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Iceland 2018
  • RobCowell
febrero 2018

Iceland 2018

I return to Iceland once again but to concentrate on the amazing southern region and the peninsula to the west. Last time my friend Tony and I were plagued with rain and dull conditions so will we be lucky this time? Why not find out. Leer más
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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    2We both wore spikes on our boots whilst there
    A fairytale waterfall surrounded by icicles of all shapes, patterns and sizesStanding right next to the falling waterYou have to be quick to take these or you get soakedIcicles close to the fallsRob's camera covered in ice

    Skogafoss Waterfall on Ice

    13 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    Having finished with the stacks for the time being we decided, now the roads were reported as improved, to revisit Skogafoss as we guessed it would most likely be frozen and, after all, Tony did want to come at this time of year to photograph frozen waterfalls. So, having purchased as eaten two Mars Bars for strength and be able to work, rest and play*, we set off westwards to Skogafoss.

    This was an interesting drive. The road initially climbs fairly steeply out of Vik before winding between hills and mountains. From the start the roads were covered in snow and ice and in places only the roadside marker posts defined where the road was. Gusting wind also blew thick clouds of snow across the road so at times visibility was very poor. In other words, the driving conditions could only be described as 'tricky', as quoted by the Department of Understatement. We made it though though.

    When we arrived at Skogafoss conditions were much better and there it was, all frozen and surrounded by tourists, coaches, cars and photographers. It did look very pretty with so many icicles around it and after a while the buses left and there weren't so many people there. We spent a while there with our tripods but we're not sure we got very much for our efforts. We waited ages in the hope the sun would break through but it never did. Rob did brave it, especially for you, and went right up to the falling water to take some photos which you can see in this footprint. At times it was dry but then suddenly he got sprayed from the falls. This spray then froze to ice as you can see on his camera.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    This looks better than it actually was
    Looking the other way down the beach

    Vik Stacks Take 2

    13 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ -6 °C

    When we left Skogafoss the weather really was much better. Still no sign of the sun where we were but, annoyingly, it did look as if it might have been a sunny afternoon at Vik. We therefore decided to go back to the beach where we started and see if we could get a sunset photo of the stacks. Maybe our luck with the weather had been lost down a crevasse at Skaftafell because when we got back to Vik the clouds had moved in. Once again the phone seems to have made the best of it though we suspect that once we see our photos on the computer back home we'll end up with better than we think we've got right now.

    The next stop was the restaurant before returning to our guest house. Here we learned of a big storm arriving in the early hours and lasting through tomorrow morning. The roads will be closed so this changes what we do tomorrow, but then clearly we'll have tomorrow morning to decide what it is. The owner of our guest house has lived in Iceland for 15 years and hadn't seen this amount of snow in all that time.

    There is a lot of snow here.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Managed to wipe the snow off the window to get thisAt midday the wind is dropping and there's movement outside. Roads are still closed out of Vik

    All Roads Closed

    14 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    Yes, all roads are closed along the south coast of Iceland but you wouldn't want to drive in any case. Neither of us have heard winds like this before and the front of our guest house is coated with ice. Well, we assume it is because there's ice covering our windows so we can hardly see out. What we can see is ... not a lot. We can't tell if it's new snow being blown or existing snow being blasted across the landscape. It's probably both. It feels as though the whole house is shaking at times.

    At the moment it's the height if the storm and roads may not open until midday. Looks like a quiet morning ... not including the noise of a raging storm of course. Where has all that lovely sunshine gone?

    In case you're interested, the little boxes on the map show wind speeds in metres per second. At Vik that translates to 40mph gusting 80mph but to the west, where we drove yesterday, its gusting 110mph. We're sure the figures here must be higher than that because you have to hear the wind right now. Amazing.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Yet another view of those stacks

    Those Stacks Again

    14 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌙 -8 °C

    It was after 2pm before things settled down and the roads out of Vik didn't open until around 3pm, maybe later. At least we didn't have to be somewhere and we did feel for those who were stuck and had destinations to get to.

    We didn't really know what to do as most of the day was lost to the storm so we decided to stay local. When we left the guest house it was brightening up and much warmer but the roads were still showing as closed. As you can see from the photo, we headed back to the beach to see if we could improve on our photographs we'd already taken of the stacks. It was actually quite pleasant on the beach and the sun made an appearance for a while.

