Living in: Cardiff, United Kingdom Read more Cardiff, United Kingdom
  • Day 43

    Day 42 Maentwrog to Trawsfynydd

    July 10, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Monday : Up 07:00, away 09:15.

    Dry as I began striking camp and packing. Rain started as I struck tent. Walked the mile to Maentwrog, where I met my friend Dave from Barmouth Walking Festival, who was joining me for the day. Dave said I looked thinner, when I weigh myself at home I discovered I had lost 13 lbs / 6Kgs.

    Out of Maentwrog, our walk started straight uphill for a mile on a minor road, then off right for a short distance on a track before crossing wet fields for 3/4 mile to Trawsfynydd Dam. There followed 3 miles along west side of Llyn Trawsfynydd lake. It was raining all the while as we passed Cae Adda campsite where I had planned to camp. Dave had found the website for Cross Foxes pub in Trawsfynydd village advertised a bunk house. With the constant rain this seemed more sensible than camping.

    We paused for lunch at the Mountain rescue centre when rain stopped for a shot while.

    As we passed the Dam at the southern end of the lake there was an increase in vehicles, we assumed these were fishermen. At the junction with the main A470 we turned left / north towards Trawsfynydd village. This part of the road has a welcome pavement as traffic was passing at 60 mph.

    In the village stopped at Garage to say hello to the father of my former colleague Emyr, whom I had worked with at Kukd/Eurofoods.

    15:10 entered Cross Foxes Inn and was told opening was 17:00. Enquired if a room was available, there was, and in which case Bar was open for us - result! We ate when kitchen opened at 17:00. Dave left around 20:00 to drive home to Cheshire. It had been great to spend a day with him despite the poor weather,

    All good things come to an end and ths one has too. I need 4 good days' weather to hike across the Rhinog mountains to Barmouth. Rain and high winds forecast for remainder of the week so going to call it a day and travel home tomorrow. I was lucky too get 5 weeks of good weather and optimistic to expect it to last 2 months.

    9 miles from Maentwrog to Trawsfynydd completed at end of 42nd day of walking and 9th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 410
    Average speed : 1.7 mph
    Weather : Dry at first then rain for much of the day, blustery wind from mid afternoon
    Number of people passed : 0
    Objective tomorrow : Going home
    Read more

  • Day 42

    Day 41 day off in Maentwrog & Porthmadog

    July 9, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Sunday : Up 08:00, away 09:10.

    Slept later than I intended, presumably tired from lack of sleep yesterday. Skipped breakfast and started walk to Maentwrog for 10:00 Service at St.Twrog's. I was a little early as I passed Grapes Hotel, which was open, so popped in for a cup of Tea. Visiting Minister's Sermon included reference to Joseph, perhaps unwisely, telling his brothers his dream that he had of them bowing down to him and so incurring their ire and their plot to dispose of him. He reflected that similarly in a murder investigation, the Police first look to eliminate family members. I am sure we all know the story that it all worked out okay in the end as Joseph became Pharaoh's right hand man and was reconciled to his brothers.

    During the after Service Teas and Coffees I asked about buses to Porthmadog. Parishioner Doris was driving to Porthmadog so I had a lift.

    In Porthmadog used a laundrette. Probably for the first time since I was a child using one under my Mother's instruction.

    Then walked through Porthmadog High Street to the Ffestiniog railway station. I was hoping to walk around Porthmadog harbour and Martime museum but last train was in 20 minutes so I boarded for Bleanau Ffestiniog.

    Blaenau was somewhat sad, although council funds had clearly been spent to make it looks better on smart paving and public buildings.

    Rerurned on the train as far as Plas Halt, the closet to Maentwrog. I was puzzled why the train occasionally slowed until, in a curve in the line, I realised it was for sheep on the line!

    2.5 miles around Maentwrog, Porthmadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog completed at end of 41st day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 401
    Weather : sunshine and glorious most of the day. Heavy rain late afternoon for an hour
    Number of people passed : Hundreds
    Objective tomorrow : Cae Adda campsite, Trawsfynydd
    Read more

  • Day 41

    Day 40 Cnicht to Maentwrog

    July 8, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Saturday : Up 06:00, away 07:00.

