The Craze for Travelling

The South American Odyssey The Craze for Travelling
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Dag 99
lørdag 6. januar 2018 15:31
⛅ 17 °C
Høyde: 11 m
Chile Caleta Pescadores -42.91667, -72.7133342°55’0” S 72°42’48” W
2 2
Half a day of nothing
6. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
The initial plan had been to get up by 8 am and get ready to go to Chaitur by 9 am and then decide which tour to do that day. When the alarm went off at 8 am, it was raining heavily and we all were quite tired so we decided to sleep in late. Mr. Wilson (actually now I remember his name was Nicklas) found our place and came looking for us in case we wanted to join a tour. We told him we were too tired and went back to sleep.
Finally, around 11 we were up and got ready. We had our breakfast and then started to go around looking for someone else who could offer us tours around the place. That's when we came across Patagonia Ruta 7. They had full amd half day tours. We had already marked what all we wanted to see in this area and they had tours to all these places.
We decided to go on a half day tour of the Alerces forest trail. It wasn't cheap at 56000 CLP for the 4 of us but knowing that we didn't have any other means of transport to and fro, we took it. The tour started at 3 pm and we drove North again on the route we had come South on the day before. It was still raining steadily but it wasn't a heavy downpour.Les mer
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Reisende Is this the new construction after the devastation?
29.01.2018Svar
Reisende I see a TV antina similar to Rohtak style,way back 1974.
29.01.2018Svar
The Craze for Travelling Yup. That's right.
29.01.2018Svar
The Craze for Travelling Ha ha ha.. It is 😁
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 22:05
🌧 10 °C
Høyde: 13 m
Chile Caleta Pescadores -42.915, -72.7116742°54’54” S 72°42’42” W
Brisas del Mar, Chaitén
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ 🌧 10 °C
Brisas del Mar was a lovely place to stay. It was a row of cabañas with a central parking space. The rooms were neat and clean. The cabañas cost us 50000 CLP for the 4 of us.
After checking in we all went out to have dinner. It was already 10 pm. There was one pizza place open. We had our dinner there.Les mer
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 20:00
⛅ 21 °C
Høyde: 13 m
Chile Caleta Pescadores -42.915, -72.7116742°54’54” S 72°42’42” W
Reached Chaiten
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Finally, around 6:15 pm, we reached Chaiten. Its a small laidback village with one main road and the Carretera Austral passing through. This village was totally evacuated during the 2008 eruption of Chaiten volcano. Most of the village was destroyed by the ash and fires and also the lahars caused due to the melting of the snow caps due to the volcano. The river Rio Blanco changed course causing the sea shore to move about a km further away. This is the reason why the current ferry terminal is almost 2 kms walk outside of the village. In 2011, the mayor of the region declared the place uninhabitable but some of the former residents started coming back in the hope of reviving the village again. Currently, the population is at about 2000 inhabitants, which is almost half of what it was before the eruption but the village has limped back to a place that doesn't show much signs of the destruction before. The village is split into 2 due to the river and one can find places to stay on either side of it (more on the Northern side though).
We were dropped off at the main junction of the Northern part. After we thanked and waved goodbye to the lovely, helpful Dutch couple, Hristo and Maria went to look for a place to stay, Melinda stayed with our bags while I went to a tours kiosk (Chaitur) nearby to get some info about what all we could do from here and what are the possibilities for transportation.
Chaitur turned out to be a tour operator and the bus stop for the village as well. The manager (I think his name was Wilson) was busy jamming up on his Ukulele with a Basque guy playing the guitar. I waited for about 5 min but tgey continued on and on. He plays quite well and it was nice to hear them play but Melinda was waiting outside on the road so I started walking out. That's when Wilson turned and asked me to get my bags etc and that he'll give all the information about the tours etc. I went and returned with our bags. The jam session continued. A German girl sitting inside whispered to me that this might take a while sinve she had already been sitting for almost 2 hours without getting any information from him. I tried to interrupt and informed him that we were in a bit of a hurry and we needed to get a place to stay and book a tour for the next day. That's when he said Patagonia is a place where Einstein actually understood relativity 😄😄
We were there at Chaitur till almost 8 pm. Every few minutes I tried to get more information about the tours and prices but within seconds of starting the answer, Wilson would divert to a totally different topic. Finally, Hristo and Maria came back and informed that they had found a nice place nearby. We left Chaitur with no information about what we could do the next day or what tours were offered. We told Wilson that we would come there around 9 am next day if we wanted to join any tour.Les mer
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ReisendeFunny people ,funny experiences you are facing.....mr.Wilson.
