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  • Dzień 1

    Heading to the SW US

    15 maja, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    The planning for this trip started nearly a year ago when an invitation to a destination wedding arrived. Richard's nephew, Hayden and his fiancee Katie get married on Friday near Zion National Park!!

    Boone was not thrilled with our 3AM alarm! 😆 He will be much happier when he sees" his Luke" coming through the front door to stay with him while we are gone.

    We arrived in Vegas this morning where we picked up our rental and our hitchhiker for the trip - Chuck (Richard's older brother).
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  • Dzień 21

    Our Full Circle

    22 maja 2023, Irlandia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    This morning found us on the road from Belfast heading towards Dublin, completing our drive around the island. We have driven over 2000 miles in our 21 days of touring the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland.

    Leaving Belfast, we saw many more murals. Most were of a political nature, but one was interestingly about the Titantic. As we approached C. S. Lewis Park, there were a lot of murals relating to The Narnia storyline and the park has several statues of characters from these books. 

    Our next stop was in County Down and the gravesite of St. Patrick (c. 387 - 461) at the Down Cathedral. Legend says he died in the 5th century and was buried here on the highest peak. Alongside of St. Patrick, are St. Brigid (c. 451 – 525) and St. Columcille (or St. Columba) (521 - 597), placing Ireland's three most important saints in one place.

    “In Down, three saints one grave do fill,
    Patrick, Brigid and Columcille.”
    -- a rhyming translation of Latin at the time the burial site was discovered in the 10th century.

    The cathedral was not built here in the 11th century and in the early 1900's, a large piece of granite was placed on top of the gravesite to protect the site. The stone was quarried nearby and took 12 men 14 days to cut! If you zoom in on the photo, you just can see where the name "Patrick" is engraved into the stone.

    A quick stop at Monasterboice was next. This site is known for it's three, 10th century high crosses. The photo shows Anna in front of the Muiredach's High Cross. This 5.5 meter cross is known as the finest high cross in Ireland. It is covered in carvings that tell stories from both the Old and New Testaments.

    Off to Bru Na Boyne (Valley of the Boyne), a UNESCO World Heritage Site just to the north of Dublin. Newgrange, Knowth, and Dowth (which we did not visit) are prehistoric passage tombs built in the bend of River Boyne. They date to circa 3200BC, making them older than Stonehenge or the pyramids!

    Our guided tour (the only way you can visit these sites) began at Knowth. This is the largest of the 3 passage tomb sites and is surrounded by 18 smaller tombs. While Knowth is unstable to go inside, we could walk on top of the 1.5 acre site. Seems a bit contradictory to me, but up the steps I went. Richard's knees were "done for" by this point, and he sat and waited for us while admiring the beautiful view of the valley. Knowth is surrounded by large stones covered in megalithic art and is oriented towards a spring and autumn equinox.

    At Newgrange, you can enter the tomb. It was really amazing inside, but we were not allowed to take photos. Our group had about 10-12 so it's a good size inside. There was a demonstration of how the winter solstice light fills the chamber. The knowledge they had to align the construction to corralate with the soltice is stunning. Scroll down to the Newgrange section on this link to see an image of the inside! https://www.ireland.com/en-us/things-to-do/attr…

    When setting up our trip, we found a great little working farm in the Boyne Valley we booked for our last night in Ireland. The farm house is 300 years old, and the farm is full of sheep, goats, cows, a pig, and all sorts of birds. Alison, the owner, uses the wool from the sheep on the farm to make her own yarns, which is turned into beautiful items to sell in her onsite shop. Once it is cold enough in NC again, you will see what I bought! I

    After shopping, we finished up our last evening watching all the critters and getting our bags repacked to head out the next morning for the Dublin airport and the trip home.

    While it was sad to leave, it was time to come home! The trip was everything we had hoped it would be and then some. Of course, there were a few things that didn't go as planned, but the alternatives filled the gaps magnificently. 

    The very last photo was taken before we landed on May 3 and shows our trip coming full circle as we visit/stay in the place we first saw upon our arrival. ☘️💚
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  • Dzień 20

    BIG Ships, The Troubles, and some TRAD

    21 maja 2023, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    We were up fairly early to grab a taxi to take us to the Titanic Museum. This was a really interesting and well done museum about a topic that is often overdone. In the early 1900's, Belfast was known the world over for it's ship building industry. Thus, the importance of the industry to the area is the basis for the museum. It highlights the entire process for the construction of the Titanic and her sister ship Olympic built at the same time in the next slip. When the ship is complete and sets sail, the museum has touching displys of those who were lost. In the photo of the lifejacket, you can see names listed in the background. They are of those who perished. Many regulations were changed in the industry and maritime laws because of this great loss. There is an excellent section listing out each of the changes made. The museum completes the story of the Titanic with a display and videos of the crew that eventually found her again at the bottom of the ocean. Very nicely done...we were there a couple of hours!

