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2024 Epic Elbe Adventure
  • The World on Two Wheels
ago – ott 2024

2024 Epic Elbe Adventure

Our plan for this ride is simple - ride from Hamburg to Vienna, following the Elbe, Vltava and Danube Rivers. The 1400 km ride will take us across Germany, Czechia and Austria. Will our team of 20 geriatric riders make the distance ? Time will tell. Leggi altro
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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels
    1

    No Room in Riesa

    14 settembre 2024, Germania ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    The weather bureau promised us another cold day, albeit slightly warmer than yesterday. We were also assured that rain would not affect our ride, even though it had obviously rained steadily throughout the night.

    The day began with yet another severe reprimand from the German staff at our hotel. Our group seems to have perfected to skill of doing absolutely everything that is verboten. This morning it was my turn to be publicly castigated for having the temerity to sit at the "wrong" table for breakfast. I felt like a naughty schoolboy as I bundled up my plate of scrambled eggs and my little glass of orange juice and trundled all the way to the far end of the building. I found out later that I had also taken the wrong orange juice. I do not think we made a good impression, especially as the Iron Lady found herself having to abuse just about everyone in our team for one transgression or another.

    At least the ride got underway on time, and we were pleased to find that the tailwind was even stronger than yesterday. At times we almost had to ride with the brakes on to stop us going too fast. (I did say "almost").

    Although the ride was great fun, the lack of coffee stops constituted a serious challenge to our will power. Time and time again we approached a town with high hopes that there would be at least some sort of coffee shop. Unfortunately, on every occasion we were left with nothing but disappointment. There was no coffee, there was no cake, there was nothing at all - all day.

    The biggest challenge of the ride came when we calmly rode around a fallen detour sign and continued along a levee bank. About 500 m later we found ourselves blocked by a security fence and some sort of construction site. We could have turned back and admitted defeat, but we are the Ghostriders and are a mischievous and resourceful bunch.

    It did not take much force to dismantle the security fence and venture into the construction zone. Fortunately, it was a Saturday, and no one was on duty. The biggest problem was that the overnight rain had converted the place into a quagmire. We skidded and sloshed through the mud, and generally acted like silly kids.

    Eventually we emerged on the far side and proceeded to try to remove the caked mud that was all over our shoes and bikes. It might have been quicker to retrace our steps, but it certainly would not have been as much fun.

    We had one final chance to find some coffee at the Penny Supermarket on the outskirts of Riesa. Although the sign clearly said that the Bakery section would be open till 4 pm, that obviously did not apply today. The place was locked up tight.

    Thus, we continued to Riesa in a somewhat forlorn state. Our hotel for tonight is the impressive Mercure Hotel, however when I arrived at the reception desk, everyone else had a room reserved for them, except me. My name was not even on the list.

    For a while it looked like I was going to have to sleep outside with the bikes, but a couple of calls to Ruckenwind sorted out the confusion and I ended up with a nice room on the fourth floor. I even have a nice view down to the Elbe River.

    Tomorrow, we complete Stage 11 of our mammoth ride and reach the major pitstop of Dresden. This officially denotes the half way point of our ride, and we are to be rewarded with not just one rest day, but two. Everyone is eagerly looking forward to that.    Leggi altro

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    Who Opened the Elbe Floodgates ?

    16 settembre 2024, Germania ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    One criticism that can never be levelled against a Ghostrider Overseas Adventure is that they are "too boring". To the absolute contrary, our Epic Elbe Ride looks like being the most eventful yet. Every day so far, we have had some unique challenge or other. The last twenty-four hours have been the most exciting so far.

    We had already been warned that our arrival into Dresden would be impacted by the running of a huge international Biathlon Event. Actually it would be more accurate to say the "skating" of a huge Biathlon, since the participants do not run at all, they ski along on roller blades and stop every so often to shoot at targets.

    We knew how to accommodate the likely disruption of the Biathlon. All we had to do was leave Riesa early and arrive in Dresden by around noon. That part was simple. What was not so simple was the growing challenge posed by the threat of widespread flooding all over central Europe.

    The past two days had been filled with news about the devastating flooding caused by torrential rain over the Czech Republic, Austria and Romania. When we went to bed on Saturday night, the Elbe looked pretty benign, however we were surprised and alarmed to see that it had risen dramatically during the night.

    The normally well behaved river had probably doubled in flow and was now lapping right at the edge of the bike path. We had no idea how much of the route would be impacted by this development. At least the wind was still blowing at our backs, so the 56 km ride would not be much of a physical challenge. The floods however could be an entirely different matter.

    As soon as we left Riesa we were riding with the Elbe close on our left hand side. At times the bike path was almost under water, and then we turned a corner and saw our way apparently blocked by a large mass of water. We stopped at the edge and considered our options. We could turn back and possibly find another way through, or we could risk our bikes and our lives by going ahead.

    "What do you think ?" I asked Ken for his advice. He replied that it "did not look too deep" and that we could ride through it. He was wrong on the first point, but right on the second. It actually was quite deep, probably up to our axles. Certainly, enough to saturate our shoes. In such situations, you cannot stop or hesitate, you just have to keep riding. And that is what we did. After a few minutes the entire peloton emerged relatively unscathed on the other side. Well, that was another challenge faced and overcome. I just hoped that our ebikes would not suffer mortal damage as a result.

    As if the Biathlon and the floods were not enough newsworthy events, we had also just heard word that one of the major bridges in Dresden had collapsed during the night, I am not joking. The entire bridge had fallen down at 3 am in the morning. Wherever we go the Ghostriders seem to be right in the middle of the action.

    We also encountered another serious flood over the bike path a little further on, and this time common sense prevailed and we took a detour along the road. The rest of the morning was spent with brisk riding and meant that we arrived in Dresden before the predicted rain.

    The second half of the ride was also notable for the change in the terrain along the way. Gone are the huge flat flood plains, and we now started to see the first towering cliffs that will become a feature of the next part of the ride.
     
    When we rode into Dresden, the entire town was obviously out in force to watch the Biathlon, but we were more interested in checking into our luxurious Maritim Hotel and staying dry. This hotel was easily the fanciest place we have stayed in so far and will probably set the high mark for the entire trip. I had stayed here previously back in 2012, so I did have an idea what to expect.

    About 6 pm I was sitting in my room, struggling to keep my eyes open, when my attention was grabbed by a loud warning that was piped into every room through the PA system. Since it was all in German, I had no idea whether I should be panicking or not. Fortunately it was followed up by an English translation, instructing everyone to remove their vehicles immediately from the garage. Apparently they were about to activate the emergency flood barriers to stop the Elbe flooding the garage. This gets more and more exciting with every minute.

    What followed was a massive exodus of people from every room. The lifts were jammed, The staff at the desk were overwhelmed by a line of people asking questions. I wondered if ebikes would float or sink if the garage filled with water.

