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Summer Of Yes
  • Steve Broyles
Jul – Dec 2023

Summer Of Yes

This all started as "maybe I'll ride a bike for a few days"... and the magic of "Yes"
My (1st) Round The World adventure. Read more
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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Reminds me of Costa Rica
    New-growth forest of birch and larch.Caffe Gorski Smesko. Bohemian. Junky. Cute.1Credit: https://www.jamesakinsmith.co.ukCaffe Gorski Smesko https://m.facebook.com/gorskismeskoGorgeous day to meander.The trail is marked by heart blazesGrapes abound in this region. Probably Gewürztraminer, I'm told.A typical and fairly traditional local homeModern architecture is also quite commonGo to the forestRoots, I'm thinking about 'em a lotOld and new homes coexistCaffe junk art vibe

    Unexpected, expect it.

    August 8, 2023 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    I have never been less generally within my comfort zone than this week. Not only do I know almost zero words in Serbian, I can't even read the cyrillic writing to try to guess at things and the accent is wildly foreign to my ears.

    So I've found myself generally bewildered since I boarded the bus in Split a few days ago. Yet in that time I have rented an ebike, bought a train ticket, obtained a few meals, and found my way to a cute as a button winery in the hills. I've explored a fortress and a city center, ordered gelato, purchased some probiotics, and gone for a meander in a birch and larch forest to a delightfully whimsical albeit ramshackle cafe. ( https://m.facebook.com/gorskismesko ). All of this while battling a respiratory infection that has me feeling extra tired and snotty.

    How did I do it?!? You must be asking.
    The kindness of strangers.

    You see, people are inherently good, despite what some malicious organizations want you to believe. Almost everyone with whom I've interacted has tried to help me and the very few who didn't actively help also did not hinder me. Various times people have gone out of their way. It's a great reminder of the right way to live life.

    I have many strengths but asking for help and relying on others are two areas in which I appreciate the opportunity to grow. And... I've heard that growth happens outside of our comfort zone, so I guess this is my time!

    Wheeee!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Sock Break Danube

    August 9, 2023 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    The "Danube River Route", eurovelo 6, doesn't actually get near the river very much so I've detoured down a dirt/pavement track to be rewarded with a pleasant little picnic area... and the River.

    Perfect place for a brief rest.

    I also found some windfall plums on which to snack along one of the various "this does not reach the river" attempts. Yummy.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Sunflower fields1Enormous lunch for about $11 USDApple orchards, different from my experience

    Familiarity

    August 9, 2023 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    One of the best parts of taking the slow(er) way to get somewhere is the time it offers for reflection and contemplation.

    I could have taken a 36 minute fast train instead of a 7hr bike ride, and I don't for a moment regret that I didn't take the 5-day walk solution.

    "This Looks Like" is a game that my brain loves to play. Trying valiantly to assign a somewhere-else to wherever I am.

    Today as I e-cycled along a narrow rural road with signs in a very foreign language, looking at fields of sunflowers so ripe that their heads have drooped to face the dirt instead of the sky, and corn, and apple orchards... All laid out in what makes sense to local custom....

    I found myself playing: This looks like.....

    No.
    It doesn't. I've never seen fields of sunflowers this mature. While I did recently see many fields in Spain; the layout, the type, the corn, the apple orchards, the irrigation... Is all different. The dirt is a grayer brown instead of the red clay of the meseta and the colors entirely change with the August sun at 45° N latitude vs 42° in late June. I'm on a bike at ~25km/h not strolling at 5km/h. The smells of the cars' fuel (the presence of cars!), the roads, the humidity, the birdcalls... All of it. Nearly every damn thing is actually significantly different from anywhere and anywhen that I've experienced.

    Which is part of what makes travel so fucking cool, no?

    But despite all the evidence of dissimilarity, I find my brain trying to put this oblong peg into a round hole.

    Why?

    I think it's because us thinking apes have enjoyed tremendous evolutionary success by recognizing patterns. When we see an apple we see the idea of an edible fruit. It may be flatter or taller or redder or greener or larger or smaller... We don't bog down on those details. We see "apple" and know it is food, and we eat.

