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Danube River Cruise
  • Pat Kaufman
  • Pat Kaufman

Danube River Cruise

A 20-day adventure by Pat Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 17, 2015
  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Prague, Day 1 Afternoon

    October 20, 2015 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We arrived, after a long flight. Lufthansa tried to make it pleasant. I suffered some vertigo on the flight which earned the privilege of being whisked through the huge Frankfurt and Prague airports in a wheelchair. And Georges loved the airfield tour as our own bus took us to our plane to Prague. We were the first passengers, treated very hospitably. It's so tempting to request wheelchair assistance for the return journey!

    The Intercontinental Hotel is large, American with no CHARM. But our comfortable room has a wonderful view and marvelous pillows and is beautifully located. While not as beautiful as New England, the trees do show some Fall color.

    We spent our first afternoon walking around The Old Town. The weather is overcast and chilly but our leather jackets are warm. The architecture is so beautiful and the central square is reminiscent of Brussels and Madrid.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Gourmet Prague, Day 1

    October 20, 2015 in Czech Republic ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    It wouldn't be a vacation without local food. Looking for a cappuccino break, we walked down an alleyway and found a wonderful candy and chocolate shop. Similar to fudge demoes in the States, we watched candy cane makers massage huge lumps of molton, multi-colored sugars into long canes and then chop it into bite size candies. The inside of the candies are wonderful patterns, similar to New York candies my friend Betty gave to Laura for her birthday. The other half of the shop showcases Belgian chocolates of all kinds. Walking around salivating we got a good chuckle from the porno shapes in a tear corner. But most importantly, they had HOT CHOCOLATE just like in Rome. After much debate over whether TWO hot chocolates would be too cloyingly sweet, we decided to share a large chocolate, a cappuccino and a tart, nicely balancing the sugar, caffeine and fruit!

    That fueled us for some more walking. Surprisingly, we were AWAKE! Georges watched movies the whole 9 hour flight but I slept. Coffee and a nice hot breakfast on the plane gave us a good start. We took a 90 minute rest before dinner , including a long soak in the large bathtub for me.

    Wanting "local" good, the concierge sent us to Vun... , warning us to bypass the vibrant bar scene, to the charming cellar restaurant. All kinds of house made sausages sounded great, but we settled on two Czech specialties: roasted goose leg and grilled pig's knuckle. OMG, we were in Foodie Heaven. The goose leg looked like a very large chicken leg, and was better than duck. The log knuckle could have fed four. I sent a nice portion if leftover back with the waiter, suggesting it would make a dog very happy. I enjoyed a Czech rose wine and Georges lapped up a Urquell pilsner. We ended on a high note with apple strudel (Ibi, Georges' mother made it much better) and two Czech brandies, which we hope to bring home.

    I had no trouble falling asleep. :)    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Prague, Day 2

    October 21, 2015 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Another overcast day. Fortified by the sumptuous breakfast buffet, we're setting out for more exploration. I just realized we can see the royal palace from our room.

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Dinner in a Palace, Day 2

    October 21, 2015 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    The Tauck tour officially started with a private dinner in the Lebcowicz Palace, part of the royal palace complex, said to be e largest in Europe. Dating back 900 years, the family lost and regained it and their other Czech properties, first to the Nazis and next to the Communists. The current Lebcowicz had the chance to reclaim the family estates after the Velvet Revolution in 1989. It's amazing that so much of the family art was recovered:, mostly stern portraits but also a Brueghel, Valezquez and two Canaletto landscapes featuring London. We enjoyed these artists in The Prado during our Madrid trip last year.

    But what moved me to tears were original manuscripts by Mozart, Hayden and Beethoven. and learning that we have Maximilian Lebcowicz to thank for some of our most important classical music. He met Beethoven when both were young men, and typical of the rich in the 17th century, he supported him with annual stipend, enabling him to compose what he wished, instead of by contract. Manuscripts from Beethoven's 5th Symphony and Eroica were on view, dedicated to his generous patron. This support was continued by Lebcowicz' son.

