Hamilton County

Two inexperienced backpackers stepped into the Adirondack wilderness on Monday. Two nights later, they reemerged. This is their story:

On Monday at 12:30pm we arrived at the parking area 1.4 miles from the trailhead to the French Louie Loop. We unloaded our packs, chugged our Nalgenes and said goodbye to civilized life. It was time to backpack!

The internet had informed us that the road to the trailhead was washed out and not drivable, so we walked up the hilly gravel road, admiring its perfectly smooth surface while adjusting and readjusting our various backpack straps. Finally, we reached the trailhead.

Nick signed our traveling party into the trail logbook and off we went. Two steps into our journey we crossed paths with an older hikerman who informed us that the return trail on the loop, which we would be hiking on Wednesday, was so flooded that it was impassible. “The mud is knee high. I’ve hiked this trail many times and I’ve never seen it this bad,” he said. We’ll hope it’s dry by Wednesday,” said Nick. “Optimism abounds,” he replied. We continued up the trail.

Our day’s itinerary was to hike the first 6 mile of the French Louis Loop to Cedar Lake. The Loop is actually several different trails that cross one another, forming a 22.5 mile loop deep in the West Canada Lake Wilderness - one of the most remote parts of the Adirondacks. It’s possible to see moose, bears, martens, owls and other wildlife while hiking this loop - although we saw none of these.

After a mile or two it became clear how muddy the trail was. Our shoes were quickly soaked despite our attempts to bushwhack around wet sections of the trail. Mud aside, the trail was still passable and enjoyable to hike. We crossed streams, and walked along wooden planks, logs and bridges laid by trail crews. Every now and then the trail would wind out of the woods and cross through wetlands and along ponds under open skies.

We passed quite a few teenage groups led by backpacking guides - they were all very sweet, clumsy and slow moving, with the guides seeming a little tired but patient.

After 6 miles of clomping we finally made it Cedar Lake. Now it was time to find a campsite! The Adirondacks are known for their publicly-accessible and well-maintained lean-tos, which are large wooden shelters built along trails. They’re available on a first-come first-serve basis. Unfortunately, the two-lean tos we hoped to stay in were already claimed by groups of youngsters. But we found a great little tent site along Cedar Lake and set up camp.

We had just finished eating dinner when two backpackers looking to be in their 60’s and a small dog walked up to our camp site. “Fuck!” said the taller one, disappointed to see we were already camped out. “Is it OK if we stay here too?” The dog belonging to the shorter one growled at us.

“Yes, no problem!” We said. They were relieved, and apparently exhausted from walking to and from various lean-to’s, finding them all filled already. And from carrying enormous 35 pound packs, which were laden with soup, pots and pans, boxes of chocolate, whiskey, croutons, Parmesan cheese and other comforts - such as Fred’s matching pinstriped pajama pants and shirt - that we had not brought on our trip.

Fred and Henry were nice, a little bumbling, and very talkative. We were a little sad to give up our planned night of wilderness solitude, but still had a nice time talking to Fred and Henry, before hanging up our bear bag and going to bed early. We had big plans for the morning: hike 7 miles deeper into the wilderness, and claim our most desired lean-to “West Lake Lean-To #1.” We fell asleep to loon calls and the sound of rustling sleeping pads.Read more