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February 2023
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  • Tui Snider

February 2023

Sailing to Africa, rounding the cape, & crossing the Atlantic! Leer más
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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Rough Seas & Broken Bones

    19 de febrero de 2023, Sudáfrica ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    Seas were rough on the way from Durban to Elizabethtown (or Gqerbah, as it seems to be called on the maps!)

    Simply walking around the ship was a challenge as it pitched and rolled, but Larry and I didn’t mind, nor do we get seasick as some folks do.

    For some reason, our dock wasn’t ready when we arrived in Elizabethtown, so they sent us to a different dock.

    Three ambulances met the ship to cart off four injured people. One was a member of the kitchen staff who broke his arm during the rocky transit.

    Two more passengers were injured by the rocky ship, but the fourth had a medical emergency of some other kind.

    Unfortunately, our photo safari was cancelled because the tour buses were at the dock where we were originally supposed to be.

    We opted to stay on the ship today. We’ve heard so many tales of crimes from other passengers in South Africa, that it’s less than inviting to go for a stroll. We might get more of an adventure than we bargained for!

    Instead, we had a relaxing day on the ship, swimming and playing Scrabble. While we play Scrabble, I edit photos and write blog posts.

    The shore excursion folks have shifted us to a different game reserve for tomorrow. I’ll let you know how it goes.

    p.s. The photo here is a Chantilly swan dessert from last night’s dinner. Yum!    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    A Literal Tidal Pool

    19 de febrero de 2023, Sudáfrica ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    When I hear the phrase “tidal pool,” I think of a natural formation at low tide. Here in South Africa, it means a literal swimming pool created at the seaside.

    In addition to shark nets, this walled off section of ocean creates a safer environment for swimmers by lessening the chance of them being pulled to sea by the powerful riptides here.

    Despite these dangers, our guide tells us that an international surfing competition takes place here every year.

    I love the sea, and found a peaceful looking spot to wade. As I walked down the steps, however, a big wave came and drenched me!

    Even though I got utterly soaked, it was so hot out that it was actually quite refreshing and I was nearly dry by the time we returned to the ship.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Crime in Durban

    19 de febrero de 2023, Sudáfrica ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Of all the places we have visited in our many travels, Durban has the dubious distinction of being the place where the most people we know were mugged!

    A trio of friends went for a stroll around 10 a.m. They didn’t get far before a couple of men ran up and attempted to steal one guy’s fanny pack.

    As he struggled with his assailants, some locals came up and helped chase the attackers off.

    None of the victims were walking alone, at night, or in areas that seemed “dodgy.” One attack occurred within sight of the ship, very close to the dock.

    No one was hurt, at least, although one criminal put his hands around a woman’s neck as if to choke her. Scary!

    Meanwhile at the beach, a woman had her cellphone snatched from her hands and she relaxed in the sun.

    These are just a few of the muggings we heard about. All of them were in broad daylight!

    We took the ship’s tour today, and they only let us off the bus once. Along the way, we passed sign after sign for “armed response” security companies.

    Barbed wire and electric fences were on the perimeter of every apartment and house. Many had guards sitting at the entrance.

    As we drove through the downtown, our guide said, “This is a bad part of town. Don’t go walking here.”

    After all the stories I heard today, I certainly believe her!    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Mauritius

    15 de febrero de 2023, Mauricio ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    We leisurely taxi tour in Mauritius. The town was pretty dingy, but we enjoyed the local market.

    Larry bartered long and hard with the man you see in the photo. They were having a good time, though, and other shopkeepers were chuckling over the intense negotiation, as well.

    I got a kick out of the “hipster Shiva” t shirt. There’s quite a mix of cultures here, since after slavery was abolished in the 1800s, many folks came from India to work the sugar cane fields. (Of course, even though they were not technically slaves, the conditions weren’t exactly great, either.)

    The market smelled of curry and fresh fruit. Dodo birds were a common design motif here, since this is where they once thrived.

    In fact, as part of Larry’s wheeling and dealing, the shopkeeper gave us some Mauritian currency featuring a dodo bird.

    After the market, our cabbie took us to a beach that locals enjoy. We had it all to ourselves because it was a weekday.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Rainy Day on Reunion Island

    14 de febrero de 2023, reunión ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    We had a mellow day on Reunion Island. The rain made it too foggy to justify a taxi tour, so we took a shuttle into Port Louis and wandered around, instead.

    We’d heard that due to the French influence here that the bakeries were quite good, but hardly any were open today.

    There was a place called “O’Tacos” that claimed to be home of “the original French taco.”

    Say what?

    At that point, however, I was holding out for a chocolate croissant, but as mentioned before, most places were closed.