    Eventually we were assured that our bikes will be safe. It turned our to be a miracle of planning that we now have two rest days here. Hopefully that might give some time for the flood waters to recede a little before we resume riding on Wednesday.    Leggi altro

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    A Drizzly Day in Dresden

    16 settembre 2024, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Before the Second World War, the city of Dresden was regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. It's combination of medieval buildings and priceless works of art and historical items was hard to match anywhere.

    That all came to a tragic and abrupt end in mid February 1945. The war was approaching the final end game. Russian troops were rapidly advancing from the east and massive allied bombing raids were progressively reducing entire cities to rubble.

    Up till then Dresden had been largely spared large scale bombing, but over a period of 2 days, over 1000 bombers dropped thousands of tons of incendiary and explosive bombs on the city. All pretense of only attacking military targets was long forgotten. The main aim now was to destroy the morale of the German people.

    The old timbered buildings in the centre of the city created a firestorm so intense that it resembled a nuclear explosion. Almost every building in the city was converted to ruins. No one knows exactly how many perished, but it was in the tens of thousands. The exact total was difficult to estimate because of the large number of refugees from the east that had flooded the city.

    In the morning after the bombing, charred bodies were piled high in the streets and had to be buried in mass graves. Although the people of the city initially thought that their beloved Frauenkirche (Lady's Church) had survived the onslaught, it collapsed a few hours later. It was not rebuilt until 2005.

    I spent the morning walking around the city in light drizzle, watching the spectacle of the floodwaters. Although the water is well over the banks of the Elbe, apparently it looks like it has peaked, and the authorities are hoping it may start to recede. We hope so too.    Leggi altro

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    Oh Dear, Dresden Bridge has Fallen Down

    16 settembre 2024, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I know that damage and drama seem to follow the Ghostriders wherever they go, but here is something that definitely wasn't our fault.

    A couple of days ago, one of the major bridges over the Elbe at Dresden fell down in the middle of the night. I am not sure who or what was responsible, but it certainly makes for a forlorn sight, especially in the middle of a flood.Leggi altro

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    Thwarted in Dresden

    17 settembre 2024, Germania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It is never pleasant to be thwarted. During the first two weeks of our Epic Ride we had faced all sorts of challenges, and somehow managed to overcome every one. That is, until now.

    The inspiration for this ride was the Elbe River, one of the major rivers of Europe. So far the Elbe has been our constant companion for over 630 km of cycling. Now it has changed dramatically from being a friend to a foe.

    Central Europe has been battered by torrential rains for the past several days, and all that water had to go somewhere. That somewhere was the Elbe.

    I had never had personal experience with a major flood before, and I would have to say that it is both impressive and frightening in equal measure. I think that we were all surprised how quickly nature can turn a placid waterway into a swollen torrent of water.

    Although we thought that the peak might have been reached yesterday, it was clear to see when we awoke this morning that the river had risen at least another 50 cm, swallowing up more of the surrounding paths and roads.

    The Elbe Radweg (bike path) has now been officially closed. That puts a temporary full stop to our plans to continue along the Elbe and Vltava Rivers to Prague. Plans were hastily redrafted and our new plan is to stay in Dresden until Saturday, after which we will be bussed to Prague to continue our ride from there.

    Although this is rather disappointing, there are certainly worse places to be trapped for a few days, and our hotel is positively sumptuous. Oh well, that happens sometimes. We will certainly all have something to talk about for years to come.

    At least the sunshine returned today, making Dresden an entirely different city. With the sunshine and higher temperatures, the humidity soared. The outdoor cafes were filled, and the spirit of gloom that permeated the place for the past couple of days seems to have lifted.

    I went out on another long walk today, but discovered that my phone battery was flat. That meant I could not take many pictures. That was not entirely a bad thing as it meant that I could practice one of my favourite pastimes - people watching.

    I found a nice chair in the shade by the riverside, got out my kindle and enjoyed a lovely time. A nearby accordionist with a lovely white dog sitting at his feet added some enjoyable audio atmosphere to my sojourn.

    It's a tough life, but someone's got to do it.    Leggi altro

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    Dresden by Night

    17 settembre 2024, Germania ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    I have just returned to my hotel after enjoying a magical walk around the city. Now that the rain has gone, the city has come back to life with all the outdoor cafes open again. On just about every street corner there were buskers - one playing a violin, another playing classical guitar. There were even a couple of would-be opera singers hitting the high notes.

    It was a lovely finish to a most enjoyable day    Leggi altro

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    Postcard from Dresden

    18 settembre 2024, Germania ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    According to my calculations we are now up to day 4 of our planned 2 day stay in Dresden. Although this is not exactly how this part of the trip was planned, I think we have now all learned to embrace the change and enjoy the opportunities we have been given.

    Now that the rain has stopped and summer has returned, we can see just how beautiful the city is. With a population of around 600,000 people, it is large enough to offer all the services of a major city, without the disadvantages of larger cities like Melbourne,

    One feature of the central city which is immediately obvious is the almost complete lack of cars. Even in the middle of the day, the streets are virtually empty of vehicles, apart from the occasional taxi and the succession of silent, modern trams that slide past every few minutes. It really is a delightful contrast to Melbourne's never ending car bedlam.

    When talking to the bright young concierge at the front desk of our hotel, he explained that, not only does he not own a car, he doesn't even have a drivers' license. "There is no need for a car here", he explained, "the public transport works so well".

    The other feature of the central city is that most of the stately buildings are stained black. This is not because of their great age, since most of them were built after the destruction of the city in 1945. It is also not because of pollution. It is because they are constructed of sandstone, and the soft stone is commonly affected by a black surface mould. Because the stone is very soft, it also cannot be cleaned by pressure washing, as that would damage the surface.

    I am starting to learn my way around the city a little better with each passing day. Today I thought it was time to cross one of the bridges (not the fallen down one) and explore some of the right bank. This appears to be home to the more modern and commercial parts of the city, and lacks the charm of the left bank.

    Somewhat surprisingly there is a well known Australian restaurant in the centre of Dresden, called Ayers Rock. I had seen this place on my previous visit to the city and thought that maybe it would be a good spot for a late lunch.

    The lunch certainly was good, but the young waitress certainly was not Australian. When I commented on this she replied "No one here is Australian". I reminded her that I was an Australian. "Then you are the only one", she replied.    Leggi altro

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    Dresden Day 5

    19 settembre 2024, Germania ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Since we arrived here just in time to watch the Elbe burst its banks in flood, life has evolved into some sort of daily ritual. For me, the day starts at 5.45 am when my alarm goes off. It sounds early, but most of the time I am awake before the alarm. It gives me time to catch up on emails and the news, before heading down to the expansive breakfast banquet.

    After breakfast, it is usually a walk along the riverside to see if the level has started to fall yet. Even though we haven't had a drop of rain for the past several days, the river still seems stubbornly stuck at the high water level. If anything, it may have even crept a few centimetres higher than it was yesterday.

