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The World on Two Wheels
The World on Two Wheels

The World on Two Wheels

After discovering the joys of cycling in 2002 I took a group of fellow riders to China in 2006. Since then we have gone on to complete 54 other overseas cycling and trekking adventures which have taken us all over the planet. Read more🇦🇺Melbourne
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  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Under African SkiesThe World on Two Wheels

    Fish River Canyon

    April 6, 2012 in Namibia

    Friday April 6th – Good Friday in Namibia

    After an uneventful first night in the tents, we broke camp early and head north to the border crossing into Namibia. The border between South Africa and Namibia is delineated by the Orange River (and it is NOT orange in colour). Although I suspected that the border crossing would be hectic and crowded, in fact it was almost deserted with only a few other people quietly wandering around. We cleared South African immigration quickly and crossed the Orange River into Namibia.

    The facilities on the Namibian side were much less sophisticated with the two immigration officers watched over by a large smiling portrait of the president. Somehow, I could not help but think he looked more like a friendly Uncle Remus than the President of Namibia.

    Namibia is a huge country with a scant population of only 2 million people. This means that you can drive for long periods of time without sighting either another vehicle (or even another person). Namibia was formally known as South West Africa and was controlled as a de facto fifth province of South Africa. It was not until 1990 that it gained independence, although South Africa retained control of Walvis Bay and its important harbour facilities for a further four years.

    The most dominant geographical feature of the country is the mighty Namib Desert and this is of course what gives the country its name. Although it looks at first to be a desolate and inhospitable place, a closer examination shows that it actually teeming with a wide diversity of animal and plant life that has adapted brilliantly to living in this environment.

    Not long after crossing the border we stopped for morning tea at a quiet township with the evocative name of Bethanie. This is one of the oldest settlements in Namibia and was the site of the first missionary activity in 1814 by the Rev Heinrich Schmelen. Although Schmelen became disillusioned and left in 1822 there are still several very large churches in the town that bear testimony to the ardent fervour of the early missionary pioneers.

    I stood in the middle of the wide main street and looked in both directions. There was certainly no danger of being run down by the traffic – there wasn’t any. In fact the whole town looked like everyone had just packed up and left. Since the coffee shops of Cape Town were now fading into distant memory we were all feeling like we would sell our souls for a single cupful of caffeine. The only problem was it did not look like we would find a coffee shop in this ghost town.

    After wondering for a short distance I stopped in front of what looked like a hotel.
    The front edifice was completely uninspiring, but I decided to poke my head in the door and see if there was anyone home. I was greeted by a smiling lady who invited me to come inside out of the sun. I followed her through a couple of large dark rooms and to a beautiful open courtyard area. Equipped with may tables and chairs and decorated with collections of cacti and other plants it was a fantastic discover. It was a complete surprise that such a wonderful oasis would be hiding behind such a drab exterior. To me it is these unexpected turns of events that I call the “serendipity of travel”.

    I returned to the street and called in the rest of the group. We then spent a wonderful 30 minutes or so drinking coffee and chuckling over how unexpected it was to find such a delightful spot.

    Late that afternoon we arrived at the famous Fish River Canyon. At 100 km long and up to 27 km wide it is claimed to be the second largest canyon in the world. Its depth is quoted as 550 metres (not quite as deep as the 4000 metres of Colca Canyon in Peru). Down in the base of the canyon we could see the diminutive Fish River which had been responsible for gouging out the great hole. We walked along the rim of the canyon for a couple of kilometres before gathering to watch the ball of the sun drop below the western rim of the canyon.

    Because it was Easter and the therefore the time of the full moon, as soon as the sun disappeared in the west, the full moon rose behind us on the eastern horizon. Gazing at the huge disc of the moon I was reminded yet again of our theme “Under African Skies”.

    Our campsite for the night was the Canyon Roadhouse. This turned out to be one of the best campsites of the entire trip. The roadhouse itself had a magnificent collection of old cars, machines, signs and assorted other memorabilia. The ablutions block and toilets were first class. In the middle of the night the moon shone so bright and clear that there was no need of torches to find your way about.    Read more

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    Springbok Camping

    April 5, 2012 in South Africa ⋅ 24 °C

    Thursday 5th April – Goodbye to Cape Town

    At breakfast I looked out of the window up to Table Mountain. Although it had only been 4 days since we arrived in Cape Town, I think we had all grown very fond of that massive rock, especially after we had climbed to its summit. But as pleasant as our stay in Cape Town had been, it was now time to move on and experience the real Africa. We packed our gear and bade farewell to the hotel that had been a very comfortable home for our stay in Cape Town.