    Around 4pm we decided, as the roads had opened, to go to the other side of the headland to the beach where last time we were here we saw all the tourists and christened them 'penguins'.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    A beach full of penguins - the people, not those rocks
    Time for a coffee - view westward from the cafe

    Reynisfjara Beach

    14 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌙 -8 °C

    As you can see, the Penguins were there again. It really is a tourist hotspot and the car park was almost full including several coaches. The main attractions here are the sea stacks, basalt columns and the huge waves hitting the beach ... and they really are massive. As you can see from the first photo here, the sky looked ominous though to the south west there was a half-hearted attempt at sunset colours. We had a go at trying to capture images of the waves hitting the beach and the stacks but nothing spectacular hit our sensors. We were there about an hour and in that time the temperature dropped again and it got quite windy, so we gave up and went to the cafe for refreshment and a warm up. As we headed to the car to leave it started to sleet quite heavily.

    This evening the temperature is above freezing and the roads are quite slushy. It's quite windy too and there was more sleet as we returned to the guest house from the restaurant. Not the best day today, but then maybe we've been spoilt up to now.

    Tomorrow we're hoping we can get to photograph a canyon but it'll depend on whether of not we can get to it after all the snow that's fallen. We'll find out tomorrow but as we get ready to sleep there's a howling wind outside.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Leaving Vik towards the east
    Road conditions are still icy

    Good Weather Returns

    15 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We awoke this morning to what looked to be the potential for a really nice day and that's exactly what we needed because we planned to visit a canyon about an hour's drive east of Vik. As you can see, as we left the town there were bright blue skies but the road conditions were still icy in places ... very icy. But hey, we're experienced Icelandic drivers now, though hopefully those aren't the famous last words that so many know so well.

    On the way to the canyon we stopped off at a viewpoint in the Katla Geo Park. Katla is a volcano nearby which is still active, not at the moment but it will certainly be a major event when it next erupts. The lava fields in the area are huge.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Looking up the canyon
    View from near the car parkPrecarious camera locationPrecarious photographer positionCanyon viewCanyon view

    Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

    15 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌫 1 °C

    This was certainly an interesting place and the weather really made it, not to mention the quantity of snow in and around it. We are sure it's a great place to visit in the summer but we don't think you can walk up it because the river snakes through from side to side. To view it, then, there is a path running along the right-hand side with viewpoints in several places where we stopped to take our photographs. You can see Tony in one of them and if you look into the distance you can see part of the Katla lava field.

    The path is around 1.8km and we walked to the end where it terminates with a viewing platform for the canyon and also fine views across the snowfields to the mountains beyond. We really enjoyed our time there which must have been around 3 hours. It seems a long time to take a few snaps doesn't it, but that's not all it was about. The views, the warm sunshine and the quiet and relaxing time spent there. That's what made it for us.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018

    Stjórnarfoss Waterfall

    15 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌫 1 °C

    After leaving the canyon it was time for a coffee break so we found a filling station, ordered our drinks and sat down to work out where the waterfall actually was. In fact, it was 5 minutes from where we were so in no time we were at our next photographic location.

    This was indeed a frozen waterfall, a short walk from where we'd parked the Duster. That sounds silly doesn't it so let's say it was a short walk from where we'd parked the car. Much better.

     The river from the waterfall was almost frozen over and that made a picture in itself. The waterfall was completely covered in ice, so much so that it appeared the water came from inside the ice. The light was quite nice too, as it was later in the day, which gave a golden hue to the surrounding mountains. The phone picture you see here makes it look rather more atmospheric than it really was - the sky wasn't as toned as you see but it was very pleasant nonetheless.

    We returned to the car a short time before sunset was due and set off to return to Vik. When we'd left the canyon earlier we were surprised to see how much the ice on the roads had started to melt and become slush. Now, only a relatively short while later, the roads were covered in ice again. As we drove though, we were treated to the most amazing sunset and the best of the trip so far and the photo you see simply doesn't do it justice. The colours and tones were amazing, stunning even, but of course being on an Icelandic road meant we couldn't find anywhere to stop to photograph it before it was all over.

    What a fabulous day again. We've seen some beautiful sights and hope there's more to come when we move on tomorrow to our final location of the trip.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Car Park - Full

    The Waterfall that Wasn't

    16 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Today we had a reasonably long drive to get to Stykkishólmur in the north of the Snæfellsnes peninsula so the idea was to visit a few places of interest along the way. For the first stop we decided we'd revisit Seljalandsfoss waterfall to see what it looked like in winter ... that's the waterfall where there's a path you can walk which takes you behind the tumbling water. We had already been told the path was closed at the moment but we reckoned it would still be worth a visit as another tick for Tony's frozen waterfall list.

    We were totally amazed and somewhat shocked to find that when we arrived the place was heaving with tourists, coaches that had brought them and a completely full car park where, now, charges applied. This was very different to when we visited last. It was quite busy then but was nothing like what we discovered today.

