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2023 Passport Chronicles
  • Salma T

2023 Passport Chronicles

Embarking on an epic five-month adventure across multiple Spanish speaking lands to reset my cultural chakras! I’ll be collecting stamps, walking countless miles and creating lasting memories solo and with beloved travel companions. Read more
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  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Madrid reunions: take 2

    September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    How many Erikas could I possibly reunite with over one weekend!? 😃

    When I found out Erika would be in Madrid this weekend, I made sure to be there too! We were hoping the rest of our crew could make it also but it didn’t work out.

    In the morning I walked around the city and indulged in so much good food! First some churros and chocolate at St. Ginés and then all sorts of mouthwatering pinchos at the San Miguel Market. 🍽️

    I then met up with Erika in the afternoon at a square in Madrid’s city centre. She was with family friends and the plan was to go for tapas. I lost count of how many different places we drank and nibbled at but by the time I got back, it was past midnight.

    It was a hoot being surrounded by so many Venezuelan women! 💛💙❤️

    The best part was that we couldn’t believe it’d been more than 13 years without seeing each other. It was amazing to catch up and talk as if no time went by! It was also lovely to e-meet her husband during the evening. We left hoping the next time we’d meet up would be in the Canary Islands! 🤞🏻    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Madrid reunions: take 3

    September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    From Venezuela, to Australia and now in Spain! It was so nice to reunite with Vane and Rafa. Last time I’d seen seen them they were in Oz on their honeymoon and now they had 2 lil ones.

    We met at Parque El Retiro which I hadn’t seen yet and spent the whole afternoon walking, chatting and enjoying the scenery. The park was so beautiful and their youngest wanted to walk everywhere holding my hand (what a cutie!).

    Lucky I’d gotten used to carrying 10kg on my back because there was a bit of piggy back riding too.

    After the park, we went to Santerra, a restaurant they’d opened up a few years before that had been awarded the “Best Croquetas in Spain”. And of course, I could not leave without trying them! So worth it!

    The food, the wine and even better company. What a memorable day 🤍    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Madrid reunions: take 4

    September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    One final reunion before leaving Madrid!

    Meeting up with Gabo was such a happy coincidence because he wasn’t working today so we could make it happen.

    We spent the whole afternoon between beers and pinchos as if more than 15 years hadn’t gone by! I loved reminiscing about our uni days and getting to know what we’d both been up to all these years. He hadn’t changed a bit, always laughing and never shy to speak what is on his mind.

    We probably could’ve hung for many more hours but I had a train to catch and we said adios with the hope that the next one wouldn’t take us another 15 years! 🤞🏻    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Following my Camino back to Pamplona!

    Sep 25–29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Pamplona wasn’t part of the plan but sometimes you just got follow your heart! 🙈

    Since I had a few free days before going to Hamburg, Jorge suggested I visit him. I got there Monday close to midnight and left Friday morning.

    He had to work during the week but in his free time he showed me around town and we indulged in way too much good food and wine! 🍷

    The first night I was there he made me us a lovely dinner with trout he’d caught in the river a couple days before I arrived. He also made sure I had coffee every morning and cooked lunch for us almost every day. I was pampered my whole stay! 🥰

    And because everyone knew about my love for and slight addiction to tortillas by now, he took me on afternoon to the best place in town… they were to die for! We also went to El Gaucho for some pinchos. 🤤

    El Gaucho is an institution I’d missed out on when we went through Pamplona during the Camino.

    I spent my last day walking around, painting for hours at a beautiful park, enjoying one last tortilla in Spain and chatting with lovely people at a lil wine bar.

    The highlight of my stay though, apart from all the time I got to spend with Jorge, was getting to know part of his family. We went out one evening with his dad (who I’d already met) and another one with his sister and brother in law. If I liked him already, I liked him even more after meeting his beautiful family. 🤍

    When Friday morning came, it was hard to leave but we knew it wasn’t a goodbye but rather a “see you soon” as we’d figure out a way to see each other again in no time! 🤞🏻    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Hamburg! But first a Lüneburg side trip

    Sep 29–30, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After way too many years, today I finally got to see Svenja! There was no way I’d go to Europe without visiting her. She picked me up at the airport and there were so many tears of joy when we finally hugged! So much happiness in that long overdue reunion! 🤍

    I thought I’d be spending more days in Hamburg but it ended up being a shorter stay and I’d already promised Meik I’d visit him in Lüneburg, so I went there on the first evening.

