• JulieReganAdventures

The Long Road Home

Travelling the Outback with ute and caravan Czytaj więcej
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    27 czerwca 2021

    The departure preparations

    14 czerwca 2021, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Well this plan to travel Australia with caravan started a couple of years back. It was all planned for May 2020 where we were to follow the Grey Nomads into Queensland, Northen Territory, then into the vastness of Western Australia to be back to NZ for Christmas. But this world got a bit crazy and locked us all down for a while. We were very lucky to be able to spend 6 months working in NZ from October til April this year. But now it looks like our opportunity is about to happen, fingers crossed. We of course have plans in place but we have also learnt that we always run with backup plans which can give us some excitement in the unknown.

    With less than a week before we finish our employment we have been slowly selling and giving away any possessions that won't fit in a caravan and ute. We moved out of our apartment 2 days ago so a lot of accumulated stuff has already left us with almost everything else having found homes. A lot of donations to Salvos and luckily they are now open again after lockdown.We were supposed to have been in NZ for last weekend but once again covid blocked us so instead of taking a few kilos of stuff home by plane, we have had it all picked up last week to be shipped. (yet another PlanB which we prepare for)

    We spent a couple of nights with friends and then set up the caravan at the local caravan park for our last week of work. This will be the biggest test to see if what we have left will actually fit in the caravan and if the total weight of the rig with all our possessions is legal. If not we will once again trim down and donate.

    Once work is finished it's a few days with the kids and grandchildren then depending on state border rules we will head to the Big Red Bash in Birdsville. Just 2200km with about 300km of gravel at the end. This will take quite a few days for us. We are always amazed at the Australian attitude to long distance travel. Most people are quite happy to drive long days.

    Hopefully we will post again soon but the next week is going to be full-on living and working from caravan, and also saying our good-byes to our workmates,
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  • Melbourne Goodbye

    26 czerwca 2021, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    So we are finally here - work done and ready to roll out of Melbourne tomorrow morning. It was a weird week with some days moving slowly and others flying by. I went to the office for 3 days to escape the temptation to fiddle with more caravan sorting jobs even though we still have to wear masks in the office. Regan worked from the caravan for 4 days and then spent his last day in the office.

    Outside of work commitments we continued sorting all the stuff we had packed into the caravan and ute. The pile for the charity shop grew bigger and we even took advantage of the hard rubbish collection which was happening in the area. We do have a second pantry in the truck with duplicates of consumables such as 4 tubes of toothpaste, masses of hand wash and Regan had the record with 6 cans of deodorant so he is going to smell good for the whole trip. The first two nights in the van it dropped to 2 degrees overnight which was a good test for the red centre. The caravan performed really well.

    Finally we made it to Friday we both caught the tram together and had one last Melbourne breakfast before going to work. We were both pretty nostalgic thinking about all the fun we had had in the city and the realisation it is unlikely we will ever be locals again after this week. The day was pretty busy for both of us with lots of farewell messages and calls. It was a little strange to finish up at a job with no one in the office I left my laptop and security cards in my managers drawer and walked out the building.

    Regan had some farewell work drinks and I caught up with some friends for cocktails and dinner. When we got home we were both a little sad and pretty tired after a busy couple of weeks. Today we are having a quiet day with a few more goodbyes, and more rearranging the van to move things around for travelling.

    Still no decision on the route north to Queensland yet but we will complete our border declarations in the hope that we use them. We are quietly confident all will be ok.

    It will be bittersweet to leave as the adventure ahead is really exciting but we are leaving some amazing people who have made our time here super special.
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  • Family Checkin

    28 czerwca 2021, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Our first stop on the way to Maryborough was the public weigh-bridge. We weren’t sure of our rig weight so a quick check showed us that we were up to total weight limit but overweight on the front of the caravan. So a little re-distribution of items and we should be all legal. We were also running with full water tanks and easily 50kg of stuff to drop off to the kids at Maryborough.

    Then only 1.5 hrs to spend time with Gareth, Jess and the grandkids. We hired a cabin in the camping ground for the family and provided an excellent idea as it gave us more space and a warm place to hang out together as a family. Camping in an Victorian winter is not for the faint hearted.

    Two days filled with playgrounds, bike rides and games of UNO, Lola is the reigning champion with a late winning streak. Safe to say Granny and Gramps are pretty tired tonight. It has been fun starting to see Sonny’s personality starting to emerge as he becomes more comfortable with us. It will be a wrench to leave them in the morning knowing we won’t see them quite as regularly as we have.