    Using Belfast's public transit, we stopped at the capital but were not able to go inside due to elections that were in progress. We strolled on down to The Crown Liquor Saloon, a National Trust property, where we had lunch. This is a Victorian era pub that is extremely well preserved - included several photos below. It is full of "snugs" and we had one for ourselves to eat our lunch and dessert! They were originally for the "upper crust" so they did not have to mingle with the regular people in the bar.

    A "Black Taxi" met us when we finished lunch to take us to do a political tour of Belfast. This was full of murals and stories of the years of The Troubles and how it is, to this day, a bit of a tenderbox in spite of it being the 30th anniversary of the Peace Deal. There are over 21 miles of Peace Walls in NI and are typically in ares where the working class Catholics and Protestants live close to each other. The most famous section can be found between the Falls Road/Shankill Road neighborhoods in Belfast. The gates remain and are closed at night still to this day! The murals are quite shocking to see as Americans who have never really faced this type of violance at home. In one image below, I have what appears to be the same photo twice. However, if you look closely, you will see they are taken from different angles. On the far left, in black, you can see a gun pointed in the direction of the camera -- in both photos! It is like the gunman was following us. Creapy!!

    On the Catholic side of the wall, there are homes that back up to the wall and are protected by "cages". The Bobby Sands mural is one their most famous. He was a member of the IRA who was elected as an MP at age 27 in 1981 while he was in prison. He became a matyr to the Irish republicans (those fighting for one Ireland) after he died in prison during a hunger strike that took 10 prisoners. It is a deeply complex history - the fight for Irish independence.

    One noticable difference in the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland is the use of the Union Jack and many things British. Many NI residence consider themselves to be more British than Irish. Definitely, not so in the Rep of Ireland. With the coronation having recently taken place for King Charles, III, there was lots of bunting, banners, and Union Jack flags flying. There is basically no Galic in NI and they are not part of the European Union. They are 2 very different countries with an invisible border between them. We did not even see signs as we left and entered announcing which country we were in at the time.

    We ended up at the pub across the street from where we were staying for dinner. The live traditional music they had on tap for the evening was a wonderful bonus! The Sunflower Public House, one of Belfast's most iconic because of the security cage on the front door. This is a leftover from the 80's and remains today to help preserve some of the city's history.
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  • Dzień 19

    From Ancient Stones to City Life

    20 maja 2023, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    6:00 AM. Richard woke us so we could make our way to the Giant's Causway before the masses decended upon the site. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is indeed amazing and defies description. It is an experience one must have.

    From the UNESCO website: The Giant's Causeway lies at the foot of the basalt cliffs along the sea coast on the edge of the Antrim plateau in Northern Ireland. It is made up of some 40,000 massive black basalt columns sticking out of the sea. The dramatic sight has inspired legends of giants striding over the sea to Scotland. Geological studies of these formations over the last 300 years have greatly contributed to the development of the earth sciences, and show that this striking landscape was caused by volcanic activity during the Tertiary, some 50–60 million years ago.

    After spending an hour walking the ancient site, people slowly started to arrive, so we began to make our way back to the car. Our next stop, Ballintoy Harbour (another Game of Thrones filming site), provided a little bit more of this other world landscape and a nice little port.

    Experience. Our word of the day. Our next experience was also amazing and great fun! Who has had a hawk land on their head? A hawk fly past your head so close you can feel the tips of the feathers on your face? WE DID! We spent an hour with an amazing team of Falconers - David and Jo and their boy "Cheeky Charlie", a Harris' Hawk. Did you know hawks bath in creeks, not ponds, because they can't swim? Harris Hawks are very social creatures and Charlie was free to fly anywhere he chose, but he always came back when called because of the bond he has with David and Jo.

    Learning some American history made the list of things we did in Northern Ireland. We visited the home site of Andrew Jackson's parents in the village of Carrickfergus along with the Carrickfergus Castle. Jackson's parents left NI in 1765 for the Carolina's. Jackson was born in 1767 near what is now known as Waxhaw, which is just to the south of Charlotte, NC.

