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The World on Two Wheels
The World on Two Wheels

The World on Two Wheels

After discovering the joys of cycling in 2002 I took a group of fellow riders to China in 2006. Since then we have gone on to complete 54 other overseas cycling and trekking adventures which have taken us all over the planet. En savoir plus🇦🇺Melbourne
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  • The World on Two WheelsCycling the Burma RailwayThe World on Two Wheels

    Free Days in Bangkok

    20 mai 2013, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    I am currently staying at the Somerset Lake Point Apartments, near the centre of Bangkok. My apartment is on the 17th floor with incredible views (especially at night time). I even have my own balcony, kitchen with microwave, hotplates, utensils, boiling water dispenser, large screen TV, spacious room, table and chairs, lounge suite, desk, huge bed, modern bathroom and even a set of bathroom scales. What a bargain for about $60 a night including buffet breakfast. I would gladly stay here again. The room is cleaned and serviced daily and I even have my own washing machine for washing and drying my clothes.

    Bangkok is a huge city of over 10 million people. Some would come and take a quick look at one small part ad decide that it is not for them. On the other hand, if you take the time to explore numerous parts of the city, you will find that it really can be a very interesting place to visit. The centre of the city is clean and the taxis are air conditioned and very cheap (most trips are under $4). The shopping centres are HUGE, making ours look small by comparison. When walking around Bangkok you will find that space on the footpaths is very rare as these are used for outdoor eating, motor bike parking, market stalls, eateries, roadside vendors, storage of boxes, just about anything. If you want to walk anywhere you will find yourself often walking on the edge of the road.

    The biggest challenge here is the heat and the humidity. Even well after dark the temperature hovers around 35C with steaming humidity to make you feel like you are in a sauna. After several days I am starting to acclimatise a little but I am very grateful for air conditioning. It will be a shock to get back to a Melbourne winter.

    This has been a very successful trip, especially the ride in Bhutan. I am sure that if others had realised just how amazing Bhutan is, they would have been keen to share this adventure with us. When I get back to Australia I only have two months before I leave for Europe with 20 others for our next French ride along the Loire.    En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two WheelsCycling the Burma RailwayThe World on Two Wheels

    Cycling the Countryside

    19 mai 2013, Thaïlande

    Starting again on the bikes from the resort we rode a series of small sealed and unsealed roads that wind their way around villages and farmland. After a short section on the main road and a "bit of a climb" uphill we descend back towards the river and make a visit to the Angkor Kingdom ruins called Muang Sing.
    This region marked around the furthest point west that the great Cambodian Empire once spread. After visiting the ruins it was a further 15km to the end of the ride, a late lunch, and the start of the drive back to our hotel in Bangkok.

    My diary reads:
    This morning we woke early for our final day's cycling. Riding out of the hotel we soon found ourselves carefully making our way along a series of back tracks. These had been turned into quagmires by the previous night's rain and we had lots of fun playing boats as we surged through the mud, concentrating hard to avoid falling into the slop on either side. These tracks were also undulating but I think we are starting to acclimatise better to the conditions as we all fared much better than we did in the heat on day one.
    After a couple of hours on back tracks we emerged onto a beautiful smooth bitumen road This gave us a chance to form into a pace line and enjoy 20 km or so of fast team riding, sitting between 30 to 35 kph (not bad for a mouuntain bike). This is the type of riding we are most experienced at and all of us had a ball. I think our guide was a little surprised at how fast we rode.

    The ride eventually ended at an ancient temple, and this is where our ride in Thailand officially ended. After a delightful lunch at a roadside restaurant, we climbed aboard the bus for the long bus ride back to Bangkok. Tomorrow most of our team will be returning to Australia. I will be staying here for a few more days.    En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two WheelsCycling the Burma RailwayThe World on Two Wheels

    Hellfire Pass and the Death Railway

    18 mai 2013, Thaïlande

    Starting the morning on the bikes we rode 38km on small roads that slowly get smaller and eventually turned to dirt as we head into a beautiful forested landscape. The finale to the ride was a suspension bridge that took us back over the river and back to the land of sealed roads.

    The support van was waiting to then drive us up the hill to Hellfire Pass. At Hellfire Pass we spent some time seeing the excellent museum and walked in the infamous Hellfire Pass.

    From here it was a short drive to Nam Tok train station, the modern day end of the train line that used to go all the way to Myanmar. A ride on the Death Railway took us travelling along a piece of WWII history. After crossing the perilous trestle bridge at Krasae Cave we transferred back to our hotel.

    My diary entry for this day:
    Today we really hit the mountains. With the fierce heat and humidity, even a moderate ride can take on a whole new level of challenge. We had the added dimension of some serious climbs to get over during the course of the morning's ride. Fortunately, we were able to get underway quite early and thus enjoy the "coolest" part of the day (a relative term).

    The ride took us through some delightful and very quiet rural roads, through farmlands growing every imaginable type of crop, reminding us over and over again at just how well everything grows here.

