Europe 2023

We arrived at the allocated time and found a locked green door. There was a bell which Ian suggested I push and, like magic, the door opened and we were greeted by a lovely young woman. We were then taken into a lovely large room with high ceilings and beautiful wooden tables which were generous in size and well spaced apart. The young lady then handed us over to Gonçalo, who introduced himself as our sommelier.

We decided to start with an aperitif, Ian a dry Madeira and me French bubbles. As we sipped on our drinks, Francisco introduced himself and gave us the menu. He explained that there were two tasting menus or a la carte to choose from. We decided to go for the tasting menu and chose the ‘The Alma’ which is a menu inspired by the Chef’s classics.

I had to take notes as we had each offering as there were six flavour bombs that were presented before we got the bread and first course. We first had a burrata and pickled strawberry tart; next was a soup from the Algave - prawn, celery, fennel and caviar. This was followed by Roasted pork skin with suckling pig crumb and a chilli mayo (Ian declared he could have eaten 20 of them). Next was a dish that was supposed to resemble a french fry and ketchup, but which was actually a fried strip of red capsicum coated in a charcoal crumb, and the ketchup was a roasted red pepper sauce with a gel. This concluded the pre-amuse-bouche courses!

We then had tuna tartare with ginger, lemon cress and fried capers. Next was a bread and seafood mousse with a sardine, fried onions and sandfire. The last amuse bouche was a cucumber and jack fish gazpacho with finger limes. It was a seasonal melon that has a taste profile like a cucumber and is only available in September and October. It was a great palate cleanser. By this stage we had been there about an hour.

The first actual course of the menu was a carrot dish - carrots, bulghur, apricot purée, goats cheese and cumin oil. It was spectacular and I would turn vegetarian if all meals tasted like this one! Second course was Foie Gras with apple, granola, beetroot and coffee. This dish was superb and even Ian enjoyed the Foie Gras as it was so light and masterfully prepared. Third course was Salted cod (we are in Portugal, so cod had to figure in the menu). It was prepared with coriander, brandade (an emulsion of salt cod, olive oil and potatoes) and kale. Fourth course was Alentejo style pork (the neck), with red pepper paste, ‘bulhāo pato’ clam sauce, which is steamed clams with lemon, garlic, s & p, white wine, coriander.

Fifth course, and the introduction to dessert, was Orange and Almond - a beautifully fresh dessert of almond crumb, orange sorbet, fresh orange, a red onion tuile and a gel. Sixth course was ‘Brisa do Lis’ which comprised of garden peas, chamomile ice cream, cured egg yolk. And, if that wasn’t enough, we then were presented with a plate of petite fours and a pingado (what the Portuguese call a piccolo).

I am listing the wines separately as we tried such a variety, all recommended by our ‘wine angel’ Gonçalo. The wine list is predominantly local, the only exceptions were my champagne and dessert wine, both French.

Delamotte Champagne, Blanc De Blancs
D’Oliveira Terrantez Madeira 1988
Parcels Única, Green Wine 2020 - made by the godfather of Green wine
Primus 2021 DÃO D.O.C.
Quinta Do Ribeirinho, Serçialinho, Luis Pato, Vinson Branco 2021
Os Paulistas, Vinhas Velhas, DOC Alentejo, 2020
Nossa Calcario, Braga 2016, Bairrada DOC (without makeup)
Boa-Vista, Douro Reserva, Tinto, 2019
Mouchão, Alentejo DOC, Tinto, 2016
Château d’Yquem, 2016
Malvasia, Madeira 1945En savoir plus