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Summer Of Yes
  • Steve Broyles
  • Steve Broyles

Summer Of Yes

This all started as "maybe I'll ride a bike for a few days"... and the magic of "Yes"
My (1st) Round The World adventure. Lue lisää
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SeuraaYhteenvetoYhteenvetoKalenteriKalenteriValokuvatValokuvatJaaJaaToivelista
Uusin ensin
  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja

    Hippi Eat

    5. marraskuuta 2023, Kokous ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Sunday. Brunch O'clock.

    A restaurant by the sea called Hippi Eat?
    *Of course* I'm eating there. Here.

    It was delicious and staff was friendly.

    A light rain tried several times to un-lighten but never did more than speckle the table.

    It cost about what I spent per two-days on food in Mada.... But such is life hereabouts. Not a bargain destination.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    1

    Quickie to the River; Great Drive

    5. marraskuuta 2023, Kokous ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    My map shows hot springs nearby so I figured I'd use the last hour of daylight to take a look.

    It turns out that the springs must have been hotter at some point in the past. There are old (closed) bath houses and a tepid creek.

    Very pretty and I enjoyed a cold swim in the large waterfall-fed pool before a warmish shower in the 'hot' waterfall.

    It was a nice intro to the area.

    Driving up was spectacular. The road follows a river/canyon up to this very large volcanic cone. I'm told that there are 140 hairpin turns, and by hairpin.... It's a slow down to 1st gear type of turn. Fun. The views are soaring. Huge walls of green-covered jagged lava. The clouds rolling and swirling add a mystical other worldly feel.

    I suspect that the rain may cause me to adjust my ambitious hiking plans. Perhaps Cilaos is a planning/resting day instead of a peak-bagging day. To be determined.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    11

    Chapel Hike

    6. marraskuuta 2023, Kokous ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    I had grand plans to hike the highest peak in the Indian Ocean but the weather was not cooperative so I opted for something lower and less exposed to the rain.

    I'm glad. "Le Chapel" canyon blew my mind.
    Absolutely spectacular. The canyon is the result of a river/waterfall steadily carving away space between teo massive walls of polished stone. Light creeps in through the cracks and refracts and reflects in patterns I could not capture. I wish that Inhad better imaging gear and more talent... But surely someone else has... Um... Hold on..... Here: https://flic.kr/p/crSnYS

    The hike there & back was strenuous: About 775m of vertical gain (~2,500ft) and involved some class 4 scrambling - especially on the slippery river rocks near the end. A good challenge and hard enough to make plunging into the cool water feel wonderful. I followed up the cool with my best imitation of being a lizard, baking on the sun-heated rocks for a while. Sheer bliss.

    I feel especially fortunate because the beginning and end of the hike was shrouded in misty clouds, but I enjoyed brilliant sunshine for most of the time I was playing in the canyon. Delightful.

    The hike itself, without the canyon, would still figure as an excellent one: soaring views of jagged mountains and luscious verdant vistas stretch for as far as the eye can see (or the mists allow).    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Cilaos Morning
    CilaosEastern slope side of the islandView from the airport terminal

    Au revoir, Réunion!

    7.–11. marrask. 2023, Kokous ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Good morning, Réunion. And goodbye.

    I've been blown away by the rugged terrain here. The island is ... Raw: Powerful seas, jagged peaks, verdant forests.

    I'd like to come back and explore further someday. But today I was up pre-dawn for the long drive to the airport. Without traffic, it's about 2 hours but my hostess in Cilaos emphatically suggested I plan for a longer drive.

    So I left at 6AM for a 12:05 flight.... And made it to the airport comfortably at 10 after many, many traffic delays along the way. In fairness, I did opt to take the slightly longer route through the mountains and along the East Coast to see the sugarcane side of the island. I'm so glad that I did! It was a wonderful way to spend the morning podcast on, windows down, enjoying the views.