    Although I did not have any set plans for the day, I found myself walking back towards the old city centre. Several others had paid a visit to the VW EV "factory", so I thought that it might prove interesting.

    To get there involved quite a long walk. This would not normally have been a challenge, but I am still having problem with my left heel. That meant a pain in my foot with every step.

    The so called factory is a futuristic place that looks like a super sixed car showroom. Inside was an array of the latest VW electric vehicles. I gather the place works like a one stop shop to order your car and then have it built to your own specifications,

    Behind a large glass wall there was some sort of car making going on, but it seemed to be at a glacial pace compared to the huge automated facilities I had seen before. This place must be a boutique manufacturer, as it can only produce 24 vehicles each day. Weird but true.

    After the long walk back to the hotel, it was time for dinner. Since some of the group were going to the opera (yes, I am not kidding), the hotel had arranged to serve us dinner at 5pm. We ended up having the whole restaurant to ourselves and the piano player. It is lovely to enjoy a bit of culture every now and again.    Leggi altro

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    A Day at Fort Konigstein

    20 settembre 2024, Germania ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Although our enforced stay in Dresden gave us some extra time to explore the city and its surrounds, I was a little disappointed that we would not get to ride the spectacular section of the Elbe upstream from Dresden. This is the section that is most famous for its towering, almost vertical sandstone cliffs. Today was our chance to partially address this omission.

    Leaving the hotel around 9 am, we formed a walking peloton to make our way to the nearby Dresden Mitte Railway Station. We then spent some time gathered round the ticket machine, trying to work out which ticket to buy. Most of us ended up paying 8 Euro 60 cents for our tickets, but Mei seemed to have found a way to get hers at a significant discount. She is like that.

    The trip to Konigstein took about 40 minutes, during which Mei entertained us with a nonstop commentary about everything inside and outside the carriage. It was only when the conductor came to check the tickets that we found out why her ticket was so cheap.

    "You have a children's ticket", the conductor told her. We thought that this might be worthy of a significant jail term, but the conductor was lenient and allowed her to purchase a new ticket for not much more than she could have paid at the station.

    When we arrived at Konigstein Station we climbed from the train to a small bus to transport us to the fort itself. You cannot appreciate just what a commanding position the fort occupies, until you see it yourself. It is little wonder that it was never conquered in battle, but it is a pure wonder how they managed to build the structure in the first place.

    The views from the fort are simply breathtaking, especially from the side that faces the Elbe River. We also noticed that, at least this far upstream, the river has passed its peak and has started to recede.

    After wondering the fort for a couple of hours, we were ready to make our way back to Dresden. At least we all got a glimpse of what this part of the river looks like.

    Tomorrow morning, we finally say goodbye to Dresden and make our way to Prague, where we will resume our original itinerary.    Leggi altro

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    From Dresden to Prague

    21 settembre 2024, Repubblica Ceca ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    It should have been a straightforward process. All we had to do was transport us and our 21 bikes from Dresden to Prague. Simples. What actually happened was a shambles.

    Although the bus arrived a little earlier than expected at the hotel in Dresden, I was rather concerned when I saw the size of the enclosed trailer that they had sent with it. Even at a casual glance, it was hard to see how 21 bikes would be able to fit inside. We soon found out the answer - they couldn't.

    It might have been easier to work out a solution if the driver spoke even a single word of English. He didn't. We discovered that he did not speak a word of German either. He did not even speak sign language! It was completely impossible to communicate with him.

    All he could was point at the bikes and shake his head. That certainly was not going to solve the problem. The only possible solution was to tackle the problem ourselves. I delegated our engineering squad (Ken, Paul, John , et al) to examine the problem and come up with some sort of answer. At that point any answer would do.

    The only possible solution was to dismantle the handlebars of every bike. For the next hour the engineers took to the bikes with a frenzy of activity, quickly converting them to a pile of nuts, bolts and cables held together with duct tape. It was quite a sad and ugly sight.

    The deconstructed bikes were finally all cobbled into the trailer, and we were finally able to go on our way. The story was however, far from finished.

    When we arrived at the hotel in Prague, the driver wanted the trailer emptied. This seemed very inefficient and unnecessary, as we will require another bus transfer out of Prague on Wednesday. The lack of any sort of language link, meant that I would have had more success talking to the statue at the hotel entrance, so unpack the bikes is what we did.

    The next 30 minutes were spent dragging the sad looking bikes from the trailer to the garage and piling them in some sort of bike cemetery in the corner. We had been assured that a representative from the bike company would be at the hotel at 5 pm and would be able to answer all our concerns. I eagerly looked forward to offloading a truckload of concerns when they arrived.

    As the appointed hour arrived, there was a group of us waiting in the hotel foyer, but no sign of anyone from the bike company. Over the next 45 minutes I made an uncountable number of phone calls trying to locate the elusive missing person. At one point I was told they were waiting in the "Green Saloon" at the hotel. The only problem was that the hotel does not have anything called or resembling a green saloon. This was rapidly degenerating into a complete farce.

    We finally tracked down the missing lady in the underground garage, assisting a small group of German riders. I explained who we were, and was rather disappointed that, although she spoke some English, it was marginal at best. This was not going to be easy.

    It got even worse when she thought that we were riding from Prague to Dresden. I tried to explain that we were riding the OPPOSITE direction, from Hamburg to Vienna. That seemed to be news to her. We even showed her our itinerary. She glanced at it, but did not really seem interested. By that time I was really over the whole process. I can only hope that they will have someone in their office on Monday who both speaks English, and also knows what we are here for.

    I have a feeling that the next few days will be rather challenging.    Leggi altro

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    Impressions of Prague

    22 settembre 2024, Repubblica Ceca ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    When I first visited Prague, back in 2011, my impressions were mixed. I could not make up my mind whether I liked the place or not. While the centre of the old city is certainly impressive. it is not a place that I could feel much affection for.

    For that reason, I was curious to see how I would feel about the place 13 years later. Don and I left the hotel early and went in search of the Metro Station we had been assured was "nearby". Our walk soon brought us into an interminable series of partially completed roadworks, railworks, footpath works and just about every other sort of project that could remain unfinished.

    We had stayed in the same hotel 13 years earlier, and I remembered that the very same roadworks were being done then. Thirteen years later they looked much the same.

    After climbing over and through piles of rubble and dodging huge holes in the ground, there was still no sign of the station. To the contrary, it looked like half the rail lines had been pulled out of the ground. We kept walking.

    The next stage of our own Pilgrim's Progress brought us into a series of derelict buildings, bridges and underpasses, where literally every square centimetre was covered with ugly graffiti. In all my travels I had never seen anything like it. It was ugly and confronting, and did not allow us to feel safe. That was a huge contrast to Dresden, where we felt safe walking day and night, and never witnessed this sort of urban decay. Dresden 1, Prague 0.

    Although we never did get to discover any Metro station, we did keep walking, all the way into the central city and the famous old city square. Although it was tiring in the warm sun, it did give us a good cross section of what the city was really like. Those who just catch a bus or tram into the centre never get to see this ugly side of the city.