    An unwanted side effect is that many of us have learned to grab things and arrange them in a snap-to-grid fashion. We ignore the differences, which are often the true beauty of a thing.

    As I pedaled, I wondered in what other arenas I make this mistake? Where do I let prejudice slip its insidious claws into my appreciation of people, places, food, experiences?

    I suspect I do it far more than I think and I'm going to pay closer attention. Seeing every single difference, every single time would drive a man mad; that isn't what I advocate.

    Paying attention to what is actually present is so much richer an experience than is pretending that things *entirely* match a pattern previously learned.

    But my lunch is here and I'm going to see how different it is than the almost-the-same description in Croatia.... Other than being double the portion size!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Met some German cyclists along the road. We survived!
    Awesome hosts in Ledinci.Trying to find sunset beautyThe "great city view" from my air bnb. Feels dystopian to meMuralPublic transit abounds. Pretty easy to useSaint Peter's Church. Dark, old.Almost a chocolate croissantNational Bank. My Dad would've liked this buildingDowntown has many classic looking, attractive buildigsI saw at least 4 'make stamps fast' places. Seems an odd thing.Fountain in KalemegdanKalemegdan. built 3rd Century.The Kalemegdan. Old Fort now a parkSpicy Kung Pao Veggies

    So Long Serbia...

    August 11, 2023 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    ....I hardly knew ya.

    Though I feel I did pretty well in the bit of time I had, and under the conditions.

    I, along with many others, came down with some sort of respiratory infection while on The Yacht Week. I can't say that I'm surprised... Questionably healthy decisions were de rigueur for the week.

    My own sinuses, then lungs plainly informed me: "We are taking a break now", so my tourism time in Beograd (Belgrade) was greatly abbreviated and I spent nearly half of it horizontal in a soviet-era block housing airbnb with soaring vista of.... Ugly.

    I'm reluctant to say that the whole city is ugly - there were some really pretty statues and the standard-anywhere storefronts. Serbia as a whole is very much a meet-for-coffee kinda place and sidewalks are full of people socializing in attractive seating areas. I lived that!

    There is a scenic fortress along the Sava river, and riverboat cafes/bars that, had I been healthy, I would have liked to explore.

    Highlights for me: biking nearly 100KM along the Danube to get from Novi Sad to Beograd. It was a long day with a lot of coughing, but it felt good to ride a bike and was a great introduction to the joys of eBike tourism. I'm a fan. It's a good vehicle with which to explore a foreign country.

    The best part of Serbia for me has been the people. Both of my airbnb hosts were kind, generous, and helpful. If you find yourself near Novi Sad, I recommend Podrum Miljević https://air.tl/6tWu87l5 . Great spot to stay.
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/jkgwW1YyFFJPFYix7

    The friendly bike rental guy fed me coffee and shared tips on how to get around. Waiters were patient with my butchery of their language, even though they spoke excellent English, and a tour guide carefully explained how to catch the $4 shuttle bus to the airport from downtown (an idea that other cities should copy!)

    I met a fun cycling couple from Munich and shared some terrifyingly narrow car-infested roads. Having company takes things from scary to adventure, sometimes.

    The food... Meh. I didn't love it. The host at the winery made wonderful meals. I did have some scrumptious baklava and also found a chinese place (Mr. Wong's) with a suspiciously Serbian-looking chef and a delicious kung-pao veggie bowl. Perfect spicy vitamin-packed meal to help me fight this sinus thing.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    So excited about this
    1Fancy buffetCutest pears, ever"beautiful city view"Belgrade block housing

    Taking A Knee

    August 12, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    I pride myself on perseverance... I don't give up. I'm tough. I can do this. I don't quit. I can take it.

    So it was a bit challenging for me to admit, "Hey. I'm wrecked. I need rest."

