Robert is a world famous travel writer with having pieces appear in National Geographic Traveler, The New Yorker and Cottage Life Magazine. Robert when he isn't travelling lives with his family in Edmonton, Alberta. Baca selengkapnya Edmonton, Canada
  • Hari 19

    Reflection on the Coast to Coast

    20 Mei, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I just wanted to finish the C2C part of the blog with some personal reflections on the trip. I had a great time and the trip certainly lived up to and even past my expectations.

    I was extremely fortunate from a weather perspective. One day of rain during a 15 day trip is really quite remarkable. This spring in the UK has up until now been incredibly rainy. May and June however are the driest months which I took into consideration when planning the trip. The one day I hiked in the rain I really enjoyed it. It was the consequence of the rain and the wet boots and the blisters the next day that were the downside of the rain. It would definitely have been a much more difficult trip had it rained. My walk of the C2C would have been much different than someone's trip in April.

    The majority of my trip planning worked out very well. Doing my own bookings of accomodations and hiring the luggage moving service took more work but then it also engaged me more in the adventure. Some people's hobbies are fixing cars. Mine is holiday planning. Organizing my own trip also saved me a little money. I mainly booked accommodations through the Internet because I was fearful that the cost of calling the UK was prohibitive. I eventually had to call the UK and Telus only charged me 7 cents per minute. I think B and Bs give better, nicer and cheaper accommodations than some of the taverns or inns I stayed at. That said I would still try hard to stay on the route as I met some hikers who stayed at B and Bs off route and had some transportation issues.

    One thing I was reminded of on the trip was to take my time and enjoy myself. I met an elderly American couple with their 2 friends having a nap on the trail lying on yoga mats withe their shoes and socks off. It was after Orton. They told me that they did this every day after lunch. They were doing the trip over 21 days and taking their time. Why rush they told me. It was an experience not a race. I found myself repeating this mantra for the rest of the trip and on the nice days after lunch I would take my shoes and socks off and read my book and enjoy the ambiance of being outside. I the rain day I don't think I did this.

    The comraderie on the trip was great. Some people I got to know better than others if our trips coincided and some people I would only meet and chat with once. Everyone was so happy and friendly to chat and share their experiences. It was great to meet Dawn, the Acock brothers, the Coloradians -Debbie and Ginnie, Lisa and Annie, Dexter the dog and owners, Nick from Brighton, the Australians from Perth and many more people who I connected with on the trip.

    Some of the highlights of the trip were the church in St Bees and the story of the 14 century knight, the lake district, hiking the crags, Wordsworth's house and grave in Grasmere, the stone circles, the churches Shap abbey, the lambs playing together in the fields, the day of being sniffed by the animals, overcoming my fears, seeing the North Sea and finishing at Robin Hood Bay. It was all good.
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  • Hari 18

    Grosmont to Robin Hood's Bay

    19 Mei, Inggris ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Today was the last day of the C2C trail but it wasn't going to let me off too easily just because it was the last day. It was a 25 km hike with an initial 230 metre elevation gain out of Grosmont. I saw a British couple that I had met yesterday just ahead of me. They were doing the trail over 12 days and we're very strong hikers so I just let them go. I stopped for a clothing change towards the top of the grind and never saw them again. At the top of the grind I was once again on the Yorkshire moors. More moors. They have their beauty but after 4 days of moor hiking I had had enough. I dipped down into the pretty Little Beck Woods, a pretty forested area with a small river and waterfalls. Also home to a boulder which had been carved out by someone in 1790. Afterwards I headed up in elevation for more moors. Uncultivated land higher in elevation and covered by heath. The first set of moors were transected by a road but the second one merely had a path which in spots was boggy and my feet and runners got a little wet. One of the highlights of the day was finally casting my eyes on the North Sea. Shortly after I stopped at an honesty box on a farm that was in an old camper. There were chairs to sit on or in the event of rain, one could sit in the caravan. Fortunately I was blessed with another day of no rain so I sat outside. After a short lunch I continued down to the sea where I followed the coast at the very top of high cliffs before reaching Robin Hood Bay. RHB is a very touristy town hugging the coast. I also noticed an increase in the BMI index compared to everyone I had previously met along the C2C. I made it to the finish at the Bay hotel in a very good 6 hours and 15 minutes. Waiting for me at the finish line were Dexter the dog and his owners. They had walked 2 hours past Grosmont last night and stayed at a farmhouse B and B. It was fun to have someone to share the end with. I performed the last two customs of the hike. I dipped my shoes in the North Sea but mistimed things and got a soaker. I threw my pebble into the sea but then retrieved it to bring home as a souvenir. I sat with Joanne, David and Dexter for awhile before they left to get a bus to Whitby to start their journey home. I had arranged for a cab to take me back to Grosmont. When I made it back to Grosmont and tidied myself up I headed out to the local pub only to learn that their kitchen had closed early, it being Sunday. These women I was sitting beside felt that there weren't any other options without a car. The best they could do was French fries and apple crisp. I passed on the ice cream. Filling but not very healthy. I can only imagine how my cholesterol levels are doing. Off to London tomorrow via Middleborough and York on the train.Baca selengkapnya