    As we approached the square and the famous "astronomical clock", we could hear the growing tumult of hundreds (probably thousands) of tourists following their guides, and listening to their non stop prattle in a multitude of tongues.

    There is no denying that the buildings are beautiful, but the jam of people certainly was not. It reminded me what life on one of those huge cruise liners would be like. Give me the "road less travelled" every time.

    The most famous feature of the place is the astronomical clock. constructed back in 1410. When I did some homework about this 600 year old timepiece, I discovered that it is more like the proverbial "grandpa's axe" that had 7 new handles and 4 new heads. The clock has been rebuilt and replaced many times over the centuries, and for a long period had an electric motor !!!! For some years it was even replaced with an LED screen. Believe it or not.

    Since Don and I had arrived shortly before 11 am, we thought that at least we should wait and see the hourly performance. We found a seat in a nearby cafe and ordered a sweet while we waited. The crowds grew, And grew. And grew. It looked like the MCG on Grand Final Day, with every onlooker grabbing their phones and selfie sticks to record the event. It was really awful.

    The actual display was underwhelming, with two little doors opening and a couple of model apostles shuffling past. If the clock display was underwhelming, the bill we got from the cafe was not. To our horror the final amount was inflated by taxes and tips, so that it bore no resemblance to the amount stated on the menu. Dresden 2, Prague 0.

    By that time, we just wanted to get away from the jostling crowds before we suffered a lost eye due to an errant selfie stick. We made our way back to the hotel, once again traversing the sea of graffiti and rubbish all along the way. I was so happy to be back in the quiet sanctuary, and away from the madding crowds.    Leggi altro

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    A Beautiful Walk in the Park

    23 settembre 2024, Repubblica Ceca ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After yesterday's encounter with the overwhelming throng of tourists in the city centre, I think if I saw another tour guide with a coloured flag or umbrella, I would just have to scream out loud.

    Surely there must be some place in this city where I could just escape and enjoy some serenity and solitude. Luckily for me, I found it.

    A short walk from my hotel I discovered a huge parkland with an absolutely unpronounceable name. It reminded me a little of Hyde Park in London, albeit without the squirrels. Whatever it was called, it certainly was peaceful, green and deserted. Some of the huge trees were just tinged with the first colours of autumn. And best of all - I virtually had the whole place to myself.

    It was such a wonderful feeling to wander without being jostled, hassled or overcharged. I even found a little cafe with a real coffee machine in it. After the stress of the past couple of days, it really was the perfect place to sit, ponder and just relax. I found a seat in the shade, got out my kindle and spent a most enjoyable hour reading and nature watching.

    It was exactly what I needed.    Leggi altro

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    Ice Hockey and a Final Look at Prague

    24 settembre 2024, Repubblica Ceca ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The Hotel Expo is located right next door to a huge ice hockey stadium. This is home to the Fortuna Ice Hockey Club and holds a capacity of 13,000 spectators for its ice hockey matches.

    Yesterday afternoon the crowd consisted of just Ken, Pam and me, as we watched the under 18 team go through its vigorous training session. Even they were only training, they certainly did not hold back, and it was quite exciting to watch the young player race from one of the rink to the other, attacking the goals. I actually felt a little sorry for the goalkeeper as he had to withstand the onslaught time and time again, all the while dressed in so much protective gear that he could barely move.

    This morning, I made my way back through the graffiti belt to the centre of the city for one final time. The sunshine had been replaced by a very gentle drizzle, making the never-ending construction zones look even uglier than they did before.

    After spending two hours travelling around, I had seen enough and was keen to head back to the hotel. This trip seems to have thrown up a ceaseless series of challenges, and yesterday we received an email from the Austrian Railways throwing yet another curve ball at us.

    When we finished the ride in Vienna, several of us had planned to take the train the Salzburg and stay there for a few days. The latest email informed us that, due to the flood damage to the railways, our trains had been cancelled. At least I think that is what it said, it was hard to tell exactly as it was all in German. It goes on and on.

    We set to work with Google Translate and a desire to work out a solution to this latest problem. At this point of time, the problem is still unresolved, so I have decided to ignore it for another 24 hours and hope that it goes away.

    A more immediate concern is what will happen tomorrow morning when we need to have all our bikes fully functional again so that we continue the ride. We have been promised that a man with a toolkit will attend the hotel tomorrow morning to put them all back together again. I hope this has a happy ending, but you will have to read the next installment to find out what happens next.    Leggi altro

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    Reinhardt to the Rescue

    25 settembre 2024, Repubblica Ceca ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Sometimes it is staggering how much can change in just 24 hours. The past day is a clear example of that.

    At this time yesterday I was sitting in the hotel cafe with a few of our team members, feeling rather forlorn and considering the parlous state of our cycling adventure. At that time no one seemed to know who we were or where we going to. Our bikes were all sitting in a dismantled mess in the hotel garage, with no guarantee they would ever be able to function again. On top of that, we were all starting to feel tired of Prague, and were keen to get back on the bikes again.

    Just as I was (almost) in the pit of despair, a jovial German walked in the room and introduced himself as Reinhardt (that might have been what we said, but it could easily have been something else, like Helmet or Werner or whatever).

    "Where is Mr Dawson ?", he asked. I put up my hand, wondering what else could have possibly gone wrong. In fact it was me that was wrong. It actually turned out to be the beginning of a complete change of fortune.

    He went on to explain that he was going to assemble all the bike that evening, so that they would be ready in the morning. He also assured us that he had a proper bike trailer, that would easily accommodate all the bikes (and he did). Not only did he come equipped with tools, but he also spoke great English and was thoroughly familiar with what we were doing (or attempting to do).

    He disappeared into the garage and, a couple of hours later, the bikes looked almost like they did in Hamburg. That evening I was able to sleep better than I had for some time, finally thinking that there might be some light at the end of the dark tunnel.

    In the morning we were greeted by a large van with an amazing bike trailer attached. The bikes were quickly loaded and another two vans arrived to help carry all our team members and their luggage. So far so good.

    "Maybe we should check all the bikes", I suggested. Most of them powered up according to the normal routine, however three bikes had developed a fatal flaw - they would not turn on. This was yet another curveball, that we all just decided to ignore and hope that it would go away.

    The first part of the day's plan was to transfer all of us and our bikes to Cesky Budejovice, where we would start the ride. This was about 2 hours by car from Prague.

    When we were close to the destination, we received a message from those in one of the vehicles. Their van had suffered a blowout and could not go any further ! Another van had been ordered to take them the rest of the way. Does it ever end ? I started to wonder if someone had trod on a black cat's tail or walked under a ladder.

    It was then that a genuine miracle occurred to save the day. When the bikes were unloaded, we pulled the three dead ones aside to consider our options. Reinhardt (Werner/Axel/Helmet ?) looked a little puzzled and then professionaly jiggled the wires. The dead bike came back to life. The same calibrated jiggle was performed on the other bikes and they too returned from the dead. That was a relief.