    We first drove to Svenja’s home so I could meet her family and we had a couple hours to catch up before they dropped me off at the train station. 🚊

    When I got to Lüneburg, Meik was waiting for me at the station and straight away he suggested we go on a walk to catch the sunset over the town. Walking together was kinda like being on the Camino again and the city was so so beautiful! And I got so many historical and architectural insights along the way. 🥾

    After 10k steps to the lookout followed by 4km in pouring rain, we made it to his house where a beautiful German dinner and beers awaited me! It was all delicious and he even took the time to design a menu describing everything we were feasting on and where everything was sourced from. Most importantly, we enjoyed hours of fascinating conversation as is always the case with Meik! 🍻

    In the morning, there was perfectly brewed coffee and we shared a wholesome brekkie before I returned to Ahrensburg hoping we’d get to meet sometime again in the future! 🤗

    PS: Who knew German trains being late was a thing!?!? A very regular thing! ⏰    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    A few days with Svenja in Ahrensburg!

    Sep 30–Oct 2, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    My days in Ahrensburg where an absolute joy, spending so much quality time with Svenja, Moritz and the 2 lil cuties!

    There were so many special and heartwarming moments during my stay I wouldn’t even know where to begin!

    From sharing beautiful meals, coffees and cocktails, to trying all the amazing German bread, to exploring Ahrensburg with my dear friend and cooking together, to watercolouring with the kids, to discovering a shared love for rum with Moritz and the endless conversations like time never went by.

    Loved how her lil ones were so comfortable around me that they would talk to me in German all day even though I couldn’t understand a word and Jelva would hold my hand everywhere we went, so adorable! 🥰

    Saying goodbye at the airport was such a bittersweet moment and saying goodbye to the lil ones broke my heart but I promised I’d stay in touch and send them postcards from my travels. 🎑

    Can’t wait to see them all again in Europe or in Australia! Hopefully both! 🤞🏻    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Bye bye (for now) Europe!

    Oct 2–3, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    My flight to Lima was from Paris and my initial plan was to fly from Hamburg on the morning of the 3rd but flights were so expensive (think because it was a public holiday in Germany). So when I found out Marielis would be working in Paris on the 2nd, I reconsidered my plan and we made another reunion happen!

    The last time I’d seen Mari was at least over 12 years ago and she was bummed when she couldn’t make it to Madrid to reunite with Erika so seeing an old friend in Paris would bring her so much joy. It brought us both so much joy! 🤍

    I’m sure if we’d planned it, it wouldn’t have worked out but what a way to spend my last night in Europe, reunited with a dear friend, seeing the Eiffel Tower for the first time and indulging in some cheese, wine and so many tales! It’s not possible to catch up on 12 years in one evening but we gave it our best shot!

    What a lovely night and what a journey so far! Can’t wait to see what else is coming my way ✨    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    I’m in Huaraz but where is my luggage!?

    Oct 4–7, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    So I landed in Lima but already knew from my layover in Miami that my luggage had not made the plane. I was heading 9 hours north to Huaraz and I’d have to wait about a day and a half to receive it. The plan was to stay in Huaraz for about 10 days, spending a few days climatising on day hikes and then doing the 4 day Santa Cruz trek but American Airlines had a different plan for me.

    I actually had to wait 4 days to receive my luggage (very annoying!) and ended up spending the first days in town exploring, indulging and meeting some beautiful people!

    On the first night I met Cesar (ARG) who was volunteering at the hostal and Lauryn (USA) who was also staying there. Cesar was super excited to encounter a Spanish speaking person among all the Europeans and volunteered himself to accompany me to find somewhere to have dinner. Lauryn came along too.

