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Round-the-south

February - July 2017
A 145-day adventure by Sara Read more
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  • TravelerRound-the-south
    1
    Day 13

    Buenos Aires- La Boca

    March 3, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    We managed the bus ride today as we were heading to La Boca- simple to say! It's one of the oldest areas in Buenos Aires, rich with history and art. It was one of the main docks, and became a melting pot of working class immigrants from all over the world. It was here that Tango was born, and football is worshiped as a religion.

    The streets are painted in wonderful primary colours. A homage to how it looked over a hundred years ago, when the workers from the docks would create houses from the scraps they could find, including unfinished paint pots of every colour.

    Tango dancers perform in most restaurants here, initially a dance between two men, tango evolved in La Boca being ignored by the oligarchs of Recoleta until it became fashionable in Europe if course!

    The end of the tour was the blue and gold stadium for the famous Boca Juniors team. Fans are proudly known as the shit shovelers, and are amongst the most feverent in the world. Playing at the stadium is supposed to be very intimidating for opposing teams. They run out of space to build stands on the east side, and so it's a solid wall- known as the 3rd fan that creates a wall of noise.

    We sat down for lunch and broke our promise of austerity by ordering a mixed grill. It was still far cheaper than in the UK promise! Caught the bus back to San Telmo, and explored the streets and the market place. We stumbled across a square with tango dancers and watched for a while, then enjoyed some coffee in the local market.

    In our hostel we met a lovely pair from London who have just started their 7th week traveling. Both are architects and speak fluent spanish a very handy skill that we were desperately trying to improve. They had passed a live music venue the night before, and we headed out together to this quirky venue. Small and intimate we enjoyed a jazz concert with some good beer and empenadas.    Read more

  • TravelerRound-the-south
    Day 15

    Buenos Aires to Montevideo

    March 5, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After a few to many beers the day before, we had a late start today. Looking at the map we aimed for Palmero. With sweeping parks full of roses it was elegant and open. We jumped back on the metro and grabbed a quick lunch overlooking Congress. An imposing building with many interesting sculptures decorating its front. Again we joined a walking tour (sensing a theme yet?) and meandered our way from Congress to the Pink House, passing Tango Cafès and a Dante's Inferno inspired building which has a partner in Montevideo.

    One of the most moving stories we've heard is represented by handkerchieves painted onto the floor of Plaza da Mayo. During its military dictatorship many men went missing, theorised to have been executed and dropped from airplanes, never to be seen again. In the square the mothers would protest in pairs, as they could be arrested if they were in greater numbers. They wore the handkerchiefs on their heads and asked where their children had gone.

    More recently a new group called grandmothers of the missing campaigned to find their grandchildren. Pregnant mothers that opposed the dictatorship would be allowed to carry their baby to term before they were killed. These babies were then given to families within the dictatorship. They find these babies now by DNA testing, with about 100 found so far.

    The day after we caught a ferry and the bus to Montevideo Uruguay. We can't help adding another stamp to our passports! We've arrived on a Sunday and Montevideo is a ghost town! We ambled down the rambla a walkway that extends the whole of the cities coast. We walked from leafy square to leafy square, just stopping from time to time to sit. After a busy few days in BA, it was nice to enjoy some peace as we sipped beer, and listened to a saxophonist play pink panther and moon river.

    Our hostel is an amazing family run place called Hostel Babilonia, with gorgeous inside spaces. Tonight we seem to have the place to ourselves (and the 4 month old puppy that loves James' smelly socks!). Outside on the street corner something is being filmed and we spent a few minutes listening to the flair and sass of its American director.

    Hostel: Babalonia- a costly £50 for 2 nights but we did have the whole hostel to ourselves! Run by two women who made us a lovely breakfast, They were struggling against the bigger hostel chains in the city. It was a beautiful space with greenery hanging from the roof, but felt very empty with just us two.    Read more

  • TravelerRound-the-south
    1
    Day 17

    Montevideo

    March 7, 2017 in Uruguay ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We fell a little bit in love with Montevideo after just a day there, and would recommend anyone to visit. After the hustle and bustle of Rio and BA, the city had a really chilled vibe, matched by its people who enjoy a slower pace to life. If I ever emigrate it may be to Uruguay!