    We have decided to travel to the Big Red Bash via South Australia. It is quite daunting as we will tackle the Birdsville track which is 500 km of dirt road however we will have a few days to break it up into smaller sections. The track was closed last week due to severe flooding so who knows what we will find. Tomorrow we are aiming for Renmark which is just over the SA border. This appears to be the safest route to avoid any covid questions at the border although we will be required to take covid tests soon after entry. Such is the life of any traveller in this country presently. We hedged our bets yesterday and gained entry via declarations for SA, NSW, and Queensland just in case we changed our minds tomorrow.
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  • Crossing the Border

    29 czerwca 2021, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    After another night in Maryborough with the family we managed a quick final visit to the playground and flying fox which was very chilly but good exercise for us considering we were about to travel well over 500km. After our goodbyes we headed north-west towards Mildura. This area called "The Mallee" is basically a massive flat plain of crops. Along the drive there are really large grain silos and a railway line. The road was sealed but quite bumpy. Not much speed for the whole trip.

    After a couple of stops on the way to stretch legs we hit the South Australia border. Normally the officials there are just inspecting all vehicles for fruit and vegetables which are not allowed to enter. We are used to this and make sure we are clear of anything that could cop a fine. The guys are good and search the rig. Julie's slices of frozen lemon for the gins were passed as ok to keep. But this time there were police as well checking all travellers for the covid rules. Luckily we are from Victoria so this week we are allowed to enter. Only Tasmanians and Victorians are permitted to enter. We had to complete a declaration and tomorrow we have to return to the border and undergo a covid test before we drive to our next destination. The new world of travelling!

    As it was dark when we arrived in Renmark we tried to find a freedom camp but didn't have much luck so stayed at Paringa camp. Maybe tomorrow night we will test the solar power set up and go off-grid.
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  • Flinders Ranges

    1 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Pretty cold morning first time I have seen my breath while lying in bed. Boiling the kettle and 15 mins of the water heater being on and a much more comfortable temperature was achieved. As we had not unhitched the previous night we were able to be on the road by 8:30am. The roads today were straight and flat and really smooth. It’s nice to enjoy an easy drive as we know the roads are about to get tougher.

    First stop was a walk around Peterborough, which for all the train enthusiasts following is one of the few places that has three different gauges of train tracks laid. It is certainly the destination if you are into trains. There were at least 3 train museums we saw. It was obviously a large rural supply town in its day including a YMCA and the town has been immaculately preserved.

    Next stop was Hawker for fuel and gas top up, trying to be well organised to hit the desert. From there we only had 35km to Rawnsley Park Station where we had booked an unpowered site. The station has been offering accomodation and camping for over 50 years and now have all options from eco cabins to bush camping where we found a great site looking straight out to Wilpena Pound.

    We made the most of the afternoon out of the car and went on a bike ride. It was supposed to be 10km in a loop around the station. It was not well sign posted and we took two wrong turns and had to retrace our steps. It was a great way to test out the electric bikes and after the second wrong turn we decided to play it safe and return the same way we came.

    We braved a cold wind to have a drink outside watching the sun set on the range and then went to the kitchen to get some mobile coverage. Our Covid test had returned Negative so now nothing holding us back from entering Queensland. The camp is super busy tonight and there are camp fires on pretty much every site expect us Kiwi’s. We are loving having the large skies and amazing stars tonight with it being clear.

    Tomorrow we really start our outback adventure as we are heading to Marree and so our posts maybe become infrequent depending on mobile reception. It is exciting and daunting at the same time.
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  • South Australia Sun

    1 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    After a night at Paringa camp we backtracked 12km to the border we crossed yesterday to have the mandatory covid test for us to enter SA. About a 30 minute wait in the sun chatting to other travellers. Then onto Berri for groceries and lunch by the Murray River. The temperature was about 20 degrees and was the first day that we felt warm since we left. In fact later in the afternoon as we were travelling directly into the sun for the whole trip, the car decided to supply cooling rather than the heater that it was used to blowing. We are looking forward to more aircon use as we head north .

    Today's drive was about 300km but was leisurely and the roads were pretty good. The large trucks like the speed limit of 110km/hr so I always gave them room as the overtook us and they all acknowledged me for doing this.

    We stopped at Morgan for fuel and to watch the ferry go back and forth across the Murray. There are a few free crossings like this ferry which has large winches on board which creep along two large cables fixed to both sides of the river. A simple and effective mechanism.
    The last leg was along long straights of barren flat plain. This area was very similar to the Maniototo area in Central Otago .

    Tonight we tried a Wiki-camps suggestion and have parked up at an old railway station platform in a village called Yarcowie. Had a quick walk around the village which was a busy place in the 1940s but now has a population less than 30 people. This is a test for Birdsville to test our solar power system.
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  • Floodway, Grid and Crest

    2 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Today’s travel is bought to you by the words Floodway, Grid and Crest. We left Wilpena Pound this morning and took the scenic route through the Flinders National Park to BlinmanThis is a small village that has a historic copper mine. It reminded us very much of Clyde but smaller. We stopped for a coffee and was tempted by a Quandong tart which is evidently a native fruit similar to a peach. We had it for supper and was very impressed.

