Cebráns

“The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.” - Jacques Cousteau

Day 40 - Finesterre to Muxia by bus

Well yesterday was fun! Three Netflix movies, two slices of toast, four plain cookies and 2 rolls of toilet paper! Lordy. At least I woke up feeling better today and was able to hop the morning bus to Muxia.

I love the sea, the salty smell in the air and the brisk brisk breeze that usually accompanies a seaside town. Muxia has all of that. It also has the usual parade of bars and restaurants along the front, lots of seagulls and lots of rain. Again with the poncho on, poncho off all day.

Thankfully, I was able to leave my backpack at the hostel I was supposed to have checked into yesterday, as check-in wasn’t until noon (and it was only 10:45). Lost those € for the night I wasn’t here, but what could I do?

Off I go to wander the town. Up and down the small streets, along the front where I watched a couple of women clam digging and around the small harbour. The wind was blowing and the rain was coming down. I didn’t last too long. But then, neither did the rain! By the time I got back to the area where the bars are, the rain had stopped.

I continued out of town and towards the lighthouse and Santuario da Barca. The Muxia 0.000km marker and the A Frerida (Wounded) sculpture. The wind up here was almost as crazy as at Finesterre!

The cultural history of this town is linked to the Sanctuary of A Barca and the surrounding stones. It has been the object of magical-religious worship throughout the centuries and of veneration for the thousands of pilgrims who travel the Camino Xacobeo from Santiago to Muxía – Fisterra. The arrival at the Sanctuary becomes the long-awaited reward for the effort made to reach the end of the Camino, the place where the Virgin arrived in a stone boat to encourage the Apostle Santiago . The pilgrimage of La Barca is recognized as being of National Tourist Interest.

The place is spectacular. And I had to stop myself taking too many photos! The religious precinct itself and the atrium that extends beyond the low wall, towards where the "magic" stones are, with healing and divinatory properties: the Pedra de Abalar (oscillate), the Pedra de Os Cadrís (Kidneys), Pedra dos Namorados (lovers) and the Pedra de O Temón (rudder). They are the remains of the boat in which, legend has it, the Virgin arrived by sea to encourage the apostle Santiago in his gospel.

The temple was rebuilt several times, it is believed that four times, the last time in 2015. On Christmas Day 2013, the sanctuary suffered a tragic fire that left the altarpiece and the ceiling completely burned. Only the exterior walls and elements such as benches and confessionals remained standing. In addition, the lateral altarpieces could be recovered.

I need to go back tomorrow as I want to look at the stones with new eyes since I did not know the history until after I had been there. I also missed the A Pel fountain. This is a beautiful and magical place located next to an old pilgrim path known as the A Pel path. It is very close to Punta de la Barca.

In the spring, pilgrims and the sick bathed before entering the sanctuary of A Barca as a measure to avoid spreading leprosy. The Perello room (a perello is a demon or goblin) is made up of enormous stones that form a room inside it that can only be discovered by approaching it. This imposing mass dominates the vision in this stretch of coast.

I walked back along a different wet path that took me past an old church and it’s cemetery. Church was locked, but I was able to take a photo of the cemetery (one of two areas) - which intrigues me. I have always loved old cemeteries. But the ones here in Spain are all vaults, which is so different to other countries I have been too. The cemeteries are almost always on the edge or just outside of cities and towns. Generally by a church but not necessarily. Most are enclosed behind high whitewashed walls with a cross at the entrance. And almost all internments are in vaults, several stories high. This type of burial is due to the ground generally being too hard and rocky to dig ground level graves as we know them. Apparently, this is the same as in Italy. Hhmmm… the things you learn!

Finally checked in to my Albergue and it is almost completely empty. I think there are 3 or 4 people here and room for maybe 20. Got my bed made and then decided it was time to test my stomach with lunch. I found a cute little bar that I had been told was really good, and had padrón peppers and fried clam strips. With wine of course because it’s cheaper than tea or water!

I later walked out the other end of town towards the beaches. Again, the wind was really bad, so I turned back after getting close enough to to take a couple of photos. Contrary to popular opinion (because I like to be different!), I think I prefer Finesterre to Muxia. I was closer to the beach there (although I didn’t get to go to it ) and I like the vibe a bit more.

After that big lunch, it was a pre-packaged salad for dinner and time for an early night. Tomorrow I will meet Tracy and head to her Pilgrim post-Camino retreat home, where I am volunteering until the 29th.Read more