Timor Sea

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    • Day 124

      Kimberley Expedition: Day 2 (Morning)

      April 13, Timor Sea ⋅ 🌬 86 °F

      We had an unusual start to our day … an uncommon occurrence on an expedition!

      We got to sleep in this morning as breakfast was at 8:00a! All because the schedule was turned on its head due to the delay leaving Darwin yesterday. When I rolled out of bed around 7:00a, Coral Discoverer was still sailing through the Joeseph Bonaparte Gulf … heading towards Koolama Bay for today’s off-ship Xplorer activity at King George River.

      After breakfast, we went on a tour of the bridge. Well, tour is a bit of an exaggeration, since the bridge on this 70-pax vessel is quite small. But our group of 10 squeezed into the space and Captain Josh explained about the instrumentation while Captain Peter, who will be taking over for the next expedition leaving from Darwin, was manning the helm as part of his familiarization training in these waters.

      Next up, Anne gave a lecture entitled “The Making of The Kimberley’s Coastal Sculptures.”
      She made use of a multi-layered sandwich to demonstrate how the rocks were shaped by the movement of the tectonic plates … the bread slices representing the hard rocks and the peanut butter and Vegemite representing the softer rocks. Her lecture also briefly delved into the Aboriginal creation ancestors — The Wandjina. We hope to see some of the art she showed us later during this expedition.

      I actually think it was good that today’s schedule was flip-flopped … moving the lecture to the morning. This allowed us to get a better grasp of the formation of the landscape we would be exploring this afternoon. And it underscored that we are in a region with some of the oldest rocks on earth … dating back some 1.8 BILLION YEARS … a number that is hard for me to wrap my head around.

      By the time we were finished with lunch, it was time for us to prep for our afternoon outing.
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    • Day 123

      Kimberley Expedition: Day 1

      April 12, Timor Sea ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

      What is The Kimberleys?

      It is the region in the far northwest corner of Australia … often described as the Earth’s last true wilderness area. It is the part of Western Australia that has rock formations that date back billions of years. It is an area of stunning natural landscapes … ancient Aboriginal rock art … wildlife … and more. It is one of the parts of Australia that had the earliest settlements … with the first humans going back some 65,000 years.

      We will get to experience a tiny piece of all this during our 10-day expedition. And it all started with boarding our expedition vessel — Coral Discoverer — around 8:00a at Darwin’s Fort Hill Wharf.

      Once onboard, we were directed to the dining room where tea/coffee/scones were set up. We were then invited to check-in to our cabin. B21 — our cabin — was easy to find. Go up one set of stairs to the Promenade Deck and walk all the way to the aft. The cabin is comfortable … if basic. We are next to the access door to the aft promenade deck, which I expect we’ll be making good use of to get around the ship.

      Due to an issue with one of the cranes used to load/unload the zodiacs, we were not on the move until 10:00a. Even then, Coral Discoverer just sailed out to an anchorage in Darwin Harbour to continue the repair work. The good news? The delayed departure won’t impact tomorrow’s plans … except for flip-flopping activities ... lectures in the morning; off-ship exploration in the afternoon.

      As has been our experience on other expeditions, our day was a busy one … settling into the cabin; exploring the public decks to acquaint ourselves with the vessel’s layout; taking advantage of the open bridge policy for a visit and chat with the Duty Officer; attending the muster drill and the mandatory safety briefing … followed by the expedition briefing by Katie, our Expedition Leader (EL). And that was all before lunch.

      By the time lunch was over, Coral Discoverer was on its way for real, heading out to the Timor Sea.

      After a break of about an hour, the afternoon activities picked up … a helicopter briefing for those wanting to book the optional outing to Mitchell Falls (we’re taking a pass … don’t want to risk triggering my vertigo); an introductory lecture about the Top End and The Kimberleys. And then it was time for Captain Josh’s Welcome Drinks … followed by dinner. But wait. We weren’t done for the day. After our meal, The Kimberley episode from the BBC Coast series was screened in the Bridge Deck Lounge. A good way to wrap up the first day of the expedition.

