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The World on Two Wheels
The World on Two Wheels

The World on Two Wheels

After discovering the joys of cycling in 2002 I took a group of fellow riders to China in 2006. Since then we have gone on to complete 54 other overseas cycling and trekking adventures which have taken us all over the planet. Read more🇦🇺Melbourne
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  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Santorini - Day 3

    October 8, 2012 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    In around 1600 BC a massive volcanic explosion created the massive caldera that is the main feature of modern Santorini. The remains of the volcano are still active and can be visited via a short cruise from Santorini.

    I decided to risk being blown to smithereens by travelling out to see the volcano at close quarters. It is still a smelly and quite active geological location, but the cruise did give me a chance to view Santorini from a different perspective.

    Fortunately it did not stage an eruption was I was there.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Ripped Off in Santorini

    October 6, 2012 in Greece ⋅ 25 °C

    On my first full day on Santorini, I headed out after breakfast to do some serious walking. We were only a modest distance from the main town on the island, so that is where I headed first.

    Looking at to the caldera, I could see that there were already two huge passenger ships moored there. The daily arrival of these ships was to be a feature of each day on the island. They would arrive early in the morning, then they would transfer thousands of tourists to the island to flood the cafes and tourist shops.

    Once they were exhausted, they we be ferried back to their waiting boats, presumably to have a sleep before dinner. Late in the afternoon, the ships would weigh anchor, and sail to their next port of call. Each day the process repeated. I watched in amazement at the endless line of passengers shuffling off their launches, and wondered how anyone could possibly enjoy this. It certainly wasn't what travel should be all about.

    The pier sits at the base of a steep cliff. Almost everyone takes the cable car up to the town, but a few choose to take a donkey ride instead (presumably so that they can get a few more selfies along the way). Neither option appealed to me, so I did it the hard way - I walked the steep zig zag path down to the water, and then walked back up again.

    I spent some time watching the sad spectacle of the tourists buying bag fulls of tacky souvenirs and overpriced jewelry from the line of shops then explored the walkway along the top of the cliffs.

    By mid afternoon, I was hot, tired and thirsty. While walking I noticed a cliffop cafe, with the name Katrin Gallery. It certainly had a spectacular view down over the caldera and out to the sea. It looked like a likely spot to enjoy a cold drink. It turned out to be a fatal mistake.

    After taking my seat, the pushy waiter tried to talk me into buying a "cactus juice". He explained that it was the specialty of the house, and that I really HAD to have a glass. I replied, that I was not interested in his cactus juice. I really just wanted something simple, like a nice cold milk shake. How hard could that be ?

    He was not impressed, and made it clearly evident that he wanted to boost the cafe's turnover with some on selling. A few minutes later, the milk shake arrived. It was tiny and pretty ordinary, but at least I could sit and enjoy the view while I drank slowly and cooled off a little.

    It was only when the waiter brought the bill that I could see that I had been well and truly fleeced. I had never expected to be charged 25 Euro for a tiny milkshake. I suppose I should have been relieved that I did not order the juice. Goodness only knows how much that would have cost.

    I stormed up to the waiter and disputed the exorbitant charge. No wonder there were no prices on the menu. While I was there I also heard a couple of other customers arguing over the price they had been fleeced for their terrible meal. It was evident that this establishment was one of "those" places that should be avoided at all costs.

    Later in the day I look up trip advisor to see if anyone had had the same bad experience at the Katrin Gallery. It turned out that hundreds of one-star reviews showed that this cafe is just a front for outright theft. It makes a huge amount of money by blatantly overcharging unsuspecting tourists as they climb from the passenger ships. I should have been grateful that I only lost 25 Euro, others had been charged hundreds of Euros for a simple fish dinner for two. I guess I will put it down to being a little older and wiser after the experience. It did serve to give me a bad impression of Santorini, as I could not understand how the authorities could allow this sort of price gouging to give the place a bad name.

    Fortunately, I discovered that other cafes on the island were mostly honest, and provided good meals at a modest charge.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Santorini

    October 5, 2012 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    In the morning we went to the Athens Airport to catch the plane for a short flight to the Greek Island of Santorini. We were booked into the Anemopolis Villa, and that would be our home for the next four nights.

    After arriving at the small Santorini Airport, we were met by the owner of our hotel with his 10 seater minivan. While he drove us the short distance back to our hotel, he ran an ongoing personal commentary about the effects of the GFC and how bad things were in Greece.

