Xardín de Casto San Pedro

I was nervous about today.

The chatter you hear is that there is a lot of an ups and downs. But with everything being relative, how difficult is it?

I was out again for 8. Starting out with Victoria. Our pace was relatively strong. And we overtook a few.

On the way out we stopped as we noticed three caterpillars hanging down off some trees. Assuming to start the process of becoming caterpillars.

The imagery wasn’t lost of me. The symbol of transformation while walking this spiritual path. Do I feel different? I’m not sure whether I’ll know for sure till I’m back, but lessons haven’t certainly been learnt. And perhaps lies I’ve told myself revealed.

A km or so out. We stopped for a coffee, inviting the German woman we were just in front of to join us. And the Latvian also joined us a little later. It was here I realised how many pilgrims were now on the trail, at least 60-70 people must have passed us while taking a 20minute breakfast.

I let her and Victoria go ahead and I’ll catch them up. I didn’t want to keep pace, especially on a day of hills. I never saw them again.

But I did bond with a woman, Sandra 🇪🇸/ 🇵🇹, while getting up the first main steep section. I didn’t think we’d walk much further together as she didn’t know a word of English. But we managed to converse in portugues and she was such an excited creature, at everything. Every flowers, view, animal, mural, person…

She was a joy to be around. And she loved taking pictures, it became a joke that she was my Camino director!

We had the same ish pace, or at least hers was a very comfortable one for me. And so we walked on together, chatting in Portuguese. And taking the hills as they come, well we complained, but we did it.

The hills were tough. I can’t quite remember doing an incline as steep as that which we did yesterday. And it wasn’t just one time. I believe a minimum of three times, we had to ascend.

Yet the trail was one of the most beautiful for sure. The forest trails were stunning.

We had a quick lunch break. I got a natural orange juice. Sandra wasn’t happy about learning we had another 2 hours to go at least.

The men I met yesterday recognised me and shouted their hellos.

After a popular post in the Camino Portuguese FB group, about a kind man who sells Camino wares, close ish to Pontevedra, took a pilgrim back to an albergue when learning the closest was still some 10km away. I looked out for him, and ended buying a necklace. Hoping it reminds me I can do difficult things.

There was another complementary route choice or take original. Lesley told me to take the left (complementary) and it wasn’t much a choice considering the hot sun. Didn’t stop Sandra complaining of just how much she felt everyone was lying of how much there was left to go till Pontevedra.

But finally we cleared the forest/riverside walk and entered the city. We had to go under a city bridge, where I was fascinated by a rat swimming. Sandra was less fascinated and more scared and ran ahead.

Walking into the city together I realised I was talking porrtugues for at least 5 hours. Which was suprising, I hadn’t realised I could do that. Although tragedy, I realised my back zip on ruck sack hand not been closed properly and my purse had slipped out. Caught that, thankfully. But gave Sandra my stick while I re-hitched up my rucksack. But she pressed on it and bent and broke it.

So long pole. You served me well.

We split up, swapping contact details. And then I headed into the city to where I’m staying.

I chat with a Belarus Peregrina 🇧🇾 , living in Russia, although she brought up very quickly how she doesn’t like living there and how having to travel to here due to her being Belarus meant travelling for 2 days.

We then notice and visit the sanctuary of the pilgrims together, getting a stamp, and learning of the pilgrim mass at 7:30. We agree to go back then. I also bump into Laura, who I met the day before when entering a small church. She was wondering about staying or walking on to Combarro.

I told her to stay. She laughed and said maybe I was her sign. As I got my two credentials stamped I explained to her why and she thanked me for sharing that. Laura then followed me to my lodgings, and if there was space, she would stay.

They was a room and because she turned up with me they gave it to her for less.

We showered, changed. Laura went on ahead. I’m decided if I wasn’t doing the spiritual route, I would take a rest day in Pontevedra instead. As I had hoped to reach it much earlier to visit the historic and pilgrim specific sites, but we arrived just a little after 4.

I reached the sanctuary a little before. But on the way saw a shop that Grainne had recommended, (tiger tiger situation) and managed to find myself a collapsible walking stick. Not a proper hiking one, but something to test out at least.

I got the tail end of the normal mass. Sandra arrived and we sat three rows from the front. At half 7 many more pilgrims arrived. I saw the NY lady, the 2 seperate German ladies from the Camino I’ve seen over past 2 days.

The Camino village had returned somewhat.

The mass and pilgrim blessing was special. And after I returned from my seat, I genuinely prayed. I felt caught in the spirit of the pilgrims before me and the pilgrims yet to come. And the emotions, questions and hope, all were walking with. And tears formed. I locked eyes with Laura and she nodded her support in the moment.

Afterwards, Laura and I headed to a restaurant recommended by our host, Bar Estrella. And we invited a US peregrino to join us. For the first time on the trip, I drank wine. We shared some delicious tapas. And I had again the chance to talk about my mum. I also managed to shock Laura by saying I’d visited her state, Montana, and how that again links back to my mum and her encouraging me to travel to Brazil, where of course I’d meet Maggie.

John thanked us at least 4 times for inviting him, saying it was a highlight for him. Apparently so far not many folks had invited him for dinner - but then he hasn’t been staying in albergues. Which I’m sure makes a difference. We then walked back against the moonlit streets of Pontevedra.

For a day I was dreading. And even kept my earphones out for the first time thinking I may need them to push through. It ended up being such a special day, a hard day, but special and a true testament to the Camino’s spirit. Never knowing what lies ahead, just taking the first step and being open to what comes…

And Laura was right. It’s odd how despite all the pilgrims you do end up bumping into the few select ones you’ve connected with.

Body Check: heat rash on back - cough is a little worse - arches on feet, hurting - body stiffness

Highlights:
O no timed showers
O Pilgrim MassRead more