    When we ventured out in the morning life had reentered the city, and the streets were busy with vendors, cafés and stalls. We wandered down from the old city to independence square where (of course) we met our walking tour guide sipping his matte (a herbal tea which most Uruguans carry around all day, clutching their hot water flasks like a baby). He was the most eccentric guide yet, and had a wonderful self depricating way of describing Montevideo and its inhabitants. Uruguyans are mostly lazy, friendly and progressive. Their loves are football and steak, and that is all you need to become Uruguyans, vegetarians beware.

    We followed him from one leafy square to the next untill we ended in the old market, now full of steak restaurants. With our new friends from the walking group we sat down to some more amazingly good steak and wine. We decided to meet up again in the evening and after a few drinks at their hostel, we headed to a tapas restaurant. We ended the night learning a new card game from Columbia which had been dubbed "Cuckoo". Tricky and conniving I hope we come up against more people who know this game!

    Next day and we're back in BA with a flight down to Patagonia tomorrow. It will be a nice change to go from hot busy cities to a colder climate, with amazing mountains to trek!    Read more

  • TravelerRound-the-south
    1
    Day 18

    Perito Moreno Glacier

    March 8, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    El Calafate was a shock to the system after the busy hot cities. A small town on the side of an aquamarine lake, it's like Betws-y-Coed full of quirky touristic places. Flamingos feed on the lake shore, while hundreds of stray dogs wander peacefully around in packs. Our hostel is cosy, with friendly staff and fellow travellers. I'm making use of its free tea service as I type.

    A trip to the glacier is a must in this area and it was awe inspiring in its size and beauty. Stretching over 5 km across, this great hulk of ice is alive. Cracks and thunderous roars are accompanied by the fall of great chunks of ice to the lake below. We spent hours walking along the different viewpoints and taking it in. The cost to the park was expensive but worth it for the spectacle.

    Travelling within Patagonia is expensive as well, but the views should pay off if the weather holds! Waiting for a bus to El Chalten now, hoping to hike to views of the Fitz Roy mountain!

    Hostel: I Keu Ken. Such a friendly hostel, which was obvious from seeing everyone huddled together around tables through its misted windows. We had a 4 bedded dorm which we shared with a rather pessimistic english couple who though the glacier was a let down! Two nights for £20 and as is with the best hostels breakfast was included.    Read more

  • TravelerRound-the-south
    2
    1
    Day 22

    Fitz Roy

    March 12, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    After an amble down to town to try and see flamingos (they stayed away from shore and a few pink blobs were seen a few hundred meters away), onward we went to El Chalten. A small town full of little restaurants and hostels, it's picturesque with each building a different primary colour. Our hostel here has a colourful host who likes to call everyone motherfuckers. We arrived to cloud and rain and after a run to an almost bare supermarket, we sat down for dinner and wine. We shared stories with couples from the Netherlands and Australia hoping for good weather the next day.

    Our wishes were answered as I drew the curtain back the next morning and we had crystal clear skies, no wind and the top of Mount Fitz Roy was just visible behind a hill. After a quick breakfast we headed off down the 20km trail. After 4 km we had our first view of the mountain, a lone cloud lingering by the lake. Truly gigantic against the horizon. We wandered on stopping frequently as we stared at the granite formation in front of us. The last 1.2km goes very steep, up 400m to the laguna below the mountain that stands at 1200m. All I can say is that James has the patience of a saint as I turtled my way up. The views were definitely worth it, no words can describe seeing mount Fitz Roy towering above you at 3400m in the sun.

    We celebrated by treating ourselves to beer and pizza in a small place called La Cervisaria. Their Hawaiian not only has pineapples but cherries too! After a deep sleep I awoke to an achey right knee, with the wind howling and rain drumming against the window I passed on any further hiking this week. James set off to laguna torres while I explored town and stayed in the cozy hostel. Puerto Natales and W trek await....if the trails are open.

    Hostel: £28 pounds for three nights in a 6 person dorm. Worth every penny just for the host, who must have learnt english from listening to Blink 182 etc.    Read more

  • TravelerRound-the-south
    Day 27

    W trek 1-2 From Paine to Grey and back

    March 17, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    An early start after little sleep the night before, we jumped on a bus and headed toward Torres del Paine National Park. To say I was nervous would be an understatetment. A huge one. This would be a multiday hike with a laden bag. I've never come close to doing something similar before. With a gammy knee still causing some problems after the fitzroy hike I just hoped no more injuries would appear.