    I had planned an exciting hardcore traveler journey through Eastern Serbia and Bulgaria- trains and hostels and obscure destinations with esoteric goals like visiting Europe's oldest continuously inhabited city (Plovdiv, in case you're curious).... But Thursday, sitting in a run-down Soviet-era block apartment in Belgrade, coughing up green and blowing what felt like gallons of the same from my sinuses (I'll spare us photography) I had to admit: I *can* do this, but I'm being stubborn to my detriment. If I board a 13-hour train tomorrow, I'm going to hate it.

    I can afford to make myself comfortable, to allow myself to heal. I can be weak. Nobody is going to even know unless I broadcast it publicly in a blog or something (why would I do that?!?)

    And so I found a 90 minute flight and a fancy room online.... And 36 hours after making the decision (more or less) I'm sitting on a divan in an impeccably clean room with a luxurious king-size bed. I just ate my fill of a fantastic buffet breakfast after sleeping-in because the blackout curtains and noise-proofing created an impenetrable cocoon all night and I slept like the dead. I've had a hot hot shower with boutique bath products and dried myself with as many big fluffy towels as I want.

    Big plans for the day include naps, and a steam room visit and/or jacuzzi. I may even walk around the block to see where I am.

    I still feel.... Guilty? For taking the "easy way out" but I think I can unlearn that. Maybe I can carry that lesson forward in other areas of my life, too. I've wasted a lot of energy trying to make untenable positions work. Maybe it's time to apply lessons from work to my life: figure out the high percentage/high profit opportunities and leave the rest aside. Oddly, that's second nature to me professionally and almost offensive to my sense of adventure and/or interpersonal relationships. I wonder why?

    It'll be a good thing to think about in the turkish bath, later.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Brightly painted doors and buildings
    Impressive. But closedBad to buy food to get the waiter to snap a photo. Worth it.Trees make the world more pleasantOver my shoulder, a guy moving a sofa on a little cart

    I'm only *mostly* dead

    August 12, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 82 °F

    Yeah, actually not that bad at all.
    But this is day... 8? 9? Of less-than-good health so I tried to spend it resting.

    Deferred Gratification.
    As someone bopping around Europe while other people do Very Important Things, I am clearly ok with enjoying the now. Sometimes.

    Today, however, has been about trying to rest and recover from being ill so that I can enjoy my travel more... Later. The deferred part. Sigh.

    It has been a challenge. The weather is perfect. Istanbul is fascinating. I hate eating exorbitantly priced room-service ($45 for a salad with salmon?!?). So I did enjoy a few minutes out in the streets to find food and I'm looking forward to more!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Blue Mosque courtyardBare feet: yes. Bare shoulders? Straight to hell.Hagia Sophia ceilings remind me of Venice. Who did it first?Hagia SophiaMost of the art is straight upA Jesus/Mary decoration in a Mosque?blue mosqueBlue Mosque indoorsAblution Fountain

    Taking a Break from Rest (pt 1)

    August 13, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 81 °F

    I had the best of intentions, but in my defense: I was left unsupervised.

    Sunday I started off slow and with the idea I would do a quick tour of some mosques. That's almost like rest.

    I even took a cab vs walking. That may have been influenced by rain, truth be told.

    After walking around a little, admiring egyptian artifacts stolen in the 5th century, I found myself wow'ed in the courtyard of the spectacular Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque) but unable to enter because it was in-use for a congregation. It was about then that I also realized I had made an error in wearing shorts... But I decided to try anyway as the men-wear-pants rule was variably enforced. I do want to be respectful, even if the rule is silly. Venice was similar nonsense. I just can't get my head around how religious cults can get so worked up over knees and shoulders being exposed. But then again: it's their house , I'll respect their rules.

    So with time to kill I strolled across the plaza to the Hagia Sophia, ran into the same timing problem, and decided to just... Wait.

    The wait itself was a good chance to rest and to people gawk. A long queue is a great place to see cultural differences on food, attire, group dynamics, and the concept of waiting in line. Also a chance to watch the various stray dogs who live in the area. Cute mongrels who seem to be at ease among the throngs. The sounds of the amplified prayer echoing through the square, and repeated from other mosques, lend a sense of exotic adventure to the whole affair (see video).