      Time to turn in for the night. We’ve been told that the forecast is looking good for our trip and Coral Discoverer should not be dancing much as we make our way from the Timor Sea to the Indian Ocean.
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    • Day 62

      Evening 62: Meet Captian Warwick

      February 22, Timor Sea ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

      I am sure everyone onboard has those days/nights that; “He goes his way, and She goes her way.” Donna and I spent the day together at Whitsunday Island and somewhere along the line we did our own thing for dinner - She did catch up with me later at the World Cafe before the Magic/Comedy Show

      Nevertheless, I was on my own dinner. I sat down next to another gentleman who looked like he was in the same situation. I introduced myself asking “If he was on his own for dinner as I was.” Replied “Hello, I am Warwick, I am piloting the ship.” I paused for a moment and thought to myself “Why are you in the World Cafe you should be on the bridge making sure we don’t hit anything.”

      Warwick, is a Coastal Pilot not to be confused with the Port Pilots who guide us to the docks. Warwick plans the route well in advance of the journey along the Australian coast and stays with the ship the whole way through. Getting on as we left Sydney and off the ship after Thursday Island.

      There is a photo of Warwick and a video of him getting back on the tug boat. He said, honestly getting on and off the ship is really the most dangerous part of his job. When all the pre-work is done well in advance of the voyage along the Coastal Reef it’s pretty straight forward. Warwick gave very high praise to our Captain, his crew, and Viking.

      Warwick, has been married 12 years, his second go-around, and between him and his wife they have eight children, and 12 grandchildren. When we were docked in Melbourne he said they live about 1.4 miles as the crow flies from where the ship was docked. I told him I am from East Windsor, Connecticut - he chuckled saying “I live on Windsor Terrance” - small tidbits make brief encounters memorable.

      When the Neptune was anchored at Phillip Island, Warwick was on a small hike with his wife and pointed the Neptune out to her and said, “That’s the were I will be working in a couple of days taking that ship up along the reef.”

      Prior to his current 14 years as a Coastal Pilot Warwick did over 35 years in the Australian Navy, was Captain of three large warships, and even commander of a small fleet before his retirement from the Navy.

      We talked for well over an hour - as we parted ways - he gave me a sincere thank-you to me for starting up a conversation with him. Talking with Warwick was a great lesson to me to learn about the going-ons of a Coastal Pilot.
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    • Day 86

      De Darwin a Lombok

      April 1, 2023, Timor Sea ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Nous sommes de nouveau en mer pour une belle navigation de deux jours dans la mer de Timor. Cap a l’ouest vers Lombok à 952Mn.
      Ce matin nous avons un beau ciel bleu et une mer d’huile, ce qui est très rare.
      Nous sommes invités par le capitaine pour une visite de la passerelle et de la salle de contrôle des machines à 09h30
      Le navire est propulsé par deux hélices de 6m de diamètre, elles mêmes reliées à deux moteurs électriques alimentés par 5 moteurs diesel d’une puissance totale de plus de 75000 Ch. chaque moteur consommant 2T de fuel a l’heure pour une capacité totale de 3000T.
      Pour rester dans le superlatif, notre consommation d’eau dépasse les 700 m3 par jour , les ailerons stabilisateur font 7 m de long, etc…

      Le matin du 02 Avril vers 08h00 nous sommes au large de Pulau Sumba, nous poursuivons notre route au Nord Ouest vers Lombok. Mer belle, ciel voile. Belle journée avec une grosse averse le soir qui a gâchée la Beach party.
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    • Day 72

      Beagle Golf • Tag 1

      June 20, 2023, Timor Sea

      Die große Fahrt beginnt Richtung Afrika.

      Für mich einer der Höhepunkte auf meiner Tour vom Westpazifik bis an die Ostküste des afrikanischen Kontinents. Mit der Querung des indischen Ozeans auf der Höhe von Darwin, sind die Stationen für Segelboote an einer Hand abzuzählen.