    We also had a good chance to look around the city. It really was a delightful place, with a wonderful city square, full of whimsical pastel coloured buildings and coffee shops. It was our type of place.

    The replacement van soon arrived and we were ready to go. The ride began with a couple of laps of honour around the square before we followed the river out of the city.

    What followed next was three hours of amazing cycling, but absoutely nothing could prepare us for the sight that met our eyes when we arrived at Cesky Krumlov. I have visited a lot of cities in my time, but this magical place almost defies description. It was just breathtaking. We stopped to just gape at the sight before us. Hundreds of pictures were taken, but I am sure that none of them will do justice to the visual impact that this place had on us.

    With all the bikes now working, just about all of our team finally in good physical health and with the support of staff who know what they are doing, things really are looking up.

    See a separate footprint for images of Cesky Krumlov    Leggi altro

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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    We Reach the Source of the Elbe

    26 settembre 2024, Austria ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    When the plans for this epic adventure were being formulated, the basic aim was to follow the Elbe upstream as far as possible, then continue upstream along the Vltava River to Prague.

    As the plans took further shape I decided to continue our journey even further upstream, eventually reaching the Lipno Reservoir. At around 740 metres above sea level, there was no denying that this would be the literal high point of the entire ride.

    Of course to reach the reservoir we would have to do some considerable climbing. On paper it looked like we would be facing a climb of around 650 vertical metres. This prospect was a little daunting for some.

    As it turned out, I was reminded of seeing a threatening sign, warning "BEWARE DANGEROUS DOG:". You can hear some sort of maniacal barking coming from behind the fence, however when you look over the top, you see a tiny little toy poodle on the other side.

    Although we were prepared for a challenging climb, I am pleased to say that all of our riders made it to the top with comparative ease. Even when the gradient reached 10%, our riders had little difficulty maintaining a good speed. Some of this can be put down to the fact that everyone is now much fitter than they were at the start. The daily cycling routine really does yield results.

    We had been booked into a lakeside cafe for lunch at 1pm, and in an absolute stunning display of precision planning, we arrived exactly on time. This gave us time to savour our achievements and enjoy a lovely lunch.

    The waters from this lake contribute to the Vltava River, and hence to the Elbe, thus it was a fitting end to this part of the ride.

    After lunch the bikes were loaded back on the trailer and we climbed into three vans for the 2 hour drive to Ardagger. The next four days will be spent riding the Danube Bike Path to Vienna. Our challenges are not yet over, as we have just been informed that sections of the Danube bike path have been completely washed away by the recent floods. From now on, it will be a day-by-day proposition.

    I will keep you posted.    Leggi altro

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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Day One on the Donau

    27 settembre 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Although we are more familiar with its English name of the Danube, for the locals it is known as the Donau. The famous bike trail that we will be following for the final four days of our epic ride is officially known as the "Donau Radweg" (Danube Bike Path).

    Yesterday we bade farewell to Czechia and were transported to Ardagger in Austria. This is the start point for the final leg of our journey.

     Last night we were treated to one of the best meals of the trip so far. Most people chose the Wiener Schnitzel (we are in the home of the schnitzel after all), and I can personally vouch for its very generous size and deliciousness.

    This morning we set out from Ardagger, with the goal of riding to the famous city of Melk, about 54 km away. The local weather bureau had promised us some light rain from about 9 to 10.30 am, and then dry for the rest of the day. They were pretty accurate in one respect, but they somehow got the forecast back to front. It was actually fine for the first couple of hours of the ride, and then the rain came, It lasted for the rest of the ride. Some days are just like that.

    Since Ken and Pauline had ridden this route just twelve months ago, it seemed appropriate to use their up to date knowledge to take on the role of ride leaders.

    The ride also gave us the first taste of the bike path, after the recent flooding. To our relief, although some sections were covered in slippery mud, it was generally quite suitable for safe riding. In this section, the path seldom deviates from the side of the river, so we could all see how impassable it would have been two weeks ago. There were also numerous signs of recent flood damage along the banks.

    About 26 km from Ardagger we reached the historic city of Ybbs. In my memory it was memorable for two things - its unpronounceable name, and it bicycle museum. While the name is still impossible to wrap your tongue around, I found that the bike museum had been extended and modernised since my last visit.

    We spent an hour or so wandering the fascinating collection of ancient bikes and then stopped for a coffee and cake, before resuming the ride. It was about then that the rain started. It was gentle at first and then got progressively heavier, making sure that we were all thoroughly soaked through by the time we reached Melk. It was just as well the hotel was equipped with heated towel rails, as they will certainly come in handy tonight.

    The city of Melk is dominated by the sprawling Baroque Abbey, sitting on al elevated position above the city. There is no denying that it is an impressive building, but since I have visited it on three previous occasions, I chose to give it a miss this time. It is also a display of the excessive wealth and power of the Catholic Church, which I have to admit leaves me rather cold.

    The famous Abbey certainly is a drawcard for the thousands of daily visitors who arrive by tourist bus and pyjama boats and then swarm all over the place like flies on roadkill.

    Tomorrow, we continue our ride to Krems, however it might be a later than usual start as it also coincides with the AFL Grand Final.    Leggi altro

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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    The Wachau Valley

    28 settembre 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    With only two more cycling days remaining after today, we all are aware that our long adventure is inevitably drawing to a close. In some respects, those early hot days in Hamburg seem a lifetime ago, but in other respects it has all gone past so quickly.

    There was no denying that we had some significant challenges along the way. The most serious of these was the "once in a hundred year" flood event that we managed to find ourselves right in the middle of. If we had been just a couple of days earlier or later on our ride to Dresden, we almost certainly would not have been able to make it as far as we did,

    Compared with the floods, the steady rain that we experienced yesterday was just a mere bagatelle by comparison. Even though we arrived at the hotel in Melk rather wet, it did not seem to have much effect on anyone's morale. And those beautiful, heated towel rails certainly came in handy.

    Today's ride took us from Melk to Krems. In the process we rode through the famous Wachau Valley - famous for its wine growing and also for the hordes of people from the passing pajama boats that jam the streets of the towns every day.

    Ken had promised us that he would lead us to the "best cake shop in Austria" in the town of Spitz, about 20 km from the start of the ride. That was certainly something to look forward to, The only problem was that, when we arrived, the place was locked up tight ! That was a big disappointment.

    Actually, all was not as it seemed, for the German sign promised that it would open at 11 am. And it did. We were sternly told to sit at the tables on the balcony while our orders were taken. Anyone who did not follow these directions was given a lecture in correct protocol.

    As for the cakes, I am not sure whether they were the best cakes in Austria, , but they did go down well, although the tiny size of the coffee cups meant that the coffee was consumed in the blink of an eye.

    The next stop was at beautiful Durnstein, with its narrow streets and even more tourist throngs. I found a place that claimed to sell toasted ham and cheese sandwiches. Although I would only score the offering about a 4/10 on the toasted sandwich rating, it was the first one I had been able to find since leaving Australia.

