• Vanessa Rogers

New Zealand and Oz 2023-2024

A 149-day adventure by Vanessa Read more
  • Trip start
    November 1, 2023

    Christchurch 2023/2024

    November 3, 2023, Tasman Sea ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After a night at the Premier Inn Glasgow and brief stop at the Ibis Budget hotel Melbourne with three delayed flights we arrived in Christchurch after a thirty seven hours. Wet and overcast on arrival at Christchurch but only for one day. Holed up in an Airbnb for two nights to get over the jet lag. Mike was in Queenstown. Spent the next few days getting the van sorted., bike rack, decals and awning rail plus a good clean.
    Then onto our Russel and Jenni’s POP Mousehole where we stayed for two months last year. There are some permanents there now. People don’t have static caravans they have converted buses. Just as nice though, a sweet chestnut orchard with resident Pukekos. Thirteen outside our van when we woke up. The babies are just balls of back fluff. Noisy little buggers though!
    Trip down to Sumner, watched a children’s surfing competition. The Spring flowers are exceptionally good this year, lots a weird and wonderful things blooming.
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  • Akaroa

    Nov 10–12, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Went to the Banks peninsula for the weekend. The area is an huge volcanic basin that has access to the sea. Freedom camped in Akaroa for two nights next to the croquet club. Akaroa lovely little town settled by French migrants 100 yrs ago. Bakery does great baguettes. Spent a couple of hours at the Giants House an internationally recognised garden. Created by artist Josie Martin who also trained in horticulture. It is an assault on the senses. Fabulous colour scheme with amazing plantings. Even Steve was impressed!
    Mike came down in the afternoon with friends Wayne and Mel visiting from Oz.
    Steve managed to get burnt, he will never learn, no hat or sun cream. To be fair it was only 14 degrees but the sun was fierce even though the breeze was cool.
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  • Okains Bay

    Nov 12–14, 2023 in New Zealand

    Spent a couple of nights at Okains Bay campground about 25 km from Akaroa. Very steep winding roads in and out. Just a handful of houses, one store and a small museum but very popular with families at weekends and holidays. Very safe swimming, the flat sandy bay never gets very deep even at high tide.
    Only a handful of campers whilst we were there. Very relaxing and weather was great!
    Did a walk along the coast to Little Okains Bay. Never saw another soul in nearly two hours walking.
    Visited Little Akalola Bay on the way back to Christchurch. Roads +++ winding and steep but beautiful place to live.
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  • My birthday and Hunanui river

    Nov 17–19, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Well it was my 69th birthday. Booked a first table at the fine dinning restaurant in the arts centre in Christchurch which turned out to be owned by Chillingworth St restaurant where we have been before. Food is first class. The waiter was lovely and brought me a birthday cake at the end of the meal. Then onto One Shot owned by Two Thumbs a company we have shares in. A different sort of bar you can play computer games as you enjoy a drink or meal. First time I I have played Mario. Came twelve out of twelve for the first ten or so racers then Mike explained a few things and came sixth on the next race. Delighted!!! Could be quite addictive though!!
    On Saturday we went back to the place we spent our first night ever in our camper van. A place next to the Hurunui river where someone has created a garden. That was after having lunch on Amberley beach. Steve was going to fish but it was just too windy. Then onto the river where we did some off-roading. Got stuck twice but Mikes van has a winch so was able to use convenient trees to haul us out. I was a complete coward and jumped out when the water came in over the sills. Waded for dry ground. Great fun though! Campfire at night on the side of the Hurunui river, no one else there.
    Tried surf fishing the next day but no luck.
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  • Christchurch and beyond