    Aside: I've really enjoyed potable tap water. It's easy to take for granted until you don't have it. Fewer plastic bottles, less wasted money; good stuff.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja

    Flight delayed, again

    7. marraskuuta 2023, Kokous ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    The Reunion airport has a shower! How cool?!? I didn't use it, but there have surely been times when I'd have been overjoyed to grab a quick shower on a layover. Kudos to Reunion!

    Sadly, I know this because I spent an hour touring the terminal because I was bored sitting here for five hours.

    Flight delays really get under my skin more than I want them to. I missed a flight in Greece because I got to the gate 19 minutes before departure* and they told me "tough luck". Then I had to pay for a hotel & taxi & the difference in fare, and I forfeited a ferry ticket.

    But all of the planes I've had recently have been delayed by 90-200 minutes.... And.... "We're sorry" is all that they offer.

    Ok, today I got a voucher for a (surprisingly good) sandwich. That was a nice touch.

    But mostly it's a terribly lopsided equation and that rankles me.

    If flying weren't freaking amazing and convenient, I would eschew it completely. I'd love to see more boats and trains available. Even if they're slower, they're better for many trips.

    Onward and upward, I hope.

    *I was late because the preceding flight was 1:59 late in departing. Turkish Air would have had to pay out if 2:00 hours late. What a convenient coincidence for them, no?    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Rainy landingRetire, and skydive

    New Record!! & Interesting Immigration

    7. marraskuuta 2023, Mauritius ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Ooooh!
    I'm now 18,119km from where I was born!
    20,010 is the max possible (on earth).
    Very few populated places are further away, maybe a part of Southern Madagascar, definitely some islands south of here. *Everything* else is closer. I find this idea fascinating. Am I alone in that fascination?
    If you care to find your antipode, you can look here:
    https://www.geodatos.net/en/antipodes

    Pretty nifty.

    Somewhat related....
    In this modern world, I wonder why I am handwriting not one but two forms for immigration.

    I strongly suspect that when they scan my passport it gives them almost all the info that I'm writing. Maybe the data entry gives someone a job?

    It's crazy to me how in just a few years (ok, decades) we've gone from *everything* being paperwork and forms to being surprised to need a pen.

    That said, the immigration here in Mauritius seems really well organized compared to many small nations... So far.

    And apparently one can retire with favorable conditions, according to the giant billboard.

    Curious: at immigration, and again at the health check (2nd form) and at duty free, and even to get a SIM card ... They all insisted on the importance of having the full address and phone number of where I'm staying. I wonder why? I don't think I've ever experienced that before. Sure... Immigration usually asks for a hotel, but leaves it at that. No harm done, just unusual.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Current vibe
    A break in the rain this morningBreakfast of championsVolunteers, to help w/ breakfast

    Cats and Dogs

    8. marraskuuta 2023, Mauritius ⋅ 🌩️ 79 °F

    I was keen on hiking today.

    Despite knowing it would be muddy, I was planning to go. Then the rain restarted and still, I thought, I can deal with this. But lightning? Deal-breaker.

    I've promised a few people I will avoid specifically life-threatening scenarios and last night's drive was life threatening enough for a while.

    Phooey.

    I guess today is a rest-and-plan day. Those are important too.

    Speaking of last night...

    Holy Moly!
    My flight delays meant I was stuck driving at night, in a foreign land. Not my favorite.

    But!
    I had failed to learn that Mauritius is among the zany countries who drive in the left lane. Yikes! I have driven a Right Hand Drive car before but never left-lane... And I do not like it.
    The turn indicators are maybe the biggest challenge.

    Night. RHD. Left Lane. ... And rain. Ok. I can do this!

    Then the rain redoubled, nay, requadrupled its efforts. The amount of water falling was impressive, but what had me concerned was the amount of water on the road. At several points it was a hand's breadth high. Enough to fully obscure any lane markings, reflectors, or rhe road's edge. At one point it was much, much higher. I definitely should NOT have driven through it, but once the headlights are underwater, stopping isn't a solution. The little KIA performed admirably. I was ... Distressed. So were other people: police/fire were out in force. Various cars along the way were broken down after large puddles. There were sand bars in the highway where high water had retreated before I arrived. Heavy.