    After lunch we climbed back on the bikes for the short final leg to Krems. It would have been easy if our hotel had not been situated at the top of a very steep road high above the city. It was just as well we all had plenty of battery power remaining and the fine, modern hotel was worth the effort of getting there.    Leggi altro

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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    "Is Don, Is NOT so Good"

    29 settembre 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Statistics experts tell us that 99.9% of accidents occur within sight of your own front door (or something like that). Today we have just experienced this unfortunate statistic being demonstrated.

    With our ride rapidly approaching its inevitable conclusion, I suggested that maybe couples might like to ride together, instead of being with the large group. The idea was that it could be some sort of "romantic Sunday ride".

    We have tried such ideas in the past, and found that it can work both ways. In most cases it can prove to be a lovely way for couples to spend some quality time together - a sort of "date day". On the other hand, sometimes being confined in close proximity for an extended time can lead to a monumental row. I hoped that, for today's couples, it would be the former.

    The original plan had been to ride from Krems to Tulln, however we had been informed that the bike path beyond Zwentenberg was still impassable. Thus an alternative plan had been formulated, whereby we could ride for around 32km to a cafe, and then be transferred to our hotel in Tulln. This actually turned out to be incredibly important.

    We headed out of Krems under a blue sky and sunshine. That was a pleasant surprise, although it did not last for long. Since it was a Sunday morning, the streets were quiet, apart from the tolling of the church bells. I was riding in a small group with Ken Lister leading the way out of the city. We had not ridden more than about a km before Mei insisted that we all stop so that she could take a picture of the bells ringing. (I am not kidding, although I wish I was).

    We soon joined a lovely smooth path on the top of a levee bank. With a steady wind blowing from behind, it truly was effortless riding. It would have actually been perfect if it had not been for the fact that the meteorological thermostat had been turned down. The sun was hidden by thick clouds and the temperature plummeted dramatically. It was a reminder that the seasons can change quickly in Europe.

    About 15 km into the ride, we stopped at a nice cafe by the track for some morning tea (and cake). It also gave us a chance to put on every scrap of clothing we had with us. So, on went balaclavas, coats, jackets, hats, etc. It really felt freezing, probably because it was.

    The coffee was so good I actually ordered two cups, although for some reason, the second cup was not as good as the first one. The apricot strudel was excellent all the way through.

    With only another 17 or so km to go, we were feeling that we would enjoy one of the easiest rides of the entire trip. That turned out to be somewhat premature,

    Our group got their bikes and proceeded to leave the cafe. So far so good. What happened next was not so good. It was only after we had ridden for 10 minutes or so, that we realised that half of our group was missing. We waited. And we waited. There was still no sign of them. How could they have possibly got lost when there was only a single path to follow?

    After numerous attempts to call them, I finally got the message that no group leader ever wants to hear. Don Dower had taken a serious fall while mounting his bike and had suffered numerous deep cuts to his legs. It was here that Heather's skills as a doctor were put to good use. By utilising items from several first aid kits, she was able to patch his legs sufficiently to get him back on the bike. It was however evident that he would need a visit to the nearest hospital.

    We were finally able to continue the ride and soon witnessed the massive amounts of damage that had been caused by the recent flood. The track had been mostly cleared, but it was clear to see that it would have been impassable just a few days earlier.

    Don managed to reach the pickup point at Zwentenberg, where Heather further patched up his numerous wounds. Considering the severity of the situation, it was decided to take Don direct to the hospital, while another 7 were taken to the hotel. The two vans then had to return to pick up the remaining ten riders.

    I am now writing this at 4.30 pm in my lovely hotel room. Don has already been treated at the hospital, and is looking a little better. I suspect that, if this had have happened in Australia, he might have still been waiting the following morning.

    It was an unfortunate event to happen so close to the finish of our ride, and we are all hoping that he will be able to complete our ride with us into Vienna tomorrow.    Leggi altro

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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    We Made It !

    30 settembre 2024, Austria ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    It is common at this stage of any extended ride for participants to have mixed feelings. While there is no doubt the feeling of achievement and relief that comes from completing such a task, there is also a feeling that we don't want it to come to an end.

    For the past month, twenty people from vastly different backgrounds have shared a common goal - to reach Vienna. While it is true to say that we had more challenges thrown at us than we might have expected, in many ways those challenges only served to bring out the best in everyone. I suspect that in a strange way, it will be those difficulties that everyone will recall most vividly when we all return to our regular lives back in Australia.

    Last night we shared our final meal "on the road", in the Restaurant Suddeck in Tulln. This place was situated right on the waterfront, and provided a wonderful backdrop for our last dinner. Normally the riverfront at Tulln would have been crowded with visiting pajama boats, but due to the floods, the pajama boat cruises have obviously been cancelled. That is unfortunate for those who were booked into them, but it actually turned out to be a bonus for us.

    While we were sharing our meal, Steve Elliott read an incredible poem he had penned, humorously and accurately describing our team members.

    Here is his poem in full:

    "Epic Elbe

    We met at the Hamburg Marriott,
    In August, the last day.
    And after Sue had met the crew,
    She broke her leg to get away.

    We have two Paul's, and one is tall,
    The other leads the route.
    He was getting pretty good at it,
    Until a bollard took him out.
    He always finds the coffee shops,
    The bakeries and parking spots.
    But needs Velcro shoes, when he has booze,
    Cos he has a little trouble with knots.

    Now Steve and Jo, (the little ones),
    They're an asset to every team.
    With Steve at the front, and Jo at the back,
    Their ducklings all safe in between.

    Dessau we had a free day, that's not enough for Mei.
    "I'm off to see the Berlin wall, for I was born to roam".
    And knowing Mei she's found a way,
    To bring a piece back home.

    And then there's tiny Heather,
    (She's really rather small).
    Twice I saw her blown away,
    Once by headwind, once by Paul.
    She's always up for a joke or a tease,
    Or a glass of afternoon wine.
    Or a wine with lunch, or a wine when we dine,
    Or a wine just about any time.

    Neill and Karen, they're a pair,
    For they'll each take a turn,
    Of who is going to stay upright,
    And who will crash and burn.

    Put Iain and Lisa side by side,
    There's some difference in their height.
    Yes Iain could be a lighthouse,
    And Lisa be his light.

    Now Jill and Don don't seem to tire,
    They just keep rolling on.
    But Jill is spinning like a fan,
    I think she's stuck in one.

    Pauline had her own motto,
    It kept her near the lead.
    Less riders I can crash into,
    If there's only one to heed.

    And Ken would herd us from the back,
    So none were left behind.
    Except of course himself at times,
    If a tractor he could find.

    Joanna's always trying to help,
    To fix and make us whole.
    "Just one more glass of Bailey's,
    Then on to my next goal".

