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- Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 10:32 AM
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 662 m
CanadaHodgson53°27’46” N 113°33’13” W
Alone

This summer I will be travelling to Scotland solo for my summer holiday. For the last 16 years since my oldest son Christopher was a baby we have gone on a family vacation but not this summer. Christopher my oldest son will be attending Camp Thunderbird in Sooke BC for nine weeks as a volunteer camp counsellor. He has attended Camp Thunderbird as a camper since age ten and it has always been his ambition to be a counsellor. Cheryl and my youngest child Madeline will be heading to Scotland in August with her Scottish dance club Celtic Ceilidh to take in some dance competition and attend the Edinburgh tattoo before heading to Ireland. Andrew my middle son was going to come to Scotland with me as he didn't want to go with his sister's dance group. When he realized that I wanted to hike the hundred mileWest Highland Way over 9 days he ditched me to attend the Mountain Adventure School in Nordegg for two weeks at the beginning of July before heading to Camp Thunderbird in August. This summer I will be alone for my holidays.
I will be flying out June 21 on Iceland Air through Reykjavik Iceland and then onto Glasgow. Normally there has been a tight connection in Reykjavik but this year I have a 3.5 hour layover. Maybe flying through Toronto wouldn't have been that bad. I'll spend 4 nights in Edinburgh before travelling to Milngavie which is the start of the West Highland Way just a little north of Glasgow. I will hike the 100 mile WHW over 9 days. I'll be staying in B and Bs and having a luggage transfer service move my luggage but it is still a lot of hiking. The WHW finishes in Fort William. I will rent a car for four days and drive 2 hours up to the Isle of Skye which is Northwest of Fort William for three nights. I had considered going to the the Isle of Mull which was a little closer however this would have meant a visit to Duart Castle home of the clan McLean. Duart Castle has unfortunately fallen into ruin because the clan members have not been able to support. I didn't want to develop negative feelings towards the clan McLean for allowing this to happen. Skye therefore seemed like a better option. After Skye, I'll stay one night in Glencoe before dropping the car off in Fort William. After that I will spend one night in Glasgow and two in Manchester.
I have been doing a lot of walking these last 6 months in preparation for my hike. Saturdays I have been hiking between 16 and 18 km, Sundays I have hiked 10 km, Monday has been a rest day , Tuesdays I have walked and LRTed to work for a total of 14 km, Wednesdays I have run 10 flights of stairs at Grandview, Thursdays have been walk and LRT to work for another 14 km and Fridays have been a rest day. I have listened to a lot of podcasts during this time and seen a lot of the Edmonton river valley. I'll post some photos with this blog of some of my favourite things I have seen hiking over this time. My longest day of hiking will be 24 km which they recommended one get up to in their training but alas I didn't have the time to hike for this long. I still had children to drive around yard work to do, work to go to and violin practicing to do.
I found that last year people assumed that they would get email notifications when I posted a new footprint but unfortunately Finding Penguins doesn't work this way. Starting June 21, I will try to post at least every other day so please register for the website and check in every few days.
to end this foot print I thought that I would quote a Scottish travel blessing which you can say to wish me farewell on my journey.
"God be with you at each stop and each sea;
At each lying down and each rising up;
In the trough of the waves, on the crest of
the billows.
Each step of the journey you take."Read more
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- Friday, June 21, 2019 at 3:34 PM
- 🌧 16 °C
- Altitude: 724 m
CanadaIrvine Creek53°21’42” N 113°32’6” W
Keflavik Airport

Uneventful trip to Keflavik airport. My flight left at 6:20 pm from Edmonton. Cheryl dropped me off at Century Park where I caught the 747 bus to the airport for 5 dollars. Very convenient. I got a little shock at check in. I had booked the ticket in September. Previous trips we have just taken carry on and done some laundry. When I booked the flight I thought I would just do the same. As the trip approached I realized I wouldn't have access to laundry during the hike so thought that I should bring a little more clothing. When I checked in the luggage fee was an astonishing 126 dollars. Had I paid in September it would only have been 63 dollars. So much for Iceland Air being a discount airline.
The plane was a 757. Very nice plane, smooth ride not a lot of vibration. Nicer then the 737 and the airbus. I still didn't fall asleep for longer then a few minutes. It is now 7 am in Iceland, 1 am at home so I am a little jet lagged. My flight to Glasgow doesn't leave for 3 hours. It is a sunny day in Iceland which is a first. I will attach some photos. My son Andrew wants me Vlog as well.
RobRead more
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- Saturday, June 22, 2019 at 10:43 AM
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 49 m
ScotlandCalton Hill55°57’30” N 3°11’30” W
Edinburgh

I have arrived safely in Edinburgh via Glasgow. I had a three and a half hour lay over in Iceland. Iceland Air is pretty good for short layovers. The majority of the people left on outward bound flights after an hour. The airport went from being supper busy to ghost like. I nodded off for a few minutes. After two hours it became frantic again. I took the 500 bus in from the airport and I was befriended by an elderly couple who turned out to be a retired Presbyterian minister and his wife from the outer Hebrides. They insisted on helping me find the 900 bus to Edinburgh. God was looking out for me I guess. My Air BnB was only a short walk from the bus station located in New town. The Air BNB is wonderful. It is on a quiet side street . It is a one bedroom apartment with a fully stocked kitchen and a very comfortable bed. I fell asleep at 9 and woke up at 8. I did a self guided walking tour through New town last night also known as the Zombie walk as I was quite tired from the trip.
Today I did a bicycle tour of part of Edinburgh led by a restaurant owner. I met him at his restaurant the Smoke Shack and we peddled for about 12 miles including making it down to Lith on the North Sea. It was a little light on the history but lots of interesting information about running a small business in Edinburgh. I was the only one on the tour. I had contacted him in advance to see if he would run a tour on Sunday and he had generously agreed to. I think he was bored of running the restaurant. He had run various bars and nightclubs so he had lots of stories to tell. He also ran two air BNB properties in Edinburgh and one in Austria. His restaurant was 1 block from where I was staying so it couldn't be more convenient. After the ride I had a cup of tea with him before he had to dash off to his next business venture.
In the afternoon I headed off to the national gallery beside Waverly station. It was a small gallery but hit pretty high with some notable pieces. When I visit galleries I try to concentrate on their notable works first and if I have the time and energy I will go back and look at the other paintings. They had a number of renaissance paintings by Botticelli and Raphael. There was a self portrait by Rembrandt. I guess he painted about 150 so what's a gallery without a Rembrandt. Of their impressionist paintings, the most famous was probably Sargent's Lady Agnew of Lochnaw. A very striking portrait. The very knowledgeable and engaging docent explained that the reason it is so striking is that her head is painted with total realism but the rest of the painting is smudged or indistinct.
I had thought that the gallery would have taken a little longer but it didn't so I headed off to the queen's palace in Edinburgh known as Holyrood palace. It is at the far end of Royal Palace opposite to Edinburgh castle. I was fortunate to have headed off today as the queen herself is showing up tomorrow for the Royal week including the Royal garden party. The queen and members of the Royal family meet important Scottish people at the garden party. The palace was built on the site of a Abbey where Scottish royalty had been living in off and on from the 11 century. The present castle had been built in the 16 and 17 century. There was an excellent audio tour. Notable occupants of the castle included Mary Queen of Scots and for a short period Bonnie Prince Charles. After the tour you were allowed to walk on one path through the garden but you had to stay off the grass. I wondered whether I could see the current Prince Charles off in the garden weeding. Prince Charles prides himself on being a master gardener but has come under criticism as supposedly he doesn't like to get his hands dirty or actually do any of the work . His expertise lies in organising the gardeners. I wanted to ask him how he kept the weeds and grass out of his Thyme walkway. Alas as I wasn't allowed to walk on the grass to go and ask him I will never know.Read more

TravelerThanks Rob. Brings back memories of Iceland. I remember Reykjavik as a pleasanr, if quirky, town. Great fish and likely the only place in the world where you can buy whale tacos!