      Unser Ziel ist nach 4.500 Seemeilen die Hauptstadt der Seychellen Victoria auf der Insel Mahe. Bis dahin sind die möglichen Stopps für Erholung, Reparaturen und Nachbunkern das Ashmore Reef, Christmas Island, Cocos Keeling und das Chagos Archipel.
      Die ersten drei Inselgruppen gehören zu Australien und sind bei unserer Ausklarierung von Darwin der Küstenschutzbehörde Australiens mitgeteilt worden und diese haben grünes Licht für unser Betreten der Inseln erteilt.

      Das Chagos Archipel gehört zum britischen Territorium im indischen Ozean, kurz BIOT und ist an die Amerikaner verpachtet. Diese betreiben dort auf dem Atoll Diego Garcia ihren strategischen Luftwaffen- und Marinestützpunkt im indischen Ozean und wollen sich nicht in die Karten schauen lassen. Das bedeutet für Segler wie uns keine Freigabe zum Anlegen am Stützpunkt, außer in Seenotfällen.

      Eine Möglichkeit besteht weiter nördlich in den Atollen mit einem behördlichen Antrag und Freigabe durch die BIOT ein Ankerfenster zu erreichen. Diese Freigabe haben wir für die VAVA-U nach zweiwöchiger Bearbeitungszeit und 100£ an die britische Behörde erhalten.
      Das heißt, wir können an einem der verlassensten Atolle der Welt Station machen.
      Vom 20.-27.07.2023 haben wir eine Ankergenehmigung am Salomon Atoll an der Ile de Yakamaka, ich bin gespannt.

      Mit dem Ablegen aus der Cullen Bay Marina am Mittag, schleusen wir die VAVA-U in den Beagle Golf und bunkern am Aussensteg beide Dieseltanks voll, in Summe 2x750Liter.

      13:00 Uhr legen wir nach der letzten Kontrolle durch die Australian Border Watch ab und ziehen der untergehenden Sonne entgegen.
      Es könnte insgesamt 50 Sonnenuntergänge auf der Fahrt für uns geben, mal sehen, im besten Fall 40 je nach Wind. Für die ersten 5-6 Tage ist kein segelbarer Wind angesagt und wir werden Motoren auf dem zweiwöchigen Weg zur Weihnachtsinsel.

      Am Abend gibt es sächsische Krautnudel und ein Bierchen und damit fangen wir an die frischen Vorräte zu schmälern.
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    • Day 73

      Timor Sea • Tag 2

      June 21, 2023, Timor Sea ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      Nach wie vor haben wir keinen Wind zum Segeln, die Stärke schwankt zwischen 5-9kt aus Ostsüdost.

      Diese Wetterlage wird die nächsten fünf bis sechs Tage anhalten und wir müssen Motoren um Strecke zu machen.
      An Bord entsteht der Gedanke am Ashmore Reef Station zu machen und dort einen Tag abzuwettern für den Weg zur Weihnachtsinsel.

      Die Wachen spielen sich ein und mit der Schiffsuhr weiß jeder wann er dran ist.
      Den ganzen Tag ziehen im Abstand von 10-20 Metern mehrere Seeschlangen, eine Wasserschildkröte, ein Hai, zwei Delphine und am Abend ein Thunfischschwarm auf der Jagd an uns vorbei.

      Mittag düst in geringer Höhe die Küstenwache über unser Schiff hinweg und funkt uns an. Das geht so schnell, da bekomme ich nicht einmal die Kamera startklar. Die Fragen beziehen sich auf das Woher, Wohin und Wieviel Personen an Bord der VAVA-U sind.
      Obwohl wir das alles schon beim Ausklarieren in Darwin angegeben haben, wird hier mit sichtbarer Präsenz Flagge gezeigt und Autorität aufgebaut. Auch nach dem Gesundheitszustand der Mannschaft wird sich erkundigt, später hören wir noch andere Funksprüche ab, die darauf schließen das die australische Küstenwache alle Schiffe an der Nordküste zu Indonesien und Osttimor abfliegt und abfragt.
      Das ist professioneller Küstenschutz den ich so noch nicht erlebt habe.

