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    • Day 51

      Portomarin (23km / 675.3km)

      June 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      What a difference a day makes! We’ve been used to small groups and mostly walking alone unless you pass or are passed. Today there are pilgrims everywhere, many excited because it was their first day from Sarria.
      We walked with Louise, the Dutch lady we met a couple of days ago and she loves her coffee and a smoke. If she had her way she would stop at every place but we had a long day ahead. We had a half breakfast before leaving early at 7 and stopped for first breakfast 4.5km down the road. The queues really tested our patience. The food was good but we stayed much longer than we wanted to and the coffee wasn’t worth having so we stopped again 5km later. The crowd had died down a bit.
      At the 100km to go mark local had a stamp to commemorate the event and he helped by telling us with all the pilgrims on the road now this stage was the “Camino of Tolerance”.
      We walked longer than normal for lunch because of a highly recommended place called Mercadoiro and were not disappointed! Beautifully fresh salad, tender pulpa and a Sangria before our 5km walk to Portomarin. It was a long day from 7:15 to 3:45 and we were hot and tired at the end but in good shape physically and feet all good too!
      All these events distracted from some lovely scenery and villages.
      We walked around the town, found a beer and then went to an Italian place for dinner with Louise. Yummy pizza and lasagna with sangria. Tomorrow morning we will spend time in Portomarin before our short walk.
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      Traveler  You deserve all that gorgeous food and drinks. Well done

      Traveler  Yes we do deserve it! 🍺

      Traveler  Yum

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    • Day 50

      Sarria 13.1km / 652.3km

      June 1 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      It’s funny how the shorter walks can be more mentally challenging! Maybe we’re just not as well prepared as we are for a long day (like tomorrow). The beginning of the walk had steep uphill on muddy and slippery paths, so there was no gentle start and there were so many short up and downs that it was hard to get into a rhythm quickly. The map wasn’t quite right either so we weren’t 100% sure we were on the right track but got there …
      We walked in a group of 6 with a lot of chatting and a couple of stops for coffee which was quite entertaining including a Dutch lady with a lovely sense of humour and a young German girl.
      The environment was peaceful along the river with the sounds of birds all day, and through farming “hamlets”. Couldn’t quite call them villages! We eventually arrived in Sarria, our stop for the night at Albergue Pedra, run by a very friendly host. Sarria is the official start of the Camino for those who want to do the least distance and still receive a Compestella certificate of completion at the end. From Sarria we need to receive two stamps per day if we want to receive our Compestella. So Sarria is packed with many new pilgrims, easily spotted by their clean shoes and tidy clothes.
      We had a nap for the first time before heading into the city for our main meal, a walk around the city, mass (with many new pilgrim faces), a late desert and then back home.
      The food is getting seriously good, especially the seafood and veggies! They say a picture is worth a thousand words so see below!
      We’re still grateful for Jane’s feet! All good!
      And I heard yesterday that my cousin Barbara and her husband Steve will be starting in Sarria on Monday and arriving in Santiago on Friday - the same day as us. Buen Camino and see you Friday!
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      Traveler  Seafood looks delicious but I am still dreaming of your tostados with tomato chilli paste and jambon ! My kind of food 😋

      Traveler  You are easy to please Melissa! You could to both on the same day

      Traveler  Just so amazing that you have reached 652ks - not much longer now and meeting so many pilgrims must be good fun.

      Traveler  Yes we are so close now. It is a bit strange to be within reach. At the start it seemed sooooooo far away

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    • Day 40

      Triacastela to Sarria

      May 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      I had a great night’s sleep - everyone was happy to have the window open and what a difference it makes to have fresh air in a crowded dormitory! The bar opened early so I was able to have breakfast before starting. This really helps because ibuprofen is keeping me going and you can’t have it on an empty stomach. Unfortunately it wears off after about 4 hours and it’s too soon for the next dose. So the last bit starts to become painful again, but manageable.

      It was a very long climb out of Triacastela and a very steep descent towards Sarria. But today was one of the prettiest walks so far. It was like walking through a rainforest, lots of shade and mossy banks. Really beautiful. We also went through lots of tiny villages where the people have dairy farms. There weren’t any services for about 7 kms until a vending machine suddenly appeared in a very unlikely place. A Coke and a packet of chips has become a regular snack. And then around the next bend was a donativo stall with fresh hard boiled eggs and fruit. You never know what to expect. We were very lucky with the weather as the roads in Sarria were very wet but we had only the slightest drizzle. I have a private room tonight so will have an early night as tomorrow will be another hilly day.

      El Bordon de la Casa Batallon
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      Traveler  Di you are doing so so well. When I read your posts it is just like I am there with you. You are nearly there!!!! We will all be with you in spirit every step. Sending love hugs and prayers your way 😍🙏😘


      Narelle Campbell  That is a pretty walk. I remember enjoying that day. So close now! 🤗


      Traveler  in 2017 there was an Australia chap originally from Wenyworth, country NSW who live/owned this donativo stop. He asked if I had come across some other Australian friends of his family!


