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Two Jims' European Adventure
  • Jim Fotter
Apr – Jul 2022

Two Jims' European Adventure

We're off to Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, Amsterdam, Paris, and Ireland as a retirement celebration trip. Baca lagi
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  • Jim FotterPengembaraTwo Jims' European Adventure

    Fünf Fotos-Köln Day 3

    3 Jun 2022, Jerman ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We had another unscheduled day which we are really loving. We decided to take a walk in the neighborhoods after breakfast at a nearby café.

    I suggested that we visit a museum that I had read about:NS-Dokumentationszentrum der Stadt Köln (The Nazi Socialism Documentation Center).

    Before we reached the museum, we saw a strange site, a Golden Winged Ford Fiesta on top of a city museum. We learned that it was a quirky art installation. After passing the winged vehicle, we arrived at the EL-DE Hause.

    The EL-DE house at Appellhofplatz 23-25 ​​was the headquarters of the Cologne Gestapo from 1935 to 1945. The house is named after Leopold Dahmen (LD) the original owner.

    His name became synonymous with the Nazi reign of terror in Cologne, and later dealing with the Nazi history of the city after 1945.

    The experience was quite heart wrenching to see the prison cells and interrogation rooms and to know that many brought here had no idea why they were being held and interrogated. Many of the original Jewish captives' writings on the walls of the cells remain intact.

    Hearing stories are always powerful, and this was certainly no exception. We followed the story of a young French woman who gave birth to her child while in prison, and the child was given to nuns to raise. It wasn't until many years later that the mother and daughter were reunited..

    There were stories of those who survived and who visited these cells decades later. I just can't imagine going back to a place where so much trauma occurred.

    The prison tour ends in the courtyard where hundreds of Jews and other suspected political dissidents were executed. An art installation was added to enhance the impact of the courtyard, it is filed with mirrors. Everywhere you look, you see yourself. It was a powerful and startling portrayal.

    The museum also housed a series of photographs taken by a youth who captured much of life in Cologne prior to the war and the emergence of life under Nazi Socialism. The boy was involved in the Hitler Youth movement. It was a broad portrayal of every day life and a society that became oblivious to the growing atrocities under this dictatorship.

    We left the museum and wandered past a Romanesque style church which has a considerably different style than the Gothic architecture of the Cathedral.

    After a test this afternoon, we enjoyed dinner at a nearby Vietnamese restaurant. We sat next to a young couple who had recently telecommuted in the LA area for four months to escape Cologne's cold wet winter. The raved about California, and we were remarking about all the wonderful aspects of Cologne. We both mused that we sometimes fail to acknowledge the treasures in our own back yards. It was a fun conversation to end the evening.

    We have loved Cologne, and we look forward to our next journey to Amsterdam tomorrow.
    Guten Nacht!    Baca lagi

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  • Jim FotterPengembaraTwo Jims' European Adventure

    VIJF FOTOS-Day 1 Amsterdam

    4 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    "Never Can Say Good-Bye, Nein, Nein, Nein, NEIN" (with apologies to songwriter Clifton Davis)

    This seemed to be Cologne's theme song as we attempted to catch our 12:30 train to Amsterdam. We made it a point to arrive early at the station and find that our train was scheduled for track 5. There was a delay, and we watched the boards for updates. Suddenly, at our train's schedule arrival, all information disappeared from the board without any announcement.

    We scrambled to see if the train had been moved to a different track, and we finally got into a long information line where we asked what to do next, and we were referred to the ticket office.

    It was at this point we learned that on weekends they change stations for the Cologne to Amsterdam route. The exchange went something like this:

    Ticket Agent: You're at the wrong station.
    Me: Why did the Electronic Board Say Track 5?
    TA: No it didn't.
    Me: Yes it did
    TA: No it didn't.
    ME Yes, it did. Plus it said which car.
    TA: No, it didn't. And there was an announcement that on weekends this route is at the other station.
    ME: No, there wasn't.
    TA: Yes, there was.

    At this point, I was having flashbacks of one of my favorite Monty Python sketches:
    https://youtu.be/ohDB5gbtaEQ

    The ticket agent then proceeded to berate me about how I just should have known about the change. I grew silent for a few moments and looked at her, now keenly in touch with my "inner bitch" , and I interrupted her "When you are finished scolding me, can we make some time to talk about the next steps that we can take to get to Amsterdam?"

    She paused for a moment, and then gave us very helpful information that another train would be departing from the other station at 2:30. She wrote the information down with the name of the other station followed by an exclamation point.

    The train to Amsterdam was pleasant and traveled through farmland where we saw many contemporary windmills and a few that we associate with the older days of Holland.

    We arrived at Amsterdam's Central Station which was loud and busy. We checked the map to locate the walk to our canal house, and figured out the route.
    There was one catch.
    We could not find a way to exit the station that didn't have a gate barring our exit without a ticket. I tried using the QR code for the train trip, but that didn't work. At this point, I was expecting an announcement that we were being returned to Cologne until we signed a complete confession that we went to the wrong station for departure.

    I finally pushed the help button near the gate, and we were set free from Train Station Hell. We circumnavigated the station completely to avoid the risk of taking what appeared to be the more efficient route to our flat.

    It was about a fifteen-minute walk through a lively scene. I do think that we'll have to be on high alert to avoid a tragic death by getting run over by a bicycle. The little bicycle bells do warn constantly of impending doom. We both agreed that we are very grateful not to have a car here.

    We were both a bit beat, and Jim C observed that we had the equivalent of a stressful 8-hour workday. Given that those days are so much more rare in retirement, I have to remember that we're pretty fortunate.

    We did make it to the address of our flat, and we knew that the owner would be delayed so we grabbed a bite across the street. There happens to be a pub at the foot of our flat so we grabbed a beer and waiting for the owner to arrive. Jim C was in heaven because he had been deprived of IPA's and the pub has several.

    We met the owner, Sebastiaan, who gave us an orientation of the small cozy flat. I should note that the flat is reached coming up a spiral staircase, and we're at the top of the building. It's really nice to have our own space. Sebastiaan left us a beautiful flower arrangement (he's a florist and a bottle of champagne on ice.

    After we settled in, we walked through the neighborhood. Jim C noticed that some of the homes leaned pretty significantly. I checked out one of the coffee shops that sells cannabis. It was fun to see the social atmosphere in addition to the store and their goods.

    As we were headed back, we caught a brilliant sunset. The reflection on the canal is a treasure.

    Goedenacht!

    p.s. A final word to my Cologne Ticket Agent:
    Yes, it did!!    Baca lagi

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    VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 2

    5 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    We rested well in our tiny flat, and noted that forecast warned of heavy rains later in the day. Jim C recommended that we take advantage of the window before the storm, and we decided to head toward the Royal Palace.

    The palace was initially the city hall about two hundred years ago. Louis Bonaparte, brother of Napoleon, took it as his palace, and it remained with royal families after. Today is is used for receiving dignitaries and other formal functions.

    We noticed several rainbow flags in one of the neighborhoods. Although I came out as a gay man over 29 years, symbols of affirmation still matter.

    We visited the Homomonument which at first glance at the name seems whimsical. That couldn't be farther from the truth.

    According to the website"... the Homomonument symbolizes the long road to gay emancipation in the Netherlands and far beyond.

    It consists of three triangles of Rosa Porinogranite that together form one large triangle. The three triangles represent the past, present and future. Here we commemorate everyone who was killed or persecuted (and still is) because of his or her sexual preference and/or identity. Here we celebrate the freedom to be who we are. Here we call for vigilance for the present and the future."

    The triangles are significant because like Jews being forced to wear a yellow Star of David, gay men were forced to wear a pink triangle 🔺️

    We noted the writing on one of the triangles and learned the following translation: "Towards Friendship Such an Indulgent Desire", a line of poetry by the homosexual, Jewish writer Jacob Israel de Haan (1881-1924).