    The next 30km were our first dirt road (gravel or shingle for our kiwi readers) The road went from Blinmart to Parachilna and had the most beautiful scenery through the river gorge. Once back on the Explorer Highway we pushed through to Leigh Creek which was so like new Cromwell. It was a town built in the early eighties for the workers of the coal mine which is now closed. So a large town shopping area mainly empty and lots of identical houses. We did a top up supermarket shop as not sure what will be available from this point on.

    Tonight’s stop is Marree which is the last town before the start of both the Oodnadatta and Birdsville track. It was supposed to be a very big weekend here with all the Big Red Bash people passing through and Camel races due here at Marree. The camel races have been cancelled due to Covid restrictions but it seems everyone has still turned up. The camping ground is jammed packed and I am very grateful to have our own toilet and shower, otherwise it could be a long wait!,

    There was a really nasty wind when we arrived so went for a short walk to the pub for a drink. Then home to snuggle down in the van, so worth the extra hassle of having to tow it especially as we scored one of the last powered site. Tomorrow morning we start the track and I expect it will be a bit of a convoy looking at all the vans here tonight.
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  • The Birdsville Track- Day 1

    3 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    A bit of a hiccup to start the day. I noticed a water leak under the caravan while camping at Marree. Unfortunately one of the snap-fit joiners on the fresh water had blown and was leaking badly. So in a 2 degree morning I was under the van trying to fix it. A lot of grunting and cursing and I managed to sort it. I was really lucky to be able to do this as we need water for sure. A neighbour at the caravan park sympathised as he had lost one of his water tanks to a rock so at least I didn't feel too hard-done-by. We then went and bought some water from an automated desalination water dispenser and were on our way. Phone coverage lost about 3km out so here we are in complete isolation with hundreds of others!

    The Birdsville track is 517km long and is all gravel. Well I say gravel but its a mix of dirt, mud, rock base, hard shingle, bull dust and even a water hazard. Our goal was to get to Mangeranie which is just over 200km. We had talked to a group of people in 3 caravans as we camped near them at Flinders a couple of nights back. They put us at ease as they were relaxed with no macho type attitude and were taking it all very quietly. We pretty much drove with them for a lot of the road and listened to their constant banter on the UHF radio. Was very reassuring.
    We drove at between 60-75km/hr on the better parts of the road. Some long stretches of hard gravel with a rock base was really rough and we were down to 35km/hr as we need to protect the rig and especially the tyres. Our bodies were shaken about and various new rattles arrived in the car along the way. Unfortunately we copped a rock in the windscreen so the crack will require full replacement when we get to civilisation. Apparently this is common.

    The hard clay surface was a dream to drive on. Smooth and only a little rutted. Last week it would have been impossible due to the rain. The grids (cattle stops) were dangerous and had to be negotiated slowly. We had some flooding with large holes so took that quietly. The interesting part was two very large areas of bulldust. This stuff is new to us kiwis and is basically a large sandpit across the road with steep sides that you drop into and climb out of. Bulldust is the texture of talcum powder and with the wind it's like driving blind. So soft and the 4WD was definitely engaged to drag our 5.5 tonne through this. We did the first hole alone but I saw one of the other guys right behind us so called him to lead the way which he did. We all got through safely of course.

    The trick is to reduce speed on this road and enjoy the view. We drove between two deserts and the pics show how barren this place is. I can't imagine attempting this road in mid-summer. We had taped up most vents in the caravan but the dust just gets in all cracks. So a fine layer of dust is everywhere and the back of the ute has a larger layer. A night stopover at Mangeranie roadhouse for fuel, drink, meal and hot showers and a lot of chatting to other travellers before we do it all again tomorrow.
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  • Birdsville Track- Day 2

    4 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    We woke to ice on the windscreen at Mungaranie this morning. We do pity the people in tent campers as we cranked up our heating. Left site at 8.20am for the final 313km to Birdsville. We were told that this part of the road was not the best and weren't disappointed to start. It was so rough that were were down to 35-40km/hr for quite a few kilometres. Everything was shaken about and dust was bad. Checked the caravan and the tv mounting had undone itself and bathroom door was banging. TV was moved to the bed and pillows applied to the door to protect it.
    Most of the road was rough as we travelled and was quite unpredictable. The surface was so hard in places and really hard on the occupants. The main task was to protect the tyres for their journey.
    There was more traffic today as we had left a lot earlier than yesterday with a couple of groups passing then stopping for a break then repeating. The UHF radio came in handy for comms as they approached and passed us. We stopped for a break at the 130km mark then decided to push onto Birdsville just to complete the road. At about 80km from our destination all of a sudden the really rough roads disappeared and were replaced by sand and smooth wide tracks. This improved our average speed and my grip on the steering wheel reduced so we cruised along at 85km/hr. This was the best after suffering over 200kms of bone-shaking rocks and potential damage. Well the potential damage was realised later as a rock had damaged a fresh water pipe joint under the caravan- yet more repairs attempted laying on my back under the van. Time will tell how good I was at fixing this one.
    All up was about 6.5hrs driving and was a hard day but the views were amazing and the isolation impressive. And the dust and sand we accumulated along the way will take a lot of cleaning- maybe another day when we finish with these dirt roads in a week or so.