    Wind strength was unbelievable during the night. Tent was continually flapping violently against my sleeping bag. I felt sure my Terra Nova Wild Country Zephyros 1 tent was going to shread at any moment. I kept awake much of the night both by being battered by the flapping tent and the anxiety of thinking I could be homeless in any moment!

    At 6 am, wind was still wild, but the tent had held and it had not rained, in fact the sun was shining. I skipped cooking porridge as stove was unlikely to work well. I had plenty of Pepperarmis, energy bars and a sandwich from Beddgelert grocer bought yesterday.

    As I walked down the gentle slope towards Llyn yr Adar wind was the same strength but didn't feel as bad walking with rucksack packed. Psychosomatic no doubt. Then a right turn down towards the disused Slate quarry. This mile looked straightforward but took a while as I referred to map frequency to try to stay on the Cambrian Way route. Met a German couple here who had wild camped beside Llyn Cwm-corsiog. I forgot to ask them how windy it was. I wondered if it was better sheltered than my pitch.

    Through the disused Slate Quarry it began gently raining. The slate incline was very wet, I placed each foot step carefully.

    After leaving the slate workings behind and beginning my ascent up Moelwyn Mawr I met WO2 (Warrent officer 2) Sargeant Major Steve. He had retired just a few months earlier in September 2022. He was carefully assessing his position on an OS Map using the contours and features. A skill he said he had lost as he ascend the ranks. Apparently this tends to be a role for more junior Soldiers. We met a few more times as I ascended (because he kept overtaking me) and chatted about lots of things military. He echoed what I had heard a few weeks before from a former Royal Marine on Offa's Dyke path, that UK territorial forces were being built up as UK is behind other countries in this regard.

    Having only met 4 people all morning, at the top of Moelwyn Mawr a party of 8 arrived soon after me. Steve was already there making a brew - of course! I was amazed how light his JetBoil stove was. Even including the Gas canister it was far lighter than my MSR Saucepan.

    Down from Moelwyn Mawr took a while needing care on tricky scrambles down. Once at Bwlch Stwlan descent was an easy, though boggy, zig-zag down to Llyn Stwlan Dam. The mile below Stwlan Dam through Camfa Derw was slow, picking through high Ferns. I am sure these were not here last June 2022?

    I passed the turn off to Duallt station by not paying attention. Although gentle, the ascent seemed to take forever because I was tiring.

    Once on the road, route was straightforward and once I had left Cambrian Way I put my thumb out and eventually got a lift the last few hundred yards to Llechrwd Riverside campsite.

    Teachers accompaning Duke of Edinburgh students pitched next to me. Maria had a Terra Nova Laser 1 tent. It was exactly the same design as mine, but made from lighter material that made it lighter. How I envied that saved 0.5 Kg! ... although not the extra £400 it cost.

    Had supper at the nearby Grapes Hotel in Maentwrog. No success in hitching this time sadly.

    9.5 miles from Cnicht to Llechrwd Riverside campsite completed at end of 40th day of walking and 8th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 398.5
    Average speed : 1.3 mph
    Weather : Extremely strong wind overnight and dry. Sunshine at first with very strong wind. Cloudly with spots of rain from 08:30. Cloud rolled in around 10:00 which l was in until mid afternoon. Sunny, reducing cloud and temperature increasing for remainder of the day.
    Number of people passed : 18
    Objective tomorrow : Day off
    Read more

  • Day 40

    Day 39 Pont Bethania to Cnicht

    July 7, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Friday : Up 07:00, away 09:00.

    Struck camp without breakfast so I could eat in Caffi Pont Bethania. Cambrian Way then continued alongside Llyn Dinas lake. Passed a couple of Duke of Edinburgh parties here. A short while later met my friend Derek from Barmouth Walking festival. Derek was in good time and, as usual, I was late! I topped up with groceries then we set off.

