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Our Lap of Oz - Part 1
  • Wandering Ozzies
  • Wandering Ozzies

Our Lap of Oz - Part 1

We’ve sold everything and are hitting the road for an extended length of time travelling Australia. Part 1 takes us from Brisbane to Melbourne to board the Spirit of Tasmania. Covid restrictions mean we take the long way around. Weiterlesen
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    Kata Tjuta - Curtin Springs

    6. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Still in Curtin Springs the next day. We were running ahead of schedule so decided to revisit Kata Tjuta (previously The Olgas). A bit apprehensive though as we recall the way the wind howls through the valleys there. They don't call one of the spots The Valley of the Winds for nothing and the wind had hounded us for the last few days. Another bright clear day so we headed off. The NT authorities have done a great job around these attractions in providing parking areas and viewing spots that are safe to stop at. About 10kms out from Kata Tjuta there was a viewing platform with a sweeping view of the whole area. It really is immense and covers a larger area than Uluru overall.
    First stop was The Valley of the Winds walk which can be done in stages. We headed off to the first lookout which was a walk of around 2.5km return. It was here that we were taken with the beautiful flowers that were all around. Driving down the highway you can't really see much of them but once on the tracks they are literally all around. The walk was a bit deceptive as it was approaching the rocks from the non-windy side. As soon as we hit the open valley we were almost blown away so the extended walk around the area was ruled out.
    We then headed over to the Walpa Gorge track and spent the next hour or so exploring that area. It was quite protected from the wind so was much more pleasant. It is all so civilised now compared to our last visit. There are now a number of small bridges over some of the gullies which makes it easier for us oldies to walk right to the end of the track. The rock here is quite different to Uluru in that it is a massive conglomerate of smaller rocks that are fused together with what was once molten lava. The individual rocks are really easy to discern in the huge boulders that have broken away. It is hard to imagine the enormous upheaval that must have occurred to create this place. Another tiring day as we headed back to Curtin Springs.    Weiterlesen

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    NT / SA Border

    7. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Time to leave Curtin Springs and head south. The Stuart Highway south is another piece of road we have never driven before. While the road is good the scenery is a bit sparse. We made good time to Erldunda and then south to the NT/SA Border Rest Stop. We were still ahead of when we had applied for our SA border pass so we stopped for the night. The official rest stop on the western side of the highway was bitumen surface with toilets and tables but the parking bays were way too close for our liking. On the eastern side of the highway was an unofficial open area where we decided to stop. Nothing special, just more red dirt.
    The next morning we awoke to a minor catastrophe with a leaking toilet. The problem seemed to be where the sprocket attached to the doodad and made the flappy thing not seal correctly. Sorry if the technical description is a bit much. Anyway, now seems to be fixed after much cleaning and drying. While we were doing this we were treated to what is apparently called a murmuration of budgies. There were thousands of them all swooping and screeching. It was quite some sight and one we won't forget for some time. We even had one little guy/girl who wanted to come along with us when we left (and bring a friend)+3.
    Sausages, jacket potatoes and vegies cooked on the fire for dinner tonight. Whoever decided that putting cheese in sausages should be forever banished from the kitchen. So nice that the wind has finally died down a little.    Weiterlesen

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    Owen's Rest

    8. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Next planned stop was Coober Pedy but it was too far to drive in just one day so we camped at Owen's Rest bush camp. We have no idea who Owen is or why he needed to rest but it was ok for the night. The wind had finally died down a bit and the flies weren't too bad so we had a chance to sit and cook outside on a fire. When we heard a rumble that sounded different to the normal road train we realised we were camped between the Stuart Highway and the Ghan train lines. It must have been a goods train but we didn't see it. There were two more trains during the night but nothing too disturbing. Not sure if one of them was the Ghan or not.Weiterlesen