    During our stroll we passed a colorful Hindu temple, but it was also closed today.

    I did buy a pair of beach sandals to replace the ones that fell apart on the Seychelles, as well as a colorful dress that was locally made.

    As I said, it was a very mellow day!    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Toamasina Dancers

    13 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    The people of Toamasina have interacted with sailers for centuries and it was easy to see and hear the European influence in their local culture.

    Once again, our ship was met with lively dancers. We also saw dancers during our fruit buffet, and while walking through the local village.

    It was a hot and humid day full of bright colors and new to me cultures.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Toamasina Market

    13 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    Armed soldiers stood at many intersections in Toamasina, a sight that always makes me uneasy.

    The local market was big and bustling. I noticed men with t shirts labeling them as security patrolling the perimeter outside.

    When a young girl approached us with a basket of green oranges, one of the guards chased her off, while brandishing his billy club. I hadn’t planned to buy any, but I felt sorry for her nonetheless.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero
    1

    Pangalanes Canal

    13 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    Today we docked in Madagascar’s main seaport, Toamasina, and explored the area nearby.

    “Toamasina” means “it’s salty” and there’s a funny story behind the name. Many years ago, a man who had grown up in the highlands of Madagascar visited.

    He was thirsty after his long voyage, so he took a big swig of seawater only to exclaim, “It’s salty!” Somehow the name stuck.

    Our guide for the day was a fellow named Lachaka, which means “destiny” in Malagasy.
    The first part of our tour in Toamasina was a tour down the Pangalanes Canal.

    While a man steered the boat from the stern, a third guy stood on the bow keeping an eye out for any debris that might get tangled in our outboard engine along the way. (Even so, the boat broke down a couple of times during our trip.)

    Lachaka explained that the section of the canal we were on was man made during the colonial period and that, “Many, many workers died while digging here. Conditions were very bad, like slavery.” (This is a familiar refrain for canals of the world, alas.)

    These days, locals rely on the canal for fishing and trade. For many, this waterway is their main avenue for travel.

    Lachaka taught us how to say “hello” in Malagasy. People were quick to wave and return our greetings as we floated by.

    By the way, even though people do laundry in the canal, the women holding the sheet in these photos are using it to fish.

    Other things that piqued my interest included boats with sails made from rice bags, as well as the voluptuous carving on the prow of a ship.

    And while we’d been warned to keep an eye out for crocs, I did not expect to see a pink one today!    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero
    1

    Chameleons in Toamasina

    13 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    Some of the village kids in Madagascar make money by letting tourists like me pose with chameleons.

    Another group of kids had some cute little animals in a bucket with a hat nearby for tips. Do you know what type of animal they are? I wasn’t able to find out.

    Chickens wandered all over the village and I was surprised by how long their legs are.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Flower Children

    13 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    Our guide on the west side of Madagascar mentioned that, “In your movies, the men give their women flowers for the day of love, but we would never do that here.”

    “Why not?” a Swiss woman asked. “Flowers are romantic.”

    “Maybe to you,” Philippe laughed, “but not to my people. Here, we only give flowers at funerals. If I bring flowers to my wife, she will think I wish her to die!”

    Meanwhile, on the east side of Madagascar, villagers displayed young children under woven bowers decorated with colorful blossoms. Each child had a hat nearby to collect tips.

    I tossed dollars in as many hats as possible as Lachaka whisked us through the village.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Village House

    13 de febrero de 2023, Indian Ocean

    As we wandered along the main path through the village, Lachaka waved our group to one side.

    “Come this way,” he said, steering us down a narrow walkway.

    “Where are we going?” people asked.

    “A woman wishes to show you her house,” he explained.

    Sure enough, a woman stood in front of a small hut. As we approached, she smiled and beckoned for us to come closer.

    I looked for a place to leave a tip, but Lachaka said, “No, no. She doesn’t want money. She only wants you to see her house.”

    Most people declined, but to me it felt rude not to take up her offer.

    A French couple stepped forward with me, and we walked inside her home. The front porch was a tire filled with sand, and playing cards were strewn about the entrance. (Everything else was so tidy that I wonder if the cards were there on purpose, but I don’t really know.)

    The interior of her home was sparse but very tidy. Bundles of flowers hung from the walls creating a lovely aroma as well as cheery decoration.

    The woman did not speak English, and I don’t know any Malagasy, but I did my best to convey my gratitude with a smile.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Breadfuit

    13 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    You may not think you know what breadfruit looks like, but if you’ve ever seen a Hawaiian shirt, you probably recognize the leaf.