    The drive from Cape Town to Springbok was well over 500 km and took us deep into the Namaqualand Region and close to the border with Namibia. On arrival at our campsite we had our first chance to practise setting up the tents. This was made a little more difficult by the fact that we had arrived just before nightfall and had to do most of our unpacking in the dark.

    Already Cape Town and Table Mountain seemed a long way away. It had been a long day in the bus and we were all keen to get some rest. I fought to find some order in the jumble of gear that I had deposited in the tent, but one thing was certain – it was far too mild to sleep inside the sleeping bag. Propping my bag behind my head for a pillow and using the sleeping bag for a mattress it did not take long for me to drift off into a comforting sleep.    Read more

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    Cycling the Winelands

    April 4, 2012 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Wednesday 4th April – Cycling in the Winelands

    I was excited to awake to yet another fine and sunny day. Since this was to be the day when we would get on the bikes to ride through the famous Winelands region, we had been hoping for good cycling conditions. It was only when I stepped outside that I realised that the wind was blowing an absolute gale. I could only hope that our cycling route would be downwind and not against it.

    At 8.30 am we were met by a young South African who introduced himself as Kevin. He was from a company called “Day Trippers” who specialise is group adventure cycling. On the rear of his minibus was a trailer loaded with 13 mountain bikes. We drove for about an hour out of Cape Town to an area studded with prosperous looking vineyards and surrounded by imposing mountain ranges. We stopped at a very picturesque town called Franschhoek.
    The name means “French Corner” and it was easy to see why. This place really did feel like you were in France. Most of the buildings were constructed in the French provincial style and the restaurants and hotels all carried French sounding names. Originally settled in 1688 by French Huguenot refugees, this is one of the oldest towns in the entire Cape Province. Nowadays it is the sprawling vineyards that the area is most well known for.

    Kevin parked the van and started unloading the bikes. Fortunately, the howling wind had settled down somewhat to only a modest gale by this time. I selected a large bike but could not find any other helmet apart from a size SMALL. I somehow managed to squeeze my 10 gallon head into the 2 gallon helmet and tried out the bike. It felt like my cranium was jammed into a vice, but I decided to just grin and bear it. On the other hand, the bike was quite good, even if the suspension was a little softer than I am used to.

    The first leg of our ride was not long but took us through a lovely rural area with glorious mountain views all around us. After about an hour of riding we arrived at the first winery for a wine tasting. For some this was undoubtedly a highlight but for those of us who have no love of wine, I have to admit that each new wine smelt like turpentine and tasted even worse.

    Another short ride brought us to the second winery and even more servings of turpentine. After this many tasting we were deemed unfit to get back on the bikes and were driven to the third (and final) round of even more tastings. I think that by 3 o’clock even the keen drinkers in our group were getting rather sick of the wine and were becoming desperate for something to eat. It was only then that Kevin finally unveiled our “picnic lunch” and we were able to get some sustenance into our stomachs. Unfortunately, the lunch was not as generous as the wine servings, and we were left feeling a little unsatisfied.

    After the late lunch we returned to the bus for a detour through the town of Stellenbosch. This is the second oldest town in Cape Province after Cape Town itself and still has numerous classified historic buildings, most with thatched roofs. It is also known as a university town with Stellenbosch University home to some 25,000 students.

    It had been a very long day when we finally arrived back at our hotel. Bob and I looked for something simple to eat for dinner and found ourselves at a SUBWAY outlet in the Victoria Wharf complex. The food was good, but it was served by two of the surliest and unhappiest shop assistants I have ever dealt with. I felt like reminding them that a smile would have made both them and their customers feel so much better.    Read more

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    Cape of Good Hope

    April 4, 2012 in South Africa ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Tuesday 3rd April – To the Cape of Good Hope

    Once again, the day dawned fine, sunny and warm. We were met at the hotel by Tickey and a replacement assistant who was introduced at Richard. Apparently, the assistant we had met previously at the airport had been unexpectedly called home because of a sickness in his family and Richard would now be travelling with us as chief cook and assistant guide. Richard was a 23 year old with a keen sense of humour and a quite remarkable hairstyle. I remarked that it looked like he must have been struck by lightning at which he broke into a roaring belly laugh. This laugh was to become one of the highlights of the trip. (We also learned that Richard was a very talented cook as well).

    At 8.30 am we were on our way for a drive along the coastline and down to the Cape of Good Hope. As you leave Cape Town there is a steep and prolonged climb out of the coastal basin. The higher you climb the more impressive the views become. We then descended down the opposite side to the beautiful region of Hout Bay. Hout is apparently the Afrikaans word for wood and this bay was one of the first locations discovered by the Portuguese & Dutch who utilised it as a safe and sheltered harbour, protected on three side by towering mountains. I thought that the region along the Great Ocean Road in Victoria was one of the world’s most beautiful drives but I would have to admit that the road along the Cape would give it strong competition.

