• Jour 12

    Boats, Birds, and Burren Blooms

    13 mai 2023, États Unis ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    We woke to beautiful blue skies for our trip to the Aran Islands (think Aran sweaters). The ferry ride was about 30 minutes out to the smallest and closest of the three islands. We toured in a "pony and trap" featuring Michael and Murphy. English is a second language for Michael as Galic is the spoken language of the island natives. He was a fisherman until he had to give it up by about 70 years old. Aran sweaters were designed and worn by the fishermen and each family had their own pattern. 

    Michael taught us about the fields and rock walls that are seen throughout the island (and much of Ireland)! The green fields we see were once full of stone that had to be sledgehammered into smaller bits. These rocks then needed to be moved someplace, so they used them to build fences. On the island, after the rock was busted up and the fences were built, they had to prepare the land for planting or grazing as there was little soil. In order to create soil, they hauled in sand and seaweed for years while slowly turned into useable soil for growing. 

    After our time on the island, we rode by the Cliffs of Moher for a "closer look" tour. We weren't as close as I had hoped to be able to see the nesting birds on the cliffs. So, I decided to focus on the birds I could see out in the water. My goal was to spot a puffin! My ability to spot a bit of orange from quite the distance paid off. 😂 PUFFIN SPOTTED and photographed! I know, this image is not going to be winning any prizes except in my own mind, but I am good with that. 

    The afternoon was spent in The Burren. This is an area that was formed millions of years ago and is "a vast cracked pavement of glacial-era limestone". It also is home to "an incredible array of flowers, from native species to Artic, Alpine and Mediterranean plants"!! They use a form of farming here called "winterage" where they allow cattle to graze these hills in winter. This clears the ground of tough grass and allows flowers and such to bloom come spring. Who knew such rocky terrrain could bloom so beautifully. 

    Back in Doolin for the evening, we had an amazing dinner of blue, European lobster that was caught that morning! They are not as common as the American lobsters due to the fact they grow slower, and that leads to a tasty, more tender lobster. Best one we have ever eaten! 

    It was another really great day. 
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 11

    Starting the morning right!

    12 mai 2023, Irlande du Nord ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Starting the morning right. The local bakery, Courtney's, came highly recommended. Spot on! Scones, fresh cream filled donut, cinnamon donut, and an apple tart. 😋 No! We did NOT eat them all right away! Saved some for later. 😆

    Stopped in the church gardens across the street. Just lovely. They have a 200 year old beech tree according to Paudi ("not Paulie" we were told), the grounds keeper. Many nuns are buried under this tree as the building that now has a Catholic school was once a nunnery. The chapel has stained glass windows by Harry Clarke (1889-1931), an Irish stained-glass artist and book illustrator whose works are considered national treasures.

    We left a sunny Dingle to drive into the clouds covering the Conner Pass on our way to the Blennerville Windmill. What we thought was a photo op turned into a really interesting stop. The port here is where the Jeanne Johnson famine ship departed from for other lands (remember we saw this ship on Day 1). At 5 stories tall, this stone windmill is the largest working windmill in Ireland. The mill has been refurbished and is again operational. The miller gave us a tour and demonstrations about how it all functioned. Quite amazing. Even Richard learned something new! 🤓

    The ferry system has been grand.  We took a second car ferry trip today to cut over to the Kilkie Cliffs and Pollock Holes. This was yet another of the amazing "like another world" sites. 

    The Cliffs of Moher are one of the most famous sites and images of Ireland. The sheer cliffs are 700 ft high - second highest in Ireland and has one of the major bird nesting colonies. They are stunning to see! 
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 10

    Things don't always go as you plan...