TravelerOnce again I'm impressed by the dry humour, on point observations, and sarcastic wit. As beautiful as the woman in the painting is, it was the stuffed corgis that I appreciated most. 🐶 The selfies of you at Keflavik and mentally processing your baggage fee in Edmonton have a markedly similar appearance. Happy travels. Looking forward to the next installment.
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- Monday, June 24, 2019
- 🌧 13 °C
- Altitude: 42 m
ScotlandCalton Hill55°57’30” N 3°11’28” W
JK Rowling, Scottish Museum, Royal Mile

I have had a very two busy days. Monday they were calling for rain. In fact they had severe weather warnings in effect so I thought that I should stay inside. The Royal Scottish museum seemed to fit the bill. It was about a 20 minute walk from my place. It was misting and very foggy. Any views of Edinburgh were totally obscured. The Royal Scottish museum was absolutely huge. Prince Albert, Queen Victoria's husband had helped raise money in 1880 to build the building. Inside it was made of metal with sky light roofing. It was supposed to look like the Crystal Palace in London. I took two guided tours and hardly scratched the surface. I learned all about Scotland dating back to the pre Roman Scoti and Picti tribes, the effect of the Roman occupation on Scotland, the Norse who controlled northwestern Scotland after the Romans left, the Normans, Robert the Bruce, the Stewart dynasty and Mary Queen of Scots and the Jacobites. I have always had troubles keeping track of the English monarchy but it gets even more complicated when they started marrying each other and killing each other. Other curios included Dolly the cloned sheep, Ghanian coffins, Scottish camels and the millennium clock. By about 2 I had to flee the museum as I was just getting everything muddled up. I realized that I was in Blackfriars which is where JK Rowling of Harry Potter fame would hang when she was writing. Also home to Blackfriars Bobby the dog. Some of the character's from HP names are drawn from names on the graves in Kirkyard cemetary. Herriot school a prestigious private school is located beside the cemetery and was the inspiration for Hogwarts. Although I never was that into the series, my kids and one of my close colleagues loved the story so I felt compelled to go. Lots of tours being led by witch-like people wearing black and wearing capes. Elephant Cafe where she wrote some of the books was absolutely packed. I still had some energy left so I thought I would check out the entrance to Edinburgh castle for Tuesday and the Royal Mile which connects Edinburgh castle to Holyrood Palace. The RM especially around the castle was just crawling with people. I learned today when I visited the Edinburgh castle that in August it gets even busier. This time of year there are 6 thousand guests at the castle daily but during the Festival it hits 20000. They told me that there isn't even space to move. After checking out the castle entrance. The RM consisted of kilt shops, tweed shops, whiskey shops, gift shops, Harry Potter shops which seemed to just repeat themselves for th Royal Mile. After walking about half of the mile I had had enough and headed off to my Air BnB to call it a very full day.Read more
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- Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 6:55 PM
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Altitude: 47 m
ScotlandMilngavie Railway Station55°56’31” N 4°19’2” W
National Portrait Gallery

After the Edinburgh castle I decided to check out the National Portrait Gallery as it was only a short walk from my accommodation. It was really quite good . It contained portraits of notable Scottish people of which there are many. I was lucky enough to tag onto a docent led tour for a group of U of Pitt university students who were in Pittsburgh for a study abroad month. The docent led us to all of the notable Scottish writer's portraits and lead a discussion about each of them. Robby Burns, Walter Scott and Robbie Louis Stevenson were all covered. I felt that I was back in school again. I don't think the students knew how lucky they were to have been there. I also enjoyed the portrait of JM Barrie the writer of Peter Pan. I love the movie about JM Barrie and the writing of Peter Pan called finding Neverland. It is very touching. Lots of wonderful portraits of noble Scots. I capped the visit off with a cup of tea and a lemon chocolate coconut square in the cafe but felt that I deserved it after such a busy day. One can make it out just behind the pot of tea in the photo.
After supper I hiked about 20 minutes from my flat up Carleton hill to command a nice view of the city. It was an easy walk and well worth the view.Read more
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- Tuesday, June 25, 2019
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Altitude: 83 m
ScotlandEdinburgh Castle55°56’56” N 3°11’60” W
Edinburgh Castle

Today was the day to visit Edinburgh castle. It had been recommended to get an early start so I purchased my entrance ticket for 9 :30. When I arrived at the entrance at 9:15 there was already a very long line. They let everyone into the grounds in front of the castle where the Edinburgh tattoo is held. It was large enough to hold us but the space was surprisingly small for hosting such a large event. At 9:30 they let us into the castle. I had signed up for the audio tour which lead one throughout the castle describing events from Scottish history. Stories of Scots fighting Scotts and the English. For much of the history the castle had been occupied by the English. The Scottish had always been smart enough to find the hidden pathway up to the castle where it was easy to scale the walls and overcome the English. One thinks that the English would have caught onto this trick. How many hidden pathways could there have been. After it wasn't required as a fort it became a garrison for Scottish regiments and at times a prison for enemy soldiers. There was a nice exhibit of what the prisons had been like during the American revolution. The audio tour made it sound quite rosy and fun. The French soldiers had been able to counterfeit Scottish bank notes by making stamps from bones and dyes from plants and animals. It seemed quite incredulous but they showed examples of forged notes and the stamps they had made. I couldn't tell the difference. It is incredible what one can accomplish when on has alot of time on one's hands I think that during the Victorian era the castle had been extensively improved and remodelled so one really doesn't know how similar the building is today to when the Scots were fighting over it. At the citadel a war memorial to those who fell during WWI had been built following the war. Scotland lost 148000 soldiers during WWI. One could walk through the building and see the Coat of Arms of the various regiments with the battles they had been involved in. It was very touching. The Canadians of the Black Watch were mentioned with the the Scottish Black Watch. There were also three or four regimental museums at the castle and a museum of war. Some of these regiments were 400 years old so they had a lot of history. There was a lot of interesting stuff. They had the original paintings depicting the Thin Red Line and the Defense of the Hougemont gate at the battle of Waterloo. I am worried that my wife Cheryl who is coming to Edinburgh in August with Madeline and who has a penchant for Military museums will never be able to leave the castle. Reading all the exhibits would take days. I lasted at the castle for about 4.5 hours but there is only so much fighting, killing an maiming one can handle in a day so I left for some culture at the National Portrait Gallery.Read more
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- Wednesday, June 26, 2019
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Altitude: 88 m
ScotlandUniversity of Edinburgh55°56’48” N 3°11’6” W
Something completely different