    I spent the following day with Lauryn and a few of her friends heading up to the lookout.. a 4km walk up that took 2 hours with the altitude 😅. We enjoyed a few drinks at the top and made it down just as it started to pour so we found shelter at a bar that looked like a strip club… it wasn’t! 🤷🏻‍♀️

    On the third day, I met Maria (VAL), another Spanish speaker staying at the hostal and, with Cesar, we went to have lunch at the markets. Maria wanted to get some fresh fish too which Cesar kindly offered to cook for us that night. Yay for chef friends! 🧑‍🍳

    Our group dinner got carried away when we also decided to buy ingredients to make pisco sours… Spaniards are a “bad” influence! 💃🏻

    Around 10pm when the bottle was finished and they suggested we go out for one more, I was a no go. We laughed so much that night but my jet lag kicked in and I was about to collapse. They came back at 2am! 😵

    By then, I knew my luggage would arrive the next morning and Cesar had organised a group to go camp at Lake Churup. I was so keen to go and the whole group was happy to have a late departure so I could get my bag, so nice! 🥰    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Overnight camping at Laguna Churup

    Oct 7–8, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Finally my bag arrived and I barely had time to get back to the hostel, have a shower and get my things ready to go.

    It was 8 of us going including 3 French gals, a couple from the UK, Cesar (who was our guide), Maria and me.

    It took us about an hour in a van to get to Pitek, the starting point. The 600m climb over 3km to our campground was quite steep and very slow (3 hours!) between the weight of our packs and the altitude.

    By the time we got to the top, rain was coming so we had to setup camp quickly. Very shortly after, the UK couple started feeling pretty ill with altitude sickness and they were getting worse by the minute so Cesar had to take them down and hike back up in the dark. 😔

    It was very cold so we were all napping in our tents waiting for Cesar to come back to have dinner together. The poor thing made it back around 9pm, so beat but still with the best of moods. He made Coca tea for the remaining group and we all crashed afterwards. ⛺️

    In the morning, we all went up to the lake while Cesar packed up the tents. Lucky we didn’t have to carry our packs for this because it was almost a 100m steep climb on boulders and chains! ⛓️

    We got to spend like an hour enjoying the landscape! The colour and reflection on the water, the rock formations surrounding the lake, all breathtaking!

    Around noon, we started making our way down and on the drive back we picked up a few climbers who ended up serenading us with an ukulele!

    To wrap up the day we went for a lovely group dinner but it was an early night as a few of us would be waking up at 4:30 am to go to Laguna 69 the next day!    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    A day in Laguna 69

    October 9, 2023 in Peru

    Waking up at 4am today was not easy but it was totally worth it!

    We spent a few hours on the bus to the start of the trail and our journey led us through a scenic pit stop at Valle Llanganuco where we were mesmerised by the turquoise waters of Laguna Chinancocha.

    The 14km return hike in Huascaran National Park, which has Peru’s highest peak at 6,700m, started at 3,900m, with a 700m elevation gain to Laguna 69 at 4,600m.

    Most of the way was a gradual winding uphill, with most of the elevation gained in the last (very steep) kilometre. It was drizzling the whole way and the altitude was a bit tough so there wasn’t much conversation happening with the lovely french gals. 🥖

    The last Km was particularly tough for one of the girls who was starting to battle altitude sickness but once she made it to the top, she was all better! 😮‍💨

    It also stopped raining then and the sun came out shining on on the lake! We were so lucky to enjoy our lunch with the most amazing of views ☀️

    The whole way down was also full of sunshine and the clouds cleared to show some of Peru’s majestic peaks! And this beautiful weather only added to the jaw-dropping scenery! 🏔️

    After we got back, a well-deserved dinner in town marked the end of a day where altitude demanded its toll. 🥱    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    An impromptu visit to Paracas

    Oct 11–12, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Maria and I had both gone to Huaraz to do the Santa Cruz trek but it wasn’t in the cards for us. So after a rest day, we redirected our journey towards the south of Peru to Paracas.

    I figured it’d be nice to enjoy some time by the beach before going to Cusco and Cesar had also gone there the day before so the three of us were excited to reunite again!

    The main beach in Paracas was underwhelming but I got to enjoy the best ceviche ever with lovely water views and a tropical vibe—twice! 😋

    The only night I spent in town led us to a lively karaoke session in one of the hostels where we also bumped into Lauren and her friends! The night was super fun with lots of singing and dancing!

    I had planned to leave the following day in the afternoon to Cusco so Maria and I went on a cruise in the morning to the Ballestas Islands (aka the poor people’s Galapagos) to see some wildlife in their natural habitat! Despite the commercialised tour, the sight of so many sea lions, birds, and a couple of penguins in their natural habitat brought us immense joy! 🤩

    After my second ceviche, I went to catch the bus knowing that Maria and I were likely to see each other again in Cusco but with Cesar it was a bittersweet farewell.    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Indulging in Cusco!