    Even though a few of the climbs were quite brutal (up to 15% gradient) we all managed to get up them without having a heart attack and then were able to savour the exhilarating downhills that followed each climb. Much of the riding was on unsealed tracks, requiring us to brush up on our mountain bike skills. In spite of the bumps, mud and puddles we all managed to stay upright.

    When the riding was completed, we went to visit the Hellfire Pass Museum. This is a modern complex, opened by John Howard in 1998. From here there is a steep downhill walk to Hellfire Pass itself. We walked along the path of the original railway noting that there are still a few of the old wooden sleepers there. It really must have been a terrible place to do back breaking work to cut a path through the solid rock. No wonder that so many thousands died here.

    We then took a ride along some of the remaining tracks of the railway on a local train. This was quite an experience, especially when it slows to a crawl to make its way along a large elevated trestle bridge.

    Late in the afternoon the skies opened with a tropical deluge, accompanied by lots of thunder and lightning. What a glorious display of nature.    En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two WheelsCycling the Burma RailwayThe World on Two Wheels

    Kanchanaburi and the Ride Starts

    17 mai 2013, Thaïlande

    We were picked up from our hotel for the 2-3 hours transfer to Kanchanaburi. Our drop off point was at the famous Bridge Over The River Kwai. This was actually my third visit to this historic location, but the first time that I would exploring it on a bicycle.
    After walking across the bridge to the quieter side of the river we set up the bikes and began the ride. The ride itself was a very pleasant 34km ride that at first followed the course of the river. Early in the ride we made a stop at a war cemetery and then after a short uphill left the bikes to squeeze through a cave that sits in the grounds of a local temple.

    The remainder of the day took us through farmland with everything from common crops like corn, rice and sugar cane to small patches of asparagus and chillies.

    Late in the ride we found ourselves riding alongside the very train tracks laid decades before by prisoners of war. At the end of the ride we transferred to our beautiful accommodation at the Boutique Raft Resort.

    Here is my diary entry for this day:
    Friday May 17th - somewhere in rural Thailand, near the Burma Railway.

    I am currently sitting next to a rapidly flowing river. The hot sun has finally set below the horizon and the mozzies are just starting to emerge. Our home for the next two nights consists of a series of floating rooms (see the pictures). Inside they have all modern cons - air conditioning, fridge, lovely bathroom, etc.

    Today we left Bangkok and drove to Kanchanaburi. This is where the famous Bridge on the River Kwai is located, although the true story bears no resemblance to the fictional story of the movie. We then got on the bikes for our first day of tropical riding. As expected, it was HOT, actually VERY HOT, in fact EXCEEDING HOT AND HUMID. This made it a really tough day's riding, even though it was a flattish course. I have never ridden in this sort of conditions before and the only way we could survive was to keep deluging ourselves with icy water. We have an excellent staff and two backup vehicles, so help was never far away. The tropical sun also burned with a fiery vengeance throughout the ride so I suspect that I willglow long after the light in my room is switched off.

    Other aspects of the trip are all excellent - great guide, very modern vehicles, great Merida MTBs, fantastic hotels, excellent food. Just a pity about the weather. I will be relieved to get back to a Melbourne winter and feel cold for a change.

    Tomorrow we hit the mountains, wow heat, humidity and high mountains - the terror trifecta !    En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two WheelsCycling the Burma RailwayThe World on Two Wheels

    Touchdown in Bangkok

    16 mai 2013, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Bhutan is not an easy destination to reach. Not only are the entry requirements very strict, but the isolated position, high in the Himalaya, keeps the little country effectively isolated from most of the outside world. For those travelling from Australia, the most common method of reaching Bhutan is to fly to Bangkok, and then catch a connecting flight to Paro.

    Since we would be returning to Australia via Bangkok, I thought that we could utilise our time there by spending a few days cycling. It seemed like a good idea at the time, however I underestimated the brutal heat and humidity that we would be facing at that time of the year in Thailand.

    The following is a brief account of our days spent sweltering on the Burma Railway. Unfortunately, most of my pictures from this trip were lost some years ago. The few images I do have have been collected from those few that I recovered.

    Here is my diary entry from the 16th May 2013, written after we had landed in Thailand.
    Bangkok May 16th
    The old saying reminds us that "what a difference a day makes" and we certainly witnessed the truthfulness of that today. This morning we packed up our bags for our final day in Bhutan, said goodbye to our faithful guides and made our way to the tiny Paro airstrip. Since this airstrip has everything going against it - including being at high altitude, having a short runway and being nestled between towering mountains on all sides, we were all a little apprehensive about the takeoff. I must admit that I had been hoping that the plane would be only half full and thus give us a better chance of lift after takeoff, however when I inquired of the check in girl, she calmy assured me that "every seat is full sir". Looking at the overladen bags of brass buddhas and similar heavy souvenirs being checked in, my anxiety levels rose even more. On the other hand, if we were going to fly headlong into a cliff face, at least it would be painless.