    During the conversation, it emerged that he had quite extensive property holdings, including a house in Athens, vineyards and another hotel. He complained bitterly that his taxes had been increased by the Greek Government. Just out of curiosity (and because I am sometimes a bit of a stirrer), I asked him how much tax he actually paid. The answer was around $4,000 a year.

    I was astounded at his answer and looked him in the face. "Don't you realise that you are a wealthy man ?", I said. "In any other country you would be paying many times that amount". He did not seem convinced, but it gave me a clear indication of why things in Greece were so bad. Everyone expected the government to give them handouts and generous pensions, but no one wanted to pay any tax at all.

    After checking in to the hotel, we had some time to wander the nearby area for our first look at the island. Even at this time of the year, the sun still burnt fiercely, and it did not take long for me to get hot and thirsty. I was glad we were not there in the middle of summer.

    Every building in Santorini seems to be painted white, and I gather they are repainted virtually every year. I guess it makes it pretty easy when you need to go to the hardware store to buy some house paint. The colour card would only need a single square - white.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Back to Athens

    October 4, 2012 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today we had the opportunity to visit Meteora, these magical Monasteries perched upon the huge rock formations also hold exquisite specimens of Byzantine art.

    After the tour of Meteora we returned to Athens in the evening via Trikala, Lamia and Thermopylos (Leonida`s monument).Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Kalambaka

    October 3, 2012 in Greece

    We had a free morning in Delphi, before driving through the Central Greece cities of Lamia and Trikala to Kalambaka, a small town situated at the foot of Meteora, a group of gigantic rock towers with age-old monasteries nestled on top. These were made famous in the James Bond movie "For Your Eyes Only".Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Meteora and Delphi

    October 2, 2012 in Greece

    This morning we were picked up from our hotel to drive to Meteora. We departed Athens and drove through Thebes, Levadia and Arachova arriving in Delphi, known in ancient times as the navel of the world. Later we passed by Castalia Springs and visited the archaeological site and museum of Delphi. This was where the ancients used to go to ask questions of the Oracle of Delphi. The afternoon was free to wander this small, quaint town.Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Athens Day Three

    September 30, 2012 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    My main activity today was to visit the main museums of the city. It was a fascinating experience, but the sheer number of exhibits does become a little overwhelming. In the afternoon I looked for a quiet place to sit and just watch the locals going about their business. This is always one of my favourite pastimes when I am travelling.Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Exploring Athens

    September 29, 2012 in Greece ⋅ 33 °C

    Saturday Sep 29th, 6.30 am.

    We arrived in Athens, Greece last night after completing our Turkey adventure.

    We can already see big differences between the two countries. Our hotel is modern and very well equipped. One thing we noticed everywhere in Turkey is that they don't seem to know how to tile correctly - even new hotels had rubbish tiling jobs in their bathrooms with everything smothered under huge layers of grout. The hotel here has a lovely bathroom with professional standard of finish.

    The big problem is that Athens is a city in decline. With such unemployment there are homeless people everywhere. Just outside our hotel are people sleeping on the footpath, junkies taking drugs and dealers selling drugs. It's so sad and hard to see how Greece will get itself out of the mess it is in. We saw the stadiums that were built for the Olympics - guess what? Apparently, it is now unused and falling into disrepair, even though it was one of the reasons that sent Greece to the brink of financial disaster. I don't think any city that has hosted the Olympics has ever had a permanent benefit from it.

     In Turkey the cities were all clean and we never saw any drug taking or homeless people. I would not feel safe out at night in Athens.

     Today we will do some more exploration of the city.

    After breakfast a few of us got on to the hop on hop off bus, thinking it would be a good introduction to an unfamiliar city. We had only travelled for a short distance before I could hear the sound of a man shouting at the top of his voice. When I looked out the bus window, I noticed that there was a young man running around and gesticulating wildly. Even more alarming was the fact that he was ripping off all his clothes. Soon he was stark naked. I can only presume that he was having some sort of a bad drug trip. It was a rather brutal introduction to the city.

    I got off the bus near the Acropolis and spent much of the rest of the day exploring this amazing historical location. Somehow, I managed to walk the entire way back to the hotel without getting lost or mugged. Quite an achievement, I thought.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Goodbye to Turkey

    September 28, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today marked the final day of our Turkish Adventure. I can honestly say that the trip had widely exceeded our expectations. The incredible combination of history, stunning landscapes and incredibly friendly locals, make travel here really special.

