Spain
Segura de la Sierra

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    • Day 56

      La Puerta de Segura

      October 17 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Der heutige Tag ging ziemlich beschissen los: nächtliche Schauer weckten mich, als es durch die Belüftung des Zeltes regnete, frühs alles nass und kalt, die nassen Sandwege unbefahrbar und meine Vordergepäckträger Halterung war wieder gebrochen. Diesmal baute ich breitere Schellen ein, die meine Familie mir mitgebracht hatte.
      Danach ging zur Besichtigung der Kleinstadt Alcaraz. Da es nicht allzu viel zu sehen gab, war ich schnell wieder auf der Straße und musste wieder mit starkem Wind und ständigen Schauern kämpfen. Zumindest traf ich noch Andy aus England - der einzige andere Radfahrer den ich heute sah. Er fährt ca. eine Woche durch Spanien und wir unterhielten uns ein wenig.
      Irgendwann bog ich in das größte Naturschutzgebiet Spaniens "Parque Natural de la Sierra de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas" ein. Der Wind ließ nach und auch der Regen sollte für die nächsten Tage vorbei sein...
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    • Day 71

      Hornos: Around the village

      May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

      Although today was mainly devoted to tasks that needed to be done before we move on tomorrow (like buying four days’ worth of groceries - no shops in La Platera - and making our onward reservations), there were some noteworthy moments. Top of the list would be the muddy brown water pouring out of the kitchen tap this morning. I bet one of those jackhammers we’ve seen at work around town accidentally broke into the water supply line. While that was being remedied, a visit to the 16th century church showed details of the fortress churches we’ve seen in other parts of the Segura de Sierra. This one is typical of La Orden de Caballería de Santiago.

      We had originally planned that Hornos would be the end of our walking route, so I’ve been waiting for inspiration to strike as to where we could go next before meeting friends in Cordoba and then flying home from Madrid. The winning idea: moving to the tiny grouping of houses near the Embalse del Tranco called La Platera. This will give us a chance to explore a different part of the embalse and the historic cortijos nearby before we fly home in less than two weeks.
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    • Day 56

      Orcera: A maritime province?

      May 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

      In all of our many visits to Spain, only one village museum was ever open when it said it would be. Most were permanently closed. Today was no exception, but a kind employee in the ayuntamiento unlocked the door for us, and said that if we could work our way around the cardboard planetarium the school kids were constructing, we were welcome to visit.

      The museum is devoted to explaining why a landlocked province like Jaén was named a maritime province in 1751. It turns out that the Royal Navy admired the straight, tall black pines as much as we do. In the interest of building ships to sail to and from Spain’s new colonies in the Americas, the forests of the Sierra de Segura were “terribly sheared by the intensive felling of their wood.” ‘Gancheros’ then drove rafts made up of thousands of trunks 600 km down the Guadalquivir to Sevilla. After the demand for wood for sailing ships dwindled, the trees continued to be felled to be used as sleepers for the new Spanish railway network. Good thing the Parque Natural finally came into being, so there are some trees left!
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    • Day 53

      La Hueta to Orcera: May Day

      May 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

      The May Day holiday must surely have added to the number of walkers and cyclists we met on the trail today - maybe 20 or more. So far we’ve not met any other walkers with overnight size backpacks though, and only two cyclists with panniers.

      The trail to Orcera alternated between a small paved road and a narrow path through the woods. We saw some signs of last night’s half-hour of rain: mud across the road and bright green moss, plumped up by the long-awaited water. As we got closer to Orcera, we spotted the castle that towers over Segura de la Sierra (where we are going next) and three Muslim towers that we will explore while we are here.

      It was hard to leave La Hueta. Our three days there plus the two days at Puente Honda have given us a real feel for what a subsistence lifestyle in these villages must have been like. Now we are in a big town (population 2000), amazed to be back in the land of grocery stores and fast internet. No grocery stores open today though, due to the holiday, so we were lucky to find an open restaurant where we had heaping platefuls of meat, potatoes, and eggs for five euros each. No fruit or vegetables to be seen, and we speculated on how many inches of arteries we were clogging up, but consoled ourselves with the memory of the leftover red pepper we had for breakfast and our usual mandarin orange break while walking.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-hueta-…
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    • Day 55

      Orcera: Linarejos loop

      May 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

      Puente Honda: population, four. La Hueta: population, one. Linarejos: population, one. Three villages all under the watchful eye of the peak of Peñalta; all thriving aldeas for hundreds of years; all now with year-round populations approaching zero.

      When we saw Linarejos from afar the day we walked from La Hueta to Orcera, we knew we had to find a way to see it up close. Its mountainside perch combined with its striking terracing were irresistible.

      Our route today followed the Río Orcera up into the heavily forested ridges, with most of the river’s water diverted into acequias. We came to two junctions with the GR 247, and then the aldea itself with its wonderful views, its clean, neat streets, and its terraced orchards. At first we thought it was deserted, but the lone resident came out and chatted with us. He said he loves living alone there because it is so peaceful. On summer weekends, as many as 18 people come to stay in their second homes, but during the week he and his two dogs have the place to themselves. He likes winter even better than summer because then nobody comes on weekends. Winter used to bring up to a meter of snow to Linarejos, but now there is none. He knows well the 86 year old woman who is the only full-time resident of La Hueta, and says she walks all the way to Orcera to get her groceries (!) and gets a ride home from the police.