    Oct 13–16, 2023 in Peru

    A trip that was plannned over a 3 hour flight to Cairns was finally underway! Nath and I had both arrived to Cusco and we spent a few days here to climatise before going on the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. ⛰️

    We both had very long journeys to get here so the first night we grabbed some dinner and called it a night.

    On the second day, we started off with brekkie at our lovely hotel and then off we went to wander the lively streets of Cusco! We walked, shopped, walked some more, lunched, walked and then spent the afternoon and evening at a bar with epic views of the city indulging on the pisco sour happy hour! After way too many piscos and laughs doing lots of catching up, we needed some food and ended up somewhere eating pizza. The bill is a hazy memory! 🥴

    The following day was another fun one exploring the town some more, indulging in more shopping and eating, and a heartwarming dinner with Maria before our Salkantay briefing session. It was lovely seeing Maria again and wrapping up our stay in Cusco packing for the next few days. 🥾    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Salkantay Trek Day 1: Cusco > Soraypampa

    October 16, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Walking Distance: 13 km, approximately 6 hours of hiking.

    Today was one of the earliest starts since my Camino days (4:00am!). We left Cusco bright and early towards Soraypampa, where we begun our two-hour uphill hike to the mesmerising Humantay Lake, its name deriving from “huma” for crest and “tay” for closeness.

    Beside the lake, we got to enjoy some downtime and learn about landscapes and Incan culture from Abel, our guide.

    We learnt that Humantay and Salkantay are special borders in the range, covering a lot of diversity in terms of nature and wildlife. Peru overall has over 80 of the 104 ecosystems/microclimates that exist in the world and and today’s trek covered 10, insane!

    From the lake, it was an easy two-hour downhill hike to the Quiswarniyoc campsite, where lunch including mango ceviche awaited. 🤤

    In the afternoon, we had a another gathering to learn more about our surroundings and hear Abel’s captivating thoughts.

    Our campsite was nestled at an altitude of 4,100 meters and thanks to the slower pace of some in our group adjusting to the altitude (thanks Nath!), we were treated to the luxury of staying in the glass igloos, with their breathtaking mountain views and an illuminated night sky - an unexpected reward for a slower ascent. 💁🏻‍♀️

    Just the first day and it was already filled with unique experiences!    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Salkantay Trek Day 2: over the pass

    October 17, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Walking Distance: 22 km, approximately 9 hours of hiking.

    The day begun with a gentle wake-up call at 5:00 am, with the cooks serving us a cup of hot coca tea… in bed!! ☕️

    We would need the tea to cover over 20 kms and reach the trek’s highest point at an altitude of 4,630 m.a.s.l. 🥾

    Salkantay (salka meaning wild) is the second highest mountain in Cusco and the journey through the pass was a very slow 4-hour uphill hike with incredible vistas! 🏔️

    At the top, we learnt about the revered mountain gods, and took part in a traditional Andean ritual to honor Pachamama and the mountain god. Lucky Nath and I had brought a very Aussie offering! 😅

    After this memorable experience, we had a 4-hour downhill hike, pausing for a well-deserved, delicious lunch.

    The second camp, Chaullay, was nestled at an altitude of 2,900 meters and marked the entrance to the Peruvian Amazon. It was fascinating how the landscape had changed so much over 2 days. 🌳

    While we waited for dinner we got to enjoy hot showers (it was literally hot for Nath 😣) and painted for a bit.

    Another rewarding day on this beautiful trail!    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Salkantay Trek Day 3: to Santa Teresa

    October 18, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Walking distance: 16km, approximately 5 hours of hiking.

    Today, we were woken up again around 5:30am with warm coca tea in bed.

    The day started with a leisurely hike along the Salkantay river and a beautiful rainforest landscape, where we spotted a hummingbird and many waterfalls! 🐦

    At the end of the trail, a van awaited to transport us to our camp with a few pit stops along the way. These breaks treated us to a mix of experiences: from savouring fresh fruits to sampling unique concoctions of alcohol infused with intriguing ingredients as well as local coffee. ☕️

    Once at camp, we got to enjoy lunch and rest for a bit before heading out to the Cocalmayo hot springs. The remainder of the afternoon was a blissful relaxation, creating unforgettable memories in this breathtaking setting and on the journey back! 🪩

    This was probably the day our group truly bonded 😊    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Salkantay Trek Day 4: to Aguas Calientes

    October 19, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Walking distance: 22km, approximately 8 hours of hiking.

