Spain
Hornos

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    • Day 66

      Hornos de Segura

      May 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      We are now in the village of Hornos de Segura, where the houses are balanced on overhanging rocks and the night skies are celebrated for their lack of light pollution. In fact, we spent several enjoyable hours at the castle which has been turned into an astronomical center housing a planetarium and offering nighttime telescope tours of the stars.

      We were really looking forward to walking here, but decided it was still beyond the capability my foot and knee have recovered to. So we made use of the local taxi, and over the next few days, we’ll walk whatever parts seem reasonable.
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    • Day 67

      Hornos: Arroyo de los Molinos

      May 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      With the tempting name of the arroyo, we expected to see some mills today, and maybe we did get a glimpse of them, but we were so far above the river, there was no way to tell if the roofs we were seeing were atop old mills or modern houses. We did have a great time exploring old fountains and what must be summer swimming holes, though. The biggest marvel of the day was the steep angle of the olive groves. They must have incredible tractors to be able to reach those trees.

      Today we ran into a new component of the shrinking rural population problem: Hornos - which still has enough people to support two tiny grocery shops, a bakery, two restaurants, and several bars - evidently does not have enough people to hang onto its previous bus service. The internet still shows two buses a day to the provincial capital, but both the ayuntamiento and the host of our casa rural have told us there is no bus service anymore. Hmm. That was going to be our connection for our return to Madrid next week as Hornos is the end of our planned waking route. Good thing there is still taxi service here!

      We did our first wash using a washing machine in our ten weeks here and managed to decipher the unfamiliar symbols just fine. The lucky clothes had a great view of the peak of Yelmo as they dried!

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornos-ca…
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    • Day 68

      Hornos: GR 247 toward Capellania

      May 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

      The GR 247 from Hornos to the aldea of Capellanía starts out winding through terraced olive groves north of town. They are a reminder that the prized local olive oil has its own denomination: Denominación de Origen de Aceite de Oliva Virgen Extra Sierra de Segura. If only the bottles weren’t too big and heavy to carry in backpacks! The trail then narrows and winds deep into the forested area below Yelmo Chico. On the way back, we met a local man out walking his dog who pointed out a soaring eagle, one of a pair that nests on the nearby cliff. He said the buitres that nest closer to Yelmo can be seen about 2 pm after the air has warmed up.

      Back in town, it was market day. Beautiful dark red peppers, cucumbers, and tomatoes made our lunchtime salad, and mushrooms spruced up our chicken and mashed potatoes.

      This afternoon‘s task: search for a way to walk to a village with bus service.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/above-hor…
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    • Day 69

      Hornos: Salt pans

      May 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      Today we saw salt pans (salinas)!!! We’re 300 kilometers inland and there we were, standing by evaporation ponds where salt was recovered! Not the big, huge, industrial-sized evaporation ponds like we saw at Cabo de Gata, but still, we never expected to see salt pans so far from the ocean. There must be a spring nearby that supplies saline water.

      It’s fantastic when you have an A+ walk near the end of a trip, especially when you didn’t have any particularly high expectations for the day. We started out on a Wikiloc track that would take us down to the level of the reservoir and then loop back up. At about the halfway point, I remembered reading about salt pans in the area. But where were they? No waypoints on our track indicated salinas. I checked the other tracks I had saved for the area. No luck. Giving up on finding them, we just enjoyed the butterflies and the flowers. At one point, I just happened to look backwards into a brushy area…and there they were, almost hidden in the reeds. What a stroke of good luck.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornos-sa…
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    • Day 70

      Hornos: Peña del Águila

      May 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      We managed to sneak a quick walk in before the predicted thunder and lightning started. Quite dramatic- but none of the predicted rain yet.

      Peña del Águila is a ridge that gives good views of the olive groves that surround the embalse, each with its own special colors in the soil - red, blue, green, and grey. The last ten meters to the peña were unfortunately inaccessible due to a locked gate, but since we were already up to within a meter of the maximum elevation, it didn’t really matter. The handy boulders nearby made a comfortable spot for a mandarin orange break.

      We are always speculating about how a person could make a living in these small villages. The walk today gave us some hints. First we passed a man working down in a manhole on the water system. He joins the other five men we see every day using jackhammers to dig up areas of the town streets that we assume are over waterlines. Next we had a good view of the hoppers and conveyor belts that move the olives that are trucked in to the local oil processing plant. The plant isn’t processing right now (wrong season) but we saw some local farmers on a robust tractor headed out to their olive groves. Finally, we passed the imposing sand and gravel quarry. So our conclusion is that if you want to work in Hornos, you should either be in the hospitality business or know how to run machinery.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornos-pe…
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    • Day 71

      Hornos: Around the village

      May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

      Although today was mainly devoted to tasks that needed to be done before we move on tomorrow (like buying four days’ worth of groceries - no shops in La Platera - and making our onward reservations), there were some noteworthy moments. Top of the list would be the muddy brown water pouring out of the kitchen tap this morning. I bet one of those jackhammers we’ve seen at work around town accidentally broke into the water supply line. While that was being remedied, a visit to the 16th century church showed details of the fortress churches we’ve seen in other parts of the Segura de Sierra. This one is typical of La Orden de Caballería de Santiago.

      We had originally planned that Hornos would be the end of our walking route, so I’ve been waiting for inspiration to strike as to where we could go next before meeting friends in Cordoba and then flying home from Madrid. The winning idea: moving to the tiny grouping of houses near the Embalse del Tranco called La Platera. This will give us a chance to explore a different part of the embalse and the historic cortijos nearby before we fly home in less than two weeks.
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    • Day 19

      fantastische Fahrt nach Hornos

      February 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Schnell hatten wir gefrühstückt und unsere Sachen gepackt. Auf dem Weg nach Córdoba wollen wir einen Zwischenstopp in den Bergen einschalten. Etwa 200km, zuerst auf der Autobahn, dann 120km durch gefühlte 2000 Kurven über den Pass von 1600 MüM und durch fantastische Berglandschaft landeten wir im schönen Ort Hornos. Die Fahrt war sehr abwechslungsreich. Zum Ersten gilt zu melden, dass die Strasse A 317 in hervorragendem Zustand und völlig WoMo tauglich war. Wir begegneten auf der gesamten Bergstrasse vielleicht 10 Autos, also hatten wir eine sehr gemütliche Fahrt und genügend Zeit, uns umzusehen.
      Die angebauten Mandelbäume blühten in weiss und rosa, in höheren Lagen stehen unzählige Olivenbäumen.
      An den verschiedenen Fels- und Bergformationen in allen möglichen Braun- Gelb- und Rottönen konnten wir uns kaum satt sehen. Dazu die vielen Höhlen, welche zum Teil genutzt werden. Die Aussicht in die vielen Täler und Schluchten war ebenfalls berauschend. Der Gipfel war allerdings, dass wir unverhofft auf junge Mufflons am Waldrand stiessen.
      Im Ort Hornos angekommen, parkten wir auf dem Parkplatz, der von der Gemeinde bereitgestellt wurde (VIELEN Dank !!).
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    • Day 5

      Hornos

      November 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Pretty village. Several bars but only 1 that seems to open. Lots of cats and top views. Raisa bar restaurant friendly. Good free tapas with a beer. Only serves pizza before 8. Strange sport area. 3 long thin enclosures withsome sort of distance making in run up area?

      Bizarre. Day 6. Still haven't manage to find an ice-cream.
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