    Upon registering at the park office and paying the fee (three times more then locals) we watched a video about fire saftey, the park having been devastated by fire in the past. A quick ferry ride across a lake giving a taster of the awsome views we would see, and we made it to the start of our trek at Paine Grande. We would trek from there to Refugio Gray a 11km walk.

    Getting used to walking with a heavy-ish backpack was lovely (sarcasm), thank god for walking poles. Thankfully we had blue skies, light winds and streams full of cold refreshing glaciar water. After an hour or so we started spotting iceburgs on the lake, and soon we came to a view of glacier gray itself. It wound back to the distance, part of the massive patagonian ice field beyond. We sat and had some lunch and a cheeky bird of pray landed only a meter away.

    Trekking down to refugio gray we passed through charcoled forests from the previous fires. It was extremely sad to see especially when you walked through enchanting green forests afterwards.

    We reached refugio gray, passed the people in luxury (cheaters according to James), and set up camp in a forested area in our cozy bright yellow tent. We made some tasty pasta with chorizo, with our nifty little stove, and stared in awe at people using white gas with their BBQ style flames! I was out like a light the moment my head hit my makeshift pilow (a pile of clothes).

    Next day my knee was NOT happy so I passed on the extra km and chilled in the campsite sunbathing whilst gobbling ibuprofen. Once they kicked in we hiked back over to stay at Paine Grande. A lovely campsite by the lake with foxes playing up high on the rocks.

    Number of blisters= 0
    Number of km= 22
    Number of times I said Hola as people passed= >100
    Number of ibuprofens= 2    Read more

  • TravelerRound-the-south
    1
    Day 28

    W trek day 3- The French Valley

    March 18, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    After setting camp in Paine Grande in a quiet secluded spot we were soon surrounded by over 20 American teenagers. Our peace was shattered. We set off earlier today around 10 am, still late for trekking, and ambled through rolling hills towards Campamento Italiano and the French Valley.

    After 2 hours we started to hear thunder despite the clear blue skies above. Every 30 minutes a crashing sound would echo around the park with no sign yet of its source. We continued on through a forested area with large granite mountains looming above, and the large aquamarine Norweigan lake starting to the left.

    When we arrived in Campamento Italiano we were assesed by the ranger for suitability, as going up the valley can take 3 hours and he decides when to close the trail for the day. We passed his assesment, and gleefully put our big packs down in a mound of backpacks and switched to day packs. Trekking with no weight is the most amazing feeling!

    Whilst James started his run (I'm not kidding, he can run uphill and down like a mountain goat) to the top viewpoint, I sneaked into a guided group up to the first viewpoint about halfway up. A good guide, he set a gentle pace up the steep valley, and the only thing I had to worry about was being stabbed by the walking poles of the rather elderly gent in front who liked to swing them backwards haphazardly instead of using them.

    Once we arrived at the viewpoint the source of the thunderous noise became clear. Avalanches of snow would fall down the steep slopes of Paine Grande mountain. I sat here for a few hours; first listening to the talk of the tour guide about how all the park was formed. Once the tour group decended I chatted away to fellow trekkers from Germany and South Korea whilst watching the avalanche show unfold.

    Once James was back from his run still in one piece, we headed down together, picked the unwelcome big pack and carrried on to Camp Frances. Here we camped on platforms in the trees using hammer and nails to keep the tent in place. It had THE hottest shower with rainfall head. James ran down to the shop an bought us a beer to share before bed. I was in camping heaven!

    Number of blisters=0
    Number of km= 14
    Number of Holas=>500
    Ibuprofens=4
    Number of beers that tasted of ambrosia=1/2    Read more

  • TravelerRound-the-south
    1
    Day 29

    W trek 4- The bloody long slog

    March 19, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today we were more prepared, up and ready to go just after sunrise. We had a lot of kilometers to cover all in a general uphill direction from Camp Frances all the way up to Campamento Torres.

    The walk started again in blue skies with no wind, so as we walked along the side of a lake it looked like a mirror reflecting the great mountains above. We ambled along rolling hills in peace and quiet until a ranger on a horse burst out of the wilderness followed but two timid Americans. How not to do the W trek.