    After going through the Qld police covid checkpoint we arrived on the outskirts of Birdsville to literally hundreds of caravans and campers all free-camping along the road. This place is humming with so many like-minded people all heading to the "Bash". We set up camp and walked 1km into town to see the sights and register for the Bash. A pleasant walk after a hard drive with warm sun but a chilly wind. We got back to camp (repairs started- solar panel also not working) and got chatting to a couple camping next to us. A few drinks and nightcaps later and bedtime for us.
    Even with the small damage today we are very pleased with the day as we succeeded in completing the Birdsville Track relatively unscathed and still smiling.
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  • Housekeeping Day

    5 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    A real treat for us to be in the same place for 2 nights running. This was important as we had a few maintenance tasks after the Birdsville track shook us to pieces. We got off lightly compared to some people. Our damage list included.......solar not charging due to a wire fallen out, car not charging the caravan- not fixed yet, water heater not working properly due to suspected dust in the gas jet- working sporadically, fly screen door catch broken - not fixed yet, cold water pipe joiner split from a rock - I think I have repaired it. Will update tomorrow. And we have lost our connector to the tap to fill our water tanks. All this takes time which included a trip to the hardware store to meet others who are worse off than me. That place is a goldmine when caravan owners arrive.

    We are camped about 1.2km from town with less people camped around us compared to last night. A nice walk into town to the hardware store, bakery for the famous pies, then the pub to stock up. We only bought 2 bottles of wine in the end as there was little choice.

    The queue for the people to get into town for fuel was about 1km long when we walked back at midday. I was so pleased I had dragged myself out of bed at 7am to get diesel with no queue. Birdsville is not a place to get away from people when the Bash is on.

    We were invited out tonight for a drink around the camp fire with 3 couples and kids that we have been following and meeting for the last 5 days. We will travel to the Bash tomorrow as a convoy and camp together which gives us all a lot of common space. Will be fun for sure.
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  • Big Red Bash Day 1

    6 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We had arranged to meet our camping crew at 9:30 in the morning so it was pack up, empty toilet cassette and fill the water tanks to the brim. We still have the water leak issue so will be very careful to keep the water pump off until we need it. We met the crew in town and took off to the bash site which was 33 km out of town in the shadow of the Big Red sand dune.

    We were one of the later groups to arrive so are out on the outer ring. The ground had been graded so was nice and flat but pure dirt so every time you move there is a cloud of dust. There are 10 000 people in attendance out in the middle of a dust bowl. Some of the camping set ups are very elaborate and a large majority of group sites have some sort of decorating theme.

    It was an amazing day so the shorts got an outing for the first time. After we had set up and got everything sorted we packed up a bag of essential supplies (gin and borboun pre mixes) and took our camping chairs down to the performing area. People who had been there before had really sussed out elaborate ways to get the chairs, eskys and food down to performances and most people stayed put from midday until the last performance finished at 8pm.

    It was such a cool afternoon listening to great music, watching large family groups hanging out with the kids spending time playing in the dirt and sliding down the sand dune. There were plenty of food options so we had a late afternoon snack watching the last act of the afternoon as the sun went down.

    We came back to the caravan to put on warmer clothes and grab so more food and then went back for the last act (Chocolate Starfish) which did covers of Meatloaf, Queen and INXS. We went into the mosh pit so spent the last hour singing and dancing. Back to the camp to share the communal fires and share what happened across the day.

    It was mind blowing thinking about the logistics of getting this event happening and the army of volunteers making sure everything worked so smoothly. There are composting toilets in each neighbourhood and also large sets down at the concert area. A great range of food trucks offering everything from a pie to a vegan hamburger and 12 different music acts across the 3 days.
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  • Big Red Bash Day2

    7 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After a chilly night I managed to convince Julie of the value in getting out of the warm bed and hiking 20 minutes to climb Big Red and watch the sunrise. A few complaints but a coffee bribe helped. We climbed up just before the 7.30am sunrise with a couple of hundred others already up there. A spectacular site to be in the Simpson Desert to see a new day. While we were there the morning yoga class started up on the dune so we both jumped in and twisted and stretched with 100 others.

    Once we got back to the entertainment area we waited around as the Bashville Drag Race was about to start. There was a large turnout of drag queens who ran and walked from the top of Big Red back to the entertainment area. Was pretty impressive seeing the outfits of at least 200 drag queens at 10am.

    Finally back to the caravan for breakfast and a bit of R&R. We both did some reading and Julie did a large cook up of some vegetables that needed to be used. Once we go down to the concert area you don’t really come back to the van so tend to buy something from the food vendors for dinner.