    11 mai 2023, Irlande du Nord ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Things don't always go as you plan...the Sea Safari was cancelled (rough seas). 😢 The up side to that is we had lots of time for the Slea Head Drive! The morning started out a bit cool, gray, and windy - some real Irish weather. 😀

    First stop - Fairy Fort and critters. 🐑🐎🐐🦙 We had so much fun with the animals we kinda forgot about the fort. Stop two was Dunbeg Fort and no critters so I could focus. This fort, from 500BC, is nearly falling into the ocean as erosion wears away at the cliff. I hiked up to see some of the abandoned famine houses while Richard checked out the building that housed a restaurant. When I got back, he had found us some real Irish headgear to help complete our conversion. 😆☘️

    Somewhere between the 8th and 12th centuries, dry stone stacked huts called "beehive huts" were built. They were used mostly by monks and Star Wars film crews.

    Onward...Dunmore Beach and Dunquin Pier. This is where the less than 175 inhabitants of the Blanket Islands would row across to unload their sheep and other items to sell on the main island. This island's people were instrumental in helping the Irish language not go extinct. Today, Irish is now a required to be taught in schools and is growing in use. Learn more: blasket.ie

    Stopped for a pint at the western most pub in Ireland, Kruger's. We then continued our loop around with a stop at the Gallarus Oratory. Also built using the stacked dry stone method, it stands today exactly as it was built over 1000 years ago. There has been no need for any renovations! Amazing! 

    Back in town, we popped into Murphy's for some locally made ice cream. Oh my goodness!! Such great flavors - Brown Bread Crumble, Chocolate Whiskey, Dingle Sea Salt, and Honeycomb Caramel. 😋🍦 I know, brown bread ice cream sounds really weird, but it was delicious!

    We had enough time to drive Slea Head a second time...hoping for a little more sun. We didn't get the sunset we were hoping for, but we did stop back at Kruger's for a pub dinner. Learned about Sheep Dog peanut butter whiskey. Delicious!

    After a few hundred more photos, we arrived back in Dingle in time to hit a couple of pubs. Foxy John's is half pub, half hardware store. 😂 Then, down the street to Nelligan's for some TRAD (traditional) music to end our day. 
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 9

    A busy day - and our 15th Anniversary

    10 mai 2023, Irlande ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    ❗️Ooops ... if you were here before I finished updating everything...I have finally finished!

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    We were up early and out the door to see a stone circle and hoping to wake up the fairies! 🧚 I even got to open and close the gate in the rain so Richard could drive through.

    Driving through Moll's Gap, the Black Valley and the Gap of Dunloe was full of wonder and awe. The Black Valley was called this because it did not get electricity until the 1970's!! 😳

    Torc Waterfall in Kilnary National Park was outstanding. We were headed for a jaunty ride through the park, but I had to get a photo at Muckross Abbey. Richard did not want me to go to the abbey as he was sure we would be late for the jaunty ride. So, I hoofed it out there and back while he waited for me...and it was worth the huffing and puffing! We loved our jaunty ride (which we were on time for!!) with young Louis and horse, Francis. Louis is just 16 but is a 6th generation jaunty driver. When asked if he had a girlfriend, he said he likes the "catch and release" method. 😆

    We then went out on a boat tour of the lakes. There are 3 loughs (lakes) in the park. The most fascinating part was the copper mine that went between 2 small islands and connected under the lake!!

    After skipping over Kerry Peninsula, we headed for the Dingle Peninsula. First stop, Inch Beach, which is over 3 miles long, extending into the North Atlantic.

    Tom Crean was a member of 3 Antarctic expeditions starting in 1901 under the cammand of Capt. Robert Scott and Sir Ernest Shackleton. He was from Annascaul, a small village near Inch Beach. There is a great pub there called The South Pole Inn. Met some folks there who recommended a nearby beach. Bin Ban Beach was spectacular!