    So my "one hour" drive (50km, 30 miles) took over 2.5 hours and at points I was using google maps to drive. Not just navigate, but actually see curves in the road which were invisible under the flowing water as I crept along at a walking speed. I'm grateful that I spent some time at the airport getting a local SIM card.... Doing that drive without data would have been even more miserable.

    Quite the introduction to a new country.
    I didn't see much as I was white knuckling most of the way.

    And to think, at one point I nearly opted to rent a scooter for the week instead of a car! That would have been safer in the sense that I would have simply given up at the late arrival and stayed somewhere near the airport. My tolerance for risk isn't *that* high. Dangerous is only "fun" when I think I have a good chance of surviving.

    So...
    Here I am today, chillin'
    Waiting for weather.

    At least I'm safe and dry and have food and internet. Life is good.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja

    Sunset

    8. marraskuuta 2023, Mauritius ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    I barely caught some color in the sky. Finding a sunset viewing perch around here isn't as easy as I thought it would be. My bad.

    I did enjoy a tasty thai dinner. That was fun.
    Also more flooded roads. Not so fun.

    Funny how my memory of Mauritius will be so defined by flood/rain whereas surely most people don't have this experience at all. It's a good reminder that our own experience at any given moment is always just a tiny snapshot of "How Things Are" and that we do well to keep that in mind as we move through life.    Lue lisää

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Park Closed
    Nice viewPretty figWaterfallDirt! And me.Pretty tropical forestDirt! Of 7 colorsCoffee! Really good coffeeAldabra TortoisesPretty songbird

    7 Colored Lining

    9. marraskuuta 2023, Mauritius ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    My plans for today were cancelled due to trails being closed. The heavy rains have caused slides and the park service is protecting the trails from erosion. I am glad to see that level of intelligent management but bummed out that I won't be hiking what are purported to be beautiful routes.

    But every cloud has linings. Last night's rains made for a lovely sunset (just barely) and today's closure made me refocus and now I'm enjoying perfect weather (warm, humid, breezy) with big fluffy clouds as I sip a coffee and look at the 7-Colored Earth Geopark.

    Colorful dirt. But in a good way. The iron-oxides and aluminum-oxides repel each other and form pretty bands of color. The surrounding forest looks healthy and lush. Birds flit through. There's a spectacular waterfall overlook. They have some Aldabra Tortoises (big, pretty, kinda sad in the tiny fenced space). The hike is not much of a challenge but the experience is probing pleasant and I see storm clouds massing... So maybe being around pavement instead of a couple hours away on a muddy trail is a great thing?

    It must be. This is my life, and my life is pretty great.

    You can read more about the tortoises here: https://www.chamarel7colouredearth.com/tortoise…    Lue lisää

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Blue Bay
    MangrovesWater and mountains is MauritiusAirport pain aux chocolat (with almonds!)The fun routeDodos. Endemic to Mauritius until humans screwed the pooch. But they're still a mascotGiant statues abound. Very Indian OceanMy 1st Birthday Present!

    Blue Bay

    14. marraskuuta 2023, Mauritius ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Afternoon flights are tricky- one doesn't want to waste a day but one also does not want to embark on an adventure that could mean missing one's flight, doesn't one?

    One does
    Or doesn't
    I've lost track.

    Today's mini adventure was snorkeling in Blue Bay. I didn't break out the gopro, alas. The snorkeling was quite good. The coral reef looks like it has been healthier in the past, which makes me sad. I have to assume that scads of tourists kicking around with who-knows-what sunscreen* or soaps on their skin, as well as the outboard motors on the boats could be coupled with bleaching and acidification to make it hard to be a coral.

    Which could make me sad if I spend too much time thinking about how much our beautiful world is being degraded.

    But!

    There were abundant large fish to enjoy and I swam with a turtle. Better still, I got to show off the turtle to Nikki, my travelling companion for today. I think I like sharing marine turtle sightings as much as doing the sighting (I've seen a few by now).

    So the snorkel was a success!

    And it's only about 15 min to the airport, and they even had showers at the public bathroom on the beach. Truly a perfect way to fill some time en route to the plane.