    But I'm getting ahead of myself. Before this moving tour of the family's private collections (not open to the general public), the evening started with champagne and wine, leading to dinner in a small ballroom, entertained by a string quartet. Dinner: tomato soup with Parmesan cheese and creme fraiche, chicken medallions with pea puree, potato terrine with thyme and wild mushroom sauce and ginger creme brulé with strawberry espuma (foam). At first I thought it to be a boring dinner but each dish was quite delicious.

    What a kickoff to the tour! We met six couples from Thailand and others from Portland, San Francisco and Coral Gables. Tomorrow, we have an early start (8:30am) to tour the city. I'll cover that tomorrow and say "goodnight" now.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Royal Prague Day 3

    October 22, 2015 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Headed for the Hadrany District, to the Royal Palace & Upper Town where the most privileged nobleman lived. Two hour tour through the cathedral and castle grounds, culminating at the Charles Bridge for those who want to follow the royal walk. We'd loved it yesterday so we got off and meandered back to the hotel. There we joined an afternoon tour of Jewish Prague. The history is fascinating and we were brought into two synagogues, one now a museum and the other exquisitely paneled, still in use.

    This evening we went to two classical concerts. The first, we thought would be in a church, but was instead in a room upstairs. It was very disappointing, being a saxophonist, a pianist and one singer. Upon leaving we walked past Smetana Hall, where the Prague Philharmonic performs. The timing was just right to catch the 8pm show and so we dashed in. The String performers presented the entire Vivaldi Four Seasons and Pachabel. It was wonderful. Afterwards, we went to a mussel restaurant... Nice atmosphere but so so mussels. We learned on the cruise that these landlocked countries do meat far better than fish.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Regensburg, Day 4

    October 23, 2015 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Heading out on brand new, spacious coach buses to the Danube port town of Regensburg. Beautiful countryside. Our tour guide on the boat intermittently filled the time with German history and tidbits about modern lifestyle. Regensburg is a well restored German town on the Danube. Spent the afternoon walking around, had some bratwurst and bought sweet mustards, said to be a local specialty.Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Bon Voyage

    October 23, 2015 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I didn't mention that today's weather is beautiful Fall temps. The countryside leaving Regensburg is picturesque. The ship stopped so we could take pictures of Walhalla, a monument to fallen German soldiers. We thought its an unusual location, but perhaps we'll learn more during tomorrow's history talk. Right now, were enjoying prosecco and Chivas during the Captain's safety talk.Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    The Ship! Day 4

    October 23, 2015 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    MS Savor is absolutely heavenly! Our room AND bathroom are spacious with plenty of drawers, two closets, numerous outlets and a Nespresso coffee machine. We chose this room because it features a loft, which houses table and chairs with a perfect water view.

    The ship itself is new with a beautiful cocktail lounge, a restaurant which can seat all 118 passengers, a smaller restaurant, a salon, massage room, sauna and steam room.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman
    1

    Passau Day 5

    October 24, 2015 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Known as the Venice of Bavaria because it is situated at the juncture of The Inn, Ilz and Danube Rivers, Passau has survived endless floods, most recently in 2013.

    Because it rained so much during the last couple of weeks, we could dock directly in town. ..unlike earlier tours which used buses more often because water levels were very low, after a dry, hot summer. I'm glad we didn't come earlier in the season!

    After breakfast we took a 90 minute walking tour, including the breathless Cathedral of St Stephen. Which is built in the Baroque style and has an exquisite interior of white ornamentation and Italian frescoes. The windows are of clear glass because they are smaller than large stained glass windows in Gothic cathedrals and must let in the light.

    The 17,388 pipe organ, the largest in a European Catholic cathedral, is necessary because the heavily ornamented interior absorbs much if the sound. We were surrounded by music during a 30 minute concert at the end of our morning because the organ has five sections: three along the rear wall, one near the altar and the fifth in the ceiling. This was quite a surprise treat from Tauck!    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    A Cruising Afternoon, Day 5

    October 24, 2015 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    After an Italian Coffee in the lounge, we had a delicious Bavarian lunch: a variety of sausages, sauerkraut, etc. The morning mist gave way to a beautiful sunny afternoon, which we enjoyed on the upper deck. Sweaters were enough for a while and spiked hot chocolate was readily available.