    This trip has so many highlights that I could never list them all, but here are a few that really stand out - the underground cistern in Istanbul, the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia, the early morning balloon flight, the underground city of Derinkuyu, the Mediterranean coast, the impressive Roman ruins at Ephesus and of course the sacred ground at Gallipoli.

    Although our Turkish Adventure finished today, for 8 of our group, we still have another adventure coming up. This afternoon we will be flying to Athens to begin an 8 day trip around Greece. While we were in Turkey, we were repeatedly warned of how unfriendly the Greeks are. I guess we will find out if this is true.

    In order to get to the airport I ordered three taxis to pick us up from the hotel. I did not realise the the drivers must have had some sort of a bet as to which of them would get to the airport first. Over the next 30 minutes I think I had several near death experiences as our three taxis raced at high speed through the streets of Istanbul, swerving in and out of the other vehicles on the road. I cannot remember which taxi arrived first, I was just relieved when we all still alive at the end. It was a memorable finish to an exceptional trip.

    You can now continue to follow this trip by opening the 2012 Greece and Europe trip.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Arrival in Athens

    September 28, 2012 in Greece ⋅ 32 °C

    I had never been to Athens before and did not really know what to expect. I had heard both good and bad reports about the city, and tried to keep an open mind. Since I had planned and organised this part of the trip myself, I also had a degree of anxiety as to whether all the plans would come to a successful conclusion.

    We arrived from Istanbul after dark and, after clearing customs and immigration, we went outside the airport to the minibus I had ordered. I gave the driver the name of our hotel and we headed out into the unfamiliar Athens streets.

    It did not take long for us to see that Athens was not doing too well. All around were abandoned building sites, everything was covered by graffiti and the streets were full of rather dangerous looking characters.

    After driving for some time, the driver started to act nervously. He drove slowly past a darkened building and then said, "I think that is your hotel". He then added "It looks like it is no longer open". That immediately sent my stress levels through the roof. We had only just arrived in a strange city and already it looked like we were about to join the thousands of homeless people on the streets of Athens.

    He drove back and had a closer look. Although it certainly looked closed from the outside, he did see some light coming from inside. We stopped and rang the bell, To my great relief, the door did eventually open and we were able to carry out bags into the foyer.

    Once we were inside, it was actually quite clean and modern. Even better was the fact that they were expecting us. I tried to pretend that I was never in any doubt.

    Some time later we had all settled into our rooms and we met back down in the lobby to look for somewhere to eat. We went out the front door and immediately saw that drug addicts were lying in the gutters, most of the neighbourhood was in darkness and we could sense sinister eyes looking at us from the shadows.

    We were very tempted to turn straight around and head back into the safety of the hotel, but eventually we decided that we were all starving and really needed something to eat. We bunched tightly together and tried to look all around us as we went in search of a cafe.

    Fortunately we soon found a welcoming restaurant, where we enjoyed a lovely meal in the late evening. Although we had only been in the city for a few hours, somehow the walk back to the hotel did not feel as threatening as we had felt on the walk out. Some places are like that.

    Tomorrow will be a free day for us to explore the city.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Last Full Day in Istanbul

    September 27, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 24 °C

    Today we visited the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, both very close to our Group Hotel and only a 10min walk away.
    The Hagia Sophia is a former Orthodox patriarchal basilica, later a mosque, and now a museum. From the date of its dedication in 360 until 1453, it served as the cathedral of Constantinople, except between 1204 and 1261, when it was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral under the Latin Patriarch of Constantinople of the Western Crusader established Latin Empire. The building was a mosque from 29 May 1453 until 1931, when it was secularized.

    It was opened as a museum on 1 February 1935. The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque) was built between 1609 and 1616, during the rule of Ahmed I.. The design of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque is the culmination of two centuries of
    both Ottoman mosque and Byzantine church development. It incorporates some Byzantine elements of the neighbouring Hagia Sophia with traditional Islamic architecture and is considered to be the last great mosque of the classical period. The architect synthesized the ideas of his master Sinan, aiming for overwhelming size, majesty and splendour.

    We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the area of Sultanahmet.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Gallipoli and Anzac Cove

    September 26, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 22 °C

    This morning we took the ferry across to Kilitbahir and visited Gallipoli and walk through the national park housing many relics of the naval and land battles that took place in 1915 during World War One.