    *Reef safe sunscreen is important. Please use it. Here's why:
    https://savethereef.org/about-reef-save-sunscre…    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Rooftop solar fixes grid issues

    Bruce! And Energy Shedding

    15. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    After an easy flight I am very happy to back in the company of my pal Bruce. He fetched me at the airport and we had a small bite to eat before driving through the dark streets of Johannesburg to our Airbnb.

    I haven't seen enough of South Africa to know much of anything beyond:

    A) It's a lot cooler than my last several months, that's for sure!

    B) in a city plagued by violence and crime, they shut off public lighting and traffic signals occasionally in an attempt to shed electrical loads as the grid is overburdened.

    Light often means safety.... And this situation has a lot of room to be better. Our airbnb has rooftop solar + storage. No load shedding impact = better grid and certianly a nicer experience. Rooftop solar makes grids more resilient if done properly.

    But we made it very safely to our lodging and spent a little time discussing plans for the next few exciting days. Today we are off to Kruger park to see beautiful things!    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Giraffes
    Impala and her lambArcheological site that you need an (armed) guide to visit, because: predatorsSteve & Bruce1HornbillBaby Elephant!!!!Big elephants

    Kruger Day 1

    15. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    HOLY SAFARI BATMAN!

    When Bruce suggested we start the trip with a safari in Kruger National Park, I figured: "Seems fun. We might see some neat animals."

    I grossly underestimated how much I'd enjoy this experience. The first hour included watching three young giraffes munch on some shrubbery, from about 2 carlengths away, then 4 separate elephant sightings - each progressively more exciting until two very large elephants walked within a meter of the side of the road on either side of the car. I am reminded that elephants may look cute and gentle but... I would really not want to upset one. They're enormous and strong and I don't think automotive sheet metal would do much vs meter-long ivory spears.

    Our arrival time couldn't have been better: we were watching ancient megafauna with magic-hour lighting and the roar of cicadas as a soundtrack.... Magical. My words aren't nearly capturing the majesty nor my enthusiasm... And my phone did its best but I'm wishing I had an SLR with a telephoto.

    Still..... Better to be here with the critters and no camera than with a camera and no critters, right? Right.

    Oh!! I nearly forgot!!! Baby elephants are the cutest thing. Period. Adorable.

    A day-old impala lamb is also a sweetheart... But not nearly as personable.... And personality goes a long ways.

    I'm very fortunate to wrap up my 40s this way.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    2This is 50
    Post coital photo shootSunriseOur guide telling us about mudLook! Wildlife!HipposLion PornHippo River

    Breakfast Hippos

    16. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Sitting at the Letaba Lodge enjoying a fantastic breakfast, I casually look over to see some hippos basking in the sunny river.

    Later, I offhandedly mention the small herd of wildabeast and the herd of impala that are trotting around near two warthogs. Warthogs are much larger than I expected them to be.

    It's a little ridiculous how quickly we (ok, I) become accustomed to seeing exotic wildlife.

    In my defense, I've had "once in a lifetime" experiences a lot recently. This morning at sunrise I watched a pair of lions mating from about 5-10 meters distance (2 car lengths) - something uncommon enough that our two guides were snapping pictures right alongside us, their rifles forgotten behind the car seat. More than once the male looked over at our open-air landcruiser pickup and locked eyes with someone, myself included... It seemed clear to me that we are alive because he chose for us to be here and no other reason. That's always a humbling moment.

    We stopped for a snack on a bluff that was 10M above and less than 20M away from four enormous hippos. The river in which they lay meandered in each direction with sinuous curves and sparkling waters. A dozen elephants slowly worked their way across and up a slope. There's a giraffe across another river from me now. The wildabeasts are mostly out of view, but still nearby. Birds abound.

    I'm besotted by a european bee eater I've seen a few times - brilliant turquoise and an eye-mask. Hornbills have gobs of personality. Even the starlings are a technicolor dream compared to their drab cousins in my day-to-day life.

    Someone asked me a while ago: "How will you spend your 50th?"