    Route started along spectacular Afon Glaslyn River. The riverside route involved traversing large rocks, handholds bolted onto the rock sides and steps bolted onto huge rocks.

    Then through woodland before breaking out to an open track approach towards Cnicht. Temperature was hot by now. Derek had recced a short cut near here yesterday which had proved wet and overgrown. A reason why worth following long distance paths, they seem to be better maintained.

    This path seemed interminably. We stopped for lunch at rocks suitable for sitting. At this point I reaslised I had left my walking stick. Derek returned from here after we had lunched. It had been great having his company and I felt the loss when he returned.

    I continued on ever steepening ascent passing a couple of desending parties on the way. One more party at the final rock slab. I correctly ascended this on the east side. Last year I descend down the 30 foot wrst side rock slab which took ages and was hazardous.

    Once atop Cnicht I carried on north a few hundred yards past 2 more lesser peaks. A short distance further on a 50 foot diameter pool looked attractive to camp near, had signal and was closer than Llyn yr Adar. There was little breeze as I pitched but it gradually increased afterwards. I then checked the forecast which predicted gusting to 49 knots! Oh well, committed now.

    Today's timings -
    09:00 left campsite,
    09:20 arrived Caffi Bethania for breakfast
    09:45 began walk on Llyn Dinas lakeside path,
    11:10 arrived Beddgelert, met Derek, bought groceries,
    11:30 left Beddgelert,
    15:30 Derek returned to Beddgelert,
    17:10 arrived bottom of Cnicht final ascent,
    17:35 reached Cnicht summit,

    10 miles from Pont Bethania to Cnicht completed at end of 39th day of walking and 7th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 389
    Average speed : 1.5 mph
    Weather sunshine and glorious. A hot day with an occasional breeze. Wind strong in the evening from 20:00.
    Number of people passed : 22
    Objective tomorrow : Moelwyn Mawr then Maentwrog.
    Read more

  • Day 39

    Day 38 Pen-y-pass Snowdon Pont Bethania

    July 6, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Thursday : Up 06:45, away 08:30.

    Caught 09:03 bus from Pont Bethania to Pen-y-pass. Bought a few provisions from Youth Hostel which was being manned by Kate whom I had met in YHA Conwy. She gets around.

    The Miners track and PYG path start together and rejoin high up the mountain. I decided to take the Miners track. Very gentle ascent at first, steps and scrambling towards the end.

    I managed to get a lady from Heath, Cardiff to photograph me at the top and I returned the favour.

    The Café was open at the top so Tea, sandwich and cake were purchased. Talked to a chap from Coventry and lady from Italy. Easy to tell she was from Italy by her smart dress - how do they do that?

    Desent was straightforward. Only passed 5 people.

    Arrived campsite in plenty of time to shower and change for 18:49 bus to Beddgelert. Decided to go straight to the Tronnoen Inn. The staff were odd but they were friendly, the furniture was comfortable and they were happy for me to charge my device. Got talking to a Richard who left a well paid job in Engineering that he loathed to hand draw maps that he loves http://www.firtreemaps.com

    Got a lift back to the campsite from fellow campers Alan from Ledbury and son Tony feom Cornwall.

    Today's timings -
    09:40 left Pen-y-pass,
    12:55 top of Sbowden,
    13:35 began descent,
    16:55 arrived Pont Bethania.

    10 miles from Pen-y-pass to Pont Bethania completed at end of 38th day of walking and 6th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 379
    Average speed : 1.5 mph
    Weather : Mostly overcast with sunny intervals. SW breeze for much of the day that was strong around the summit and on the South facing descent.
    Number of people passed : Dozens, but only 5 on the descent down South route.
    Objective tomorrow : Cnicht
    Read more

  • Day 38

    Day 37 YHA Idwal cottage to Pen y pass

    July 5, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Wednesday : Up 06:00, away 07:50.

    Last night's packing worked splendidly, allowing me to get away my earliest yet after breakfast. Walk began with gentle ascent over river bridge then across laid rocks to foot of waterfall on Nant Bochlwyd. Then steep up to Llyn Bochlwyd lake. I navigated too far south towards the lake. My excuse for poor navigation, the path is faint here!

