Rwanda
Gasabo District

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    • Day 33

      Working from Impact Hub Kigali

      February 27, 2023 in Rwanda

      There is no WWF office in Rwanda, but a very active Impact Hub community. This morning the plan was to go to Impact Hub, Anne would give a presentation, and I would use the time to find a new home for the next week or so. Well, it turned out to be near impossible to find a cab for the 7min ride to IH. Whenever I ordered a taxi, the driver would immediately call me to reconfirm my location. A bit annoying in times of GPS, but easy to explain.

      But then they would just not show up! It was extremely frustrating. We ended up calling four different taxis across multiple platforms and even more attempts. Only after around 25min the second taxi we had called showed up, looong after I had already canceled the ride with him. He must've remembered the address, gone to run an errand, and then check up on us 20min later... Or something like that.

      Anyways, we finally had a taxi, and made it to IH a bit too late, but all was well. While Anne was working her magic, I worked mine, and after I finally heard back from our desired Airbnb's host (she's away on vacation, unable to host us this week, but would love to host us in Kigali *another time* - two magic words that would've been helpful to write in the first message she sent us), I found another incredible looking place within our budget not too far away, which was then immediately confirmed.

      When we got there in the evening after a day of work, it turned out that the room we rented was located *inside* of a super cozy looking coffee shop, through a door leading to the back area. There was a secret garden in the back, good for doing yoga or other exercise, unlimited fiber optic internet, and a good kitchen on site, with fresh breakfast included in the room rental. It was pretty cool 😎 It was owned and operated by a female entrepreneur that also operated a travel agency from within the premises.

      The coffee shop was super chill, and only closed from 10pm to 9am, so plenty of quiet time for restful sleep outside of opening hours.
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    • Day 45

      Kigali

      October 30, 2019 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Today we arrived into Rwanda, after a fairly uneventful overnight bus ride. At the border, the customs guards searched everyone's luggage for plastic bags, which are banned in Rwanda.

      Unfortunately, Katie isn't feeling great, so we book into an empty dorm room at Via Via so she can recuperate. While she's napping, Chris befriends the owners new dog, Boss, which they had just taken in from the street. Boss quickly becomes attached to Chris and wants constant pets (which we happily oblige to give as he's so cute). While Boss is being fed, Chris sneaks away and heads out into the city, and is blown away.

      For starters, Kigali is built on a series of hills, which means that whichever way you go, the views are great. It's also spotlessly clean- cleaner than anywhere I've ever seen. We would later find out that the entire country cleans the streets in shifts, each person allocated a different day. No-one, not even the President, is excluded. It's a great way to increase civic-participation and keep the streets clean. It does, however, mean that whenever we walk down the street with a can of drink, everyone casts a suspicious glance at it, probably thinking "they'd better recycle that!".

      There is no hustle, no bustle, and you can walk the streets at night and be completely safe- there's barely any crime. It's liberating to be able to just walk the peaceful streets.

      Once Katie is better, we're joined by our friends Martyn and Laura, who are travelling with us for the next month. We spend the next couple of days sorting out our plan and walking around Kigali. We participate in a walking tour led by Nyamirambo Women's Center and learn about the history of the neighbourhood and the centre, visit some local shops, and have an amazing homemade lunch. Afterwards we drink the best coffee we've ever had at Question Coffee (which, I'm sure he won't mind me saying, is a little lost on Martyn), and have Rwandan craft beer at Pilli-Pilli, watching the sun go down over the picturesque city.

      We also head to the Genocide Memorial, which is a must for any visitor to the city. It's eye-opening. We knew a little about the genocide beforehand, but had no idea about the extent to which it was caused by colonialism. In fact, the museum argues that the terms Hutu and Tutsi were designed by the Belgian colonial authorities. Another section shows how the world was warned about what was going to happen, but turned a blind eye, allowing the atrocities to happen. The final part of the museum is devoted to the children who died, and each display shows a child's picture, their favourite toy, their best friend, and how they were killed. It's horrific, but it's vital to learn about Rwanda's very recent past, and how it has come to terms with it.
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    • Day 13