    November 26, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Stuck in and around Christchurch trying to solve the canopy problem. Ordered a c rail but 17-14 day delivery (this is not the uk).
    Table tennis brilliant here could play Tues to Fri if we wanted to.
    Spent a couple of nights at a beautiful little campground on the way to Arthur’s pass. (Kuwaiti Pass domain,Springfield). Chance to get showers and do the washing. Old cricket pavilion turned into a very comfortable lounge with kitchen and dining table and loads of toys for kids. Played tennis, all equipment provided. All for £8.00 per night.
    At last the c rail arrived . Took us four and half hours to fit but pleased with result. And then we were off.
    Two hours drive to Timaru. Lucy text to say there was a serious fire on the outskirts of Perth. They had been told to evacuate. She grabbed the kids, met Allan at the airport, he had been working away and they booked into a motel one and half hours away as everywhere in Perth was full. For a few days they were not sure if they would have a home to go back to as the wind kept changing direction. The poor fire service struggled to get it under control. Eighteen houses lost but luckily no lives. What a welcome to OZ!!!
    We parked on a freedom camp in Timaru, right next to where the little blue penguins nest. We had ,had a tip off as to the best place to watch them returning as it got dark.
    Only eight or so feet from the nest we watched the male taking fresh bedding in and then making quite a racket as he called his partner. There were about Sixty or seventy people watching this dwindled to only three as the night wore on. The warden explained that the nest I was standing next to had a female who was always last to return. Waited until ten thirty but was frozen by then so never did see the homecoming. Very disappointed, will have to come back another time.
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  • Timaru to Twizel

    November 27, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Heading towards Twizel we stopped at Tekapo. The Russell Lupins are out and line the sides of the roads and can be seen in huge swathes in friends and along water courses. Beautiful!
    Have been to Tekapo before. Decided to climb Mt John again, up to the observatory where there is a cafe which sells wonderful GF banana loaf. The walk up takes about an hour but is quite steep is really hard and on the legs both going up and coming down but the view from the top is one of the best in NZ. You can see Mt Cook the highest peak in NZ at 12,354 and many others too. Not to mention the wonderfully blue Lake Tekapo.
    Overnight at the Combined Services Club in Twizel. Like many of the clubs you can stay in their car park or in this case a quiet grassy area at the back of the club. had a meal and a drink and entered their raffles. People were very pleasant and welcoming.
    Next morning we set off to Mt Cook village where we had booked a trip to the Tasman glacier. Met the others on the trip at the Hermitage hotel. What a place! Would loved to have been staying there.
    The hotel has a museum dedicated to Sir Edmund Hillary. He did much of his training here before he attempted Everest.
    The tour was great, learnt so much about glaciers. Of the 3,000 in NZ this is the largest being 23km long, we could only see 11kms. It contains 1/3 of all the ice locked into the glaciers in NZ
    About a fifteen minute bus ride, twenty minute walk and then an hour the Tasman lake.
    The weather was perfect! We could only go to within 200m of the glacier as ice sheets break off and cause tidal waves. Quite a lot of new ice broken off since the day before we were told.
    The colours in the photographs do not look real but they are spot on.
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  • Twizel and Hooker Valley hike

    Nov 29–Dec 5, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Spent several nights on Poaki lake DOC site. Just love it here. Just a few miles from Twizel the area is criss crossed by canals but not like we know them in the UK. They are massive and are part of the hydroelectric system. Water running through these canals provide 1/3 of NZ an energy needs. One of these canals is right next to Poaki lake. Steve was able to pop up and try his hand at catching a trout or possibly a salmon, on a number of occasions but only caught a small one so had to put it back. It’s a start though. He is confident he is going to catch a good one at some point, he made me buy tartare sauce.😂
    Went back up to Mt Cook village to walk the Hooker Valley trail. I would guess the most popular walk in NZ. We arrived at 10am and the car park was already full. It’s an easy walk supposedly one and half hours each way. We did in a bit less. The weather wasn’t great when we started out but bit by the clouds lifted revealing the summit of Mt Cook. Magnificent!! Well worth the walk.
    Walking back we glad we had set out reasonably early as there were bus loads of people coming the other way including hundreds of Asian people who cannot walk twenty yards without taking at least twenty photos. Very annoying when you just want a quick snap.😜
    Spent two days on Lake Benmore. This area really is like Scotland where mostly NZ isn’t. Haven’t felt so relaxed for ages. Beautiful area, beautiful weather but as yet no trout😊
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  • Twizel to Cromwell

    December 2, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    One last afternoon trying to catch a trout on Lake Benmore and then south towards Cromwell. After driving for only half an hour we did a detour to visit the Clay Cliffs. They were on private land and we had never seen this type of landscape before in NZ. Formed by erosion from wind and rain they were quite impressive.
    Then onward over the Lindis pass. The lupins were particularly abundant in this area with mile after mile lining the roadside.
    Stopped at a DOC campsite Turned off the main onto the old coach road and drove for 5km. Truly one of the nicest we have been to. The site of the Historic Lindis Pass Hotel it was bounded by a river with its banks smothered in lupins. Only one other couple camping.
    This is where I tried fishing and hit a tree three times and the water once, lost the lure🥴
    Lupins by the way were introduced from America to grow as green fertiliser but they escaped and farmers have long since stopped growing them.
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  • Cromwell and back to Twizel