    Breadfruit leaves are a popular design motif throughout the tropics. But why?

    The tree is native to the tropics, and its fruit is more savory than sweet. So like potatoes and rice, it can provide a hearty staple.

    Not only did the native peoples of Oceania spread breadfruit across the region, but during colonial times, breadfruit was used to feed slaves.

    Locals often tell me how tasty it is, but I’ve yet to eat any. I saw breadfruit chips (like potato chips) for sale in the Seychelles, but I didn’t have any money on me at the time. One of these days!    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Blessings from the Chief

    13 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    The downpour continued as our boat pulled ashore so Lachaka suggested wearing life jackets in lieu or raincoats.

    A small crowd of locals met us as we disembarked. If they thought we looked silly in our life jackets, I couldn’t tell. Some were hawking goods, but most seemed to be there out of curiosity.

    Before we could interact, Lachaka directed us to a forested path that offered shelter from the rain. Between that and the life jacket, I was pretty cozy. It was so hot and humid that none of us felt chilled.

    After carefully wandering up a slick hill, we were ushered into a hut. (It reminded me a lot of our backyard tiki hut, actually.)

    Inside, two men sat at a table. Lachaka explained that the man in the hat was the village chief and part of his job was greeting all visitors.

    The chief spoke to us in Malagasy and I did not understand a word. According to Lachaka’s interpretation, however, not only did he welcome us to his village and extend blessings to us and our families back home, but he even offered blessings to our deceased ancestors, as well.

    After these words, the chief blessed us by dipping a tree branch in water and flicking water droplets on us.

    Lachaka told us that the hat on the table was there in case we wanted to leave a tip, and many of us did so.

    As I mentioned before, Madagascar has 18 different ethnic groups. Lachaka and the members of this village are part of the Betsimisaraka people.

    Betsimisaraka means “the many inseparables,” and mainly live on the eastern side of Madagascar.

    As coastal peoples, they have interacted with Europeans for a long time, and integrated many things into their own culture.

    As we wandered the village, we saw people pounding rice (to de hull it), and cooking meals over small charcoal fires.

    I don’t usually carry any money ashore, but a little voice told me to take a bunch of ones this morning. I’m glad I did, because so many people in the village had hats out for tips.

    I noticed a well for the village that was donated by Muslims and it reminded me of our other guide’s “Hakuna Matata” remark about how the people of Madagascar are comfortable cherry-picking from any religion that appeals to them.

    Our visit ended with a fruit buffet and live song and dance. Everything was delicious, but my favorites were the mango and the little bananas.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Voice of the Sea

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    Larry and I were chosen to take part in the ship’s Voice of the Sea competition. Larry auditioned with Elton John’s “Candle in the Wind,” while I sang Sarah Brightman’s “Think of Me.”

    For the show, Larry performed “My Way,” since it’s such a crowd pleaser and he does it well.

    The ships had a very small list of songs to choose from and I couldn’t find anything for a soprano in the English choices. On a whim, I chose the German song, “99 Luftballons.”

    I could have sung it in English, but I’ve met a lot of nice Germans on the ship, and no one else was singing a tune in their language.

    I figured German people might get a kick out of it, and it would be a fun challenge, to boot. My German friend, Tom, helped me with pronunciation.

    I learned a lot!

    Our server, Edgar, kept the wine flowing during dinner on the night of the show and even sent us out the door with a couple glasses to go!

    We weren’t able to watch the show, alas, because they kept us backstage where we could only see it on a black and white monitor.

    Singing with a live band is so much fun! Larry and I had a great time. We even made it to the final 3.

    In the end, a woman from Holland won. She sang Cohen’s “Hallelujah.” It was well deserved. Her voice is beautiful.

    I really hope they will offer regular karaoke on the ship. This was fun, but I much prefer singing when it’s not a competition. It’s a wonderful way to meet fellow music lovers.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Hellville Market

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    According to Philippe, the difference between a town and a village in Madagascar is that a town has electricity and a village does not.

    We ended our tour of Nosy Be with a visit to the the town of Hellville.

    I noticed charcoal for sale in various places. Philippe says most people rely on it to cook food. “Our villages have no TV, of course, so that’s why we have so many children,” Philippe joked.

    “Before, every family in Madagascar wanted 14 children. That was the wish. But now, our government tells us that’s too many. So now we try to only have a few, maybe five or six. Not so many as before.”

    Philippe went on to explain that, “We have many problems here, but religion is not one of them.”

    Philippe told us that since the 18 tribes of Madagascar already have such a wide variety of different beliefs, “So no one cares if you have a different religion. People can worship what they like. We even have ‘Muslics’ here. These are people who observe Ramadan, celebrate Christmas, and whatever else they want.”

