Day 13 - The Meseta

"I slow down when hiking. The rhythm of nature is more leisurely. The sun comes up, it moves across the sky, and you begin to synchronize to that rhythm." - John Mackey.

Day 13 - Rabé de las Calzadas to Castellanos de Castro - 16.8 km

I left today just as the sun was ready to peak over the horizon - 8:03 am. The sky was tinged with yellows, oranges and pinks and it was just beautiful - as most mornings here have been. I had been able to get a hot cup of tea before leaving which was a good thing as it was very cool and windy out.

I soon caught up to an American couple (there are SO many Americans on the trail!!) and walked with them for an enjoyable 8km. It really does help to pass the time, when you have others to chat to. After a brief stop for some snacks and the “bano”, we were on the way again. Other trail friends of theirs were now walking with us, and I was struggling to keep up. After 10 mins or so, I bid them a Buen Camino and said I was going to have to step back as I could not keep their pace and breathe at the same time! I walked the remaining 7 km in solitary, taking in the beauty of the area.

The Meseta is the area of north central Spain known for its wide open landscapes and big skies - kinda’ like Saskatchewan. A lot of people skip or avoid walking the Meseta as it is over 200km long (from just outside of Burgos, to Astorga). There are many long stretches with little shade and / or water. It is blistering hot in summer and freezing cold in winter. It’s also windy as all heck. Unfortunately to this point, someone forgot to tell the area it is supposed to be flat. Have I mentioned I hate hills? I do….but am getting stronger and more conditioned to them. Just In time for the Meseta hahaha.

Twice today, the wind died down and I thought I’d gone deaf! The wind literally battered my ears for over 4 hours today. Must remember to wear a buff tomorrow! When I started this morning I had a t-shirt and fleece, gloves and a hat. All but the t-shirt came off within 30 mins. My arms then froze due to the wind. I got quite chilled at one point and almost put the fleece back on. But the sun was bright and the day was getting warmer so I didn’t bother.

Due to my time constraints and the distances I am managing (so much less than planned!) I will be skipping a chunk, as mentioned previously. The issue with this is I miss an important Camino icon - Cruz de Ferro or, the iron cross. This is where people typically leave the burdens (of life) they have been carrying. You symbolically leave a stone (usually brought from home) to signify the release. Although I left my talisman at home, I did pick up a heart shaped stone on one of my first days walking. Today, I came across a St James cross along the way. I took a photo and kept on walking. Something made me turn back - uphill, so you know it was compelling! At the base were piles of rocks and stones. Most had been left by pilgrims. Some with names, some with messages, some photos etc. It was a mini Cruz de Ferro. I knew this was my chance. I dug that rock out of my bag and used my Burt’s Bees tinted lip moisturizer to outline the heart and colour the stone a shade of red. I placed the stone down gently while saying aloud what it meant to me and what burden I was leaving in this beautiful place of rolling hills and wheat fields. I wept and wept. Two pilgrims walked by offering Buen Caminos and it was all I could do to choke out a reply, while trying to hide my tears. I can’t say I walked away totally unburdened. But, my heart was a little lighter and my head a little clearer.

I walked in to my Albergue just before Castellanos de Castro. What a welcome oasis!!! I arrived to relaxation music playing and sat down for a glass of wine. A perfect welcome after the emotionally draining morning! I finally got myself checked in and sat planning my route for the next few days, and enjoying the chill vibe. This is a new (1yr old) Albergue and the owner does all her own cooking and baking. The pilgrim meal was a seafood macaroni (don’t knock it til you have tried it!), salmon fillet and salad with orange mousse for dessert. Incredible!! As we finished our meal, we were also treated to an amazing sunset!!

So very grateful for this day and this fabulous Albergue.Read more