    December 3, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Arrived in Cromwell, you can guess what the area is famous for. Our intention was to do some of the excellent cycle tracks but they turned out to be mainly linear. Ideal for electric bikes but too far for us. So we did one of them for a way down the side of Lake Dunstan. Nineteen miles in total, beautiful but very twisty and up and down. We camped a few nights at the Recreational reserve Bannockburn. The Saltire flag was flying outside the old grocery shop.
    The names of places in this area reflects the population who settled here examples being, Ettrick, Criffel peak, Mt Cardrona, Dumbarton, Kelso, etc, etc.
    Decided to go back north to Twizel but first a visit to Clyde, a lovely little village/town at the end of Lake Dunstan. Spectacular scenery we could see the cycle route on the opposite side of the lake cut out of rock in places.
    A long day so we stopped at The Lindis Pass Hotel DOC site again.
    Spent a few more days around Twizel with another night at the Combined Services Club. Did really well on one of the quick raffles with number eight coming up three times in the same draw.😀
    More attempts to catch that elusive fish, with no luck.
    Visited Lake Ohau DOC site next to Middleton Lake. Loved it here but the challenge of catching a fish lured us back to Poaka DOC for a few more nights.
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  • Onwards to Wanaka to Greymouth

    December 17, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Onwards towards our Christmas destination. Stopped at Wanaka for a few nights. Very beautiful area. First night was at Luggate Cricket Club POP which was great we could sit by the van and watch the match. Could have been anywhere in England on a Saturday afternoon. Only difference was the sandflies.
    Took the opportunity to climb up to Diamond Lake but never made it to the top as both of us felt unwell. Whether we climbed too quickly or what it was we don’t know but rested for a while and then decended.
    Next day we drove down the length of lake Wanaka and through the stunning Haast pass to reach the West Coast.
    The plan was to spend a night at Jackson Bay but as we hit the west coast the weather changed to heavy rain so we spent the night at the excellent motor lodge at Haast. Not before we had fish and chips at the Craypot Cafe , Jackson Bay. Very expensive and just ok but then it was at the end of long dead end road, no passing trade. Also dry enough to walk the track to Ocean bay. It had the most unusual collection of rocks on this beach including a rock that looked like a dinosaur s head.
    Onward the next day, we were in for a very long days driving. We stopped for a break at Whataroa with its brilliant Christmas tree and Ross a gold mining town with a great trail through the old mine workings and an impressive Chinese garden, a memorial to the Chinese gold miners that settled here,. The pub here was something to behold. Straight out of a cowdy set with old piano and noisy crowd, unfortunately no photo. A place to return to as lots to see. .
    Stopped a night at Greymouth to do our Christmas shopping..
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  • Karamea

    Dec 22–30, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Karamea is an hour and a half drive from the nearest town over a twisting mountain road. On the north west coast of South Island.
    It is famed for its whitebait fishing and between August and November attracts people from all over. Otherwise it is a quiet and off the beaten track. The community is similar to Takaka with its mix of residents of all nationalities and characters. The weather rarely gets below 10c and gets up to 25c so they can grow almost anything here. Even some of the strange fruits we saw on Samoa. They can even grow bananas. Although not very big. The locals tell the visitors that it rains most of the year. But it doesn’t!!!🤣
    We had heard that Colin and Leslie the wardens of the campground love Christmas and that it is a good place to be over the holidays. The site is on the Domain (sports ground) with a swimming pool bowling club and tennis courts next door. The old rugby club serves as lounge kitchen, showers and a bunk room.
    Visited the Oparara basin 16k north of Karamea.. Very dense natural forest, the road was a challenge both in and out but the Hiace dealt with it brilliantly. The Moria Gate arch was the smallest but most impressive. The Oparara arch was over 200m long..
    Sandfly central!!!
    Also cycled and walked to a tall Rimu tree.
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  • Christmas and New Year