    As we walked past this monument, we found the nearby iAnn Frank House that we will visit later this week. We also noticed small gold inscriptions of the names of those individuals who were taken and died in concentration camps.

    As we walked home, we noticed among the hundreds of bikes parked along the canals, and we're elaborately decorated with flowers. We learned that a local artist initially did this for his wife's bike as she has epilepsy and attendant memory troubles, and he wanted to make the bike distinctive so his wife could find it.

    The artist, Warren Gregory, is initially from the United States. According to a news article, "Seeing the joy that his bikes were bringing to passersby, Warren started decorating more bikes and scattering them throughout the city of Amsterdam. He makes them in his Amsterdam houseboat, and then ventures out into the streets early in the morning to leave his gifts to the world before the city wakes up."

    On the way home we picked up some groceries, local bread and varied flavored Dutch cheeses. Jim went grocery shops and I checked out two of hundreds of "coffee shops" to purchase aptly named cannabis infused "space cakes. I ate about half of a lemon space cake, and let's just say that made for a relaxing afternoon.

    The rains came later in the day. We made a call home to Genevieve and Olive. It's fun to watch Olive jump into a conversation and interject her news. Her sentences and stories are noticeably longer, and we are proud witnesses to her growth.

    We headed to a really spectacular restaurant around the corner, and we managed to avoid getting drenched. Jim enjoyed his risotto dish and I had lamb..Dessert was decadent. Jim had a waffle with topping that was resembled Bananas Foster. I had a slice of Dutch apple pie. It was so good.

    We're off to the Van Gogh museum tomorrow.

    Good night, all 💞

    Jim    Baca lagi

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    VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 3

    6 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    After a light breakfast in our flat, we made our way to the Van Gogh Museum.

    My interest in Van Gogh really did stem from my intrigue about Don McLean's narrative hit "Vincent" where the narrator laments that he couldn't tell Vincent how beautiful he was. About the same time, I was broadening the songs that I could play on the guitar and "Vincent" was one of the pieces I learned. I tend to be drawn to sad narrative songs. This one has always drawn me in because it's a good reminder to let others know that their existence matters.

    I had previously seen Van Gogh's "A Starry Night" and a few of his other works at the MOMA in New York City. The thought of seeing so many more pieces of his artwork in one place was exciting.

    We loved the layout of the museum. We began with a temporary exhibit displaying mostly a number of painting of olive trees. I smiled when I recalled a recent conversation with our granddaughter Olive and showing her the olive trees on the property- "Me Trees" as coined by Olive.

    The museum integrated a chronology with the display of Van Gogh's drawings and paintings. There were also other artists' works represented ranging from artists who influenced him to those artists who were his friends. It was interesting to see comparative paintings of the same subject.

    He was so prolific, and you could see his thought process and his desire to create variations of a scene from different perspectives (time of day, season).

    It's hard to think that he was so tortured that he ended his life at 37 never knowing his impact on art.

    Part of Vincent's story revolves around his very close relationship with his brother,Theo. I loved the inclusion of letters between them. Although younger than Vincent, he also died about six months later. They are buried next to each other outside of Paris. This story really is grounded in the importance of siblings. I'm grateful for mine.

    When I saw Van Gogh's "Sunflowers", in took on new meaning as I thought about the people in Ukraine. On the way back, we walked through a nearby park. I love greenspace in urban areas.We enjoyed a great lunch, and we've been relaxing at the flat. We had a light dinner of local breads, cheeses, and meats at the flat. It was another great day in a beautiful city. We're off to a pub or two before calling it a night.

    💖    Baca lagi

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    VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 4

    7 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Today was a fairly unplanned day initially other than we decided to take a train to The Hague, Netherlands. It's about 30 miles away. Jim C discovered that there was an Escher Museum there so we decided to book tickets to see it.

    Although Amsterdam is the capital of The Netherlands, The Hague is the center for most of the government function.

    The train ride was a comfortable 50-minute ride through a mostly rural area. We walked over to the museum through a beautiful wooded greenspace. The Escher Museum is housed in a beautiful two-hundred year old-palace used for the Queen Mother for decades. The setting really added to the experience.

    It was fun to see Escher's works, and the developmental story about his craft moved to the world of perspectives and the infinity of tesseracts. I had previously assumed that he had a deep mathematic background, but that's not true according to his story.

    Escher's work intrigues me because it's playful, but also seems to turn something impossible to something that is strangely plausible. I also think of the scene in the movie "Labyrinth" which also fuels my nightmares of heights and precarious drops: https://youtu.be/k1Z2pk5J9Ng

    Fittingly, the return to the main floor was down a spiral staircase that when looking down seems to go to infinity. Full disclosure: Jim C looked down and took the photo. I didn't-just focusing on a step at a time. 😬

    After we left the museum, we took the tram to the beach. We arrived adjacent to what I have dubbed "Oh Hel Nee Pier"boasting a ferris wheel a large tower and crane for zipline and bungee jumping. I reflected on my entrenched acrophobia, and decided that it's still the way for me. It was fun to put our feet in the water; the North Sea wasn't as cold as we expected. We also tried bitteballen (round fried balls with mostly white sauce) and fries as we watched families gather and play on the beach.

    We left the beach in search of the Peace Palace (Vredespaleis), a building funded by Andrew Carnegie. This palace holds the International Court of Justice, the principal judicial body of the United Nations; and the Permanent Court of Arbitration, a non-U.N. body that works to resolve disputes between member states and countries. The Palace was not open to visitors when we arrived so we missed the opportunity to see the library.

    Just outside the gates of the Palace on the Carnegieplein, the Herdenkingsmonument 1940-1945 The Hague Memorial)

    The monument was created in 1992 by sculptor Appie Drielsma. The Jewish Drielsma had survived the war as a boy by going into hiding.  This is one of several war memorials that he created.

    The monument is made up of four columns. These columns symbolize the four groups in society at the time of the Second World War: neutral, Roman Catholic, Protestant and Jewish. Unlike a number of memorial monuments, the Hague Memorial is not a monument that commemorates a specific group of people or a specific event. The memorial honors everyone who died in the war.

    Inscribed nearby are these culminating thoughts:

    "This monument wants to commemorate without distinction all those who paid with their lives for the delusions that gave rise to National Socialism. It silently calls for vigilance against the impulses in the human mind that can fuel such delusions and lead to such degrading political systems. In that sense, it wants to be a sign for generations to come.”

    The message feels more real in our own backyard. I hope that we learn from the lessons of the past and heed the warnings.

    As we walked away from the Palace, we observed many embassies along the way with their flags flying. Many also had banners or flags in support of Ukraine. There was also a massive Progress flag on display which makes us proud of the Portland artist who designed it and recognition of Pride month.

    It really was a great walking day as the day was sunnier than originally forecasted and the temperature was pleasant.

    We ended the evening with a leisurely Italian dinner while we people watched in one of the gay districts. The portions were generous and tasty (Jim C had tortellini and I had lasagna).

    We are finding that "play it by ear" travel days are very rewarding.

    Dag vrienden en familie.    Baca lagi

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    VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 5

    8 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    After a light breakfast at our flat we headed out to a meeting point adjacent to the Heritage Museum for a small-group arranged tour to learn about the historic Jewish quarter (Jodenburt), the small area between Nieuwmarkt and Plantage.

    Jonathan, our guide, was personable and gave us a rich context for our walk. We gathered for our tour on the Amstel River. Our guide shared with us that it was the only natural waterway as opposed to the canals running through the city. The Amstel River was dammed by fisherman and documents dated back to 1275 show proof of the bridge and waiving toll charges from those deemed to be residents of the area-thus, the city was named Amsterdam. I remarked to Jim that the name Amstel was familiar. He replied, "Yes, it's the name of a Dutch beer that isn't any good. "

    We began the tour with a stop at the Names Memorial. The names of Jewish residents who perished is reflected one at a time in a single brick. Over 102,000 Jewish people from Amsterdam perished of the 140,000 people who lived there. Like the Names Memorial Quilt, the tangible display of the number of people murdered makes the loss something that is less abstract. Where the brick walls and the metal shapes intersect, there is a narrow void that makes the steel letters seem to float. This symbolizes the interruption in the history and culture of the Dutch people. There are four reflective Hebrew letters on the top of the walls signifying "In Memory of..."