Today I was a little sad but also a little excited as I was leaving Edinburgh to take the train to Milngavie to start the West Highland Way. I really enjoyed my time in Edinburgh and probably could have spent a few more days here as there is just so much to see and do. It is always a good sign when you leave a place with a little regret. I still had a morning though before I had leave. My good colleague, a professed Scotsman, Dr Ross McLean had recommended a visit to Surgeon's Hall. Surgeon's Hall is a museum dedicated to the History of Medicine in UK. The museum took one through the early days of medicine starting in about 1600. We have certainly come a long way since the time of blood letting. I don't think the early physicians could offer much. I think they filled much of their time doing anatomy prosecutions some of which were preserved by paint and lacquer. Major breakthroughs were anaesthesia and sterile technique. During the Napoleonic wars approximately 90 per cent of people having surgery died of infection and sepsis. The museum also included a pathology museum which was a real treat. Surgical specimens and individual diseased organs from autopsies were preserved in square glass containers immersed in formaldehyde as teaching examples for students. They were an excellent means for teaching but very labor and time intensive to maintain. The formaldehyde had to be changed regularly. The specimens were also collected before the days of consent which has always cast some legal/moral issues on maintaining them. There was an excellent collection in Regina when I was there but the director was never sure what he should do with it and didn't have the resources to maintain it. I wonder if is still there. If a surgical pathologist can't enjoy a pathology museum, I don't know who can. Lots of specimens of very advanced tumors that we don't see anymore. Lots of advanced infection and rare infections that we wouldn't see with the advent of antibiotics. We truly live in a gifted time. There were also lots of specimens we still commonly see. Sorry no photos of the museum. It' against the UK tissue act and probably in bad taste. After a fun morning of death and disease I headed over to the John Lewis department store close to my BNB for a hardy lunch. John Lewis was a department store which had modern items but seemed a throwback to the 50s or 60s. I had bought an adaptor plug there the first day. They actually had sales people to wait on you and who seemed happy to help. The store offered pretty well everything and was actually busy. They even had a restaurant on the top floor offering hardy meals. I had a delightful Sri Lankan curry for lunch and enjoyed a wonderful view of downtown Edinburgh. It was surreal. After lunch I retrieved my luggage and heade off to Milngavie on the train for my next adventure. After checking into my BNB I headed to the start of the WHW for some photos and to check out the start.Read more

TravelerSounds like you are doing a lot of "hardy" eating. Good thing that you will be walking it all off. Loving the details in your blog!
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- Thursday, June 27, 2019 at 1:52 AM
- 🌙 10 °C
- Altitude: 52 m
ScotlandMilngavie Railway Station55°56’30” N 4°19’6” W
Milngavie to Drymen

If you are ever flying into Glasgow and your plane almost clips a BNB situated on a promontory just north of Glasgow on it's landing descend, you will know where I stayed last night. Glasgow airport also doesn't seem to have night time landing restrictions. Throw in the fact that the room was warm because Scotland is having a warm spell and the Scottish houses are designed for cold weather and not hot weather, I didn't sleep that well. I really struggled out of bed in the morning. Fortunately I was met with a very hardy breakfast and headed off to start the WHW. I snapped an additional photo of the start marker and I was off. After about 15 minutes I caught up to two couples who looked like they were from the US from the way they were dressed. I said hello and asked them where they were from and they replied Calgary. I looked more closely at them and realized that one of them was an old medical school classmate from my days at Western University. I said I know you, you're Winnie Meeweise, we went to school together. He looked very surprised. I said I'm Rob West we went to Medical School together. Winnie was someone I didn't get to know very well at University but probably should have. It's funny who you get to know in a large class and who you don't. Winnie works as a sports medicine doctor in Calgary now. He and his wife and friends are hiking the trail over 7 days while I am hiking it over 8. After chatting a little I hiked ahead as they were moving a little slower. They had flown in yesterday and I think were a little jet lagged. Hopefully we will cross paths again. The trail was fairly flat and followed some secondary roads. It was very well signed but I was happy to have the map. I checked it a couple of times to ensure I wasn't going the wrong way. I stopped to eat my lunch at the Glengoyne distillery. I had just missed the tour but as it was a hot day all the doors were open and I could look into the distillery and see much of the workings. Often I find these places have nice gardens which I quite enjoy. The grounds were well kept but no garden. I chatted with one of the workers in a storage area away from the main building as I came off the trail who was moving some large barrels. I asked him what one barrel was worth and he told me that one of the barrels in the building from 1971 had sold last week for a million pounds. It was starting to warm up so I pushed on through the countryside to Drymen taking some breaks in the shade along the way. I had left at 9 and made it into Drymen by 1:30. My BNB didn't open until 3 so I did a little blogging at the library. No blisters but I was a little tired.Read more

TravelerWhat a beautiful sunny day. Remember when we went on a hike in France and read the map in the opposite direction of the loop and were a bit lost? I could not have been as hot as that day!
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- Friday, June 28, 2019 at 2:32 AM
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 148 m
ScotlandDrymen56°5’6” N 4°27’54” W
Dryman to Rowardennan

Well today was a more challenging day on the WHW. It didn't help that after leaving town I turned in the wrong direction on the trail for about 100 metres before running into a mother and daughter team from Seattle who got me turned around in the right direction. They were quite chatty and moving at my pace so I stayed with them for the morning. The challenge for the morning was Conic hill which gave a spectacular view of Loch Lomond. The Seattlites had done a lot of hiking and they went up the hill like mountain goats. The hike veered to the side of the summit but they cajoled me into hiking to the very top. Even more spectacular views. Heading down the other side into Balmaha there were some day trippers heading up from the other side. A woman carrying a baby and another woman wearing sandels. We have a rule in our family that if you see someone doing a walk with a child carrier or flip-flops it is not really a true hike. In this case I would argue that they were only doing part of the days walk and they hadn't walked from Dryman so I don't think that you can apply the rule. By the time we reached Balmaha, I was having difficulty keeping up with the Seattle girls. They were going to stop at a restaurant for lunch whilst I had brought something from town so I took my leave from them and went and had a rest in the John Muir park. My right second toe was bothering me and when I took off my boot I realized that my nail which needed trimming was rubbing the end of the boot and becoming sore. There was no drugstore in town but the shop sold nail files and trimmers and I was able to rectify the situation although the nail was still a little sore. My fear has been that I will develop a blister but so far things have been fine. I continued the hike up the lake to my left and things were pretty flat but every time there was a peninsula the trail went over quite a large elevation. It has also been quite warm here about 26 degrees Celsius so I was getting quite hot. I think that I drank about 3.5 litres of H20 over the course of the day. Before Ross Point I hit a beach area/campground where I had to have a rest on a picnic bench. By then I was really drenched with perspiration. After Ross point which I took very slowly it was a flat walk to the Rewardennan Inn. After checking into my room, I changed and went for a swim at a beach next door at a lodge. The Meeweise clan and the Seattlites were all staying in the same place so we all had supper together on the patio of the hotel until the midges got the best of us. I went to bedRead more
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- Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 2:59 PM
- ☁️ 22 °C
- Altitude: 35 m
ScotlandInverarnan56°19’50” N 4°42’59” W
Rowardenen to Inverranan