    Once inside the Hagia Sophia - an enormous building that has been a Church, a mosque, a museum, and now a mosque again - I was impressed by the grandeur and the mosaics. Beautiful. I'm glad to have seen it.

    On the way out, I stopped off at the fountain of ablution to double-down on my Camino sin forgiveness. One can't be too blessed/forgiven, after all.

    As an aside, I admire the inclusion of basic hygiene into rituals. It's a good idea. The fountain is beautiful, too, and I am a big fan of making drinking water available to people.

    Back to the Blue Mosque I went and ... Wow!

    I've been touring houses of worship for months. I've seen amazing places. This one currently tops my list for best overall "I like it here" impact. It is beautiful, light, airy, full of color and patterns. The marble columns are massive and appear to be from a single block in the horizontal dimension. Everything about the aesthetic left me feeling happily impressed. 10⭐ strongly recommend.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Sitting By The Sea

    August 13, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

    In addition to all the historic and cultural wow, Istanbul is on the Sea. So I walked down to take a look and was happy to watch people being.... People. They were grilling some food, playing some music, fishing, and just sitting.

    I'm reminded that while I'm drawn to the differences that make a place "interesting", there are also many similarities in the way humans want to live.

    We all (or most of us, anyway) like pretty places, spending time with our family/community, relaxing on a Sunday afternoon, and enjoying some time outdoors.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Istanbul (pt 2)

    August 13, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

    It's a few days later, so I guess I've stopped with the 'rest'. It was a struggle. I'm going to have to do it sooner or later as I'm still less than 100% but also, Istanbul.

    Where did I leave off? I think it was The Blue Mosque.

    After that I had a great interaction with a watch shopkeeper. It included fixing my watchband, exchanging marital advice, and getting a restaurant recommendation that proved both delicious and fortuitous, albeit windy and a little rainy on the rooftop.

    The good fortune was meeting four Spaniards from Mallorca. We struck up a convo, exchanged travel tales and they convinced me to join them for a beer. Very little arm twisting was involved. They recommended a hammam (bath) that they had found, and suggested that I should meet them in Cappodocia (about a 90min flight).

    Eventually we parted ways (another round happened) and the day proceeded with admiring views, strolling past the seafront, enjoying street music and shopfronts, and getting a Turkish Bath. The bath was interesting. I'd like to try another, because it's a neat experience, but I need to let my skin regrow first. The place I went was a workaday/blue collar setting. Not fancy, but lots of worn marble (slippery) and antique fixtures. In essence it was a gruff old man pushing and grunting at me to do what surely any local guy has known for years. The process was basically: costume change into a towel. Then rinse off under my own supervision. I was put in a steamy sauna for a while, then pulled out, rinsed down, and scrubbed aggressively with a rough glove. More rinsing ensued before I got a rough 'massage' with about a 3" layer of soap bubbles. It was... Invigorating, more than relaxing. He then dragged me (literally) to another spot to rinse off again and that was pretty much it. About 30ish minutes.
    I've never been cleaner.

    The experience wrapped up with me, wrapped up in towels, chillin on a chair to relax and sip water.

    It was a bargain-priced version and I suspect that higher-end venues are both more beautiful and probably a bit less... Aggressive.

    No matter; Adventure!

    I finished the night enjoying a drink with my new friends after accidentally bumping into them on my way home. Great fun, and I committed to Cappodocia on Tuesday.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Istanbul Airport

    August 15, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Points in favor: amazingly comfy lounge chairs w/charging. Very nice. Comfy temperature. Clean. Not too loud (by airport standards). Security was quick, efficient, and pleasant (no yelling).

    Points against: it is 35 km from anywhere.
    That's only a 600 TL (about $25 USD) taxi fare but it takes a long time and the public transit options are complicated and take more like 90 minutes.

    Major fail: water. You gotta pay for water.
    Any airport that doesn't give away free drinking water is run by incompetent assholes, Period. The amount of plastic waste generated is unacceptable, and water is a basic right that the security prevents us from providing ourselves.

