Tanzania
Mntindili

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    • Day 154

      *meow*

      May 19, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Oh this cat! Around a month ago she was brought here from the other manager's home in order to catch some mice around the administration building, although being advanced in pregnancy. But directly in the beginning she disappeared and gave birth to her cubs in some hidden place. Not surprising considering the two to seven dogs strolling permanently around our premises.
      A few days after she reappeared but nobody was able to tell where the kittens were hiding. For many days we even didn't know if she still was feeding them because in our understanding she spent way too much time around the main cottage begging for food and just sleeping on a pillow. And she seemed to keep her milk. Later she got quite annoying and scavenged for days and days around the main cottage, peeked in every corner, under every part of the straw roof, meowing desperately as if in search for her babies. She also got more attached to us, demanding love and cuddles.
      We suspected that she stopped producing milk as her teats appeared to be empty. She had a favourite place under the roof where she constantly went during her searches and where I managed to crawl once but I did not find any traces of offsprings. Finally, we decided that her little ones must have been looted or that she rejected them.
      She calmed down and somehow decided to hang out most of her time with me now. Wherever I walk around the lodge, she follows me like a dog and keeps dancing between my legs so that I have to take care not to step on her or to kick her around occasionally. She likes to fall back and then, full of energy, she speeds like a cheetah, rushes up a tree next to me just to jump down again and meow at me.
      For a few days now she follows me into my cottage in the evenings and, after cleaning her coat and also licking my fur, she curls up into a warm ball of cosiness on my pillow, just between my shoulder and my ear, having no problem to stay there for 12 hours.
      Once she brought me a tick as a present and I burned it satisfyingly until it released a delightful "pff". We like each other. Apart from souvenirs from the bush she is very clean and good-smelling! She chases off any single dog or other cat and tries to disturb my telephone conferences in every manner by purring into the mic. During her most affectionate greetings she looks straight into my eyes, puts her ears to the side, her paws around my neck and attacks me by chewing and ripping on my beard and gently biting into my chin. Or is she actually trying to kill me? What a wonderful, delicate, mysterious, tiny, little creature! But, our claw-free adventure might soon be interrupted by some interesting news from the embassy ...

      Meanwhile I read some pages in "Born Free" by Joy Adamson where she describes episodes of a lioness being released into Kenya's wilderness and producing cubs there. In Joy's detailed narrations the lioness behaves quite similarly to my cat at hand - also seeming not to produce any milk during the early weeks while spending a lot of time in camp - and I have the feeling that our kitty still might be hiding her little monsters somewhere and that she's just a professional in deceiving all of us.
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    • Day 151

      Bday

      May 16, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Means breakfast day! I get surprised in the morning with my beloved avocado eggs having two candles on top, with bean upgrade and coriander, guava juice and coffee! Everything is well cat-proof due to homeopathic doses of chili powder. All morning staff and the dogs join the visit and I start the day with sun in my face, yay!

      Meanwhile my folks far at home gathered around video conferencing tools to sing nightly Geburtstagsständchen and a warm-hearted friend of the Scotch Schölling family even composed a bagpipe song for me. Awesomeness! =)

      For lunch Jutta and Gerd from Lushoto join us. They arrived with Uwe and two Italian cyclist who also travel around the world for 6 years already. We have pizza with cheese crust and some beers in the sun. Dinner preparation is defined by a huge pierogi manufacturing chain. Yum, what a tasty day! From Dagmara I get a nice wooden carving of my Land Cruiser :-D
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    • Day 138

      Cave hike

      May 3, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      This Sunday is hiking day and we explore some caves north of Mambo. Far more impressive are the great views we get from the rocks above the caves!