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    Coober Pedy

    9. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Further south to Coober Pedy today and the landscape changes constantly. From low ranges to flat barren country. You can really see why the land was determined to be lifeless when the British decided to test their nuclear weapons. There doesn't seem to be much out here.
    The approach to Coober Pedy starts about 30kms our where the first of the diggings appear. We have been to Lightning Ridge and White Cliffs but this is on a whole different level. There is massive excavation and absolutely no attempt at restitution. The mullock heaps are just left to build up and dominate the landscape. Even 20kms out from the town it seemed like every piece of dirt had been dug up and turned over at some stage. The places where opal had been found were fairly easy to identify because the heavy machinery had been brought in. It is eye opening and hard to capture in a photo.
    The town itself is typical of the outback mining towns, that is, it is full of rubbish. No-one ever discards anything in any sort of responsible way. It is just left to decay wherever it stopped.
    We checked in to the Big 4 on the outskirts of town after filling up at the town water point. Water is obviously precious out here.
    We visited the underground Catholic Church and the underground Serbian Church. Have to say the Serbs do it really well. Very impressive. Headed out to the Breakaways about 30kms north of town for a spectacular sunset. It is easy to see why it is called the painted desert. Geoff & Robyn – the trip to see the sunset was as per usual :)    Weiterlesen

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    Coober Pedy

    10. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    A lazy start to the day. Washing done even though water is tight. The park has water for sale at 20c for 30L or so. The wind dries the washing in no time. We headed off to see the underground Catacomb Church (I kept calling it the Cathedral) which was a bit of a letdown.
    Then off to the Old Timers Opal Mine for a visit. This was really interesting and an education in how the old miners worked. An easy way to spend a couple of hours. After that a visit to the Old Gaol and the Original Cemetery completed our sight seeing in the town. There seemed to be a disproportionate number of young children in the cemetery. Very sad.
    Finished the day with a pizza from the in-house restaurant.    Weiterlesen

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    Lake Hart

    11. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Continuing south from Coober Pedy we stayed on the Stuart Highway. It is hard to describe some of these areas or to capture them in a photo. In some places it seemed as if you could see from horizon to horizon and not a tree to be seen. This passes through a lot of the Woomera Missile Testing Area and there are Defence Department signs up along the way about leaving the highway. There were a lot of communication towers and posts around and a couple of mysterious looking weather station type structures. I'm sure they are tracking UFOs.
    We arrived early afternoon at Lake Hart Rest Area which continued the theme of dirt (and wind) camps. Lake Hart is one of the smaller salt lakes in this area. To look at it from any distance you could swear it was full of water, but when you get close you realise it is salt. We walked out a fair distance and scratched our name in the surface like everyone else. It doesn't take much scratching to get down to a sticky brown/black mud. I would hate to get caught in it.
    Between the camp area and the lake was the Ghan Railway line. We hoped for a glimpse but only got a couple of goods trains.    Weiterlesen

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    Port Augusta

    12. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Continuing south (getting boring isn't it) we passed some major salt lakes and very flat country until we arrived in Port Augusta. We parked the van at an area attached to a local sporting club. They have room for about 30 vans/motorhomes and it is packed. At $8/night it is easy to see why. No power but there is water available.
    After unhooking we went back into town and explored a little. A visit to the Wadlata Outback Centre for information but we were too late to do the tour of the centre. Maybe tomorrow. It's so nice to be back on the coast and to see some water.    Weiterlesen

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    Port Augusta / Wyhalla

    13. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We visited the Australia Arid Lands Botanic Garden in the morning. This is a major garden and really worth a visit. So many native Australian plants that we probably wouldn't see anywhere else. Many of the trees and bushes were in flower and looked spectacular. We were lucky enough to spot a Shingleback Lizard wandering across our path. Faye was disappointed however that we didn't see one Sturt's Desert Pea even though it is the South Australian State Flower.
    After the gardens we headed down to Whyalla for a look around. What a contrast this town is. Major steel industry and coastal town all rolled into one. The buildings reminded us of Adelaide and Hobart with the stone construction. Heaps to see here and we will probably be back this way later in the trip.    Weiterlesen