    After getting settled into our B&B, we headed out for dinner at a Michelin Star restaurant for our 15th anniversary dinner. We popped into Dick Mack's, a "famous" local pub for a pint for heading back to our B&B to wrap up our day.
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 8

    Beara Peninsula

    9 mai 2023, Irlande

    Kinsale is a town on the southern coast of Ireland that has two 17th-century forts sitting on opposite banks of the River Bandon. We planned to tour Charles fort (a star fort) but ended up at the smaller James fort. It was a beautiful spot to see the town and Charles fort, meet some pups and chat with a semi local who spent her younger years in the Tampa area.

    After leaving Kinsale, we headed for the Beara Peninsula. Many have heard of the Ring of Kerry - Beara is to the south of the Kerry Peninsula and is the least popular with tourists. That made it a perfect place for us to tour!

    This is the most incredible place to see! The untouched beauty is mind-blowing. Remote and wild, full of sheep and cows grazing and so many twists and turns on the Healy Pass. In fact, the roads actually have a story as well. During the Great Famine (1845-1851), the government used forced labor workers to build roads and paid them with food.

    After driving the peninsula, we headed to Helen's Bar for a bit of dinner and a pint. Helen herself sat us and was a delight! A cheap pint and pups inside...our kinda place. 😆

    The rain came in a bit after dinner as we headed to our stay for the night....an alpaca farm! They were adorable, and the little stone cottage was wonderful.
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 7

    Rock of Cashel to Cohb

    8 mai 2023, Irlande ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Today began with a stop on the top of a rock. A big rock! The Rock of Cashel is a cluster of medieval buildings sitting high on top of a hill overlooking the town below. Legend has it St. Patrick came here himself to convert the king to Christianity. The buildings that remain here today are mostly from the 12th and 13th centuries. Cormac's Chapel was covered by frescos -- look close at the photo below.

    We stopped by Cahair Castle but could only see it from the outside as it was closed. The park next to the castle was full of geese...and one gosling!

    The yellow fields of rapeseed are beautiful this time of year. I remember them from when we lived in England as well. They make rapeseed oil from the plant. I asked a guy at one of the places we were eating what oil they used to fry their chips (french fries), and he said rapeseed. Is it the oil or the potatoes or the place that makes them taste so good!?! 😄

    We arrived in the city of Cork in the afternoon and rang the Shandon Bells at St. Anne's Church. After the climb to the top of the bell tower (which offered great views of the city), we stopped in at the pub across the street - Jack Forde's The Shandon Arm's for a pint. The English Market was next on the list where we bought chocolate and cheese. The history of the covered market dates to the days of when the English ruled Ireland.

    Our accomadations for the night were between Cork and Cobh (Cove). The town of Cobh is "famous" for being the last stop for passengers to get aboard the Titantic and for the sinking of the Lusitania off the coast.
    It has a stunning cathedral and some great fish and chips!
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 6

    A Change of Plans

    7 mai 2023, Irlande ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We work up this morning with the most amazing view and changed our plans about what we will do today!
    Since we arrived in Waterford a bit early for our 7.30 dinner reservation last night, we had time to wander around and see a few things. From other trips, reading and watching TV, we know a good bit about the Viking history in Europe. So, instead of going back to the city of Waterford to learn more about that, we chose a cliff hike and time on the beach this morning. Heavenly!

    Hiking the cliff walk and experiencing the uniqueness of the ground...it's bouncy... was fun. Then, down to the beach for a long walk. This beach was very rocky with a small area of sand. The area is called the Copper Coast and is considered a UNESCO Global Geopark. The coast line here evolved after volcanic activity ocurred over 460 million years ago. We had a 'Poldark' moment when we came up on an old copper mine. Read more here about the geology of the area: https://coppercoastgeopark.com/copper-coast-geo…

    The weather has mostly been just what we expected - a touch of everything. The winds on the coast are crazy wild. I guess that is partly why it is called the WILD ATLANTIC WAY. The temps have been in the upper 50s and low 60s for the most part. That means the ocean waters are around low 50's. NC beach waters are more like upper 60s to mid 70s. While walking the beach we met a group of ladies who go swimming in the very cold water every Sunday! (Think 'Bad Sisters' if you watch Apple+). BURRRR!! 🥶

    It was a really lovely, slow day taking in the area. We would go back there in a minute!
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 5

    From the city to the coast

    6 mai 2023, Irlande ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Our day started off with quite the surprise. We got clamped! 😳😖🤦‍♀️ Turns out you can't park underground the apts even though there was NO sign to tell us otherwise. Our hostess was kind enough to get hold of the folks to have it removed, and we were off, delayed by less than an hour.

