In May 2013 11 Ghostriders headed off to Bhutan on what will go down as our most magical and memorable ride ever. Read more
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  • Day 1

    Arrival in Bangkok

    May 5, 2013 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Arriving at Bangkok late in the evening we transferred to the Convenient Grand Hotel for an overnight stay before completing our journey to Bhutan the next morning,

  • Day 2

    A Very Scary Landing in Bhutan

    May 6, 2013 in Bhutan

    It was a very early start (and very little sleep) as we gathered back at Bangkok Airport at 4 am for the early flight to Paro Airport in Bhutan. There was only airline that was equipped for landings at the tiny airport situated high in the Himalayas, and only around 7 pilots who were certified for the very tricky landing.

    And so began my first flight with Druk Airlines (aka Royal Bhutan). I had heard all about how dangerous the landing at Paro Airport was, and I have to admit that I was experiencing some anxiety as we flew closer and closer to the towering mountains.

    As the plane tilted and turned, seemingly almost touching the ridges, all the passengers were holding their collective breaths. Eventually I caught my first glimpse of the tiny landing strip and wondered just how hard the pilot would have to work to land the plane safely.

    The final couple of minutes of the flight were particularly hair raising as we narrowly missed the houses perched on the top of the final ridge. Then we dropped sharpy and aimed straight for the runway. Once the wheels touched, it was a full brake power screaming stop. But at least we were safely on the ground. So far, so good I thought.

    We climbed down the stairs from the plane and walked across the tarmac to the small terminal building. Fortunately our luggage also made the journey safely, and soon we were all sitting in a bus and heading towards our first hotel.

    There was not much conversation as we all had our faces glued to the windows, mesmerized by the unfamiliar sights that were all around us. Bhutanese people still nearly all wear the traditional costume of a loosely fitting tunic, with long sleeves and knee high socks. It was a sight we were to see continually over the next ten days.

    Since our flight had arrived before noon, we had the afternoon free to explore the city of Paro. . We even got to visit your first dzong. A dzong is a Bhutanese fortress which were constructed at strategic locations throughout the country. They contain both temple and administrative offices of the district government.

    Almost every town that we stayed in on the trip had a dzong and the local governments still work within their grand walls. Dzong are built with high sloping walls, inside we found detailed woodwork and courtyards. The main dzong in Paro was constructed in the 15th century and still houses the administrative offices of Paro.

    What was once the watchtower for the dzong is now the national museum and this was our next stop. The museum holds a great collection of artefacts from Bhutanese history.

    The Bhutanese Buddhist belief is full of gods, demons, saints, historical figures and kings. It was a fascinating introduction to the country, but it had been a very long day and I was so glad to finally hit the bed.

    My diary entry reads:
    We have now had a few hours to explore Paro and the more we see the more we fell in love with this place. It is just so magical that it is like we have left the earth and landed on another planet. The people have been so welcoming that we immediately felt at home, the streets are clean, the buildings are beautiful and the valley is breathtaking. I guess the fact that we are at an altitude of 2200 m also has something to do with the lack of breath. This afternoon we tried out our bikes for the first time and tomorrow we start riding - that will be the first big test.
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  • Day 3

    Exploring Paro by Bike

    May 7, 2013 in Bhutan

    Today we had the opportunity to climb on our bikes and test our legs by riding around the city of Paro and nearby hills.

    Here is my diary entry:

    I am sitting in our hotel in Paro on our second day in Bhutan, thinking that I have fallen in love. Yep fallen in love with this amazing little country. Before we arrived we all had preconceptions of what we were going to find but these have been swept away in a few short hours. It is certainly different to any previous country I have ever travelled through. In some respects we all find ourselves shaking our heads in disbelief at the sights that await us around every corner. I suspected that is would be similar to nearby Nepal - I could not have been more wrong. It is little wonder that the Bhutanese people have fought so hard to maintain their wonderful culture and way of life.Read more

  • Day 4

    Ride to Thimpu

    May 8, 2013 in Bhutan

    Today we cycled from Paro to Thimpu, the capital city of Bhutan. The scenery along the way was delightful with lots of highly decorated houses dotted over the mountainsides. The road was interesting and had lots of climbs and descents. It was also interesting to see the way that local drivers choose to pass in the most dangerous places. Bhutanese road signs are always very polite - some examples "Please be careful of shooting rocks" followed by another sign 100 metres further on "Thank You". Other equally polite road signs warn of the dangers of speeding or using a mobile phone while driving. The people here are very respectful of their King, their country and the law.

    The weather started out a little cool and drizzly but the clouds soon lifted and we were able to do most of the ride in warm sunshine. I was reminded of those words about Camelot and the rain "never coming till after sundown". We are now safely in the hotel in Thimpu and a big Himalayan thunderstorm is bearing down on Thimpu. The thunder is rolling down the valley and echoing through the mountains. No wonder the name "Bhutan" means "Land of the Thunder Dragon".