    We decided we'd just take a picture from the parking area then leave as we couldn't see how we'd get a decent photograph there with so many people around. This was a little disappointing but we had been there before and we had got a fairly long drive ahead of us.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    All that from one grow bag!
    Bees and tomatoes75% of Iceland's tomatoes grown hereTomato soup for lunch

    Lunch in a Greenhouse

    16 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    Our lunch stop was at the Friðheimar geothermal greenhouses near Reykholt, vaguely on the Golden Circle tour. It's a huge greenhouse complex which is heated using geothermal energy and they produce 75% of all the tomatoes consumed in Iceland as well as 80% of the cucumbers. You can get the idea from the photos but we were amazed to see it appeared that a whole section of plants were grown from one grow bag. You can see it in the bottom right corner of the main photo. The greenhouses also have their own bees for pollination of the plants. I suppose it's obvious they would be needed but their presence was still a surprise.

    Greenhouses heated by geothermal power are quite common in Iceland, growing a huge variety of produce. Here endeth today's lesson.

    The best bit, however, was the tomato soup and bread. Excellent!    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Nowhere to park - site full

    Gulfoss Waterfall ... full!

    16 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Having gorged ourselves on tomato soup, we headed towards the Gulfoss waterfall which we knew would be the best entry in 'Tony's Ultimate Photographic Guide to the Frozen Waterfalls of Iceland.' The photo you see is all we saw because it was the same as we found earlier ... only twenty times worse. The main car park was more than full containing coaches, minibuses and cars all fighting for car park spaces that were long ago used up. Some time in the Viking era we think. There were people everywhere getting mixed up with the cars and the coaches and minibuses and snow and ice. We could find nowhere to park and even tried another smaller car park we thought people may not realise was there. But they did, because that too was rammed full with queues to get in or out and cars parked along the road making access even worse. The whole place was a nightmare so once again we left having seen even less than this morning. We never even saw an drip.

    Is this what is going to happen to all those beautiful locations in Iceland? Worrying. But then maybe even we are part of the problem.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Not many tourists here then!
    Steam vent at Geysir

    Geysir Under Pressure

    16 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    Our route from Gulfoss took us through Geysir. We'd also visited there on our last trip and once again there were more penguin tourists than you'd find water molecules in your average jet of sulphurous steam. We drove slowly through the site, trying not to mow down the people crossing the road and Rob grabbed a couple of shots from the side window of the car.

    Maybe February is just a busy time of the year. Who knows.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    You don't see roads like this in Wolverhampton
    We're getting used to this nowThat's a snow plough going out of shotNot as good a sunset as yesterday

    Winter Driving

    16 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ -2 °C

    The forecast for our day of travelling was snow showers but basically a nice day ... and that is exactly what we had. The showers were sometimes snow, sometimes sleet and sometimes what appeared to be plain old frozen rain. Visibility was quite bad at times too but when it was clear the views were lovely with the most subtle of colours like watercolour across the landscape. A hint of yellow, tints of white and at times a hint of purple or violet finely brushed over the snowfields. Towards the end of our journey we thought we may see another great sunset but this time it simply faded away.Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Chocolate cake for pudding

    Comfort Food

    16 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Oooooohh! That's Tony's description of the chocolate cake we both had to end our meal this evening. We have four nights left and we are once again in a hotel rather than B&B which is a nice way to finish. Don't get us wrong, all the places we've stayed have been great and in all cases we've been made to feel extremely welcome.

    So, having spoiled ourselves we have discussed what we'll be doing tomorrow and now it's time to finish for the day. What will tomorrow bring? .... we'll tell you tomorrow night.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018

    Sunrise to Start the Day

    17 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C

    This was the view while we had breakfast. It was quite cloudy when first looked out of the window so this was quite a surprise. Hopefully the weather will be kind to us as we're looking forward to getting some good shots today.Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Those are our shadows

    Kirkjufell in the Sunshine

    17 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ -5 °C

    First of all, compare the first and last photos of this footprint, because the last one is the very best if what we saw in 2016 when we visited last time. Notice the difference?

    Kirkjufell is also known as the witch's hat mountain because of its shape when seen from a particular angle. It's a magnet for photographers and tourists (Penguins remember) because of the nearby waterfall which is often included in photographs. Search on Google and you'll find a squillion photos of this mountain with and without ice and/or Northern Lights. So we must have our turn of course.