    We continued further to the Cape of Good Hope, stopping several times along the way to photograph wandering animals, including several types of antelopes, ostriches and baboons. The Cape is one of the best-known geographical locations on earth and is marked by a large sign denoting it as the “most southwestern point of the African continent”. I had pictured it as a wild place with huge waves driving passing ships to their destruction on the rocks, however when we were there it looked like the complete opposite. The oceans were so calm that we could see fishermen out in their small tin boats several hundred metres from the shore. There was almost no wind and the temperature would have been in the high 20s. By the same token, when I looked out over the wide expanse of the ocean and considered that the next land mass was Antarctica, it was not hard to imagine that conditions could probably change very rapidly.

    We walked along the cliff tops to Cape Point lighthouse. Although there is a funicular railway to the summit, we decided to walk instead. After our recent climb to the top of Table Mountain, this climb was quite mild by comparison. From the lighthouse at the top, you can get an amazing panoramic view of the Cape Peninsula and the oceans disappearing as far as the eye can see. When I am at places like this, I make a conscious effort to try to capture the entire experience in my memory bank. While some spend all their time taking dozens of photos, I prefer to physically absorb the feelings that the location gives to me, in the hope that I might be able to better recall them in the years to come.

    On our way back to Cape Town we stopped at a place called Boulders to visit a large colony of African penguins. These are sometimes referred to as Jackass penguins because of the strange braying noise they make. I always find it hard to watch these lovely little comical creatures without breaking into a smile.

    After a long and event filled day, we arrived back at Cape Town a little after 6 pm.    Read more

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    Robben Island

    April 2, 2012 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Monday 2nd April – Off to Robben Island

    The day dawned fine, warm and clear. High above there were a few wispy streamers of light cloud painting the blue African sky. We had the morning free but had booked in for an afternoon ferry ride out to Robben Island. This place was most famous as the island prison where Nelson Mandela was held captive for 27 years during the infamous days of apartheid.

    I spent the morning in a fruitless search for a charger for my tablet. Although this gave me an interesting insight into some of the less glamorous parts of the city, it did not result in a successful conclusion. Along the way I did discover just how many people can fit into an 11 seater taxi van (correct answer is 20). At least all of my fellow squashees were polite and cheerful.

    At 2 pm I was back at the waterfront and ready for the tour of Robben Island. The island lies about 7 km off the coast and has served as a penal and leper colony at various times in its checkered history. In more recent times it was used to house political prisoners (males and blacks only) who were deemed by the apartheid regime to be enemies of the state. The ferry ride took about 35 minutes, and this was followed by an extended tour of the prison, conducted by a former inmate who had been held captive here for 11 years.

    The return trip on the ferry gave us a glorious view of Cape Town and Table Mountain. It would be hard to imagine a more impressive approach to any port in the world.    Read more

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    An April Fool's Day Abseil

    April 1, 2012 in South Africa ⋅ 12 °C

    Sunday April 1st – To the Top of Table Mountain

    We awoke at 6 am to another perfect day with not a single cloud to blot the sky. The calendar reminded me that it was April Fools’ Day and I could not help starting to have second thoughts about my suggestion that we climb Table Mountain and abseil from the 1100 metre summit. After all there is a perfectly good cable car which could transport us all to the top without any of us even needing to raise a sweat. Why would anyone actually choose to scramble and suffer all the way to the top, especially at our advanced ages ?

    In spite of my secret misgivings, we all had an early breakfast and caught a taxi to the office of Abseil Africa (the extreme adventure company which advertised the climb and abseil). It was not too encouraging to discover that their office was in a rather dubious part of town, the atmosphere permeated with the strong ammoniacal odour of fresh urine. Apparently, the lane served as an unofficial urinal for the numerous homeless people living nearby. I looked up at the sign over their door and noted that the proprietors’ motto was “We always let you down”. Was this some sort of cruel joke, intended to scare away everyone apart from the truly insane?

     Although we had arrived at the appointed time of 8.30 am (we had been forewarned not to be late), the office doorway was tightly locked and secured by a forbidding steel grate. The place looked deserted. Just when I started to think that we could just forget the whole silly idea and spend the day in a much more sensible pastime, the door opened, and we were summoned to our execution.