    The skies staterd darkening and a light rain fell for the rest of the day. I was thankful as it helped cool me down. We reached a sign declaring a short cut up to our destination. It really didn't feel like a short cut! Through boggy fields we trekked, getting our shoes soaked in mud more than once and when trying to find footholes my trekking pole wouldngo more than half a meter deep.

    Passing a British couple we warned them of the bog to come and in return I asked how far the next camp was. They replied miles and miles with smiles. Having already done miles and miles, I doubted them very much and set off to prove them wrong.

    A gruelling constant uphill later we joined the normal path and soon could see an alpine hut with inviting smoke poring from its chimney. We had made it to what a few had dubbed "Disneyland". We had been warned that this camp entices you in with warmth, beer and food. A honey trap, if you stay to long you won't be able to make it to your own campsite further up the valley, and they charge you extortionate prices to stay!!

    As we were making good time (take that British couple!), we had a quick sandwich and a drink before escaping up the valley to our last campsite at the base of the towers climb. A free campsite it was basic but quite picturesque in a sheltered forest with a stream running through the middle. We set up camp and ate early knowing that we had to get up very early the next morning to see the sunrise.

    Number if blisters= Still 0!!
    Number of km= 23ish
    Number of holas= I stopped counting
    Number of expensive sandwiches=2    Read more

  • TravelerRound-the-south
    1
    11
    Day 31

    W trek 5- The towers three

    March 21, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Blurry eyed at 5:30 we hustled our day bag together, strapped on our headtorches and headed into the darkness towards the towers. A 1.2km hike up a very steep incline for sunrise, its the only path shaded red for difficulty so even the Patagonians rate it hard. That means its STEEP.

    Many of you who have come across me early in the morning know that I don't function... at all. Barely any words come out and most communication and tasks are impossible. So imagine what poor James had to overcome with me without caffine or any breakfast. With a LOT of cajouling we fumbled our way up in an hour, a good 30 minutes before sunrise.

    Picking a sheltered spot, we sat down and waited to see what happened at sunrise as the towers were shrouded in fog. As sunrise came the towers remained hidden but the orange haze and a rainbow gave it a moody magnificence. When we started down the clouds started to fade so climbing back up off the path we saw them clearly with blue skies behind.

    We had 4 hours to get down to the hotel, a quick noodle breakfast and we headed off, smiling at the day trippers as they huffed their way up. We made good time, again in brilliant sunshine and celebrated with a beer at the bottom. W trek completed!!

    A sleepy bus ride back, and a very long hot shower we headed out and eat our own bodyweight in meat, before having a long deep sleep.

    I was never sure before the hike that I would make it. I am really quite proud of myself: as a novice hiker I complete over 70km with a backpack and little luxury!

    Number of blisters= 0!! - well done boots
    Number of holas= must have been a thousand passing all the daytrippers
    Number of km= 11km
    Whole trip around 70km
    Happy backpackers= 2    Read more

  • TravelerRound-the-south
    Day 33

    Y Wladfa

    March 23, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    We spent a day in Puerto Natales after the trek just sitting around the hostel doing the least possible. Having done the trek we blossomed into advice givers for the few in the hostel that had just arrived.

    A particular young dutch man was set on doing the trek with a ton of food with no equipment to cook it. His plan was to bribe others with choclate to use theirs. We gently advised at least buying a stove as free gas could be found in most campsites if his plan fell through!

    After another long bus journey we've arrived in Puerto Madryn. Here we are lucky enough to be hosted by Maelor and Sonia, a couple who speak Welsh, and have stayed in Eifionydd before whilst visiting Wales. We're staying in one of their lovely flats not far from the seafront. The perfect place to unwind and relax for a couple of days after the first hectic month of travelling.

    Exploring the area we've found a statue commemorating the Welsh settlers and the caves the settlers created as shelter when they first arrived. By the caves we bumped into a couple of Welsh girls from Caernarfon, Gwennan is the girlfriend of Osian from Llanuwchllyn. Byd bach!

    Entering the museum I was delighted to be welcomed in Welsh by the staff member who had only been learning Welsh for 1 month. An interesting museum it have the account of the first few settlers including a murder attempt!

    Afterwards we enjoyed a lovely tea with Maelor and Sonia in their flat overlooking the seafront, and Maelor helped us buy bus tickets onwards to Gaiman due to our pitiful Spanish!    Read more

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