Spain
La Puntica

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    • Day 11

      Agua Amarga to Carboneras

      March 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      This 10 km stretch is really interesting from an industrial architecture point of view. Aqua Amarga was the terminus for a mining railroad from the interior of Armeria to the Mediterranean in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Iron ore was shipped out and supplies destined for the mine were shipped in from here. Mine supplies were landed by ship and lifted up to the railway on the headland using a static engine that pulled small wagons up a very steep ramp using cables. We saw the line of the railroad when we rode our bikes along the track when we were riding the Transandalus in 2009. But we never got to see the terminus, so we were very excited today to see that our current route followed the remains of the cable ramp up to the headland (and, yes, it is definitely steep) where we saw the remains of the terminus. It must have been an incredible operation.

      The fourth photo shows Ned, having shed his own pack, kindly coming back to carry my pack up the steepest part! I was afraid I was going to topple over backwards… and it looked like a long way down.
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    • Day 12

      Carboneras port

      March 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      We are not making any forward progress on the trail for another four days while we wait for my appointment with a podiatrist here to get her opinion on a foot problem I’m having. Luckily, there is plenty to see here!

      Carboneras, population 8212, is a real working town, quite unlike the small coastal villages we’ve been walking through. We knew we were getting close yesterday when we spotted the tall chimney of the Central Térmica, and then suddenly came around the corner to see ships loading from overhead conveyors, trucks full of coal heading to the cement plant, and tankers full of olive oil leaving the oil plant. This area of the port shipped out 5.5 million tons of gypsum from the mines near Sorbas in 2022! Sandwiched between all this activity is the desalination plant. Quite an interesting 2 km for walkers.
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    • Day 13

      Carboneras: Watchtowers and Pirates

      March 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      Walking the coastal route from Almería, we have almost always been able to see watchtowers on the horizon, one on a headland in front of us, and another on a headland behind. In fact, the Ruta del Argar coincides for 100 km with the Senda Pirata, named after the towers and castles used in defense against pirate attacks during the 16th and 17th centuries. [Batería de San Felipe (Los Escullos), Castle of San Ramón (Rodalquilar), Castle of San Pedro (Las Negras), Torreón de Mesa Roldán (Agua Amarga), and more.]

      One of the worst incursions began at a cove just to the north of Carboneras where we are today. On November 28, 1573, at dawn, a large number of pirates from Morocco under the command of Al Dugâlî landed here. The 700-800 attackers were spotted, but the governor of Cuevas de Almanzora thought the report was a false alarm. As a result, the pirates were able to kill all fifty of the men in the village and take the women and children to Africa for ransom.
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    • Day 15

      Carboneras: Around town

      March 24, 2023 in Spain

      One of the nicest things about staying in a residential area of town is getting to see little bits of local life that you might otherwise miss. Our first hint of this was hearing a series of chiming beeps on Tuesday morning. Often this signals that the bread van is in the neighborhood, or that the propane truck is here to exchange full canisters for empty ones. But to our surprise when we leaned out our window, this chime was from a water truck. Neighbors began to line up with their jugs and various other containers to fill up. Maybe we’re the only ones drinking tap water around here?

      More testaments to local life past and present are scattered around town: the moving statue of strong hands weaving esparto grass; the monuments to fishermen and to the crew that filmed scenes from Lawrence of Arabia in a cove just north of here; the substantial old building that is now the House of Music; and the graceful curves carved in the sand by the beach grooming machine.
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    • Day 16

      Carboneras: A visit to the podiatrist

      March 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Today was the big day, and it turned out well. The podiatrist was knowledgeable, helpful, and kind. She diagnosed two different problems: arthritis in my toe, and fibularis tendonitis in my ankle and leg. Both are already improving. She gave me exercises to do, suggested a bit more rest, and said I should see a physiotherapist if it continues. She also suggested some changes I can make to my orthotics. The cost of all this? Free. What a kind person!

      So we will stay here until Monday morning and then continue on the trail.

      It is 74 degrees F and sunny here today. Ned is headed to the beach!
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    • Day 17

      Carboneras: Wrapping up loose ends

      March 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      Today was a day for wrapping up loose ends here in Carboneras. Taking care of my foot has, of course, thrown our planned itinerary out the window. I had made all of our reservations for Easter week, Semana Santa, long ago because it is a very busy time in Spain. Today I canceled all of our previous reservations and tried to make new ones. Of course, at this late date it is very difficult to find a place to stay in tiny villages that may have only one casa rural, but we put our heads together, studied every available option, and think we have a workable plan.

      Our clothes are washed, they’ve dried in the sunshine on the roof, last-minute groceries are bought, Ned’s hair is cut, we’ve mingled with the Sunday crowds and watched them play petanca, and we’re excited to finally be on the move again tomorrow!
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    • Day 26

      Carboneras und Umgebung

      January 16 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Das kleine Städtchen grenzt an den Naturpark Cabo de Gata mit seiner kargen und trockenen Landschaft sowie zahlreichen Badebuchten. An der Straße Richtung Mojácar liegt das winzige Dorf Sopalmo mit seinem schönen bunten Blumenschmuck.
      Mit sonnigen 20° war heute auch richtiges T-Shirt Wetter, nur die Bilder und Wetterberichte von zu Hause lassen uns etwas frösteln.
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