    Harrumph.

    Edit: they board from the back! Yay    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Nevsehir Airport

    August 15, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 90 °F

    Small. Easy.
    Bathrooms ain't pretty.

    But I really like that ground transit prices are listed on a big sign. That's always a challenge in a new place: what should a ride cost? Well... about $5 (130 TL)

    Love it!

    I feel wrecked. Too much walkie today, not enough resty or hydration. Bad Steve. I can do better.

    It's a dry 90° at 9pm. I'm legitimately in the Middle East, I reckon. How fun!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Caves n Things

    August 16, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 97 °F

    With temps in the high 90s, it's easy to understand how people found refuge in the caves, here.

    We just walked through an amazing series of tunnels and caves, saw the largest Cathedral in Cappodocia, and marvelled at the beauty of it all.

    I could explore this place for days, but our organized tour is whisking us away to the next stop. Stops so far have included a trinket shop, a jewelry store, and a UNESCO world heritage site. I'd say about 1/3 of them have been worth paying to see. ;)

    I guess I'll have to come back someday.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Alive

    August 18, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Travel is notable state of living.

    On the one hand it feels more vibrant and alive than my domestic life. I am experiencing so much and learning and seeing...
    I am in a constant state of being alert and the novelty forces a being-present that I love.

    On the other hand, it's inherently temporary. While all things are, ultimately, impermanent travel brings that ephemeral nature to the fore. On the road I fall in love with places and then move along. I meet wonderful people and sometimes stay in touch, sometimes I barely know their name.

    I carry a deeply ingrained belief in the importance of building. I save for the future. I climb. I have goals and plans and dreams.

    All of those I leave behind when I am on a journey like this and while the freedom and chaos and adventure feed my soul... there are moments when I take a step back and see that I haven't yet discovered how to balance those two aspects of my personality: the deep urge to adventure and explore; the need to build a nest and have stability.

    Can they co-exist? I haven't experienced that yet.

    What about community? Relationships?
    The internet allowed me a nice phone call with my mother last night and I am in daily contact with friends via various chats. Despite that, the last few days remind me that I am very alone out here in the beautiful semi-arid landscape of Central Türkiye. I spent the day sweating through what I hope is the end of a gastro-intestinal infection yesterday and at one point thought.... if something happens, does anyone know where I am enough to find me?

    That's morbid and exaggeratedly dramatic... I'm not nearly *that* sick! But the point I want to make is that solo travel through remote regions can be difficult, mentally. I choose to believe that it builds character. Days like yesterday and today, it can just feel difficult.

    I am grateful, very much, that most of the time I enjoy excellent health and I am reminded of how important that is.

    So while today feels like my physical health is improving, I can feel that my mental health has taken a beating too. I'm having doubts about the longevity of the journey. I'm feeling urges to get back to the aforementioned "building a life".... Which is a stupid phrase in that all of us, every day, build our lives through every choice we make.

    I don't have many choices to make today. I have 12 hours to fill before I take a night bus to the coast. I need to feel the sea; to rest. I need to stop moving around quite as much... maybe that means picking a place for a week or two... Or a month? vs. ending this journey. There is still So. Much. To. See.

    As I write this, I am treated to experiencing three travelers show up to where I'm breakfasting. One of them is enthusiasm writ large. He exclaims about the fantastic view and the thrill of how exotic it is. He is right. This is amazing. We are fortunate to be here and I am glad for the reminder. This is why I won't wrap up the journey just yet: there is still so much to see and I have nearly half the globe to traverse before I bump into California again. I am far more likely to regret stopping than I am to regret continuing.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Brilliant blue paint on this ancient cave -churchMore cliffside cave city1Me? I didn't even know there was a cameraRelaaaaaaaax'evil eye' trees are a thing. Especially near stores selling themThe construction site next door to my room. Offered interesting insights to building. And noiseDogs here are so demandingHanging around, making hot airSubterranean City tour w the SpaniardsMore tourism, great guys

    Farewell Cappodocia

    August 18, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Despite a lot of discomfort, I enjoyed my stay in Cappodocia very much. It's a splendid place.