    We were introduced to our guide and to the abseil supervisor, neither of whom looked a day over 18. When I asked if it was safe, the only reply I received was a sort of guilty chuckle. After hearing about a near disaster with a bungie jumping enterprise on the Zambezi Gorge a few days earlier, I was wondering whether occupational health and safety were priorities on this continent. The problem was that it was now too late to pull out without losing all credibility and bringing scorn to the Ghostriders’ spirit of adventure.

    After a few minutes we were ushered to a waiting taxi for the short drive to the foot of the mountain. Soon we were on the rocky path to the summit. I crooked my neck to look above, and the sheer face of the mountain looked a truly formidable challenge. With the sun now beating down on us it did not take long for the sweat to start flowing and the heart to start pumping hard. We found that the hiking route rises steeply and relentlessly all the way to the top. In fact, much of the route is a rock scramble over large and uneven steps. This makes it difficult to get any sort of rhythm going.

    Our route to the top was via the Platteklip Gorge. This rugged opening in the otherwise sheer face of the mountain provides access to the flat plateau at the summit. The only problem was that, when we looked up, the opening of the gorge looked just so far away. Slowly and steadily, we made our way higher and higher. As I turned to look behind us, we could see an incredible vista taking shape below. The buildings of Cape Town were diminishing, and the incredible expanse of the Atlantic Ocean was opening up as far as the eye could see. It truly was a breathtaking spectacle (that is if you had any breath left to take) and I am sure that none of us will ever forget it.

    For one member of our group this climb will be especially memorable. Not so long-ago Jerry had two knee replacements and a hip replacement and yet here he was passing many much younger climbers on the way to the summit. This was an incredible personal achievement and also a testimonial to the quality of modern surgical techniques.

    After about 2 hours of climbing interspersed with a few well-earned rest stops we finally emerged at the flat expanse that marks the top of Table Mountain.

    Unfortunately we had little time to savour our achievement before we were led like lambs to the slaughter for our planned abseil. When the final count was taken, although I had tried to encourage everyone to have a go, it turned out that only three of us were too chicken to say NO to the abseil. I was being joined by Bob and Noel. None of us had ever abseiled before so I guess in one way we would literally be starting at the top. After this act of stupidity, surely nothing else could raise the same level of fear and anxiety.

    I was soon strapped into a flimsy looking harness and a silly looking helmet that looked like it would offer about as much protection as an ostrich egg on my head. We were then pushed out over the safety rail and coerced onto a tiny ledge at the top of the most terrifying drop I have ever seen. I have experienced vertigo in many places, including the top of the Eiffel Tower, however this was more than three times higher than that and there were no more safety fences. The only thing offering any sort of security was a flimsy looking rope. I reminded the supervisor that I was a big bloke and needed reassuring that the rope was strong enough. He replied that it “probably could take twice my weight” – a very narrow margin for error as far as I was concerned. Maybe I should not have had that second serving of bacon and eggs for breakfast!

    Fortunately I had skillfully maneuvered myself into a position behind Noel and Bob, meaning that I would be the final one to go over the edge. On the other hand, since they were both skinny guys about half my size, the rope would not really be getting a thorough test. I would have liked to have tested it with a small elephant or a piano first, just to make sure.

    On the ledge above us we could see the rest of our group looking down and waving to us. I tried to put on a brave face and pretend that I was not terrified. It was just as well they did not know just how dry my throat was or how shaky my knees felt.

    After Noel and Bob were thrown over the edge it was my turn. It was too late to turn back now, and they always say you should face your fears head on. Well in my case I was facing them with my backside as I was calmly told to walk backwards to the edge and then hang out over the 1000 metre drop. If that was not bad enough, they said “Now let go and put your hands in the air” so that they could take a picture for their web site. They had to be joking but they really had me over a barrel (or more accurately a precipice). Deciding that everyone has to die sometime and that falling off Table Mountain would be a pretty memorable way to go. At least I could enjoy a few seconds of feeling like superman before the rapid stop at the bottom.

    With my hands in the air and my face a rictus of terror they took their blessed picture and then told me to walk backwards off the cliff. Sounds easy doesn’t it ? Believe me, it isn’t, especially when the cliff disappears altogether and you are left rotating in space at the end of the rope. At that stage I had no alternative other than to concentrate on what I had been instructed to do and trust that the process will work. Far, far below I could see the miniature buildings of Cape Town and the wide blue expanse of the ocean passing slowly before my eyes. In the background I could just sense the highlights of my life also passing before my eyes. It would be impossible to describe accurately the combination of terror, exhilaration, panic and euphoria that flows through your body at times like this.

    I could not see where I was going but just kept feeding in the rope and continued slowly dropping towards the yawning abyss. At one stage I passed a couple of rock climbers working their way to the summit. With a wave and a forced smile I tried to pretend that I was completely in control of both my rope and my emotions. In fact neither was true.