    There was one other plane to take off before us and I was pleased to see that it took off in the direction of the slightly less high mountain range. When it was our turn to take off the pilot decided to add some extra spice by taking off towards the highest mountains possible. Obviously, he wanted a challenge and he put on quite a display as we roared off with engines straining and then rapidly swerving from side to side in a series of stomach twisting maneuvers. In spite of his best attempts to prune the treetops, somehow, we did manage to break away from gravity and climb through the thin air - right into the centre of a huge cyclone.
    the morning news told all about the massive cyclone that was currently devastating Bangladesh, but I did not know then that we would be flying right into it. With massive thunderclouds all around us the plane tossed violently from side to side as the pilot warned that "the drinks service will be suspended". He also announced that we would be landing for a refuelling stop in Dakar !
    Nobody told us about that in the itinerary. As we dropped to a landing our views of Bangladesh revealed a country almost completely under water, in fact the whole place looked like a huge swamp. Dropping lower the rain started sheeting across the window beside me. Although we did not have mountains to consider I just hoped the pilot's windscreen wipers were in good order. With a few side shifts the plane did manage to crab its way onto the runway but then had to dramatically execute a high speed left hand turn when a tractor appeared on the runway in front of us. I guess that probably happens all the time here, but it did convince me that we would NEVER conduct a Ghostriders Bangladesh ride !!!!!

    After a 45 min stop and a bellyfull of fuel the plane took off again for a rough 2 hour flight to Bangkok. The towering cloud and storm formations all around us were quite spectacular and the Drukair plane seemed to be taking the battering in its stride. Needless to say we did land safely and are now resting in our hotel in Bangkok.

    Tomorrow our next adventure begins when we confront the searing heat of Thailand to begin our first Thailand ride.    En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by BikeThe World on Two Wheels

    Farewell Bhutan

    16 mai 2013, Bhoutan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Paro, Bhutan, Thursday May 16th

    In just a few short hours we will be flying out this little country and our amazing adventure will be coming to an end. Although we will be leaving, I am sure that part of our hearts will be here forever. From the moment we landed just 11 days ago we were immediately captivated by the beautiful scenery and the gentle, quiet spirit of the people. Wherever we have travelled our affection has grown and now we are at the point when we are genuinely sorry to be leaving.

    We all count ourselves fortunate indeed to have had the privelege to visist this secretive country where they revere their animals and mountains so much that all animals are protected and their towering Himalayan peaks are sanctuaries that are out of bounds to climbers. What a contrast this is to the situation that you find in neighbouring Nepal. I wonder how long the people will be able to stay relatively untouched by western influences now that they have access to TV and the Internet. I suspect that this will inevitably erode the strict standards of dress and morals that they currently have. It wonderful to see everyone, from toddlers to elderly, dressed in the national costume of white sleeved gown. Especially refreshing has been the complete absence of smoking - no clouds of noxious smoke, no cigarette buts under foot. Cigarettes are banned throughout the country, that alone says a lot about the attitude that happiness is really the most important goal to be achieved by the government.

    I just saw on the news that a big cyclone is heading for Bangladesh. That is a bit of a concern just when we are about to take off from the world's most dangerous airstrip and then fly directly into Bangladesh ! Oh well, maybe our adventure is not quite over yet......

    Bye from Bhutan

    Part 2 (written in Bangkok)
    Bangkok May 16th
    The old saying reminds us that "what a difference a day makes" and we certainly witnessed the truthfulness of that today. This morning we packed up our bags for our final day in Bhutan, said goodbye to our faithful guides and made our way to the tiny Paro airstrip. Since this airstrip has everything going against it - including being at high altitude, having a short runway and being nestled between towering mountains on all sides, we were all a little apprehensive about the takeoff. I must admit that I had been hoping that the plane would be only half full and thus give us a better chance of lift after takeoff, however when I inquired of the check in girl she calmy assured me that "every seat is full sir". Looking at the overladen bags of brass buddhas and similar heavy souvenirs being checked in, my anxiety levels rose even more. On the other hand, if we were going to fly headlong into a cliff face, at least it would be painless.

    There was one other plane too take off before us and I was pleased to see that it took off in the direction of the slightly less high mountain range. When it was our turn to take off the pilot decided to add some extra spice by taking off towards the highest mountains possible. Obviously he wanted a challenge and he put on quite a display as we roared off with engines straining and then rapidly swerving from side to side in a series of stomach twisting maneuvers. In spite of his best attempts to prune the tree tops, somehow, we did manage to break away from gravity and climb through the thin air - right into the centre of a huge cyclone.
    the morning news told all about the massive cyclone that was currently devastating Bangladesh, but I did not know then that we would be flying right into it. With massive thunderclouds all around us the plane tossed violently from side to side as the pilot warned that "the drinks service will be suspended". He also announced that we would be landing for a refuelling stop in Dakar !