    We watched the ship maneuver one of 14 locks we'll sail through on the trip. Before the lock, the 13 foot drop would have surely disrupted our serenity. In fact. I'm writing this passage from the loft seated in my room. Being on the first/water level floor, I really feel the sensation of gliding through the water.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Linz, Day 5 Evening

    October 24, 2015 in Austria ⋅ 🌫 5 °C

    We arrived this evening in the port city of Linz, gateway to Salzburg a couple hours away. We'll go by bus tomorrow morning. Tonight we enjoyed the elegant Captain's dinner after being introduced to the crew while enjoying cocktails. Crab cake (amuse bouche), scallops over risotto ( starter), wild mushroom soup, chateaubriand, and a hazelnut mouse dessert. All with plenty of Austrian wine.

    Afterwards, we were entertained in the lounge by local classical artists pop laying a variety of Austrian music including Strauss, the Blue Danube waltz, Edelweiss and theme from Schindler's List, amongst others. Now, a nightcaps of Calvados and Grand Marnier will insure a good night's sleep before an 8am start tomorrow... Although, we do gain an hour tonight. :)    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman
    1

    Salzburg, Day 6

    October 25, 2015 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Left at 8am for a two hour bus ride to Salzburg through the beautiful Austrian countryside. Made a put stop at a restaurant area overlooking Lake M,___, where some of the Sound of Music was filmed.

    Salzburg, the Salt City built its wealth through salt mining over the last several centuries. Another claim to fame is the Mozart was born here. (He spent his adult years in Vienna.) We started the day with a 90 minute walking tour after which we had 3 hours before the return trip.

    Tauck gave 20euros to each of us for a lunch as well as coins for the toilets. We visited the baroque St. Stephen's Cathedral and a beautiful little cemetery. We shared fish stew and a smoked fish plate for lunch before touring Mozart's birthplace. Honestly, it didn't move me very much...collections if family portraits and brief histories if his family...the violin he played as a child, a few letters to his wife and some sheets of Music..but not original scores like we viewed at Libowitcz Palace.

    At this stop, we had the choice of Salzburg or Chetsky ______, a restored medieval UNESCO town, said to be impressive. But we felt like we'd regret missing Salzburg. The small, old town is pretty with pretty gardens best the Bishop's home, winding streets filled with nicely restored architecture and two cathedrals. I know I'm probably jaded by the beautiful Prague and the well restored Regensburg and Passau. I'm guessing that Tauck gives a choice here because Salzburg is part of their Alps land tour, which several passengers had already done.

    But, other travellers reported that the Chetsky was nice, but easily finishes by pm, especially since it started raining at 1pm. OK forgot to mention that Salzburg gets rain 200+ days a year. We were extremely lucky to have a sunny, sweater day.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman
    1

    Evening, Day 6

    October 25, 2015 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    The cruise director, Radu, took a group of us in a walking tour of Linz at 5:15. It turned out to be a very nice, contemporary town with charm and three cathedrals...two were open for evening rosary, so we unexpectedly got in. As with other churches, the interiors are beautifully decorated, one in rococo, the other Gothic. Mist importantly, it is the home of the Linzer Torte!!! But all the stores were closed, so no temptation to buy.

    We returned to the ship to have drinks with Ken and JoAnn, from New Jersey. Then we sat with Dale and Lon, from Coral Gables. We were all delighted to discover the Vanderbilt connection... Lon, a Urologist, his father and his son went to ,Vandy Med school. We talked well into the evening, continuing in the lounge for a mean game of Trivia. I as attribute my good sleeps to Calvados nightcaps!    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Durnstein, Wachau Valley Day 7

    October 26, 2015 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Darling medieval river town, famous for holding Richard the Lionhearted for ransom, captured during his return from the Crusades. However vet, they treated him like a guest, giving him the run if the town. After a 45 minute walking tour, those who were interested were taken into the monastary, with probably the best guide ever...and that's saying a lot since ALL the guides have been fabulous.