    After what seemed like an eternity but was in fact probably only 5 or 6 minutes I was pulled onto a small ledge by an assistant and informed that somehow, I had actually survived the ordeal. Abseil Africa had lived up their motto and had indeed “let me down” – safely. Bob and Noel were waiting to welcome me, and we spent a few moments shaking hands and sharing the excitement of the occasion. Now that I was safely on the ground (or more accurately perched on a narrow ledge on the side of the mountain) I began to think of how much easier it would be a second time around. On the other hand, there is no point in tempting fate too much and decided it was best to quit while still alive.

    Unfortunately, our battle was not completely over as we then had to climb along a precarious path quite some distance around the cliff face and then rejoin the main path back up to the summit FOR A SECOND TIME. The combination of emotions had left us quite tired, and it actually took quite a lot of effort to rejoin our waiting companions at the summit kiosk. By that time, I was so thirsty that I promptly drank a whole litre of Coca Cola, just to replace both my fluid and caffeine levels. We then spent some astonishing at the views from both sides of the mountain before catching the cable car back down to the base.

    I have seen some beautiful vistas in my life in the Andes, the Himalayas, Hong Kong Harbour from Victoria Peak, Paris from the Eiffel Tower, etc but I would have to admit that the view from the top of Table Mountain was one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. Of course, we were very fortunate to have crystal clear conditions. When the tablecloth descends on to the summit apparently you cannot see a damn thing.

    Later in the afternoon I returned to our hotel for a shower and to catch up on some laundry before wandering back to Victoria Wharf to watch some free entertainment. In the evening the entire group met for dinner at a seafood restaurant under the stars. It had been a day I will remember for the rest of my life.    Read more

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    A Lost Charger

    March 31, 2012 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Saturday 31st March – In Cape Town

    After about 9 hours sleep, I awoke to a completely clear day. Considering the marathon travelling experience we had just endured over the previous two days it was great to find out that all our participants were feeling so much better. I enjoyed a generous breakfast at a window side table with a panoramic view out to Table Mountain. Because of its location and size Table Mountain is usually covered by a thick cloud known as the “tablecloth”. Not only was the tablecloth completely missing but the weather forecast for the next few days was excellent. This was just as well for on the following day we were booked in for a guided climb to the summit of Table Mountain followed by the world’s highest abseil. This was something that I had read about in Australia, but now that the big event was only a day away, I must admit that I was starting to wonder if I would have the nerve to go through with it.

    When I returned to my room, I discovered that I had left the charger for my computer tablet back home in Australia. Although I looked far and wide for a computer store that would sell me a charger without having to buy a whole new tablet, this eventually turned out to be an impossible task and I had to resign myself to the fact that, once it went flat, I would not be able to use it again. This is not a mistake I will ever make again.    Read more

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    Cape Town

    March 30, 2012 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Friday 30th March – Arrival in Africa

    Fortunately, our South African Airlines took off on time and gave us a smooth and uneventful 10-hour flight to Johannesburg where we arrived just after sunrise.
    This gave us our first sight of Africa, even if it was just the vast concrete of the sprawling airport. We still had to endure a further 2 hour wait and another transfer to the domestic terminal for our flight to Cape Town. By now we were all nearing exhaustion but were kept waiting a little longer when fog delayed our flight to Cape Town by a further 45 minutes.

    Finally, we lifted off from Johannesburg and landed in Cape Town at about 10 am local time. We staggered from the plane, collected our luggage and made our way to the exit of the airport. I was relieved to be met by a tall, smiling Africa who introduced himself as “Tickey”. Apparently this was his surname but, as his first name was the somewhat unlikely “Claudius” he quickly explained that he preferred to be referred to simply as Tickey. He also introduced his quiet assistant “Komoro” and explained that they would be looking after us for our entire time in Africa.

    Grabbing our bags, we followed Tickey to their waiting safari bus which was parked just outside in a 15-minute parking zone. Our luggage was packed while we crawled into our seats. Since the vehicle could hold 16 passengers and we had only 11 in our group we were pleasantly surprised at the amount of space available. The vehicle had very large wheels giving it a high ground clearance. It also had two large freezers at the rear which were used to keep our food and drinks cool during the trip. One thing that the bus did not have was air conditioning, although this certainly would have been welcome later in our trip.
    As it turned out the other thing the bus did not have was one of the Ghostriders !
    Somehow in our walk from the exit to the bus Jenny had become separated from the group and was now nowhere to be found. Search parties were dispatched but, after 30 minutes of frantic searching, she was still missing. This was not a promising start to our trip and Tickey was getting concerned that the bus would be towed away. Just as we were starting to worry, Jenny was found waiting on the lower level. With a great sense of relief, we finally shut the bus door and began the drive from the airport to our hotel in Cape Town.