    Onwards up to Bwlch Tryfan over rocky path, some of it laid. Last year there were goats on this section but not this year. Over the stile onto the Miners track which is over very loose scree and stoney surface so I walked it with considerable care. Reaching the top the route takes a hairpin right towards Glyder Fach. After 600 yards, a significant ridge of rocks required some careful scrambling o ascend over huge boulders.

    Once on the top route was straightforward passed Glyder Fach, Castell y Gwynt and Glyder Fawr. Mostly over rocky ground.

    Descent down from Glyder Fawr was challenging. The route was unclear, I ended up lowering myself down rock walls and laterally over very wet ground to get to Pen-y-pass.

    Today's timings -
    07:50 started walking,
    09:50 reached Bwlch Tryfan ladder stile,
    11:00 reached top of Miners track,
    12:10 reached Glyder Fach,
    13:00 reached Glyder Fawr,
    15:00 reached Pen-y-pass in good time for 15:35 bus to Pont Bethania

    I was well ahead of the 10 hours I took to cross the Glyders last year so was able to catch 3 hour earlier bus. Arrived National Trust campsite Hafod-y-Llan around 16:30 with plenty of time to pitch and shower before catching 18:49 bus from nearby Pont Bethania to Beddgelert for supper, Cider and device charging.

    Tried the Prince Llewelyn and Y Bistro yn yr Hebog for supper but both had all seats taken so ended in the Tronnoen Inn where I had supped last year and wanted to avoid! Got talking to an Australian-Canadian couple who were staying next door, they kindly drove me back to campsite when I said I was going to get a taxi. People are so kind. They live in Australia. The Canadian lady said she doesn't miss Canada, it is too cold!

    6 miles from Idwal cottage to Pen y pass completed at end of 37th day of walking and 5th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 369
    Average speed : 1.2 mph
    Weather sunshine and glorious. Another hot day with a welcome ENE breeze for much of the day.
    Number of people passed : 21
    Objective tomorrow : Over Snowdon from Pen-y-pass to Pont Bethania
    Read more

  • Day 37

    Day 36 Cwm Ysgolion Duon to Idwal

    July 4, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Tuesday : Up 08:00. away 10:45. Today is my continuation over the Carnedd mountains that I forshortened on Sunday because of extremely strong wind.

    After leaving the Hostel, walking along the A5 then up the foot path alongside Afon Lloer I carried on to the tarn at the bottom of the Cwm that is the source of the Afon Lloer. This was far wetter than my route down on Sunday when I had 'cut the corner' and walked further east. Lesson learned. I then retraced my route up the green hillside to Cefn Ysgolion Duon. Some wind at the top but nothing like as strong as on Sunday.

    Left/west turn here for a straightforward walk up to Carnedd Dafydd. Initially over grass, latterly small rocks. Quite an elaborate wind shelter here built with entrances in 3 directions on this, the second highest of the Carnedd peaks.

    Route down to Bwlch was rocky then grass before short ascent up Pen Yr Ole Wen. The whole of this walk was a circuit around a Cwm with the tarn at the bottom always in view.

    I had been dreading the descent from Pen Yr Ole Wen knowing how steep it was. I had asked YHA Idwal cottage warden Jerone for advice, having found ascending it in 2022 required climbing. The descent did prove challenging taking 1:40. One day I will return to establish which is the best route up and down.

    Once at the bottom I walked along the north side of Llyn Ogwen lake instead of the road. I discovered it is part of the Snowdonia slate trail. There were lots of ups and downs over rocks & wet ground and the final 100 yards were a particular challenge over precipitous rocks.