    All our Ghostriders look terrific in their matching yellow jerseys and I am sure that we have been noticed everywhere we have been. All have agreed that the trip has already exceeded their expectations (and it''s only day 3).
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  • Day 5

    Climbing Higher

    May 9, 2013 in Bhutan

    Yesterday we rode from Paro to Thimpu. It was an undulating route and the thin air combined with the frequent climbs made the ride quite challenging. By the time we arrived at Thimpu we were relieved when we finally reached our hotel.
    Thimpu is the capital city of Bhutan and the seat of government for 6 months of the year. There appears to be a building boom in progress with dozens of large new buildings unde construction everywhere you look. Our hotel (The Riverview Hotel - find it on the Internet) has a great vantage point down to the rapidly flowing river and across to the city on the opposite side.

    In the afternoon we went to see the ceremonial lowering of the flag at the main Dzong (seat of government). It is also where the king has his office and his modest palace. I thought that he might have heard that the Ghostriders were in town and come to say hello, but there was no sign of him.

    This morning we climbed back on the bikes for a ride higher into the mountains. It had a few really gut busting climbs at around 12 to 15% which had everyone searching for the lowest possible granny gear while trying to grab lungful's of air.
    At one point we had to stop because the army was practising with large calibre weapons. It was almost the first time that the Ghostriders had found themselves in a war zone. The sound of the explosions booming through the mountains was quite impressive. At the summit of the climb, we left the bikes and climbed (staggered) up the side of a cliff face to a temple perched on the very top of a mountain. The views from the top made all the effort worthwhile and the downhill slide was easier than the going up. After a picnic lunch and game of Bhutanese darts in the sunshine we returned to our hotel - tired but happy.

    Our adventure will continue tomorrow with the longest ride of the trip. How will we fare ? Time will tell, I guess.
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  • Day 6

    Ride to Punakha

    May 10, 2013 in Bhutan

    This morning we left Thimpu on the next leg of our adventure (or should I say wheel of our adventure ?). The first few kilometres were undulating and then we hit the main challenge of the day - to ride up and over a 3200 metre pass. The climb went on and on and the road surface was full of ruts and potholes making it even worse than a dirt road. A few riders gave up early and ended up in the following bus but 6 of us persevered all the way to the summit. It was a pity that the low lying cloud did not part long enough for us to see the view which we were told is absolutely incredible.

    After lunch we then embarked on the longest and most exhilerating descent I have ever done. It just went on and on and on, eventually dropping over 2000 metres to Punakha. The road was great for some of the descent inviting some of our riders to take ridiculous risks, accompanied by hoots of exhileration. Then it degenerated into a dog track, shared with a succession of big Tata trucks belching smoke in our faces. When we finally arrived at our hotel late in the afternoon we were all high on endorphins and many said it was the best day's riding they have ever had.

    Tomorrow will be an easier day (we hope).
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  • Day 7

    Cycling the Giant Bridge

    May 11, 2013 in Bhutan

    Panukha, Bhutan Sat May 11th

    The spirit of Camelot is still alive and well here. We were able to complete our long day's ride yesterday in fine and mostly sunny conditions. It was not until we were securely at our hotel that the sky darkened with a lovely Himalayan thunderstorm with torrential rain, lightning and thunder. The rain persisted until nearly midnight but when we awoke in the morning the skies were clear again.

    We rode a short distance along the banks of a glorious white water river to the most beautiful Dzong we have yet seen. Situated right above the river bank, the imposing structure was fronted by a row of huge jacaranda trees, all in full bloom with a cloak of brilliant purple flowers. The fallen petals also made a frgrant floral carpet under our feet as we approached the front entrance. In Bhutan, Dzongs serve a dual purpose as seats of government and also as monasteries/temples.

    Once inside the structure the inner courtyard offered a cool and peaceful sanctuary from the outside world. All the timber work was covered with the most intricate paintwork and the cooing doves added to the general serenity of the place. We spent some time exploring this exquisite building and we were reminded again of just how few tourists ever travel to Bhutan. In Europe such a place would be crammed with thousands of jostling tourists, all clicking on their cameras, playing with their phones, smoking cigarettes and following someone with a red flag on a stick. Here we had the place to ourselves and it was heavenly.

    The highlight of the ride to the Dzong had been the crossing of the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan. At 210 metres long and towering high above the turbulent waters far below, it certainly was a sight to behold. Some of us decided to ride our bikes across the bridge and, while it was not quite as confronting as abseiling from the summit of Table Mountain, it was certainly enough to get the adrenaline pumping.On the return ride we followed the sealed road rather the muddy track we had followed on the outward ride. The midday sun was hot and burning and we were glad to reach the cool shade of a local restaurant where we stopped for lunch. Now that I am safely back at the hotel it is looking like the rain is about to start again. How is that for timing ?
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  • Day 8

    Over the Lawala Pass to Gangtey

    May 12, 2013 in Bhutan

    Punakha, Bhutan - Sunday May 12th

    Happy Mothers' Day to all the mothers back there in Australia !!