    On my way out the hotelier sorta apologized that it was the hottest three days of the year so far. Can confirm: it was hot.

    I was fortunate today to have access to a pool. The 4 spaniards who I met in Istanbul, and with whom I went ballooning, invited me to join them for the afternoon at their hostel. Sitting by a pool in 98° (37°) was delightful. I love splishes.

    We also did a little meander earlier in the day, saw some more caves, drank a coconut, sat under misty shade.

    I'm presently trying hard to find positive comments vs negative, because I am on an overnight bus that is 28° (82°) and I can't sleep... I'm uncomfortable and sleepy... Not feeling very positive at all.

    But the visit was good, that's positive.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    1st sunset
    Bus viewNifty meat dept. A real butcher was really butchering.Pretty normal-feeling market. Normal for not-USAGot a banana. Excellent for travel bellyFree the toes! River felt coldCeramics are big in Avanos2nd sunset

    Quick Side Quest

    August 18, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    On a whim and the advice of friends, I decided to fill some time with a quick jaunt to a nearby town called Avanos.

    I'm so glad I did!

    This place is beautiful, modern, alive in the present and surely a much better example of real Turkey than is the hyper-touristy town of Göreme.

    I enjoyed strolling through a supermarket, soaking my toes in the river (that has a beautiful promenade along each bank), catching a sunset view, and seeing people dressed up for Friday Night.

    All in all, a wonderful way to spend a couple of hours. I wish I felt confident in my belly's ability to eat a good meal. It looks like the food here is tasty and the menu prices are much more reasonable than in Göreme.

    Update!

    I'm on the wrong bus!
    This is not great news, but not a disaster. I think I know where we are going and am confident I can grab a taxi from there to where I need to be. This'll teach me to pay closer attention while awaiting public transit... in my defense, I didnask the guy waiting next to me if this is the way to Göreme and he said yes. Then when the bus arrives the driver barely atopped and started driving while I was boarding, so I didn't have lot of time to ask questions!

    Update 2!

    I disembarked the wrong bus in a place that looked busy. Ended up charring with Cesar, from Paris about life and travel and plans and disillusion... He is facing some tough decisions and I did my best to lead him towards ways to find the answers instead of telling what I think he should do. Nice guy.

    I also chatted with a local who confirmed that we had the correct stop. Phew!

    A bit later, another local told me that while we had the right stop, we had missed the last bus. Not great.

    But! Ills (spelling?) then told me he needed to go to Göreme as well. We split a cab (crazy diver!) and got back to town without further issues. Phew!

    Cesar caught his bus too.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    2

    Ride a *What*?!?!

    August 19, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    Kâmel Koç

    The very uncomfy bus is called.. Kâmel Koç
    Is this a joke? Because ...

    Sigh. A good laugh helps.

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Day 1 Antalya

    August 19, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    Antalya

    I can't quite put my finger on what I like about this town, but I do like it.

    With 2.5M people, town is a misnomer.

    Irritatingly, I'm struggling with a gut bug and can't really enjoy the delicious food.

    I was sitting there at the cute and very hippy hostel into which I got a serendipitous early check-in (much needed after the overnight bus ride debacle)...

    ...writing in my journal and sipping coffee.

    I was thinking about the time I'd just spent w/ my pals from Spain and I wrote: "I think the reality of being alone is starting to become heavy. I want to share common experiences more often"...

    And a guy sits up from his hammock and starts talking to me.

    Sometimes things just work out.

    @dorian.krafft and I spent the next few hours sharing anecdotes and then a brunch. It was brief but just what I needed in the moment.

    I went on to manifest finding a free discarded padlock, later. I'm on a roll! As an aside, it took me less than 10 minutes to "crack" the 3 digit combo. Those locks aren't great.

    I took a snorkel by the harbor- not much to see but it felt great to get wet and salty and rinse off the malaise of illness and bus ride.