    Along the way we were able to get our first real images and impressions of Cape Town. Although Cape Town is normally regarded as one of the most prosperous areas of South Africa it still possesses significant areas of shanty towns. Here residents have erected small dwellings made out of any materials they can get their hands on – wood, plastic sheeting, corrugated iron being the most common.

    A little further on we got our first sight of the towering Table Mountain which is certainly the most famous feature of this city by the sea. In fact, as viewed from the Atlantic Ocean, you can see that the city is literally sandwiched in between the mountain and the ocean. One of our first goals on this trip was to climb this mountain and view Cape Town from its 1100 metre summit.

    Our hotel was situated in the waterfront area, only a short walk from the new Victoria Wharf complex. This is a bustling region, full of shops, restaurants and open air entertainment. The nearby wharf is still a fully operational port and this adds a vibrancy that is so sadly lacking from Melbourne’s Docklands precinct.
    Over the next few days we came to appreciate just how convenient it was to have a hotel in this area.

    After lunch at a waterfront restaurant, we finally were taken to our hotel. More correctly we were taken directly to prison! We discovered that the Breakwater Hotel was formerly one of the major prisons, but it has now been converted to a hotel and university. We were relieved to find it modern and clean and its location was absolutely perfect. Not only was it only a short walk from the waterfront but it also offered a magnificent view of Table Mountain.

    Before checking into our rooms, we had a short team briefing with Tickey at which he outlined the way the safari was going to be conducted. By this time, we were all sitting with glazed looks on our faces as it had been something like 40 hours since any of us had been asleep in a real bed. Although the natural tendency is to go straight to bed in the middle of the afternoon, this is not a wise thing to do as it only prolongs the period of jet lag. We all decided to tough it out till after dinner and then finally get into our beds at about 8.30 pm.    Read more

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    The Long Journey Starts

    March 29, 2012 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Thursday 29th March – The Long Journey Over

    Awaking early I began by a final check over my gear. After ensuring that I had my passport, cash, credit card and flight itinerary I decided that the rest was not important and quickly stuffed it all back into my bag. It was hard to concentrate on much so I decided to just sit and read to pass the time until Noel and Jenny arrived to pick me up. Soon after noon we were finally underway. The first stop was at Rick and Anne’s house to swap to a larger car and share the drive to the long term car park near the airport. From there we caught a minibus to Tullamarine, arriving soon after 4 pm. It had taken over 3 hours so far and we were still in Melbourne.

    We were soon joined by the rest of our team and checked our luggage in for the first leg to Perth. This period is always an exciting time with everyone keenly looking forward to the adventure that lies ahead. Once the luggage is checked in you can’t help feeling that you are finally underway. All that remained was to spend a couple of hours drinking coffee and chatting in one of the airport cafes.

    Our flight left Melbourne soon after 8 pm and arrived in Perth at around 9.30 pm local time after a three and a half hour flight. Here we had to collect our luggage and transfer from the domestic to the international terminal (a 20 minute bus ride away). We quickly cleared customs and, once again, sat down to wait in the departure lounge for our 11.50 pm flight to Johannesburg. It is this interminable airport waiting that I find one of the most frustrating things about long distance travel.    Read more

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    Night Before Departure

    March 28, 2012 in Australia ⋅ 12 °C

    Wednesday 28th March – Emerald, Australia

    I stood outside under a completely clear sky and marveled at the starry display overhead. As I scanned along the brilliant band of stars that we know as the Milky Way I could not help but think that the next time I would see the stars would be from African soil. After almost two years of planning and dreaming it our African Adventure was about to get underway. My bags were already packed and waiting by the front door for the trip to Tullamarine and the start of our long journey to Cape Town. I went to bed hoping for a good night’s sleep, but the excitement combined with a thousand random thoughts running around in my head to ensure that the anticipated sleep remained elusive and scarce.Read more

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    Introduction

    March 27, 2012 in Australia ⋅ 9 °C

    Introduction:

    Way back in the 1960s when I was a high school student, we were required to read a book called “Cry the Beloved Country” by Alan Paton. It was reading that book that started a lifelong fascination with the African continent. Over the next 40 years I read many other books about Africa, including the entire series of books by Wilbur Smith. More recently it was the brilliant “Number One Detective Agency” series by Alexander McCall Smith that stirred that interest all over again.