    Paul and Cat, know where it's at,
    They've travelled all around.
    Each took a turn at being ill.
    From some virus that they'd found.
    They didn't pass it on at all,
    They're not that kind of pair.
    So the rest of us are thankful,
    Some things they didn't share.

    Pam snuck in at Dessau,
    And then she snuck back out.
    She came to do much riding,
    But joined the cycling drought.

    Now John he loves his concerts,
    Be it opera, mass or band.
    He got a lot of takers,
    For the opera night he planned.

    Big Don, he just kept rolling on,
    Or that is how he'd seem.
    We lost him once, or thought we had,
    But he'd just switched his team.
    Then came the crash, he didn't flinch,
    He's tough is our old Don.
    For after he'd been bandaged up,
    He just kept riding on.

    What can we say of Dennis,
    He's always in control.
    Unless he sees a schnitzel,
    For that he'd sell his soul.
    He's always looking after us,
    Making sure things turn out right.
    He's on the phone, and emails too,
    But DON'T Whatsapp him at night.

    And as for me, I thank you all,
    You made this trip the best.
    But we've travelled for a month now,
    So I think I'll take a rest."

    It was a veritable masterpiece of penmanship, and a lovely way to remember what we shared together.

    This morning, of course we had to ride the final leg of the ride to Vienna. A couple of days ago we had been warned that this section was impassable, and that we would have to take a bus transfer instead. That would have been a disappointing way to end the ride, but good fortune smiled on us once again.

    Yesterday we had the good news that the first group of riders had managed to complete the damaged section of bike path. We were told that "if we were game, we could also give it a go." But we had to remember that the path was still officially closed.

    And of course we gave it a go, We are Ghostriders after all. Did we get through ? Of course we did. Although it was clearly evident just how damaged the trail had been, the recent couple of dry days had allowed the silt to dry out enough for safe cycling. In some sections the mud over the trail would have been at least 30 cm deep, before it was cleared.

    Since it was our last day of riding, the decision was made for all our 20 riders to ride in a single group. That was the way we had started out from Hamburg a month ago, so it was fitting that we finished in the same way.

    About 10 km from the finish line, we crossed onto the long island that extends up the centre of the Danube. The tall buildings of Vienna grew on the skyline. It finally became obvious that we really were going to reach our goal.

    After a final group photo shot on the island, we crossed the bridge and entered the city. The final couple of km to the hotel were actually very simple, as the bike path virtually took us to the hotel's front door.

    All that remained was to climb off the bikes for the very last time, and congratulate each other for their achievement. The bikes were stored away in the underground garage, panniers were emptied and we saw our bikes for the final time.

    It really has been a blast. What a ride !    Leggi altro

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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Twenty Four Hours in Vienna

    1 ottobre 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Although we arrived at our hotel in Vienna around 12 noon, the hotel insisted that we would not be allowed to enter our rooms before 3pm. That is unless of course, you paid them a 30 Euro early entry charge. This was rather disappointing, but the miserly approach seemed to be a recurring thread. I had never heard of a hotel that wanted to charge 8 Euro for a cup of hot water either.

    A few of us sat in the foyer and waited until the clock ticked to 3 pm, and then made a beeline for our rooms. It was great to finally be able to dispense with the cycling gear once and for all.

    Once decked out in normal clothes I wandered off to the nearby Prater Park. This amusement park is one of the most famous in the world and dates back well over a 100 years. Perhaps the most famous ride of all is the huge ferris wheel, featured in the movie The Third Man. A feature of this wheel is that it is constructed exactly like a huge bike wheel. The outer circle is secured only by an intricate collection of steel cables. I am not sure if there are any others like this anywhere in the world.

    I wandered through the Prater Park to the so called Prater Turm. This is a towering structure, almost 120 metres high. If you want to be scared out of your wits you can sit in one of the seats and be elevated to the highest point in the park. To add to the fear factor, the seats are then spun around at the same time, in an apparent attempt to hurl you into oblivion.

    As I looked at the Prater Turm, my mind went back 8 years to when I last stood at this spot. On that occasion I was accompanied by a great friend Janna Thompson. Janna had been a regular participant in our overseas rides and was always up for a challenge.

    "You should have a go on that", I suggested to her.
    "I will if you will", she replied.

    That put me in a spot. I would lose face if I chickened out. Thus we agreed to come back in the morning and would both dice with death on this thing. We did come back in the morning, only to find the ride closed. We never did get to give it a go.

    Unfortunately Janna passed away tragically a couple of years ago, and I lost one of my closest friends. The thought of those events of 8 years ago saddened me considerably. Sometimes we just have to take opportunities when they arise, and not put them off.

    In the evening, the group had booked tables in the hotel restaurant for a "second final meal" together. Quite a few shared their favourite memories from the past month, knowing that within the next 24 hours, the group will be dispersed widely.

    This morning I caught t the very efficient underground train to the centre of the city and spent some time wandering the region near St Stephen's Cathedral, the Sisi Museum and the Spanish Riding School. Vienna really is lovable city, and it is little wonder that it now carries the accolade of being the world's most livable city. The combination of history, culture, modern infrastructure, bike paths and museums is very hard to beat. It could certainly act as a role model for other cities of this size. The underground Metro must certainly be one of the most efficient and easiest to navigate in the world. And once again, due to the absence of the pajama boats, the centre of the city had far fewer tourists than normal.

    As I walked and walked, and gazed at the buildings and parks, I wondered whether I will ever have the privilege of returning to this place. Whether I have the opportunity to return or not, I certainly feel blessed to have accumulated so many vivid memories of my times here.

    Tomorrow I pack my bags once again and catch the train from Vienna to Salzburg. That is a city I have not had the chance to visit before, so that will be a brand new experience.    Leggi altro

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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    The Slow Train to Salzburg

    2 ottobre 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    When I was finalising my own plans for this trip, I was looking for something special to do after completing the ride. Although I had been in Austria several times before, I had never visited its famous city of Salzburg, said to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Salzburg is probably best known for being the place that the Sound of Music was mostly filmed in. Surely that alone would justify giving the place a visit. It was also the birthplace of Mozart.

    There was a second reason for visiting Salzburg. In the old war time documentary films I had seen the spectacular location high in the Alps known as the Eagles Nest. This incredible spot is a short distance from the nearby town of Berchtesgaden, and was often visited by Hitler and his cronies.

    Unfortunately, all our plans changed a few days ago. We were informed that the train from Vienna to Salzburg was cancelled because of severe flood damage to the line. After some frantic research I discovered that it was still possible to get to Salzburg by travelling on an alternative (and much slower) train.

    A bigger problem arose the following day when I discovered that the road from Berchtesgaden to the Eagles Nest is currently blocked by a landslide. There will be no way to get around that problem. Life is like that sometimes.

    This morning Ken, Pauline and myself caught a taxi to the Vienna HBF and then climbed aboard our substitute train to Salzburg. Apart from an initial jam of completing suitcases as we found our allocated seats, the rest of the journey was quite civilised. Although the train was not a high speed one, it was smooth and almost silent, so I soon found myself fast asleep.