    On our way to the town of Kilkenny, we crossed a bridge that has been in use for 1000 years!! Crazy! Now that was obviously well built. When we arrived in Kilkenny, we discovered the riverwalk up to the castle. Made a friend. 😄🐦 Sometimes, delays can turn into positives. Sure enough, when we arrived at Kilkenny Castle an hour after our ticket time, they honored our self guided ticket with an upgrade to a guided tour! Worked for us! We saw an original, medieval wattle and daub ceiling in the castle as well as a bog preserved skull and antlers of an ancient (now extinct) giant Irish deer. The Portrait Gallery is the second longest room in Ireland at 45 meters. The longest is in Dublin at Trinity College in the library. We saw that the last time we were here.

    After a bit of lunch, we headed to St. Canice's Cathedral, where we climbed the round tower. Round towers are a typical Irish style. Unlike our lighthouses in the US, where the stairs are spirl, these are climbed by a series of ladders. Things get quite tight by the time you get to the top, but the views are amazing.

    Back down on the ground, we went inside the medieval St. Canice's where Richard posed in St. Kieran's Chair. This chair has been used for the enthronement of Bishops for some 1,500 years! It was originally at a Celtic monastic site. The sides of the chair are 13th century. Just mind boggling.

    Our next stop will be one of my highlights. 😊🐑 Kell's Priory was founded in 1193 and has quite an extensive amount of ruins still...but to get there, you cross through a sheep field. Oh. My. Goodness! The lambs are so sweet. After leaving there, we nearly had our first accident. Almost killed a phesant who seemed to feel he owned the road! Richard had to come to a full stop before the fella slowly wandered over to the side and eventually flew off! It is always fun to come around a corner and practically run straight into an old abbey. Jeripoint Abbey is from the second half of the 12th century. These places are amazing sights.

    We finished out our day in the city of Waterford. Our dinner reservations were late enough we had time to look around town. Reginald's Round Tower sits in the area they call the Viking Triangle. This town has a strong Viking history. The first tower built on the site was by the Vikings in 914!! (No, I did not miss a number) The tower of today was built in the 12th century. The restaurant (in the photo of the tower), which sits next to the tower, has old city walls exposed inside. I love how they don't just tear down the old here. To walk among the Vikings!
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 4

    City Views

    5 mai 2023, Irlande ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Between the long days of sightseeing, enjoying the locals in the pubs, and fighting some internet issues, I am behind in my posts. Thinking this will be a common theme. 😄 We are on the south coast of Ireland now having left the city behind. BUT, before I tell you about here, I need to tell you about the past two days!
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    Friday, we spent in Dublin on the south side of the river. This area is where you find the Dublin Castle, the old city walls and Trinity College - Ireland's equilivant to Oxford, Yale or Harvard. Dublin Castle was the seat of English rule in Ireland from 1204 to 1922. Yep, 1200's! Some of these 800+ years old walls still exist. It is just mind-boggling to look at them and think of those who stood there before you.

    The pubs of the city number in the 700s with many having been there for a hundred, two hundred years or more. The history in these places is vast. Many were the haunts of famous Irish authors (think James Joyce or Oscar Wilde) or political rebels fighting for Irish freedom (won in 1922). The first pub we went to was The Brazen Head, the oldest pub in Dublin dating to 1653, with the building currently standing dating to 1754. To our happy surprise, the bowl of Irish stew with brown bread and butter we had for lunch was really, really, really good.