You are all probably aware of the Scottish Song " I'll take the high road and you'll take the low road and I'll be in Scotland before you. For me and my true love will never meet again on the bonnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond". It is actually a code about the WHW. It means that one should take the high road when walking around Loch Lomond because it is easier and if you take the low road it will take you a very long time. My plan for the day was to stay on the high path which was a nice flat forestry access road and over 4 k would be very easy. Clan Meeweise I knew would take the low road as would the mountain goat Seattlites. My plan was to leave early so I wouldn't have to lose face with my cohikers. I left at 7:30 after a very hearty breakfast at the Rowardenen hotel. It was also supposed to pour in the afternoon so the earlier I got going the less rain I would have to deal with. Two days of no rain was pretty unprecedented on the WHW. Thing went very well at first but then shortly after taking a steep drop in elevation things became much more difficult. Up and then down. It was what I imagined of the West Coast Trail. I decided that my plan to take the easier trail whenever it appeared was a very good idea. I would just have to persist until then. After a good two hours of up and down hiking I met another hiker who was packing up his tent after the night and I asked him how far to the high easy route. He told that I had missed it a good 2.5 km back and that it would be easier staying on the lower path rather then back tracking as they joined up in another 2 km. I could have cried. He said the consolation was the better view and the bragging rights so I persisted. Obviously the Scottish keepers of the WHW didn't want people whimping out taking the easy route so they hadn't marked it. The has to be some motchoness with doing this hike. Despite being a very popular trail I really felt alone much of the time while hiking the low road today. I passed ancient abandoned buildings the forest was reclaiming. Parts of the forest were very quiet and when one got away from the water a little eerie. I went a very long time without talking to anyone. I met some Germans from the Black Forest of Germany. I told them that my Great Great Grandmother Finkbinner who had been from the Black Forest and that in my mother's estate I had been bequeathed a very ugly blue plate from my G G GM which looked to have been mass produced in 1895 and has lost all of it's paint and if I didn't know better could actually be plastic. I told them that as it had been mentioned in my mother's will that it was probably very expensive and probably should be in a German museum. I offered to mail it to them but I think they thought I was crazy. So much for trying to reprieve valuable treasures to their homeland. I met some portly and very friendly English who were spending their summer hiking while their wives drove the car and spent their money. They were friends from the Rotary club. They expected to do 1000 miles this summer. This part of the trail was very treacherous just up and down. The Englishmen were moving very slowly. Like turtles. I kept going. I finally found a flat area for a break and a very chatty English couple called Jackie and Andrew came up and started chatting to me. Somehow the knew I was from Canada. My MEC hat, shirt pants socks and backpack had given me away. Their son lived in Cochrane just outside of Calgary so they were well familiar with MEC. I walked and talked to them for about 2 hours. They were hiking from Dover in the very south to the Orkney Isles. They had been at it for 2.5 months. They were equipped with two cars so would leave a car at the end of one segment and drive back to start the segment. They would stay at the same accommodation for a week and hike the segments in that area before moving on. They had one month left. I asked them which part of the route they liked the best and they felt it was a toss up between a stretch in England and the WHW which made me quite happy. They had also hiked Hadrian's wall and felt that the Way was much better. There was only about 3days of hiking on the wall which was good and could probably be done as day hikes which I will have to remember for the future. They were going to take a break at the top of the lake by a herd of ferrel goats. The midge situation was quite bad so I pushed on leaving Loch Lomond and slowly starting my ascent into the Scottish highlands along the Falloch river. The rain had pretty well held off but then started very lightly. I made it into Inverarnan by 2:30 after pretty well 7 hours of continuous hiking. Was I ever tired as I sat down in the pub to wait for my room to be prepared. I must have drank 3 pints of water. Within minutes of my sitting down it started to pour rain. I had made it in just in the nick of time. I joined the Meeweise clan for supper in the bar before a well deserved sleep. Grant of the Meeweise clan has been having knee problems. Fortunately his wife Carol is a physio, Winnie is a sports doctor and Mary Beth is a kinesiologist so he is getting lots of attention. Every time I see him however he is sporting an additional piece of sports tape on his body. If this continues I think he will become a modern day version of the Tin man from the Wizard of Oz.Read more
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- Sunday, June 30, 2019 at 5:07 AM
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Altitude: 184 m
ScotlandCrianlarich56°24’42” N 4°39’36” W
Inverarnan to Tyndrum

Today was a day of rain. Not like yesterday afternoon when it had rained terribly hard but it was a constant light rain. This morning I felt tired. No blisters or specific joint or muscle pain but I just felt tired. I had a very hearty breakfast. They say you burn 100 calories for mile walked. The Seattlites ( Carol and her daughter) left before I had even got my food. They had stayed at the Drover's pub and had not been too pleased by it. It was old and noisy and they hadn't slept that well. The Meeweise clan got a good 40 minutes start on me. I had decided I was going to take it a little easier. The path was again a gentle trail heading upwards gradually in elevation. I think the first one hour I tried every combination of clothing and coat and rain pants before settling on shorts with raincoat top. I needed a balance between rain protection but if I wore two much rain gear I would be hot. After finally getting the clothing right and having warmed up, I was able to start making good time. By 11:00 I had caught up to Clan Meeweise as we went through a forest on the valley side. Grant was moving a little slow. I walked with them for a little way before leaving them. I walked with a young couple from Portsmouth who seemed to be on their honeymoon. Two Swiss women were walking with their umbrellas. The had all camped at Beinglas Farm last night. The rain had been a little inconvenient but the midges had been relentless and unforgiving. They are exceptionally bad this year. I think they were all planning to stay in a B and B in Tyndrum. The prettiest part of the whole day were the very basic ruins of a monastery known as St. Fillan's chapel. Some signage by a small weather station reported that this spot was one of the wettest places in Scotland receiving 4-5 times the amount of rain received by Edinburgh. It rains her 280 days a year. I sat and ate my lunch her and as I wasn' t moving got a little chill. Finally I could pull out those rainpants I had been carting around for the last week. It was a 9 to 3 day of gentle hiking but I still required a nap when I got into my BnB. I joined up with the Seattlites and clan Meeweise for my last time on the trip. They are doing the hike over 7 days while I will take eight. When I booked the trip, I wanted to give myself a buffer if in the event of an injury, blisters or sickness. Things are going well so I probably would have been fine in 7. They will however have a 20 mile hike tomorrow while for me this 20 miles will be broken up into 7 tomorrow followed by 13 the next day. My last two days will be the same as their last two days. I will have a much more relaxed day tomorrow. I will miss the comraderie of the Seattlites and the Meeweise clan.Read more
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- Monday, July 1, 2019 at 10:38 AM
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Altitude: 153 m
ScotlandBridge of Orchy56°31’5” N 4°46’7” W
Tydrem to Bridge of Orchy

Today was my easy day. Previous days had been 14 miles but today was only a 7 miler. The majority of people were doing the hike over 7 days requiring them to do 20 miles today. I am sure that Grant aka the tin man will have even more tape on him by the end of the day. Here is hoping that he has a good day. I was fortunate to have caught Carol and her daughter Kaili just as they were leaving this morning for a photo for the blog. I didn't end up leaving Tydrem until 10 as to avoid the light rain. There was a store called the Green Welly where I stopped and wrote some cards for the boys. It's trade mark was a green Wellington Boot which the end had opened up to form a mouth. I should have got a photo but got caught up trying to find the smallest hidden mailbox in the village. No one seemed to know where it was. How can you hide a mailbox in a small village. Afterwards I just wanted to leave. As my father use to say in such situations: It's no wonder they lost the empire. Fairly gentle trail with only a very intermittent rain. I really feel that I am in the highlands now. Not as remote as previous days as one could still see the road and the railway line in the distance. I walked and chatted with two German women who were doing residencies in Orthopaedic surgery and Family. The one was doing her orthopaedic residency in Switzerland. Their programs did not seem as structured as our programs. You were hospital based and would move from hospital to hospital and city to city acquiring the required skills but it was your responsibility to co-ordinate the rotations and obtain the documentation. No academic half days. After only 2 hours and 20 minutes I reached the Bridge of Orchy. I ate a leisurely bagged lunch at the train station on the platform. It had been turned into a self serve train station and the buildings into a hostel. No one was around so I ate my bagged lunch on the platform looking at the mountains and watched the barn swallows. It was very peaceful. After an hour I wandered into town and checked into my Bnb. There wasn't much to the village, only a large hotel and a church and a few houses. No shops. I met a hiker in flip-flops carrying his hiking boots. On closer inspection his feet were a mess of blisters and bandaids. My worse nightmare. He had had to take the train up from Tydrem as he was unable to do anymore hiking. I guess his boots and socks had become wet and had started to rub and with camping things had never dried. His mates would meet him in Bridge of Orchy where they were planning to stop anyways. I was still a little tired so I had a nap, did the blog and then headed out to supperRead more
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- Tuesday, July 2, 2019 at 11:33 AM
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 224 m
ScotlandNorth Lorn56°39’5” N 4°50’29” W
Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse

Today was a hike through the Highlands away from the major roads. It was again spectacularly beautiful. It was on an old military road laid with stone which I found a bit uncomfortable to walk on. My hiking boots are not the heaviest. The hike from Bridge of Orchy to Inveron commanded a beautiful view of a loch on which there was a huge house. I waited at the top of this hike as someone walked up from the direction of Inveron so she could take my photo. I followed a hiker who was carrying a Tesco plastic bag rather then a backpack which seemed a little odd. He disappeared around Inveron. Maybe he was a local just off to work. Just after Inveron I met a fellow walking in his flip flops carrying his boots. He was from Edinburgh and was walking the way in 5 days which meant about 20 miles per day. His feet had become so sore and swollen because of his new boots that couldn't get his boots on so he was trying to do it in flip flops. His goal was to make it to Kinlochleven which was the stage I will do tomorrow. He was making good time but when he stopped for a break I left him. I briefly talked with some Israelites and some Dutch people. It is now day 6 so everyone is getting a little tired and less chatty including myself. The midges were also getting worse which prevented me from taking any long breaks. Coming into Kinghouse there was a sign advertising a Mountain Cafe at the Glencoe Ski Mountain. It was getting colder and starting to rain so I thought stopping for a cup of tea was in order. It was 200 metres off the trail. I was also curious what a Scottish ski resort looks like. Compared to our Rocky Mountain resorts it was quite small with one chair lift that I could see. I checked on line and they supposedly have 8 lifts and the greatest elevation differential in Scotland at 740 metres. The face beneath the chair lift seemed quite steep. I wonder what the snow is like. After my tea and a little look around I persisted on to the Kinghouse. I was quite surprised as the historic hotel I thought I was staying in was gone and had been replaced with a totally new one. Start time was 8:30 and end time was 1:30. I just chilled out in the lobby as they wouldn't let me into the room until 3. As I went to retrieve my luggage, I met Mr. FlipFlop man sitting on a picnic table outside. He had his socks off and his feet were visibly very swollen. He was chatting with a fellow who was offering to give him a ride but I heard him telling the fellow that he was going to persist. What dedication. I have now completed 72 miles of the hike and have only two days left.Read more
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- Wednesday, July 3, 2019 at 2:21 AM
- ⛅ 6 °C
- Altitude: 286 m
ScotlandNorth Lorn56°39’30” N 4°51’54” W
Kinghouse to Kinlochleven

The scenery is all starting to merge together. One day of walking is starting to look no different then the next. In fact looking at the photos I could just be staying in the same place and merely taking photos of the same mountains but from different directions surrounded by different amounts of cloud. The green treeless mountains surrounded by clouds and fog. I still think it is very pretty. I decided today that I don't think I could live in Scotland. It is too wet and cloudy and dreary. Sometimes I visit places and I think to myself how wonderful it would be to live in such a place but although I have enjoyed the ruggedness and beauty, I don't want to live here. My ancestors were wise moving to Canada. The hike today went through a mountain pass. It probably commanded the biggest elevation gain followed by a drop into the village of Kinlochleven. The toughest part of the walk was supposed to be the Devil's staircase. It certainly sounded very ominous but it was merely switch backs through a mountain pass. Although strenuous it was not as hard as many of the hikes we have done in the Rockies. It was then a long descent into Kinlochleven. I think descents are harder on the feet than ascents. I met a group of 19 Virginians spread out along the trail. I walked for a while with a young woman from London who was camping solo and trying to get a few miles out of Fort William by tonight so she would only require a mile or two hike to the train station. She will have done the hike in pretty well 5 days. She said she had blisters and was limping. She told me that she just wanted to finish. I imagine she was going to do 24 miles today. She was moving at a good clip so I just had to let her go. The campers and the five day hikers don't seem to be enjoying themselves as much as the 7 and 8 day BNB ers. I had expected to come across the flip-flop man collapsed in the heather and left for dead along the path but was fortunate not to have found him. Hopefully he made it the day before. Kinlochleven was a village dependent on an Aluminium smelter for its economic well-being. Water from an adjacent reservoir was diverted through pipes coming down from the pass generated electricity for the smelter. The smelter which had employed 700 people had closed in 1996 and we all know the economic story of one industry towns who's major employer shuts down. With WHW tourism things seemed to have bounced back a little. BnBs never replace heavy industry jobs. I don't want to live here. They did turn one of the smelters into a climbing gym and what was really neat was that one of the walls was a refrigerated ice climbing wall. It looked rather neat. I watched the women's soccer game last night with a Dutch couple and an American couple. I met them wandering around town and we planned to meet tonight to watch the Dutch play Sweden. I found a house decorated with lots of Garden gnomes. I love gnomes.Read more
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- Thursday, July 4, 2019 at 11:17 AM
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Altitude: 8 m
ScotlandFort William56°48’58” N 5°6’55” W
Kinlochleven to Fort William

Wow it is tough to believe but today was the last day of my West Highland Way hike. The BnB I stayed in last night was fine. I had a good night's sleep. It had seven rooms. I don't know why retired people take on such a burden in their retirement. The seemed a little harassed over breakfast but who wouldn't. Maybe my retired friend Ray will open a BnB to keep himself busy in retirement. My advice is to start small and do it as a hobby. The decoration was mid century clutter. They had hundreds of Doulton figurines. The owner drove a Land Rover but I not sure it would be worth it. I bought some sandwiches from a sandwich shop run by a very attractive hipster looking woman. She had been outside the afternoon before having a fag and she had given me directions to the BnB. The other option was the co-op grocery store but I owed her a favor and the town needed some major financial infusion. I not sure whether 5 pounds for sandwiches would be sufficient to rise the economy of the town however she seemed happy. She told me she had moved to Kinlochleven with her boyfriend from Glasgow who had grown up there and had opened up the shop 2 months before. Armed with a hearty hipster lunch and knowing that I had contributed to the economic well-being of a depressed town, I headed out . Immediately the trail climbed out of town for a good hour before leveling off on the pass. There were lots of people as traditionally everyone other than the campers do the Kinlochleven to Fort William stage on their last day. There are lots of day hikers and hikers only doing a few of the last stages. I met some Virginians from a group of 19 and wished them all a happy July 4, some retired British army soldiers with PTSD, a recent Cambridge graduate and more. There is a lot of comraderie on the trail, I try not to talk to people for too long. It was cloudy and overcast. I walked in my mustard hiking pants and red shirt for the majority of the time. Heavy rain was predicted for the afternoon but I got in before it started. There was a little light rain which I put my raincoat on but quickly overheated so took it off. I sat on a rock and ate my lunch with a beautiful view of the mountain pass with farmhouses and valley and sheep. It was very pretty. The descent into FW was on a logging road and not to steep. Once I hit the outskirts of town I walked for a long time on a sidewalk beside a road. I really wasn't use to being so close to traffic after eight days away from it. The path seemed to go on forever as it progressed into town. I got a little lost but eventually found the finish. There was a little line in the stone which I hopped over. I felt a little emotional. It is not often in my life that I have the opportunity to start something and through persistence see it through to completion in the course of a week There is a statue of John Muir sitting on a bench which it is traditional to have one's photo taken with on completion of the trail. Of course there were lots of people getting their photo taken who didn't look like they had walked even one segment of the trail and probably didn't understand the significance.
I enjoyed the hike. I think that I could have done it in 7 days. Compared to mountain hiking which is all I have experience with,it was easier. I think mountain hiking 15 miles per day would have taken things a few notches. That said I was blessed with good weather, no blisters and no musculoskeletal problems which had any of these arisen I would have been happy to have had an extra day to have completed the hike. I think the training paid off. I was tired at the ends of some days but not exhausted. I probably could have done it without training but it would not have been any fun. I don't think my son Andrew could have done it and I think that I made the correct decision insisting that he had to train if he wanted to come. As it is, he is at a white water canoe camp and it sounds as though he is having a better time there then had he come with me. My father who passed away from Parkinson's disease ten years ago had always wanted to do a multiday hike in the UK but ran out of health to accomplish this. I did the hike for myself but also in memory of old Ken. I wish that I could have done it with my Dad, we would have enjoyed doing it together. I bought a Mars bar today to celebrate my completion of the Way. My father loved Mars bars and I thought eating one would be a tribute to old Ken. Of course when I did finish the trail, I was very thirsty and I just wanted some water to drink. I will eat the Mars bar tomorrow for a treat and think about my dad.Read more

