• Laura's Adventures
  • Laura's Adventures

Camino Francés 2022

Una aventura de 41 días de Laura's Adventures Leer más
  • Home made dinner

    12 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The 3 of us went shopping at the only grocery store in town, and came back with ingredients for dinner and breakfast.
    JinJu helped me with vegetable chopping and I made a risotto. Jan made a fruit salad.
    It all turned up very good and very economical. Then JinJu gave me a compliment that made my day: said it was the best meal she has had in Spain!
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  • 3 weeks today

    13 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Jinjoo (I learnt that this is the correct spelling) and I woke up at 4.30 so we could leave early. Jan refused to wake up before 5, but joined us for breakfast at 5.10.
    When Jinjoo and I were ready he said: you go, I'll catch you later, but he never did. Either I am walking faster, or the faster walkers are slowing down 😄
    Jinjoo was walking 20k only, so we walked that distance together and then I kept going alone.
    Today is 3 weeks since I started the Camino and I have less than 300k to go. It's a funny feeling, because I want to make it to Santiago but I don't want the experience to end yet.
    My feet have been getting better. So much so, that this morning I forgot to put on the arnica cream. But I am not fully recovered and I did remember to put the cream on in the afternoon, after a 32k walk.
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  • Orbigo river

    13 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We passed through 3 nice villages built around the Orbigo river. The villages are small and close together, and very well developed, with nice cafes, modern houses, etc. I imagine it must be a holiday destination, not just a place for pilgrims.Leer más

  • La casa de los dioses

    13 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    The walk today was fairly flat until I left Jinjoo, and became more hilly after that.
    At one point there was an amazing 'gift' for pilgrims: this rest area with shade, seats, hammocks, beds, lots of fresh fruit and other good quality food and drinks, all there for pilgrims to accept as a gift. Incredible! People left donations on the main table.
    The guy that appears on the last photo, with bare feet and chest, runs the show. He was at the back of the place when I stopped and helped myself to some fruit and chocolate, and came forward to replenish some of the goodies while I was still there. He's quite a character! His name is David, from Barcelona. He said he walked the Camino for more than 3 months, barefoot and without money, and God took care of him. Now he's giving back. He's been doing this for years, living there without electricity and sleeping under the stars.
    There was a good number of people when I was there (about 10?), and he entered into an argument with one pilgrim who is a psychologist.
    David believes God is in everybody and a psychologist can't do anything useful, because he 'can't help God'. And looks down on people who work for money. The psychologist kept stating a different point of view but David confronted every one of his words, with eloquence, confidence and even arrogance. He was trying to make the point that people shouldn't charge for anything they do for love or passion and they should simply give that away and let God take care of the rest.
    Between you and I, I think David is nuts, but in a way that does more good than harm and he shouldn't be treated or 'cured'!
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  • Albergue Siervas de Maria

    13 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    I'm staying at the public albergue in Astorga. I am in a small room with 3 other people, all Spanish speakers.
    The albergue is next to a church and a few hundred meters away from the Cathedral - great location, and good facilities. It's the only albergue that has an iced water dispenser at the reception, something that I'm sure all summer pilgrims appreciate.
    For the first time on this trip, I got a top bunk. I can't complain, I had a ver good run till now 🤷🏻‍♀️
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  • Astorga

    13 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    No one told me this is a dangerous city. The chocolate stores are no joke! I can't go browsing because I get the urge of sampling everything and that's just not possible 😫
    The City isn't too big, and being Saturday afternoon, it was pretty quiet when I walked around. I'm sure it will get buzzing later.Leer más

  • A sunset, for a change

    13 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I had a light dinner and went scouting for a good place for chocolate con churros for tomorrow's breakfast.
    I bumped into Jan and his German friend briefly, it was good to have some 'me' time.
    There's a lovely garden next to the albergue, overlooking the city edge and the mountains in the distance.
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  • The day didn't start as planned

    14 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Last night I selected the cafe where I would have chocolate con churros this morning. It was called Bar Carrera and it was 1k away from the albergue, slightly off the Camino. I even went in last night and asked what time they open in the morning. The answer was 5am. I went there after 6 and it was closed 🙄. Most likely because today is Sunday 🤦🏻‍♀️.
    The only open cafes I saw on the way there were right next to the albergue, so I had to retrace my steps 🤷🏻‍♀️
    The chocolate was nowhere near as good as the one in León. They didn't have churros, so I ordered a croissant. But it wasn't fresh. I was disappointed but didn't get upset. I still remember my early Camino lesson of adjusting (eliminating?) expectations. It was a first world problem after all.
    Once I started walking I forgot all about it. The first few kms were flat, and then it got more interesting.
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  • The walk was great

    14 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I wasn't sure if I would finish at Rabanal del Camino (20k) or Foncebadon (26k) today.
    I walked alone and had time to think. There's a business idea that I had in the back of my mind for a long time, and I developed it a bit more. I also thought of something else I would do if I decided to take any real steps with the first idea. It's something I always discarded for being 'too hard', but compared with starting a business seems very easy. I will keep pondering the possibilities for now.
    Getting to Rabanal del Camino was easy, despite being uphill. I was in the sun but there was a cool wind that made all the difference.
    I stopped at Rabanal for lunch. I had a veggie burger and it was delicious!
    Jan called to say he and his German friend found an albergue and were staying there, in case I wanted to join them. But I was re-energised and ready to tackle the longer and steeper hill to Foncebadon (see mountains in the last photo), and that's what I did.
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  • Foncebadón, and decisions to make