    The campus of Trinity feels like the center of the city. The large quad is surrounded by beautiful architecture. When we were here in 2017, we saw the Long Hall and the Book of Kells, so we skipped that this time. Instead, we ventured into the building housing the geology department. The photos below help explain that choice.

    We strolled down Grafton Street, where we heard buskers, saw street vendors selling beautiful flowers, people watched and found our next pub stop. Ready for pint, we popped into O'Neil's and stayed for 2 hours before heading toward our dinner location. We chose to have "boxty" for dinner. Boxty is an Irish term for a mix of potato and flour made into a thin "pancake" (see photo). They then used these pancakes in a manner similar to a taco shell. Richard had his filed with shredded lamb. Our server, David, recommended the corned beef and cabbage, so that is what I had...wow, these were some yummy food!

    Our day wrapped up with a trip over Ha'penny Bridge, then back to our rooms in time for sunset.
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 3

    A FIRST Guinness today!

    4 mai 2023, Irlande ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    Today we learned about morning traffic🚦in Dublin. ☺️ We started our day touring the Kilmainham Gaol. There is a lot of Irish history tied to the long fight for independence. This gaol first opened 1796 and finally closed in 1924. You might recognize an image or two from one of several movies that shot scenes there ex: The Italian Job (original), Michael Collins, Ripper Street (tv series).
    https://www.kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie/

    The original building was individual cells and the later addition, built in Victorian times, was designed with a central courtyard which made it much easier for guards to monitor everyone.

    We then headed into more central Dublin to see the GPO building which was a central location for the 1916 Easter Rising. You can still see where bullets damaged the large stone columns at the front of the building.

    Found a nice little spot for a filling lunch of cottage pie, roasted potatoes, veg and an eclair to finish. Yum!!

    On our way to 14 Henrietta Street, we found The Kings Inn Pub. Time for a pint! 🍺

    While the rich lived on Henrietta Street in the beginning, things changed dramatically after the British moved the Irish govt to London. The wealthy land owners who served in Parliament moved to London as well. The now empty homes were bought up by individuals who converted them into tenaments. The home at 14 Henrietta had 17 families living in the space. One family per room. In the 1911 census there were 100 people at this address where before it housed one wealthy family for part of the year and was closed up the rest. 😳

    The last person to move out...finally...was in 1979. The room is exactly as it was for her. She was born there and eventually it became hers when she married and had her own family of 4 children. The partial walls helped to create rooms inside the room.

    After that we both needed a pint! Well, a half pint for me. My first ever Guinness. I had mine, however, with blackcurrant. It was lovely!

    We wrapped our day with a drive out to Howth, a coastal town. The rain and wind set in so we saw a bit of the ocean and had a fine seafood dinner at The Bloody Stream.

    Tomorrow: the last day touring Dublin.

    1. Walking through a park to get to the Gaol.
    2. Look at how worn the steps are from over 125 years of use.
    3. and 4. The original cells and halls. It was cold, damp and breezy. Yikes it must have been awful!
    5. and 6. The addition built in Victorian times was much brighter and less gloomy.
    7. But they sure must of been some short people!
    8. Zoom in. This was where they say for mug shots to be taken. The wedge in the middle of the chair is interesting. 😆
    9. The courtyard and wall political prisoners were stood in front of before being executed by a 12 man firing squad.
    10. and 11. The GPO building and a close up showing the damaged columns.
    12. A view of Henrietta Street
    13. - 15. A family of 6 lived in these 3 spaces....originally 1 room in the home.
    16. The Garden of Rememberence for those who fought for Irish freedom.
    17. First ever Guinness
    18. Howth Castle built in mid 15th century. https://howthcastle.ie/about/history/
    19. Us with the winds whipping!
    20. A pint and a cozy fire to wrap the day.
    En savoir plus

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