Turkey
Izmir

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    • Day 6

      Practice for 9 September

      September 8, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

      Caught the Türk Yıldızları (Turkish Stars) — the 6-man Turkish Air Force demonstration team — practicing again for tomorrow’s 101st anniversary of İzmir’s liberation from Greek forces on 9 September 2023 … and the culmination of the Turkish War of Independence.Read more

    • Day 3

      Our Travel Day Concludes in İzmir

      September 30, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 75 °F

      Another uneventful flight — the final one of our inbound trip — brought us from IST to ADB.

      TK2336 departed IST on time for the 50-minute flight. As soon as the aircraft completed its climb to cruising altitude, we were served a hot meal … karnıyarık (eggplant with a ground beef filling) and rice … one of our favorite Turkish dishes. Dessert was a mango nougat mousse. All delicious, but considering we began descending for ADB almost as soon as we were level, we had to scarf down the food.

      Our flight landed on time and taxied up to a jetway, which made it easier to deplane at the domestic terminal and make our way to the international terminal to collect our luggage. It’s a ridiculous process since there’s never anyone at customs and everyone just walks out of baggage claim. Then again, it beats having to claim bags in İstanbul at the conclusion of an international flight and then turn them back in again for a domestic flight.

      At the taxi rank, we were immediately shown to the next cab that pulled up. This was probably one of our fastest times from airplane to ground transportation. Since it was 8:30p by this time, there was hardly any traffic. A half-hour later, we were unloading the bags in front of the apartment in Alsancak.

      We have checked in with my family, but the actual reunion will be tomorrow morning. We’ll see everyone for breakfast at my sister’s place tomorrow morning.

      In the meantime, some shuteye is in order. It’s after 10:30p. Time to go to bed!
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    • Day 19

      İzmir Kültürpark

      September 21, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

      The IEF — İzmir Enternasyonal Fuarı — translates as the İzmir International Fair. Indeed, an international affair it was, with countries from around the world attending to showcase their products … big and small.

      In my youth, the fair used to be a month-long event that heralded the end of summer. Strolling the fairgrounds in the evenings; going on rides in the Luna Park; attending plays and concerts featuring A-list stars in the open air theaters; browsing the country and company pavilions and stalls for goods and sweet treats. These and more were all part of the fun. There was even a parachute jump for those who wished for a bit of daredevilry.

      In recent years, the annual fair has become a smaller affair. But the fairgrounds, which are generally referred to as Kültürpark (Culture Park), still see extensive use by the public as they did in the past. Some go there to walk or run the purpose-built path; others go for a stroll, a picnic, or just to meet friends; lovers rendezvous in quiet corners. On Wednesdays a farmer’s market is hosted near one of the entrances. Concerts and plays are still held periodically. Sometimes the country pavilions are pressed into service as exhibit space.

      It was the latter that took mom, Aylin, and me to Kültürpark today. I’ll post about the exhibits separately. In the meantime, here are a couple of quick shots from around the park.
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    • Day 19

      International Textile Biennial: Scissors

      September 21, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

      What took Mom, Aylin, and me to Kültürpark was the International Textile Biennial, which is being hosted by the İzmir Municipality.

      The exhibits are on display at various venues around the city, two of which are at pavilions in Kültürpark … a short 5-minute walk from Mom’s apartment. We decided to check these out first to decide if we wanted to go further afield in the upcoming weeks to see some of the other exhibits.

      The theme of the Textile Biennial is “… Slow down, Focus on the Touch.” Meticulously handcrafted fabric art is intended to remind the audience of the power and meaning of textiles, and highlight sustainable and ethical practices. Quotes on the walls of the venues are designed to encourage this mindset.