    About two years ago I started to seriously look at the possibility of completing a Ghostrider Adventure in this amazing corner of the world. Previous trips had already taken us to China, Nepal, India, Cambodia, Europe and South America but Africa would be an entirely different prospect altogether. Over the next twelve months I searched the Internet for travelling options in Africa and gradually a plan started to take shape. I discussed these ideas with World Expeditions who then worked with their African partners to help turn our dream into a practical reality.

    A year ago I asked for expressions of interest from others who would like to join me in this adventure and I was thrilled to find 12 others who were just as keen to share the trip with me. These included Gael & Gerry Driessen who I had known for several years. Gael had already completed our 2008 China ride and the 2009 Nepal Adventure. Gerry had been keen to participate in previous adventures but had been held back by chronic knee problems. By 2011 Gerry had been fitted out with two new knees and a replacement hip and he was ready to make up for lost time.

    Noel and Jenny Wolstencroft were also friends who I had known for many years. Noel had already completed our 2007 China Ride and the 2009 Nepal Trek. In addition both Noel and Jenny had completed our first European ride in 2009. For Noel it would be his fourth adventure with the Ghostriders. I already knew they would make great travelling companions.

    Rick and Ann Coxhill had both taken part in our 2010 South America Challenge and Rick had completed our 2009 Nepal Trek. For Ann, such trips constitute an even bigger challenge for most others as she is an insulin dependent diabetic. I was thrilled to have the chance to share another trip with them both.

    The first time I met Jan Kennedy was when she came to buy some second had furniture from me for sale in her shop. Somehow we started talking about Africa and a few weeks later she contacted me to let me know that she and her partner Vince Carter had decided to join us. This was to be their first Ghostrider trip but I was very confident that they would love every minute of it.

    Bob Andrews had been a regular rider with the Ghostriders for many years and had already joined us for the 2010 South America Adventure. Bob is in his early seventies but has more energy and a greater sense of adventure than most men half his age. The only thing he doesn’t have is good hearing and he often goods a lot of good natured teasing about his malfunctioning hearing aids. Since Bob and I were to be travelling as the only single males he would be my roommate for the trip.

    We were also to be joined by Glenda Wise who I first met in 2006. Since then she has been a regular participant in our overseas challenges, having completed our 2007 and 2008 China Rides and our 2009 Nepal Trek. The Africa trip would be her fourth Ghostrider Adventure (and she will also be completing our Turkey Adventure later this year as well). Glenda throws herself into every adventure with an uninhibited sense of adventure and no one knows how to shop like she does.

    In addition to those above we were to have two others but these had to drop out before departure. Heather Snowden had participated in our 2011 Europe Ride and was very keen to go to Africa however she was inflicted with a very bad back just a few weeks before departure. Helen Minogue was also keen to be a part of our adventure but had to withdraw because of illness in her family. I sincerely hope both Heather and Helen will get their chance sometime in the near future.

    Thus our final team consisted of 11 participants. After 12 months of planning and anticipation by our appointed departure time in March 2012 we were all ready and eager to get under way. This is the story of our adventure.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2011 Rome and ParisThe World on Two Wheels

    Free Day in Singapore

    October 2, 2011 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    My time in Singapore was short, and I did not want to spend that time in the hustle and bustle of the city. I looked for an alternative place where I might be able to at least have some personal space. And so, I headed for the famous Singapore Zoo. At least there was plenty of gardens, trees and some interesting animals as well. It turned out to be an ideal place to spend my final free day, before heading back to Melbourne.Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2011 Rome and ParisThe World on Two Wheels

    Singapore

    October 1, 2011 in Singapore ⋅ 26 °C

    Leaving the air conditioned cocoon of the airport terminal building, you are immediately hit by a wave of super heated and very humid air. The temperature of Singapore is always about 30C and 100 per cent humidity, regardless of the hour of day. They say you eventually get used to it, but I think I would rather get used to the dentist's drill - I just find it exhausting.

    I made a beeline for the airconditioned hotel and was content to observe the city through my window. The room was cool and the bed was comfortable.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2011 Rome and ParisThe World on Two Wheels

    Goodbye Paris

    September 30, 2011 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Since I had flown to Europe with Singapore Airlines, it was easy to arrange a stopover in Singapore on the way back to Melbourne. It had been almost 20 years since I had been in Singapore and I thought that a short stay would serve to break the long journey home.

    Early in the morning I packed my bags and headed off to CDG Airport, Shortly after 12 noon, I was lifting off and beginning the long journey home. After the time spent cycling the Danube and Elbe Rivers, and my stays in Rome and Paris, I was looking forward to being safely home in my own bedroom again.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2011 Rome and ParisThe World on Two Wheels

    Eifel Tower & Moulin Rouge

    September 28, 2011 in France ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    When I booked this trip I also booked a Paris Package. Included in this package was a dinner at the Second Level of the Eifel Tower and an evening show at the famous Moulin Rouge.