    Three hours later we were at Salzburg. It did not take long to found my hotel, as it was only 200 metres from the station. When I entered my room on the sixth floor, I was delighted to discover that I have a view across to the nearby snowcapped mountains.

    Tomorrow, I will take myself on a walk of the city.    Leggi altro

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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Salzburg Sightseeing

    3 ottobre 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Following the cancellation of the main reason I came to Salzburg, I was left with a free day, with no definite plans. Although I could have spent the time frantically rushing all over the city, trying to visit as many churches and museums as possible, I opted for a much more low key affair.

    The only definite place that I wanted to reach was the castle. Its official name is the Fortress Hohensalzburg, and it is visible from just about every part of the city. After taking a metro bus ride and a short funicular railway journey, I found myself looking down on the city of Salzburg.

    The city itself is surrounded by rugged mountains, some of which have splashes of snow on their upper slopes. This place would really be spectacular in winter, when the whole city is blanketed in white. Unfortunately, there was neither sunshine nor snow today, just a low covering of thick grey clouds. Although rain threatened for much of the day, it did not eventuate, but the low clouds were sufficient to completely block the view of the nearby mountains.

    On the way back from the fortress, I somehow managed to catch a bus going in completely the wrong direction. I soon realised my mistake, but had to ride to the other end of the route before the bus finally reversed and took me back to my hotel.

    I have to admit that after a long and demanding trip, I am starting to feel weary, and I am looking forward to finally be heading home again.    Leggi altro

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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Berchtesgaden, Bavaria and Kings Lake

    4 ottobre 2024, Germania ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    The adventure that began way back on August 26th in Hamburg is now rapidly approaching its conclusion. Tomorrow morning, I will begin the complex series of trains, planes and taxis that will (hopefully) get me from Salzburg back to Melbourne. Although I am looking forward to being back on home soil, it is hard not to feel a little daunted by the ordeal of the next three days.

    Today was my last full day in Salzburg. The glimpses of the surrounding mountains that I sometimes saw between the clouds and drizzle suggested that this really would be a beautiful place on a clear day. Unfortunately, the drizzle has persisted almost nonstop since I arrived, so I will leave feeling a little unfulfilled. The advance weather forecast promises that much better and warmer weather is on its way, and it will probably arrive just as my train is pulling away from the Salzburg Station.

    As I mentioned previously, my main reason for coming to Salzburg was not to do the Sound of Music Tour, it was to travel high into the nearby Bavarian Alps to see the famous Eagles Nest. A couple of days ago we were informed that the road from Berchtesgaden to Eagles Nest was blocked by a vast quantity of snow that had slid down the mountain and destroyed some of the avalanche barriers in the process. I was told today that it is unlikely that the road will be reopened before the end of the season.

    If I was not going to be able to reach the top of the mountain, I decided to at least catch a bus to the Bavarian Town of Berchtesgaden instead. So that is what I did. For a few hours I joined a group of bus tourists and travelled over the German border into Bavaria,

    There is no doubt that the town of Berchtesgaden is extremely picturesque. Even in such gloomy weather, the alpine houses looked like they had been lifted from picture postcards. In spite of the natural beauty of the place, this area has a dark wartime history, with many of the nazi regime owning large holiday homes here.

    The railway station, built during nazi times, still bears the unmistakable hallmarks of their overstated architecture. You can still see the poles where the swastikas were displayed outside the main entrance.

    Although we could not climb the alpine road to the Eagles Nest, we did take an alternate route to the famous Kings Lake. Surrounded by snowcapped peaks, the water in the lake is crystal clear and supposedly safe to drink. Only electric powered boats are allowed on the lake, to prevent pollution of the waters.

    On the way back to Salzburg, the bus stopped next to one of the most beautiful little cemeteries I have ever seen. The graves were lovingly maintained, and many had tiny glowing lanterns on them. However, even here there was a dark side as well. As I was wandering the graves, I discovered a large number of memorials for nazi soldiers who had been killed in the war. Each one was proudly photographed in their German army uniforms.

    I am now back in the hotel, sorting my luggage for tomorrow's journeys. In the morning, I first catch a train back to Vienna, then travel direct to Vienna airport to catch a late-night flight to Copenhagen. On Sunday I climb on another flight to fly to Singapore, before finally catching the final flight to Melbourne.    Leggi altro

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  • The World on Two Wheels2024 Epic Elbe AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    A Night Flight to Copenhagen

    5 ottobre 2024, Danimarca ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    It's been a long day. Although the clock might not agree, some days are definitely much longer than others. Today was a whopper.

    After my three days in Salzburg, it was time to begin the long and exhausting journey back home. The day began with packing (ie cramming) my bag for the second last time, checking out of yet another hotel, and dragging my luggage across the road to the Salzburg HBF (central rail station).

    Since I was little early, I was relieved to discover that there was a special lounge for OBB first class ticket holders. Not only did they have nice comfy armchairs, they even had free food and drinks. It certainly justified paying the small extra premium for first class tickets. I was soon joined by Ken and Pauline who were travelling on the same train as me.

    At 10 am we made our way to the waiting train and found our allocated seats. Not only were the seats very comfortable, we were relieved to find the carriage only about 30% full.

    At the allocated time, the train silently pulled out of the station and we were on our way. At one stage I decided to explore the next few carriages, and realised just how fortunate (wise) we were to buy first class tickets. The second class carriages were a complete contrast. Not only was every seat occupied, there were numerous people lying on the floor between carriages. Luggage was jammed in everywhere. It looked positively horrible. I don't think I am a snob, but I was certainly glad to retreat to the sanctuary of first class.

    Three hours later we were rolling into Vienna Central Station. I bounced my luggage down the train steps and then risked doing myself a permanent back injury by carrying them down the long staircase to the concourse. Sometimes travel really is hard work.

    I found my way to the station exit and walked to the nearest taxi. About an hour later (and 50 Euros poorer), I was at the Vienna Airport. Because I had purchased my tickets with Scandinavian Airlines, it meant that I had to travel via Copenhagen, before finally heading in the direction of Australia.

    The problem was that the only flight to Copenhagen did not leave until 9 pm. That meant an interminable 7 hour wait at Vienna Airport. To my relief I was able to check in my cargo luggage immediately (probably because I pretended to be a distressed old man), and was then able to find a quiet spot to read my book while I waited.

    The flight to Copenhagen took off on time, and thankfully my luggage also caught the same flight. About 11 pm, I dragged my luggage from the carousal in Copenhagen and went looking for the airport hotel I had booked for the night. I think I must have walked about halfway to Sweden, before I finally reached the hotel. I had mistakenly thought that Copenhagen Airport would be comparatively small, but I think I discovered that the airport is actually larger than the country !

    I finally staggered into my room near midnight, knowing that in just a few hours I would be boarding the next plane for the mammoth flight to Singapore.    Leggi altro

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