Spain
La Faba

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    • Day 9

      O Cebreiro

      June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Climbing high today to the highest point on the route. Alas one of our number has decided to go home. It can't be helped but it is sad and everyone is feeling it. My feet are so sore and I have developed a cough and a coldsore. My body is breaking down! Or protesting at the very least.
      The views are spectacular. Everyone is working hard. Two new members arrived yesterday. Today is a tough intro for them. 😆
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    • Day 29

      Etappe 27 Villafrance- O Cebreiro

      October 11, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Es gab tatsächlich nicht viele Alberguen , welche ich ungern verlassen habe, aber heute morgen gehörte diese dazu . Viel zu müde um loszulaufen dachte wir, aber die Etappe heute sollte wohl die anspruchsvollste werden. Länge, sowie auch an Höhenmeter versprachen uns die Einheimischen!
      Also hieß es keine Zeit verlieren , und ab nach Galizien!

      Mit dem Übergang nach Galizien, durch das enge Tal des Flusses Valcarce, und dem Aufstieg zum legendären Bergpass von O Cebreiro.
      An der Grenze zwischen Leon und Luca war die letzte Etappe in Kastilien eine der härtesten der gesamten Pilgerreise gewesen.
      Die Grenze zwischen den beiden Provinzen und Regionen verläuft durch die Sierra de Ancares, die nur hier heimische Gewächse und eine faszinierende Landschaft birgt. Eine Vielzahl von kleinen Dörfern liegt umgeben von 100-jährigen Wäldern aus Buchen, Eichen und Kastanien. Letztere versuchten uns mutwillig regelmäßig mit Kastanienbomben zu attackieren. Diesen auszuweichen fiel uns aufgrund der ganzen Pferdeäpfel am Boden nicht ganz so einfach. Bei gefühlten 30° und strahlendem Sonnenschein fiel uns die Strecke noch schwerer als sie sowieso schon wäre

      Meine Erkältung und Janine ihre Blasenkolonien erschwerten uns den Aufstieg weiterhin. Endlich auf dem Gipfel angelangt, wurden wir mit einem wunderschönen mittelalterlichen Bergdorf entschädigt. Schnell zwei Betten gesucht eingecheckt und schon ging es essen.

      Ein leckeres Pilgermenü wartete auf uns, und zum Nachtisch gab es leckeren Honig.
      Über die freuten sich die Bienen und auch Janine.
      Nachdem eine der Bienen im Honig landete rettete Janine diese. Als allerdings 2 Minuten später unsere Teller abgeräumt wurden, wollte uns die nette Bedienung retten, und zermatschte sie mit der Gabel. Janine ihren schockierten Blick mit Tränen in den Augen werde ich so schnell nicht vergessen.

      Am Abend genossen wir noch bei zwei Tassen Tee den Blick ins Tal.
      Und tatsächlich weiß ich nicht was hier im Tee war, auf jedenfall verfielen wir von einen Lachflash in den nächsten!

      Bilanz:
      - 28,09km
      - 911 Höhenmeter
      - 645,18 km Gesamtstrecke
      Janine versucht gerade den Weltrekord auf dem Jakobsweg aufzustellen, sie hat riesige Blasenkolonien.
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    • Day 13

      La Faba - Roasted Peppers and Kindness

      October 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      I'm resting now in the hamlet of La Faba a small hamlet on the way up to O'Cebreiro. With little more than a dozen houses. The German Confraternity couldn't be more welcoming (something the English Albergue could learn from - maybe despite my intention to stop I didn't due to an officious English reception). My feet are very sore and I have a real risk of a blister. Couldn't stick my boots today (again) so it was in the sandals (and socks again). Missing fold at home, but non more than my love Emma. X
      Dinner tonight was a delight, just three of us (Cindy from the USA - a hospital pharmacologist , Franz from Germany - I think he's an international Bank Director; and me (Bill) from England - a village idiot 🤤). We passed through enroute to La Faba the hamlet of Pradela (Bierzo) and received at the Albergue Pradela the most beautiful welcome and kindness from the hosts. We had witnessed as we entered the town a small group of people roasting peppers on an open fire in front of a house. We spoke of this at the Albergue, and not only were we shown the store of peppers, tomatoes, and various fruits, we were given a piece of chestnut cake (chestnuts are in abundance and fall on pilgrims heads frequently) and a jar of their roasted peppers to eat. It's safe to say they were delicious and didn't last the impromptu lunch break. Franz is a true gem, frequently producing from his rucksack a feast of breads, cheeses, and meats. His conversations have been a privilege to participate in, thought provoking and incisive. For me he typified why German's are regarded so highly and rightly so.
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    • Day 30

      Faba

      May 25, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      We conquered the Camino Duro (the hard way) today. It's an alternate path that some pilgrims take to avoid the highway walking of the regular route and leads straight up into the mountains. It felt so much like a Santa Barbara hike along Camino Cielo that I was overcome with happiness (and, if I'm honest, a bit of homesickness). We seemed to be the only ones who opted for this more arduous trek and the quiet, isolation gave the experience a very special feeling. All told, we went 16+ miles and gained about 2,800 ft elevation.

      Tucked into the mountain was a tiny village and we stopped at Cafe Lama, which sells hazelnut bread that uses local hazelnuts, (we got extra slices to take with us). They also had kittens. 😻It began raining for the last few miles, but it was a soft rain that helped keep us cool.

      We stayed at the German hostel and when we checked in the German volunteer said there were a lot of Americans staying tonight. He then paused, and, completely deadpan, said "I wonder if you are all running from Trump." Great delivery. 👏🏻 We had dinner at the hippy, vegetarian place down there street (apparently, these two are always paired on the Camino). Then read and cuddled before falling asleep. There were no snorers in our room!!
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    • Day 13

      Villafranca del Bierzo

      October 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      I have descended into the town of Villafranca del Bierzo, lost the yellow signs and ended up nearly out the other side, nearly being run over just for fun. Villafranca del Bierzo is one of the prettiest towns on the Camino. It is full of narrow streets (along which cars speed!!) that twist and dare a pilgrim not to get lost. No matter your journey very steep climbs are obligatory.
      The feet are beginning to be an issue (my biggest fear are blisters) but it appears to toe box on my boots is a little shallow and I have two (painful) black big toe nails!! So it's on with the Teva sandals today and what a relief. Oh and no mocking me, but I wore my walking socks too. Ok...it's continuing to be amazing, scenery is awesome and lifts the spirits at every turning. I may though amputate some toes. X
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