    The afternoon entertainment were people we were not so familiar with but turned out to have preformed some original Aussie classics such Eagle Rock, and a number of Little River Band songs. The headline act was Paul Kelly and while he started slow he finished strongly.
    Just before the end I ducked off to the toilet but unfortunately lost the group when I returned. It was so hard to find anyone in the dark. As I was searching I helped a lady who was also lost. Neither of us found our groups but I made friends with another group who I “found” three times. The concert finished so I walked back to the caravan to be greeted by everyone. Next year I hope there’s a Lost Children’s (adults) tent.

    Walking home in the massive dust cloud, we are certainly going to leave here with a bit of Outback dust in our lungs. Another great day and one last one tomorrow to go.
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  • Big Red Bash Day 3

    8 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The last day of entertainment started with the attempt to break the world record for the most people to dance the Nutbush. Ok- for the non- Aussie readers I will explain ( Aussie readers can ignore this part). Somewhere back in Australian history Tina Turner song “Nutbush City Limits” was adopted and a dance routine created. Most kids were taught this as a rite of passage just after they took their first steps. I think this is also well before they ate their first “Australian” pavlova or listened to “Australian” Crowded House. Anyway......this dance routine was organised to break the world record which was set 2 years ago at the Bash.

    The organising of 3000+ people into lines, counted, scrutinised for style etc was incredible. The Guinness records people were there. This all took a lot of time but finally started and for 5 minutes everyone shuffled their feet, kicked and clapped to Tina Turner and broke the record. The dust rose and the people cheered. All proceeds from this went to the Royal Flying Doctor Service which overall raised about $70k. Soon after most of the dancers stayed to set a record for Chubby Checkers “ The Twist” - more dust and excitement. The Australian record was broken this time.

    The day warmed up. No wind and full sun so plenty of sunblock and hats. Music today started just after midday and went through til 9.30pm. Today’s line up was Caitlin Shadbolt, Wendy Matthews, Darryl Braithwaite (yes we got Horses in the outback), Thirsty Merc, Ian Moss, John Williams and finally Bjorn Again to rock out to ABBA classics at the end.

    We learnt that the people organising the Bash started it after they had started a charity run for Diabetes research as their son who is type1 diabetic. Then they thought that a concert in the desert could be fun. It’s now a full time job and I am in awe at the logistics behind it all. Hundreds of people volunteer to help. Most are people that just come to the Bash and are rostered to do a few hours tidying, toilet cleaning, marshalling vehicles/ people and smiling and helping. Everyone has traveled a long way to have a good time so there is always a friendly chat and stories exchanged.

    When the music finished there was a mix of sadness that this incredible experience was over but also some relief to be leaving all the dust behind. One final campfire with our Bash friends before crashing into bed.
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  • Big Red Bash Departure

    9 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    This morning was the pack-up for thousands of people at the BRB. We had expected everyone to be up super early to get in the queue early so was surprised to see most people still around our area when we got up at 8. I did a leisurely climb up Big Red to view the site that had a haze of campfire smoke and dust from moving vehicles.

    We packed up and said our goodbyes to our adopted Aussie friends. Trev and Kylie, Ian and Sally, Grant and Mel, Kayla, Sadie, Cooper, Josie and Rex, plus friends and family from NT as well. It was so lovely being with you guys, learning some camping tricks, laughing at our travelling misfortunes and sharing a few drinks and good cheer. You made the Bash extra special for us.

    After a 20 minute queue to leave the Bash site we travelled back into Birdsville to fill up, empty out and send some blogs. The village was busy but nothing like it was a few days back. Then we headed north stopping for lunch at Carcoory ruins, which was an abandoned homestead built using local limestone.

    The road was very busy as a lot of the Bash crowd were heading to Bedourie for the camel and pig races tomorrow. We decided to forgo these events and have a night at King Creek which was about a 150km trip with about 50km of dirt road. The trip started very dry and barren but as we drove there were hints of green and even the odd river with puddles. Julie remarked at lack of wildlife so Mother Nature assisted soon after with two emus sprinting along the wasteland not far from the road.

    Our stop tonight is a freedom camp on the banks of a river. We sat outside this afternoon enjoying the view in our bug free gazebo. I think it might be the best thing as the flies are certainly introducing themselves. We are now approximately 2500km north of Melbourne and really enjoying the better weather. Tomorrow we are aiming to drive through to Mount Isa and should have some better coverage for the blog publishing. We are a day behind due to the isolation in mobile reception. Oh well.....
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  • Page 28

    10 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We decided to leave early from our campsite and have breakfast on the way. Today’s driving was just over 500km all on page 28 of the map book, so needed the whole day. The map showed some gravel road stretches but we were pleasantly surprised that these had since been sealed. The road was however single lane seal which meant we were slowing and heading to the gravel shoulder quite a bit as vehicles passed us.