      Unfortunately during the hike one of the dogs tries to snack a sheep and we are forced to buy it from the owner. At the lodge it gets treatment and joins Dolly, the other sheep which has been attacked by a dog before. Two days later while trying to perform in home officing I will be going to witness sheep legs, a sheep's head and sheep ribs being carried through our premises. Dolly is alone again.Read more

    • Day 96

      Perfectly in time for a short rhyme

      March 22, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      I arrive at 1,810 m just in time for the sunset! A dog approaches and whispers something with a ladyish voice in Polish to me. Wahhhhoo, whoat? Okay, behind the fur there is the lodge's owner hiding :D

      The village of Mambo killed my time schedule because its "roads" are so narrow and washed out that some locals had to bend a wooden fence in order for me to get through and at the end they even had to lift the protruding roof of a house because of my stuff on the rack. We all had fun =)

      Shortly after arrival I get an e-mail from the German embassy in Dar that the Foreign Office organised two retrieval flights for Tuesday afternoon. One from Mombasa and one from Zanzibar. If I wanted to get out of the country, I would have to decide until tomorrow morning. Mombasa is closer but the border impenetrable. And what would happen with the car? Cheese!
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    • Day 98

      Mambo

      March 24, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Here at the lodge they constantly employ some 17 villagers (as long as there are tourists ...) and whenever renovation work has to be done they make use of their professionals' network and rotate additional employees weekly in order to give others the chance to also earn some money. Most supplies are acquired in Mambo, water comes from the forest and power brings the sun.Read more

    • Day 99

      Home office?

      March 25, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

      Fight nature with nature: Toast à la Cheesus with onions, garlic, aromatic habanero and tomato for lunch (germ-free zone), polska szarlotka in the afternoons (Dagmara knows her business!), coffee all around the clock und nen guaden Grappa for sun set. Our night watchman patrols with a
      small brown sheep and the bush baby in the nearby tree always has an eye on me. Doesn't sound like the end of the world, does it?
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    • Day 100

      Back in time 30 million years

      March 26, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

      Since March 22nd I’m relaxing here on the spot and preparing my mind for the dawning apocalypse. Today I break out for a hike into Shagayu Forest Reserve (part of Usambara mountains) with the local guides Joseph and David accompanied by five dogs from the camp, of which three are Dagmara’s imported stray dogs from Morocco (all Poles I know are crazy about dogs!). We accomplish more than 21 km within seven hours and again I feel the past three months of sitting behind the driving wheel. Back home I will have to order a replacement element for my left knee on eBay :-P

      The path leads us from Mambo through monotonous pine and eucalyptus forests which have been planted by Germans and/or Brits during colonial times, primarily to obtain fast-growing firewood and building material. Already back then the natives’ settlement pressure was intense in this fertile and smoothly-climatised region that the whites feared to loose more and more of the precious, pristine rain forest. This is why they erected a wall of eucalyptus trees to denominate a border between cultivated land and the Shagayu forest which has been declared a forest reserve during the nineteenhundrets. This tree wall persists until today and looks somewhat strange. The locals say that this system still works pretty well as they are allowed to gather firewood from the pine and eucalyptus plantations any time whereas from the primary forest they may only collect dead wood which indeed is strongly controlled by the current government. At least they seem to have realised that this old forest is the only source for fresh water during the dry season. It even sources water during droughts when it does not rain for two years in a row!

      This "firewood thing" is really a problem. Tanzania is poor and has a huge population which uses wood and charcoal for cooking and heating all year long. Getting a hot shower in rural areas involves firing an oven. But in Zambia it is even worse! There the water reservoirs are depleting which also leads to hydro power shortages and whole Zambia’s economy and life seems to be concentrated around “where do I get firewood and where do I get charcoal?”. Even in Lusaka we experienced power cut-offs from early morning till the evening and running water was not available from 9 am to 3 pm. In their fuckin’ capital they cook daily lunch on charcoal! Here in Usambara mountains 30 % of the ladies are carrying veggies on their head and 70 % are carrying ... firewood. By the way, I don’t see any guys working here. They are just hiding or sitting around on crappy Chinese motorbikes (they say that they fall apart after one year).

      So, back to Shagayu forest: it’s nice, you should go there. Don’t fear any leopards, they don’t come any more.
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    • Day 103

      Pa pa!