    The Moulin Rouge Show did not start until quite late in the evening. Looking around at the hundreds of people all crowded together in the old building, I could not help but think of how bad it would be in the case of a fire.

    I had assumed that I would be transported back to my hotel at the end of the show. This turned out to be a wrong assumption. This is how I found myself wandering the dark streets of Montmartre at about 1 am in the morning. I looked in vain for any sign of something that I could recognise from the daytime and began to fear that I would be spending the night huddling in an alleyway.

    To my great relief I finally found a familiar Metro station. I had got off the train at that station earlier in the day, and cautiously retraced my steps to the hotel, When I saw the familiar awning outside the hotel door, I was almost ecstatic. It had been an interesting experience, but I vowed that in future I would always bring a GPS with me.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2011 Rome and ParisThe World on Two Wheels

    Paris - Catacombs

    September 27, 2011 in France ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    It was a busy day today as I wandered around the city, visiting the underground catacombs, Sacre Coeur Cathedral, Notre Dame, the Louvre and the Tuileries Gardens. Somehow I managed to learn how to use the Metro and found my way back to the hotel at the end of the day.Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2011 Rome and ParisThe World on Two Wheels

    Bonjour Paris

    September 26, 2011 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today I left Rome and took a short flight to Paris. My hotel is situated in Montmartre, the elevated part of Paris known as the 18th Arrondaisement,

    Upon looking at the confusing array of streets, seemingly heading off in all directions, I was not at all confident that I would ever be able to find my way back to the hotel.Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2011 Rome and ParisThe World on Two Wheels

    Ancient Pompei

    September 25, 2011 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today I had booked a day excursion to the ancient city of Pompei, in the south of Italy near Naples. It was an early and a long drive in the bus. As we travelled south, it became evident that the region was struggling economically, with so many buildings decaying and falling apart.

    After a short time in Naples, we drove to Pompei, situated close to the famous Mt Vesuvius. It was a fascinating wander through the extensive streets of this doomed city.

    We did not get back to Rome until late in the evening.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2011 Rome and ParisThe World on Two Wheels

    Rome - Day 2

    September 23, 2011 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    This was actually the first time I had been in Rome and, like any other tourist, I walked out from the front door of my hotel, and somehow manage to find my way to the Forum and the Coliseum. I then spent quite a few hours wandering the ruins and trying to imagine what the place would have been like in its heyday.

    By the middle of the afternoon, the combination of hot sun, crowds of people and a LOT of walking, sent me back to the hotel in search of a rest and some cool air.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2011 Rome and ParisThe World on Two Wheels

    Arrival in Rome

    September 22, 2011 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After the cyclin component of the trip was completed, I was in no particular hurry to return to Australia, therefore I decided to take the long and slow route home, with stops in Rome, Paris and Singapore.

    The flight from Dresden to Rome went smoothly and I time. I had previously booked a nice looking 2 star hotel on the Internet and was looking to settling in and exploring the surroundings.

    I gave my taxi driver the address of the hotel and watched some of the famous sights of the city pass by from the back seat of the car. After 45 mins or so, we reached the hotel. I unloaded my luggage and dragged into the foyer of the hotel, then introduced myself to the young man behind the counter.

    He tapped away for a few moments and then put on a sad face. "There is a problem with your room", he said. "It has a water leak". This was not the sort of welcome I had been expecting.

    "But we have some good news", he added. "We have found another hotel, just as good as this one, and very close".

    I have since learnt that this is a common scam in Rome, where hotels overbook their rooms and then fob you off to some inferior alternative (at the same price). At the time I was too tired to argue, and I was directed to take my luggage to the substitute hotel.

    To my relief, the substitute place was not as bad as it could have been. Although the room was tiny, at least it had a bed - and I could see no signs of a water leak. It became my home for the next four nights.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2011 - Prague to DresdenThe World on Two Wheels

    Dresden - Free Day

    September 21, 2011 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    With our cycling now finished, we were free to revert to just being regular tourists for a change. We utilised our time by walking the city and seeing some of the major sights. We also entertained ourselves by hiring a 10 seater circular bicycle (actually in order to be a bicycle, it should only have two wheels). We spent as much time laughing as pedalling, and since I was in the worst position and facing backwards the whole time, I found it all slightly terrifying.

    Tomorrow the group will finally all break up and go their separate ways. I will be flying to Rome, a city I have never visited before.    Read more

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