  • Hari 16

    Blakey Ridge to Grosmont

    17 Mei, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I survived the night at the Lions Inn. I had supper with a group of gregarious Australians from Perth. They are doing the hike in 18 days but some of them have been bothered by blisters but are too scared to wear their sneakers. On the other hand I have been wearing sneakers for the last two days and bandaged my blisters and they seem to be healing up nicely. I also got to pet Dexter the dog who is hiking the trail. I survived the night as the pub which had been built onto over the last 500 years was not up to current code. There was only a very skinny window in my room which I wouldn't have been able to squeeze through in the event of a fire. The was a rabbit Warren of halls to the emergency exit. The only consolation was that there hadn't probably been a fire there for the last 500 years so the chance of a fire the one night I stayed there would have been pretty low.

    The weather called for clear skies and no rain today but when I awoke it was another incredibly foggy day. After breakfast withe the Aussies, I set into the fog on the Yorkshire moors. I had to follow the main road for a good half hour. Fortunately there was grass on the side of the road so I could walk there. The cars were just flying by. The crazy thing too was that there were free range sheep wandering around. There is no way the drivers would have been able to see white sheep in the fog in time to stop. Thank goodness for my GPS which I just followed. I missed a medieval milestone marker called fat Betty as it was impossible to see anything. The tradition is to leave a food gift for another traveler. I ended up giving two Cliff bars to Dexter's owners later in the day.After an hour and a half, I caught up with Dexter and his owners Joanne and David who both work in the corporate world. Joanne worked for Molson Coors in logistics and it was interesting listening to her talk about her job. I walked off and on with them for the rest of the day. They were taking more frequent shorter breaks for Dexter while I was taking less longer breaks. Finally by noon the fog began to lift as we descended down from the moors into the farmland of the English countryside. I talked to an English woman hiking the C2C with friends and family who was taking the train back to London for her sister's 50 birthday and then returning to finish tomorrow. I walked through the pleasant quiet towns of Glaisdale and Egemont bridge where some of my co hikers would be staying the night. The last part of the C2C seems to concentrate hikers down to the last 2 days in close proximity. Hikers doing the trip in 12 to 14 days are now catching up to me but not passing me as anyone this close will have one last day before the final last day.

    I arrived in Grosmont and checked out the rail station where the Yorkshire steam engine runs on weekends. It brought back memories of my family's trip here to Yorkshire when we took the steam train to another station nearer to York. I miss those days with the kids. I continued on to my bed and breakfast in an old Victorian house where I will spend 2 nights in Grosmont cabbing back here tomorrow after finishing the C2C in Robin Hood Bay. I can catch a train here Monday morning that will allow me to connect to Middleborough, York and then King's Cross London. I did a much needed laundry at the B and B and now I am dining at the Station Pub. I can't believe that I only have one last day for my adventure. 24 more kilometers and I will be done. Hurray.
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  • Hari 16

    Clay Bank to Blakey Ridge.