22.01.2018Svar
The Craze for TravellingHa ha ha.. True. You meet all kinds when you travel 😁
28.01.2018Svar
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 17:46
⛅ 11 °C
Høyde: 204 m
Chile Lago Río Blanco -42.75, -72.6016742°45’0” S 72°36’6” W
The burnt forest
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
After riding past the Laguna Rio Negro, we crossed a stretch of forests then we crossed the Laguna Rio Blanco. After that came the area of the burnt forest. There were tree stumps everywhere but none of them had leaves or were alive. Later we found out that the volcano Chaiten had exploded in 2008 and that had caused the burning of the trees. By now, the area had started recovering but the burnt out stumps still remain.Les mer
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 17:27
⛅ 12 °C
Høyde: 199 m
Chile Lago Río Negro -42.72167, -72.5966742°43’18” S 72°35’48” W
2 2
Off to Chaitén
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Before we could order anything, the ferry arrived with the remaining vehicles and passengers that had been with us in the morning ferry. We tried stopping the vehicles coming off the ferry to hitchhike to Chaiten. There were some 10 other people waiting for a ride like us. None of the vehicles stopped till the ferry was almost empty. Then the 2nd last vehicle coming off the ferry was the Dutch couple we had become friends with earlier. We waved to them and thankfully they recognized us and stopped.
Melinda and I had chatted with them almost 3 hours, a day earlier, while waiting to buy the ferry tickets. We had really liked them there. Very nice people, extremely polite and friendly. Their son was working in Stockholm so we could find a lot of common things to talk about. Then after that, we had met them on the 1st ferry as well and had spent quite some time together on the deck. Now, they were the ones driving the red pickup that we waved at. They were shocked to know that there were no buses and felt bad that we would have to sit behind. But, for us, this was an amazing opportunity to get to Chaiten. We all packed up at the back of their vehicle. One more person from Israel traveling solo joined us as well.
The route was very beautiful through thick forests. We stopped at Lago Rio Negro. It was a lovely viewpoint over the lake. There we took pictures with all of us on the vehicle.Les mer
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Reisende Second time you are being photographed by someone.
22.01.2018Svar
Reisende Gratitude to the Dutch couple for providing timely help 🌹🌹🌹💐💐
23.01.2018Svar
The Craze for Travelling Ha ha ha.. I like the places to be in the pics not me spoiling the beauty of it 😉
28.01.2018Svar
The Craze for Travelling That's how the world works.. We were helping a lot of people when we had the vehicle. What goes around, comes around 😇
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 17:03
⛅ 23 °C
Høyde: 399 m
Argentina El Chaltén -49.33098, -72.8887549°19’52” S 72°53’20” W
Tepa and Maneo trees
5. januar 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Deeper in the forest, we came across a small species of fern called the Toad's Umbrella or Paragua del Sapito.
In the forest, every now amd then we would get a strong almost eucalyptus like smell. This, Igor told us was the smell from the leaves of the sacred Tepa trees.
Another sacred tree is the Maneo. This too is a tall tree with wide spread branches.Les mer
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ReisendeFrom day 98 ,you have jumped to 118?Anything missing.?
29.01.2018Svar
The Craze for TravellingYup.. Wrong date on this one. 😁 It is from 98 day only.
29.01.2018Svar
The Craze for TravellingFixed it now 👍👍
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 16:12
⛅ 12 °C
Høyde: 21 m
Chile Chaitén Caleta Gonzalo Airport -42.56333, -72.6033342°33’48” S 72°36’12” W
2
To the camping and back
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
When I reached the cafe at the harbor, Hristo was coming out from there. He had found that there were only 5 cabañas at Caleta Gonzalo and all of them are booked 5-7 months in advance. The cost too was a prohibitive one at 145000 CLP for 4 people. One could camp at the camping area for a fee but we didn't have tents or sleeping bags.
So, the only option available was either sleep under the wooden overhead shades without sleeping bags and blankets or go further to Chaitén some 60 kms away. There were no buses going to Chaitén for now but there could buses on the ferry bringing the rest of the people and vehicles that had been left behind when our ferry left for Caleta Gonzalo earlier. We knew there wouldn't be any bus on that ferry but there could be a free bus on the ferry reaching at 7 pm, going to Chaitén or we could hitchhike on the vehicles coming on the ferries if the bus wasn't there.
We went back to the camping area to get everyone and the bags back to the harbor to try and get to Chaiten.
Back at the cafe, we waited for the ferry to arrive while we had some food in the meantime.Les mer
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Reisende All made of wood but fire wood is burning inside,a big risk?
23.01.2018Svar
The Craze for Travelling Ha ha ha.. True, but they had a proper metallic fireplace.