      The first exhibit, housed in the former Pakistan Pavilion built in 1938 — during the heyday of the İzmir International Fair (mentioned in the previous footprint) — was a small one. Four glass cases displayed scissors from various time periods. Interesting … but what was to come would really capture our attention.
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    • Day 9

      Ancient hospital ruins in Bergema

      May 28 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      Beautiful road trip today down the west coast of türkiye where we can see the greek islands off the coast. the landscape is like a patchwork of green agriculture (figs, fruit, vegetables) but mostly olive trees (bear olives for olive oil 7 years after planting and live for 2 thousand years) - they are everywhere and the olive oil is delicious!
      We drove to the ruins of the Asklepion medical centre or healing place in Bergema, it is one of the most important centres of healing of the Roman world. To keep its reputation of successful healing high it did not accept people who were near death and only admitted people who were rich. It was amazing to see the treatment rooms, mental health ward which used music, dance, dream interpretation, herbs and mythology to treat ‘ill health of the head’. We learned about the first recorded use of placebo in treatment. The healing place had a library, isolation rooms, ampitheatre, cubicles, prayer rooms, healing water, portico and ruins still show the layout. We could have stayed there all day, built in 302 bc and which honoured Asclepius the first doctor-demigod in Greek mythology.
      We ate the most delicious lunch at a local cafe which was DELICIOUS and then travelled onto Izmir, a busy fishing city on the coast side which gave us a magnificent sunset. Ended our day with another walk water side, thankful for our experiences in beautiful Türkiye
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    • Day 21

      Last Day of Abbreviated Europe Trip

      March 18, 2020 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

      Our departure day is nearly at hand ... much earlier than anticipated when we set out from Colorado on 27 February. Tomorrow morning we head to the airport to begin the long haul back.

      We’re sad, but the circumstances are what they are. Our goal now is to get home safe and sound. Reports from several friends who have entered the US from overseas in the past few days indicate no hassles or delays at the airports ... at least at the international terminals. 🤞🏻our experience follows suit.

      This morning Aylin hosted us for breakfast. Afterwards, Mui and I left to get haircuts at the barber at the US military facility here in İzmir ... one less thing to have to deal with when we get home.

      Since we had time before our appointment, we decided to take a circuitous route to get to the barber. The weather was nice and a bit of fresh air was in order ... felt really good after two bone-chillingly cold days. I’ve never seen Kordon, the waterfront promenade, this deserted ... except perhaps on census day. With all the bars, pubs, cafés, bistros, coffee houses, and similar establishments temporarily closed by government decree, only a few souls were out and about ... and most of those people were fishing on the boardwalk. The shops were mostly deserted ... some limiting the number of patrons who can enter at any one time to two or three.

      I’m now at mom’s ... Aylin and Murat joined us for afternoon tea. As did Mui ... after taking care of a few last minute errands. We’ll have dinner together as a family before Mui and I head back to the condo for an early night ... we’ll be off to the airport at 6:00a.
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    • Day 39

      Dinner @ Kalyon

      October 11, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

      A day that started with breakfast at a gevrek bakery, ended with dinner at Kalyon … one of our favorite eateries — a pub, really — in Alsancak. This was a belated anniversary celebration for both Aylin & Murat and Hakan & Serenay.

      Another joyful family outing as time together slowly begins to dwindle on this year’s gathering. But first … we have several more outings in the works.
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    • Day 20

      Bornova: EÜ Ethnography Museum

      September 22, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

      This morning, the three siblings and Mui met up at the Lozan entrance to Kültürpark. Not to explore it, mind you. Rather, we would be using the park as a shortcut to get to the Basmane District, from where we hopped on the metro to Bornova, another district of İzmir.

      On our agenda were three different museums. But before we got where we planned to go, a sign pointing to the Ege University Ethnography Museum caused us to make a detour. None of us knew this museum, founded under the auspices of the university, even existed. It turned out to be a hidden gem.

      The museum is housed in a stone house that dates back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Known as the Sirkehane [vinegar factory], the original owners of the house are unknown. The indoor well, apparently a known feature of the Levantine homes of the time, points to it likely being owned by a Levantine family. In any event, because the owners could not be identified, the property was taken over by the National Treasury in 1943. After being used for a variety of purposes, it was given to the university and eventually restored as the museum that we visited today,

      The items on display are housed in two separate buildings. In the main building (the house) is a collection of traditional costumes and accessories from Anatolia, Thrace, and the Balkan countries. Also in this building is the kitchen that would have been used back in the day by the family who lived in the house.