    I try to imagine 73% of my community dying while the world watched. Amsterdam has taken great pains to try and pain that picture.

    Both in Cologne and Amsterdam, we have noticed the brass squares on the streets with persons' names, birthdays and where they were murdered. We learned from Jonathan that The Netherlands has about 8,500 Stolpersteine, (stumbling stones), the brass memorial plaques embedded in the street that call on passers-by to remember individual victims of the Nazi genocide and oppression, a mental “stumbling” that forces pedestrians to reckon with the past. In further research, I learned that Amsterdam placed the first stumbling stones of known gay resistance fighters about a year ago.

    We stopped by the Portuguese Synagogue was built in the late 17th century. During this period, many Jewish people fled from the Iberian peninsula to escape persecution and settled in the Dutch Republic, partly due to the country’s liberal religious laws. The Portuguese Synagogue is still an important place of worship and contains one of the oldest Jewish libraries in the world, Ets Haim Library.

    We heard stories that Amsterdam remained a safe haven for Jews and unlike other cities where Jewish communities were forced into ghettos, the opportunities were broad and integrated.

    Amsterdam was neutral during WWI and they initially tried the same position during WWII. We heard the background story of Otto Frank, father of Anne Frank, who chose to move to Amsterdam at the time of Hitler's early succession with the thought that it would be safer than Germany.

    As we know in history, Amsterdam was occupied early in the war by the Nazis. Over a short period of time Jews were stripped of many rights and they were increasingly isolated and dehumanized leading to mass executions and deportations to concentration camps.

    Our guide told us a story of a 1941 initial uprising of workers who rebelled against the deportation of the Jews. A statue symbolizing that effort portrays a dock worker and the date of the general strike that completely shut trade down.
    It was a powerful story of Labor standing up fire the rights of others.

    We passed through one of the old parks where the SpiegelMonument a 1977 memorial was created to commemorate those murdered in Auchwitz. When I approached the flat mirror display, my first impression was that the art installation had been vandalized as the mirrors were smashed and fragmented. We learned that this was the portrayal by the artist, as a display over an urn carrying cremains of Auschwitz victims. From the website describing the monument:

    "The monument is made up of broken mirrors and it bears the inscription 'Never again Auschwitz'. The sky is reflected in the mirrors. According to Wolkers, the broken mirrors symbolize that the sky will never be unblemished after Auschwitz:

    Heaven continues to be violated forever.It is a horrific attack on everything a person stands for."

    We ended the tour learning that the original Jewish quarter, while referenced in history. Around the end of the war, there was a severe winter and wood was salvaged from the empty Jewish households as fuel for heating. It was haunting to see all the levels of eradication.

    As we were leaving the area, we saw the birth home of Rembrandt, who lived in the old Jewish quarter.

    After a light lunch, we returned to our flat just as the rains were beginning. We enjoyed a quiet afternoon, and we processed our learning for the day.

    We wrapped the day with a great dinner at "The Garlic Queen" where all of the courses-cocktails, appetizers, main course and dessert contain garlic. It was quite good, and a nice way to end the day.    Baca lagi

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    VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 6

    9 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    For a good part of the day, we enjoyed a leisurely day near our flat as we took care of a few necessities: laundry and haircuts. It was sunny and cool, the best weather day since we arrived.

    I think I enjoy people watching nearly as much as planned excursions, and today was no exception. We sat by the canal outside of our flat with a few beers and a light lunch and we took in the sights around us.

    This evening, we went to the Anne Frank House. The museum reminds me of the Civil Rights Museum in Memphis that incorporates the Lorraine Motel, the site where Martin Luther King was assassinated, as part of the museum's structure. Similarly, a modern structure is integrated with the Frank house.

    We were not allowed to take photos inside the house. I suspect that most people are somewhat familiar with Anne Frank and her diary that captured time when her family and acquaintances hid for two years from the Nazis. They were discovered and deported to concentration camps where all perished with the exception of Otto Frank.

    Before entering the house, I wondered what would be the most impactful aspects of the visit. Would it be seeing the bookcase that hid the entrance to the back of the house? Would it be moving through the secret living quarters with seven other people for two years without being able to leave, make sounds during the day, or go near a window? Would it be imagining the Nazis discovering the hiding space and being taken away from the home to an uncertain future?

    For me, two things really hit hard: The first was seeing pencil lines on the wall measuring Anne's changing height. It reminded me of a house that we bought where those same children's height archives remained from the previous owner. Ordinary people were doing ordinary things.

    The second were the diaries themselves. The opportunity to see Anne's writing as an early teen, capturing her observations about every day life in hiding, but also navigating bigger a world that allowed the horrific events to take place.

    I have a few takeaways from our time at the house.

    As a father, I can only imagine how difficult it would be to think that you had taken steps to protect your family, only to lose them all and to be the left to retell the painful story.

    As a former teacher who assigned students to keep journals, I'm reminded that the insights of youth can be quite powerful. They express their thoughts about daily life and their hopes and fears. I learned much from my students. They didn't know it at the time, but they were my teachers.

    Like many, experiencing nearly two years of various degrees of isolation during the pandemic, I'm reminded of my privilege, and what we endured was minimal by comparison.

    I wonder about the mindset that rationalized the need for a nationalistic Nazi Socialist party and accepted a deranged leader to commit the most evil act in our world's history. While it seems like hyperbole to compare current times to this period, I do think that we have become numb to similar rationalizations jeopardizing democracy in our own backyard.

    I celebrate the allies who risked their lives to try and protect their friends despite serious personal risk.

    I'm reminded that the story of Anne Frank is one story. The stories of millions are lost and have not been told individually. The promise of so many people was eradicated.

    We must do everything we can to make sure that this never happens again and to heed the advice of a wise 14-year old:

    "How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to improve the world." Anne Frank    Baca lagi

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    VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 7

    10 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After a late-night out, we enjoyed sleeping in. With the weather forecast improving as the day progressed we opted to check out a few of Amsterdam's parks.

    On the way we stopped by the Westerkerk, the Dutch Reform Church where Rembrsndt was buried. Rembrandt died a pauper, and eventually his remains were removed and destroyed which was customary for the treatment of the poor.

    We noticed the memorial plaque as well as the magnificent organ with biblical stories painted on adjacent panels.

    After leaving the church we took a tram to Rembrandt Park. It was nice to be in green space. Our guide the other day remarked that Amsterdam needed extra intentionality to create parks given its below sea level elevation. It was fun to walk by the petting zoo and a rather bizarre green ceramic statue. We tried looking it up, and we still don't have a good sense about it. It appeared to be vandalized, and we found a reference that the city created a rule for the commission of this work that if it was vandalized that the ceramic will be replaced by bronze as a tangible sign of vandalism and transformation.

    Before we traveled to the next park, we enjoyed lunch by a canal. It was fun to watch the people, particularly children accompanied by their parents as they left school by bike or walking. The equivalent of the Good Humor Man was strategically parked with his ice cream cart joined by a long line of children ready to sample his wares. It reminded me of living in Connecticut when I was young and getting ice cream after swimming lessons.

    Vondel Park was very pretty with a great rose garden. The park is named after a Dutch playwright and poet.

    As we made our way back to the flat, I stopped at La Tertulia, a kaffee shop that my son recommended, to purchase another space cake. I do admit that I have missed the opportunity to sample cannabis edibles. They were labeled in a range from beginner to advanced plus. I chose the latter, and I have sampled about half of a peanut butter space cake. If I remember, I'll let you know how that goes. 😏

    We ended the evening with a traditional Indonesian Rice Table (Rijtstaffel) meal. Rijstaffel is not actually an Indonesian meal. Instead, it days back to the period of Dutch colonization over what is now Indonesia (1602-1942), when the Dutch East India Company traded in the natural resources of the Spice Islands.