    We bypassed Bedourie and pushed through and stopped at Boulia for brunch and fuel. This is a small town surrounded by dry barren plains. As we headed north the geography started changing. The moonscape started turning with a few trees and waterways. Still very dry of course. A lot of rocky outcrops and by Mt Isa we were seeing a lot of trees.

    For the last 40km into Mt Isa we caught up with a road train. These are the top dogs on the road so all vehicles pull over when these machines approach. This is a great advantage as we just stayed in behind this grain carrier as he barged his way along the single lane seal so although it was slower that our normal speed we stayed steady all the way with no one trying to get back onto the seal until we passed. I also had no desire to attempt to overtake him either as getting past a 50 metre long behemoth wouldn’t be fun.

    Arriving at Mt Isa motor camp just on 5pm, luckily we had prebooked earlier in the day. We got a great site and set up then promptly had showers and will look forward to a few days removing red dust from every part of the caravan and ute. We also walked to dinner and enjoyed choosing from a menu.
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  • Mt Isa

    11 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    A rest day for us to repair, restock and recharge. Unfortunately Sunday trading in Mt Isa only exists for Bunnings and KFC. No supermarkets or camping stores which we need. Temperature has increased to about 26 degrees which we are really enjoying. Dipped our toes into the unheated swimming pool but thought no thank you.

    So a rest day which involved cleaning the ute and inside of caravan to remove as much outback dust as we could. Also 4 loads of laundry which takes a while as the camp is full from Big Red Bash people all wanting to clean like we are doing. A bit boring for the blog but the satisfaction of feeling cleaner is important.

    A drive around town and a walk down by the river with no flowing water was about all we did of interest. Mt Isa is a small town dominated by the open cast mine looming over it. It mines lead, silver, copper and zinc and is one of the worlds most productive mines. It wouldn’t exist without the mine but it’s quite a sight from town with the high chimneys bellowing vapour all the time.
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  • Last days at Mt Isa

    13 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    The last few days here have allowed us to have a break from dust and driving. The caravan is clean again but I am sure we will find more pockets of dust as we travel. The camp was quieter today which was nice as the last couple of days here has been really busy with vans lined up from 10.30 both mornings trying to get a site.

    The bikes got a clean and a 20km ride around town and outskirts. The town is definitely built for mine workers. A lot of prefab housing built for purpose only. It sort of feels that the city was thriving in the 80’s but has struggled to maintain the progress since then.

    We did find the local lake later in the day. Lake Moondarra was created in the late 1950’s by the Mt Isa mine to supply water to the town. It continues to be used for recreation and town water. There are a lot of shoreline picnic areas and warnings about duck lice and mosquitoes but it’s a picturesque place nonetheless .

    The warning about freshwater crocodiles was high on my decision to avoid going near the water. But in saying that we were told at the Bash that “freshies” won’t eat you. Well I’m not keen on proving that fact. Also not ready on getting media attention where some stupid tourist went for a swim and got attacked!

    Tomorrow we head across the border into Northern Territory. Covid declaration done and will be staying at a roadhouse about 450km along the highway. Then back to civilisation with another 200km on Thursday to reach Tennant Creek.
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  • Barkly Homestead

    14 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Early start today as had 450km to travel to our next camping spot. Road out of Isa was really good, Wide sealed and not too much traffic so I got brave and offered to drive until Camooweal. We had identified this as our lunch destination and the last town on the Queensland side of the border.

    It took a little while for me to settle into the drive and determining the right line to set, I had a few vehicles pass me and even managed the road trains coming at me. I pulled off the road just out Camooweal so Regan could do the tricker stuff. In all I drove about 150km and felt quite pleased with myself.

    Camooweal was even smaller than we anticipated with two fuel stops and nothing else, so after we fuelled up and kept going. We crossed the border in the middle of nowhere but still had to go through a full police check. No dramas and we are good to stay here for a few weeks. We drove another 60km to a rest stop for lunch. All around us it was wide vast spaces with dry grass and no trees. You felt a bit like you had reached the end of the world. The Barkly tablelands are approximately the same size as New Zealand. Farming is mainly cattle stations which are some of the world’s largest.

    Our stop for the night was Barkly Homestead. It is a roadhouse with camping facilities and lush green gardens. It is such a contrast to the surrounding landscape. We found a camping spot, for an unpowered site it was first in first served. As the temperature had been over 30 degrees all day I was brave and had my first swim of the holiday at the pool.

    The roadhouse offered happy hour and meals so we took advantage of the convenience and had dinner out. Walked around the campground after dinner checking out all the different types of vans and camper trailers. There are hundreds of campers all sleeping over in this oasis. Hopefully most are travelling east away from us. Smaller drive tomorrow to Tennant Creek with similar temperatures of around 30-33 degrees.
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  • Tennant Creek

    15 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Small drive today just over 200km which was a nice change. The road was extremely straight, only 4 bends in the 190km until we turned onto the Stuart Highway.

