Exploring the rich history, vibrant culture and natural beauty of Malta, Gozo and Comino. Read more
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  • Day 11

    Day 11 • An evening in Rabat

    April 1 in Malta ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    This morning we took the Gozo fast ferry to Valletta and then a BOLT * to Rabat - Mdina for our last two nights on Malta. We visited the Mdina on the way back from Dingli Cliffs last week (see Day 4), but hadn’t wandered around Rabat. Accounts of Rabat - Mdina seem to vary - but there’s no doubting a rich history going back many thousands of years. More info below.

    We arrived at our new digs, grateful for an early check in and delighted to find we had a light and airy studio with kitchen facilities and a sunny terrace. The French went for a stroll to a nearby shop and came back with provisions to make a ham cheese and tomato baguette for lunch on the terrace. 😎.

    In the afternoon The French went back to the Mdina and also did a reconnaissance for likely dinner spots not far from our apartment. He discovered quite a few restaurants in the heart of Rabat, and just 800 metres away. It was a fine evening, and we enjoyed a slow stroll, through some charming narrow streets, and dinner in the courtyard at Castelletti. We had a small (very small) martini blanco as an aperitif (or I should say aperitivo) to begin.

    Lovely evening. Last day tomorrow. 😎

    More here on Rabat and Mdina

    https://www.visitmalta.com/en/a/mdina-and-rabat/

    https://www.malta-guide.net/travel/mdina-rabat-…

    * Travel tip: Up until my knee started playing up we’d mostly taken local buses (frequent, efficient, on time, inexpensive, clean) to move around - when ferries were not an option. In the past few days we’ve opted for a BOLT car door to door. On Malta they have taxis, Uber and BOLT (new to me) with the last being the most popular. We’ve never waited more than a few minutes. Given the size of Malta, and Gozo much smaller still, it’s rare to need a long/expensive journey. Most of our journeys have been between 5 and 10 kms. Recommend downloading the BOLT app if visiting Malta / Gozo.
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  • Day 12

    Day 12 • A post for Camino walkers

    April 2 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    There is a short Camino in Malta, which has been recognised as an ‘official’ route to Santiago de Compostela.

    The local XirCammini association is active and enthusiastic. I was in touch with them a while ago and the gentleman I corresponded with, James, was very welcoming. In our email exchange, he told me ‘the Camino is in its infancy and - in this respect - also a work in progress. It is labour of love which the volunteer organisation XirCammini has embarked upon and that is coming to fruition. Almost 400 people have already walked the Malta segment of the Camino Maltes since its official roll out in March 2023.’

    The Camino has its own Kredenzjal (credenciale). The XirCammini website describes this short camino in the following way:

    ‘The Malta segment of the Camino Maltés is only 35km, typically completed in 1 or 2 days. The route of the Malta segment of the Camino Maltés joins the route of the Universal Peace Walk over several waypoints. It starts in Rabat, joining the Universal Peace Walk 1543AD in Mdina and continues on the Universal Peace Walk 1543AD until St. Gregory’s Church in Zejtun (i.e. for approximately 28km). From Zejtun the Camino Maltés continues through Zabbar to the 3 cities, stopping at Fort St. Angelo, Birgu (Citta Vittoriosa). ‘

    We had already decided not to walk this Camino during this holiday, as I was not up to walking 10 kms or more at a time and so, at best, it would take two or three days of our time here. But we were delighted to come across signs of The Way.

    On Day 1, I posted that on our first afternoon in Malta, on Bigur in The Three Cities, we visited Fort Saint Angelo, which we discovered is also the end point of the Camino Maltes. From there, pilgrims would cross the sea to the southern tip of Sicily, crossing again to Sardinia, and again to Barcelona … then on dry land on to Santiago de Compostela.

    You will see from the map that the Camino Maltes does not start in or pass through Valletta - now the capital but a city built ‘only’ in the 16th century. In fact it starts in Rabat. During his walk in Rabat this morning, The French visited the catacombs of Saint Paul, and discovered it is also the starting point of the Camino Maltes.

    It seems fitting to us that we would have this camino connection on our first and last days here. We’d like to walk this short Camino one day - who knows, perhaps continuing on through Sicily … and maybe Sardinia … Another good reason to return to Malta. 😎

    https://caminomaltes.mt/
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  • Day 13

    We love the Maltese Islands

    April 3 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    A postscript to our 'sejour' on the Maltese Islands.

    Our time in France is coming to a close for this year - we are going home to Pretty Beach in early May. Before our return, we wanted to go 'somewhere' for a few weeks. With our usual 'go to’ holiday of long distance walking out of the question for now, we went searching for a destination. Somewhere new to us, relatively easy to get to, near the sea, maybe a little warmer weather, with interesting history and culture, natural beauty - and good food.

    The Maltese archipelago seemed to have it all ... and it did not disappoint. In fact, I think it exceeded all our expectations. Malta has an extraordinary history that has led to today's rich and varied culture and architecture. At times it reminded me of Morocco, at other times of Andalusia and of Italy. All this, overlaid with the many French and British influences.

    While the Maltese language sounded like a combination of Arabic and Italian, having two official languages - Maltese and English - makes for easy travelling for English speakers. We were warmly welcomed by all our hosts. Our lasting feeling, at least as visitors, is that everyone is welcome in Malta.

    On a personal note, there were many moments during this holiday where I thought of my darling mum Helen - soon to turn 95. She was the first person I ever knew who had visited Malta - in fact she visited twice, some decades ago. A friend from Brisbane had moved there with her Maltese husband and they had invited Helen to visit as a side trip to her UK holidays. Not long before we left to travel to Valletta, I was speaking to Helen about her visits and she sang the praises of Malta as she did all those decades ago. And now we know why. It was a bonus to feel that we were following in her 'trail blazing' footsteps.

    Helen also reminded me that her great uncle, James Connolly (later Sir James) was Agent General for NSW in Malta from 1929 to 1932, during which time he promoted migration from Malta to Australia. These days, Australia is home to the largest Maltese diaspora in the world, so maybe he played a small part in that. Certainly, many of our hosts in Malta and Gozo, were excited to tell us they had family members living in Australia.

    There is plenty of information 'out there' about the unique history, culture and natural beauty of the Maltese Islands. No need for me to write more. but, in short, we loved our time there and hope to return one day. ❤️🇲🇹❤️

    https://www.visitmalta.com/en/
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