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Camino de Santiago

september - november 2022
  • Levana Fletcher
Et 54-dags eventyr af Levana Læs mere
  • Levana Fletcher

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  • Portugal Portugal
  • Spanien Spanien
  • Frankrig Frankrig
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  • 28,8krejste kilometer
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  • 62fodaftryk
  • 54dage
  • 671fotos
  • 146kan lide
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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Quite the posh breakfast buffet
    The fortress of impenetrable darknessLooking up through the Portal de FranciaPuente de la MagdalenaRiverside parkSanta Maria la Real CathedralCathedral interiorSide chapelBlack Madonna1String quartet rehearsingElevensesThe Ways to goSan Saturnino Church1Church interiorElectric candles, less mess!Organist rehearsingEncouraging words at the Ultreia center

    Pamplona rest day

    17. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    After 10 hours of sleep and an ample breakfast, I'm feeling human again. I went back to the entrance into the city over the Puente de la Magdalena and through the Portal de Francia, which I was too dead tired to even see yesterday. It was by sheer power of will that I made it up that last climb through the fortress into the old city, just a blind slog. It was only 56° this morning, first taste of cooler fall temps to come. I wandered around the city, ducking into churches and happening upon some amazing music. Also visited the Ultreia Interpretive Center to learn about how the history of this region is tied to the Camino de Santiago. Also scouted out the route out of town and packed the daypack. It will be a relief to walk lighter tomorrow!Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago

    Random musings

    17. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    "The Road goes ever on and on,
    Down from the door where it began.
    Now far ahead the road has gone,
    And I must follow, if I can
    Pursuing it with eager feet,
    Until it joins some larger way
    Where many paths and errands meet.
    And whither then? I cannot say"

    Bilbo Baggins, J.R.R. Tolkien

    I first read that when I was 13, the most epic of pilgrimage tales, and it took root in my heart and imagination. The frequent conversation starter on the trail is "why are you walking the Camino?" I haven't had a ready answer for that. It's complicated. To be determined. It's said that the first part of the Camino is physical, the second is mental, and the third is spiritual. So far, it has been a walking meditation of breath, prayer, bodily sensations, taking in the surroundings and relating to others in a new way. It's like you're suddenly in an instant community of people all doing the same thing, open to sharing and supporting each other. It immediately gets deep and real when you talk with people. At the pilgrim supper the first night at Orisson, when we went around and introduced ourselves, said where we're from and why we're walking the Camino, I said "for discovery". That'll have to do. And I've only just begun...    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Entering a different kind of country
    The road goes ever onCan barely see the wind turbines up on the ridge1Alto de Perdon1Where the way of the wind meets the way of the starsA strange little stone henge on the way downDozens of rock cairnsMore imaginary kilometers1Roadside shrine

    Stage 5: Pamplona to Obanos

    18. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After two nights of luuuxery (does no one get my Money Python references??) I walked out of Pamplona early-ish at 0800 in 50°, past the Citadel, University and public gardens in a bit of a daze because I had to focus on remembering/relearning how to walk. Felt like a jumble of disjointed parts that weren't entirely cooperating with each other, like my hip joints belong to somebody else. I seem to have developed this wide, rolling gait, the knees aren't sure what's up with that. I didn't take many pictures today because I was busy renegotiating the deal with my body about what we're up to. It took a fair amount of concentration just to propel myself forward.

    So this is the physical shakedown and restructuring, getting me fit for purpose. Got it. Curious what the new configuration will feel like. In the meantime, steady as she goes. I am the Tortoise. 🐢

    Made it up and over the Alto de Perdón and arrived in Obanos, about 13 miles, at the charming Casa Raichu. Laundry is being done, dinner at 7:00, life is good.    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Sunset from my room in Obanos last night
    Sunrise this morningChurch in ObanosMorning kittyWith St James the pilgrimSecond coffee in cute little-bit-of-everything cafe bar storeLeaving Puente la ReinaLooking back at Puente la ReinaLentil vegetable soup for lunch in CirauquiAt 2:00, in the heat of the day 🤪

    Stage 6: Obanos to Estella

    18. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    15 miles in 9.5 hours, from 53° to 84°. Having the lighter pack helped but I'm still as slow as molasses.
    News flash- all bodily departments seem to have a working relationship today (hips and knees are still hammering out the fine points of the contract but all in all, everyone is on speaking terms), yay 😊 go team! "this is how we do it 🎶!"Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    An outward and visible sign...
    2

    The Sacred and the Profane

    19. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The Way is always present and apparent if I just know where to look. And if I get lost it's ok to ask for directions, repent and return...
    We're all on the Way
    All ways converge into One

    I smell like a walking advertisement for the Spanish version of Tide. This from an avowed unscented laundry soap user at home. But I can't tell you what it means to have someone wash my clothes for me, that doesn't even happen at home! I'm willing to smell like laundry detergent rather than rancid sweat!Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Leaving Estella in the morning
    Irache monastery and wine fountain coming upFree wine fountain, too early in the morning for meAmazing metalsmith workshopLast good bar cafe rest stop villageTiny market in Villamayor de Monjardin with cold drinksRemains of castle, I'm not going up thereJust wheat fields after Villamayor de Monjardin1And some vineyardsLast shade and water for miles