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 15:55
⛅ 12 °C
Høyde: 21 m
Chile Río Gonzalo -42.56167, -72.6033342°33’42” S 72°36’12” W
2
Caleta Gonzalo trek to Cafe
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
I took everyone's passport and walked back towards the cafe at the harbor. On the way back, I took a different shortcut trek through the forest and via a secluded bay. The path through the forest was very beautiful. It was lush green with small wooden bridges overs the streams. The bay looked exactly like the fjords in Norway. The path overall was around 1.5 kms and ended directly at the harbor.Les mer
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Reisende There was no 👽👹👿 on this deserted area?
23.01.2018Svar
The Craze for Travelling Yeah.. That's where we love to go 😎
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 15:38
⛅ 12 °C
Høyde: 13 m
Chile Río Gonzalo -42.55833, -72.60542°33’30” S 72°36’18” W
Caleta Gonzalo camping
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
To reach the camping, we had to cross a patch of forest, across a wooden swinging bridge before we reached the open camping spaces. There were wooden patios but we couldn't find any reception or person to ask about it. Finally, one person told that the checkin etc was at the cafe near the harbor. So we left our bags with the girls waiting at the camping while Hristo went back to check us in. A bit later I realized that he might need our passport for the checkin so I too left after him and trekked all the way back for 2 kms to the harbor.Les mer
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 15:33
⛅ 12 °C
Høyde: 13 m
Chile Río Gonzalo -42.55833, -72.60542°33’30” S 72°36’18” W
Caleta Gonzalo
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
We reached Caleta Gonzalo around 3:30 pm. Our plan had been to stay in Caleta Gonzalo for 1-2 days and do some of the short treks in the forests and glaciers nearby. When we got off the ferry, we realized that it was not a town or a village. It was just the ferry port and there was only one camping area and a cafe there and nothing else. We walked 2 kms to the camping place. There was a que of people in front and behind us, all trying to find a place to stay.Les mer
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 15:03
⛅ 12 °C
Høyde: 32 m
Chile Estero Lago -42.52167, -72.4766742°31’18” S 72°28’36” W
Leptepu to Fiordo Largo and penguins
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
The connecting bus was a small one. There was a scramble to find seats on it as soon as the ferry parked. We managed to get our bags loaded and find 4 places to sit. Quite a few people had to stay back and wait for the bus to return to take them. The journey was about 10 kms and took about 20 min. At Fiordo Largo, the connecting ferry was waiting. We got on to it while the bus returned to fetch the rest of the people. The ferry route from Fiordo Largo to Puerto Gonzalo is a short one of about 45 min. The ferry is a small one with no cafeteria. We remained on the lower deck next to the cars with our bags. On the way, we saw some penguins swimming near the ferry.Les mer
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 14:05
☀️ 29 °C
Høyde: Sjønivå
Chile Caleta Leptepu -42.475, -72.4316742°28’30” S 72°25’54” W
Reached Leptepu
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Around 2 pm, we reached Leptepu. The fjords and the waterfalls forming from the glaciers above the mountains were stunning.
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 13:02
☀️ 29 °C
Høyde: Sjønivå
Chile Punta Cascada -42.31167, -72.4833342°18’42” S 72°28’60” W
Fjords and waterfalls
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
The route of the ferry was very scenic and it seemed that the protection of the fjords had resulted in better weather inside. We saw many waterfalls and many other fjords starting from the main fjord we were in. It was nature at its best.Les mer
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Dag 99
lørdag 6. januar 2018 03:38
☀️ 29 °C
Høyde: Sjønivå
South Pacific Ocean -42.07167, -72.4716742°4’18” S 72°28’18” W
Amazing views on way to Leptepu
6. januar 2018, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
There were stunning views of the fjords on the way. This place was as beautiful as the fjords of Norway just the heavy overcast sky was spoiling the actual beauty of the place. The sea which would jave looked emerald green on a sunny day was grayish and dark. After about 2 hours of the ride, we realized that the ferry was not going to Puerto Gonzalo but taking an inner route via the fjords to Leptepu. On enquiring we were told that the storm at Caleta Gonzalo had still not subsided so this ferry was taking the more protected inner route that the evening ferry takes. Since our tickets were till Caleta Gonzalo, we would have to take the connecting bus from Leptepu to Fiordo Largo and from there, the connecting ferry to Caleta Gonzalo.Les mer
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 10:11
⛅ 21 °C
Høyde: Sjønivå
Chile Río Negro Airport -41.97167, -72.4716741°58’18” S 72°28’18” W
Sea lion and dolphin in the bay
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Since the ferry was fully booked, it took them longer than usual to get everyone on board. While we were waiting on the upper deck of the ferry, we saw a sea lion playing in the harbor nearby. After a while, we saw a dolphin swim by the ferry. It was still very cloudy but the rain had almost stopped by now. The ferry finally left the harbor around 10:40 am.Les mer
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Dag 98
fredag 5. januar 2018 09:58
⛅ 21 °C
Høyde: 22 m
Chile Río Negro -41.96333, -72.4683341°57’48” S 72°28’6” W
10 am ferry from Hornopiren
5. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
We woke up and had our breakfast at the restaurant opposite the cabin. We reached the harbor just before 10 am. The ferry was already there and the vehicles were getting onto it when we reached. We showed our tickets and were let in. It was a big ferry with a lot of places to sit. The rain had finally stopped by early morning so we went to the outer decks to enjoy the last views of Hornopiren before we left.Les mer
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Dag 97
torsdag 4. januar 2018 14:34
🌬 30 °C
Høyde: 22 m
Chile Río Negro -41.96333, -72.4841°57’48” S 72°28’48” W
Stuck at Hornopiren
4. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ 🌬 30 °C
We woke up and got ready by 9 am. Thr girls and I went to the restaurant opposite our cabin and ordered break while Hristo went to the ferry office to buy the tickets to the 10 am ferry.