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    Flinders Ranges

    14. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We headed northeast from Port Augusta on the Explorer's Way towards the Flinders Ranges. First stop was the interesting little town of Quorn. A lot of the original buildings from the boom days have been preserved here and the town is obviously proud of it's heritage. This town was on the original Ghan train line that ran from Adelaide and much of the train history is still here. Many stone buildings reminded us of Adelaide or Hobart in their construction.
    We continued on through small towns Willochra, Wilson and Hawker before taking the turn off into the main ranges area. You can see the ranges from Port Augusta and they become more dramatic the closer you get. A little way along we came across the ruins of an original sheep station Kanyacka Station. All the buildings had been constructed from stone and were quite substantial, even though all of the roof structure is gone. The main house, servant's house, overseer's house, workmen's huts and stables would have been quite the little township of the time. It was hard to walk through the rooms without wondering about the people who lived and prospered there before drought brought it all to a crashing halt. Further on we stopped at Rawnsley Park Station which is still a working sheep station but is now also a major tourist destination. Full on caravan park, cabins, eco-cabins (whatever they are), restaurant etc. Many spots in the park have views of Wilpena Pound and other parts of the ranges. Not our spot though :(
    A nice evening around the campfire with neighbours from Adelaide and Port Lincoln. Camped right next to us were two beautiful Golden Retrievers, Justin and Olivia. They reminded us so much of Jake & Caddie. Can't remember their owner's names :)    Weiterlesen

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    Flinders Ranges

    15. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    A day to explore so we decided on one of the longer walks that branch out from the station. We set off to Clem Corner which was a moderate graded walk of around 5km. The walking was made a little more difficult because of the rocky, uneven trail and we had decided to break in our new boots. Band-aids were required by about half way around. The views from Clem Corner lookout were spectacular and the walk back along a narrow ridge track was very interesting. Not sure why but my camera's photos were all coming out washed out so our memories will have to suffice. It's amazing how many wildflowers manage to survive and thrive in such harsh rocky terrain.
    After lunch we decided to take the scenic drive north through the ranges. We visited Wilpena Pound Resort and several of the lookouts that could be driven to. Spectacular views. At the end of the bitumen was the quirky little town of Blinmen. Faye commented that it looked like something from the wild west, I think because there were no kerbs or gutters. From here we could either head back to Rawnsley Park on the same bitumen road or head west on the dirt through Parachilna Gorge to the small town of Parachilna. We had heard so much about the gorge we took that option even though it was getting on in the day. The drive through the gorge was really interesting and we were surprised to see people camping and groups of caravans spread throughout. There aren't any structured campsites but the ones that were there looked to be well used. The gorge area wouldn't see too much sunlight throughout the day so I'm sure it would get really chilly at night. Campfires would be a must. Something we hadn't struck before was the ban on collecting firewood from the roadside. There were multiple signs warning against it and not just in the National Park. Our neighbours confirmed it is a state wide thing in SA. The firewood at Rawnsley Park Station was selling for $23 a bag and I had none left from our travels so no more fires for us while camped there.
    About 100km of dirt road that was not really in bad condition to get back to camp. We were a little worried by the sharpness of the rocks though and were proven to be right when we discovered a rear tyre with a slow leak the next day    Weiterlesen

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    Flinders Ranges

    16. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Catch up with cleaning and washing this morning as most of our neighbours departed. Thursday seemed to be a major moving day here. We headed off on another, shorter, walk to the top of a local mesa with great views to Wilpena Pound. We also remembered to take our fly nets on this walk and it made the whole experience much more enjoyable. A lazy afternoon was spent washing the car at the donation only car-wash on site. It really did need it, as does the van, but we couldn't drag that down to the car-wash bay. Confirmed the slow leak in the tyre and also realised we are missing one of the tyre pressure monitoring sensors and also a shackle pin. Lesson learnt about driving on dirt/gravel roads. Things vibrate and if even a little loose to start with, they will disappear in a cloud of dust. I had a spare shackle pin but I'm not sure if the sensor can be replaced as they come in a set that are programmed to report pressure in a particular order. Will have to call Safety Dave to find out.Weiterlesen