    Nobody told us about that in the itinerary. As we dropped to a landing our views of Bangladesh revealed a country almost completely under water, in fact the whole place looked like a huge swamp. Dropping lower the rain started sheeting across the window beside me. Although we did not have mountains to consider I just hoped the pilot's windscreen wipers were in good order. With a few side shifts the plane did manage to crab its way onto the runway but then had to dramatically execute a high speed left hand turn when a tractor appeared on the runway in front of us. I guess that probably happens all the time here but it did convince me that we would NEVER conduct a Ghostriders Bangladesh ride !!!!!

    After a 45 min stop and a bellyfull of fuel the plane took off again for a rough 2 hour flight to Bangkok. The towering cloud and storm formations all around us were quite spectacular and the Drukair plane seemed to be taking the battering in its stride. Needless to say we did land safely and are now resting in our hotel in Bangkok. Tomorrow our next adventure begins when we confront the searing heat of Thailand to begin our first Thailand ride.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by BikeThe World on Two Wheels

    Climb to the Tigers Nest

    15 mai 2013, Bhoutan

    There is one building that is undoubtedly the most famous and most photographed structure in Bhutan. Precariously perched high above the valley on the outskirts of Paro, this amazing building is approximately 900 metres higher than the valley floor. If you want to visit the Tiger's Nest, there is no alternative other than to climb the very steep and rocky path from the car park at the base of the cliff. I can tell you now that it is hard work to reach the top, but the effort is surely worth it.

    After our final full day in Bhutan, we were treated to a cultural show back at our hotel in the evening. The Bhutanese are fiercely proud of their country, and rightly so. We adored our time there and were very impressed at the intelligence and dignity of the people.    En savoir plus

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    Back to Paro

    14 mai 2013, Bhoutan

    Our time spent in the Phobjika Valley will certainly rate as the highlight of the trip. The electricity failed soon after our arrival (I gather this is a regular occurrence here) but it did not affect our enjoyment at all. The place was just so peaceful and beautiful that we did not need Internet and TV or any other trappings to enjoy ourselves. Yesterday we set off on a hike along the Valley and marveled at the scenes that unfolded before us as we walked along. At one point we came across a group of people building a large new home - not a power tool in sight but the workmanship was superb. While carpenters were busy hand shaping huge wooden beams the women were busy tamping down the earth in the packed earth walls. It was fascinating to see the way the whole village worked together to build the new house. Apparently this is what they do for each new married couple.

    This morning our time in the valley reluctantly came to an end as we packed our bags and rode the bus back up to the top of the 3300 m pass. We then got back on the bikes for the longest and most exhilerating downhill you could imagine. It was approx 52 km long and a vertical drop of just over 2000 metres. It was a pity that the road surface was appalling for most of the way. The surface was full of potholes and in places it has disappeared altogether. In several locations large landslides had almost completely blocked the roadway and new slips looked about to occur at any minute. Once again we had superb weather for the ride.
    The weather in Bhutan can be very fickle to say the least, but for the duration of our stay we have not had a single day when it rained during a ride or walk ! I liked to think that was something top do with the spirit of Camelot.

    When we finally ran of downhill riding on the outskirts of Panukha we bade farewell to our bikes for the final time. The bikes were Trek 4300 MTB bikes and they had taken a huge beating but had emerged unscathed through the trip. The rest of the long return journey to Paro was done in the bus and this gave us a final chance to see the roads that we had previously ridden along.

    We arrived back at hotel in Paro soon after 4 pm. Later in the evening we said our final farewell and thanks to our truck driver. Since we will not be using the bikes any longer, he will now return to Thimpu where he lives. Tomorrow we will taking the difficult climb up to the Tiger's Nest, one of Bhutan's most venerated places and probably the most photographed site in Bhutan.    En savoir plus

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    The Phobjika Valley

    13 mai 2013, Bhoutan

    I know I have been describing Bhutan as Shandri La since we arrived here 8 days ago. At the time we all thought that to be accurate, however I now know better for we have just returned from 3 days in the true Shangri La - an incredible magical valley hiiden high in the Himalaya, remote even by Bhutanese standards. Before I tell you any more about that magic valley I should fill you in on some of what we have been doing in the past few days.

    We rode out of Thimpu up to the rowering Dochula Pass at 3150 m. It was steep uphill all the way and the road was crumbling into dust for much of the way. In spite of this it was quite an achievement when we finally rolled into the stupa that marks the summit. Here were thousands of brightly coloured prayer flags flapping in the breeze. We spent some time to soak up the atmosphere before remounting the bikes for the hair raising and bone shattering 40 km descent to Punakha. With large trucks apperaing round the bends without warning it certainly paid to keep your concentration or else your ride could quickly have degenerated into a catastrophe. Fortunately we all made it safely to the bottom - battered but in high spirits.

    After a couple of days exploring the region around Punakha we climbed aboard the bus for the long slog up to the Lawala Pass (3300 metres). At the summit we were met by the sight of dozens of Yaks grazing in the rich pastures. These large beasts can only live at high altitudes and it was the first glimpse we had seen of them in Bhutan. This really made us feel like we were on the verge of another page in our unfolding adventure. It was then back on the bikes for the beautiful descent into the Phobijka Valley. This is world renowned for being the home to the Black Necked Crane. It did not take long for us to fall under the spel of this beautiful valley. In all my travels I doubt that I have ever seen a place just so spellbinding. It really was as if we had left time behind to venture into another world.

