Spain
Segura de la Sierra

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    • Day 62

      Moralejos: Los Riscos

      May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      The cliffs and crags (riscos) above Moralejos are striking. They are reachable by a detour off the GR 247, and contain ruins dating from Roman times. As we climbed up to them today, I kept a running total in my head of how many spots were precarious enough on the way up that I needed Ned’s help to get across them, knowing that they would seem even more difficult on the way down. When I got up to four, I prudently decided that was my limit. Ned went another quarter of a kilometer with another 100 meters of altitude gain (yup, it was steep!) and was able to clearly see the birds of prey that nest here (los buitres) soaring overhead. By continuing on the GR, we were able to find a very comfortable way down with some great views of Yelmo and no precipitous drop-offs.

      Talking with Beatriz this afternoon, it turns out she is the sole year-round resident of Moralejos! The shepherd we saw yesterday comes just for the day; he lives elsewhere. So Moralejos joins La Hueta and Linarejos as villages we have been to on this trip that have a population of one.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/moralejos…
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    • Day 72

      Magnifique Cozorla à Rio Borosa

      November 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Wow !! J'adore Cozorla! Un petit village de 7000 habitants en plein cœur des montagnes et près de plusieurs ruines de forteresse et de châteaux. C'est sincèrement mon coup de cœur, mais il faut aller au-delà du village pour que ça en vaille encore plus la peine. Dans le village, plusieurs randonnées y sont le point de départ.

      Nous décidons de faire une marche, mais rendu près du point des départs des randonnées, on décide de faire une rando qui longe la rivière de Cerezuela. C'est très très joli! Mais il y a un moment avec les enfants où on doit rebrousser chemin, car Félix se réveille et on n’a pas prévu le coup pour... Manger !!! Comme un point bien important !!!

      C'est alors qu'un restaurant apparaît sous nos yeux... On ne s'attendait, mais vraiment pas à ça. Dans les montagnes loin de tout! Alors on s'y arrête question de manger et de se redonner des forces.

      Après le dîner, on retourne dans le village. On est dimanche... Je ne m'y ferai jamais, mais toutes les boutiques sont fermées. Alors c'est un peu plate. On décide de reprendre le chemin et d'aller un peu plus loin dans le parc national. Nous avons donc arrêté à Barosa. On verra bien ce que demain nous réserve 😁
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    • Day 55

      Orcera: Linarejos loop

      May 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

      Puente Honda: population, four. La Hueta: population, one. Linarejos: population, one. Three villages all under the watchful eye of the peak of Peñalta; all thriving aldeas for hundreds of years; all now with year-round populations approaching zero.

      When we saw Linarejos from afar the day we walked from La Hueta to Orcera, we knew we had to find a way to see it up close. Its mountainside perch combined with its striking terracing were irresistible.

      Our route today followed the Río Orcera up into the heavily forested ridges, with most of the river’s water diverted into acequias. We came to two junctions with the GR 247, and then the aldea itself with its wonderful views, its clean, neat streets, and its terraced orchards. At first we thought it was deserted, but the lone resident came out and chatted with us. He said he loves living alone there because it is so peaceful. On summer weekends, as many as 18 people come to stay in their second homes, but during the week he and his two dogs have the place to themselves. He likes winter even better than summer because then nobody comes on weekends. Winter used to bring up to a meter of snow to Linarejos, but now there is none. He knows well the 86 year old woman who is the only full-time resident of La Hueta, and says she walks all the way to Orcera to get her groceries (!) and gets a ride home from the police.

      The walk up to the aldea passes Orcera’s public recreation site with a huge swimming pool and various sports areas, all quiet on the way up, but filled with enthusiastic pickle ball players and workmen sanding and staining picnic tables on the way back.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/orcera-li…
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    • Day 53

      La Hueta to Orcera: May Day

      May 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

      The May Day holiday must surely have added to the number of walkers and cyclists we met on the trail today - maybe 20 or more. So far we’ve not met any other walkers with overnight size backpacks though, and only two cyclists with panniers.

      The trail to Orcera alternated between a small paved road and a narrow path through the woods. We saw some signs of last night’s half-hour of rain: mud across the road and bright green moss, plumped up by the long-awaited water. As we got closer to Orcera, we spotted the castle that towers over Segura de la Sierra (where we are going next) and three Muslim towers that we will explore while we are here.

      It was hard to leave La Hueta. Our three days there plus the two days at Puente Honda have given us a real feel for what a subsistence lifestyle in these villages must have been like. Now we are in a big town (population 2000), amazed to be back in the land of grocery stores and fast internet. No grocery stores open today though, due to the holiday, so we were lucky to find an open restaurant where we had heaping platefuls of meat, potatoes, and eggs for five euros each. No fruit or vegetables to be seen, and we speculated on how many inches of arteries we were clogging up, but consoled ourselves with the memory of the leftover red pepper we had for breakfast and our usual mandarin orange break while walking.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-hueta-…
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    • Day 56

      Orcera: A maritime province?

      May 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

      In all of our many visits to Spain, only one village museum was ever open when it said it would be. Most were permanently closed. Today was no exception, but a kind employee in the ayuntamiento unlocked the door for us, and said that if we could work our way around the cardboard planetarium the school kids were constructing, we were welcome to visit.

      The museum is devoted to explaining why a landlocked province like Jaén was named a maritime province in 1751. It turns out that the Royal Navy admired the straight, tall black pines as much as we do. In the interest of building ships to sail to and from Spain’s new colonies in the Americas, the forests of the Sierra de Segura were “terribly sheared by the intensive felling of their wood.” ‘Gancheros’ then drove rafts made up of thousands of trunks 600 km down the Guadalquivir to Sevilla. After the demand for wood for sailing ships dwindled, the trees continued to be felled to be used as sleepers for the new Spanish railway network. Good thing the Parque Natural finally came into being, so there are some trees left!
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    • Day 51

      It’s raining!