    The eighteen dishes were all colors of the rainbow and arranged from mild to spicy. We enjoyed the choices, and we finished the meal with mango ice cream garnished with lingon berries and accompanied by spice cake.

    It was another fun day in Amsterdam. We are grateful for our time here.    Baca lagi

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    VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 8

    11 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today was a pretty quiet day as we started making preparations for our travels to Paris tomorrow morning.

    I thought this might be a good time to share overall impressions of the city. First, the canals really do add to the charm of the city. We love the canal house facades, and the quirky use of space.

    I won't miss the ching-ching sounds of bicycles or the tell-tale rattle from behind that a bike is approaching. I have found the bicycle bells annoying even though I like the concept of less cars. Jim C and I both observed that the least consideration is for pedestrians. Crosswalks without a controlled walk/ don't walk light mean nothing. One must remain ever vigilant about not colliding with someone on a bike.

    We did take a brief stroll through the red light district. It felt a lot like a walk on Bourbon Street in New Orleans. I recognize that I need to keep my judgment in check, but other than the novelty of this historical area, I wondered about the quality of life for the sex workers. It does appear that laws provide some protections for them.

    I liked the social aspect of the kaffee houses. It's interesting how the laws work where you can legally smoke in the cafes, but it's technically illegal to smoke on the street. It's clear from the frequent whiffs of smoke that many ignore the rule.

    I will not miss steep narrow spiral staircases which are understandably ubiquitous in the city. Our flat was essentially in attic space. We got used to navigating the steps over time although I had the extra challenge of ducking to avoid concussions with low beams and ceilings.

    The food and service were all great. We found all service workers to be friendly and helpful. We loved the outdoor café atmosphere. We enjoyed different flavor variations of Dutch cheese, and the opportunity to sample local and Belgian beers.

    When we learned more about the stories of Jews who lived in Amsterdam and the number who perished in the Holocaust, I was reminded of a book that I read when I was about eight years old: "The Winged Watchman". It was a fictional children's story about the Nazi occupation of The Netherlands, a family who were part the resistance fighters and the dynamics of other neighbors who were Nazi sympathizers. It was a very challenging topic, and I remember asking my parents many questions about the Nazis and treatment of the Jews. I'm grateful that I wasn't sheltered from these stories. The question I had as a child remains: How could anything like the Holocaust happen?

    Jim C and I compared our impressions of the week at a local Soul Food Café for dinner. We ended the night with a very late visit to a dance club. The atmosphere was charged and the music was WAY TOO LOUD. It was still a fun way to end the week.

    Amsterdam is a city of contrast. It's a playground for the young, and a somber reminder to those who pause to reflect upon the unfathomable devastation during WWII.

    We will be back for a few more days next week with the opportunity to sleep on a boat.

    Be well,
    Jim    Baca lagi

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    CINQ FOTOS-Paris Day 1

    12 Jun 2022, Perancis ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We bid a temporary farewell to Amsterdam as we will return later this week. We had an easy fast train trip to Paris, and we passed through a few major cities in Belgium on the way. With the exception of the cities, we mostly appeared to travel through farmland. We arrived in Paris a little before 3 pm, and we made our way to the room that we are renting.

    I do think this is one of the nicest weather days that we've had since we left Portland in April. It was dry and sunny with a slight breeze.

    We were greeted by Stephan and Stephane, two very sweet men who welcomed us with hibiscus tea and a fruit galette. They live on a spacious 5th floor flat, and we have a very nice guest room. They gave us many recommendations of walks to take, and we enjoyed learning about the highlights of the city through their eyes.

    I shared with them that my actual surname should have been Fortin. Although, I have very deep French-Canadian roots, we located the areas where my French ancestors lived not too far outside of Paris.

    We decided to head on a walk near a canal towards the gay district. As we crossed the River Seine we caught our first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower an impressive figure in the distance and the visual reality check that we were really in Paris and not Las Vegas.

    We stopped by the gay district for a drink and then we strolled the streets in the area without a set destination. We did find Notre Dame which is still closed and under reconstruction after the devastating 2019 fire. The construction site has very detailed panels about the efforts to rebuild and replicate what was lost.

    We ended the evening with dinner at TaTa Hamburgers, and I had probably the best hamburger that I've had since time in the states.

    We retired for the night, and we look forward to our first full day tomorrow.

    Bonne Nuit!    Baca lagi

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    CINQ FOTOS-Paris Day 2

    13 Jun 2022, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We woke up this morning to a generous breakfast made by our hosts to start the day.
    I managed to sleep in a bit, and I'm grateful for the rest before an eventful day.

    First on the agenda this morning was a trip to the Louvre Museum. Our hosts sent us tram connection routes, and it was a crowded, but easy ride over.

    The tram stop was very close to the Louvre, and we walked over to get in line. Although we had a timed entrance, getting into the Louvre still required a fairly long wait before getting into the museum.

    It was interesting to see additional Greek antiquities and compare them to our travels in Sicily and the Museo Archaelogico in Naples.

    We decided to explore the Islamic exhibit, and it was really quite beautiful. I admittedly hold some deep prejudices about some Islamic countries, particularly as it applies to horrible treatment of women and GLBT people. The exhibits were beautiful, particularly the pottery.
    Jim C offered a poignant reflection that it was a missed opportunity to create displays of artwork on a time continuum rather than socio-political divides. I'd further offer the thought that the creation of art in all forms is an opportunity to demonstrate commonality rather than differences.

    We did see all the popular attractions at the Louvre. The Venus de Milo was incredible, abs I enjoyed getting close to the Mona Lisa. It's smaller than I expected, but I still thought it was cool to see it in person.

    In some of the Biblical portrayals, I find it interesting, and a little creepy, that there is "spoiler alert" foreshadowing of the crucifixion of Christ. One such portrayal is of Jesus and John the Baptist playing together as toddlers under the watchful eye of Mary. John is holding a small crucifix in the painting.

    Once we witnessed some of the popular pieces, we talked about how downplayed the fact that the Louvre was once a significant palace. This contrasted our experience at the Hague where both Escher's artwork and the palace were acknowledged and celebrated.

    When we left the museum, we walked near the adjacent garden with several sculptures. There were also a couple of small reservoirs with chairs and reclining chairs around the perimeter. It was a beautiful day, and many took the opportunity to bask in the sun and chat.

    When we left the museum and gardens we looked for a place to grab lunch. We found a great outdoor café and we split a dish of croque monsieur, a ham and cheese grilled sandwich that was grilled and smothered with gruyere cheese. It was quite rich and tasty with a glass of Chardonnay.

    After lunch we went to the Opera House which inspired the writing of the "Phantom of the Opera". The hall was beautiful and ornate. We thought how fun it would be to see a performance in the Hall like we did in Barcelona's Palau de Música nearly twomonths earlier.

    We returned to our flat and we enjoyed sums relaxation time. We made plans to go to dinner at a restaurant close to Moulin Rouge, at the recommendation of our hosts. We had the added bonus of joining a couple we met online, and we were reminded of our "small world" as we have many friends in common in New England and the Pacific NW.

    We wrapped the evening with a very late-night performance at the Moulin Rouge, a performance hall dating back to the late 1800's that has witnessed performances from the likes of Edith Piaf, and Collette, a performer who almost caused Moulin Rouge to be closed when she gave a lengthy kiss to one of the other female performers.

    We were seated next to a couple from New York who had recently married and were on their honeymoon. We enjoyed our conversation with them, and we compared some of our favorite European experiences.