    The Carrickfergus Castle is a Norman castle that was built in the prime location of being surrounded on 3 sides by water, including the Belfast Lough. It was used up through WWII when it served as an air raid shelter.

    We were a bit shocked by the Belfast we saw at our arrival. It is an industrial city and graffatti is abundant. Our B&B was in an area we considered to look "sketchy" but he people were friendly, and we had no issues while there. The fact The Troubles are not really completly in the past has led to limited rebuilding and recovery.

    Friday night in Belfast was full of loud crowds and music! Our dinner reservations were for a seafood restaurant next door to a very popular, extemely crowded pub next door. The food was wonderful, and Richard had Anna to share his oysters. Walking back to our place for the night, we skipped popping into the pubs as they all seemed to be overflowing with patrons, and the music was booming. With no AC, we had the windows open and could hear the music loudly until 11PM when it dropped to a lower level. At midnight, it stopped. Well done, Belfast! It had been a long day, and we were ready for some shut eye.
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  • Dzień 18

    Whiskey and a Hitchhiker

    19 maja 2023, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    Before leaving Derry this morning, we drove through the Bogside and looked at some of the political murals. Murals like the ones in the photos are numerous in Derry and Belfast and were all painted to educate those who did not live through The Troubles.

    We headed toward the northern coast and made our first stop at Downhill. Julie wanted to see Mussenden Temple built on the edge of the cliff. Stopping in the small village of Downhill, we were entertained by some harness racing horses and their drivers. The strand of beach offered a training ground for the horses. Still looking for breakfast at 9:30 AM and the coffee shop not opening until 10, we took the horse trainer's advice and drove up to a lookout point.

    After a lovely tea and scone bite to eat, we were off again! Arriving at Dunluce Castle, we encountered parking issues and were facing some time constraints as we soon had a tour booked to get to. Julie jumped out to go on in and get photos while Richard dealt with the car. Not realizing it, Julie entered the castle grounds with a tour group and failed to pay. 🤦‍♀️ Oops.

    Built on an outcrop of basalt rock, you reach the castle via a small bridge. It is easy to see why this spot was chosen given the views. This castle has quite a tale to tell - including the legend of part of the kitchen falling off one night and into the ocean below! This was one of the filming sights for Game of Thrones.
    More here: https://www.theirishroadtrip.com/dunluce-castle…

    That booked tour we had to get to was at Bushmills Distillery - the world's oldest licensed whiskey distillery. Records date to 1608!! The tour was very interesting. The difference in Irish Whiskey and Scottish Whiskey is the number of times it is distilled. Irish = 3 for a smoother finish. Scottish = 2 for a smokier finish. Enjoyed the tasting room at the end of the tour. 🥃

    Heading back through the town of Bushmills, we found a cute little hitchhiker and decided to invite her to join along with us. 😂 Anna, our neice, had spent the morning traveling up from Dublin to Belfast to Bushmills via train and bus. The first item on our list was the Carrick-a-Rede Bridge. This is a rope bridge 100 feet above the sea below that crosses a 60 ft chasm. The original bridge used only a single rope for fishermen to hold onto as they crossed. The views were beautiful, and we had a closer view of some of the birds nesting on the cliffs. Got a few good shots of some razorbills!

    Time for a pint! The Fullerton Arms fit the bill as we left Carrick-a-Rede. It sports a great Guinness mural on the end of the building. It also has a very special front door. In 2016, there was a storm that felled a couple of trees in the Dark Hedges, a location closely associated with The Game of Thrones. HBO and Tourism Northern Ireland decided to have the trees turned into 10 doors. They are beautifully carved doors, and one is at the Fullerton Arms.
    More info: https://discovernorthernireland.com/blog/read/2…

    After finding our B&B for the night, we had an early dinner at The Smugglers Inn. It was an appropriate stop for a couple of ECU PIRATES! 💜💛

    The coast line was so beautiful we stopped for a few more photos on the way back to our B&B.
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  • Dzień 17

    Cliffs in the Clouds

    18 maja 2023, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    After leaving our little nest of a cabin, we stopped to enjoy some early morning time at a waterfall, a drive through the mountains on our way to the highest cliffs in Ireland...the Slieve League.

    The Assaranca Waterfall flowed into a small pool below. The thing that caught my attention was a post/log that has some fairly detailed carving on it. People had shoved coins into the slits of the wood, but we have no real idea why as, we could not find anything to tell us about the post.