    The monastery is not only exquisite, in the baroque fashion, but contains two saints' relics (skeletons), gifts from the Pope at the time it was consecrated. The town is noted for its apricot products... A bottle of liqueur is going home with us. :)

    Georges joined the group hiking up to the fortress ruins. I browsed the cute shops with some of the women. The visit to Durnstein ended with a wine tasting of 5 surprisingly good Alsatian wines. Nothing like the sweet German wines imported into the states.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Evening on the Ship, Day 7

    October 26, 2015 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After cocktails for Georges and champagne for me, we enjoyed dinner with guests from Cincinnati: salmon tartare, lobster bisque, veal medallions with cepi mushrooms & polenta, dessert trio all accompanied by pretty good German wines.

    Tonight's after dinner entertainment is presented by the crew. Lots of fun! Many of the crew are Filipino, extremely gracious. Pamela greets me with a double cappuccino at breakfast. She told me the crew works for eight months and then has for months off when Tauck doesn't sail. She said she loves her job.

    The first act was from Indonesian crew playing When the Saints Come Marching In on bamboo instruments. Next, the bartender demoed cocktail making! Then the crew presented Black & White; a dance between the entertainment director & a beautiful staff member; a spoof about poor service; river dance; crew song finale.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Vienna, morning! Day 8

    October 27, 2015 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    9am, on the bus to Vienna, 30 minutes from the dock, with Guidy our guide for the next two hours. She has quite a clever wit, slipping in little political sarcasms within a constant stream of information about the Hapsburgs, Austrian taxes (42% avg), subsidiaries for mothers (unmarried women receive twice as much as married women, so young people are not getting married) and all the high end designer shops are doing poorly now that the Russians have left the city.

    We walked around the Hapsburgs complex, peaked into the Lippanzer Horse stables, and meandered through the center historic district. Vienna us a stately city with well preserved architecture.

    We enjoyed a traditional Viennese lunch in the historical Cafe Mozart weinerschnetzl, goulash soup, sacher Torte, wine and coffee.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman
    13

    Vienna, The Belvedere, Day 8

    October 27, 2015 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    After lunch, Tauck byssef us up to these Belvedere Museum, which had been the palace of Prince Eugene of Savoy, famous for driving the Turks out of Austria and preserving the Hapsburg rule. He was the son of Louis XV mistress, banished because he was a short, ugly hunchback. But apparently he was a brilliant military stategust and the Hapsburgs rewarded him with this and other palaces.

    The Belvedere contains a large collection of old masters (most unfamiliar to me), impressionists (Van High, Manet, Pissaro & several Austrian artists) and most famous of all, a small collection of Gustav Klimt's work,. He's known for: The Kiss, painted in the style of the Woman in Gold, the subject of the lawsuit covered in the movie of the same name. His other paintings portray a wide range of styles from commissioned portraits to impressionist style landscapes, none as impressive as the guilt style of the two noted above.

    We couldn't photograph the art so I can only include pictures of the building, garden and views from the windows. At 3, we returned to the shop for a brief rest before a private dinner in a private palace in the city. It will be a late night!    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Royal Dinner in Vienna, Day 8

    October 27, 2015 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    The evening was magical... Set in a ballroom, only Tauck books dinners here (of the cruise lines). We were entertained by a pianist, 4 string musicians, a lead violinist, two opera singers and two ballet dancers...all from the Viennese Symphony, Opera or Ballet Company. Dinner was sumptuous and we circled the city in our busses on the return to the ship. The buildings are even more beautiful at night. The guests raved that this was an evening of a lifetime...we felt like royalty.Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman
    1

    Vienna, Shonbrunn Palace Day 9

    October 28, 2015 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    9am bus took us to the Hapsburg's summer palace, fashioned after Versailles. Built in the 13th century and remodeled over subsequent centuries. Our tour of the highlights focused on the main ballroom and apartments of Maria Theresa (1801-1855) who ruled for 40 years and introduced mandatory education for all. She had 16 children over 19 years, growing to 282 pounds because doctors insisted on 12 meals a day to insure a healthy baby! Well non of her babies were premature and only two children died, in the early teens due to cholera.