He joined us after a while and told that there was a que for the tickets when he reached but then there was an announcement that the 10 am ferry was postponed due to bad weather and that a fresh announcement would be made at 12 pm.
After breakfast, we came back to the cabin and slept for a while more. Melinda and I woke up at 11:30 am went to check at the ferry office. There, we were told that both the ferries had been canceled due to bad weather and heavy storm at Caleta Gonzalo. There was a que for buying the tickets for the next day so we stood in the que. There was a que of cars and trucks standing to get on the ferry. All these people would be stuck at Hornopiren since there was no alternate route to travel South from here. I messaged Hristo to extend our stay at the room since we had seen a lot of people walk past towards the town but he was still sleeping it seems since he didn't receive the messages.
In the meantime I continued standing in the que. There was total chaos there. No one knew what was going on inside the office bit since I was around 15 places behind, I didn't leave my place. After almost 2.5 hrs when I reached the front of the que, I was informed that they were 1st giving tickets to the people whole had the cancelled ferry at 10 am, then the ones who had it at 4 pm and then only after that, will they give the tickets to those who didn't have one. There was a separate que forming for the 'new tickets people'. I moved and stood there. My number was the 2nd bit we would have to wait till the whole main que was over and tickets altered for the ones who had their ferries today. The whole thing took another 2 hours. Around 4 pm, they announced that the ferry tickets for the 10 am ferry the next day were over and that people would have to buy tickets for the day after. On asking the details, we were told that only the vehicle tickets were over bit there still were some left for the passengers. Finally, around 4:30 pm, we reached the counters and were able to buy the tickets for the 10 am ferry the next day.
Just when I reached the counter, there was a ferry coming in and we could see a heavy storm behind it. On inquiring, we were told that only people in the ferry were getting off. This ferry would not be going back.
Just when we left the ferry office, the storm hit the town. We ran and took cover in the information booth cum cafe. The rain beat down like crazy. We couldn't see more tha 5 mts outside. I was quite tired after standing in the que for 5 hours so we sat and had empenadas, cakes and tea at the cafe. There was a short window when the rain reduced a bit so we left back for the cabañas. By the time we reached there, Hristo and Maria had left to have food.
It rained the rest of the evening and we stayed indoors with the fire burning in the fireplace and keeping us warm and cozy. We watched some movies on the TV. We had a late dinner at the restaurant opposite the cabins and then slept off.Les mer
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Dag 96
onsdag 3. januar 2018 21:30
🌬 30 °C
Høyde: 10 m
Chile Río Negro -41.96667, -72.4683341°58’0” S 72°28’6” W
Cabañas Oelckerls
3. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ 🌬 30 °C
From the the harbor, we walked to the cabañas Oelckerls. This, we had been informed was the only bar in the village and might still be open for food. They had very lovely wooden cabins for 4 people and were actually cheaper (at 30000 CLP for 4 persons cabin) than the one we were staying at. But it was 2 kms away from the harbor. It had a nice bar, restaurant and disco along with the cabañas. The rest of the gang decided to stay for dinner while I had had enough stuff at the cafe so I left back for the cabin, had a nice warm shower and slept by the time the rest came back.Les mer
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Dag 96
onsdag 3. januar 2018 21:17
☀️ 14 °C
Høyde: 133 m
Chile Aysén -46.49676, -73.1341146°29’48” S 73°8’3” W
Hornopiren promenade
3. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
The church for the village was right next to the main square. Painted in orange and green, it was totally made of wood. From the main square, we walked 2 streets away to the promenade. There were many lovely wooden houses on the way. At the harbor side, we saw very thick dark clouds and we could see it was raining heavily in the fjords.Les mer
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ReisendeYou guys have been passing thru really tough conditions but have taken in your stride.