    14 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I checked in at the Albergue del Convento. For dinner I ate an avocado and crackers I had with me.
    Yesterday I made a comment, that I was on track to complete the walk early, but didn't want it to end. There are a couple of things I can do about that:
    1. Switch to the Camino de Invierno, which is very scenic and a few days longer, and/or
    2. After Santiago, keep walking to Finisterre and/or Muxia.
    I am tempted to do the Invierno because I know the standard Camino Francés gets very busy in the last 100k. The problem with that is that I wouldn't want to be in the middle of a crowd, and it may get difficult to find accommodation without prior booking.
    The challenge of the Invierno is that, since it's not too frequented, there is less infrastructure and accommodation can also be difficult but for different reasons. I still have at least another day to make up my mind. I put some questions on the Forum to help me decide.
    Ideally, I would like to go to Finisterre too, and if I can maintain the current rhythm, both extensions are doable.
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  • Cold morning

    15 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    I heard before that Foncebadón is a cold place, so it didn't surprise me. I started the walk with a jacket on, for the first time. It was 10°C and my hands were freezing.
    I was walking alone and all of a sudden I saw Jinjoo! She walked 30k yesterday and started very early today, both big efforts.
    She was with a Korean friend and we walked together to Cruz de Ferro.
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  • Cruz de Ferro

    15 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    This is a milestone in the Camino, and one of the highlights of the day.
    There's a tradition, where people bring a stone from their hometown and visualise all their troubles as being transferred to the stone, and they leave it at the foot of the cross - leaving their troubles behind. I didn't do it, because I don't believe in those things and it wouldn't have been authentic. Plus, I don't have any troubles! 🤣
    Seriously, it's very common for people to ask why you're doing the Camino. Many are searching for answers, or a purpose in life, or to resolve or forget certain problems. I am very grateful that I don't have any problems and am very happy with my life.
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  • Mountain views and planning for tomorrow

    15 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Yesterday I had a big climb. Today it was up and down for some time, with fantastic views. Finally, there was a long and steep descent to Molinaseca, passing through a few small villages on the way.
    Last night I got some useful info from the Forum, regarding my questions about the idea of switching to the Camino de Invierno. One important point was accommodation. Albergues are very economical, but on the Invierno there aren't many. Staying at hostals or hotels can be a lot more expensive and I wanted to keep it simple, and cheap.
    I checked where the low cost albergues were located, and the route was doable if I organised my stops based on that. Today I was going to check with the first 2 or 3.
    For the first one, I had to call the municipality. The recorded message tells me to hold the line for a few minutes, then says all lines are busy and I should try later - and hangs up. I called a few times, always the same. I also sent an email, no answer.
    The guide I have says the municipality requires a phone reservation at least 2 days in advance. I only have one day, and they don't pick up! I tried a hostal, thinking 'ok, maybe I can have a more expensive room one night only, and then back to albergues', but they were full.
    As much as I was tempted to try the Invierno route, I can't go with this much uncertainty 🤷🏻‍♀️
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  • Fiesta

    15 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Molinaseca is very pretty, and today it's all geared up to celebrate the day of its Patron Saint. I also learnt from the hospitalero at Albergue Santamarina, where I'm staying, that today is a national holiday! 🤦🏻‍♀️ No wonder I couldn't speak with the municipality 🙄. They could have changed the phone message.Leer más

  • Decision point

    16 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This morning I reached the big fork, and given the difficulties getting accommodation on the Invierno, I stayed on the Francés.
    The main point of the Invierno is to avoid a big mountain, which gets covered with snow in winter. Although I heard that the Invierno was very scenic, I hear that the mountain has beautiful views too, and I didn't want to miss it. So, I am happy with the decision. I was going to have to book ahead in any case, so I will get used to that when needed.Leer más

  • Cool walk

    16 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was an easy 25k walk, with clouds and a cool wind, and it didn't get hot at all.
    During the walk I have been chatting with a few other pilgrims, from Germany and the US, all in English.
    Then I heard a local speaking Spanish and I almost asked: "your Spanish is very good, where are you from?" 🤣Leer más

  • A hippie albergue

    16 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    This is a big old house with a hippie vibe. It's full of little arty details and positive messages.
    I chose this place because it has very good reviews about its vegetarian food, for dinner and breakfast 😋
    The bunk beds have very high top beds, which is great for those sleeping at the bottom. Last night I was in a bottom bed with not enough room to sit up, and today I have plenty of room to spare.
    So far I only slept on a top bed once, at Astorga. It wasn't as bad as I thought. It would have been different during my first week, when I was very disorganised and had to go looking for stuff every 5 minutes. Now I know exactly what I need, and where it is.
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  • Awesome food

    16 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Dinner at El Serbal y la Luna was great. First, peppers with garlic; second, the best couscous I ever had, with vegetables; and icecream for dessert.
    Breakfast was equally good. I was able to soak some oats overnight, which is the closest I could get to the bircher muesli I normally have at home.Leer más

  • Musical evening

    16 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Jan and Klaus (the friend he's now joined at the hip with) turned up at the albergue I was at, late in the afternoon.
    There was a guitar at the albergue, and Jan likes to play.
    After dinner, we all stayed at or near the table, he played and some of us sang. Others just watched. We were about 12 to 15 people, all of whom I was meeting for the first time (apart from Jan and Klaus). Everyone had a good time. The group included people from Germany, Spain, Argentina, France, Ireland and Ukraine.
    Ulises, one of the Argentinians, recorded some video and will send me a copy when he can connect to wifi. I will add it here when I get it, if it's any good.
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