Spain
Santillana

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55 travelers at this place

  • Jun13

    You'd think we would have learned?!

    June 13, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After 2 nights in Santander (big city, 1 million people), we had a short walk yesterday to Boo de Pielagos, arriving about noon. We were staying in an adorable little albergue — maybe the nicest we’ve seen — and the owners were still busy cleaning and preparing for guests. We dropped off our packs and sauntered up the street to the local restaurant.

    Many Spanish restaurants offer a “menú del día,” menú of the day — 2 courses plus dessert and wine or water, for somewhere between €9-15. This is the kind of food the Spanish eat, not really geared to pilgrims. And after about 3:00 pm, the menu is finished and there’s not much available till 8:00 or later (when we want to sleep). So we were feeling pretty proud of ourselves for having timed our lunch just right.

    We chose our first courses (lentils for me, leeks with ham and sauce for John). The waiter then gave us choices for the main course: stuffed chicken breast, pork with potatoes, or fried fish. Ah, fried fish for John!! But just like the “calamare,” we didn’t ask any follow-up questions. So when the waiter brought John’s fish, well... see the photo below. Whole fish, all curled up and looking like something in a natural history museum. But John was a trouper, said it really wasn’t bad, and he ate most of it. Oh well, another lesson learned!

    Nice walking the last 2 days, but still unseasonably chilly and spitting rain occasionally. We’re feeling fine physically, but I think I’m getting a cold from walking in the rain. I get no sympathy, of course!
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  • Day10

    Cornfields and cliffs

    September 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today’s KMs - 22kms
    Total KMs - 181kms
    Total blisters - 5 + foot rashes (still!) and a bung ankle

    What a difference a day makes. We had an amazing morning walking out of Guemes headed for Santander. Yesterday was behind us and we had beautiful cornfields to the left and stunning coastal cliffs on the other side. The cliffs ended with a 3km walk across the beach at Somo which was a chance to cool our sore feet.

    The ferry from Somo to Santander was equally as good with beautiful views onto the city. Santander was so much more than I expected with beautiful architecture and cafes along the port. What a great start to the day.

    Things went a little south after that and the elusive yellow arrow from yesterday turned into the conflicting yellow arrow. So what happens when there are yellow arrows pointing in different directions and you pick the wrong one? Well, more walking on car roads! This time 7kms on a main bitumen road in the hot afternoon sun 😔... it’s now a love/ hate relationship with yellow arrows!

    But we made it finally into Santillana del mar which is a stunning little town which is so beautiful that many movies have been filmed here. So, we’re off now to explore it.
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  • Day98

    Boo de Piélagos - Santillana del Mar

    September 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Eine zweigeteilte Etappe. Der Weg war wirklich nicht schön, fast nur Straße, teilweise stark befahren, die Müllabfuhr hat uns verfolgt...
    Aber es waren nur 20 km, und kurz vor Ende das erste Highlight: Morgens hatte ich noch gesagt, ich würde gerne mal eine spanische Fiesta miterleben. Mittags hörten wir dann Feuerwerk, und tatsächlich wurde im Dörfchen Camplengo San Cipriano geehrt, mit traditioneller Musik und gemeinsamem Essen. Also haben wir uns ein Bier und ein paar Happen gegönnt, bevor es dann nach Santillana ging, in die für mich bisher schönste Herberge. Noch bis vor ein paar Jahren ein Konvent des Clarissen-Ordens, wird das Anwesen jetzt genutzt, um arbeitslose Menschen vor Ort zu beschäftigen. Eine tolle Atmosphäre, ein traumhafter Garten, ein Dreibettzimmer, gutes Essen... Dazu noch ein Pilgersegen - ein Gesprächskreis mit einer Nonne aus dem Nachbarort, ein sehr emotionaler Moment, ohne dass ich genau festmachen könnte, woran das lag. 9 Menschen aus 5 Nationen, jeder mit seinem eigenen Päckchen, die zusammen lesen und singen (und beten, wer wollte) - einfach bewegend. Der Abend traf irgendwie den Kern des Caminos, wie ich mir ihn vorgestellt hatte. Ganz toll!Read more

  • Day10

    Santillana del Mar

    July 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We walked around the old town of Santillana del Mar this morning. It is characteristic of old Spain. The buildings are all 500 years old and it is like going back in time to the Medieval period. We expected a band of medieval knights to canter around the cobbled street corner at any moment.

    We found a museum dedicated to the Spanish Inquisition and the methods of torture used were not only explained in vivid detail, but the actual implements were on display. It is staggering to see the cruelty that was instigated by the church against accused heretics. If we lived then we would be on the receiving end quite likely.

    The old church bells rang forth each hour and the roosters were crowing and the horses were saddled. It was a real taste of old Spain. If you are in northern Spain, do now miss this delightful village.
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  • Day18

    Hübsches Santillana del Mar

    September 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Nur leider völlig mit Touristen überlaufen. Schrecklich. Als ich ankam wurde gerade ein Reisebus ausgeschüttet und die Stadt regelrecht mit Touristen geflutet. Als Pilger wird man dann ziemlich beäugt. 🙄Read more