      The walk up to the aldea passes Orcera’s public recreation site with a huge swimming pool and various sports areas, all quiet on the way up, but filled with enthusiastic pickle ball players and workmen sanding and staining picnic tables on the way back.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/orcera-li…
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    • Day 66

      Hornos de Segura

      May 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      We are now in the village of Hornos de Segura, where the houses are balanced on overhanging rocks and the night skies are celebrated for their lack of light pollution. In fact, we spent several enjoyable hours at the castle which has been turned into an astronomical center housing a planetarium and offering nighttime telescope tours of the stars.

      We were really looking forward to walking here, but decided it was still beyond the capability my foot and knee have recovered to. So we made use of the local taxi, and over the next few days, we’ll walk whatever parts seem reasonable.
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    • Day 70

      Hornos: Peña del Águila

      May 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      We managed to sneak a quick walk in before the predicted thunder and lightning started. Quite dramatic- but none of the predicted rain yet.

      Peña del Águila is a ridge that gives good views of the olive groves that surround the embalse, each with its own special colors in the soil - red, blue, green, and grey. The last ten meters to the peña were unfortunately inaccessible due to a locked gate, but since we were already up to within a meter of the maximum elevation, it didn’t really matter. The handy boulders nearby made a comfortable spot for a mandarin orange break.

      We are always speculating about how a person could make a living in these small villages. The walk today gave us some hints. First we passed a man working down in a manhole on the water system. He joins the other five men we see every day using jackhammers to dig up areas of the town streets that we assume are over waterlines. Next we had a good view of the hoppers and conveyor belts that move the olives that are trucked in to the local oil processing plant. The plant isn’t processing right now (wrong season) but we saw some local farmers on a robust tractor headed out to their olive groves. Finally, we passed the imposing sand and gravel quarry. So our conclusion is that if you want to work in Hornos, you should either be in the hospitality business or know how to run machinery.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornos-pe…
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    • Day 69

      Hornos: Salt pans

      May 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      Today we saw salt pans (salinas)!!! We’re 300 kilometers inland and there we were, standing by evaporation ponds where salt was recovered! Not the big, huge, industrial-sized evaporation ponds like we saw at Cabo de Gata, but still, we never expected to see salt pans so far from the ocean. There must be a spring nearby that supplies saline water.

      It’s fantastic when you have an A+ walk near the end of a trip, especially when you didn’t have any particularly high expectations for the day. We started out on a Wikiloc track that would take us down to the level of the reservoir and then loop back up. At about the halfway point, I remembered reading about salt pans in the area. But where were they? No waypoints on our track indicated salinas. I checked the other tracks I had saved for the area. No luck. Giving up on finding them, we just enjoyed the butterflies and the flowers. At one point, I just happened to look backwards into a brushy area…and there they were, almost hidden in the reeds. What a stroke of good luck.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornos-sa…
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    • Day 68

      Hornos: GR 247 toward Capellania

      May 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

      The GR 247 from Hornos to the aldea of Capellanía starts out winding through terraced olive groves north of town. They are a reminder that the prized local olive oil has its own denomination: Denominación de Origen de Aceite de Oliva Virgen Extra Sierra de Segura. If only the bottles weren’t too big and heavy to carry in backpacks! The trail then narrows and winds deep into the forested area below Yelmo Chico. On the way back, we met a local man out walking his dog who pointed out a soaring eagle, one of a pair that nests on the nearby cliff. He said the buitres that nest closer to Yelmo can be seen about 2 pm after the air has warmed up.

      Back in town, it was market day. Beautiful dark red peppers, cucumbers, and tomatoes made our lunchtime salad, and mushrooms spruced up our chicken and mashed potatoes.

      This afternoon‘s task: search for a way to walk to a village with bus service.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/above-hor…
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    • Day 67

      Hornos: Arroyo de los Molinos

      May 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      With the tempting name of the arroyo, we expected to see some mills today, and maybe we did get a glimpse of them, but we were so far above the river, there was no way to tell if the roofs we were seeing were atop old mills or modern houses. We did have a great time exploring old fountains and what must be summer swimming holes, though. The biggest marvel of the day was the steep angle of the olive groves. They must have incredible tractors to be able to reach those trees.

      Today we ran into a new component of the shrinking rural population problem: Hornos - which still has enough people to support two tiny grocery shops, a bakery, two restaurants, and several bars - evidently does not have enough people to hang onto its previous bus service. The internet still shows two buses a day to the provincial capital, but both the ayuntamiento and the host of our casa rural have told us there is no bus service anymore. Hmm. That was going to be our connection for our return to Madrid next week as Hornos is the end of our planned waking route. Good thing there is still taxi service here!

      We did our first wash using a washing machine in our ten weeks here and managed to decipher the unfamiliar symbols just fine. The lucky clothes had a great view of the peak of Yelmo as they dried!

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornos-ca…
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    Segura de la Sierra

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