    And I had absolutely no inkling that I'd be on safari in South Africa with a friend I met in Spain, after swimming with sperm whales off of Mauritius last week..... But so far it feels like a great way to kick off the next half of my life.

    Nobody knows what tomorrow may bring.... If there's one lesson I've learned on this trip so far: you have to look if you want to find the amazing parts. They're almost always there but that doesn't mean that they're obvious.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    1Impala Leaping
    Blue WildabeastBig fella. Not friendlyA nice bottleImpala venison steak is yummySnoozing in the road, too lazy to pee elsewhereVervet Monkey, fairly tameOwl

    Game Abounds

    16. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    The afternoon was mellow, we took a drive to Satara Camp, enjoying impala leaping, zebra grazing, giraffe, a plethora of birds, wildabeast, and an abundance of gorgeous views.

    We got maybe a bit closer than comfortable with a big bull elephant in musth. He postured some but seemed to back off. We left quietly.

    Because it was available, we booked a night tour at 8pm. Dinner was necessarily brief and we only had part of a nice bottle of wine to celebrate my birthday. It was more fun to load into an open air truck and go seeking wildlife than to eat and drink. Maybe I'm getting old after all? Or maybe just wiser.

    Sightings at night included hyeena, lions, a civet, ungulates, an owl, and a bazillion stars. What beauty!

    By the 10pm finish I was wrecked but happy and wrapped the evening with a quick call to thank Mom for having me.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Not under arrest, I promise

    More Sexy Time

    18. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    Up pre-dawn again. I'm fortunate that Mauritius was two hours ahead: waking at 4AM isn't that tough with mild jet lag.

    We jumped in the open-air landcruiser pickup and enjoyed a colorful crepuscular drive to stroll through the bush near Pretoriuskop Camp.

    Aside: this has been the least attractive of the three camps. Still nice, just ... Less nice. The on-site restaurant is a fast food joint vs. a beautiful restaurant with a river view.

    So we walked through dewy grasses, enjoying some natural history lessons for a couple hours. Along the way we saw rhino footprints and a huge midden, but no rhinos (yet?). We did get uncomfortably close to a bull elephant. Without the protection of a car (which probably wouldn't do much) it feels a lot.... Less safe. Exciting. A good dose of humility.

    I particularly enjoyed watching the struggles of a dung beetle (see vid) as it toiled along rolling an enormous burden on top of which sat his mate. There's a metaphor there.

    And we saw some millipedes wrapped up in sexy time. I think that they froze when we disturbed them, sorry guys!

    The whole walk was lush and green. You can feel the life all around you. What a beautiful start to a good day!    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    African BuffaloGiraffeLeopardHeronThere is a hippo in the river

    Leopard

    18. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    What a treat!

    Leopards are beautiful, big, powerful.

    Even seeing it casually lounging in the shade it is obvious that it's an apex predator.

    That it also decided to trot across the road directly in front of me? Delightful! Wow!

    Other highlights: close with a buffalo (who was very accommodating about good poses), a giraffe just off the road who also posed a few times, and beautiful scenic views of mountains and plains. Oh! And a crocodile and hippo in the river.

    With exotic wildlife this abundant, there were a few times where I almost felt blase. Honestly we didn't even slow for at least 10 herds of impala. But seeing a giraffe wobble-walk ungainly to reach for juuust the right leaf, or the heave of a lion's belly while napping, or paying attention to the cracked skin of a hippo; it only takes an extra moment and I know I'll treasure these memories later.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Good RoadsPink Butcher BbqThere are monkeys on the roadsideBoabab trees are fun

    Eswatini

    19. marraskuuta 2023, Swazimaa ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Another place I didn't even know existed!

    Ok, that's only mostly accurate. Eswatini is a sovereign kingdom that is bordered by Mozambique on one corner and South Africa on 3 sides. It's a little smaller than Kuwait and a little bigger than The Bahamas or Monaco.

    I'd heard of Swaziland before, and that was once the name recognized for this tiny but beautiful country. It, like most colonial stories, is complicated. It was a British colony from 1903 to 1968 and is now Africa's last absolute monarchy.