    Even though I have described Bhutan as a veritable Shangri La in the Himalayas there is one aspect of its way of life that is less than perfect. Because of their great resepect for all livining things there is a huge population of wandering dogs that hang around all the places where people live. These dogs do not belong to anyone in particular but are obviously used to being fed by those nearby. During the daytime they mostly lie in the sun sleeping peacefully and it is not uncommon to see a dozen or more just dozing together. They are certainly not wild or aggressive, on the contrary they seem as gentle as the people that feed them. Sometimes they will cotton onto us and follow us along on our bikes, probably hoping that we will give them something to eat.

    In Australia the problem would be tackled by rounding them all up and probably destroying them. That would of course never happen here so they go on breeding exponentially. It is only after dark that this sleepy mass of dogs decide to all wake up and start up a nocturnal chorus of biblical proportions. In this town in particular you are serenaded by dozens of dogs all joining in some sort of Himalayan wailing and whining. Each dog seems to know its part and they all play their own part with incredible vigor. What a caucophony !!!! No wonder some books recommend bringing along ear plugs for sleeping. Of course, apart from the dogs, the nights are blissfully peaceful. While I am writing this another huge chorus of dogs has just begun a short distance from this hotel. It will continue for several minutes and then just as suddenly they all stop at the same instant. Weird.

    Today we leave Punakha and head back up into the mountains. Within a few hours we will be back up at 3400 metres and a completely different climate. Down here it is much warmer and more humid, that's why it is used as the winter capital. When we are back up over 3000 metres we can say goodbye to the humidity and of course it will be much cooler. As far as the weather we have experienced so far, it has been very comfortable. I suspect that the max temperature during the day would be mid 20s, although the sun does have a strong burn factor in the thin air. At night it is probably about 15C. I have had no need for the thermals that I brought all the way from Australia with me.

    Last night we had a birthday party for Gonny Rundell (one of our riders). We even managed to get a beautiful chocolate birthday cake for her. I suspect it will be birthday she will long remember.

    Once we leave Punakha we will have no access to the Internet for several days. so this will be my final update until we get back to Paro.
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  • Day 9

    The Phobjika Valley

    May 13, 2013 in Bhutan

    I know I have been describing Bhutan as Shandri La since we arrived here 8 days ago. At the time we all thought that to be accurate, however I now know better for we have just returned from 3 days in the true Shangri La - an incredible magical valley hiiden high in the Himalaya, remote even by Bhutanese standards. Before I tell you any more about that magic valley I should fill you in on some of what we have been doing in the past few days.

    We rode out of Thimpu up to the rowering Dochula Pass at 3150 m. It was steep uphill all the way and the road was crumbling into dust for much of the way. In spite of this it was quite an achievement when we finally rolled into the stupa that marks the summit. Here were thousands of brightly coloured prayer flags flapping in the breeze. We spent some time to soak up the atmosphere before remounting the bikes for the hair raising and bone shattering 40 km descent to Punakha. With large trucks apperaing round the bends without warning it certainly paid to keep your concentration or else your ride could quickly have degenerated into a catastrophe. Fortunately we all made it safely to the bottom - battered but in high spirits.

    After a couple of days exploring the region around Punakha we climbed aboard the bus for the long slog up to the Lawala Pass (3300 metres). At the summit we were met by the sight of dozens of Yaks grazing in the rich pastures. These large beasts can only live at high altitudes and it was the first glimpse we had seen of them in Bhutan. This really made us feel like we were on the verge of another page in our unfolding adventure. It was then back on the bikes for the beautiful descent into the Phobijka Valley. This is world renowned for being the home to the Black Necked Crane. It did not take long for us to fall under the spel of this beautiful valley. In all my travels I doubt that I have ever seen a place just so spellbinding. It really was as if we had left time behind to venture into another world.

    As we climbed up the steep drive to our hotel we were faced with a building that looked like a storybook magic castle. The inside was just as mesmerising and the views from the dining room windows were breathtaking. It took in a full 180 degrees panorama and the valley looked like a huge green and fertile basin surrounded by towering mountains all around. Dotted throughout were dozens of houses, each one looking like a highly decorated dolls house. I could have just sat and admired the view for hours since I knew that no amount of photos would ever do it justice. This was about as remote as we were ever going to be. Since there was only one narrow road into this place I suspect that most would not have worried if the road had been blocked and we had been forced to stay a few days longer.

    To be continued
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