    As we contemplated his words, he added, “Everything’s ok here, you know? It’s Hakuna Matata, baby!”

    It was an entertaining ride to the Hellville Market. The spice section of the market smelled lovely. Larry and I bought some vanilla from the woman in the first photo.

    Madagascar is also known for its pepper corns. I love pepper, but wasn’t sure why they put them in old plastic water bottles.

    As I walked over to a basket of muddy crabs, I thought I saw a cat zip by out of my peripheral vision. I even felt a little whisper of air. According to Larry, however, it was a great big rat!    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Holy Tree in Nosy Be

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    If you remember the plot to the first “Avatar” movie, then certain aspects of the story behind this tremendous tree may sound familiar! Read on:

    In 1836, the Queen of the Sakalava tribe planted what has become an enormous banyan tree.

    Every year, the current queen conducts a ritual here during which a zebu is sacrificed in exchange for blessings to the Sakalava people.

    According to our guide, Philippe, his people come to this tree all throughout the year instead of going to a church. This tree is their holy space.

    In fact, the Latin name for “banyan tree” is “ficus religiosa” since the Buddha attained enlightenment while sitting beneath one. (Many banyan trees around the world are treated as holy spaces. Makes sense to me!)

    “My people believe this tree contains the souls of all our ancestors, and just as we cannot tell where the roots begin and end, so are our souls connected in the afterlife. We come here to feel that connection. Here we can communicate with our ancestors.”

    Philippe told us that as they sing and dance at the tree, “People can have a trance. Trance is very important to us.”

    People go barefoot during rituals at this sacred tree and Philippe showed us how the men wear a colorful wrap around their legs.

    In addition to his tribe, Philippe said that people journey from all over the world to meditate and pray beneath this tree. I certainly enjoyed a few quiet moments beneath its tremendous branches.

    “Many people tell me they feel an energy from this tree,” Philippe told us. “We believe it is our ancestors. When we come here to ask them for help, we leave offerings of coins, rum, honey, and red or white cloth.”

    “No zebu?” Larry asked.

    “Of course, zebu!” Philippe laughed, “But only for big requests, such as a marriage or funerals. We come here to make offerings, and we must drink a lot of rum to please our ancestors. We don’t like rum, but we must drink it for them.”

    I noticed that anytime the subject of rum came up, Philippe would deny liking it, but say his people had to drink it to appease their ancestors.

    There are many elaborate taboos in Madagascar, and for Philippe’s tribe, it may be taboo to say that you like drinking rum, but I’ll write about the complex “fady” a.k.a. “taboo” system in another post.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Feeding a Wild Lemur!

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    We saw many different kinds of lemurs in Madagascar, but whatever kind is pictured here, are may absolute favorites!

    There was no need to squint at them from afar, because these furry fellows hopped through the branches and shimmied right down to eye level.

    Our guide had brought some little bananas, which are a favorite treat for lemurs.

    When I held out a piece, one of them immediately hopped over. He delicately grasped my hand and raised it to his mouth so he could take it. (If you look closely, you can see the moment he let go of my hand in one of the photos.)

    The lemur was cute and his little hand so gentle that he absolutely stole my heart!

    One of our friends had an enchanting lemur encounter, too: After playing peekaboo with one of these fuzzy primates, the creature offered the human a piece of fruit, as if to say, “Thank you, friend!”    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Snake Dancers

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    As we wandered through the beautiful grounds, we came upon a group of locals singing and dancing.

    As you can see, one guy had a snake around his neck. He kept quite a grip on the creature’s neck, which made me wonder if it was venomous. (Maybe it was just not in the mood to dance!)

    The dancers all wore shirts labeling them as staff, so I’m not sure if they were holding a snake simply to impress tourists, or if it held more significance than that.

    I would have liked to ask questions about the whole scene, but we’d lost our guide at this point, so I wasn’t able to do more than just observe.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Madagascar Tortoises

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    They keep three kinds of Madagascar tortoise at the Ylang Ylang farm.

    The first photo shows a Star Tortoise. Their shells are so pretty!

    As you can see, male Soc Tortoises have a bony protuberance in front. They can fight each other with this, although I imagine it must be a very slow paced fight.

    And lastly, you see a Bell Tortoise named Napoleon. According to our guide, Napoleon is more than 220 years old.

    Sadly, he was shot during a war (stupid humans!) You can see the damage to his shell. This wound caused him to go blind when he was around 200 years old.

    Our guide says they make sure Napoleon stays well fed, and that he continues to thrive despite losing his sight.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Balancing Acts

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    It would never occur to me to go for a stroll with beach bag on my head, but here in Africa people carry many things this way!