    We drove in around late-lunchtime and couldn't find a decent option that wasn't just meat. Based on our informal survey of three eateries, a common approach is to have a butcher and a pit bbq alongside one another. Patrons buy a chunk of flesh and either tip someone to cook it or have access to the brai (bbq) to cook it themselves.

    We ended up having a delicious lunch at the Piggs Peak Hotel, instead. Fancy hotel where they offered a 50 rand carwash while we ate (less than $3). The food was fantastic.

    We carried on through rugged highlands with soaring views of blue hazy mountains, sparkling reservoirs, and surprisingly good roads. The homes seem well built (concrete, metal roofs, usually painted, well kept) and the people with whom we interact have been friendly, helpful, and comfortable speaking English. The official language is swahili, but signs and billboards appear mostly English.

    We found a place online called RedBerry and chose it for the views and good reviews. Our hosts are very pleasant and the views are special. The weather so far is perfect sub-tropical highlands: cool enough that pants and a light sweater feel good but warm enough that almost anything will work.

    I'm enjoying the sounds of birdsong while I try not to be annoyed by the cacophony of dogs barking throughout the valley. The grass is dewy, the vista is misty, and I'm catching up with some writing and photo edits while I sip instant coffee that's good enough.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Resort rooms built to mimic traditional hutsFlowersFlowersViews aboundSecret ExitThe plateauFlowers!Taking it all inCool lichen rockChillPeacock

    Sibebe Rock

    19. marraskuuta 2023, Swazimaa ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    The largest rock in the world is Uluru in Australia (which is not accessible to climb).

    The second largest is directly underneath me.

    Sibebe Rock is a beautiful hike up from a river valley onto a green plateau with wildflowers and big rounded lichen-dotted boulders.

    The hike up and across offers views of the 3 billion year old granite face. If this were in California it would be lousy with climbers and while I love a good climb, I am presently glad that the beauty is bereft of other people.

    Bruce and I used a combo of apps, google, and talking to people to figure out how to do this hike, but ultimately it came together easily as a local fellow ran off to find us a guide who was happy to show us around. Marcus looked underprepared - no socks, no water- but he hustled up that mountain like it was flat ground. I consider myself pretty fot but was huffing and puffing to keep up as we clambored up the very steep slope.

    The hike included some beautiful caves, through one of which we scrambled and climbed out the back entrance. Never would have found that on our own!

    The summit offered sweeping views and a sketchy unprotected class 5 descent. Not for everyone, at all. I found myself trying really hard to NOT think about the costs and logistics of being airlifted off of a mountain in a 3rd world country into a local hospital... I have a high risk tolerance but this was definitely outside my comfort zone both in terms of unprotected rock climbing in street shoes and in terms of "what if?"

    No badness ensued.
    I did get a chance to remind myself to ask more questions of guides in the futire before blindly trusting them.

    We got some pictures, absorbed some vistas, paid our guide (about $10) and headed back to the resort that is perched on an almost-the-summit shoulder a few km back along the trail.

    The resort was a little bedraggled but has a great collection of large birds: peacocks, turkeys, and an ostrich roaming the grounds.

    We grabbed a light lunch and watched a storm cloud form and head directly towards us. Nothing motivates a hike quite like impending rain! We hustled down the steep descent, mostly following our upward track, and reached the car juuust ahead of a light sprinkle. The storm never really coalesced but the moody gray afternoon was a nice contrast to the brilliant morning sunshine.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Can You Find The Falls? (Next pic shows location)Plaque with no discernible reason for existing, here.Falls are here ->The most dangerous part was climbing past the sign. #safetythirdPretty Lizard. Possibly an agama?Less garish, still prettyComing down the root ladderBushbuck. Not a deer."It goes up?"The baboons seem to like tearing these plants up for the rootWater does pretty thingsBruce tackles a climbBrr. I'm learning to cold plunge. It challenges me.11My nest for the moment.

    Royal Natal National Park

    21. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    I wake to birdsong, which is always a pleasure.