    On this visit, as you can see, the weather was clear with a deep blue sky and clear air. After spending time here we left only to discover a location with fantastic reflections of Kirkjufell but from the opposite side. We managed to find somewhere to park and spent some time here trying to get that magical shot. This was a really good location because there were two mountains reflected in the tidal waters. Look one way for Kirkjufell then in a moment there was another composition of another mountain ... name not looked-up.

    We got some great photos here.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018

    Frozen Landscape

    17 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ -6 °C

    The weather today was gorgeous. How can it be when last time it was dull, foggy and constant torrential rain? The bright blue skies and snow make the landscape unrecognisable.

    We decided to drive westwards along the north of the peninsula and simply enjoy the journey. We therefore didn't really stop for photography and drove until we thought we ought to turn around and head back. The drive back was spectacular ... the photos here were taken when we stopped at a viewpoint where opposite, the cliffside was coated with massive icicles. But that was nowhere near the best of it.Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018

    Arctic Colours at Twilight

    17 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C

    We did make one more stop to photograph the sunset. We managed to find a place to park where we could get a reflection in a lake ... or some sort of water as it was difficult to tell what it was. The second photo of this footprint was taken after the sunset so apologies you don't get to see it, though perhaps you will when we return. The first photo gives a hint of the way the landscape looks at this time of day when the weather has been as good as it was.

    It's really hard to describe what we saw on that journey back to our hotel. We travelled in the fading light of an Arctic day, through a snow coated landscape of spectacular mountains resting on cushions of white marsh-mellow. But it's the light that's impossible to describe. As the sun sets all the subtle tones of colour and light emerge and even when the sun has set a second show begins, with the most delicate shades of white, blue and purple. Unbelievably, the landscape brightens and the twilight offers new colours of salmon and pink mixed with greys and subtle blues. This is a world you can't imagine ... you have to be here. It will touch your emotions like never before.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    The best my phone could

    Northern Lights

    18 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C

    We weren't quite sure how good a chance there'd be to see the Aurora tonight. Rob has that App on his phone to predict the possibility of seeing it and it wasn't that optimistic. We did wonder if it would appear though, given the extremely clear skies and how cold it was ... the first indicators to look for.

    We'd had our meal and returned to our room and were reviewing the photos of the day, with Rob checking the App every now and then. Suddenly, the App showed really good figures for around midnight, really good, and we decided to get kitted up and go. Whilst putting on all the clothing layers, Rob lightheartedly looked through the curtains and, even in the town and through the window, there they were - the Northern Lights.

    We drove about 20 minutes west to a place we'd spotted earlier in the day looking out to sea but with mountains as a backdrop. The show had already begun of course, so we set up our cameras and spent at least two and a half hours experimenting to get the best photographs we could. However, this was not any ordinary Northern Lights event, this was a Marks & Spencer's Northern Lights event. The Aurora spanned the entire sky with ever changing patterns of green and white, punctuated with tints of red and even orange. It was so bright too and at times cast shadows in an eerie green light. It was truly spectacular and a bigger event than we'd seen at Jokulsarlon. Truly amazing!

    Eventually the show faded and we left. Yet again on this trip we have been blessed with an amazing day.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    1Only three if these in Iceland

    Black Church

    18 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌬 0 °C

    Compared to yesterday the weather was not so good and the day not so eventful. We decided to go to the south of the Peninsula to find the black church at Buðir. It was quite crowded here so it was tricky to get a photo with no Penguins, though it doesn't look that way does it. Just after the photo was taken, loads of tourists arrived and they were everywhere. You just have to be patient ... they've come to discover the church just like we have and they want their photos too. It's just a little frustrating to have to wait while a family or small group take loads of photos of themselves including every variant of subjects in a variety of poses.

    Tony wasn't so sure about this location but felt it was worthwhile having done it. It kind've grew on him. We also met a couple of people who we chatted to, a photographer from Morocco (bet he was cold!) and an English guy married to a French lady who does photographic tours for French tourists. It was really interesting to talk to them.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    An f-stop of photographersLeft or right?Difficult driving conditions again

    Arches and Pillars

    18 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌬 -1 °C

    Having travelled to the south of the Peninsula we had decided we'd travel clockwise following the road around the end and back to our hotel. This meant we'd do part of the route we'd covered yesterday but it also meant we'd be at Kirkjufell around sunset, if there was one. There wasn't.

    We stopped at a few sites on the way to see an arch for example, which also included an opportunity to spot photographers on location. In this we were extremely lucky and were able to spot lenses and tripods of various sizes as well as strange hats and footwear. This was, of course, marginally more interesting than the sea stacks we saw, especially as it was far too cold to be hanging around a bunch of old rocks being splashed with icy water. Or was that a bunch of old codgers splashed with snow.