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    Orroroo

    17. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Leaving the Flinders Ranges we stopped in Hawker to get the tyre fixed. We found out it was probably not a rock but more likely a nail or bolt. The hole was perfectly round. Busiest place in Hawker is the tyre repair shop. We waited around 3 hours then headed south to a little town called Orroroo on the banks of their historic reservoir. The area has recently been done up to include a number of RV / caravan bays. No water or facilities but a nice place to stop. if you can find a spot out of the wind.Weiterlesen

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    Orroroo

    18. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Another day in Orroroo we decided to walk the Pekina Creek Trail downstream from the old reservoir. This followed the creek down into the town and then back up the other side. A couple of highlights included a place called The Rock Poem where a young lad had carved two poems into a rock back in 1896 and 1901 before he left to find his fortune in the USA and then some aboriginal carving dated back around 7000 years, amazing. We extended the walk out the other side of town to see the Giant Gum tree and it was well worth the hike. This thing is huge. A bonus on the walk back was coming across a number of Shingleback Lizards (or Sleepy Lizards) on the track.
    A stroll back through town was typical of these small country towns with a lot of empty shopfronts and businesses closing down. They really try hard to attract the tourists but it is obviously a hard road.    Weiterlesen

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    Blyth

    19. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Leaving Orroroo we headed further south and almost immediately noticed a change in the landscape. GREEN! It's a pity it didn't come with a change in weather. COLD and WINDY! It was however a pleasant change from the last 6 weeks of red dirt. We are not complaining about the dirt as we knew what to expect and it has been fabulous camping out in some of those spots, but it does get a bit wearing.
    A sign on the side of the road alerted me to a thing called Goyder's Line so I did some research and sure enough, there is an identifiable line where the country changes from grazing north of the line to cropping in the south. George Goyder identified the line in 1865 and it still holds true.
    As we drove further south through Jamestown and Spalding it gradually became more lush. Most of the countryside is under cultivation. It made me wonder how long it took and how much effort was required to clear so much land.
    It was hard to identify a lot of the crops but the canola really stood out. The acres and acres of bright yellow pasture was striking. Most of the other crops, which we think were mainly peas, were a low growing deep green. The other main difference was the number of sheep. They were all in really lush paddocks.
    We camped at Blyth Sportsground which is about 10 minutes west of Clare. This is a sports facility with lots of spare room so they welcome self contained vans and motorhomes. In the 2 days we were here there was only one other van for one night.    Weiterlesen

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    Burra

    20. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Another cold and windy day greeted us in the morning. We found a short walking track called the Lomandra Track that started from just near the camp so off we went. The track followed the edge of the local golf club and had been developed along with the local primary school. The kids had preserved an area of original natural grassland and continue to care for it. They have it fenced off and try to maintain it free of the many weeds that come along with extensive clearing and cropping. It was a great effort. We were glad to have brought our waterproof jackets on the walk, the weather wasn't looking any better.
    On the advice of a friend we headed over towards the small town of Burra for a look. This little place is heritage listed, the whole town, and was well worth the drive. On the way we passed through Farrell Flat and spied our first painted silo. Really well done. The town itself seemed pretty much deserted except for the pub which apparently gets rave reviews from travellers who stop for an overnighter.
    Burra was really interesting with it's multitude of old stone buildings and relics of the mining years. It was originally settled because copper was found and mined in the mid-late 1800s. They have what is called the Burra Heritage Passport key that you can buy to unlock some of the heritage buildings around the area. We didn't think we had the time to make it worth while and the weather was getting us down. The wind had increased and it had turned icy. We had a look around the town but then succumbed and took refuge in the car for the drive back to Blyth. Burra really reminded us of some of the English towns we had wandered through apart from the width of the streets.
    Topped up our groceries in Woolies at Clare on the way back. We had planned to cook outside and have a campfire but the showers started. So glad we have cooking facilities inside as well as outside.    Weiterlesen

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    Greenock, South Australia