    It was noticeable that the women performed with very little clothing and the men, in contrast were fully clothed. Similarly, the women often made many sexual gestures, and the men's dancing was a bit sterile in comparison. There were some unusual circus type acts including a woman who swam in a water tank with pythons, as well as amazing balancing acts by men. A big hit with the audience was a couple who did amazing choreographed maneuvers on roller skates. The show concluded with a rousing performance of the Can Can

    We made the most of our first full day in Paris, and we look forward to time with friends tomorrow.
    Bonne nuit, amis et famille!    Baca lagi

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    CINQ FOTOS- Day 3 Paris

    14 Jun 2022, Perancis ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    We started the day with another wonderful breakfast prepared by our hosts. The feature pastry was a clafoutis, a rich cherry cake.

    When we booked our travels to Paris, it was a bit of an afterthought. We realized that the proximity by fast train from Amsterdam made an easy trip. We also knew that it would be impossible to select too many attractions in such a large city with so much to do.

    Our learning in two months on the road is that some of the most priceless adventures have been to just wander and explore. This was one of those days as we had the opportunity to meet the mother and her husband of one of our good friends back home, Judith and her husband Chris and our friend Khoa later in the day.

    Judith proposed that we meet in Place du Trocadero, a plaza and gardens with spectacular views of the Eiffel Tower. After a warm greeting, we enjoyed our walk near the tower and the adjacent greenspace. Judith told us about the different neighborhoods that we were ealking through. We had a leisurely lunch at a classic French restaurant, and we enjoyed our conversation. After our farewells, we returned to the flat, and I took a very long nap. I had been up late after Moulin Rouge realizing that too much Coke Zero at dinner meant Sleep Zero due to excess caffeine consumption.

    Our friend, Khoa, who we've known for about ten years offered to meet us for drinks and dinner. It was fun to visit with him to catch up as we last hosted him in our home in 2018.

    The restaurant was also a traditional French Restaurant, and I enjoyed the lamb. While Jim C enjoyed the baked Camenbert cheese with fries. As we were leaving the restaurant, we met Khoa's partner and exchanged greetings.

    We decided to skip the metro and make the two-mile walk home on a beautiful Parisian night. The temperature was perfect, and we enjoyed the walk. It looks like Paris is going to heat up to about 38°C this weekend, and I'm glad to miss it as I really don't like the heat.

    When we returned to the flat, our hosts Stephan and Stéphane were still awake. We had a great conversation about politics in our respective countries, while sampling their offerings of home-made apertífs.

    I think some of the best parts of our trip have been sharing times with the new people we've met as well as enjoying adventures with friends and family.

    We will have a bit more time in Paris tomorrow before we return to Amsterdam. It's been a wonderful visit. Ciao!    Baca lagi

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    Cinq Fotos-Paris Day 4

    15 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I see dead people.

    More accurately, today we visited the resting places of a number of famous people in the largest greenspace in the city.

    Before we left the flat, we enjoyed an apricot cake that Stephan made for breakfast. Last night they recommended some options for our last day in Paris. We decided to explore the Cimitèrie du Père-Lachaise.

    When we arrived at the cemetery the multitude of above-ground vaults reminded me of the cemeteries outside of New Orleans with the exception of all the trees and hills here. Famous artists, authors, composers, politicians and others are found here. There are memorials to those lost in the Holocaust. There are tributes to resistance fighters. And there are whimsical and unusual sculptures throughout.

    The chapels and monuments are quite elaborate. I'm reminded of the ways that some societies play tribute to the dead. I have always found a walk in the cemetery to be calming, and I admire the inscriptions and tributes.

    There were some gravesites that I wanted to visit. The first site was the Irish poet and playwright Oscar Wilde. While I have not read any of his works in depth, I have appreciated his quick-witted tongue and I'm drawn to his tortured story for being a man who loved other men. Wilde was imprisoned for two years in England for homosexual acts, and when he was released, he moved to France and never returned. The time in prison left him in poor health, and he died at the age of 46. The inscription on his memorial is from one his last poems:

    "And alien tears will fill for him
    Pity's long-broken urn,
    For his mourners will be outcast men,
    And outcasts always mourn"

    We also visited the gravesite of Jim Morrison. Like too many musicians of his era (Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix), he died very young. I was 9 years old when his song "Light My Fire" was released. I remember thinking the song was dumb at the time. I rediscovered Jim Morrison when I was in grad school. I liked his haunting baritone voice and I was intrigued by many of the lyrics and mood changes.

    A celebrity buried here that I knew less about was Colette, who was an actor and writer. I was reminded when we went to Moulin Rouge that she almost caused the venue to be shut down when she gave a long kiss onstage to another woman in 1907. She is known for her books, most notably a novella that was adapted for the movie Gigi.

    We also witnessed Anerican novelist Gertrude Stein's grave who is buried next to her long-time partner Alice B Toklas. I admire them as those who came before us who demonstrated living authentic lives. "A rose is a rose is a rose "

    Rather than continuing with a name-dropping list of famous dead people I have walked by, I want to offer this reflection:

    I think most of us want to be remembered.
    Did we love?
    Were we loved?
    Did we make any contribution that mattered without needing to be famous?
    Will people still talk about us when we're gone?

    I cited a few of the individuals surrounded by a cast of deceases celebrities more to illustrate that everyone has a story. If we pay attention, we can learn their stories while they are living. We can let them know that they matter and not wait to build a moss-gathering monument after they're gone.

    One of the best parts of this trip is taking time to learn the stories of others we have met in our lodging or other chance meetings. It's a great lesson to bring home, and it was a gift that this cemetery walk brought to me today.

    Au revoir and merci, Paris. It was fun. And we're back up to Amsterdam for a few days. We're wishing everyone a good night from our floating home.    Baca lagi

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    VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 9

    16 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today was a kick-back and watch the world go by day. We enjoyed time on the houseboat deck, and we had a great take-out Mediterranean meal on the deck.

    We have used our return to Amsterdam as some grounding time before our next chapter in Ireland.

    It was a beautiful sunny day. We met Ben, a young man who has just finished film school. He was very excited to learn that we were from Oregon. He has been enamored with the Oregon Trail since he was young. So we shared the stories that we knew with him.

    It's nice to be relieved of the pressure of "doing all the things", and that down time as part of vacation is about balance.    Baca lagi

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    VIJF FOTOS-Amsterdam Day 10

    17 Jun 2022, Belanda ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    I woke up this morning with cold symptoms that doubled down a bit from yesterday. We already planned a low-key day. After going out for coffee, we returned to the boat and I slept for several hours.

    Yesterday, I talked briefly about the recently graduated student. He is very enamored with the Oregon Trail. He noticed Pete the Cat, and I explained to him about this storybook character and the photos we send to our granddaughter. Ben is a graphic artist, and he felt inspired to send me an image with Pete at the reins of a Conestoga Wagon as a gift to Olive. 💞

    I woke up feeling significantly better. We enjoyed our immersion into canal life with no agenda. We heard the excited shouts of children in a nearby schoolyard. We watched young folks gather at a dock along the canal. We watched young boys jump off the foot drawbridge, and we waved to those riding by in their boats.

    The experience causes me to recall a myriad of summer adventures near the water with friends and family when I was young.

    I remember sunburns on top of sunburns and my mother slathering me with Noxema.

    I think about staying in cottages in Connecticut, Rhode Island and Cape Cod. I remember picking blueberries in Truro when I was 6. I remember the merry-go-round at Watch Hill. I remember being the only one in the family to go in the ocean at Sand Beach in Bar Harbor, and being covered with blankets when my lips turned blue. I loved bodysurfing and playing with pinball machines at the beach arcade in Misquamicut.

    I remember responding to the dare of friends to join then in jumping off a small cliff into Lake Erie. I think of times with high school friends at the Flaming Gorge in Wyoming.

    What I saw today were people enjoying the promise and gift of summer. I know that being next to some body of water in the summer provides solace.

    Another day of just being present was the perfect prescription for the day.