    Our mornings were finally warmer so we didn’t get woken up with tea in bed but we got our first glimpse of Machu Picchu!

    The day still started super early and with a long uphill to Llactapata to enjoy incredible views of Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu, which Nath and I would be hiking tomorrow! ⛰️

    On the way up, we enjoyed a pit stop at the giant mountain swing and indulged in a couple avo sandwiches, seriously delish! 🤤

    After all this, we still had a couple hours of going downhill to Hidroeléctrica, where we had lunch before walking the last stretch along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes. It was a long but great day!

    After dinner, we enjoyed a restful sleep and wished for great weather!    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Machu Picchu: the Lost City of the Incas

    October 20, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    An unforgettable day! Not just because I got to see one of the new Wonders of the World, but because I shared this incredible experience with a dear friend 👯‍♀️

    Nath and I arrived at Machu Picchu early in the morning with our group, and initially, the weather wasn't promising. After four days of hiking to get there, the cloudy sky wasn't what we expected. Fortunately, slowly but surely, a beautiful blue sky and radiant sun emerged, making the day truly memorable. ☀️

    As the morning went by, we were thrilled walking among magnificent structures which seemed unreal on that mountainside. Our awe reached new heights when we got to the starting point of the climb to Huayna Picchu. ⛰️

    It took us 45 minutes to go up the "death stairs", but the breathtaking views made it all worthwhile!

    On our way back, Nath suggested the steep trek down to Aguas Calientes. That's when the weather changed and we got caught in a bit of rain. I wasn’t thrilled going downhill but it was a small price to pay for the amazing day we enjoyed and will forever remember.

    Gracias Pachamama! 🙏    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Floating on the Islands of Puno

    Oct 21–22, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After leaving Cusco, Nath and I headed to the floating islands of Puno, hoping for a peaceful stay. Upon arrival, we met our host, Cesar, who shared the challenges of the two-year drought affecting the lake. The water levels were visibly low, further impacted by the pandemic and recent local protests, which had taken a toll on tourism.

    During our first night at Samaraña Uta Lodge (aka La Casa del Descanso), we had a lovely time sharing stories and laughs over dinner with other guests. 🍽️

    The next day, Cesar guided us through the islands, offering insights into their construction and the local way of life, which felt like a step back in time. We admired their simple yet challenging lifestyle, involving island maintenance, fishing, duck hunting and egg collection.

    When we got back to our cozy island spot, we enjoyed a simple lunch and spent the afternoon by the lake, painting and sipping wine. 🎨

    The day wrapped up with another delicious dinner among good company as we would leave very early the next day to La Paz. 🎣

    Staying on the floating islands was the perfect way to unwind and recharge for the next leg of our journey! It also felt very humbling to be there, being thanked for picking a native local for our stay. 🤍    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Cycling Death Road to La Senda Verde

    October 24, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After Perú, Nath and I arrived to La Paz to take on Bolivia's Death Road on bikes – what a ride! Pedalling on the narrow path, we were on the side of a mountain with views that went from amazing to kinda scary at times. 😬

    We went through muddy spots and past waterfalls, navigating sharp turns and steep hills. It was a mix of excitement and nerves as we rode from high plains to the lush Yungas region. Even though they call it Death Road, it was surprisingly fun and our guides made sure we were safe while we tackled the downhill. 🚲

    Going around each curve, the joy of biking on this famous road was made even better by the beautiful views (even with the smog) and visiting a beautiful animal reserve at the end where we got to see deer, monkeys, pumas, etc.

    These memories will stick with us long after we stopped riding. It started as a bit of a scary journey but Death Road turned into an awesome adventure we'll always remember!    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Flat out amazing: Salar de Uyuni

    October 27, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt flat, was next up on the list of amazing places to visit and explore! 🧂

    We spent a full day in Uyuni mostly chillin (enjoying delish food, painting and playing cards) before starting the tour which had us passing through a train graveyard and a small town where we learnt about salt production in the region until we finally had our first glimpse of the flats! 🚂

    While our lunch was setup, we got to ride bikes and experience the surface. And talk about lunch with a view!