    As we climbed up the steep drive to our hotel we were faced with a building that looked like a storybook magic castle. The inside was just as mesmerising and the views from the dining room windows were breathtaking. It took in a full 180 degrees panorama and the valley looked like a huge green and fertile basin surrounded by towering mountains all around. Dotted throughout were dozens of houses, each one looking like a highly decorated dolls house. I could have just sat and admired the view for hours since I knew that no amount of photos would ever do it justice. This was about as remote as we were ever going to be. Since there was only one narrow road into this place I suspect that most would not have worried if the road had been blocked and we had been forced to stay a few days longer.

    To be continued    En savoir plus

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    Over the Lawala Pass to Gangtey

    12 mai 2013, Bhoutan

    Punakha, Bhutan - Sunday May 12th

    Happy Mothers' Day to all the mothers back there in Australia !!

    Even though I have described Bhutan as a veritable Shangri La in the Himalayas there is one aspect of its way of life that is less than perfect. Because of their great resepect for all livining things there is a huge population of wandering dogs that hang around all the places where people live. These dogs do not belong to anyone in particular but are obviously used to being fed by those nearby. During the daytime they mostly lie in the sun sleeping peacefully and it is not uncommon to see a dozen or more just dozing together. They are certainly not wild or aggressive, on the contrary they seem as gentle as the people that feed them. Sometimes they will cotton onto us and follow us along on our bikes, probably hoping that we will give them something to eat.

    In Australia the problem would be tackled by rounding them all up and probably destroying them. That would of course never happen here so they go on breeding exponentially. It is only after dark that this sleepy mass of dogs decide to all wake up and start up a nocturnal chorus of biblical proportions. In this town in particular you are serenaded by dozens of dogs all joining in some sort of Himalayan wailing and whining. Each dog seems to know its part and they all play their own part with incredible vigor. What a caucophony !!!! No wonder some books recommend bringing along ear plugs for sleeping. Of course, apart from the dogs, the nights are blissfully peaceful. While I am writing this another huge chorus of dogs has just begun a short distance from this hotel. It will continue for several minutes and then just as suddenly they all stop at the same instant. Weird.

    Today we leave Punakha and head back up into the mountains. Within a few hours we will be back up at 3400 metres and a completely different climate. Down here it is much warmer and more humid, that's why it is used as the winter capital. When we are back up over 3000 metres we can say goodbye to the humidity and of course it will be much cooler. As far as the weather we have experienced so far, it has been very comfortable. I suspect that the max temperature during the day would be mid 20s, although the sun does have a strong burn factor in the thin air. At night it is probably about 15C. I have had no need for the thermals that I brought all the way from Australia with me.

    Last night we had a birthday party for Gonny Rundell (one of our riders). We even managed to get a beautiful chocolate birthday cake for her. I suspect it will be birthday she will long remember.

    Once we leave Punakha we will have no access to the Internet for several days. so this will be my final update until we get back to Paro.    En savoir plus

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    Cycling the Giant Bridge

    11 mai 2013, Bhoutan

    Panukha, Bhutan Sat May 11th

    The spirit of Camelot is still alive and well here. We were able to complete our long day's ride yesterday in fine and mostly sunny conditions. It was not until we were securely at our hotel that the sky darkened with a lovely Himalayan thunderstorm with torrential rain, lightning and thunder. The rain persisted until nearly midnight but when we awoke in the morning the skies were clear again.

    We rode a short distance along the banks of a glorious white water river to the most beautiful Dzong we have yet seen. Situated right above the river bank, the imposing structure was fronted by a row of huge jacaranda trees, all in full bloom with a cloak of brilliant purple flowers. The fallen petals also made a frgrant floral carpet under our feet as we approached the front entrance. In Bhutan, Dzongs serve a dual purpose as seats of government and also as monasteries/temples.

    Once inside the structure the inner courtyard offered a cool and peaceful sanctuary from the outside world. All the timber work was covered with the most intricate paintwork and the cooing doves added to the general serenity of the place. We spent some time exploring this exquisite building and we were reminded again of just how few tourists ever travel to Bhutan. In Europe such a place would be crammed with thousands of jostling tourists, all clicking on their cameras, playing with their phones, smoking cigarettes and following someone with a red flag on a stick. Here we had the place to ourselves and it was heavenly.