    Also, dogs. So many dogs. They're generally friendly and affectionate which is good as they're also generally very large!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Relaxing riverside break, I want to swim in it

    Seaside Waterfall

    August 20, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    The Düden River courses down from the mountains and passes through Antolya to hurl itself off of a seaside cliff into the Mediterranean Sea, gloriously beautiful.

    I really enjoyed standing on the land upwind of the spray and watching the interplay of sunlight, salt water, freshwater, and air.

    If I add some fire and we would have all of the elements present.

    I got a coffee. That's like fire, right?

    This place is truly a wonder. It pains me that they've dubbed the vista point "Düden Wonderland" but then, here I am with a busload of people lazily being shown this majestic phenomenon. I shouldn't throw stones.

    Instead I'll enjoy it. There's cool water and slight breeze to mitigate the impact of a day in the mid-80s (high 20s C) with humidity over 90%. The mist roiling up from the sea is like a gargantuan swamp cooler.

    I am sure that I won't regret taking an option that includes AC, today.

    Besides, I tell myself, I am still recovering from a challenging bout of accelerated intestinal transit. It's good to give myself the more gentle tour today, even if it offends my inner "I am a traveller not a tourist" sense of self. Self, we are a tourist today. Sorry.

    The coffee is delicious.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Ah, to cruise the Med....
    Selfie!1st Choco Croissant in TürkiyeMy coy blond aspirantHadrian's Gate built c. 130 CEA Mosque

    Last Morning in Türkiye

    August 21, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    I was up 'early' at 6:30 AM and decided to journal vs. re-sleep - only to discover that I killed a pen!! This always pleases me because it seems rare.

    Only now I lack a pen with which to journal. Hmm. Surely I can find that, here, in a city of 2.5 million souls.

    I hit the rooftop to get bendy instead and it feels so good to yoga in hot humid morning with the sun a pale disc in the heavy air, so dense not even light seems able to move quickly. As I heal from recent maladies and challenges I am excited to feel my physical strength return. I found myself pushing much harder than I had planned, flowing through a harder practice than I've done in weeks. Sanity through perspiration.

    "Don't come here in August" said my tour guide Zuzu yesterday. She is right. It isn't that the heat is unbearable, it is that views are obscured, the inevitable smells of city life are more fetid, the flies are overjoyed by these conditions, and all people have a narrower band of patience by virtue of everything being harder to enjoy. It just isn't as nice.

    I'm still quite glad I came.

    After some sweaty yoga I towelled off and went to find coffee. Finally found my first chocolate croissant in Turkey! The coffee was good. The croissant, good enough. As I started eating, a pretty blond coyly approached the table to see if I wanted company. She realized quickly that I wasn't interested and moved a table away to lick her feet on her own terms.

    I can hear the city waking up - It isn't a morning place despite the delightfully cooler temps compared to later. I think I'll miss the minarets and the calls to prayer. I am certainly enjoying them while here. I won't miss the sea as I am headed towards more of it, but I know that I've missed out on exploring a great deal of amazing coastline.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Before
    After

    Turkish Haircut

    August 21, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    I had a little time to fill so I decided to clean up a little. I'd skipped shaving long enough that using a disposable razor was simply not feasible... So I figured I would pop into a barber for a quick shave and haircut.

    The barber spoke only slightly more English than I do Turkish, which is to say that after overlap we had about 7 words total between us and he had a razor. What could go wrong?

    We started off with steaming water and fragrant soap, applied more than liberally with a nice brush. Then applied a second time, until I had a solid inch of foam all over the lower half of my face. He was thorough. Then he carefully straight-razored away the 2 weeks of beard I've been sporting. Reapplying soap with frequency.

    Soap, it seems, is key to the process. Which is fine because it feels good to have my fave lathered.

    Once he got through with the shave he hot waxed my cheekbones and ears. After a few moments of talking his cellphone, he came back and added some globs of wax to my nostrils and nose, too. This was a first for me.

    As the wax cooled, I was served some apple tea. A nice touch, but hard to enjoy with my sniffer stuffed with wax - an experience I was about to discover gets significantly less pleasant with the undoing. Ouch!