    The journey continued cruising on an endless sea of white where we took a break to indulge in a perspective-bending photo session, a must at the salt flats. Think riding miniature llamas, optical illusions and playful poses adding to the fun memories. 📸

    We didn’t think this day could get any better until we reached Incahuasi Island, a cactus-covered oasis in the middle of it all. Simply wow! 🌵

    From there, we traveled some more until we found ourselves completely surrounded by white again with the sun setting, the moon rising, and the landscape completely transformed before our eyes again (or maybe it was the wine?). 🍷    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Two more days in the Bolivian desert

    Oct 28–29, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    There aren’t enough photos to capture how beautiful this place is and how much we took in over the next 2 days. The desert wasn’t normally a landscape I was drawn to but here everything was jaw dropping!

    ⛰️ Lakes and mountains of all the colours!
    🦙🦊 Wildlife everywhere!
    🦩 So many flamingos!
    🏊‍♀️ Hot springs!
    💨 Geysers!
    ✨ Stars!

    There are also no photos of the moment our Land Cruiser almost fully tipped over or when Nath and I had to part ways at the Chilean border because someone (sorry chikita!) forgot to check for visa requirements 🤦🏻‍♀️

    It was a very abrupt and unexpected end to 2 unforgettable weeks travelling with my bestie, creating memories in yet another continent 🌎 🙌🏻 🧡

    PS: I will be forever grateful to have found a couple tour guides still at the Bolivian border that were happy to give me a ride back to Uyuni. They only charged $20 for the 7 hour return trip that ended up including a free lunch and wifi in the car so I could organise my accommodation for that night 🙏    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Hello Argentina and Humahuaca!

    Oct 30–Nov 2, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I didn't get much rest, having to wake up at dawn to catch my bus to Humahuaca. In a few hours, I'd be in Argentina with around four weeks of absolute freedom and no plans 🫣

    Unlike Chile, crossing the border from Bolivia to Argentina was a breeze! After two buses and about six hours of travel, I arrived in the loveliest little town. The hostel was super cozy, so I decided to stay a few days to rest and explore at a leisurely pace 😌

    I spent the first day wandering around town, painting, eating, and enjoying the local food. The empanadas were so delicious and cheap, and I quickly started losing track of how many I had! 🤤

    I also met wonderful people in the hostel who made my stay even more enjoyable. A few of us visited La Quebrada del Hornocal, where we saw the stunning Cerro de los 14 Colores (the 14-colored mountain)! ⛰️

    Then I met Henri, a cool French guy with a car, and we teamed up to visit La Quebrada de las Señoritas. This place has a fascinating legend about a group of ladies who hid a treasure from the Spaniards during Incan times, and sacrificed their lives to Pachamama, which in turn formed coloured peaks in their honor. We had a lovely day hiking in this arid landscape, and our guide was amazing, taking us off the trail to see and connect with very unique rock formations 🪨

    Back at the hostel, I spent a lot of time with Mauro and Rama, two friends cycling from Mendoza to Mexico! We taught each other how to make different kinds of bracelets and had an amazing social night with Rama’s pizza-making skills. I also tried fernet for the first time (but wasn't sold on it) 🍕

    I even discovered a random song about the town folk, which Jorge, of all people, told me about when he found out I was there. It was one of his favourites apparently, and our chef recreated it with a flute 🪈

    After a few days of taking it easy, it was time to move on. Luckily, Henri and I were both headed to Salta, so our adventures would continue for a few more days! 🚗
    ___
    Note to self: learn how to make empanadas norteñas or go back to Argentina for some more!    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    A quick jump to Salta!

    Nov 3–5, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    From Humahuaca, Henri and I embarked on a breathtaking 3 hour road trip to Salta, surrounded by stunning mountains the entire way. The joirney itself was a visual treat and it was nice to be travelling in a car. 🛣️

    We had hoped to experience the famous ‘Train to the Clouds,’ but since this leg of my trip was unplanned, I hadn’t realized it required booking weeks in advance. So the stay in Salta was brief but nice.