TravelerThis fox averaged 43 km per day Rob. For your next trip you should install a satellite tracking device and we can check your movements as you explore the possibility of wild canid migration from Europe to Canada through the Arctic. https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north/arctic-fox…
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- Thursday, July 4, 2019 at 12:36 PM
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 32 m
ScotlandFort William Railway Station56°49’12” N 5°6’6” W
Ross McLean BnB Fort William

It looks like Ross has beat us all to the punch opening up a BnB here in Fort William. He has even included a Canadian flag.
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- Friday, July 5, 2019 at 2:18 PM
- 🌧 13 °C
- Altitude: 34 m
ScotlandPortree57°25’1” N 6°11’40” W
Fort William to Portree

I did not have a good sleep last night. I was a little worried about the whole driving thing today. I got it in my head that the gas, brake and clutch pedals were mirror images of a North American car as they drive on the opposite side to us. This was not the case but one still has to contend with driving on the left and shifting gears oppositely. I picked it up and I had scoped out the night before how to get out of the car park at the train station and visualized the route. It was Fort William and the traffic wasn't too complex.
My first stop for the day was the Glenfinnan viaduct. It was made famous as it was featured at the beginning of the Harry Potter movies when they were taking the Hogwarts Express to school. There were two car parks and they were totally filled with muddles. For a while I didnt think that I would find a parking spot. I drove about 1 mile down the road and parked at the Glenfinnan train station and museum. I was there at 10 and the train didn't go by until 10:45 so I had a good amount of time to make down to the viaduct. The Harry Potter series is now going on 20 years old so those children have grown up and had their own children. There were a lot of people there. Everyone stood on a path going up a ridge looking out at the viaduct. When the train appeared there was this hush in the crowd. It was so magical. Ross you would have loved it. It brought back a lot of memories from when my kids and I rode the Train at Fort Edmonton. At that age they would have loved the train. I can't wait to get home to play with the Thomas the Tank Engine Train. I can't believe I wanted to give away. After wards I hiked back to the train station via a hiking path which commanded a beautiful view of Loch Shiel and the Glenfinnan monument.
Ever since I went to the Royal Scottish Museum, I have been very confused by Scottish history. This monument commemorates the spot where Bonnie Prince Charles in 1756? met some Scottish Highlanders who were on their way to watch the Harry Potter train. He was able to convince them to vote against Brexit and when they lost the vote they were so angry that they were involved in episodes of soccer hooliganism in England. Only some of the clans participated. The McLean clan did not. Some of the McLean clan were too busy running their BnB in Fort William and the other McLeans didn't show as they were embarrassed because their Durant castle was falling down. Does that summarise the situation correctly Ross. The Scottish people place great importance to this site and I hope I haven't offended anyone with my muddled interpretation of Scottish history.
I then drove on to Maillag to catch the ferry to Skye. There is a bridge to Skye but it was easier to take the ferry from Glenfinnan. By the time I reached Maillag it was raining pretty hard. I could see nothing from the ferry, just cloud and rain. Rick Steve's recommended the Talisker distillery for a rainy day. I checked their website and there were no tours available on the weekend. It was a difficult drive on some single lane roads and I was over taken twice but people driving Land Rovers far too quickly. When I found the distillery it was just overrun with tourists. The staff looked pretty harassed. The liquor was just flowing out of the place. I asked about a tour but they just said the tours were all booked and to just buzz off and leave them alone. I walked along the ocean to a pier but as it was raining so hard I couldn't even see the distillery. It was a waste of time.
I headed for Portree and my BnB. The isolation, bleakness and ancient feel to the island gives it a very interesting feel. I feel that I could be in a set for the Lord of the Rings. I made it to Portree and had some supper. It stopped raining so I walked around Portree. It was very busy and there were lots of tourists. The town had a nice Scottish feel to it. BBC could probably set a television show here. Drama or comedy I am not sure which would work best. I called it an early night. The bad night's sleep and the driving had worn me out.Read more
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- Saturday, July 6, 2019
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Altitude: 36 m
ScotlandPortree57°25’2” N 6°11’40” W
The Trotternish Peninsula

Today was the day to drive the most northerly peninsula on Skye. From the look of Portree the night before, it looked like it was going to be a busy on Skye. I decided that I would just head out as soon as I got up as typically I wake up at 6. As I had gone to bed last night quite early, I was up and away by 6:15 am.
My first stop was The Old Man of Storr. The old man of Storr is a huge pinnacle of granite rock which came detached from the adjacent mountain and has weathered over time. It is quite spectacular. I am sure that I have seen photos of it before and it has been used in the backdrop of movies. One could see the pinnacle from very far away. Rick Steve's book mentioned you could walk up and overlook the stonendimg but didn't really indicate whether or not it was worth it. I got there just as a hiker from Seattle was coming down. I asked him whether the hike was worth it. He told me that it definitely was and that he had gotten up at 1:30 to get to the rock to watch the sunrise. I met a Czech family coming down later with three young children. They had been at the stone at 4:30 am and when they arrived they reported a lot of people departing as the sunrise was over. There weren't many cars when I showed up. I walked up a path overlooking the stone which took me about 45 minutes. It was quite spectacular and well worth the walk. I was a little disappointed with RS. They don't want you going near the rock as they are worried about falling rock. There were a few people up by the stone including a young man in a kilt and his rolling luggage. I thought that I was imagining it. I pointed him out to a couple standing close to me and they were surprised too.
After the stone, Leah Gorge and Kilt rock. Spectacular lookouts at the massive cliffs on the coast of Skye. I occurred my first tour bus here.
I continued north onto a one lane road to the Duntulm Castle of the McDonalds. It felt very isolated and inhabitable. No tourists but lots of sheep. At some point they had abandoned it to move to the more hospitable southern part of the island which was very lucky for their ancestors as years later the new castle was located by the ferry terminal giving them an endless supply of tourists.
I then hit the Skye museum of island life. It was a great open air museum which consisted of thatched roofed stone farm houses which had been the traditional farm house. The farmers were called crofters. The thatched roofs were held down by stones. The one house had been occupied on the site until 1957 by a couple who had ten children. The others had all been moved from other sites on the island as people didn't want to live in them anymore and air BnB had not yet been invented. There must have been a lot of love. The house consisted of three rooms, kitchen and sitting room, parents room and the largest the parents room. My Air BnB isn't that much smaller. It described the hard life of the farmers. They worked very hard from sunrise to sunset. I think the island at that time had more agriculture then it does now. All I see now is pasture land for sheep. Then they were growing crops and raising animals. They didn't need a large house as they spent the majority of their time outside working. Some of the houses were set up to demonstrate weaving, blacksmith shop, cobbler and the fishing industry. A very sad display about a group of 28 territorial soldiers from the area who had gone off to fight with the Cameron Highlanders and only eight had survived the WW1. It must have been devastating for the island. I walked up behind the museum to a pretty little graveyard with a huge Celtic cross marked the grave of Flora McDonald who had helped Bonnie Prince Charles escape the English soccer fans. When I finished at the graveyard and made it back to the carpark it was now about noon and the carpark was packed.
I drove to Uig and then Quiraing on a single path road. Lots of traffic and it was very slow going. Quiraing is a hilly area that commands beautiful views of the northern peninsula. The carpark was overflowing and there was traffic chaos. I drove down the hill and parked at the entrance to a cemetery. I met two very pleasant Danish sisters and discussed the traffic chaos with them. They had been given a tip of how they could park where we had and still walk up into the Quiraing. I followed them and chatted about my trip last year to Denmark. We were able to hike up to a very pleasant view point giving a commanding view of the island.
By this time I had given up on driving one one lane roads. I drove a very long way from Staffin back to Portree and onto the Dunvegan Castle home of the McLeods. I only had two hours at the place but it warrented 3 stars while RS had only given it 2. It had a spectacular garden and the castle was beautiful. Very friendly docents. It reminded me of a Scottish version of Castle Howard in York. I wish I could have spent more time. I returned to Portree by 5:30 for a very solid 11 hours of sight seeing.Read more

TravelerThe crazy man is not wearing a kilt of appropriate length. Must be a McLeod and this speaks to the McLeod castle which does not possess the grandeur of the mouldy McLean of Duart castle

TravelerIf Rick Steves had his wits about him, he would hire you to edit his Scotland guide. It looks like your are in your site seeing glory. Good to see those big smiles in your selfies!