    The highlight of the ride to the Dzong had been the crossing of the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan. At 210 metres long and towering high above the turbulent waters far below, it certainly was a sight to behold. Some of us decided to ride our bikes across the bridge and, while it was not quite as confronting as abseiling from the summit of Table Mountain, it was certainly enough to get the adrenaline pumping.On the return ride we followed the sealed road rather the muddy track we had followed on the outward ride. The midday sun was hot and burning and we were glad to reach the cool shade of a local restaurant where we stopped for lunch. Now that I am safely back at the hotel it is looking like the rain is about to start again. How is that for timing ?    En savoir plus

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    Ride to Punakha

    10 mai 2013, Bhoutan

    This morning we left Thimpu on the next leg of our adventure (or should I say wheel of our adventure ?). The first few kilometres were undulating and then we hit the main challenge of the day - to ride up and over a 3200 metre pass. The climb went on and on and the road surface was full of ruts and potholes making it even worse than a dirt road. A few riders gave up early and ended up in the following bus but 6 of us persevered all the way to the summit. It was a pity that the low lying cloud did not part long enough for us to see the view which we were told is absolutely incredible.

    After lunch we then embarked on the longest and most exhilerating descent I have ever done. It just went on and on and on, eventually dropping over 2000 metres to Punakha. The road was great for some of the descent inviting some of our riders to take ridiculous risks, accompanied by hoots of exhileration. Then it degenerated into a dog track, shared with a succession of big Tata trucks belching smoke in our faces. When we finally arrived at our hotel late in the afternoon we were all high on endorphins and many said it was the best day's riding they have ever had.

    Tomorrow will be an easier day (we hope).    En savoir plus

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    Climbing Higher

    9 mai 2013, Bhoutan

    Yesterday we rode from Paro to Thimpu. It was an undulating route and the thin air combined with the frequent climbs made the ride quite challenging. By the time we arrived at Thimpu we were relieved when we finally reached our hotel.
    Thimpu is the capital city of Bhutan and the seat of government for 6 months of the year. There appears to be a building boom in progress with dozens of large new buildings unde construction everywhere you look. Our hotel (The Riverview Hotel - find it on the Internet) has a great vantage point down to the rapidly flowing river and across to the city on the opposite side.

    In the afternoon we went to see the ceremonial lowering of the flag at the main Dzong (seat of government). It is also where the king has his office and his modest palace. I thought that he might have heard that the Ghostriders were in town and come to say hello, but there was no sign of him.

    This morning we climbed back on the bikes for a ride higher into the mountains. It had a few really gut busting climbs at around 12 to 15% which had everyone searching for the lowest possible granny gear while trying to grab lungful's of air.
    At one point we had to stop because the army was practising with large calibre weapons. It was almost the first time that the Ghostriders had found themselves in a war zone. The sound of the explosions booming through the mountains was quite impressive. At the summit of the climb, we left the bikes and climbed (staggered) up the side of a cliff face to a temple perched on the very top of a mountain. The views from the top made all the effort worthwhile and the downhill slide was easier than the going up. After a picnic lunch and game of Bhutanese darts in the sunshine we returned to our hotel - tired but happy.

    Our adventure will continue tomorrow with the longest ride of the trip. How will we fare ? Time will tell, I guess.    En savoir plus

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    Ride to Thimpu

    8 mai 2013, Bhoutan

    Today we cycled from Paro to Thimpu, the capital city of Bhutan. The scenery along the way was delightful with lots of highly decorated houses dotted over the mountainsides. The road was interesting and had lots of climbs and descents. It was also interesting to see the way that local drivers choose to pass in the most dangerous places. Bhutanese road signs are always very polite - some examples "Please be careful of shooting rocks" followed by another sign 100 metres further on "Thank You". Other equally polite road signs warn of the dangers of speeding or using a mobile phone while driving. The people here are very respectful of their King, their country and the law.

    The weather started out a little cool and drizzly but the clouds soon lifted and we were able to do most of the ride in warm sunshine. I was reminded of those words about Camelot and the rain "never coming till after sundown". We are now safely in the hotel in Thimpu and a big Himalayan thunderstorm is bearing down on Thimpu. The thunder is rolling down the valley and echoing through the mountains. No wonder the name "Bhutan" means "Land of the Thunder Dragon".

    All our Ghostriders look terrific in their matching yellow jerseys and I am sure that we have been noticed everywhere we have been. All have agreed that the trip has already exceeded their expectations (and it''s only day 3).    En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by BikeThe World on Two Wheels

    Exploring Paro by Bike

    7 mai 2013, Bhoutan

    Today we had the opportunity to climb on our bikes and test our legs by riding around the city of Paro and nearby hills.

    Here is my diary entry:

    I am sitting in our hotel in Paro on our second day in Bhutan, thinking that I have fallen in love. Yep fallen in love with this amazing little country. Before we arrived we all had preconceptions of what we were going to find but these have been swept away in a few short hours. It is certainly different to any previous country I have ever travelled through. In some respects we all find ourselves shaking our heads in disbelief at the sights that await us around every corner. I suspected that is would be similar to nearby Nepal - I could not have been more wrong. It is little wonder that the Bhutanese people have fought so hard to maintain their wonderful culture and way of life.En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by BikeThe World on Two Wheels

    A Very Scary Landing in Bhutan

    6 mai 2013, Bhoutan

    It was a very early start (and very little sleep) as we gathered back at Bangkok Airport at 4 am for the early flight to Paro Airport in Bhutan. There was only airline that was equipped for landings at the tiny airport situated high in the Himalayas, and only around 7 pilots who were certified for the very tricky landing.

