßen

    March 15, 2020 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Guten abend!

    Our last day in Vienna was—you guessed it—a slow one. We slept in, and went out for a bite and a coffee at McDonald's before taking another city bus tour.

    This one stopped at Schönbrunn Palace, the Habsburgs' summer palace (which was only a few miles away from Hofburg, their winter palace). We walked through the palace gates, wandered the gardens, and had a drink at the hilltop overlooking the city of Vienna.

    Then we got back on the bus, rode to the Belvedere palace (lots of palaces in Vienna!), and walked through it's garden. After that, we got dinner at one of the few open restaurants, got some gelato, and headed back to the Airbnb.

    We're all packed up and ready to be home! We loved the sights and experiences we were able to enjoy, but we miss you all and are excited to be back.

    Tchuss!
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  • Headed home!

    March 16, 2020 in England ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    About to board our flight - LA, here we come!!! We have all the snacking essentials and are hoping this flight is just as empty as the last one from Vienna to London🤞🏼

    Please pray we don’t catch this thing on the last leg & that LAX is handling this screening better than some of the other major international airports 🙏🏼🙏🏼Read more

  • Oohhhhhh we’re halfway there

    March 18, 2020 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We made it through a long travel day and as we don’t have any of the symptoms of COVID-19, we got through screening at LAX pretty quickly with some instructions and a pamphlet of what to do should we feel sick. We’re starting our self-quarantine from the Mattis house while we wait for our flight back to Boise.

    We’re tired but happy to be back in the states healthy and only a few bucks poorer. We’re both taking working from (the Mattis) home a bit easy this week as we transition back to full-time WFH! Minna’s office in Boise is closed so thank goodness she brought her laptop with her before we left!

    Now to try to contact airlines, put some puzzles together, and try to figure out what the next best step is!
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  • Idahome!

    March 21, 2020 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    After about 20 different plans and the new shelter-in-place order in CA, we decided to rent a uhaul for the last of Minna’s stuff and head Idahome.

    We were able to straight shot it though Vegas, Ely, and Twin Falls before making it back to Meridian to meet our newest roomie! We loved our travels but are happy to be back - now just to unpack and get the entire house together.Read more

    Trip end
    March 16, 2020