    He followed up with a quick rubdown with some sorta toner, and then applied a nice layer of mud mask.

    With my face fully defuzzed and painted dark gray with mud, he got to work on my hair and without much communication I feel like we did a good job. I saw later that he missed one little spot but I think I can fix that myself if I can find some scissors.

    The cut was pretty standard except that he used the straight razor as a final step, with the comb. Not sure what that does but... Ok.

    As the cut ended and the mask dried, he had me lean frontward into the sink and washed both my face and hair very thoroughly, with a lot of soap. A LOT of soap. It gets a little tricky to breath while facing down with a constant spray of soapy water cascading downward over one's nose and mouth. But I *love* having my hair washed and enjoyed every moment of it.

    I thought I was nearly done but... Not even close. We took a tea break, then the assistant went to work on my shoulders with an electric massage machine and the barber proceeded to tone, oil, wipe, tone and... Something else my face. I lost count of the steps and products but it smelled great and each application was like a mini facial massage, while the 14yr old assistant went to work on my legs.

    Once my face and hair were done, both the barber and the boy went to work in earnest. My limbs were stretched and twisted, my neck cracked, my chest stretch and my spine adjusted. I was bent forward again so that they could get to my back and it turned out to be a pretty good massage. Unexpected and a tremendous experience.

    There were tea breaks now and then, but I barely remember when.

    What I thought was a "quick" visit to the barber turned out to be nearly 90 minutes. I emerged refreshed and relaxed and about $20 lighter. I wish my hair grew even faster- I'd do this every week!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Not too bad a room, at least

    Tram Fiasco

    August 21, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    Today just keeps being story worthy.

    I'd love it if there were nothing else on which to comment, for a while.

    I'd asked a few people and all agreed: the tram to the airport is easy.
    It is not easy.

    So far I've caught several trams and it took me 3 times to realize that the problem was that there is some problem with the tracks, and the tram was disgorging passengers to connect via bus to another tram to get toward the airport. Fortunately, some tram security guys were really helpful in explaining to me what was going on.... And serendipitously my 1st flight is delayed. So I'm calm as a cucumber but a little overcooked by the weather and the confusion.

    I think it'll be fine.

    Note to self: just because the map shows a tram going to where you want to go, it's ok to ask a few people if you're going the right way. Might save hassles.

    On the plus side, the trams are modern, quite, comfy, and air conditioned. Cuz it's too hot to be in a City with a lot of people.

    Well. That was easy compared to this.
    My Turkish Air flight that was "slightly" delayed turned out to be very delayed. Which meant I was the guy running through the airport w a backpack and begging people to let me jump the queue in passport control and security.

    It warms my heart how almost everyone was generous enough to let me pass. Just wonderful !

    Alas
    I missed my flight by 3 minutes. Frustrating.

    Fixing the problem took a few hours, most of which I spent trying to find the Pegasus ticket counter in the airport. Confusion reigned like an addled yet not benevolent dictator.

    And took some money.
    But problems that can be fixed by money that we have aren't problems; they're expenses.

    Flying to Greece tomorrow (22nd)
    And hoping that all flights work smoothly!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Not what we want to see in a stall.
    Saved this from a previous flight. Stoked!5€ coffee?

    Not Today, Satan

    August 22, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Universe: "Let's Test You"

    Me: "I got this"

    Always carry a wet wipe when travelling.
    I gather them at reataurants/on planes when I see them and try to keep one or two in-stock.

    Better still, always check TP before you sit down.

    In other news, not unrelated...
    The SAW airport concessions are insane. I just paid 13€ for a (not terrible) croissant and cup of coffee. That's expensive in expensive places, and outright robbery here. Yesterday in Antalya I got a beautiful salad for lunch at a fraction of that price.

    But it used up my Lira, which would otherwise have been in a bowl at home for the foreseeable future. So not really any loss at all.

    Still.... What a rip-off for an airport that doesn't reliably stock TP.    Read more

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