    Amongst other places, we visited Anzac Cove, the site of the first ANZAC landing and Lone Pine, the largest graveyard-cum-memorial to those buried unmarked or at sea. This is a very important and touching place for many Australians and we took the time to conduct our own memorial service by the beach at Anzac Cove.

    This place had special significance for Bob Andrews, whose own father had fought here in WW1. My grandfather also served here in 1915, before being injured and evacuated to Egypt. There he played a part in forming the bicycle battalion, where he served a second in command for the rest of the war.

    Afterwards we continued to Istanbul. We spent the night in the Old Part of Istanbul, known as Sultanahmet.

    Our Turkish Adventure is rapidly drawing to a close. Tomorrow we will have our final free day in Istanbul, before the group breaks up to continue their individual ways.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Canakkale and Ancient Troy

    September 25, 2012 in Turkey

    The day started with a 6 hour drive. On the way we stopped at the the ruins of ancient Troy. It is best known for being the focus of the Trojan War described in the Greek Epic Cycle and especially in the Iliad, one of the two epic poems attributed to Homer.

     In 1865, English archaeologist Frank Calvert excavated trial trenches in a field he had bought from a local farmer at Hisarlik, and in 1868 Heinrich Schliemann,
    a wealthy German businessman and archaeologist, also began excavating in the area after a chance meeting with Calvert in Canakkale. Troy was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1998.

    Afterwards we continued to Canakkale where we spent the night    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Ephesus and Selcuk

    September 24, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 23 °C

    In the morning, just after breakfast, we drove to the ancient city of Ephesus. Ephesus was an ancient Greek city, and later a major Roman city, on the west coast of Asia Minor, near present day Selcuk. It was one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League during the Classical Greek era.

    In the Roman period, it was for many years the second largest city of the Roman Empire; ranking behind Rome, the empire’s capital. Ephesus had a population of more than 250,000 in the 1st century BC, which also made it the second largest city in the world.

     Ephesus contains the largest collection of Roman ruins in the eastern Mediterranean. Only an estimated 15% has been excavated. The ruins that are visible give some idea of the city’s original splendour, and the names associated with the ruins are evocative of its former life.

    After visiting Ephesus we continued to Selcuk to our hotel.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    White Cliffs of Pamukkale

    September 23, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 23 °C

    Modern Fethiye is located on the site of the ancient city of Telmessos and was the most important city of Lycia, with a recorded history starting in the 5th century BC. Fethiye is one of Turkey’s well-known tourist centres and is especially popular during the summer.

    Today we drove to Pamukkale. The name Pamukkale means “cotton castle”, is one of the most remarkable natural sites with its cotton white plateaus,
    pale blue waters topping of the shallow pools and gently cascading down the drape-like stalagmites onto the lower levels for over 300 feet. The city contains hot springs and travertine, terraces of carbonate minerals left by the flowing water.
    All agreed that this location was one of the most striking and unexpected highlights of the entire trip.

    We spent the night in Pamukkale    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Fethiye and Xanthos

    September 22, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 19 °C

    After Breakfast we drove along the coast to the ancient City of Xanthos. The site has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988. Xanthos is mentioned by numerous ancient Greek and Roman writers.

    Strabo notes Xanthos as the largest city in Lycia. Both Herodotus and Appian described the conquest of the city by Harpagus on behalf of the Persian Empire, in approximately 540 BC. The prosperity of Lycia during the Persian occupation is demonstrated by the extensive architectural achievements in Xanthos, particularly the many tombs, culminating in the Nereid Monument.

    After visiting Xanthos we continued to the Saklikent Canyon (Hidden City).
    Saklikent Canyon is the second largest canyon in Europe. The Canyon is 300 meters deep and 18 km long, resulting from the abrasion of the rocks by flowing waters over thousands of years. As the level of water rises during winter months, visitors can enter the canyon only in the summer. 4km of the canyon are walk able after April, when most of the snow in the Taurus Mountains has melted and passed through on its way to the Mediterranean Sea.

    We spent the night in Fethiye.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Kas, Turkey

    September 21, 2012 in Turkey

    For the next few days we were following the Mediterranean Coastline back to the west of Turkey. The Kekova area was an amazing place for the coastal scenery as well as the well preserved archaeological sites due to the fact they are not easily accessible. A pleasant excursion by boat was the best way to see the ruins on the northern coast of Kekova island, some of the old houses were completely submerged due to earthquakes during the Byzantine period. By boat, we go round the island, where we could see numerous remains down to 2 meters deep, in the bluish light on the seabed.