    Thank you, Amsterdam. Next stop: Ireland.    Baca lagi

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    CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 1

    18 Jun 2022, Ireland ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Today was a travel day as we prepared for our flight to Ireland. We heard many horror stories through local acquaintances and new reports that there were numerous flight cancellations and significant staffing shortages at Schipol.

    As we approached the first terminals of the airport, we noticed huge lines outside the airport, and we learned that was just to get in. Our Uber driver remarked, you're in Terminal 3. You're relatively likely. They will be in lines over six hours.

    Schipol is a massive international hub. When we arrived at our terminal there wasn't one sign directing us to our ticket counter. We finally asked a security person who told us where to go, and we learned that we'd have a 90-minute wait before the Air Lingus ticket agents would arrive.

    We finally dropped off our baggage and then we had another two hours of lines to get through security.

    We never worried a great deal about missing our flight as we were in the front of the queue, and we figured that the flight would have no passengers if they didn't wait.

    We did finally take off about an hour late for the hour and twenty minutes flight to Dublin. The flight was relatively smooth and we made it through passport checks without a problem.

    We picked up our rental car and prepared for the drive to our B&B in Ballintubbert. I have been very excited about this leg of the trip as we are first heading to County Laois (leesh), the region where my maternal grandmother's family are from.

    We were welcomed by Markie and Eamon who showed us around their home, a restored old store. They were very welcoming and they invited us to join them for a BBQ. I do believe that Markie grilled enough meat for 16 guests. It was quite the welcome, and they were helpful about suggestions in the county.

    It really was a wonderful first night, and we are excited about our Ireland adventure.

    Oíche mhaith (good night)    Baca lagi

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    CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 2

    19 Jun 2022, Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I think that I had the best night's sleep since we've been on the road. The night was cool and comfortable, and we were ready to try exploring County Laois.

    Once again, I am grateful for Jim's skilled driving as he navigated driving on the "wrong" side of the road on country roads that were often only about one and a half car lanes in width.

    It's amazing to be in the country of my mother's lineage and to see what it is like, to think about life there and to experience a new sense of identity. I love the blend of the old with the new, and I don't think I've seen so many shades of green in one place.

    Our first stop was the Rock of Dunamase, the ruins of Celtic Castle where you can still see the majesty of the fortification overlooking the beautiful countryside.

    We then went to check out the Slieve Bloom mountain range which are more like the hills of New England. The evergreen trees were dense and beautiful. We considered taking a trail to a high point, but upon further examination it didn't seem practical to try and walk over the soggy peat.

    We traveled to the parish of Coolrain, and I thought that we had found the church where one of my great grandmothers was baptized, but it was an Anglican Church. I think we know the actual place to go after consulting with my second cousin Kate and we're going to give it another go tomorrow.

    We drove in and by towns that were names in my family tree without much of a context. The opportunity to see these places in person is magical for me. I'm really finding it to be very grounding.

    We ended the night with a great dinner hosted by Eamon and Markie. They made a traditional of bacon (think pork roast), cabbage and potatoes. It was really wonderful, and we enjoyed our conversation.

    It's been a great launch, and we're excited about our next adventure.    Baca lagi

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    CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 3

    20 Jun 2022, Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We woke up to a beautiful sunny day, and we understand that it has been different than the weather has been for some time.

    We launched the day with breakfast in Portlaoise. I decided to try the traditional Irish breakfast with eggs, bacon, sausage, black pudding and soda bread. I was curious about black pudding which reminded me of a spicy, grained sausage patty. It was interesting, but not something I need a second time.

    We headed toward the town of Camross to find the church where my great-grandmother was baptized and those before her were buried nearby. We wandered through a nearby graveyard and talked with a very helpful caretaker. He told us that the older gravesites were in the front of the church ruins, and that the remaining headstones were mostly worn. It turns out that the civil records were lost in a fire. I do think that we were in the right area, and we were very grateful for the caretaker's assistance.

    We took a ride to neighboring County Offaly, and we traveled over the Slieve Bloom mountain range to get there. The view of the lower valley was spectacular. We made time for an ice cream break, and then we returned to the village of Ballinakill armed with more information about ancestors. As we revisited a cemetery, an older gentleman offered assistance, and he told us that there was an older abandoned church cemetery nearby. He led us over to the area and he guided us through the very overgrown and uneven terrain.

    On one level, it was disappointing not to find visual confirmation of the actual gravesites, but it was powerful to know that we were in the land where my maternal grandmother's ancestors lived- some for their whole lives, and others before they emigrated to the States.

    I was touched by Jim C's observation: "When your great-grandmother (Molly Keenan) dreamed of Ireland, he dreamed of right here."

    Today was a "kindness of strangers" day. Every experience we have had to date has been met with hospitality and selfless kindness.

    May we always remember to pay it forward.    Baca lagi

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    CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 4

    21 Jun 2022, Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After a restful night, we packed for the next leg of our trip and we said good-bye to our wonderful hosts Markie and Eamon.

    We decided to get breakfast in the nearby town of Carlow, and we found a really great espresso spot. It wasn't just that the lattes and breakfast food was delicious, we loved the positive community building environment. On the wall was an aspirational message which in part expressed:
    "...we want to help to build a positive space where people can come together, be convivial, and bring our town back to its happy place..."

    There was a slate with post-it notes where you could purchase drinks for others and they could use the post-it note as a voucher for a drink. We opted to do that when we paid our bill. We really appreciated what this small business in the midst of a little town was trying to do to build community.

    At breakfast we talked about our route possibilities to our final destination of Kinsale, a small fishing village south of Cork. We opted for the longer route with a stop at Hook Head Lighthouse in County Wexford.

    We enjoyed walking around Hook Lighthouse. It's amazing that this structure is 850 years old. It reminded us of our times on the Maine coast.

    When we departed, we noticed the ruins of a church several hundred kilometers down the road. After reading the inscription, we learned that Saint Dubhan, came to Hook Point from Wales in 452 A.D and established a monastery on this site. Saint Dubhan is believed to have lit the first warning beacon for ships on the point shortly after his arrival. This beacon had been maintained by the monks for 700 years until the current lighthouse was built. The English word for Dubhan is hook.

    As we explored the ruins and found gravesites, some hundreds of years old and others relatively new, I reflected on the theme that this was a site where someone looked out for others. His mission and those who followed him was to keep others seafaring travelers safe, and his legacy remains.

    We left this area and headed west past the city of Waterford where Waterford Crystal is made. We enjoyed the three-hour drive and we arrived in Kinsale late afternoon.

    Kinsale reminded us both of Boothbay Harbor, Maine. It's a colorful, bustling fishing village of about 4,000 people. We've rented a flat above an art gallery. It's cheerful and open, and close to several pubs and restaurants.

    After a short nap, we took a walk along the marina and then looked for a place to get dinner. We settled on a pub that was filling up quickly. Jim had fish and chips, and I opted for beef stew with Guinness. I decided that my stew seemed to be missing something: flavor. I told Jim that his stew was significantly better. What was missing in the food was made up in the drink as we enjoyed beers, and I had an Irish coffee.

    We decided to wait to hear the performers, and I'm glad that we did. Two older Irish men played guitar and and English and American songs with several opportunities for audience sing-a-longs.
    We made room for a couple who were standing near our table. They were very grateful that we made room for them. As it turns out they were educators from California. We told them that we were from Portland. They laughed because they assumed that we were locals because of our white beards.

    We had a fun evening talking with them, making song requests and listening to the banter of the performers. It was fun to share the table with them.

    It was totally on my romanticized bucket list to sit in a pub and sing Irish songs. I was envious of the performers, and I thought back to a time when I organized a Pete Seeger tribute concert in Maine. I loved the opportunity to be a song leader and to gather community to create something together. It makes me want to try that again. Who knows, maybe there will be space on this trip.