    17 Mei, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today was slated as an easy day by the guidebook and it actually was probably the easiest day of the whole trip. I was given a ride back to Clay Bank by David the ex owner after sorting out the bill. I had queried the bill after I was charged for 2 lunches only to also realize that I had prepaid for the room with Booking. com and didn't have to pay for the room twice. That saved me $125. An innocent mistake but it pays to keep your eye on things.

    The weather was very good today. It was a little foggy this morning. There was a bit of an elevation gain out of Claybank but otherwise it was a pretty flat walk on the Yorkshire moors. Knowing it was a short day, I took my time having two generous breaks. It was only a little foggy today, nothing like yesterday though.I met an English hiker moving very quickly who I chatted with for a while before letting him go on. He was doing twice the distance I was doing. I saw various grouse but no other wildlife. Much of the trail was on an old railway bed so it was flat and sandy which was easy on the feet. I arrived at a very leisurely 1:15 pm. I chatted outside with some Australian hikers who were doing the trip over 18 days. I am now just chilling in my very small room before suppering at 6:30.
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  • Hari 15

    Ingle Cross to Clay Bank

    16 Mei, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I was in a bit of a cloud today. No I didn't have brain fog I was literally walking through the fog/ cloud all day today. The weather prediction last night had been favorable however it was lightly raining this morning and it picked up just as I was leaving the Blue Bell Inn. Nick the teacher who was walking twice the distance that I was to Blackney Ridge so he got a very early start. He shouted into the pub where I was breakfasting a hearty good bye. I saw a sign to Thirsk 12 miles leaving town and thought of James Herriot who lived in Thirsk as well as our neighbors Warren and Tanya Thirsk. The walk today navigated through the Yorkshire moors-non cultivated elevated areas that are uncultivated and covered in Heather. The path was up and down but had a very respectable 500 metre elevation gain. In areas it supposedly commanded some pretty impressive views. Today the moors were engulfed in a very very thick fog and visibility during the day was reduced to 10 to 15 metres. I encountered some other hikers but if they weren't talking one would only realize at the last moment that one had come up on them. A bit spooky. I met a Dutch couple and 2 English couples. The one English couple were doing the C2C in 16 days but were accompanied by their 8 year old Dauschound dog Dexter. He seemed to be doing fine but they said he had been in a grumpy mood that morning. The couple not Dexter took my photo from one of the high points where on a good day you could see the North Sea. I couldn't see anything. The hike was short at only 10 miles but I needed an easy day after yesterday. Highlights were talking to the other hikers, flushing grouse out of the heather, my lunch a 4 thousand year old burial cairn. I did a lot of stretching last night and this morning and changed my backpack set up a little. I think this helped the trapezius. I think a combination of the pack and having to look down so much to watch for the footing is irritating it. I put bandaids on the blisters and wore my running shoes today so the blisters didn't worsen. My boots are still damp. I have them in the boiler room at the Wainstone hotel right now and hopefully they will dry out. When I got to the Wainstones which I could hardly see, I called the Wainstone hotel in Great Boughton and the owner came and picked me up in Clay Bank which was the end of my hike for the day. The C2C today joined with the Cleveland Way today and was a superbly maintained trail with many segments consisting of large stones.After yesterday, it was great having no mud. They are calling for better weather tomorrow so hopefully we will have a more exciting day.Baca selengkapnya

  • Hari 14

    Brompton on Swale to Ingleby Cross

    15 Mei, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    This is the longest day I have to hike on this trip. I had shortened it by 7 km by walking longer yesterday but it was still a punishing 30 km of walking flat on roads and through some incredibly muddy paths. Very poorly posted. There was no drying room at the Frenchgate hotel and the newspaper didn't cut it to dry out the boots so I ended up hiking in wet boots that got wetter as the day progressed. I developed blisters on the planter aspect of my fourth toes. I will try the trail runners tomorrow. My right trapezius is also bothering me. Despite the long walk today I did enjoy myself. Beautiful churches in Bolton on Swale and Denby Wiske. Some very friendly domestic animals which all seem very intent on smelling me. I finally saw Highland cattle in Northern England of all places. The craziest thing at the end of the day was having to run across a significant two lane highway the size of the QE2. It was the only way across. There was a service station nearby and I asked if there was any safer way and there wasn't. The teller's advice was to wait for a break and run to the median. Madness just madness. Probably the most dangerous part of the whole trip. I am staying at the Blue Bell Inn where I met up with Nick the school teacher that I met on my way to Keld. We had an early dinner and are both turning in for an early night.Baca selengkapnya