23.01.2018Svar
The Craze for TravellingThanks dad. That was the kind of learnings we were hoping to get from this trip.
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Dag 96
onsdag 3. januar 2018 20:58
🌬 30 °C
Høyde: 13 m
Chile Río Negro -41.96667, -72.4716741°58’0” S 72°28’18” W
Hornopiren village
3. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ 🌬 30 °C
It was raining when we left our place and ot continued to drizzle as we walked around the village. The whole town was 2-3 streets around the main square. The main square was very lovely though. There were wooden lamp posts and a board with the town name.Les mer
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Dag 96
onsdag 3. januar 2018 20:37
☀️ 29 °C
Høyde: 22 m
Chile Río Negro -41.96333, -72.4841°57’48” S 72°28’48” W
Cabañas Nido del Aguila
3. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
After searching for about 40 min and looking at 15 different places, they chose a place some 50 mts from the harbor (Nido del Aguila) at 35000 CLP for 4 people. It was a nice cabaña for 4 people with a fireplace in the living room. We lit up the fire and then walked 2 kms to the town. It was still raining when we left the cabaña.Les mer
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Dag 96
onsdag 3. januar 2018 19:46
☀️ 29 °C
Høyde: Sjønivå
Chile Río Negro Airport -41.97167, -72.4716741°58’18” S 72°28’18” W
Hornopiren harbor
3. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
In between whenever the rain stopped, we went out to take some pics of the harbor. The ferry office was closed for the day so we would need to buy the tickets the next day. After getting all the information, we sat there only to have some cakes and tea/coffee. After that Hristo and Maria went around to look for a place to stay.Les mer
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Dag 96
onsdag 3. januar 2018 18:36
⛅ 19 °C
Høyde: Sjønivå
Chile Río Negro Airport -41.97167, -72.4716741°58’18” S 72°28’18” W
Hornopiren
3. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Around 6:30 pm we reached Hornopiren. It was raining heavily. The bus dropped us a little outside of the village. We walked to the harbor around 250 mts away. There was an information booth cum cafe there. We went in and found the lady didn't know much English but was very knowledgeable about the surroundings and the road conditions etc. She told us that there was no ferry for that day. But the next day there was one at 10 am to Caleta Gonzalo and one at 4:30 pm (only for passengers) to Leptepu and a free connecting bus to Caleta Gonzalo. She also told us about the places around Hornopiren that were worth visiting. Another key information she provided was that South of Chaiten there had been a landslide and that ot had been closed for 15 days and won't open for another 2 months. The alternative was to take a ferry from Chaiten all the way to Puerto Balmaceda amd then take the connecting bus to La Junta OR to take the bus to Yelcho lake, take the connecting boat across the lake and then the connecting bus to Futaleufu and then take the regular bus from Futaleufu down South to La Junta or Puyuhuapi.Les mer
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The South American Odyssey The Craze for Travelling
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Dag 96
onsdag 3. januar 2018 17:04
⛅ 19 °C
Høyde: Sjønivå
Chile Caleta Puelche -41.73667, -72.6541°44’12” S 72°39’0” W
Reaching Caleta Puelche
3. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Around 5 pm, we reached the other end of the fjord at Caleta Puelche. From here the road to Hornopiren was very scenic, passing through tiny quaint villages over a distance of 55 kms.
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The South American Odyssey The Craze for Travelling
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Dag 96
onsdag 3. januar 2018 17:04
⛅ 19 °C
Høyde: Sjønivå
Chile Caleta Puelche -41.735, -72.6516741°44’6” S 72°39’6” W
Views from the ferry
3. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
It was quite windy in the ferry but the views were stunning. This place looked no different than the fjords of Norway.
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The South American Odyssey The Craze for Travelling
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Dag 96
onsdag 3. januar 2018 16:20
⛅ 19 °C
Høyde: 7 m
Chile Caleta La Arena -41.69167, -72.6416741°41’30” S 72°38’30” W
Caleta La Arena to Caleta Puelche
3. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
We took the 4:20 pm ferry to cross the fjord. It was a 40 min ride. The fjord was very beautiful and the weather too was quite ok. At least it wasn't raining here.
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