    As I reflect on the experience of the day, my take away is summarized by another piece on that coffee house wall in Carlow:

    "One of the basic cravings of humanity is to connect with each other. " Yes.    Baca lagi

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    CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 5

    22 Jun 2022, Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had a very decent night's sleep in our apartment, but we did wake up to what I was assuming was trash collection day given the loud sounds of grinding metal and broken glass.

    We later discovered that this was the delivery of many kegs of beer to the neighborhood. We really are staying in "Pub Central". When I was researching the top 10 pubs in Kinsale, most on the list are meters away from our flat.

    Jim C graciously ran to the store and picked up some groceries and cappuccinos for breakfast in our space. I'm reminded that the thing I will cherish most upon our return are meals at home. As nice as it has been to have some incredible meals out, the thought of preparing are own meals again feels like a different sort of luxury.

    We decided to go to the Blarney Castle today which is located just outside of the city of Cork in the town of Blarney. The visit was to see the famous Blarney stone where purported if you kiss the stone, you are given the gift of eloquence and flattery.

    Growing up with all the Irish relatives on my mother's side of the family, I would always think of the term blarney as being a "bullshitter" or someone who jabbers unending nonsense. In a more positive light, I see the gift of blarney in someone who can strike up a conversation with anyone.

    Dating back to my elementary school days, my report cards were often riddled with derogatory teachers' comments like "socializes too often with others" or "spends too much time talking with others". Upon reflection, it's interesting to see that behaviors that were seen as deficits in my youth, served me well as an adult. Perhaps the refinement over time was learning to listen more than just talk, but the ability to strike up a conversation with strangers has been poweful for my career, and it helped me meet my husband. 💚 Ironically, I attribute my "gift of gab" to my French-Canadian father.

    Ok, enough of my blarney birdwalk...

    We arrived at the grounds of the castle. The grounds are absolutely spectacular. I should note that I knew that in order to kiss the Blarney Stone, that one has to maneuver in a prone position with your head upside down to kiss the specific stone. I was missing one very important detail: The stone is positioned 85 feet above the ground with a gap near the parapet where you can see below to the ground. I watched with horror from the ground as we approached the castle walls, and we could see people being "assisted" to kiss the stone. The line marker that announced that we had a 60-minute wait to arrive at the stone, and I felt the same nervous anticipation that I've experienced in lengthy amusement park rides with dizzying heights as a component of the experience.

    The procession to the castle was lined with many informational placards. I learned that the castle was owned by the MacCarthy family who loved to entertain. I recognized, with a sense of pride, the coat of arms from my own family; my maternal grandmother was a McCarthy and they have roots in Cork County.

    As we made our way through the castle ruins, we could see various placards naming the rooms and activities in the castle. We then began the very narrow, claustrophobic climb up the "Tower of Terror". I was determined to go up despite a marked fear of heights and a pretty strong dislike of cramped spaces. We navigated the hundred steps to the top.

    I have always loved the view and despised the process to achieve it. This was no exception. As we approached the stone, I confirmed that there was no way that I was dangling my head upside down with the ground visible below despite iron bars making it impossible to fall through. The last few informational panels described numerous legends surrounding the stone including business dealings, grateful witches and Faerie magic. I couldn't locate the Satan legend, but I'm sure it was there somewhere.

    You might think this is irrational, but I'm the guy who pauses stepping over the minute gap between the floor and an elevator convinced that my ample frame will somehow manage to fall through the crack. (Note: Before the safeguards were installed, the kiss was performed with real risk to life and limb, as participants were grasped by the ankles and dangled bodily from the height.)

    I was afforded the opportunity to witness the vicarious thrill (terror) of my husband being pulled to the vicinity of the stone for a photo op. His first words to me were "Yeah, you would have hated that."

    We made it back down the set of stairs to the ground and we walked to the next seemingly safer exhibit of the "Poisonous Plants Garden". Cannabis was one of the plants displayed. As the saying goes, "you pick your poison". I could have used a visit to the garden prior to the heart palpitation adventure.

    I loved our walk through the garden. The flowers and forest grounds were really beautiful and peaceful. Much of the time, we felt like we had the park to ourselves.

    We left the park, and stopped Cork for a beer. While I'm not a big beer fan, I have enjoyed the Irish Red ales.

    We returned to the apartment for a nap and we enjoyed a leisurely dinner at "The Black Pig" a local wine bar. Our server was delightful, and we hit it off after we complimented her on her skillful dispatch of obnoxiously entitled neighboring guests who were furious that they couldnt seat nine guests at a table barely designed for six. They left in a huff, and it made our dinner that much more enjoyable. I really do feel for staff in the hospitality business. I know most establishments are very understaffed, and we appreciate their hard work. Despite the absence of tipping culture in Europe, we've tried to show our appreciation.

    Signing off with gratitude for another wonderful day. ☘️ 💞    Baca lagi

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    11

    CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 6

    23 Jun 2022, Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We decided to take a drive along a small fraction of the 2500 km Wild Atlantic Way today. This is a tourism trail along the southern, western and northern coasts of Ireland. Kinsale is near the southern terminal point so we began there this morning. We made no commitment how far we were going to travel today. We have learned that travel on many of Ireland's winding, narrow rural roads force you to slow down. It's a good opportunity to enjoy the vistas.

    The first destination was to travel to Old Head, a lighthouse point in Cork County. We didn't realize that we weren't able to actually make it to the lighthouse as the land is now privately owned by a golf course. We did stop just outside the golf course entrance at a memory point for the Lusitania, an Irish passenger ship that was sunk by a German torpedo during WWI about 10 miles off the coast of our observation point.

    Ireland's tourism industry has detailed many points of interest along the way. We knew that we'd have several other opportunities so we picked a few tentative destination points.

    Along the way we stopped for a game of miniature golf that was located in an adventure park. It was hard to picture youth navigating the ropes course without injury as it looked rather daunting; however, that part wasn't open.

    We stopped in a roadside fish and chips stand in the village of Rosscarbery. The portions were massive and the fish was very fresh and delicious.

    We then made our way next to Baltimore Beacon a very unusual shaped structure dating from 1850 to alert sailors about the rocky shore. It's known locally as “Lot’s Wife”, a Biblical story reference about a woman getting turned into a pillar of salt.

    Before we arrived we took time to sit by a peaceful cove as we listened to the water slap against a small moored sailboat.

    On site at the Beacon, we noted that the nearby cliffs were really dramatic without any protective barrier beyond a line of barbed wire. We loved the view to sea although I was a bit nervous to get too close to the edge.

    We then made our way back to our flat, having been on the road for several hours. We both noted how unusual it is to see verdant pastures and hills along the coast. If you look in one direction, you'd think you were in farmland in Pennsylvania and across the road the rugged Maine coast. It's an interesting collage of geographical features.

    After we returned, we took naps, and when we woke up we decided to just stay in for our first "Netflix and Chill" night since we first departed for Europe. We joked that we were preparing for life back home in the States, but I think it was also a bit of recognition that we're a bit homesick for those times despite the really wonderful trip abroad.

    I think that we've done a great job deciding what we want and slowing down to just take the experience in when we need to do that. I'm grateful that we've been able to experience this together.

    Sweet dreams from Kinsale.    Baca lagi

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  • Jim FotterPengembaraTwo Jims' European Adventure

    CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 7

    24 Jun 2022, Ireland ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    The skies opened up a bit today, and Ireland showed us the cool and rainy weather that tends to match its reputation.

    We did some window shopping in the neighborhood, and when it rained harder, we saw that as a good excuse to consume crepes and cappuccinos.

    We took advantage of a reprieve in the storm, and we enjoyed a coastal walk along Kinsale's Scilly Trail. The flowers, pastel colored homes and water served as a necessary, but too brief a distraction from the SCOTUS news back home.

    I feel for every woman back home who has now taken the brunt of a decision made by an illegitimate court. While it would be easy to also feel sorry for myself about "previews of coming attractions", I know that we will soon return home to do our part to make the U.S. a safe place to be. But for today, I realize that the pleasure of a holiday stroll along Ireland's beautiful coast or a beer at a local pub is diminished by the palpable anger that I sense "across the pond" in a country that feels very lost.