    Today's timings -
    11:15 reached east end of Llyn Ogwen,
    12:00 reached wall half way up Afon Lloer,
    13:45 reached Cefn Ysgolion Duon,
    14:15 reached summit Carnedd Dafydd,
    15:00 reached foot of Bwlch,
    15:10 reached summit Pen Yr Ole Wen,
    16:50 reached wall half way up Afon Lloer,
    18:30 returned to YHA Idwal cottage

    Chatting to warden Saskia after supper she mentioned a guest had cancelled their booking. This was for the single toom inthe Hostel (there is only one). So I managed to 'upgrade' my tent pitch to the single room. This allowed me to strike tent while it was dry and pack everything for an early tomorrow morning on what I expect to be a hard walk over Glyder Fach, Glyder Fawr and down to Pen y pass.

    9 miles from to completed at end of day 36th of walking and 4th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 363
    Average speed : 1.3 mph
    Weather sunshine for most of the day with 20 minutes of rain around 12:30.
    Number of people passed : 6
    Objective tomorrow : Over the Glyders to Pen y pass.
    Read more

  • Day 36

    Day 35 day off in Idwal and Bangor

    July 3, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Monday : Up 07:00, away 11:30. Lazy start to the day. After dressing in full wet weather clothes and packing everything else into rucksack, walked the 100 yards to the Youth Hostel for breakfast. Put Rucksack in drying room that had got wet yesterday when pitching tent. Drying rooms are such an excellent feature of Youth Hostels. They are often too hot to stay in for more than a few minutes and can dry clothes in less than an hour.

    After writing yesterday's blog I caught 11:25 bus to Bangor. It was full of Scouts from Republic of Ireland so I only had a seat for half the journey until surrendering it to a more senior lady. I learned that schools in RoI have 3 months summer holiday.

    Rain had stopped by the time we arrived in Bangor. Went first to the nearby Cathedral. Was delighted to discover there is a daily Service that would begin 20 minutes after my arrival.

    After the Sevice stopped in a Café for lunch then walked around Bangor. Saddening to find quite a few empty shop units. Caught the 14:25 return bus back to Idwal cottage. Buses were every 2 hours.

    Back at the hostel finished yesterday's blog, made supper, chatted to a few fellow hostelers and booked to stay a 3rd night (Tuesday). Weather forecast had improved considerably so I resolved to continue my attempt to walk the Cambrian Way with a short 'test walk' tomorrow from where I dropped off the route yesterday at Cefn Ysgolion Duon to Idwal cottage.

    1 mile around Bangor completed at end of 35th day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 354
    Weather : Rain overnight and all morning. Sunshine from midday until late afternoon. Intermittent rain or sunshine for the remainder of the day.
    Objective tomorrow : Cefn Ysgolion Duon to YHA Idwal cottage.
    Read more

  • Day 35

    Day 34 Dulyn Bothy to YHA Idwal

    July 2, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Sunday : Up 07:00, away 09:30. Good night's sleep in Bothy, despite having to share with 4 strangers. I was first up but David, who arrived last previous night, was first away. Retraced route from Bothy back to Bwlch y Gwryd where I left Cambrian Way yesterday. Only 1.25 miles but took 2:40 over the tussocky surface. It was worth paying this price of going off road for the knowledge that Bothy stood the wind where the tent might not have. Although, the 3 tents pitched a few hundred yards down the valley were all still up in the morning so maybe I underestimated my tent?

    The walk across the bwlch (saddle) was fast over large laid stones. It looked as though this area would be very wet in the early part of the year. Then a climb up to Foel-fras over a pleasant grass surface. For 50 yards around Foel-fras trig point were rocks of 1 - 3 feet diameter making the approach tricky, like walking on a beach. I had thought there was a shelter here but had misremembered from walking this way in 2022. It was in fact 2 peaks further south at Foel Grach.

    Descent from Foel-fras was speedy on grass of gentle descent. At the bottom the bwlch was again laid stones before the next ascent, again on grass to Carnedd Gwenllian. This peak was also rocky, although fewer and smaller in size so easy to walk across.

    Next peak was Foel Grach where I stopped in the shelter to lunch. Signs inside advised it as not to be used as a destination only in emergencies. The respite from the wind was most welcome. I was joined presently by 2 chaps who were walking the Wales 3000 (all the peaks in Wales above 3000 feet). They were surprised to find the shelter and puzzuled at its provision. The only other I have come across is on Cadair Idris.