    We stopped just north of the town to check out the old Telegraph station. Back in the 1870’s there was a push to connect Australia to the worlds telegraph network. They needed to connect Australia to the cable they had laid under the Java sea. They then needed to build a telegraph wire from Darwin to Adelaide this required a network of stations to be built to repeat the signal. Over 20 stations were built in the middle of nowhere. It was great to look around the old buildings and realise the enormous task they completed in just 2 years.

    We arrived at Tennant Creek at lunchtime, back into a traditional camping ground with power. The access to power might be very useful to try out the air conditioning with an expected temperature of 33 degrees.

    After lunch we went exploring. The first stop was the cultural centre and art gallery run by the local Warumgu people. It was interesting to read about their land claims and how they are supporting the local community. We were tempted by the beautiful art but resisted temptation.

    We went to the info centre for some ideas of things to do around Alice and Uluru, and up to the lookout. Tennant Creek is surrounded by different ranges so makes for really interesting landscapes. Final stop was Lake Mary Ann which was the site of an old mine that has been converted into a recreational reserve.

    Back to the camp via a fuel top up and visit to the local IGA. They close the gates to the camping ground at sundown so decided to have dinner at the camp tonight. We had a great catch up with family and then a camp walk as it was such a beautiful evening.

    Tomorrow is a 500+km drive to Alice Springs with a sharp drop in temperature too.
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  • Into Alice

    16 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Left Tennant Creek early as the drive south to Alice was over 500km. The Stuart Highway is a good road overall and traffic was light. With NT roads having a posted speed limit of 130km/hr some vehicles flew past us with ease. I think the first bend in the road was at about 40km so an easy drive.

    Julie also drove for almost 200km and caught up with a road train which set our speed to around 90km/hr. Passing a road train is a tricky undertaking and as we have no timeframes we were happy to follow. We did watch one driver with caravan attempt once before getting past successfully on the second try. The windy day wasn’t helping either.

    We stopped at The Devils Marbles for a look around. These are quite impressive and as we are returning on this road in a couple of weeks we may try and spend more time there. A brunch stop at Barrow Creek then onward to arrive at Alice by 4pm. Alice Springs township is enclosed by a number of ranges so is surrounded by the granite rocks and is pretty green with lots of trees.

    Campground is very large with all the family features like giant bouncy pillows and an amazing pool area. After setting up we walked around and met up with a kiwi family we had met at the Bash. Small world sometimes with the caravan travelling fraternity. Tomorrow we will head into town to discover and stock up.
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  • Three Cornered Jack

    18 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    The heading gives you a hint of what the last couple of days has revolved around. Saturday morning we wandered into Alice Springs cbd. It has a few historical buildings and a lot of indigenous tourism. A couple of malls and supermarkets. It was the biggest town we had been in for a while. Our first task was to get plumbing pieces to finally fix our water leak. We found an amazing camping store who could help us out. Regan spent more time under the caravan on his yoga mat with great success.

    Decided on a bike ride in the afternoon so headed up past Alice Springs Desert Park. The cycleway is wide and fully sealed. We stopped for a photo op and I parked my bike off the track. Big mistake. The tyres got a few jabs from this noxious weed called three cornered jack. Continued on for another 20km. At about 5km from home I noticed I had a soft front tyre so straight home as fast as possible. Had to walk the last kilometre. Mended the front tyre then Julie noticed my back tyre was also flat. So more time finding 4 thorns and punctures in the back tyre.

    Woke up this morning to both tyres flat again. Being a Sunday we only managed to get one new tube so spent more time replacing tubes and pulling out all thorns from the tyres. We first experienced three cornered Jack on the Birdsville track and have stood on it a few times and dragged in inside the caravan. Guaranteed to curse when you stand on one of these bare-footed and must be careful to get the complete thorn out as well.

    Today we went for a leisurely drive to Simpson's Gap then Standleys Chasm. Amazing rocks and just spectacular when you discover that these rocks are some of Australia's oldest rocks . And of course the rocks and the dirt is so red. The main birdlife were budgies. Hundreds of speedy noisy characters darting between the branches. We managed a couple of walks which we enjoyed after having a few long days sitting in the car. The temperature is cooler than Mt Isa but we are further south. Today was a pleasant 20 degrees and sunny.

    As we haven’t managed to see all we wanted in Alice we are staying an extra day before we head into the tourism Mecca of Uluru and Kings Canyon.
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  • Museum day

    19 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    We decided that there was a bit more to see in Alice so booked another night.

    First up was getting our 2nd covid vaccination. Being a small town there weren't queues so it was all done in 40 minutes for us.
    Then we went to the Royal Flying Doctors Service museum to learn all about the history. Was well worth the visit to understand its importance to the outback communities for over 100 years. The virtual goggle experiences were amazing especially as one was a flight over Kings Canyon where we are heading tomorrow. We had lunch in the associated cafe which would rival any in Melbourne with a focus on native flavours.