      April 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

      First actual rain in five months! There’s thunder too. You can actually see the drops on the balcony tiles.

      5 minutes later: it is really pouring now - just bucketing down. I hope it keeps up!

      Oh my. This is very loud. The lightning is quite close.

      45 minutes later: Well, that’s sad. It’s all over. They need hours and days of rain, not just a 45-minute soaking.
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    • Day 52

      La Hueta: Cascades

      April 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      La Hueta is in a bowl with mountains forming the rim. The Río Morles makes some huge jumps coming into the aldea, resulting in a series of cascades. We walked out to see the most accessible one yesterday (I was smart enough this time to follow my new rule: don’t go up something you can’t come down!), and Ned went even higher today, getting a fine sense of how the village fits into its surroundings. It must have been very self-sufficient in its day - we saw an era for threshing and a bakehouse, in addition to the many huertas.

      The house we are staying in has many reminders of what it must have been like to live here in the past. Both the living room and kitchen tables have heaters under them (one original and one updated; see photos) and long heavy coverings that reach to the floor. They remind us of the Mustang tables in Nepal. You pull the drapery over your lap and your legs and feet get to stay warm while your upper half sips hot tea.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-hueta-…
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    • Day 50

      Puente Honda to La Hueta

      April 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

      The peak of Peñalta towered over our walk today, small and distant when we started out, and imposing and majestic as we climbed higher. The GR 247 was again in good condition: wide, well-maintained (thank-goodness, after yesterday), and clearly signposted with x’s on the wrong forks at every junction.

      We then used a local trail down to the village of La Hueta where we met María José bringing us the keys to our house and also three days’ worth of groceries from Siles. Our climb would have been much harder had we been carrying all that extra weight plus the 20 liters of water she brought! (She says the water here is not good to drink )

      3 pm news flash: It just rained! Only a few widely spaced drops, and less than five minutes, but still quite an event, given that this is our first rain in 50 days here. The Sierra de Segura is the rainiest part of the park, and it sure needs more than a five minute sprinkle to replenish its more than 3000 springs.

      Video note: 829 feet, not meters

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/puente-ho…
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    • Day 49

      Puente Honda: mill, castle, & olive tree

      April 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      You’d think we would be smart enough by now to recognize a bad idea when it is staring us in the face. But after not being able to catch even a glimpse of the old Muslim mill that is just up the track from here (it’s now surrounded by private property), we were determined to see the second item on our list for the day: the Muslim castle that defended Puente Honda. We found the trailhead complete with a PR (pequeño recorrido) marker on it pointing the way to the castle.
      Ned: It doesn’t look like this trail is very well maintained.
      Elaine: Well, it’s such a short distance to the castle that it probably doesn’t matter. We can just bushwhack.

      0.5 km later:
      Ned: This is pretty steep and slippery. Are you sure you can do this?
      Elaine: Umm, I think so. Besides, I could never go back down that part we just came up.

      O.5 km later:
      Ned: Can you stay right where you are without falling? I’m going to see if I can find a better way out of here.
      Elaine: I’m not moving.

      5 minutes later:
      Ned: I can see a tractor path through an olive grove ahead. If we can get down to it, we could use it to get back to the GR 247. But there’s a steep drop down to the path. I’ll help you.
      Elaine: Umm, okay.

      5 minutes later:
      Ned: Be careful not to touch the fence around the olive grove. I just found out the hard way that it’s electrified.
      Elaine: We never should have done this.

      One hour later, we were back safe and sound, with not a single fall or twisted ankle. But the next time we’re tempted to bushwhack around here, we’ll think twice.

      Our final adventure of the day was making our way through another olive grove to see a very old, very large olive tree that towers above all the others nearby. It gets special care from the villagers.

      Staying here has been quite a lesson in what it must have been like to live in a Muslim village in Andalucía during their 700 years of rule here. The hamlet itself is not directly on the river. That area is reserved for vegetable gardens and farm animals like the goats we saw this morning. The mill is in a canyon farther up the river, and the fuente and lavaderos are right on the river also. The houses are arranged around a central square farther up the hillside with a water spout and an icon in the center. A friendly resident enjoying the sun there told us he was born in the village but spent his working life in Barcelona. His wife leaned out of an upstairs window and told us how happy she was to see visitors who loved this special place.

      The front door of our house is right on this square, but we generally enter through the back door, four stories up, but opening directly onto the road that winds up steeply from the square! Our host, Loli, now lives in Siles, but inherited this wonderful building with its 39 stairs from her grandfather.

      Note: yesterday’s video and some photos have now loaded.

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      It looks like we got directly to the castle if you use the IGN mapa raster view, but we did not see a single bit of it up close. Way too steep. A really good location for defense!!!
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/puente-ho…
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    • Day 48

      GR 247: Siles to Puente Honda

      April 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

      It’s always wonderful when you actually start out on a long-planned walk and you find out in the first few minutes that the route is even better than you had hoped. Today’s walk on stage 1 of the GR 247 (gran recorrido, or long-distance trail) had everything: mountain views, flowers, birdsong, frequent shade, and a nice smooth, wide track to top it off. All this in the remote NE corner of the park.

      We are now in the aldea of Puente Honda, population 5 (well, 7 with us here). There is WiFi in the house, but maybe not a fast enough upload speed to post photos (0.4 mbs). (Edited to add some low res photos- fuzzy, but they give the idea.)

      Today’s Wikiloc track:
      https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/gr-247-si…
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Segura de la Sierra

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