    Truth be told, I woke at three am, begrudgingly. But I managed to take a nap again from 4-6 and woke to birdsong, sunshine on green hills, cool spring air coming in through the enormous window by my bedside, and the pleasure of a large comfortable bed.

    I like this place.
    It reminds me of other beautiful places where I've been fortunate to live, but has its own special feel as well. A little bit like mixing Carmel Valley, CA with Atenas, Costa Rica and a pinch of New Mexico. The Drakensberg Mountains are rugged and ancient and picturesque.

    My body is tired from a beautiful hike yesterday. I am feeling a hint of 'maybe this trip is ending soon', and also the accompanying sensation that I should do just a little more 'while I'm here'. This isn't the first time I have felt this way.

    I'm also feeling very fortunate to be traveling with a friend: this resort where we are staying has maybe 50 chalets but only about 5 are presently occupied, which feels a little weird and would feel lonely if I were solo travelling for this part of the adventure. I'm also glad to be sharing the hikes with a friend because it makes the hiking better.

    Yesterday's hike was up the Tugela River Gorge with the intention of getting a good look at the world's tallest waterfall. Spoiler: it wasn't a great view.

    The out-and-back hike was full of pretty water-carved rock features, magnificent vistas, proteas (the national flower of ZA), and little (30m / 100ft) cascades. It was only 16km (10 miles) but the middle portion was an absolute ass-kicker. We climbed ladders and chain ladders, clambored up muddy cliffs using roots as ladders, and spent over two hours hopping from boulder to boulder in the riverbed itself. Finding the "trail" was pure guesswork many times, and we guessed wrong, plenty.

    We did catch some awesome albeit distant views of the falls (distant as in 5km away). It's a looong drop and I'll bet that when it is really flowing strong it must be awe inspiring.

    However to say that we walked "to the falls" would be an outright lie. Sure, we got pics with a commemorative plaque, but even after seeing it twice we can't fathom why it is mounted on a rock that is several miles from the waterfall with no view. Odd.

    And so after several hours we gave up without reaching "the end" of the trail. Or maybe we did reach the end. Who knows? We did walk over 16km on a trail that is supposed to be 14km... And yet the map seemed to show that the trail continued. Then again, the map also showed that the trail was alongside the river where we could only see sheer cliffs rising several stories above the water.

    The weather was perfect, a cold plunge in the icy water felt amazing, there were birds, flowers, lizards, and baboon poop (no baboons sighted). We made it there and back through dangerous conditions with nothing worse than a few scratches while bushwhacking. Success! Just ... Not the success we had envisioned.

    I take some comfort in knowing we hiked further than several other parties who were also on the trail and that when we spoke to anyone else we all agreed it was rather confusing.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Gudu Falls
    Butterfly!Long ways down from where he was standingWildflowers!Significant Risk. #safetythird"The Crack" wonderful erosionFew things beat cold mountain skinny dipsTop of The MudslideLone ProteaGlad I brought protection. It was sunnyOne of several steep and loose chain laddersCool erosion sculptureWe thought this view magnificent... Then promptly reset our metricsOne of many laddersFinishing the Mudslide, steep.Vistas aboundAnother breath taking viewGudu Falls

    Gudu FallsTastic

    22. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Hiking to the tallest waterfall in the world yesterday proved mildly disappointing so we were admittedly approaching the Gudu Falls hike today with tempered expectations.

    I think that added to the mind-blowing beauty of the hike today. Secret to happiness: low expectations? Perhaps.

    That the hike was also strenuous made it feel like I was really earning something, and that something was a huge payout: sweeping panoramic vistas, verdant rolling hills, craggy rock walls, giant trees swaying in the wind, wildflowers, lichen... And an absolutely stunning waterfall!

    This was one of those hikes where there were ten or twelve vistas that would have merited doing the hike. We climbed chain ladders, wood ladders, roots of trees. We clambored over massive boulders. There were some high plateaus with rippling green grasses that ended in a precipitous vertigo-inspiring drop of thousands of feet, and views across valleys and gorges that made my heart swell. The hike down was adventurous and mostly followed a pretty creek that affords various lovely places to take a swim in cool water.