TravelerThe crazy kilt man and the unpublished man with a plastic bag suggest the Scots have not uniformly grasped the concept of using a backpack whilst hiking. I think a selfie with the crazy kilt man would be a nice touch perhaps zooming in on his eyes to get a possible glimpse of his mental status. Presumably too late for this.
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- Sunday, July 7, 2019
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Altitude: 35 m
ScotlandPortree57°25’1” N 6°11’39” W
Neist Point Lighthouse

I didn't get going as early this morning but was away by 7:30 am. I wanted to see more of the island which I thought I could by doing three small hikes. I headed up to the west part of the island close to the Dunvegan castle. After Dunvegan it was single lane all the way to the Neist point lighthouse. There was no traffic coming out but it was still slow going. In places there were sheep and their lambs just lying on the road. When I made it to parking lot, I could see the lighthouse in the distance requiring a walk out onto the penninsula with massive cliffs on either side. Steps down from the car park had been constructed from concrete as had a path. It all felt very institutional. The lighthouse was surrounded by large buildings, I suspect had been used for military function during WW2 as there was a commanding view of the ocean looking out to the Outer Hebrides. There was tremendous bird activity on the adjacent cliffs. Birds were just soaring on the vectors of the cliffs. I watched one gull soar for several minutes without flapping its wings. Sometimes one can see whales and dolphins off the coast from the lighthouse but no such luck. When I finished at the lighthouse I walked back up the steps to the car park and out to a concrete observations structure which also probably dated back to the war. It commanded even a better view. I imagined how lonely it must have felt back in WW2 at this post watching for German subs.
I headed back to Dunvegan. A lot of traffic was flowing in to the lighthouse making the single lane very busy. The sheep had been replaced by vehicles. I wonder how many get hit by cars. At one point a farmer had set up some type of feeding bin by the road and all of his cattle were congregating by the road. I felt I was in a cattle stampede. I was happy to have a Ford Fiesta. Lots of Europeans driving campers which difficult to navigate around. After a very long ride I made it back to Dunvegan where I visited the ancient church where many McLeods including many clan chiefs were buried. In 2000 the town's people had dragged this huge stone obelisk like stone onto the promontory overlying the church. Wonderful view from the top. I lost the path and ended the hike early
I started to head off to my last hike however the TomTom GPS told me it would take 1.5 hours. I somehow took a wrong turn when I thought the TomTom was wrong and ended up in Portree. It was still 60 minutes to the trailhead. I decided to do it tomorrow when I am closer to it when I drive off the island tomorrow.Read more
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- Monday, July 8, 2019 at 8:25 AM
- ☁️ 13 °C
- Altitude: 28 m
ScotlandRiver Coe56°41’21” N 5°6’23” W
Good bye to Skye

I had to leave Skye today and start heading home. These next 4 nights all involve my trip home. I guess that is what happens when you travel to remote places. That said I still had one more adventure on Skye. I decided that I still wanted to do the hike that I had missed yesterday. Round trip it was about 2.5 hours and it was only moderately difficult. It was called the Camasunary Bay hike and afforded a wonderful view of the Cuellin mountains on the south of the island. The night before I had wandered around Portree which had been absolutely packed with tourists from a Viking cruise liner. The hike to Camasunary Bay could hardly be different. I was at the trail head by 7:30. No one was there. I hiked up and over a significant rise which commanded a beautiful view of the bay a farm house and a bothy. A bothy is a building sometimes maintained and sometimes not for people to stay in overnight when out wild camping. This one was supposedly maintained, kind of like an alpine but. It was at the far end of the beach and I figured I didn't have to check it out. There were some tenters on the beach but all was very quiet. I snapped a few photos and then walked back to the car.
I had a 2.5 hour drive to Glencoe which is 30 minutes on the far side of Fort William. I guess I booked this B and B to allow me to explore the Glencoe valley. The drive was very windy and busy with traffic. When I did get there I was quite tired so I don't think I'll be exploring that much. The hike also tired me out. On the West Highland Way I also came through the valley so I had seen a fair amount of it alread,y. Perhaps returning the car to Fort William and staying there overnight would have been easier.
The one fun thing I did on the drive down was stop at Eilean Donon, castle of the McRaes. It had been totally destroyed by the English in 1719 during the first Jacobite rebellion. The had learned that it was harbouring Spanish soldiers. Upon capturing the castle they used Spanish gunpowder found in the castle to blow it up. Fast forward 200 years and the castle was bought by a John McRae-Gilstrap who was married to the English heiress of a malting empire. They spent 250000 pounds rebuilding a better castle then filling it with antiquities that they bought to fill. It was opened to the public in the 1950s and it is the quintessential Scottish castle. It was featured in the Highlander series and was in a James Bond movie. I think there is still hope for the McLean castle. The McLean chief merely needs to marry into some English money to rebuild the castle.
I am now at my BnB in Glencoe. I went for a walk after supper and just behind the BnB I happened upon Glencoe House, a huge mansion that had been converted into a swanky hotel. When I googled it I learned that this was the summer residence of Donald Smith also known as Lord Strathchona, founder of CP rail, last chief factor of the Hudson Bay, the person Old Strathchona is named after. The BnB was the gardeners and cook's residence. Small world.Read more
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- Tuesday, July 9, 2019 at 8:40 AM
- 🌧 13 °C
- Altitude: 22 m
ScotlandGlasgow Queen Street Railway Station55°51’48” N 4°15’6” W
Day of travel and rain

It was raining quite hard today in Scotland. In fact it rained all night as well. Of course I woke up too early and just lay in bed. I had breakfast at 7:30 and was away by 8:15. I got to the train station by 9. I had to have the car back by 9:30. My train didn't leave Fort William for Glasgow until 11:30 so I just had to chill out at the train station. I had planned on walking around but it was raining too hard. The train to Glasgow was very slow. It is only 100 miles but took 4 hours. It was following in parts the West Highland Way so it had to work very hard and it made multiple stops. It wasn't a long walk in the rain from the Queen Street Station to my hotel which is beside the Central Station. That will be convenient for tomorrow when I catch my train to Manchester. I did Rick Steve's walk of downtown Glasgow. Lots of nice shopping. I changed some Swedish Krona and Swiss Franc we had left over from previous trips at a Mark's and Spencer and ended up eating supper there. I think I am more tired on these travel days then on the hiking and sightseeing days. I am just chilling out tonight. Off to England and Manchester tomorrow.Read more

TravelersnotroH miT draws a blank for me Rob but I don’t get out much these days. Do they serve hipster beer with notes of banana? Its my new thing.