      Journey from Kigali to Kayonza

      December 7, 2019 in Rwanda ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

      We had a later start to our journey today at 2pm, so it was lovely to have a restful and relaxing morning at the hostel catching up with social media and the highlights of the Liverpool football games I'd missed. The times for rest and recuperation have been few and far between on this trip, so it was very welcome to have a morning's break. A big, rumbling thunderstorm rolled around Kigali as we said our sad farewells to four members of our trip, Linda, her daughter Heather, and 'English' Sam. The other Sam from Dubai was also leaving the trip today but said his goodbyes last night as he was off to a pottery course today. On the truck we mused about the very unusual amount of rain we have been getting on this trip so far which makes the camping far more challenging for our morale. It will be nice to be journeying towards the summer season when we head down to the southern hemisphere in Namibia and South Africa - although we may have the excessive heat to complain about then! We drove through more lush green countryside with many banana plants which seemed to be the staple crop of this region. We arrived at our next stop, the Urugo Women's Opportunity Center near Kayonza. This women's centre has been set up to give local women the opportunity to develop their talents and to make some income. There was a roadside cafe and two craft shops with lovely handmade produce such as woven baskets, paintings formed out of dried banana leaves, small animal sculptures, bracelets, necklaces, and many other craft pieces all fashioned by local women. They also had camping and accommodation as another source of revenue. None of us fancied putting up our wet tents in the rain so we all upgraded to dorm rooms and safari tents. I booked a large safari tent which was the very definition of the term 'glamping' although the cold en suite shower didn't feel quite so luxurious. A women's choir sang a beautiful and evocative African melody on the site as part of their choir practice, some of which I managed to record on my phone. We had some dinner and got an early night for an early start at 6am tomorrow and a very long drive across the Tanzanian border.Read more

    • Day 17

      A Sunday at the pool in Kigali

      July 16, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Our last day in Rwanda, before our flight to Amman tonight. Qatar Airlines have cancelled all their flights to Kigali, and at the same time cancelled our onward flight to Amman - fortunately our travel agent was onto it quickly and rebooked us a Kenyan Airways flight to Nairobi, then Qatar Airways to Doha, and a new flight to Amman. The net result is that we don't have a 12 hour stopover in Doha and we get to Amman 4 hours earlier, so it's turned out ok.

      Late breakfast - massive smorgasbord of cereal, fruit, hot and cold meats, freshly squeezed juices (bush tomato was the favourite), pastries, cheeses and our favourite new term, active cooking!

      Aloys was available today to take people to the airport, shopping, to museums, church services and caching! A few went to the tail end a local church service (the full service was from 7am - 11am), while Kerry and Ruth visited the Natural History Museum and we went along to attempt the cache nearby.

      The museum staff first told us the cache was inside the museum grounds and we would have to pay $10 USD each to access it. The cache notes indicate it was outside the museum, so we declined her offer and undertook our own search. We found the spot indicated in the spoiler photo, but the cache was gone. The security guard told Aloys she knew the location, but she took us to the previous coordinates, so we went back to the correct spot and found an empty screw top container in the grass that looked like it could have been the cache container. We were carrying a spare log, so we put it in the container and found a more secure hiding spot very nearby.

      We returned to the hotel briefly before heading out again with Kerry and Ruth to the Genocide Memorial - Ruth to check out the souvenir shop, while we took Kerry in search of the cache we missed 2 weeks ago. We had it in hand very quickly this time, while 2 armed guards looked on quizzically - funny how on second look you wonder how you missed it the first time! We can now claim to have competed every cache in one country - I'm sure that won't happen again!

      Back to the hotel for packing, and the atmosphere has hotted up, with a live band playing near the outside bar. Sunday afternoon around this pool was the place to be seen pre-1994 - local families, expats, politicians, military and business people all mingled together and much of the capital's business was done here over a drink.
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    • Day 10

      Tagesausflug nach Ruanda

      August 5, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      Wenn man schon mal in der Nähe ist... 2-3 h nach Kigali, die Hauptstadt Ruandas, gefahren und 1,5 Stunden am Zoll Schlange gestanden, um das Genocide Memorial Museum und das Belgium Commander Memorial anzuschauen und in einem Hotel Mittag zu essen. Da danach alle zurück wollten, damit es nicht zu spät wurde, fuhren wir nach dem Mittag um ca 15 Uhr wieder zurück. Der Rückweg dauerte zum Glück nur noch 2,5 Stunden, da es am Zoll schneller ging. Hat sich trotzdem gelohnt und mir ein ganz anderes Bild gezeigt, das ich von Ruanda hatte. (Siehe Fotos)Read more

