• Phil Ayliff
  • Cindy Ayliff
Current
  • Phil Ayliff
  • Cindy Ayliff

2026 Japan exploration

Our long anticipated open ended trip to Japan - we start in wild Hokkaido for about three weeks before working our way south. Our focus will be hiking, culture and seeing the beautiful gardens. The trip could take as long as three months. Read more
  • Day 15

    September 17 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We started the day with an interesting 7 mile hike up a ski slop and then up to a panoramic viewpoint passing through bokke (mud volcanoes). On the hike we met 3 Vietnamese students who were here on internships and an Aussie from outside Sydney (Blue Mountains).

    After the hike we returned to the village where we found a bunch of shops run by the indigenous Ainu and Cindy was in her element! We even had lunch in a cafe in their neighborhood and we actually enjoyed the meal!

    After lunch and shopping, we hit the road and headed south to Cape Erimo and found a campsite. See the photos of the sunset on the water. As soon as we started cooking dinner, it started pouring! At least we are not in a tent. (See how they package eggs - each with its own sticker)

    Overall, it was a very good day. Only 2 more days left in the van!
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  • Day 14

    September 16 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    What did we do today?

    We did a wetland walk and saw several different types of mushrooms!

    We learned about the Red Crowned Crane when we visited the Akan International Crane Center. In 1953 they were almost extinct (down to about 30) but have recovered to about 1,900 now. The Center feeds it in winter. These are the famous dancing cranes you might see in Japanese art - see example in photos.

    We are now at Lake Akan. We had hoped to climb Mt. Meakan tomorrow but the volcano is too active at the moment so it is closed. Here on the lake there is also a mud volcano that we visited that is a very small miniature of Yellowstone.

    Lastly, Cindy found this for us to attend

    Akanko Ainu Theater Ikor.
    Traditional Ainu Dance. (The Ainu ore the indigenous peoples of this area)

    Interesting things learned today;

    There is a green algae grow together to form marimo. The rolling of the waves makes them into round balls that are hollow. They can be the size of a soccer ball. They are actually designated a Japanese National Monument.

    If you want more info on the cranes:
    The red crowned crane compared the Sandhill crane you see in Florida: (source ChatGPT)

    The red-crowned crane (Grus japonensis)—the one we saw in Hokkaido—is about 5 ft (150 cm) tall, with a wingspan around 7½–8 ft (220–250 cm). Adults are strikingly white, with a black neck and secondary wing feathers and that famous bare patch of red skin on top of the head. They’re among the heaviest flying birds, commonly around 15–22 lb (7–10 kg).

    The Florida sandhill crane (Antigone canadensis pratensis) is a nonmigratory subspecies of sandhill crane. It’s smaller, generally around 3½–4 ft (105–120 cm) tall, with a wingspan around 6–7 ft (180–210 cm). Instead of crisp black and white, it’s mostly gray, often with rusty-brown staining on its feathers. It also has red bare skin on its head, but the red extends across the forehead/crown rather than appearing as that neat red “cap” surrounded by black and white.

    There is also a big behavioral difference you’d notice. Florida sandhills have adapted remarkably well to people—you’ll see pairs strolling through subdivisions, golf courses and roadsides as though they own the place. 😂 Red-crowned cranes generally remain much more associated with wetlands, marshes, river systems and agricultural landscapes, although the resident Hokkaido population does use farmland and some individuals become accustomed to people around feeding areas.

    And their voices are related but impressive in different ways. Both have the crane family’s extraordinarily long, coiled trachea, producing those tremendous bugling calls. A red-crowned pair performing its synchronized unison call and courtship dance is one of the great wildlife spectacles of Hokkaido.
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  • Notsuke Peninsula

    September 15 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    See photo - It was taken by Japanese photographer Kohei Nagira and shows an Ezo sika stag carrying the decomposing head of another stag tangled in its antlers. The photograph, titled “Never-ending struggle,” was selected for the 2026 Wildlife Photographer of the Year Nuveen People’s Choice Award.

    The deer became quite a local wildlife celebrity in winter 2021. Observers watched it struggling with the considerable weight and restricted vision caused by the other head.

    The presumed story is gruesome but fascinating. During the autumn rut, two males apparently fought and their antlers became locked. One eventually died. As decomposition progressed, the surviving stag ended up carrying away the other stag’s head still attached by the antlers. Nobody actually witnessed the original fight, so that sequence can’t be known with absolute certainty.

    Nobody removed the head. They left him as a wild animal and allowed nature to take its course.

    And remarkably, he survived. Photographer Kohei Nagira observed him on the Notsuke Peninsula from late November 2020 through April 2021. Despite living alone and carrying that awful extra load, he continued eating grass and branches and made it through the Hokkaido winter.

    It was genuinely dangerous, though. Other observers noted that he had difficulty raising his head, moved less than normal, and had impaired visibility.