TravelerMy gosh... this is what happens when I dont have a reminder coming into my mailbox... I finally got to read about all your adventures. Love the pics, landscape, people you met, weather stories and the fact that I can learn all this while staying dry in my warm house. Sounds like very scottish weather you encountered. Interesting folks you met along the way. What an adventure!
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- Wednesday, July 10, 2019 at 11:29 AM
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 20 m
EnglandCastlefield53°28’31” N 2°15’30” W
Faster train to Manchester

I caught a 9:06 am train to Manchester. I booked well in advance. For an extra 10 pounds, I went first class. It was a treat. The 2 nd class was packed but hardly anyone in first class. I had an interesting conversation with a Scottish businessman heading dow to Manchester. He and his partners ran ski schools in Europe. Ski schools in Europe are independent of the lift operators. He had no idea what Brexit would bring, whether he would require visas for any of his employees. He said the uncertainty was crazy. At one point in his life he had been a Scottish nationalist but really wasn't sure that would work. He didn't hold out much hope for either Boris Johnson or Hunt? I let him get back to work and read the crime novel I had been dragging for the whole trip. I finished it so I can now ditch it. It wasn't that good. It seemed that as soon as I got into England, it stopped raining. Scotland was beautiful but I don't think I could live there as it rains too much and I was lucky to have not had that much rain on my trip. I made it over to my accommodation by 1 and left my stuff while I went and checked out the Imperial War Museum. They had some interesting stuff. I was so engrossed by the displays that I walked beneath a Hawker Hurricane jet suspended from the ceiling without noticing. They had JRR Tolkien's service revolver from WW1. A unique car from Eastern Europe that Jack may recognise. Part of the plane that Rudolph Heist had used to travel to England, part of the Twin Tower from New York. I lasted about two hours but saw pretty well everything. It would have taken longer with Cheryl. Media City where both ITV and BBC are located are very close to the IWM and I noticed walking by that they produce the childre's television show Blue Peter there. Blue Peter is a weely children's show that has been running since 1958. I remember watching it when I lived in England for a year with my parents. We even named our sailboat Blue Peter. It brought back lots of memories. Tonight I am just chilling out again as these travel days exhaust me.Read more

TravelerThis looks like a jet fighter. I thought the Hurricanes were single prop of similar look and vintage to the Spitfire. Also why the US markings?

TravelerThat is depressing. How much did that cost the IWM to acquire, or was it simply a donation?
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- Thursday, July 11, 2019
- ☁️ 17 °C
- Altitude: 38 m
EnglandCheadle53°23’24” N 2°13’55” W
Pigeon Lady and Manchester

I showed up at the Manchester Youth Hostel on Wednesday. The hostel had got really good reviews. I had booked a private room which was probably no cheaper than a hotel room. I typically have good experiences at hostels. There are often other single travellers to visit with and there are cooking facilities if you want to make a meal. When I was walking to the hostel I noticed that there was a fairly large music festival going on not very far from the hostel. When it started at 7 pm was it ever loud. When I checked into my room I noticed that there was an LRT line running on a viaduct about two stories above my window. There were also a lot of school groups staying at the hostel. This was the perfect storm for sleep deprivation I thought. I was told the music festival would end at 10:30 pm punctually. I thought that I would go for a walk to a nearby park and read my book to get away from the carnage at the hostel. St.John's park was the site of an old church and a sign read that they believed 22000 people were buried on the site. A little spooky to think that I would be enjoying myself on the resting place of that many souls. I chose a bench to sit on and started reading my book. For the first 5 minutes things went well but then pigeons started to show up. Initially as 1or 2 but then as larger groups. Before I knew it there were hundreds of pigeons surrounding me. Then the squirrels came. Several of them with big bushy tails. I really don't like pigeons and ever since I had squirrels in my attic, I have looked upon them as rats with tails. What was the universe doing to me. What had I done to merit this. Obviously they were looking for food but why me. I sat there for about ten minutes. The pigeons, the squirrels and I. I was too tired to move. I was even too tired to even worry about my risk of getting Cryptococcus neoformans from the pigeons. A type of pathogenic fungus that pigeons carry. I was just waiting for some lemurs with Echinococcus to show up. Something had to happen and it did. The pigeon lady of St. John's park showed up. This very disrumpled ancient lady entered the park with a large shopping bag. She heisitated when she saw me from across the park but realising who she must be I beckoned her over. She told me that she had been coming to the park for 30 years to feed the pigeons. She asked me to join in feeding the pigeons and pulled a five pound bag of bird seed so there I sat in the park feeding pigeons and learning all these interesting things from her. These were the healthiest pigeons that I had ever seen. These pigeons were her pets and she could distinguish them from each other. Pigeons in Manchester often only live a year but her pigeons lived on average 5 she thought. She said that she would even try to catch the sick ones and take them home with her to nurse back to health. No cages but an empty room with a linoleum floor. She was crazy in a kind pleasant way. She had been a school teacher- geography and Latin. She told me she was indebted to the Canadians as during WW2 the Canadian government had sent over hot chocolate powder. No one has ever told me that they were indebted to me. Her Uncle George had been a grain farmer outside of Regina but had returned during WW2 as Canadian soldier. He survived the war but she never saw him again. Her husband had died recently. I didn't have the heart to ask how. Pigeons are a cause of hypersensitivity pneumonitis. After feeding the pigeons, she pulled out the peanuts for the squirrels who we fed. Handfuls of peanuts. After she had a large bag of grapes for the blackbirds. We fed the blackbirds. She told me not to worry about the music as it always stopped at 10:30. Then she announced to me that she had to go and quickly left. Maybe to go off and feed some rats or other vermin. It had been all very surreal. I went back to the hostel, the music stopped at 10:30, the LRT wasn't that noisy and the children were well behaved and quiet. I had a good night's sleep. The universe had went from being out of control back into harmony all in a matter of a few hours. Why do I worry so much. Of course the incubation time for Cryptococcus meningitis is longer than a few days.
After a good night's sleep and a hearty hostel breakfast, I headed out for a Free tour of Manchester. You take the tour and pay what you want at the end. It was pretty good. We learned about the history of the city, industrialization, suffrage, unionists, the rock scene. The tour started at the Alan Turing memorial. A brilliant mathematician who helped solve the Enigma code in WW2 and build baby the first computer in Manchester after the war but was persecuted for his homosexuality and committed suicide. Sad story well depicted in the movie Imitation game, a must watch if you haven't seen it. Other highlights were the Midland Hotel where Rolls and Royce met for the first time and the Beckhams had their first date. The city hall with a cotton ball on top. The Lincoln memorial. Manchester refused to import cotton from the south during the civil war. A part of town Arnadale? Leveled by an IRA bomb in 1996? Vimto a nonalcoholic drink produced by Quakers in Manchester and now very popular in the Middle East. The tour went on for3.5 hours. I tipped Michael the guide very generously.
I was really starting to flag but I knew I had to make it to the Science and Technology museum home of the Robinson rocket which the first commercially viable steam locomotive and Baby the first computer built with Alan Turing help. Fortunately the museum was immediately beside the hostel. After a quick look around, I returned to the hostel having been on the go for 5 hours and had a well deserved nap.
It is now Friday and I'm sitting on my flight to Iceland. I successfully navigated my way to and through the airport. My holiday is pretty well done and I think this is an appropriate last blog. I had a memorable Pooh Bear adventure. I had an unrest cure. I saw some interesting things and met some interesting people. I completed my and my father's goal of a multiday hike in the UK. I am happy to be returning home. I need a rest.
At times I got a little lonely but writing the blog made me feel I was still in touch with everyone. I hope you all enjoyed it. I appreciated all the comments that people made.
RobRead more

TravelerRob, you have me howling with laughter. Great way to end the blog. Maybe you didn't need to go all the way to Scotland? I'm sure there are lots of park benches in downtown Edmonton for a going out Pathologist to feed the "vermin". I will see you in a halfs day.
Traveler
Beautiful Edmonton in June. Just remember, one needs to douse themselves in bug spray to enjoy this beauty.
Thomsen TravelsHi Rob,
Thomsen TravelsI predict with the amount of training you have done, the hike will be a breeze. “May the road rise up to meet you ...”