    One of our stops was to see some upright remnants of a volcano. It was here that, for some odd reason, the weather completely changed and a fierce and biting cold wind got up which made photography here quite a challenge. This wind was relentless and whipped up the snow as we continued our journey, making driving difficult at times.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    I know the horizon isn't straight!
    A pile of Dusters

    That Mountain Again

    18 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌬 0 °C

    When we arrived we were entering the twilight zone as the sunset had finished. What we mean by this is the sun was below the horizon because it was far too cloudy for a sunset.

    The tide was in so there was an opportunity for a reflection if the water was calm and the grey skies offered a great contrast against the snow covered mountain. We found a suitable parking spot and headed off with tripods and cameras but without the strange hats and footwear. Are we old codgers on a photography outing? We hope we're not!

    Rob thinks he's got some great photos here but Tony's not so sure so we'll all have to wait to find out how it went. When we went back to the car more people had arrived to catch the very last of the light and you can see just how popular Dacia Duster 4x4 cars are here. There are millions of them!    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Not so bad at breakfast
    Where's Tony!3Rob watches from the carIn this photo it looks okay doesn't itIs that water blowing uphill? We think it is!The car was shaking at this point

    High Winds and Rain

    19 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ 🌬 4 °C

    Perhaps you can tell it must have been a different kind of day if you've spotted the blog being updated before dinner instead of afterwards. All looks good at breakfast time with a bright dawn following a night of torrential rain which has amazingly washed a lot of the snow away, leaving the roads much less icy and bare areas of ground. Not as pretty as it has been we thought, but still it's an amazing landscape to be in.

    The forecast was for it to be cloudy with some wind but it turned out to be very strong winds indeed and as we left the town into the wilderness the car was being buffeted around as we drove through the lava fields. We stopped at one point so Tony could take a photograph of a coastal inlet and he braved the gale force wind while Rob stayed wrapped up warm in the Duster. We stopped again later and did the same and Rob stayed warm while the mad photographer forced open the door and crouched to get his shot. We then stopped for coffee and watched the cars in the car park jitter and roll as the wind howled around them.

    Having consumed our coffees and cakes we set off once more and decided, in a mad moment, we'd stop again at Kirkjufell because the overnight rain had melted the ice around the waterfall and we thought it'd be good to get (yet) another shot. This was just plain silly.

    We suited up, sorted our gear, fitted our spikes to our boots and headed off towards the waterfall. It was an endurance to even walk in that wind let alone stay upright. We made it to the location to the left of the falls, as you see it, having been jet washed by the spray on the way and even more so on the way back down. We got back to the car wet and dishevelled and sat and watched others as they attempted what we had done. We are all mad as hatters.

    So we returned to the hotel and in a while we'll go to dinner. We haven't achieved much today but there's always tomorrow on our drive to the airport. Hopefully we'll fare better than today.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018
    Our own blue lagoon
    Not a bad place to parkMore snowy roads on the wayTypical view as we travel southwards

    Travelling to the Airport

    20 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C

    So this is our last day.

    The view at breakfast looked cold and when we went to get the shared suitcase from the car to pack our gear into it, we discovered it really was. There was a biting chill in the wind so we hurried inside and began collecting things together ready to start the journey to the airport.

    As you can see from the second two photos, it was an average wintertime drive as we headed for the south coast ... we'd decided to go to the airport via a drive along the southern shore of the peninsula towards Keflavik, passing through a national park on the way. That drive took us on a small road across the mountains which were.extremely icy in places. At one point our trusty Duster lost all traction going around a bend and simply danced on ice. No problem though and we carried on, passing a ski resort we didn't know existed with what seemed to be a couple of lifts and not a lot else, then eventually giving up and turning around. The road conditions were poor and after the ski resort the road was not maintained in winter. We had a plane to catch and felt it too risky to go on.

    We did find a place to park for a while for our final session with our cameras. For a while the clouds parted in an area where, as the snow was thawing, pools of bright blue water had formed. We were the only people around and really enjoyed the time we had there.    Leer más

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  • RobCowellViajeroIceland 2018

    Final Views of Iceland

    20 de febrero de 2018, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    The drive from that little 'blue lagoon' to the airport was uneventful. The journey along the southern coast was not all that inspiring, though one section was through a geo park where there were the remnants of volcanic eruptions, lava fields and classic-shaped volcanic cones all dusted in icing-sugar. Rob thought this was brilliant and took a few photos from the car as the landscape slid by. Then we were at the airport, right on time.

    The Iceland 2018 adventure had come to an end.    Leer más

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    Fin del viaje
    20 de febrero de 2018