      Traveler  nice collection of sellos

    • Day 36

      Tag 36 von Triacastela nach Sarria

      June 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Der heutige Tag begann mit der Entscheidung neue Rute des Jakobsweges oder alte.
      Ich habe mich dann für die alte Rute entschieden was im Nachhinein perfekt für mich war.
      Es war zwar der schwierigere Weg.
      Aber genau den sollte ich wohl gehen.
      Nach etwa einer Stunde kam ich an einer kleinen Kapelle vorbei.
      In der ein Man versuchte ein Surfbrett an die Decke zu hängen.
      Ich half ihm natürlich und zu zweit schafften wir es auch.
      Wie sich später erzählte war er aus England und war 2005 den Camino gegangen.
      Als er wieder zuhause war entschied er sich alles aufzugeben und auf dem Camino zu leben.
      Er lebt davon Bilder zu malen und andere Gegenstände zu bemalen.
      So wie den Pilgern gegen eine Spende einen einzigartigen Stempel zu malen.
      Für mich gab es den Stempel gratis und im Anschluss Beteten wir noch gemeinsam.
      Diese Momente sind einfach unbezahlbar.
      Der sonstige Weg war wieder anstrengend aber wunderschön.
      Ich genieße jeden Tag auf diesem außergewöhnlichen Weg.
      Heute abend ist um 19 Uhr Pilger Messe was ich mir natürlich nicht entgehen lasse.
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      Traveler  Wunderschönes Bild in deinem Pilgerpass. Das sind Erinnerungen die du nie vergisst. Mach weiter so.

    • Day 56

      Rest day in Sarria

      May 22 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Another rest day today, sort of by accident when making the itinerary, but worked well because R and R had had 2 quite big walks after arriving and another non walking day was quite welcome. And Sarria is a pleasant town, quite busy as many arrivals by bus and train, ready to start a camino here. We decided to have an excursion to Samos which has a famous huge monastery…it is on an alternate camino route between Triacastela and Sarria, but a bit longer, so we have never taken that route! Quite a short taxi ride, and well worth it…you have to take a tour to see it, and it was in Spanish, but a very nice guide, and she sometimes answered questions in English, or explained things…it is an enormous Benedictine monastery dating from the 12th century or the very beginning even earlier. And Samos is another rather nice town..lots of veg gardens - growing cabbages (the ones on stalks) and potatoes, and fruit trees. We had a drink in a hotel while waiting for the taxi back, and were given a complimentary tapas of paella! Just hit the right spot!

      Now some downtime - I found the bus station, and there is a bus to Portomarin, our next destination, at 2.15 tomorrow…I should arrive at much the same time as the walkers. Amr and I had a drink and booked the restaurant for dinner tonight…don’t know how busy it will be, but they seemed to think it was a good idea…and this is a very popular strip of restaurants along the river, just near our hotel.

      Just back from dinner…a great meal…Amr and I shared a big piece of beef that we had seen someone having at (late) lunch time, and it was excellent…thick and just done au point as we love it…a ferritin boost! I think I needed that. It’s starting to get dark, at almost 10 pm, so it must be bedtime!
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      Traveler  Looks spectacular

      Traveler  I’ve always loved cloisters

      Traveler  The monastery

      Traveler  That wonderful monastery almost made me take back to my choir boy childhood!

    • Day 22

      Into Samos and Sarria

      May 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      We took the turn off to Samos to visit the 6th century monastery town. That meant 3k into Triacastela (three castles). Didn’t see any castles there though. Ruined? 🤷‍♀️ After that it was 14k through the greenest of green forests and farmland, punctuated only by crumbling ghost towns every now and then. Rolling hills, we crossed over a stream several times, plenty of bird life around and we picnicked on a stone wall as there were no facilities anywhere nearby. Today out of Samos and 15k walking through the loveliest farmland. Occasionally the fragrance of wild mint, loads of wildflowers, tiny little birds singing sweetly and crossing over the running creek a few times. It really was lovely but again nowhere to stop for coffee breaks. We snacked on food we had in our packs for just this kind of a day. We shared an orange and some nuts and a little chocolate.Then it was into Sarria for a meal and off for an afternoon nap in our apartment. Rest day tomorrow in Sarria. Today was luckily not so many kilometres (15) but with the fatigue built up over the past 20 or so days we are definitely feeling it. Then we tackle the remaining 116k into Santiago. 🇪🇸👏🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️💪🥾Read more

      Traveler  Glad to hear a rest day’s a’comin’!!!

      Traveler  Beautiful ❤️❤️

      Traveler  Looks like the Tour de Mont Blanc

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    • Day 40

      Filloval - Samos - Sarria

      May 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Porridge, love it! Das Frühstück eine Wohltat für das Bäuchlein, kein Toast oder Tortilla selbst der Bocadilla heute war für mich nicht attraktiv genug.
      Ich laufe los, es ist noch sehr kühl und grau, nach dem gestrigen Wasserfall, Blitz und Donner kam ich durchnässt in Fillobal an. Die Bar neben der Albergue eine Oase mit herrlichen Gerichten. So habe ich eine vegane Lasagne genossen.