    December 23, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Spent Christmas at Karamea. Leslie cooked an amazing spread for everyone on site. She made far too much though, to the delight of some American girls who spent the next four days eating it up. Spoke to some interesting people but we thought there would be more people there.
    Met Mike down at Westport and we decided to visit Denniston mine which is on the top of a hill. Unfortunately there had been a slip a short while before we arrived so the road was closed. Did the Cape Foulwind walkway instead. It ends at a seal colony but there were only five seals lazing on the rocks so not that impressive. The day was made by the Boysenberry ice cream we bought at the little cafe. Boysenberries are like overgrown blackberries and are even better blitzed with frozen yoghurt rather than ice cream.
    We moved on to Charleston for New Year. Nice pub next to the campsite where Steve and Mike beat the locals at pool but they closed before midnight so we went back to the campsite where most people were in bed. I sang Auld Lang Syne at midnight and went to bed😜
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  • He did it !!!!

    Jan 4–11, 2024 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We decide that as Mike had to get back to Christchurch we would head back up to Karamea. After a night freedom camping at Westport to give a chance to do a bit of shopping and buy provisions we got on our way.
    Only back one day and Steve thought he would try fishing on the river. He had been trying for four hours to catch something when a local rocked up with his very expensive kit. He could cast twice as far as Steve with his small reel. We watched as he pulled in three Kahawai. Then Steve got a bite but as he reeled it in it jumped out of the water, did a somersault and freed itself. Within a couple of minutes he had caught another one this time he managed to land it.
    Back to the campground ,Colin weighed it and it came in at a very respectable 4 1/ 2 lbs.
    After cleaning it we decided to have salad for tea, too much blood and guts but did eat it in a fish curry the following night. Kahawai is quite a strong tasting fish so not great just grilled.
    The weather has been much better,, the wind has died down and we have west coast sunsets, summer starts at the beginning of January.
    Did an excellent four and a half hour walk on the Fenian walkway to Adam’s Flatt. Following an old gold miners bridleway. We reflected the whole time on how hardy these people were to carve their way through dense forest up in the hills three hours away from civilisation. Brilliantly maintained by DOC there was a reproduction of the original slab house on Adam’s Flatt, a small clearing ,that they would have lived in. Kitted out with a platform, hikers use it for overnights today. Had a great day!!!
    Went up to the end of the road 16km beyond Karamea, the start of the Heapy track one of NZ’s great walks. There was a DOC campsite, would have camped there but there was a lot of sandflies. We walked the first hour of the Heapy track to Scott’s Beach. Like being on a desert island. Just wonderful!
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  • Beyond Karamea

    Jan 13–20, 2024 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    With great sadness we left Karamea.
    The other side of the mountain is a campsite called Gentle Annie’s, highly rated we decided to stay a couple of nights. This would have been a great site outside of school holidays but it was heaving and the facilities did not stand up to the pressure. That said we did a pleasant bush walk, the Bali style showers were really good and we made use of the woodfired pizza oven which produced great tasting pizzas.
    Two nights was enough though so onward towards Westport. We had heard that the road Denniston had been opened so we tried again. Well worth the effort! This town on the top of the hill grew up around the coal mines. Only a handful of houses there now but lots of history and fantastic views. The coal was carried down to the coast in overhead wagons. (Aerial ropeway) A bit like cable cars but carrying coal. As always just amazing engineering.
    Another couple of nights at Westport where we visited our first AP show, agricultural and pastoral. Like our agricultural shows with the addition of speed log cutting and axe throwing competitions. Fairground rides were very old fashioned. Could have been Beamish.
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  • The road back to Christchurch and around

    January 14, 2024 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    Stopped off at Reefton on the way back to Christchurch. Rain plus sandflies meant we only stayed a couple of nights.
    Plus a couple of nights at Rangiora where we visited the RSA club. Burns suppers advertised, it’s a thing here too!
    The idea was to spend the rest of our time in Christchurch playing bridge and table tennis. BUT decided to spend another weekend at the Springfield domain site which we visited before Christmas. Big mistake!! Fell playing tennis and broke my wrist. Spent six and a half hours in the emergency department and only got out just in time to meet Steve and Mike for a first table that we had booked. All plans up the swanny!!!!
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  • Wanaka and meet the friends