      March 29, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Didn't expect to having been talking and thinking a whole week in Polish during this trip. After seven nights camping deluxe I say "Pa pa!" to my new family at the heaven's gate and descend via Lushoto (stopping for cheese, local coffee and jam) in direction to Mkomazi National Park which is north "just around the corner". The whole day submerges into a melancholic atmosphere. Why did I leave? Will I return one day? Maybe even very soon ...Read more

    • Day 128

      Caught in the mist

      April 23, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      A week ago I arrived back home in Mambo where I moved into a tiny cottage. Every day I wake up at 0630 to glimpse in the direction of Kili but Kili is hiding most of the time and I fall asleep again. The night guard fires up the water oven after 0700 and I can enjoy a hot shower some 30 mins later. Most of the time I am covered in clouds and it is quite fresh (below 20 Celsius) with full air humidity which makes all bed sheet and things moist. Rainy season at its high tide, there is no escaping. One sunny day I had where I planted a small pine tree next to the main building.

      On sunday I was put on the waiting list of a Dutch repatriation flight to Amsterdam which is leaving today. I obviously did not get a seat and also I was very disappointed with the communication flow because the notifications have been sent yesterday where I would not have been able to get back to Dar in time anyway. Told this to the embassies on Tuesday already ...

      Two times I was asked to pull Philipp out of the mud as he got stuck with the organisation's car. That was fun! My Toyota is a tank and simply does not care about clumsy terrain. Philipp is a German volunteer working for the local NGO JamiiSawa in establishing a water board for the whole Usambara mountain region because the current situation is pretty chaotic (fucked up I would name it). He is surveying data about water sources in the forest, pipelines and about reservoirs and pumps near the villages. As destiny calles for me, I help him to bring all the geodata together in QGIS and will make another GIS warrior out of him. He did not realise yet but he is very motivated in working on his new profession :-D He studied industrial engineering in Braunschweig (lol) and is subscribed to an online master's of environmental systems in Berlin now. I am slowly soaked into the activities of JamiiSawa as well.

      We made pierogi twice and today we are working on the third badge, this time with cabbage. For lunch there is barszcz ukrainski and the next days gołąbki will complete our menu. There is no way to stop Dagmara in her business. I just got freshly baked cinnamon rolls served =)
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    • Day 137

      Strange creatures everywhere

      May 2, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Days pass by like pieces of a bar of chocolate. I didn’t have good chocolate for months though! Two weeks since I returned here and in a few days I have to extend my visa again. I can spend a whole day chasing the dogs or petting the cat, watching the clouds or letting a chameleon climb from my sleeve through the beard on my head. Strange creatures everywhere. Lizards eating spiders half of their own size, for example. In the invasive black wattle trees I found a caterpillar carrying several tiny, vertical cocoons on its back. Nobody knew what that was. I did some research. It turns out to be a caterpillar which has been blessed by a parasitoid wasp of the Braconidae family. Theses wasps lay eggs under the skin of caterpillars. The larvae then feed on the caterpillar’s juices while the caterpillar keeps marching on and harvesting the plants of his desire. Finally, the larvae exit his body and build their cocoons on his outside while he continues his daily business. Here we go. I put the caterpillar in a box and made him my experiment. His name is Donald.

      Meanwhile I planted a few more trees and enjoy the extraordinary food. Eggs on home-made bread, tomatoes and cheese, tons of bush avocado, local orange marmalade, fresh juices and cereals with yoghurt for breakfast. Spinach pies, Polish gołąbki, self-made pasta or potato salads and rich soups for lunch and/or dinner. Banana or guava bread with coffee and chai masala in between.

      One day Jutta and Markus on two German KTM motorbikes came for a coffee. They travel "from north to south", stay in Lushoto right now and were on a day trip around the mountains. As it gets colder Philipp and I spend the evenings at the fire and I regularly use my oven in the cottage. I like to sit in my bed and do crappy stuff on the computer, like writing this blog post, while listening to Stevie Ray Vaughan, Steve 'n' Seagulls, Snarky Puppy or Slagsmålsklubben ;-) Now and then I support the local organisation with geodata expertise and empower the people with QGIS. Preferably also from my bed office. On Monday I will restart working remotely in Germany in far-from-home-office style. Exciting!
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