    We then walked up to the Simena castle, which rewarded us with a 360 degree view, including numerous rock tombs. Just to cap this great day off we
    took a stroll on the Tersane Island.

    Afterwards we drove to Kas and our Hotel for the night. The hotel was located with a superb seafront view out over the Mediterranean Sea. It was a magical end to a glorious day.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Antalya

    September 20, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    This morning we left the Emli Valley and the Aladaglar Area and drove for 5 hours to Konya. In Konya we had lunch and visited the Mevlana Museum. The Mevlana museum is the mausoleum of Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Rumi, a Sufi mystic also known as Mevlana or Rumi. It was also the dervish lodge of the Mevlevi order, better known as the whirling dervishes.

    The members of the Mevlevi order had a prolific impact throughout the Ottoman Empire in classical poetry, calligraphy, visual arts and music. Afterwards we continued driving until we arrived in Antalya.

    It is uncertain when the site of the current city was first inhabited. Attalos II, king of Pergamon, was believed to have founded the city around 150 BC, naming it Attalia and selecting it as a naval base for his powerful fleet. However, excavations in 2008 in the Dogu Garaji district of Antalya have uncovered remains dating to the 3rd century BC, suggesting that the city was founded earlier than previously supposed.

    Antalya became part of the Roman Republic in 133 BC when King Attalos III of Pergamum willed his kingdom to Rome at his death. The city grew and prospered during the Ancient Roman period. The city includes sites with traces of Lycian, Pamphylian, and Hellenistic -but mainly Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman- architecture and cultures.

    We spent the Night in the Old Part of Antalya at the Kaleici next to the Harbour.

    Here is my diary entry:
    Friday 8.30 am. Arrived in Antalya on the Mediterranean Coast late last night after our climb in the Taurus Mountains. It was certainly the toughest trek I have done (harder than any I have done in Nepal and tougher than the Inca Trail in Peru).

    We had up to 10.5 hrs of walking each day with huge altitude gains on unstable and exposed slopes. For some it was a little too tough, but I was amazed at the way the group worked together to assist those who were struggling. We even had our first helicopter evacuation when one of our group got sick and could not continue. The first rescue helicopter circled overhead but could not land because of the high altitude.

     It then took a call to get the Australian Embassy involved and a huge Turkish military helicopter and a full blown military operation to lift them out.

    Because we are relatively close to the unstable border with Syria the copter was very keen to load and take off without delay. Turkish fighter jets have been regularly flying overhead. A reminder that this is a very volatile part of the world.

     Now that they are well again, I am sure they will have a great tale to tell. When we finished the trek, everyone was thrilled with what they had achieved. That is the amazing thing about these sort of trips - ordinary people can do extraordinary things. I am sure that we all with come back with a revised idea of what we can achieve.

    Now we are in the easy and relaxing part of the trip. We are relaxing on the coast and will soon head off on a cruise to explore the nearby underwater city. We will be following the Mediterranean coast all the way back to Gallipoli and Istabul over the next 8 days. Along the way we will be visiting a number of famous historical sites.

    The group is fabulous, all getting along very well and having truckloads of laughs. We will all have so many stories to tell when we return to Australia. I can't post images yet but will set up an album later.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Siyimalik Valley to Emil

    September 19, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    On our final day of the trek, after breakfast we started walking and left the Sokulupinar Camp and climbed up to the Sakartasi Pass (2.300m). From there we walked through the Eznevit Yaylasi until we reach a High Point with a beautiful panoramic view to the Siyirmalik Valley.

    At this amazingly place we took time to have a picnic lunch and to take some incredible photos of the Aladaglar Area. Afterwards we climbed down to
    the Siyirmalik Valeey and walked through its Forest until we reach the Emli Valley Camp.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Celikbuyduran Pass & a Helicopter Rescue

    September 18, 2012 in Turkey

    In the morning we discovered that Dayle had fallen very ill during the night. In fact she was so ill that there was no way she would be able to complete the demanding climb back down out of the mountains. She would have to be evacuated.

    The guide climbed a nearby hill to get satellite phone reception and requested a helicopter evacuation. While this was happening a team of mules arrived to transport our gear back down the mountain.

    After the luggage was loaded, we started our day's trek and climb up to the Celikbuyduran Pass. From the Pass we started to descent down to the Sokulupinar Camp Side.