    And so began my first flight with Druk Airlines (aka Royal Bhutan). I had heard all about how dangerous the landing at Paro Airport was, and I have to admit that I was experiencing some anxiety as we flew closer and closer to the towering mountains.

    As the plane tilted and turned, seemingly almost touching the ridges, all the passengers were holding their collective breaths. Eventually I caught my first glimpse of the tiny landing strip and wondered just how hard the pilot would have to work to land the plane safely.

    The final couple of minutes of the flight were particularly hair raising as we narrowly missed the houses perched on the top of the final ridge. Then we dropped sharpy and aimed straight for the runway. Once the wheels touched, it was a full brake power screaming stop. But at least we were safely on the ground. So far, so good I thought.

    We climbed down the stairs from the plane and walked across the tarmac to the small terminal building. Fortunately our luggage also made the journey safely, and soon we were all sitting in a bus and heading towards our first hotel.

    There was not much conversation as we all had our faces glued to the windows, mesmerized by the unfamiliar sights that were all around us. Bhutanese people still nearly all wear the traditional costume of a loosely fitting tunic, with long sleeves and knee high socks. It was a sight we were to see continually over the next ten days.

    Since our flight had arrived before noon, we had the afternoon free to explore the city of Paro. . We even got to visit your first dzong. A dzong is a Bhutanese fortress which were constructed at strategic locations throughout the country. They contain both temple and administrative offices of the district government.

    Almost every town that we stayed in on the trip had a dzong and the local governments still work within their grand walls. Dzong are built with high sloping walls, inside we found detailed woodwork and courtyards. The main dzong in Paro was constructed in the 15th century and still houses the administrative offices of Paro.

    What was once the watchtower for the dzong is now the national museum and this was our next stop. The museum holds a great collection of artefacts from Bhutanese history.

    The Bhutanese Buddhist belief is full of gods, demons, saints, historical figures and kings. It was a fascinating introduction to the country, but it had been a very long day and I was so glad to finally hit the bed.

    My diary entry reads:
    We have now had a few hours to explore Paro and the more we see the more we fell in love with this place. It is just so magical that it is like we have left the earth and landed on another planet. The people have been so welcoming that we immediately felt at home, the streets are clean, the buildings are beautiful and the valley is breathtaking. I guess the fact that we are at an altitude of 2200 m also has something to do with the lack of breath. This afternoon we tried out our bikes for the first time and tomorrow we start riding - that will be the first big test.    En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Home Again

    16 octobre 2012, Australie ⋅ 17 °C

    Emerald, 17th Oct.
    I arrived back in Melbourne yesterday after 6 weeks away. It's always a relief to touchdown at Tullamarine and almost as big a relief when you see your luggage arrive at the carousal and know that it also made the journey home safely. After almost 48 hours of transit, I was in a bit of a zombie state, but have now had a good night's sleep in my own bed and feel almost human again. It really was an amazing trip, and I was so privileged to have shared it with such a close and supportive group of friends.

    Our next planned adventure will take place in May 2013 when we head off to Bhutan on our "Bhutan by Bike" adventure.    En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Paris - Day 4

    13 octobre 2012, France ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Montmartre (Paris) - Sat 13th Oct.
    This is my second last day in Paris and I have no set plans on what to do. I think I will just head off on foot and see where my feet take me. Since most of Paris (apart from the Butte Montmartre) is very flat, the walking is easy and it is the perfect way to observe Parisians going about their everyday lives. They are an interesting people, full of animation and humour.
    They love to conduct their conversations at the tops of their voices. Some people seem to think that the French can be rude and impatient with visitors.
    This has never been my experience as I have only been shown friendliness and warmth wherever I have gone. The staff at my little 2 star hotel are very helpful and love it when i try to speak French. I think the secret is that you get what you give. If you are open and interested, you will always bring out the best in people. A couple of pics of the grandchildren doesn't hurt either.

    This has been quite a long trip and I am starting to look forward to being back in Melbourne with my family, not looking forward to the long flights home though.    En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Paris - A Meeting with Bruce Willis

    11 octobre 2012, France ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Right in the centre of Paris, there are two islands in the middle of the Seine. These are the Ile de la Cite and the Ile St Louis. Real estate on these islands is probably some of the most expensive in the world, so you never know who you might bump into when you are walking the streets of these islands of privilege.

    While walking the Ile St Louis, I noticed a little cluster of people up ahead. Being a nosy person, I decided to join the crowd to see what was happening. It turned out that a film was being shot and the lead actor was none other than Bruce Willis. Sure enough, there he was standing just a few metres away from me.