      In another section of the house, are the “wedding house” exhibits. One room features the traditional pre-wedding henna ceremony. Another room features the documenting of the dowry. As the young woman who works at the museum explained, it was tradition to make a list of every item the bride brought with her and the wedding gifts … complete with valuation of the items. In the event of the dissolution of the marriage due to death or other reasons, the documented items would then be returned to the woman. Very forward thinking considering the times.

      The second building held a collection of musical instruments from Türkiye as well as from around the world. We also found a number of small rooms on the perimeter of the courtyard where dioramas represented traditional industries, such as shoe making, tailoring, copper and tin working.

      We all enjoyed our whirlwind visit to the museum. My only complaint? The glass cases in which almost everything was displayed. You’ll notice the glare in the photos that accompany this footprint. Taking photos was challenging and, after a while, I gave up. I understand that the cases are essential for protecting the items. That doesn’t mean I have to like them.

      All that said, a brochure we picked up at the Ethnography Museum lists 14 museums under the auspices of Ege University. Not sure if we will be able to visit them all, however. Time will tell!
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    • Day 20

      Bornova: Arkas Maritime History Center

      September 22, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

      From Pagy Köşkü, we retraced our steps back down the street to another mansion dating back to the 1800s. Our destination was the Arkas Maritime History Center … which, the sign at the door promoted as the place where “… witnesses to centuries of maritime heritage are brought to life …”. An apt description.

      The museum was founded by Lucien Arkas, whose family’s Levantine roots in İzmir go very deep. Having visited several other museums founded by the family, I knew we were more than likely in for a treat. We were not disappointed.

      The founder’s message tells how years ago Lucien Arkas was so impressed by a ship’s model of HMS Victory (by Engin Alsan) that he ordered his first ship model. That started him on his quest for all things maritime … a collection over 30 years in the making. The items on display cover a period from 1000 B.C. to the present day, comprising wide and varied models of legendary ships, nautical objects, and canvases by Turkish and international painters.

      Once again, the glare from the glass display cases caused me to minimize my shutter clicks, but it was an otherwise wonderful museum to visit. Highly recommended … especially to aficionados of maritime history.
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    • Day 20

      Bornova: Pagy Köşkü

      September 22, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

      From the Ege University Ethnography Museum, the siblings & Mui headed to the 19th century Pagy Köşkü (PagyMansion) … now Bayetav Art.

      Once the home of prominent Levantine families, today the building hosts art exhibits under the auspices of BAYETAV, an organization whose full name translates as “We Live Together - Education and Social Research Foundation.”

      The signage on the grounds describes the place as “… a space of encounter aimed at bringing together creations of various disciplines and contributing to the strengthening of social, cultural, and urban memory. …” It is the foundation’s intent to host “… various exhibitions and events in the fields of culture, art and design with a view to promote ways of living together and creating a new space for research and expression.”

      Unfortunately for us, we missed the “Ode to Earth” Exhibit that apparently ended barely a week ago, so there wasn’t much to see. Nonetheless, a few things caught our eye as we did a quick wander inside the mansion.

      [P.S. For those unfamiliar with the word Levantine … this is a term that pertains to the Levant, the region centered around modern Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Palestine, and Jordan. It was an important region of the Ottoman Empire. In Türkiye, the term refers to the descendants of Europeans who settled in the coastal cities of the Ottoman Empire for trading purposes. (Some consider it a derogatory term, though that is rarely the case. It is widely used to describe a group of people who had considerable influence on the development of a specific culture in the Western Mediterranean Region.]
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    İzmir, Izmir, إزمير, Измир, Σμύρνη, Izmiro, Esmirna, איזמיר, IZM, Smirne, イズミル, იზმირი, Izmiras, Izmira, TRIZM, 伊兹密尔

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