  • Day128

    119. Etappe: Santillana del Mar

    November 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Na ja, eine Großstadt zu verlassen ist leider nie besonders schön. Leider änderte sich das die ganzen 35 km kaum. Ausschließlich Straße oder Fußweg, durch Industrie- und Gewerbegebiete. Da war die Motivation leider nicht so groß und so raste ich durch die nicht ganz so schöne Landschaft. Das Wetter hielt tapfer durch, zwar spürte ich noch die Reste vom Sturm letzte Nacht, aber es begleitete mich Sonnenschein.
    Zum Ende freut ich mich dann um so mehr, als es zwar über Straße aber immerhin durch mehr und mehr ländliche Gegenden ging. Und das Beste kam zum Schluss: Santillana del Mar. Was für eine hübsche mittelalterliche Stadt! Und die heutige Herberge passt vollkommen ins Bild. Es gibt ausschließlich 2-Bettzimmer mit Fenster, eigenem Waschbecken, Heizung und sauberem Bettzeug. Und da keine Hochsaison ist, habe ich auch ein Zimmer für mich ganz alleine 🎉 Da freut sich das Pilgerherz! Im hauseigenem Fairtrade-Laden habe ich mir dann noch ein Gläschen Wein aus der Region gegönnt und den Abend entspannt ausklingen lassen.
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  • Day14

    About 31kms to Santillana del Mar

    September 25, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We made it! This was a day of contrasts: mind-blowing coastal views, a calm forest trail and an awful lot of road-walking. It's good to have arrived. We've checked into a a cute little pension - Hospedaje Angelica. Nice double room for just €36.

    Looking forward to exploring the town and getting some dinner later.

    More details to follow.
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  • Day14

    Santillana de Mar

    September 21, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Another find through Campercontact. And yet another historic village to explore. Very popular with tourists but well worth taking the time to explore. Lots to see here including museums and no lack of Cafes and restaurants. Wishing we had a bit more time here but we have a Ferry ⛴ to catchRead more

  • Day18

    Sontonio, SANTANDER, Santilla del. Mar

    September 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    This is a beautiful lille place. No words to aptly describe a medieval village. It was enchanting to arrive here yesterday evening after my second day of 40 km walks. I don't set out everyday with a plan, I just follow the arrows. However that was a bit of a wobbly plan the day before when I apparently followed the less well marked trail along the coast.
    I left Sontonio to the smell of fish offal being pureed into pet food. There were large vrates of fish stacked up along the pier, well fish bit really, and when I asked man what it was for he showed me the big grinder and explained the process. I was very appreciative of the information, but blimey, the smell.
    Anyway I walked briefly with an English woman who had rented her house out and was walking all about the world. She had me in hysterics telling me about using the bathroom in various hostels etc, and how you just let go of your inhibitions. Then she said ",I have to wee," she dropped her pack and her shorts and proceeded to do so! I walked on.
    The day was long, hot and magnificent. However a was tired and hungry and was distracted from that buy the scenery. Cliffs, huge beaches and big waves. However there were no other walkers about and I was hoping for a "fletcha amarilla " (,yellow arrow) to show me the way when out of the blue on a cliff above a beach full of bronzed naked bodies I came upon an ice cream truck!!, I talked to myself as I got closer, in case it was a mirage, but through theagic of the Camino it was real. I got ice cream, direction, energy and joy beyond compare as I continued on my way. A boat trip across the bay, in the evening sun, and with directions from my favorite tour guides, senior men, I got to the hostel after 10 hours of walking. To end it all I was the last one to check in so I had a room to myself, with a bathroom and coffee and bread for breakfast.
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  • Day9

    Driving through north-west Spain

    July 6, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We drove about a third of the way across the top of Spain this afternoon and evening. We were looking at spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay on our right as we drove. The countryside of very green and hilly. It is not flat and dry as we typically think of Spain; not at all. Even though it is summer, the country is green and lush in this northern region. There is agriculture aplenty and lush crops everywhere.

    The roads are excellent. Freeway all the way, although there are quite a few tolls, so we need cash or card at the ready at all times. Unfortunately there was a truck that had burst into flames on the freeway and it causedi a 2-3 hour delay. Not what we were hoping for. So we arrived at our destination at about 9pm instead of 6pm.

    We are staying tonight in a five-star hotel called Casa del Marques in a very old Spanish village, Santillana del Mar. The whole town is from the 14th century. They have kept cars out of the town for the most part. The whole town is Heritage listed. It is the Spain you imagine in your ideal view of this country. Stone buildings and terracotta tiles. Arched doorways, churches with bell towers and cobbled streets and squares. It is an incredibly magical place. I went for a couple of hours wandering as the light dwindled and look forward to more fully exploring the town tomorrow.

    Our destination tomorrow is Santiago de Compostela, on the northwest corner of Spain, but we will make the most of the morning to explore this town before heading off on our journey westwards.

    I sat with a man in the lounge tonight before venturing out. He was about 60 and watching the world cup. He told me he was from Israel. He was born in Israel. His parents escaped from Poland just before the war. He was born in Israel. All his grandparents were killed in the war. He spoke a lot about his life in Israel. His aunty married an Australian soldier who was posted to Israel during the British mandate and married him and lived in Adelaide. His parents disowned her and never spoke to her again for betraying their Israeli life which they had gained at great cost. His wife came later and she used to be a teacher. They have one son in New York in the real estate game, and another son in Israel who is into IT. They lost their daughter at 17 to Lupus about 25 years ago and it is still raw for them. The man was a bit vague about what he did for a job but he was in Spain organising ships on the coast for Israel. He is a typical Jew with a big deep voice and very sharp and incisive. I would love to have spoken to him and his wife, Itti, for longer. I gathered that he grew up through the kibbutz movement. He has a friend from South Africa who went to Melbourne and is now a Principal of a Jewish school there - his surname is Reuben. I said I would look out for him in case our paths crossed in the future. Who knows, with school principals. It's a small world.
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Santillana, 39330

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