  • Hari 13

    Reeth to Richmond to Brompton On Swale

    14 Mei, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I went out for supper with Debbie and Ginny the 2 Coloradians and an Australian Annie who they had met earlier on their trip. I think we were all pretty tired. I headed back to the Buck. I had been a little worried about staying in a pub for the noise and I could hear the base of the bar music from my room. I was so tired that I fell asleep anyhow at about 9:15. I woke up at 10:15 and all was quiet so they must have shut the bar down early on a Monday night.

    I awoke the next morning to rain. This had been forecast. I have had the first nine days of this trip with essentially no rain which is pretty unheard of so I have to count my blessings. My problem with walking in the rain is that when I put on my rain pants and coat, I get very hot. I started with them on but when the rain let up, I had to take them off only to put them back on again. I finally met my first East to West C2C hiker. She was doing it in 12 days, had a dog and was camping. It rained continuously well into the afternoon. During one downpour I happened to come by a beautiful church that had an honesty box-selling treats on the honor system. It was providence and I took it as a sign that I was being watched over. I am back into sheep territory and dairy. Lots of gates and stiles to cross. One farmer had put his own trail markers up. Very helpful. I only got lost a few times. I made it to Richmond by one which was really good time. My guidebook had recommended a hack. Hike onto Brompton on Swale today and take a taxi back. That would be a total of 31 k today and would reduce tomorrow's hike from 37 down to 30. I can't say that the hike after Richmond was that scenic. In fact it even went under the M1 highway. I tried to get an Uber from the Farmers Arms but something wasn't right. After 15 minutes I went inside to talk to the barmaid and she advised me no Uber around Richmond. She called me a cab which I will get me to take me back there tomorrow. It cost me 20 pounds for a 2 hour shorter day tomorrow. I am staying at the Frenchgate Hotel. Nice place but no drying room. I connected with Lisa and Cathie and I joined for Indian food for supper. They continue on tomorrow but I don't think we will be staying in the same places again. Many of the hikers I have been with like Joy and Derek and the Coloradians will have a rest day here so I will be leaving many of my travel friends again.
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  • Hari 12

    Keld to Reeth

    13 Mei, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Last night I joined Annie and Lisa for supper at the Keld Lodge. They are two gregarious intelligent athletic free spirited Americans who have been doing the hike at the same rate as me but I haven't had time to talk yet but made up for it last night at supper. Annie this morning at breakfast told me she had read my blog so I thought that I should throw in some superlatives to describe them.

    Day 9 of hiking. My room wasn't too hot last night. I cranked open the window and got a lighter blanket from the owner. The heat must have gone off in the drying room.The bed was short and built in between two walls so it wasn't the most comfortable bed. I have had better sleeps. I wonder if I had been with a booking agency whether I would've gotten a better room. On the other hand some people with booking agencies had to stay outside of Keld. Onward ever onward.

    The debate at supper was what route to do. The upper route or the lower route. It seemed that people were going to do the lower route because they assumed it would be easier. A guided group was staying at the Keld Lodge, I think British Walks. I asked their guide which route to do and he said that his preference was to do the upper route. He thought the lower route was only a little easier but preferred the scenery of the upper route. There were ruins of various lead smelters along the upper route often in valleys. The ruins were quite beautiful however the whole lead mining industry in its day was probably a toxic unsafe industry to be working in. Pity those poor workers and their families suffering not only the dangers of mining but also the toxicity of a very dangerous heavy metal. There were also some very pretty waterfalls as all of the rain from the thunderstorm last night was running off the bogs.