    The Slieve League cliffs are twice the height of the Cliffs of Moher. Good thing we went early as the longer we were there, the foggier it got, and more and more people showed up. UGH! Tourists! 😂😉 We weren't able to see the tops of the cliffs due to the fog, but it was still worth the drive out to see it.

    We returned to Donegal to see the castle and get a bite of lunch before leaving the Republic of Ireland for Northern Ireland. The city of Derry (per the Rep of Ire) or Londonerry (per Northern Ireland) is a city on the border. This is the Derry in "Derry Girls" for anyone who watched the show. Let me just say the accent from the show is for real!! As "Derry Girls" show, The Troubles (think U2's "Sunday, Bloody Sunday") were fought here as well as in Belfast. You can learn more here: https://www.history.com/news/the-troubles-north…

    Derry's history goes back long before The Troubles began, of course. It was the last fully walled city to be built (1613-1618) in Ireland and the only Irish city whose ancient walls are completely intact. The walls were built by the Irish in defense of the early settlers coming in from England and Scotland. We walked all the way around atop the wall - about a mile. A stop was made to take a selfie in front of the "Derry Girls" mural, which can be seen from the city wall. Our walk and our day wrapped up at Bishop's Gate (see photo), one of the four original gates to the city.
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  • Dzień 16

    Yeats and Fairy Bridges

    17 maja 2023, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Today began with a stop at Downpatrick Head to see Dun Briste, a sea stack with nesting seabirds, a blowhole, an old WWII lookout post, the remains of the stone aerial marker, EIRE 64 (letting WWII pilots know they were flying over Ireland) and a the remains of a church founded by St. Patrick. It was a busy stop!

    We were able to see some of the birds nesting on the cliffs here. The gillimonts look kinda like little penguins. Notice they are mostly facing the rock in the photo in order to shield themselves from the winds. The ground here was interesting as well....very "bumpy" and spongy feeling.

    We stopped by the Ceide Fields to learn more about the 5500 year old stone walls, the oldest known walled fields on earth. The site was found when a local school teacher, Patrick Caulfield, was cutting turf (peat) in the 1930's. The bog held many secrets, including a bog pine tree that fell over 4300 years ago! The low oxygen nature of the bog preserved the underground treasures. 

    We made it to Sligo for lunch. This is W.B. Yeats territory where there is a cool statue of him. North of town, we see the first sightings of the mountain Ben Bulben. This is actually a large flat topped rock formation that was once part of a large plateau. Ben Bulben sits in the background when you see W.B. Yeats' gravesite. He is buried in Drumcliff at St. Columba's Church of Ireland, where his great grandfather had once served as rector. There was a monastery founded in about 575 that used to site on the grounds. The high cross (circa 1100) and a round tower from the 10th or 11th century are now all that remains.

    As we headed out of Drumcliff, we passed Castle Classiebawn, summer home to Lord Mountbatten (great uncle of King Charles, III). He was there spending time on his boat in 1979 when the IRA planted a bomb onboard, killing him and several members of their family. 

    I got to see a few of the smaller fairy bridges. 🧚‍♀️ We were not able to work in the Bridges of Ross earlier on our trip, so I was thrilled to find these to check out. Just amazing to see they way the water shapes the earth and rock over time. 

    We saw a little of the town of Donegal before heading to Glenties for a bite of dinner, then to our little stone cottage for the night. 
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  • Dzień 15

    Stunning coastal sites

    16 maja 2023, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    We said goodbye to our "moo"bors and retraced a few of our steps from the previous day. Not a problem for us to see this landscape twice!! 

    Once we arrived back at the fjord, we did a  short hike up to the Aasleagh Falls where the Erriff River meets the fjord. This is a salmon river, but we did not see any. 😔

    Have you ever seen sheep on the beach? We did today. Well, sorta. Driving through the Doolough Valley, there were some beautiful lakes and sheep strolling the rocky lake beaches. Richard practiced his rock skipping skills out there...lots of super thin and flat rocks on this beach.

    Murrisk, a village on the southside of Clew Bay, sits at the foot of Croagh Patrick (Mt Patrick). History says St. Patrick spent 40 days atop the mountain, thus it is now seen as a holy site for many. Each year, there is a pilgrimage where thousands make the hike to the top. 

    In addition to the Crough Patrick, the National Famine Monument is here. It is a sculpture of a "coffin" ship. These were the ships that took up to 2 MILLION Irish to N. America during the famine. They called them coffins due to high death rates that ocurred on the voyages - apparently aveaged around 30%!! 😢

    We had read and heard a lot about Achill Island but had not figured out how to get there in our limited time. However, with the changes in our schedule yesterday, we had some "extra" time today to make the drive. It was quickly clear what the "hype" was all about . The water out there was some of the most beautiful shades of blue. WOW! Keem Bay is magical!

