IV. SA Ecuador/W2, 4d: Amazon Cuyabeno E

Mo, 01.05. Baños-Lago Agrio/Nueva Loja
Around 7:30pm still on Sunday I took the bus company Transporte Baños to head first 1,5h to Ambato ($1.10) and then another 8-9h to Lago Agrio/Nueva Loja ($15) located at an altitude of 2,500-3,000m in the north-eastern department Sucumbíos. I arrived quite early around 5am at the terminal and then took a taxi to get to the meeting point at Planet Azul where we got a super yummy and big breakfast (fresh juice, scrambled eggs, warm bread with jam as well as bananas and papayas).
From there we had a roughly 2h car drive through the rainforest and the villages Dureno, Pacayaco, Tarapoa and Aguas Negras until the entrance point of Cuyabeno NP where we first got an early but good lunch. We then took the motor boat and after another 2h on the river through the Amazon rainforest (where we already saw a lot of animals such as butterflies, birds, monkeys and even already a baby anaconda) arrived at the Greenforest (Eco-)Lodge.
In total there are 11 lodges in Cuyabeno. This lodge was just opened a year ago and thus (still) very new and clean. Up to 40 people can be hosted here - but thanks to rain- and low season we were only 3-6 people; on the last 2 days I even had the 6 bed dorm completely on my own, with mosquito net and ensuite bathroom including toilet paper, soap and shampoo and being a small group is also awesome for the excursions ;) Apart from the sleeping huts there was also a common hut with kitchen, bar, dining and common area for the nightly UNO duels as well as a nice veranda with hanging seats and hammocks and constant drinking water with a tea and coffee corner. We also got a super thick poncho and rubber boots - which became our best friend and helper considering all the rain and thus river-like and muddy paths :P We partially had more staff members than guests: 1 guide, 1-2 boat drivers, 2 kitchen employees.
After our arrival we first had 2 nice hours to relax which I immediately spent in the hammock - we would see a lot of animals in the next few days (birds, monkeys, caimans, piranhas, anacondas and even the pink river dolphin) on the night walks and jungle hikes, enjoy stunning sunsets at the lagoon and skies full of stars and visit the Siona Tribe.

On our first visit to the lagoon we saw again many animals and after a short swim in the lake (the water was indeed very warm and I could hardly believe that the whole lake is dried out in the dry season) we enjoyed a nice sunset with all the plants being reflected in the water.
After that we had our nightly jungle walk where we - thanks to a top guide and good flashlights - saw many interesting insects such as spiders and frogs and I was really happy about my boots with the paths being covered in 30cm deep mud :)
Back at the lodge we had a real untypical Ecuadorian dinner: soup, spaghetti with chicken and chocolate cake :P

Tu, 02.05. Cuyabeno
On Tuesday we could sleep in until 7:30 before having a yummy breakfast incl eggs sunny side up with the so typical green banana as well as delicious fresh maracuja juice. During our boat ride we saw another 1m long and 8 months old baby anaconda; later on they can be as long as 9m, weigh as much as 500kg and strangulate their prey. Moreover we saw the red monkey and thus already 4 out of 10 types of monkey.
On our jungle walk we then got a lot of information about the typical fauna: Cinin tree against malaria, leche de sandil against stomach pains and diarrea, copal and recina negra to make fire as well as capirona as natural make-up. After lunch and during the boat ride we then saw the 5th and 6th monkey type as well as the pink river dolphin from a distance and in the evening after sunset the first camaran :)))

We, 03.05. Cuyabeno
On Wednesday we had a rather early morning around 5:45am which was definitely worth it as we had an amazing sunrise and some more animal spottings. Moreover, we saw some piranhas and that was really interesting - we caught 2 small white and 1 bigger red one (in total there are 3 types: white, red and black) and saw the impressive knife-sharp teeth. Furthermore we saw a bigger anaconda with 2,5m as well as a sloth :)))
After breakfast we then visited the Siona Tribe where a women showed us how to make the typical and daily eaten yuca bread. That was a really interesting experience for me as the bread only consists of the powder of the yuca plant which is just heated above the fire. We were allowed to participate and of course could also try it - it tastes quite nice but is very dry and can thus be kept for up to 4 weeks.
After that we tried Chicha, a very alcoholic drink made from the yuca plant and got some cultural information by a Shaman.
In the evening we went again to the lagoon, had another nice sunset and on the way back we saw pretty close to our lodge a crocodile as well as the last and 10th type of monkey. Back in the lodge we finally had fish for dinner - veeery yummy :)))

Th, 04.05. Cuyabeno-Lago Agrio/Nueva Loja
After another sleep in and delicious breakfast as well as hammock chilling I had the same way back. We saw again many animals here.
The last 4 days were very relaxed, we saw a lot of different types of plants and animals, had pretty good food and experienced the Siona community and culture. However, the 4 days were sufficient and after many mosquito bites, a lot of boat rides and nice experiences I have seen enough rainforest ;)Read more