    Back out in the wind, which seemed stronger than ever, after a short descent to the bwlch was a long walk up to Carnedd Llewelyn, the highest mountain in the Carnedd range at 3491ft/1064m.

    The forecast for next few days was wind even stronger, gusting up to 40 knots and thunder storms so I resolved to shelve Cambrian Way and travel home Tuesday. I suppose I was unreasonably optimistic that I would have 2 months of good weather. So with the decision to go home made and the incessant wind wearing me down, I resolved to leave the ridge at the first opportunity, which was after Bwlch Cyfryw-drum. The route down to the bwlch was over rock and gravel with a rocky peak at the bottom that the path passed to the east / leeward side. The shelter from the strong westerly wind was extremely welcome.

    A few hundred yards further, at 5pm, on escarpment Cefn Ysgolion Duon, I took a bearing left to aim to descend to Llyn Lloer (Lake Lloer). In the past I had seen people walk up this way from Llyn Lloer but there was no path marked on the map nor obvious on the ground. I was anxious there might be impassable rocks / cliff but it turned out to be a mostly grassy route with just an occasional rock to walk around. This veering to the left took me off the Cambrian Way avoiding an ascent up Carnedd Dafydd then Pen Yr Ole Wen and, what I was most eager to avoid, a very steep descent from Pen Yr Ole Wen.

    From Llyn Lloer I rejoined the Cambrian Way footpath alongside Afon Lloer stream down to the main A5 road. From here it was a mile walk alongside Llyn Ogwen lake to YHA Idwal cottage. I tried thumbing a lift but without success.

    Arriving just after 7pm I was greeted by Mark who showed me where to pitch after I had loaded the washing machine (no charge, just £1 in the charity collection). It began to rain heavily as I was pitching so I just put up the tent then retreated to the hostel. I finished 'furnishing' it later when the rain stopped.

    9 miles from Dylan Bothy to YHA Idwal completed at end of 34th day of walking and 3rd on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 353
    Average speed : 1.3 mph
    Weather : strong wind of yesterday continued and made temperature cold as a result. Intermittent sunshine for most of the day. Light rain at very end of the day.
    Number of people passed : 8
    Objective tomorrow : Day off
    Read more

  • Day 34

    Day 33 Rowen to Drum

    July 1, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Saturday : Up 08:30, away 10:45. Reached Cambrian Way at Mean Penddu rock 12:30 to resume walk south. Strong westerly wind hit me as soon as I crested the ridge. Surface was mostly grass, much of it worn to the soil and occasional small rocks. Hard work against the wind ascending first Tal-y-Fan, Foel Lwyd then very steep drop to Roman road at Bwlch y Ddeufaen followed by ascent to Drum. Foel-fras was to be my next and last objective of the day but wind was unbelievably strong, too much for tent pitching. Instead decided to descend to the east to Dulyn Bothy. In the lee of the ridge wind stopped within a few minutes as I descended. There was no route from the direction I was approaching so it was a hard 1.25 miles over rough ground that took 90 minutes.

    Arrived at the Bothy same time as a party of 3 friends. They decided to pitch their tents beside the lake that was a couple of hundred yards up hill, then came to the Bothy to cook supper. Another party of 3 pitched a couple of hundred yards downhill a short while later. Then a third party of 3 from Leeds arrived and joined me in the Bothy - so I didn't have it to myself in the end. About 10pm, a few minutes after retiring 1 more chap appeared in the Bothy for the night. He had been on the ridge but had found it very cold, so retreated to the warmth of the Bothy.

    9 miles from Rowen to Dulyn Bothy completed at end of 33rd day of walking and 2nd on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 344
    Average speed : 1.3 mph
    Weather : rain overnight and in the morning with strong wind. The wind continued all day and kept temperature sufficiently cool for me to wear jacket and overtrousers all day. Wind was strong enough to halt me and push me over at times.
    Number of people passed : 10
    Objective tomorrow : YHA Idwal
    Read more

Join us:

FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android