    21. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    On the way to the Barossa Valley we passed through a few small towns one of which was Owen. They have a huge silo painting over 6 separate silos. Most impressive.
    The weather was still not being kind to us with the wind blowing and the temperature dropping. We camped at the Greenock Centenary Park which was a pleasant area around a cricket oval. While it was nice to have a green outlook for a change the wind drove us inside the van for most of the afternoon. We finally braved it for a quick walk around the small historic town before bunkering down for the night.Weiterlesen

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    Greenock

    22. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Following the Barossa Heritage Tourist Drive we left Greenock and headed for Nurioopta, Angaston, Tanunda and Seppeltsfield. We visited Mengler's Hill Lookout which we had been to the last time we were here in 2001 for our 25th wedding anniversary. We also tried to find the little cottage B&B that we stayed in last time but the memory was a bit hazy and the wind was too cold to wander around too much. It was lovely to revisit some of the same places.
    A must visit from Faye's bucket list was Maggie Beer's Farm Shop. Coffee and treats were on the menu as we explored the farm and the shop. Faye was excited to see the actual kitchen that was featured in The Cook and the Chef TV show that she has enjoyed for so many years. The obligatory photo opportunity was taken. Unfortunately Maggie was not there but it was special anyway.
    Back to Greenock for the night as we rugged up against the freezing winds.    Weiterlesen

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    Walker Flat

    23. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We left the cold and windy Greenock heading towards our first bush camp on the banks of the Murray River! We had heard of so many people who camped along the banks of our largest river and have long wanted to experience it for ourselves. Travelling from the Barossa west we didn't realise how high we had actually been. The rise up from the valley is fairly gradual from Angaston to Keyneton and into the South Mt Lofty Ranges. As we drove towards the small town of Sedan we started noticing some stone walls along the sides of the roads and separating the paddocks. The amount of effort required to build these walls would have been enormous. It reminded us so much of the north of England only not so green. Once you reach the edge of the ranges the drive down to the Murray Plains is breathtaking. It was so unexpected to hit the top of the rise and then have the whole of the plains laid out before you. Quite beautiful.
    At the small township of Walker Flat we setup right on the western bank of the Murray River. The camp was not too busy so we snared a decent spot with a lovely view of the river and some of the spectacular cliffs on the eastern side. It was only an hour or so after setup we had the luck to see the magnificent Murray Princess river steamboat sailing past the camp. Just sorry we missed recording the siren tune she played as she sailed past. Our pleasure in the camp did wane though when the ferals moved in next door. I guess that's what can sometimes happen at these bush camps    Weiterlesen

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    Walker Flat

    24. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    In the morning we enjoyed the sight of a number of houseboats cruising up and down the river. Some of them are huge. As we headed out for a walk along the riverbank we came across a number of them moored up just at the end of the camp ground. It turned out to be a number of members of a houseboat club similar to camping clubs. Most of them were from the Adelaide area and cruise just for the fun of it.
    We spent the rest of the day exploring Walker Flat and the surrounding area. The township itself is really only a general store and a ferry crossing across the river. We walked along the western bank and checked out all the houses/shacks on the riverfront. Apparently they were all originally fishing shacks that were essentially squatters, it was all crown land. In 1989 the government decided they should all be removed but after a long protracted battle with the squatters it was decided the Walker Flat shacks should be converted to freehold if the people improved the blocks with septic systems and a few other restrictions. Some of the “shacks” now are quite palatial. The views across the river are spectacular to the river cliffs on the eastern side.
    I also stumbled across a news article detailing one of the biggest drug busts in SA history in Walker Flat where a drug laboratory was found. A quote from ABC News at the time..
    “The raid at Walker Flat also uncovered about 48 kilograms of MDMA powder and more than 190,000 bagged MDMA pills with an estimated street value of $48 million. Firearms seized included eight semi-automatic and bolt-action rifles, along with ammunition.”
    Who would have thought? We took the free cross-river ferry to the eastern side to explore a little. The cliffs that enclose the river around the area are quite high and we really didn't expect to see anything like them. The lookouts were great, if only the wind wasn't trying to blow us over the edge. A lovely campfire that evening as the winds died down a little.    Weiterlesen