    One of the huge tapestries featured a marketplace scene in which barber's monkey was picking fleas from a patron's head. Hence the term we use today: flea market!

    The gardens were not blooming, since its Fall. But we're actually enjoying the Autumn colors, realizing we haven't seen them since we moved to Florida.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman
    1

    Evening on the Ship

    October 28, 2015 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Back on board by 2:30. Today's weather was windy and chilly (but no rain) and so we didn't feel much like walking the city ... Well the truth is that Georges has no patience for browsing the shops :). It's fine since I surely don't need woolens. Vienna is very much like New York City, designer, and jewelry shops everywhere. Not as unique as Prague, which I think is more appealing. I do wish I'd bought crystal jewelry there. I'd waited for Vienna but was wrong. ..only Sworovski

    The boat just took off for our 42 kilometer cruise to Bratislava. We're getting a commentary about the regional development, enjoying mulled wine (Georges, champagne (me) and surprise Viennese treats. Yum. BTW, my tracker says we walked 42 miles since landing in Prague... Including ten on the full day we toured that city. Thank G I have plenty anti-inflammatory pills diagnosed by my podiatrist.

    We passed through another lock. Had an interesting dinner with a Texan couple from Ft. Lauderdale. Ended the evening with local Slovakian folk musicians and dancers..    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Bratislava. Day 10

    October 29, 2015 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We're listening to a talk by Martin Sloboda, a Slovakian historian on the history of eastern Europe,pre- and post 1918. Fascinating synopsis of the evolution from what was Austria Hungary before WW1 to the breakup into numerous small countries afterwards He focused on the politics within Czechoslovakia to the break up into the two states of Czech Republic and Slovakia on 1/1/93. Known as the Velvet Divorce, it was much more costly for Slovakia because there was no infrastructure to run a country. Czech Republic agreed with Pres Bush to discontinue armaments production, 90% of which was produced in Slovakia). But Slovakia recovered by getting into automobile production.

    Again, a dreary day but no rain. We hear Winters are very cold here. Enjoyed a walking tour of Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. This included entry to a small palace to see five British tapestries which were found hidden in the walls. Their history is unknown so it is thought they were hidden from Napoleon and then forgotten. The city is quite proud to have them.

    The tour ended with a traditional walnut pastry and tea in a lovely cafe. Then back to the ship for lunch. Skipping the afternoon tour, preferring to relax ... And so Georges can rest. He's a little flu-ish and is napping. Pamela, our Indonesian server prepared a pot of fresh ginger, lemon and honey tea, promising he'll feel better. I hope so because we still have four nights in Budapest. I hope I've not caught it. So far I feel well.    Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Budapest, Central Market, Day 10

    October 30, 2015 in Hungary ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    It's a beautiful, sunny and warm day in gorgeous Budapest! We walked from our ship (sadly saying good) to the historic Central Market. Vendors of all kinds of produce, meats, sausages, spices on the main level. Upstairs were dozens of crafts, leather, linens vendors. Yum, yum.Read more

  • Pat KaufmanDanube River CruisePat Kaufman

    Budapest Castle Hill, Day 10

    October 30, 2015 in Hungary ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    After the marketplace, our busses took us across the Danube to the palace district in "Buda" side. High up on a hill, the views were incredible. Most of Budapest was bombed during WWII And has been rebuilt. We walked for an hour with our guide, Lis, through the cobblestone streets, up into the walls before she took us into the neo-gothic St. Mathias Cathedral. Such a beautiful interior with lots of mosaics, it seats 6000.Read more

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