    A short while after starting our walk we could hear the helicopter approaching. It hovered and moved from one side of the plateau to the other. We wondered what was happening. It was only later we learnt that the first helicopter could not find a safe landing location and returned to base.

    Some time later a much larger military helicopter appeared to complete the evacuation. Dayle and her husband were quickly taken on board and the helicopter quickly left the region.

    By now our team was even more diminished. After crossing the Pass, we started the perilous descent on rough, loose stones. The incline was extreme and it would have been very easy to end up slipping down the mountainside.

    We continued the descent for another 5 hours until we reached the Sokulupinar Camp. A cup of Tea was awaiting our arrival. We spent the Night at the Sokulupinar Camp. It had been another exhaustive and eventful day.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Exploring High Camp

    September 17, 2012 in Turkey

    Since we had decided not to spend today climbing (aka suffering), we had the luxury of a late start to the day. We learned over breakfast that one of our trekkers had decided that the guide did not deserve a day of rest, so they insisted that they go to the top of Emler Peak with him. The rest of us were happy to have a much quieter day and wander the region around the high camp.

    After the strain of the past two days of climbing, I don't think that many of us would have been able to front up to yet another day of such effort.

    Late in the afternoon, the guide returned with Alan Barlin, after they had both reached the summit of Emler Peak. Alan seemed rightly pleased with his achievement.

    The next two days we would climb out of the mountains and back down into civilisation.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Teke Kalesi Trek

    September 16, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 16 °C

    After an early start, our diminished group starting walking into the wilderness of the Taurus Mountains. It did not take long for us to leave any trace of green far behind. In all directions we were surrounded by a barren, rocky landscape. There was no defined trail, so had to scramble over the loose stones any way we could. At all times there was a real danger of slipping and breaking an arm or leg.

    We walked for hours, always steadily gaining altitude. It really was heavy going and it was made worse by the fact that our guide would give us no meaningful information about how much further we would have to climb.

    "How much further will we be walking ?" I asked
    "Who can say ?", was his useless reply.

    I felt like giving him a shake, but since he was the only one who knew where we were going, I did not want to aggravate him any further.

    As we kept walking, the conditions started to take their toll. One of remaining trekkers doubled over and started vomiting from exhaustion. This was not really the outcome I had wanted. I asked again "How much further till we reach camp ?" The only response I got was to point towards the towering mountain that was still several hours away. I thought he was joking, but it turned out he wasn't.

    Our group struggled on till lake in the afternoon, before we finally saw the row of tents that marked our campsite. We staggered the final few hundred metres and collapsed in a collective heap.

    Although we had planned to continue the climb the following day, because we could get no proper information about how hard the next climb would be, we made the collective decision that, instead of climbing further, we would spend the time exploring the plateau where our camp was situated. It turned out to be a wise move.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Turkish DelightsThe World on Two Wheels

    Hot Air Balloon then an Underground City

    September 15, 2012 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    What better way to see the incredible sights of Cappodocia, than from the gondola of a hot air balloon ? Although our guide did not want us to leave the ground, he eventually gave in when I demanded that he make it happen.

    We arose before dawn to join hundreds of other travellers, as they took an early morning flight over the region. It was an experience none of us will ever forget. Nothing can prepare you for the sight of hundreds of multi-coloured balloons filling the sky in all directions.

    Later in the day we visited the underground city of Derinkuyu. This was once the home to around 10,000 inhabitants. Their sprawling underground metropolis is spread out over a dozen or more levels. I did deduce that they must have been much shorter than us, as the constant bashing of my head on the low roof demonstrated.

    Unfortunately, by this time, our "guide" was in the midst of a full dummy spit (obviously still smarting from the fact that we did not heed his advice about the hot air ballooning) and refused to give us any information about the history of the place. Disappointing but true.

    Later in the day we drove to the foothills of the Taurus Mountains to begin our four day trek in the wilderness. We set off with the sun already low in the sky, but the guide would not tell us how far we would be walking. And so it went.

    On and one we walked in fading light. The pace started to take its toll on some of our participants, so much so that by the time we finally reached our campsite, about half the group decided that it was going to be just too difficult for them. It was not the way it was supposed to turn out, but there was little we could do about it.

    What followed over the next four days was some of the toughest trekking any of us had ever done. The combination of high altitude, steep and rough terrain, and extended trekking meant that, by the end of each day, we were completely stuffed.    Read more

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