      Am Abend gibt es Fischcurry vom letzten Fang aus dem Froster und ab morgen kann wieder geangelt werden.
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    • Day 74

      Timor Sea • Tag 3

      June 22, 2023, Timor Sea ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

      Unsere Tages- und Wachabläufe haben sich eingespielt in der Timor Sea.

      Nach wie vor etliche schwarzweiß geringelte Seeschlangen rechts und links am Schiff. Die Wassertiefe schwankt zwischen 30 und 60 Metern und ich frage mich, wie lange die Seeschlangen die Luft anhalten können zum jagen unter Wasser. Oben herrschen 26°C Wassertemperatur und Sonneneinstrahlung zum Aufwärmen unter Wasser in großen Tiefen wird es kalt und dunkel.
      Rätselhaft die Natur.

      Pünktlichst Mittags rauscht die australische Küstenwache im taktischen Tieflug mit der Sonne im Rücken an der VAVA-U vorbei. Diesmal kann ich zumindest ein verwertbares Foto von hinten schiessen. Das geht alles so rasend schnell, in 15 Sekunden ist der Flieger kaum noch zu Sehen.
      Danach über Funk die selben Fragestellungen und Antworten wie gestern.

      Am Abend gibt es griechische Mousakka von Bahadir, einfach köstlich in den Tropen der Timor Sea.

      Bei sternenklarer Nacht gibt es ein gleichseitiges Dreieck am Himmel vor der VAVA-U zwischen Venus, Mars und zunehmendem Mond, es sieht aus wie ein UFO.
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    • Day 67

      Day 67: Arafura Sea Day & Bubbles

      February 27, Timor Sea ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

      Manfredi’s was a full house at 1:30 PM on this sea day cruising the Arafura Sea and not because of the great Italian cuisine being served. This was another wine tasting event.

      The tables were jammed packed with wine glasses neatly laid out on a paper place mat numbers one to five.

      Today’s wine tasting was all about various bubble wines and champagne.
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    • Day 53

      02.28.2024 Timor Sea

      February 28, Timor Sea ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

      Our final sea day as we arrive in Komodo Island, Indonesia tomorrow. It is 84 degrees with a real feel of 95. Humidity is 80 plus %.
      We had to complete some immigration forms today before we get to Bali on March 1st. Always a challenge when at sea as the internet fades in and out.
      Myron went to choir practice at 2 and Diana attended the 2:30 lecture: “What To Look For in a Balinese Temple” presented by Dr. Robert Cribb. Not as entertaining as Russell Lee but an excellent speaker.
      I would be remiss if I didn’t say Guest Services has been extremely busy the past two days as many people have decided they don’t want to go around Africa with the number of sea days so many are disembarking in Singapore and taking their future cruise vouchers to embark on a different Viking journey. We are staying the course as that is what we signed up for. After Singapore we should have a real feel for the number of guest remaining.
      Dinner tonight with Jim and Lois Avery along with Brian and Jonathan.
      The sunset was beautiful and both of us called it a an early night.
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    • Day 69

      Nutmeg and Dragons

      February 28, Timor Sea ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      Still sailing through the Timor Sea and into the Indian Ocean. Our botanist discussed the role of spices in the history of Indonesia. (Guess why Indonesia has been called the Spice Islands?) Nutmeg, mace, cloves and pepper were especially valuable (worth more than gold). The Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese and English all vied to control the trade using brutal tactics. Eventually Indonesia achieved independence but has struggled to establish a stable government. A few interesting facts: Nutmeg has hallucinogenic properties but can also kill if you take enough (about 30 nutmegs). However if you are thinking it is the perfect murder poison be aware that it can be detected by gas chromatography.

      In the presentation on dragons we learned that the Eastern world depicts dragons as good, water loving creatures without wings whereas the Western world imagines flying, fire breathing, destructive monsters. This is in preparation for our visit to see Komodo lizards tomorrow.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Timor Sea, Laut Timor, Mar de Timor, Timor-zee, Тиморское море, Тиморське море

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