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    Murray Bridge

    25. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The morning started with the local CFS holding a training session in the carpark near our camp. They really put a lot of effort into training the volunteers and in this case it was a group of teenagers who were at the local youth camp. Showing them how to fill the tanker from the river, direct the water stream from the back of the truck and handle all the gear. It was very professional and it looked like the kids enjoyed it as well.
    It didn't take the feral who was camped next to us long to move into our spot as soon as we left. Goodness knows how long he planned on staying there.
    The drive to Murray Bridge went through Mannum and then pretty much followed the river. Mannum looked really interesting so we determined to come back to explore another day. Murray Bridge was a much larger town than we expected. We found our way through and down to the caravan park we had booked for a few days. It was a lovely park attached to a houseboat marina and well grassed. It was catch up with washing day so we didn't get out much for the rest of the day.    Weiterlesen

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    Murray Bridge

    26. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Another morning of loads of washing and cleaning the van. Faye focused on the interior and much of the exterior was washed down. The park was happy to allow us to use a bucket and sponge just no washing the exterior with a hose. No idea why. I wasn't happy with the state of the roof but not much I could do about it. Once we had done as much as we could we headed off to catch up with some shopping and odds and ends. We hadn't seen a Bunnings for some time. Also had the chance to explore the riverbank parkland which was quite lovely and we happened to stumble over the only known location of a "real" Bunyip. Amazing!Weiterlesen

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    Murray Bridge

    27. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Another day in Murray Bridge as we slowed down a little after travelling so far. The packing/travelling/unpacking on most days gets a little tiring for both of us. I took the car to a local car wash and promptly managed to snap the antenna of the UHF radio. My own stupid fault. I've managed to repair it enough for it to still work, so all is not lost. It has been invaluable on the highways through the centre of the country.
    We had seen a promising walk on a levee bank along the banks of the river the day before so we went for a brisk stroll in the afternoon. The walk took us under the original "Murray Bridge" which was the first bridge built that spanned the Murray River. Started in 1873 and completed in 1879 it is still in use today. I'm not sure what part the dog in the picture played in the construction of the bridge.    Weiterlesen

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    Tintinara

    28. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After several changes to our Spirit of Tasmania booking, not of our doing but from the Spirit company, we had finally locked in (fingers crossed) a night sailing on Saturday 2nd October. This gave us a few days to get from Murray Bridge to our planned final SA stop at Bordertown. Being in no hurry we decided to take the van to the local car wash because they had some bays with raised platforms that would allow me to clean the roof and solar panels properly. It took the best part of an hour but now we know it should be cleanish when we get to Tassie. A short drive down the Dukes Highway we stopped in the little town of Tintinara on the banks of Lake Indawarra. Another great little camp area that was the initiative of the local community. We again were lucky enough to find a local trail through untouched bushland that had been preserved by the town. We were struck by the difference of the landscape looking in different directions from the track. I have put some notes on the pictures to explain. Something we have also realised is that most of these small towns are not only on the highway but also on the main train line from Melbourne to Adelaide. A lot of stuff gets moved along this line and it doesn't much stop at night.Weiterlesen

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    Bordertown Recreation Lake

    29. September 2021 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our staging point! After our original plan to drive through NSW & Vic to get to Tasmania was scuttled by "you know what" we had decided to take the long way around. We had looked forward to the Tassie trip for so long. So after 7800kms we got here to Bordertown. Checking every 5 minutes that the rules haven't changed and we can still drive through Victoria to board the Spirit of Tasmania without quarantine penalties in Tasmania. We heard of a couple of cases of truckies in SA who had tested positive. Every news bulletin was nerve wracking. And it wasn't just us. The camp was mainly populated with Taswegians wanting to get home. The camp itself was a nice parkland type area around a lake that had been dug when they needed fill for the nearby rail overpass. They've done a really good job of prettying up a hole in the ground. The walk around the lake has some local steel artwork as well.Weiterlesen

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