    I do not remember doing a better hike in the last several years. This was an A+ in every way.

    It was also the hardest 10km (6miles) I have done in along time. I love a good challenge.

    I'll let the pics and video describe the rest- I feel like superlatives fall short on describing just how much I enjoyed the sights, sounds, and smells.

    If you find yourself in the area, and are comfortable doing a very physical climb with sections of vertical rock and chain ladders: Do This Hike. Gudu Falls by way of the Mudslide and The Crack. Do it counterclockwise.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja

    Yummy Breakfast

    23. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Probably the prettiest truck stop I have ever seen. Good food, nice gardens, extensive menu, pretty knick knacks, nice restrooms.

    Shortly after, we experienced a remarkable box truck doing a 3-point turn at the top of a rise in the freeway. South Africa keeps you on your toes.Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    Pets?1Happy DogFire in the rain

    Oribi Foggg

    23. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    There is a spectacular gorge in South Africa called Oribi.

    Or at least, there are rumours.

    In my personal experience, there was a cute little macadamia and lemon farm hotel with very friendly hosts, an adorable hound dog, peacocks, and rooftop-dancing monkeys at about dawn.

    Other highlights include a tasty vegan pizza at a cute n funky diner, a crackling campfire made for us by Armstrong, named after the astronaut, and a dazzling lightning display with torrential rain.

    All in all, a wonderful place even without being able to see the gorge very well.

    And a good reminder: "adversity" can be opportunity. If we hadn't had load shedding turn off the power, we probably wouldn't have thought to enjoy a campfire outside in the rain. But we did, enjoy it, very much.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    The VowsBeach House ViewDroolworthy CruiserI like Lighthouses

    Morgan Bay

    24.–26. marrask. 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    After a while in the highveld and mountains, it felt like time to get into the sea as well. Bruce has an acquaintance who very generously offered the use of his beach house in Morgan Bay, so off we went!

    Very high temperatures inland drew heavy fog in from the Indian Ocean, making for a wet and gray experience. Despite that, we enjoyed a gentle 9km (5 mile) hike with beautiful views. It was a nice change of pace to do a few hundred ft of elevation gain instead of a few thousand.

    Hike highlights include: rocky beach scattered with abalone shells, watching a nice right hand point break (sure wish that there were a surfboard I could use), and the multitude of rocky cliff views.

    As we sat on a grassy overlook, Bruce spotted first several then what must have been at least 50 dolphins swimming gracefully southward. We only saw one leap out of the water but enjoyed many glimpses of the rest. I haven't seen dolphins (porpoises?) swim so close together before. It looked as if they were literally in contact with each other for much of the time. Beautiful!

    In the afternoon we got to see a local wedding (sounded like a lot of fun) then had nice meal while Bruce tried to explain how rugby works.
    I still only sorta understand how rugby works. I can see, however, why rugby fans say: "[soccer] is a game for gentlemen, played by hooligans; rugby is a game for hooligans played by gentlemen." Rugby seems like controlled mayhem. I can see why it is popular.

    Due to extraordinary circumstances, aforementioned high temperatures, incompetemce and corruption ZA has a serious electricity problem. The state-run energy company is using rolling blackouts to address this problem and is now in Stage Six. Not having power for 8-12 hrs in a given day is a serious bummer. They need more solar and better conservation campaigns.    Lue lisää

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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesMatkaaja
    1Those are not mangos1

    Nanaga Fruit Stand

    26. marraskuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Generally, I enjoy fruit stands.

    While travelling I find them doubly interesting because I eat a lot more fruit in my 'normal' life than I get at most restaurants, and because fruit stands/food shopping always offer a glimpse into how life works in other cultures.

    Unsurprisingly, this South African fruit stand was very similar to what I'd get in California. Except that the local fruit was stone fruits, pineapples, lichi, and enormous guava: not what I'd expect in California at all.

    The woman offering free samples seemed very entertained by me. I can be funny, but I suspect I am enjoying the same accent-bonus that a South African might get in the States.

    I'm cool with that.    Lue lisää

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