    Eurooean acquaintances who we have met on our journey keep asking "What's happened to America?" They don't understand guns, election corruption, a cultish following of a deranged former President and the erosion of a woman's reproductive freedom.

    I don't have a good answer other than to say that it's very broken, and we will need to regroup and fight again."

    A print on a restaurant wall caught my eye this evening. It was filled with sheep in the streets. Sheep don't change anything. The power of angry people working together do. They have always prevailed. We will too.

    Despite the storms here, we had a beautiful day- a lovely walk, a drink among Irish folks, a spectacular dinner and time with each other.

    We will weather the storms back home as well, and come November, we will do everything we can to make it a brighter day for all.    Baca lagi

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  • Jim FotterPengembaraTwo Jims' European Adventure

    CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 8

    25 Jun 2022, Ireland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    This was a rainy travel day as we made our way up to Limerick by way of Kenmare and Killarney.
    I have to admit that when I hear the town name Killarney it immediately triggers an earworm of Bing Crosby crooning "Christmas in Killarney".
    Perhaps that's fitting as Bing Crosby was absolutely my maternal grandmother's favorite singer.

    Today felt like it could be Christmas time as it was cold and blustery for most of our travels. We enjoyed the change in terrain as the area became more mountainous with constant of green peppered with limestone rocks and lakes. Our drive was along the eastern section of the famous Ring of Kerry which is considered to be one of the most spectacular loops in Ireland.

    We pulled off the road periodically to take photos although the 14°C chilly temps and rain caused us to retreat rather quickly to our car.

    We stopped for a light lunch in Kenmare and we enjoyed a brief walk there.

    We traveled in part of Killarney National Park, but we think we mostly remained on the perimeter. We enjoyed an easy walk up to Torc Falls which reminded us of waterfall walks in Maine and the Pacific NW. Throughout our trip, we have played the game "What state does it feel like we're in now?" Today's answer: The Front Range outside of Fort Collins, Colorado.

    We didn't stop in Killarney. It did seem to be packed with tourists, and we were happy to miss the fray.

    About an hour outside of Limerick, we noticed the land flattened out again.

    We arrived around 4 pm in our Limerick hotel. We have a view of the River Shannon out of our window, and we noticed athletes training for the swimming portion of triathlon training. We haven't explored much of the city yet. This is the land of my maternal grandfather's family, and I'm looking forward to exploring the area.

    We concluded the evening with pizza and beer at a local pub while watching Gaelic football a hybrid of soccer and rugby. It was interesting trying to make sense of the play and scoring.

    Today marks three weeks left until we return home. We're excited to absorb more of Ireland, but we're also feeling the "tug" of home calling to us. It sounds like Portland is finally getting long overdue sun and hot temperatures.

    Sweet dreams from Limerick.    Baca lagi

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  • Jim FotterPengembaraTwo Jims' European Adventure

    CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 9

    26 Jun 2022, Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Seven years ago today the U.S. Supreme Court ruled in favor of same-sex marriage. While Jim C and I had already been granted that right by a vote of the people on Washington state nearly three years earlier, it was a momentous day for those who lived in the "have-not" states as well as other federal rights granted to us by the narrow ruling. It's not lost on us that too many women, particularly those without resources will likely suffer in the "have not" states.

    My reflection of Limerick today as we walked around the city is that there were several examples of the labor movement to help give rights and voice to the people, and in this case to the fight for Ireland's independence. It was a good reminder that it's not enough to just be angry, but to channel that anger into action for the common good, and to hold our governmental institutions accountable when they fail to remember that it's their purpose as well. Seeking support in polite ways does not persuade oppressors.

    I wanted to visit Limerick because it is the city where my maternal grandfather's family came from. His parents were married here and his oldest brother was born here before the family moved to rural New York. I'm named for him. I have not approached my genealogical research about his family with the same zeal in finding my grandmother's roots because my grandfather was a horrible human being. I've been curious about his lineage, and I have many questions about the family who created such an abysmal soul. I suspect those questions will remain unanswered, and I choose to emulate the light of his wife, my grandmother instead.

    Limerick is a gritty city. You can sense its industrial past and its effort to recast itself. One can see more evidence of poverty and struggle, and I admire the city for its past and aspirations for a better future.

    We began our day with a massive Irish breakfast while we watched the weather change about every five minutes from drizzle to sun to downpours. Next to us a young family was introducing their toddler son to the joys of Nutella, and while we watched him wear more that he managed to eat, we smiled as we recalled recent photos of Olive's wearing much of a recent Nutella treat as well.

    We walked by the now closed Frank McCourt museum, the author of "Angela's Ashes" a very tough autobiography of a difficult life. The museum was in sn old schoolhouse created by bequeathed funds from a wealthy man who wanted to help the poor. It's a poweful story of a wealthy person helping those less fortunate.

    We decided to take advantage of a break in the weather and we wandered to People's Park. The park was opened in the late 1800's by a wealthy businessman who wanted to create a planned space for the populace. I was moved by a monument dedicated to parents who had lost young children. I loved the efforts of artists to create beautiful wood sculptures of trees uprooted by a severe windstorm. And I loved children's chalk drawings by of a rainbow heart on a park bench, a love offering by the innocents.

    Like many Americans, I'm angry about living in a country that has lost its soul. Limerick's lesson for me today reminded me of the power of love, the power of the labor movement and organizing, the power of creation, and the beauty of youth. I'm grateful for the reminder.    Baca lagi

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  • Jim FotterPengembaraTwo Jims' European Adventure

    CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 10

    27 Jun 2022, Ireland ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    We woke up to a brief display of clear skies before the weather began to change rather quickly to what felt like a combination of Pacific NW winter rains and Wyoming's strong winds. I've dubbed the weather Hurricane Patrick.

    One of the things we've noticed about the locals is that they tend to be rather apologetic about the weather. They seem perplexed that it should be better this time of year. We reassure them that we are happy to be here and a holiday during inclement weather is better than a day in the office on a sunny day.

    We departed Limerick for an overnight side trip to the Dingle peninsula today, part of the Wild Atlantic Way. We took the Slea Head Drive (Slí Cheann Sléibhe) enroute to the town of Dingle. Along the way we saw film locations for free 1970 movie Ryan's Daughter and one of the Star Wars movies. The old ruins of a tower and the dramatic cliffs and countryside were spectacular.

    At one stop, I took photos of sheep grazing in a pasture. I really did think that one of the larger sheep was going to charge through the fence at me, and I was a bit embarrassed at being intimidated by it. I think I was haunted by reliving childhood memories of benign petting zoos only to get head butts from goats.

    We stopped for a lunch in Dingle before proceeding to some additional coastal sites.
    We stopped by the Gallarus Oratory which is thought to be a 10th or 11th century stone church. The shape of the arch is comparable to an overturned boat, and the arch doesn't have a keystone like other architectural arch structures.

    After departing the Oratory we made our way across the Conor pass. The vistas were quite spectacular despite the gloomy weather. The roads were very narrow at certain points, and they were reliant on the courtesy of travelers to use the turnouts in places where only one lane can pass at a time. Stray sheep along the roadsides added extra navigation challenges. We imagined what it must be like to be driving a tour bus through the area as we were followed by one in other parts of the drive.

    After we made it through the Pass, we arrived at our B&B about 10 minutes further down the road. We were greeted by Mary, the proprietor, who gave us dinner recommendations with a newly opened family restaurant down the road. I never thought I would be seeking the comfort of a wood stove at the end of June, but it was a welcome feature of this quaint restaurant. We struck up a conversation with other guests who are two college friends traveling from Kansas. One was a kindergarten teacher, and we enjoyed sharing travel tips.

    We arrived back at our B&B, and we are enjoying the white noise of the wind and sea beckoning us to sleep. Sweet dreams!    Baca lagi

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