    Then we visited the Women's Museum of Australia. This is on the site of the old Alice Springs prison which closed in 1996. The prison is small and all concrete and had both men and women - segregated of course . The men's wing was very cold and depressing and the women's wing seemed a lot nicer although definitely not a place you would want to be. There was also some cultural segregation for the indigenous inmates but that was relaxed over the years.

    The women's museum was really interesting with the museum split into two themes. The first was focused on some of the early women European settlers who became the first teachers and nurses in the area. You had to admire how they coped in such a harsh environment and some took over 6 months just to travel to their new homes. The second half featured all the women who have been the first to achieve something within their fields of expertise, so the first to become a judge, veterinarian, civil engineer, explorer etc. There were fascinating stories and it was really uplifting.

    Stock up shop at Coles and top up of the fuel tank as we have heard the prices are pretty outrageous down around the rock. Tomorrow is a big day travelling to Kings Canyon to see more spectacular scenery.
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  • Into Kings Canyon

    20 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Left Alice fairly early for the trip into the heart of tourist country. Alice Springs airport is storing planes from all over the world during covid. The dry climate makes this airport ideal.
    The Stuart highway south was quite busy with caravans but at least the straights are long for passing opportunities. We stayed at around 90km/hr which was too slow for some people. First stop was the Stuart Well road house which was a little run down and a whole lot of quirky including the emu in the front paddock.

    We stopped at Elmunda which is the turnoff to Uluru and Kings Canyon. The fuel was expensive and in fact markedly more expensive than the more isolated Birdsville track. So our conclusion is that they are cashing in on the tourists and not just hiking the price due to transport costs. We always expected to pay more.

    The road into Uluru was narrow but sealed so had to keep alert due to the steep drop from seal to gravel. Lunch stop was 300km into our journey at the turnoff to the Canyon. Lots of bush flies and plenty of 3 cornered Jack to pick out of footwear and carpet. The last 180km was really quiet on the road with not one vehicle catching us to overtake. We were still only doing 90km/hr.

    Arrived at Kings Canyon resort by 4pm and have a non powered site for 3 nights. The resort has a mix of high end accommodation and the camping area. A pleasant 26 degrees. Wandered the camp for a stretch talking to a few people. Lots of red dust so a lot of our cleaning may be in vain. At the rear of the camp there is a viewing platform where alot of the campers watched the sun setting on the hills. Bright red rocks on sunset is spectacular. We will be walking in these hills tomorrow.
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  • Kings Canyon Proper

    21 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    A leisurely start at Kings Canyon but not too leisurely as the rim walk planned is supposed to be started by 9am due to the heat. Because it's winter we were in no danger. About 18 degrees with a fresh breeze was perfect. The route is clockwise as per instructions. The first part is a steep climb up the side of the canyon. 100 vertical metres in the first 300 metres sure got the muscles warmed up.

    The whole canyon is layered rocks which are 400 million years old. These are some of the oldest rocks on earth. Some amazing shapes of waves like we see on a beach after a tide has dropped. It is really weird to think the whole area was once under the sea, and many times you were sure someone had placed them specially to form the shapes.

    As you will see on the pics this place is spectacular. So dry and barren yet some trees manage to survive. The circuit is about 6km and has emergency phones and AEDs dotted along the route. This walk would be hard in summer. Julie had taken her tramping stick which was a bonus with all the ups and downs. We took about 3 hours to complete the whole circuit and even our fit legs and joints noticed the strain.

    Relaxing afternoon reading and afternoon naps. Even and a dingo trotted past us. There are strict rules not to feed or engage with them and even the rubbish bins are caged. All footwear and food is to be inside overnight too.
    We walked across to the more exclusive part of the resort which seemed very quiet. I expect it is normally full on international tour groups that are non-existent presently.

    Dinner outside for a change. We have a bug tent but apart from bushflies there isn't much else that has annoyed us.
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  • Kathleen Creek

    22 lipca 2021, Australia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Another lazy day for us before we leave Kings Canyon tomorrow. Started with freshly baked scones from our caravan oven. The wind picked up today which made for a lot of dust around the camp. We headed out to walk Kathleen Creek which is a small flat stroll. The temperature was really warm but the wind helped keep us cool. There is a lot of indigenous history around this area and the information boards along the track informing us that we are entering a sacred area where food was hunted.

    As the walk was small we decided to do another short walk back at Kings Canyon. We were on the floor of the canyon but with such a strong wind we were glad we did the canyon rim walk yesterday.

    Back to the caravan for some lunch and a leisurely afternoon reading. We did finally have to go inside the caravan as the dust was everywhere.
    Decided after a drink to head to the resort bar for a drink and meal and met up with Betty and Brian who we chatted to earlier in the day on the canyon walk so had a lovely dinner and conversation for the evening.

    Tomorrow we head to Uluru. This is just next door to Kings Canyon if you look on a map but it's about 350km of driving. Big distances this country
    has!
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