      Ich denke heute gehört zu einer der schönsten Wanderungen, der Weg nach Tricastela ist wie in einem Bilderbuch. Es regnet richtig, fleißig durchstapfen, Socken und Füße pitschnass, das märchenhafte Gallizien bezaubert. Ankunft in Sarria, heute haben Beatriz und ich ein Appartement gebucht mitten im Zentrum, nicht schlafen in Papierbettwäsche, wie schön! Selber kochen, Fisch eingekauft, Fläschchen Wein, die Heizung ist an und eine Waschmaschine ist auch vorhanden, ich freu mich!
      Die letzten 129 Kilometer ab morgen. 😊
      Dann fängt Disneycamino an. Die ersten Feiertrüppchen trinken sich warm, junge fröhliche Spanier die die letzten Kilometer feiernd bis Santiago laufen, dafür muss man 2 Stempel am Tag abholen.
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      Traveler  wunderbar... entspannt und voller Ruhe


      Traveler  Stefanie, das macht ihr in Schottland auch ✔️🍀🍀♥️👍🏼viel Spaß!


      Traveler  Liebe Jacqueline, Porridge ist ne schnell verfügbare Energiequelle. 👍 deine Berichte und Eindrücke so unterhaltsam .. man reist quasi mit. Freue mich auf die letzten KM . LG 😘😘


      Traveler  ♥️🤍♥️

      2 more comments
    • Day 30

      Day 30: Triacastela a Sarria

      May 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Two routes today, and two options. I always find I struggle with this, as I never know which path to take. Perhaps a bit reflective of me in real life?

      After a few cervezas watching the match the night before, and having ingratiated myself with a new Camino family, I leave alone and feel many emotions. Perhaps a little lonely? I start down the route to Sansol, where there is a monastery. But something makes me stop, and I turn around and go the countryside route to San Xil instead. Just as I retrace my steps I run into Lorna, Iraxe and Sophie from the night before. So now, I walk with a group! Maybe the Camino does provide?

      The walk truly is beautiful today, traversing countryside paths and by farms, all green and fresh.
      I keep a good pace and walk with Lolo, a Spaniard from Extremadura who is a part of this Camino family. We enjoy a good conversation about work and life and balance, and the short walk of 18km is soon over as we arrive into Sarria.

      A significant point, as this means I reach the last 100km of the route. I feel strange as I enter the city, a bit lost and a bit alone. I check into my albergue and then I receive a message from Lolo to meet the group down at the waterfront for octopus - a typical gallegan dish!

      This ends up being a really fun evening, with far too many chupitos and beers and not enough food! But I really enjoyed my time. Iraxe gave me a red string bracelet, to signify a bond that is unbreakable, and I am an honorary member of the family, even if just for a little while.
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      Traveler  Don’t reach ahead and fear the empty space. Step into it and embrace. You belong in whatever space you find yourself.


      Traveler  you are doing brilliantly xxxxGrandma

    • Day 24

      Caldo Gallego

      November 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      A type of vegetable soup typical for this area.
      I had my first bowl today after a wet walk into the mist. That restaurant grows their own veggies used for the soup right behind the kitchen. How cool is that?
      A dog came along for about 8 km before he had a snack as well, turned around and walked home.
      Made my day.
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      Traveler  I did meet a lot of fog???


      Traveler  What is this monument?


      Traveler  A break coffee ?


      Traveler  I believe you are very very tired

    • Day 43

      The Compostela

      October 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      I took the train from Lugo to Sarria, the beginning of the last section of the Camino Frances. I had a date with Jill, my Camino Angel from way back in Cirauqui who was the stranger who gave me a little blue pill. for my swollen feet. Jill finished her Camino journey in Sarria today so we had dinner and celebrated the path and the way.

      Both Jill and I were much more interested in our journey's themselves, in the towns and villages we tramped through, rather than our destination. Jill had planned all along to end her journey in Sarria because Sarria is where the Camino can change. It is where hundreds of Spanish start their Camino and it is known for being crowded and being different.

      The Spanish start in Sarria because the requirement to be able to officially complete a Camino is to walk 100km to Santiago. There are many Camino routes to Santiago but of them all, Sarria to Santiago is the most popular. If you walk the distance when you arrive in Santiago you can be awarded your Compostela, the officially certified evidence of the completion of your pilgrimage. I think it absolves you from your sins, an added bonus for some.

      When walking the Camino, you are given a passport or Credential in which you can collect stamps. These stamps are proof that you have walked the Camino. Prior to Sarria you require one stamp a day but after Sarria two stamps are needed to convince the officials that you walked, not taxied or bussed.

      The name Compostela derives simply from the city of Santiago de Compostela but Santiago is St James in Spanish and the Compostela refers to a field of stars guiding the original farmer to the discovery of the bones of St James, now entombed in the Cathedral in Santiago.

      So even though I've walked about 350km, I don't currently qualify for a Compostela. If I want one, I have to walk ever step from here to Santiago.
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       ❤️ [Debby]


    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Sarria, サリア, Сарриа, Саррія, 萨里亚

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