    After leaving Keem Bay, we stopped to see the White Cliffs of Ashleam Bay. I was quite distracted at this stop by the sheep who looked like he was gonna fall off the edge of the earth!

    Time to head to the lovely town of Westport for the night.
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  • Dzień 14

    "The Quiet Man", a fjord and bog lands

    15 maja 2023, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Flexibility can have great rewards! Mary, our hostess, recommended we drive out to see more of the countryside rather than spend time in the city. So, we decided to head into the country and just pop into Galway for a quick peak in the evening. Wow, are we glad we listened to Mary! 

    First stop, Cong. This is where John Wayne filmed "The Quiet Man". The town also had an abbey and a fishing house used by the monks over the Cong River. The tranquility of the place is hard to put into words. 

    The abbey was built in the 12th century, where a 7th century monastery had been. There are a few remanets of the cloisters still standing. The fishing house was built in the 15th or 16th century. Fish were a staple in the diet of the monks, so this little house made fishing in the cold a bit easier. They could use nets or the hole in the floor while they sat by a fire to keep warm!

    Heading toward the Killary Fjord, we spotted some amazing critters! The black faced Connemara Mountain Ram. Just look at those horns!! On to the fjord...created by a massive glacier. We stopped in a cute little pub in the villag of Leeann at the fjord for a pint before heading on to do more exploring!

    Our next stop was a "find". We noticed the bog fields were being cut for peat. This is essentially dead plant material that is cut into "logs" that are dried out and used for burning to heat homes in the winter. Rising heating costs are turning more people back to the use of peat to help cut their electric bills. The problem is peat is a very low oxygen, high carbon material. The bog is great for absording the carbon and only becomes a negative when used as fuel. It is an age-old tradition in rural areas. 

    As our trip continued, we passed by beautiful countryside and lots and lots of sheep! We stopped to tour Aughananure Castle, which was built in the 16th century on Lough Corrib out from Galway. There is a 1000 year old yew tree on the property! 

    We finished up our day with a drive through the City of Galway. While there is much to do and see in the city, we have enjoyed the countryside SO much more! Back to visit with our neighbors for the evening. 😊🐂
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  • Dzień 13

    Portal Tomb, Donkey and Cows

    14 maja 2023, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    After driving through some of The Burren, we decided to stop in the Burren Center to learn more about the landscape we had seen yesterday.  This moon-like looking area was created millions of years ago and is one of the six national parks of Ireland. The Irish name is An Bhoireann, which means a place of stone. In spite of this, the landscape boasts 23 of the 27 types of wild orchids that are native to Ireland!

    There are a huge number of ruins here - castle, churches, forts, you n1ame it. It is not unusual to drive by ruins on a daily basis. Today, we happened across the Leamenh Castle Ruins on the way to the Poulnabrone Portal Tomb. The dolmen was constructed from slabs of limestone some time between 4200 BC and 2900 BC.

    You will wonder why I am telling you this next bit......but, our neice, Anna (Rhonda's middle girl) decided to do a study abroad program with ECU - to Ireland! As fate would have it, we were in Ireland at the same time. Rhonda really liked knowing we were here for Anna if needed. (You know, mom's can't help but worry about their babies). Today, we figured out we were really close to each other and worked out to meet up briefly at the Portal Tomb. 😊💜

    After the brief reunion, I met another donkey when we stopped to see The Pinnacle Well, a Gothic revival well house built in the 1860's. It was originally considered to be a holy well, but now is just a spot for people like us to stop and visit. 

    We then added a martello tower to our list of sites. A martello tower was a small defensive fort. They were built mostly along the coast by the British Empire in the 19th century. We next stopped by Dunguaire Castle, which was built in 1520 as a tower house on the shores of Glaway Bay. It was bought in 1924 by Oliver St. John Gogarty (surgeon and literary figure) who repaired the property. He then turned it into a meeting place for literary greats like George Bernard Shaw, Lady Gregory, J M Synge and W. B. Yeats.

    On our way to our next B&B, we stopped at Moran's Oyster Cottage, so Richard could enjoy some more Irish oysters. This place sits back along a weir in a quiet little inlet and has been around for 250 years! After a few wrong turns on the small rural roads, we found our B&B and met our neighbors for the next 2 nights.  Mooooo! 🐂hf
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