    • Day 28

      Genocide Museum

      November 6, 2023 in Rwanda

      Although very depressing, the genocide museum, which occupied most of the day, was one of the most shocking, interesting, depressing, reflective, and horrifying experiences in my life. Their capacity to paint an insane picture of the reality of life in Rwanda during the genocide was insane. The graphic photos, videos, commentaries, interviews, and much more meant that you could barely speak as you left. Of course, as is so common with dark parts of history, this all started with colonialism. In which the Belgians separated the people of Rwanda into Tutsi and Hutu tribes. Although these groups existed before colonial rule, the rigidification that the Belgians implemented meant that distinction between the two groups became increasingly easier, even adopting identification cards. Something that would be a horrible tool for catching and killing Tutsis during the genocide many years later. To summarise a somewhat intricate and long period of time, the Hutus were left in charge by the Belgians when the country gained independence. This led to widespread discrimination of the Tutsi people. A civil war between exiled Tutsi and the national armed force worsened tensions between the groups and an increase in anti-Tutsi propaganda. When the Rwandan presidents plane was shot down while landing in Kigali in 1994, the genocide started. Almost immediately, road blocks were set up to stop and kill Tutsis. Men, women, and children would be bludgeoned or machetesed to death while trying to escape the carnage. Neighbours and friends would turn on their Tutsi counterparts and ransack houses, killing anyone inside. Priests would allowed the demolishen and burning of churches, knowing that Tutsis had sought refuge there from the violence - thinking they would not murder in a religious buildings. Nearly a million Tutsi and moderate Hutus were killed in less than 100 days. Hutus who did not wish to participate in the violence or had married or had sexual relations with a Tutsi, would be viciously tortured and murdered. The violence was sudden and widespread. So suddenly, in fact, that 800,000 people had been killed in the first 6 weeks, equating to about 20,000 people per day. The violence only ended when the national army regained control of the country and pushed the extremists out. Many went to the DRC, and this has resulted in instability to this day. Random and sporadic terrorist attacks on Rwandans and tourists from the DRC are somewhat common and may be the reason for the Queen Elizabeth National Park terrorist attack. Those who remained in the country were prosecuted in the Gacaca courts. Though by the end of the genocides there were only about 5 judges and 20 lawyers remaining in the country. 1 million deaths and 2 million migrants left the stability of the country in tatters. As such, they relied on confessions, allowing perpetrators to confess to crimes, determine the location of bodies to give proper burials, and in return received half sentences. Many came forward to confess to crimes, and those who didn't would have the full brunt of the legal system to face and obtain full sentences. The new regime preached forgiveness and togetherness to move past the atrocities, and many followed suit to allow the country to rediscover their own national identity, culture, and stability. No photos could be taken from inside the museum, so I only have a few photos of the outside of the museum. We spent nearly 4 hours here but you could spend more.

      Eventually, we arrived at our accommodation for the night and began to get ready to head to a restaurant. For the first time on the trip, we had a meal paid for by the tour (or at least partly). Caroline joined us for dinner, and we had a few drinks and introduced her to everyone. It was nice to have a meal cooked for us where we didn't have to pay
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    • Day 7

      It's all about the cache!

      July 6, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      We had a later start today for the trip to Nyungwe Forest, with breakfast scheduled for 7.30am... but I've had my eye on a nearby cache, so this morning was our opportunity to attempt it. It is only 500m from our hotel, as the crow flies, but considerably longer following roads, so I discussed the best route with our tour leader, Aloys. He thought it was too far to walk and suggested taking a moto taxi, but Oliver wasn't keen on sitting on the back of a motorbike in Kigali's traffic!

      He offered to go as a detour on the way out of town, but I didn't want to delay the whole group, so he offered to meet us at 7am and take us alone, then come back for the group after breakfast. So we met him at 7am and drove to the cache site, at the entrance of a hotel. Amazingly, the road off the main road was rougher than any we encountered in Akagera! The streets were teeming with children on the way to school (7.30am start) and the hotel staff were interested to see what we were doing. They knew there was an "item" in the area, and that previous finders had looked on the gates, but didn't know exactly where it was. After a few minutes searching, we had it in hand, much to the delight of the hotel chef, gardener and security guards!

      We got back to the hotel in time to squeeze in some breakfast, and still made the 8.30am departure time with ease.
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    • Day 175

      Things that happen on the way

      March 9 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      I have considered taking the bus for a while, because the heat, monotonous landscapes, and mud was getting to me. But I didn't want to give up on either Tanzania or the trip. And I wanted to experience these landscapes the best way I know how to: by cycling.