    Stage 7: Estella to Los Arcos

    20. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    13.4 miles, 7 hours, 50°-84°. Before this all turns into a blur of exhaustion I've got to record some of it. Every day seems like a year. I left Estella later than usual because I waited for the post office to open to get some postcard stamps and to mail a box of stuff from my pack ahead to Santiago. I've pared it down even more but am still sending the big backpack ahead for a couple more days and walking with a daypack because now the mid-back has gone on strike. Just when hips and knees had fully signed on. I think it's the daypack I've been using. So today (I'm writing this Wednesday) I went to a sporting goods store dedicated to the needs of those walking the Camino and got a Deuter German made daypack designed for women that seems to fit my body better. Here's hoping. I want to get to the point where I can just enjoy the walk without some screaming distraction of bodily discomfort.
    Hopefully I'll remember the walk to Los Arcos when I look at the pictures...all I remember now are the hallucinatory last few miles on gravel through open wheat fields in 84° with no shade. When I got into town I called a taxi to the truck stop hotel I had a reservation at a mile and a half out of town off the freeway. Met some lovely Norwegian folks in the dining room. Slept like a log.    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago

    Stage 8: Los Arcos to Viana

    21. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    18.4 kms/11.4 miles, 6.5 hrs, 49°-75°. Somehow my pace has picked up a bit, even though my mid-back below the shoulder blades is so sore. Pleasant temperatures today with a nice breeze. Played tag team with a delightful Irish couple all day. They've been walking the Camino in segments for several years, starting from Pamplona this time and ending in Logrono tomorrow. Didn't take many pictures today, was kind of in a zone. Arrived about 2:30 to a private hostal, the host was away but had left me a lovely salad, bread and cold drinks. I have my own room and bathroom and use of the washing machine and dryer! Walked back into town and found the Irish couple again, had the pilgrim special menu at a restaurant bar, which they serve "early" for pilgrims, rather than having to wait until 8:00 when dinner usually starts. Also ran into a bunk mate from Orisson, Yuko from San Francisco, so good to see her.
    More ponderings today about the nature of suffering, the meaning of pilgrimage, the limitations of the human body, etc. Might make sense out of some of it after some sleep 😴    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Leaving Viana 0745
    San Felices presiding over goings out and comings inOne of many freeway underpassesNew style road markers in Rioja areaLogroñoGoose game in courtyard of Logroños church211Long way leaving Logroños

    Stage 9: Viana to Navarrete

    22. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    21.8 kms/13.5 miles, 49°-78°, 8 hours. Was a day of contrasts- started off from Viana chipper and optimistic, hit a wall after Logrono and went through the "dim and grismals" for quite a while. Arrived in Navarrete in the heat of the day when everything still closed for siesta. After a shower and rest I reemerged and wandered around the charming little town (love the tiny pocket parks, benches and planters everywhere) and visited the amazing church. I will have to read up on the history of why such a small town has such a sumptuous church. I've never seen so much gold in one place. I saw a few familiar faces. I seem to have fallen into a loose cohort of other slow walkers, we pass each other, nod smile offer an encouraging word or bit of humor. It's a nice mix of familiarity and independence, everyone going at their own pace and doing their own thing. I overcame my usual reserve and invited some folks to join me for dinner- a couple from Longview Washington and a young man from Wales. Had a wonderful meal of Pintxos or tapas, with chocolate mousse and hot tea for dessert. A reward for the difficulties of the day. A relatively easy day tomorrow I hope, "only" 17 kms/10 miles to Najera.Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Beautiful lake past bird sanctuary
    Rioja wine area1No explanation just "Mooo! I am king of this hill!"1More prayers2Church in Navarrete, amazing!2Pintxos for dinner!The street my hostal is on

    Few extra photos

    22. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Yesterday was a scenic day, had to add a few more pics

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    1Leaving Navarrete about 0800
    Another view of the churchDesayunoSmall village with big billboard, last stop for elevensesWe are outstanding in a fieldNájeraOther side of the river1Welcoming lobby of Hotel Duques de Nájera2Two pilgrims go into a bar...

    Stage 10: Naverrete to Nájera

    23. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    17 km/10 miles, 52°-71°, 5 hours! Arrived in Nájera at 1:00, that's the earliest I've arrived anywhere so far, and the most amazing part is that my back was not screaming at me the whole way! We may have a winner in this new daypack, my body may be getting used to this finally, or it may have been that I walked most of the way with a couple other folks going my speed, talking laughing and singing the whole way. The miles flew by and I wasn't hyper focused on my own sensations. Whatever it was, it was a gift and I am so grateful. I'm tired but not dead tired, and everything does not hurt, hallelujah!
    I found a restaurant serving food early, hit a grocery store when it reopened at 5:00 and scored supplies for tomorrow: 13 miles to Santo Domingo without many services enroute. I have a reservation to stay with Cistercian nuns, should be interesting. What I wouldn't give for a nice hot cup of tea right now. Buenos noches    Læs mere

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