    There was a 300 metre climb out of Keld followed by a descent into a river valley with some ruins followed by another ascent of 300 metres before a more gradual descent. It took me about 6.5 hours with lunch and 2 breaks. The book keeps saying the days are getting easier but I seem to be just as tired at the end of each day. I was passed once by the British Walks group when I got lost for ten minutes. When I got my navigation act together -ie looked at the phone more often, I moved faster than the BW group and didn't see them for the rest of the day. It was be tough moving with a group of 9. In fact I didn't see anyone doing the C2C today just some day hikers coming my way. The GPS did let me down coming into Reeth. It took me through some farmers fields which wasn't right and I think the route has probably changed since the GPS map was set. I still made it into Reeth and I am staying at the Buck Inn.

    The C2C trail is not well posted. Rarely there is a sign. There are so many hiking paths and bridle paths the C2C uses but none of them are marked C2C. Finally I saw a disc indicating the coast to coast today but it is the first one I have seen
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  • Hari 11

    Kirby Stephen to Keld

    12 Mei, Inggris ⋅ 🌩️ 14 °C

    Hurray. I have made it to Keld which is officially considered the half way point of the coast to coast trail. I have also crossed over the Pennines which are a hilly part of England separating the watersheds of western England from eastern England. The first part of the day was a gradual hike up to the top of the Pennines gaining 400 metres. At the top of the Pennines there are 9 large cairns made from stones that can be seen from the valleys below. They have been there for so long that no one remembers what their purpose was. Possibly to mark a boundary of different kingdoms. After a break at the top and a snack, I headed off towards one of the most potentially challenging parts of the trip which I had been worried about. The peat bogs of the Pennines. We don't have peat bogs in Edmonton but these are marshy/muddy areas which are difficult to walk through because one can literally get stuck in the mud. People can sink into the bogs up to their knees resulting in having a very messy day. Fortunately because we have had so little rain for the last week the bogs were the driest they have been for months. I was able to navigate without too much trouble. Once I stuck my hiking poles to check a rather boggy part and it sunk down a couple feet. I also managed to sink in once to my ankle when vaulting over one of the muddy areas. It was fun as the bogs weren't too boggy. I walked through the bogs and onto Keld with Nick a teacher from Brighton Beach. He is half camping and hoteling and carrying a full pack. He was camping tonight and as I type this blog there is an incredible thunder store going on outside so I hope he is staying dry. I pity the poor hikers coming across the Pennines tomorrow. I made it into Keld and had a snack with Nick and three women day hikers from Richmond who we had met towards the end of the day. Then off to the Keld hotel where I have been assigned a very warm room above the drying room. The owner says the drying room heat goes off at 9 so I should be all right.Baca selengkapnya

  • Hari 10

    Orton to Kirkby Stephen

    11 Mei, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I had breakfast with Ginny and Debbie before heading off on my hike by 8:25. My first goal of the day was to get some cosmic energy from the Orton stone circle which was on the way out of town. After trying some new yoga poses, I continued my walk only to discover Joy and David an Australian couple who were lost. The app that they had was taking them back to the main C2C route not the Orton bypass route C2C that we were on. I got them headed in the correct direction before heading of at a slightly faster rate. They caught up to me twice and at Benton farm we chatted a little. It was another 20 k of undulating terrain through meadows of grazing sheep, three horses and some cattle. I got into Kirkby Stephen by 1:30. I am staying in a hostel that was constructed in an old Methodist church. There was no one here when I arrived but there were instructions on the door. I wandered around the place by myself finding my room and trying to find the laundry which the guide book said they had. I really had to do some laundry. The town had a laundry nearby so I headed off there to do my laundry which was difficult to find as it was in a courtyard not on the street. It was an hour to get it done in one load and I should be good now for another week. I also cleaned my shoes in the shower as after a day of walking through pastureland they were covered in sheep shit. Headed off for supper at the Mango Tree Indian restaurant where I met Peter and Nicki, Seattlites and they invited me to sit at their table which was very nice.

    My body is holding up okay. My back bothered me the first few days and since yesterday I think I have some planter fasciitis. I keep doing stretches off the Internet. Hopefully these aches and pains won't worsen.
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