    The clever bit of biology that ultimately saved him: male sika deer shed their antlers each spring. So there was no need for somebody eventually to wrestle him down and cut the other head loose—the whole antler assembly would naturally drop off. The fact that Nagira was still observing him in April strongly suggests he reached that escape point.

    And it was actually worse at first than the photograph suggests. According to a local fisherman, after the other stag died, the survivor dragged the entire body around for several days until eventually the head separated from the carcass.

    So yes: he won the fight, nearly lost the war, and spent the winter wearing his opponent.

    Possibly the worst trophy presentation in sporting history.

    (Info from ChatGPT)

    Also added other photos from the day including a $15 mango from “Costco” that we did not buy. The fruit here has been incredible!
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  • Day 13

    September 15 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We woke to a windy morning and an email telling us our whale watching trip had been canceled because of the wind. As a result it was a quiet day but we did visit Narawara. It is an interesting peninsula where tons of deer gather.. Cindy will send an interesting story on this area. Right off the coast are islands that are in dispute with Russia.

    We needed to resupply so we stopped at TOBU South Hills 3-10 in Nakashibets
    I still it is a mini Costco, you can even buy a Costco bag there. Unfortunately no rotisserie chickens but could find real cheese and chocolate.

    We found another incredible campsite. It even had a shower which cost 65c for 10 minutes and it cost $10 for the night in the campground. The campground is in another national park in the wetlands. We will start exploring it tomorrow.

    A couple of days ago we had to find a lightweight bear bell . We sing “Picnic time for Teddy Bears” 🧸 and hope it discourages getting within miles … so far so good. 🎶
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  • Day 12

    September 14 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Shiretoko NP - lakes, waterfalls and onsen and then the best campground thus far! The onsen was quite an experience- small public with all the locals and the water was extremely hot - we did not last long.

    There are 7 NPs on Hokkaido - the original plan was to visit 3 of these parks but now we have figured a way to include 6 of the 7.
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  • Day 11

    September 13 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Is was an interesting day that started with Mount Io which is a volcanic mountain emitting sulphuric smoke and then the hike around Lake Mashu which is a crater lake. All that activity was in Alkan-Mashu NP.

    Tonight we are camped outside Shiretoko NP - (UNESCO Site: Recognized for its rare and connected ecosystems between the ocean, rivers, and forests.Wildlife: Home to large populations of brown bears, foxes, deer, and marine animals like killer whales.Drift Ice: Features massive floating ice sheets along the coast in the winter.). Luckily it is not winter! :)
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  • Day 10

    September 12 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We started the day with a couple of spectacular waterfalls in Daisetsuzan NP near Kurodake Ropeway. At the first falls we met Amy who lives in NZ but was from Pittsburgh. Lots of interesting conversation!

    We also keep running into town cuckoo clocks on our travels. Last month it was in Ohio and now in Karakuri in the park in town.

    We then made our way to another NP, Akan-Mashu where we hiked the Wakoto Peninsula. It is a popular place for water sports. Our campsite is on Lake Kussharo.

    Overall the day was a 3 out of 5 and we need more exercise!
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  • Day 9

    September 11 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today has been a slow day except for a couple of exciting moments. The first Hagoromo Falls which it the highest in Hokkaido.

    The other one was meeting Gump Suzuki. We were in the parking lot packing away our groceries when Gump and his rickshaw showed up and started talking to us. Google him and you will be in for a surprise!Read more

  • Day 8

    September 10 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Last night was really cold in the van. We camped at Ashidake camping close to the starting point of today’s hike. Ashidake is the highest mountain on Hokkaido at 7,576 feet. We take a cable car up part of the way.

    Everything went according to plan and the hike was spectacular! It was cold and windy up there and the scenery kept changing as the clouds moved around. We ended up hiking 8 miles with about 3,000 ft of elevation gain. We decided to camp at the same spot again and to do a onsen for recovery.
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  • Day 7

    September 9 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    One of the biggest PIA here is to get rid of your trash. There are no trash cans anywhere and it is a game of hide and seek. The company we rented the van from actually provided a Google Maps of the different places you can drop your trash off. The other interesting piece is that they over package everything so there is a lot of excess trash.

    The day started rainy so we decided to go to the local zoo instead.
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  • Biei

    September 9 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Our free campsite is a meeting ground not only for retired Japanese campers but also for colorful Japanese silk moths at the end of their life cycle. They are gorgeous moths for 7-12 days, but do not have mouths that allow them to eat. Losing energy quickly, they find a mate (perhaps even on a lamppost) have a screw and then try to make it to an oak tree to lay their eggs. Just when these creatures find themselves to be beautiful, fly and truly enjoy living, it’s time is over, but what a way to go….Read more

  • Day 6

    September 8 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    It was one of our better days. They don’t have daylight savings time so sunrise is at 5am and it gets dark at 6pm. It was nice to be camping again.

