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Ruanaich

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    • Day 123

      Oban to Mull to Iona and back

      August 22, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

      An early morning rise today to get the ferry to Craignure on Mull, and on to Iona by further bus then ferry. I could hardly see out of the hostel dining room window for the early morning mist at 5.30 a.m. but proceeded to ready for the day.

      A baked potato and half a protein vegan meal, coffee and salty porridge, for breakfast, I was well equipped to see the morning out before reaching Iona. Tramping boots, poncho pulled on and I was eager to go. The journey was to take around three hours.

      And what a journey, the mist wrapped around us as we sailed into the middle of the sea journey to Mull when the rain poured down sending most people back inside. As I sat in that rain watching the drama unfold again, it appeared that we came out of a wall of shrouded mist toward Mull. We seemed invisible for a time, as we became engulfed in the mist. I was compelled to sit out here alone, could not bring myself to sit inside when all of the dramatic weather was right in front of us. Clouds gathering and dissipating, mist rolling as the sun tried to penetrate through giving an awesome light and dark hue.

      From nowhere, it seemed, my voice awoke, without conscious awareness, I was singing "Po Kare kare ana" very quietly to myself.. yes, not a Scottish song about sailing to the islands, but a Maori waiata! Nostalgia for old times, mum, NZ, my big glorious family there perhaps awaiting a return. It was a wonderful moment as I realised this pilgrimage was about re stepping some of past journeys, about mums journey as a young woman to these shores and her hopes and dreams for her future unravelling.

      The drive to Fionnphort ferry from Mull took about an hour and a half and what an amazing bus ride through hills and glens, waterfalls and burns cascading down the munroes and hills, Highland cattle barred our way for a bit, the driver telling us we are not allowed to keep any horns at them, just having to wait til they decide to move.

      Then we were to navigate a narrow bridge and since this was only the drives second time driving the route he was very nervous and apologised to anyone who was afraid of narrow bridges. He did really well letting out a huge sigh and laugh of relief after a successful navigation over...

      Another ride in a wee ferry which tossed and turned over the water between Fionnphort and Iona. It was only a ten minute journey, over, all too soon. The Abbey itself is still there and as I wandered reflectively through those cloisters and chapels I lit a few candles praying for healing for friends and family. The ruins of a mediaeval nunnery cemented my thoughts and information gleaned that indicates this was the life for many young women who had no wish to marry and be left in peace to follow their own passions within the convent.

      The rain was unrelenting and I sheltered for a while having lovely lentil 🍲 soup with a roll and cuppa for lunch, browsing a few of the stores offering island crafts for sale.

      The stunning sandy beach at Fionnphort took my fancy as I waited for the bus back to Mull and Oban . Another wonderful day to be grateful for.
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    • Day 10

      Nach Iona, dann nach Tobermory zurück

      June 10, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Gefahrene Strecke: 102 km (ohne Fahrt auf die Insel Iona)

      Von der Uisken Beach sind wir heute morgen nur ein paar km nach Fionnphort gefahren, von wo die Fähre nach Iona geht. Iona ist eine kleine Insel vor Mull und ist für Nicht-Einheimische mit dem Auto nicht erreichbar. Der Balù blieb also am Fährenablegeplatz stehen.
      Also fuhren wir um 10.00 Uhr mit der Fähre Die Insel Iona ist gerade mal 5 km lang und 1,5 km breit und hat ca. 80 Einwohner*innen. Sie gilt als Wiege des schottischen Christentums.
      Da die Überfahrt keine 20 Minuten dauert, ist sie Insel touristisch sehr begehrt. Am Pier des Ortes Baile Mòr, an dem die Personenfähre anlegt, gibt es eine Bar, ein Restaurant, ein Postamt und einen Souvenirladen.
      Nach einem Cappuccino mit irgendeinem süßen Teil, ziehen wir los, um die Insel zu erkunden. Vorher aber sehen wir uns nochmals die Abfahrzeiten der Fähre an. Und -oh Schreck-, die Fähre geht zwar alle halben Stunden, macht allerdings von 12.30 bis 16.15 Mittagspause.
      Da müssen wir uns jetzt leider wirklich beeilen, denn mit der Fähre um 16.15 schaffen wir unseren Dinnertermin in Tobermory nicht. Also schnell zum Kloster, vorbei am Nunnery, der Ruine eines Nonnenklosters, weiter zum Iona Abbey, die wir aber nur von außen fotografieren. Schade, dass wir so wenig Zeit haben, die Insel wäre einen Tagesbesuch wirklich wert, auch weil es einen Wanderweg rund um die Insel gibt.

      Wir erreichen also pünktlich die Fähre zurück nach Fionnphort. Von dort sind es noch ca. 90 km nach Tobermory, zum größten Teil auf Single Track Roads.

      In Tobermory gibt es im Verwaltungsgebäude eine öffentlich zugängliche Dusche, wo man für £2 7 Minuten kann duschen kann. Haben wir gemacht.
      Dann wieder auf unseren Übernachtungsplatz von vor 2 Tagen und ab ins Restaurant Mishdish. Haben super und teuer gespeist und außerdem ein italienisches Paar kennengelernt, die beide an der Uni in Glasgow arbeiten und die uns einige interessante Hintergrundinformationen zum Thema Brexit geben konnten.
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    • Day 40

      Iona

      September 14, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

      Iona is a small island in the Inner Hebrides, off the Ross of Mull on the western coast of Scotland. It is mainly known for Iona Abbey, though there are other buildings on the island. Iona Abbey was a centre of Gaelic monasticism for three centuries and is today known for its relative tranquility and natural environment. It is a tourist destination and a place for spiritual retreats. Its modern Scottish Gaelic name means "Iona of (Saint) Columba" (formerly anglicised as "Icolmkill").Read more

    • Day 43

      Iona

      June 23, 2019 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Dies ist kein Abstecher in die Karibik. Iona ist eine kleine Insel vor West Schottland mit einer uralten Abtei.

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