    Even more surprising was the fact that there was not just one Bruce Willis, there were two of them. His stunt double was also in the scene too, presumably to protect the real Bruce Willis from doing anyone that might give him a bruise. The film they were shooting was Red 2. I don't know much about the story, but it must involve fast cars and big guns, because they were both in the scene.

    It was an interesting start to the day, but Paris is always like that. You just never know what is about to happen around the next street corner.

    Later in the day I caught the train out to the famous Palace of Versailles. The huge and very opulent palace gives some idea of how a King can waste the resources of an entire nation, just to satisfy their own pride and greed. I actually found the place a little sad.    En savoir plus

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Hello Paris - Where am I ?

    10 octobre 2012, France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After my time in Turkey and Greece, I thought that it would be good to have a few days of quality time relaxing in one of my favourite cities - Paris.

    I left Athens late in the evening via Aegean Airlines and landed in Paris. I should have read my air ticket more carefully. I assumed that we were landing at Charles de Gaulle Airport, and had prebooked (and paid for) an airport transfer to my hotel. It would make life simple I thought. I was wrong.

    After leaving the plane and clearing customs I emerged into the airport lounge. Somehow nothing looked familiar. And it wasn't. In fact it wasn't even Charles de Gaulle Airport ! We had landed at one of Paris's other airports - Orly.

    Although somewhere there was a driver waiting for me, it certainly wasn't at this location. Since it was now getting late, I needed to rapidly make other arrangements to get me to my hotel in Montmartre. After a few enquiries, I managed to drag my luggage onto to a bus that was heading into central Paris. At least we were heading in the right direction.

    After arrival in Paris central, I found a metro that would get me to within walking distance of the hotel. I was very, very grateful when I was finally able to stagger into my hotel and settle into the room for the night. It had turned out to be much complicated that originally intended, but it did serve to remind me that there is usually always a solution to every problem, provided you don't panic.

    I now had a few days to walk, explore and walk some more. I was looking forward to finally having some time alone.    En savoir plus

  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Back to Athens

    9 octobre 2012, Grèce ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Santorini Island Tuesday Oct 9th.

    This is our final day on Santorini, after which our group will disperse with most heading back to Australia. After 5 weeks together in Turkey and Greece we have shared some unforgettable adventures together and I am sure that it will be an experience that we will all cherish for the rest of our lives.

    Yesterday I took a short cruise to the centre of the caldera to visit the volcano. This is a bleak rocky island with multiple craters, some of which are still steaming out rotten egg gas and steam. When you look back from the volcano to Santorini you can still see the unmistakable signs of the massive explosion that rocked this place in 1500 BC. Not only did it obliterate most of the island and created a huge deepwater harbour, but is also created a massive 200 m tsunami that destroyed most life on Crete at the time. Since that massive detonation there have been numerous smaller eruptions, the last one in 1950. In recent months there has been growing activity under the volcano and the magma chamber has greatly enlarged, raising the ground level by about 20cm. There has also been a series of small earthquakes in the region, possibly also heralding that all is not well underground.

    On the volcano itself there are several remote monitering stations. These are hopefully there to provide an early warning should a new eruption become imminent, in which case an immediate evacuation of Santorini would take place.

    While we were there, we observed yet more large cruise ships repeat the daily routine of disgorging and reabsorbing their boatloads of passengers to the shore. It is hard to believe that in a couple of weeks all this will shut down. We are now nearing the end of the tourist season and, by the end of October, just about everything on the island shuts down. I was talking to the owner of our hotel, and she told me that they close the hotel and return to another house they own in Athens for the next few months. This would still be a fantastic place in the cooler season (it never gets cold here) so I don't understand why people only choose to come in the hot and crowded summer months. Since we were at the end of the season it was quieter and an ideal time to come.

    Last night we wandered along the clifftop walkway and watched spellbound at the beautiful lights of Thira scattered all along the steep cliffsides. It was a delightful way to end our Santorini interlude.

    We heard on the news that Athens is likely to be in turmoil when we return, due to a visit by the German chancellor Angela Merkel. The streets will be full of riot police and rooftop snipers. We just hope it does not close the airport. I suppose this is just another adventure for the Ghostriders and I will just have to see what happens. Several times in the past I have found myself in war zones and in the middle of riots, but I have found that if you use common sense and stay clear of the trouble areas there is usually little to fear.

    After I leave Athens, I will be in Paris for a few days before taking the long journey back to Australia. While in Paris I will be finalising some arrangements for our 2013 France Adventure.    En savoir plus

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  • The World on Two Wheels2012 Greece and FranceThe World on Two Wheels

    Santorini - Day 3

    8 octobre 2012, Grèce ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    In around 1600 BC a massive volcanic explosion created the massive caldera that is the main feature of modern Santorini. The remains of the volcano are still active and can be visited via a short cruise from Santorini.

    I decided to risk being blown to smithereens by travelling out to see the volcano at close quarters. It is still a smelly and quite active geological location, but the cruise did give me a chance to view Santorini from a different perspective.

    Fortunately it did not stage an eruption was I was there.    En savoir plus

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