    We visited the Blue Pond, the waterfall and then hiked to the top of Mt Kamifurano in the mist and then hit the onsen (our first one) to recover before return to the same campground we started at. Check out the photos!

    Cindy is a little behind but will be posting soon.
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  • Day 6 photos

    September 8 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Northern Hokkaido is 27 miles from Sakhalin island. Russia’s mainland, is several hundred km away, Russian Far East (Siberia).

    Siberian Birch and Arctic Starflower photos. It’s exciting to see new vegetation species!

    Cyclists from Australia
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  • Day 5

    September 7 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today was moving day. We left Sapporo and picked up the campervan in Chitose. After resupplying at Aeon grocery store we drove a couple hours to south of Biei to our campsite.

    Shopping was quite an experience. It is tough going into the store and not knowing what 99.5% of the products are. I have to take a photo of the aisle and then ask Chat GPT which one I want. It is amazing how well it works. Even getting out of the parking lot had its challenges - a nice lady help figure out what we needed to do. When you drive into the parking lot, they take a photo of your license plate and then when you leave, you enter the last 4 digits of the plate into the machine and it figures out how much you owe - interesting system!Read more

  • Day 4

    September 6 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We are starting to get the hang of the public transportation at last. We still get lost, get off at the wrong stop or can’t even find the train but it is happening less frequently. AI has saved us a number of times when we are not sure which way to go.

    We are still struggling with the food but at least we can cook for ourselves for now.

    Today we visited the Hokkaido Museum and the Historic Village close by. They were both well worth the effort. After this visit, we are ready to start exploring the island tomorrow when we pick up the campervan! Can’t wait to see the bears!
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  • 5 star day!!!

    September 5 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I admit, I was not thrilled to be going to what sounded like a historic town filled with tourist shops and then staying till night to see fireworks.
    Otaru is not that old, changing from an Ainu fishing village to a trading port in the late 1800’s, with Western influences.

    What l loved: 1. watching the people on a Saturday enjoying themselves. Lots of smiles.

    2. Art museums. If you ask, will send more photos/descriptions. Woodblock prints, swords, Tiffany windows (sadly, a National Treasure sold from St John’s church NJ) And surprise… the erotic scrolls painted on commission for the newlyweds! (If you think your in-laws crossed a line…well, maybe not!) The artist did not sign his name to this explicit piece of work. I could have spent a bit more time there trying to figure out where all the arms and legs were located. No photos allowed.. sorry

    3. The 8 layers of different flavors of soft serve followed by a tremendous sugar high that was super enjoyable while listening to 1,000s of tinkling music boxes in this enormous shop. My body tingled as if I had arrived in heaven. Then followed by the antique music box store with the seated cubbyhole where the vibrations of the tinkling sounds reverberated throughout my entire body.

    4. At the dried out scallop shop including dried seaweed, Phil was handed (like it or not) a hot broth which he immediately gave to me. What was it??? I sat and drank it anyways feeling like Alice in Wonderland, finally gulping the last green seaweed at the bottom. This was a good for me, I just know it… you know healthy.

    5. The glass work, like being in Venice with Murano glass everywhere. Exquisite.

    5. The young people in their very cute outfits, some with outlandish hair color and designs complete with bunny or kitty ears.

    6. That we found our way home and were asleep before 9.
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  • Day 3 Otaru

    September 5 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I did an early morning hike along the river in Sapporo and then we took the train to Otaru for afternoon. Lots of people were out and about on a beautiful Saturday. We visited a couple of museums and walked in an area that reminded us of olde town Alexandria. The area is known for its glass works. I will let Cindy get into those details and photos.

    We are still struggling to adjust to the time change
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  • Sapporo

    September 4 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    When you flush the toilet water comes out of the spigot and into the small wash bowl above so you can wash your hands.

    We checked out a whole store of gadgets to try capture stuffed animals (including wombats, beavers) and tiny creatures that many young women attach to their purses. Nearby stores for adult gambling.

    The brown bear is equivalent to our grizzly (hope to see but not close up and scary) the black bear with a white crescent similar to our Shenandoah variety, sweet and cute.
    Walked close to 8 miles.
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  • Sapporo

    September 3 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We made it to a rainy Sapporo late last night. This morning we hit the grocery store and bakery. ChatGPT is amazing. We take a picture of the products and it tells us what they are and which ones to buy.

    We are still trying to figure out how everything works, the one thing we did not do at home was learn enough Japanese words and phrases. Everyone is super friendly and helpful BUT we don’t want to violate some of their strict rules like queuing while waiting for the train.

    I will let Cindy provide her own comments and any photos.
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  • Departure day

    September 2 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    After a rather hectic morning, we made it to Dulles (thanks Robin). I think we have beaten the planning and preparation to death and now it is time to start the exploration. We arrive in Japan tomorrow evening!

    Life requires a bit of intensity at times. I feel ready to rock and roll! (Cindy)

    This is the our first post on this system, so bear with me if I screw it up.
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    Trip start
    September 2, 2026