    Jan 31–Feb 21, 2024 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Drove down to Wanaka. Stopped at Mt Sommers domain, Twizel, Geraldine and Fairly arriving at Howea Campsite near Wanaka on the 3rd Feb
    Met some of Mike pals for the first time. Christel, Andre and Francesca joined us. Spent a few days with them. Went for a drive towards Haast with the intention of walking the Blue Pools track but it was closed so we walked a short track up to a viewpoint instead. Stopped off at Fantail falls on the way back to camp. Mikes friends are just as mad as he is. Went paddling, it was very cold only 9C.
    Did a lakeside walk the following day. Too windy for fishing or SUPs.
    Back to Christchurch via a night on Geraldine racecourse on the 6th Feb for a hospital appointment. 33C cooled down at night to 24C
    8th Feb Steves drone arrived ,think it is going to be too light for fishing,the wind will affect it. They had fun practicing in the field behind Mikes though.
    Filled the next few days its walks along Banks peninsula, stunning views. Had a sunset cruise on the River Queen at Kaipoi.
    We’d 21st. Paint and pint at Two Thumbs. Kieran, Mike and I joined about 40 others Great fun! Everyone painting the same scene but no two paintings the same.
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  • Reefton NZMCA Rally

    Feb 22–29, 2024 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Set off the Reefton for the NZMCA rally. Over 800 caravans ,campers and motor homes from all over NZ. Very organised, vans in rows with room to let emergency vehicles access. Lots to do. Programme covering day and evening. Lots of stalls mainly caravan related but someone was selling Gisborne oranges. Bought a huge $10 bag. Best oranges in the world.
    We were by far the smallest unit on the site. There were some monsters!
    Used the Reefton swimming pool for a shower. A very rude lady got very upset with me because I took so long. Kept telling her I had a broken wrist and it was difficult. Do not often come across people like her in NZ most people are verychilled out.
    Hardly slept because of pain in wrist and on the second day fingers were swollen up like bananas. Nearest hospital Greymouth 1 1/2 hours away. Arrived at 4pm and sat for five hours as they had an emergency. Slit the cast which helped a little. Nearly 11pm when we got back to the rally.
    Decided to go over to the east coast after a night at Reefton Domain. Stayed on a cliff top site with sea lions on the beach and dolphins in the sea.
    1st March Back to Christchurch. Mike treated us to a posh meal out at Chillingham Road. A nine course meal. Unfortunately half way through I started to feel sick so got an Uber back to the van and left the boys to enjoy their meal. Sore throat next day Covid !!! Ugh!!!. Steve got it on the 4th.
    6th March set off for Lake Clearwater with Mike. Probably my favourite place on South Island. (Another one) Fabulous! Peaceful for the first couple of days we had it to ourselves. The wind got up so moved to Lake Heron where the boys took the canoe out fishing, back to lake Clearwater. Mike took his scramble bike and disappeared for an hour or so. So much freedom here.
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  • Perth

    Mar 13–27, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Flew to Perth . Spent three weekends with Luce and family and saw Jess and Sam most days. Stayed at an Airbnb with a lovely couple from South Africa, unfortunately it wasn’t the cleanest so although bedroom was clean never felt I could cook in the kitchen.
    Unfortunately when we arrived Lucy had got Covid so we met Tracy, Lucy’s pal and met Jess and Sam out of school. Large school, very modern, single story with lots of undercover areas for playtime. Lovely to see them.
    Went to outback splash a water park near their home. Just lovely. Their swimming is really coming on.
    Over the next few days went to see Sam playing football, visited their local parks and Hillary’s. Difficult to describe. An up market shopping centre with a marina and a beach enclosed away from the open sea. Lovely place, visited a few times. Also visited Mindarire on Paddy’s day. Really interesting people watching
    During the week we did a road trip to the North of Perth . Went to Cervantes via Gilberton where we watched the windsurfers. visited the strombolites ,the living rocks on a very saline lake and the Pinnacles National Park. Nice but South of Perth nicer. Then onto Geraldton a reasonable sized town.
    Other places we went included Kings park botanical gardens in Perth. Fremantle market which unfortunately was closed when we visited, but been before , Jondalup shopping centre, shopping centre which was massive and Loondalup park (weird names)
    Also visited Burns Beach. Think we will try and stay here in one of the cabins next time.
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    Trip end
    March 28, 2024