    This trio of young men, for instance, looked like guys you might see anywhere as they checked their cell phones, talking and laughing… except for the bundles of fabric they casually carried on their heads.

    At one point, I noticed a woman gracefully carrying a box of bread on her head, as well as a baby in a sling on her back.

    As I admired her balance, another woman waved her over. The bread lady casually weaved through traffic, then knelt in front of her.

    After this customer chose a loaf and money changed hands, the bread lady rose to her feet and continued on her way!    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Nosy Be Dancers

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    When our tender boat reached the dock at Nosy Be, it was a chaotic scene.

    As passengers rushed up the gangway, I peered into the azure water and saw that it was thick with fish! Most appeared to be silvery herring, but these were punctuated with bright orange and yellow fish, as well.

    Unfortunately, the throng of impatient passengers prevented me from being able to stop and get a photo of this wondrous sight.

    Locals greeted our ship’s arrival with an energetic dance as tuk tuks zipped by, taxi cabs called out to us, vendors hawked their wares, and tour vans parked willy nilly.

    The dance was really something: One woman casually balanced a bottle on her head, while the other women took turns writhing face down on the ground and twerking!

    Add a hefty dose of heat and humidity to this and you have one hectic scene!    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Ylang Ylang Farm

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    We visited a Ylang Ylang farm near Nosy Be, Madagascar. See that tree I’m standing under? It’s Ylang Ylang.

    And see how the trees are hunched over? They are pruned this way so that the blossoms can be picked without a ladder.

    Ylang Ylang blossoms are a lighter green than the leaves, nor do they look like a traditional flower blossom.

    At the entrance to the factory, they had a framed photo of Ghandhi with a wonderful quote, “Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.”

    Must confess that we were melting from the heat and humidity at the ylang ylang distillery.

    I much preferred our trek through the neighboring forest, where we saw bananas growing, and so many gorgeous plants.

    I smelled Ylang Ylang everywhere we went that day. It wasn’t until I undressed for a shower back on the ship that I realized I was the culprit; a little sprig of Ylang Ylang blossoms was snagged in my bra strap!    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Chameleons, Skinks & Sleeping Snake

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    While walking the grounds of the Ylang Ylang farm, Philippe took us on a hunt for chameleons. Along the way, we also saw a skink, geckoes, and some crocodiles.

    Chameleons blend into the vegetation so expertly that each one we found was a thrill.

    At one point, Philippe gently lured a chameleon onto a stick so we could have a closer look at the beautiful creature.

    He also pointed out a boa constrictor coiled up in the leaves nearby!

    “This one’s a baby,” Philippe explained. “We are safe because they sleep all day.”

    I love snakes, but after that, I watched my step!    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Madagascar Canoes

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    No sooner had our ship set anchor near Nosy Be, than a dozen or so dugout canoes paddled right up to us.

    One man sold fruit directly to passengers as they sat in their tender boats. Others sold handmade souvenirs.

    A few, however, seemed to be visiting our ship out of curiosity more than anything else.

    We also saw single sail boats. Having grown up with one, I have a soft spot for that type of water craft. It reminds me of many happy hours sailing with my dad.    Leer más

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  • Tui SniderFebruary 2023Viajero

    Zebu

    11 de febrero de 2023, Madagascar

    Zebu are extremely important animals in Madagascar and we saw them everywhere we went.

    Zebu are a type of bovine, but unlike cows we have in the USA, these guys have a large hump between their shoulder blades. This special adaptation enables them to endure famine.

    Every guide we met emphasized the importance of zebu to their tribes, although the exact nature of this importance varied.

    In Nosy Be, Philippe told us that until recently, a man could not get married unless he could offer at least one zebu to his bride’s family in exchange. (Nowadays, money will do, as well.)

    In Toamasina, Lachaka told us that in the southwest part of Madagascar, a man must steal a zebu before he can marry. (This theft is a ritual to prove his courage, and the zebu is returned to its rightful owner afterwards.)

    Later, when Lachaka proudly told us that he owned two zebu, Larry teasingly asked if he had stolen them. Lachaka laughed and said, “No, no! Only in the southwest!”

    Zebu don’t produce much milk. They are mostly used for labor and meat. They are a part of every major event here, from weddings, births, religious rites, funerals, and holidays.

    I apologize that my zebu photos aren’t the best. As we passed them pulling carts on the roads, the windows of our rattletrap van were so cracked and dirty that photographing anything was a challenge.

    Even so, there were many intriguing sites whizzing by. Madagascar fascinates me!    Leer más

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