      Well I had to cross a few rivers (because I chose a recommended "shortcut"), maneuver through a mudpool (without again being stuck), but everything went well. Then actually the landcape gradually became greener, and after about 100 kilometers I stumbled on huge boulders in nature; I have no idea where they came from but it was an amazing sight! (Sorry for the bad pictures.) And then I almost got lost in a very Dutch-seeming landscape —except it was ricefields instead of polders—but as in a miracle a sign showed up, saying " jana-isaka road": Exactly where I was headed. And the road was a decent, newly built, gravel path, not flooded anywhere; a miracle or gift from above, saying I should continue.

      After that I went fasttracking my way to Kigali, only paved roads and following the quick route, to get there as soon as possible. I haven't done this much cycling during the entire trip, but I loved pushing it to finish the 1100 or so km in around a week. I also got some help from locals giving me momentary pulls; even an old man who was cycling faster than all the kids did.

      So I am now in Kigali, and will probably end this blog here. It's been fun. Although I ended it with a flu in Kigali and just spent a few days in bed.

      I guess I will end this with life lessons I have learned:

      Bring a towel
      Bring a toothbrush for cleaning your chain
      Bring ducttape (it has saved my trip on numerous occasions: and the cargo of others)
      Bring zipties
      Keep your chain clean
      Chamois cream rocks
      Get a better saddle
      I have not gotten enough of cycling yet
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    • Day 34

      Private taxis and traveling by motorbike

      February 28, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      The previous night we were given the number of a reliable taxi driver to drive us to our accommodation. After all the horror experiences we made in the previous 24h, this worked super smooth. We called him, he said it would take him 10min to come, after 8min he was there, and found our place immediately via the most direct route. It was a breeze!

      But, without luggage, there are other opportunities to be had in Kigali. The most common mode of transportation is by far the motorbike. We grabbed a few motos in the morning and scooted over to IH again to be productive. I picked up lunch from a place nearby, which we ate between a few meetings that we had.

      In the evening, we followed a food recommendation from one of Anne's friends, and ended up walking to a rather fancy (and pricey) place. But the food arrived relatively quickly (an abnormality in Rwanda) and tasted good though out servers were a bit all over the place - not in a good way.

      Speaking of walking. In the places we had visited in previous weeks, the general recommendation was always to not move by foot after sunset. This was different in Rwanda, where we had been assured by many that it was totally safe to move around by foot also after sunset. A major reason for that is also that Rwanda has installed proper lights throughout the entire country, so it's a difficult task to find a "shady" area to get in trouble in.
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    • Day 24

      Rwanda - Too Short, Wanting To Return

      November 6, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      It was time to visit the third country on this trip and our travel plan led us to Rwanda - the country of a thousand hills. Similar to Kisoro, the drive to the Rwandan border and through its countless hills was spectacular, but what was most striking, was how clean the country is. No trash, no litter on the streets or pavements. Rwanda has banned the use of plastic bags, so that is a big plus.

      After a few days of relaxing in Red Rocks and spending the afternoon lounging at a nearby lodge or having a few drinks in the pub, it was time to drive to Kigali, the capital. There, we visted, what i wanted to see/understand since I saw the movie 'Hotel Rwanda' - the Kigali Genocide Memorial/Museum. It provided an insightful, shocking and devastating account of the genocide that took place in Rwanda in 1994.

      The genocide was triggered by the downing of a plane with the Hutu leader on it and was the shocking result of decades of propaganda and surpression of the Tutsi minority.

      Within the span of 100 days, the Hutu tribe tortured and murdered over 1 million people of the Tutsi minority in the most brutal ways possible - machetes, hammers, sticks, brute force, etc. Over 2 million people fled the country in that time. Basically, a country of roughly 8 million people lost almost 40% of its population with less than 3 months.

      By now, the country and its people have forgiven (or so at least it seems) - a remarkable feat - and Rwandan now live peacefully next to each other with the Hutu and Tutsi classification eliminated and forbidden.

      With such sad, devastating and horrific insights, we headed out to have some dinner before it was time to say goodbye to Rwanda and hello Tanzania. However, Rwanda and especially its clean and buzzing capital, Kigali, certainly makes me want to come back and explore the country more properly. It feels it has a lot more to offer than I have seen.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Gasabo District, District de Gasabo, Akarere ka Gasabo

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