    We explored the town, enjoyed a typical Peña, and hiked up to the cable car station, which offered fantastic views of the entire city. The Peña was a highlight, filling the night with joyful music, beautiful dancing, and a traditional Argentinian BBQ that left us in a delightful food coma. The next day’s hike to the cable car station was a perfect way to walk off some of that delicious food. 🥩 🍷💃🏻

    The morning after, Henri and I parted ways, as we were heading to Cafayate via different routes. I wanted to stay an extra day in Salta to find a post office, send Lukas the poncho I'd been carrying since Cusco and mail a few postcards. 📦 💌

    From there I took a bus to Cafayate and to our surprise, we ended up at the same hostel! 🏨    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    To Cafayate because wine not!? 🍷

    Nov 5–10, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Next on the itinerary was Cafayate, a cute town known for its wineries.

    I was delighted to find out that Henri was staying at the same hostel, which was incredibly cozy, featuring a large garden with a bar, music, fairy lights and nightly film screenings outside. It was the perfect place to unwind, paint and relax. Within a few days here, the hostel guests and volunteers felt like one big family.

    Henri and I ventured out to find more empanadas, and they exceeded our expectations! We also explored several wineries around town. We also met Mike, and the three of us enjoyed a fantastic meal at a beautiful winery outside of town to bid farewell to Henri 🤗

    During my stay, I also met Maria, who was volunteering at the hostel, and Marta, who was traveling through Argentina. We decided to tackle the Quebrada de las Conchas route on bikes—50 kilometers under a scorching sun! So we rented bikes and took an 8:30am bus towards Salta, hopping off at Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) to avoid cycling both ways. 🚴🏻‍♀️

    After a short climb at Garganta del Diablo, we set off on our bikes, stopping at El Anfiteatro, another impressive rock formation. There, we met a lovely man who, upon hearing I was Venezuelan, played "Alma Llanera" for us—a truly special moment in an incredible setting with amazing acoustics. 🎶

    Next, we visited the Tres Cruces viewpoint and many other stops along the way for some fantastic panoramic views, and goats! We returned to Cafayate just after 3pm, over six hours after starting our ride. The final 10 kilometers felt endless, but we finally made it back and organised a big dinner with the hostel crew, filled with laughter and great conversation (and empanadas of course!). I absolutely love this place!

    The following day, Mike and I explored the local museum, enjoyed more good food around town, I bought some crochet needles and enjoyed much needed downtime. 🎨

    A couple days after that, Marta and I left Cafayate together, sharing a bus to San Miguel de Tucumán before going our separate ways. But not before spending our last morning attempting to hitchhike to another winery out of town (very unsuccessfully), experiencing a wine tasting at a very random ‘winery’ in town with surprisingly great reviews on Google, and finally ending up at La Bodega Domingo Hermanos where we got to farewell Cafayate in style! 🍷    Read more

  • Salma T2023 Passport ChroniclesTraveler

    Mendoza vibes: asados, amigos y andanzas

    Nov 10–18, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    After more than 15 hours on buses, I finally arrived in Mendoza. It was mid-afternoon, and before long, I connected with some wonderful people at my hostel who were organising a massive Argentinian BBQ for their last night. I joined them for the evening, indulging in mouthwatering steak, great conversation and plenty of laughter 🥩

    The hostel had a pool, which made me excited to settle in for the next few days!

    After a rest day exploring the town, I embarked on a full-day tour to see Aconcagua. Unfortunately, hiking was out of the question as it wasn’t the season, but I made the most of it. We spent a lot of time on the bus, but the breathtaking views, the interesting stops along the way, and the sky clearing just in time to reveal Aconcagua’s peak made it all worthwhile. It was also so nice to chat with so many locals 🏔️

    I also met a cool Brazilian guy with whom I walked almost the entire city one day. We got lost in Parque San Martín on our way to Cerro La Gloria, where I unexpectedly ran into Brieuc from Cafayate (what a small world!). The walk through the enormous park and up the hill was a blast. We even scored a free bus ride back to the hostel-lucky us! 🚍

    The next day, I met up with Brieuc and was introduced to a couple of his friends, and we all ended up hanging out the following evenings between BBQs, dinner and even some dancing at a club! 🕺🏻

    My last night was particularly memorable. So many travelers gathered around a fire at a hostel playing guitar and singing, before heading to a club for a few hours of partying! In the morning, I met up with the guys for breakfast to say goodbye and before catching my flight to Bariloche 🔥

    Mendoza wasn’t my favourite city, but as usual, it’s always the people❣️    Read more

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