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Camino de Santiago
  • Levana Fletcher

Camino de Santiago

A 54-day adventure by Levana Read more
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  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Stage 28: Foncebadón-Ponferrada

    October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    27.1 km/16.8 miles plus more wandering around after Google maps gave me bad directions to the hotel, 39°-74°, 8:30-6:30 so 10 hours!! what with frequent rest/meal breaks and the aforementioned bad Google maps directions. This was an exhausting day. I left Foncebadón to a beautiful sunrise, had an emotional experience at the Cruz de Ferro (met a German man with a posh camper van, almost hitch hiked a ride to Santiago), then experienced the infamous rocky descent to El Acebo and then Molinaseca (reputation rightly deserved), then to top it off trudged the last 7.7 km/4.8 miles to Ponferrada on pavement in the blazing afternoon sun. But it's amazing what a shower, clean clothes and some dinner can do for my outlook on life. Next up, some hours of restorative sleep. Pictures to followRead more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Holy Mary, Mother of God, pray for us

    Stage 29: Ponferrada-Villafranca

    October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Villafranca del Bierzo, 24.2 km/15 miles, 53°-74°, 7.25 hours
    Got some devastating news from home, going to be walking in silence for a while

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Leaving Herrerias 0830, 48°
    Autumn croci1Entering GaliciaO CebreiroThe forest is ferny and mossyAmanita muscaria1

    Stage 31: Herrerias-Triacastella

    October 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    It would have been 28.9 km/17.9 miles but I stopped at Fonfria and took a taxi the last 9 km/5.4 miles. I was beat after the dramatic climb to O Cebreiro and then the descent, plus it was threatening to rain. Entering the province of Galicia, the climate immediately changed to overcast, cool, windy and moist, reminding me of the Pacific Northwest. I'm checked into the very cozy Casa David, contemplating dinner options.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Green countryside
    The woods are lovely, dark and deep...Tempting but I'm so close to SarriaCruel joke on tired pilgrims1May be nicest room yet at Casa BaranSitting in another Spanish bar, waiting for hamburger and cervesa

    Stage 32: Triacastela-Sarria

    October 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    18.7 km/11.6 miles, 55°-64°, 0800-1330 or 1:30 pm, so only 5.5 hours. I followed the stream of pilgrims leaving town this morning with headlamps on, into the misty moisty woods, the trees dripping with moisture from the night's rain. I took the shorter route which didn't have many places to stop and went through several cow towns, where cows are the main sight, sound and smell.
    So now I'm in Sarria, the beginning of the end, just over 100 kilometers left, 100 kms being the minimum distance one can walk to get the Compostela, the official certificate of completion. So far, I don't see the rumored hordes who are starting here but maybe it will be different once on the trail tomorrow. I'm staying in the old town, near the church where there will be a pilgrim's mass at 7:00 pm.
    I saw a painted yellow arrow today with the words "just love" written on it. That's what it comes down to. In the face of tragedy, even when your heart is broken...just love. ♥️    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Breakfast in Sarria
    2310:00 refueling212:30 lunchFirst cemetery I've seen openGreat dry stack stone wallsAnytime, anywhere2MooOh heck noHahaha

    Stage 33: Sarria-Portomarin

    October 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    22 km/13.6 miles, 58°-75°, 7.5 hours
    I left Sarria at 0800 at a balmy 58°, and there were more pilgrims on the trail than before but it didn't feel congested. They went by in chattering groups looking fresh, clean, excited and energetic. Bless them. I feel like the grizzled veteran hobbling home from the wars.
    There were still long stretches where I walked alone with the birdsong and the wind. I passed the official 100 km marker. Hard to believe I have only 4 more days of walking after today. I'm starting to wonder what it will be like to reenter regular life, out of the Camino bubble.
    We shared the path with cows and farm machinery in many places today. It clouded up just before Portomarin and sprinkled lightly on the last steep descent and on the vertigo inducing high bridge into town. For someone who doesn't like heights (me) it was rather harrowing but I made it.    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Me
    1Blue sky appeared in afternoonApproaching Palas de Rei1Church in Palas de Rei

    Stage 34: Portomarin-Palas de Rei

    October 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I didn't post yesterday so getting caught up.
    24.8 km/15.4 miles, around 60° all day, 9 hours
    Left Portomarin in the dark and pouring rain, first real rain I've encountered in 34 days of walking, other than some light sprinkles. A true test of one's resolve. It stopped about 10:30, followed by intermittent sun breaks, strong wind and sprinkles. My boots were completely sodden though, with squishy socks, thankfully the feet survived intact. I had some short gaiters I tucked my pants into- big mistake. The poncho worked quite well at keeping my upper half dry but only comes down to about my knees, so below that my pants became soaked and seeped into my socks. Solution- some rain pants purchased at a tiny sporting goods store in Palas de Rei. I stayed in La Cabaña, a rustic resort about a kilometer before the town, as did a delightful couple from Denmark Jens and Kirsten, who I first met in Fromista. We hiked into town for dinner then met up again Thursday in Melide heading to Arzua.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Dawn leaving Palas de ReiLove the dry stack stone walls12It's a heffalump!12Nice little fixer upperLooking back at Shangri-la valley1Jens and Kristen

    Stage 35: Palas de Rei-Arzúa

    October 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    28.5 km/17.7 miles, about 60° all day, 10 hours
    Really long day. Couldn't have done it without Jens and Kirsten who overtook me in Melide, about halfway, then we walked the rest of the way together. Kirsten is a really strong walker but patiently accommodated my slow pace and Jens' as well, as he is nursing blisters. I started out from La Cabaña at Palas de Rei at 0745 with my clip on light and was doing well until the torrential rain and wind descended around 11:00 or so, then it was head down and try not to get blown off the path or drowned. Stopped for coffee once, then for lunch just before Melide with a brother and sister from Finland I've been running into for the last week. Then met up with Jens and Kirsten and we struggled through the typhoon until a miraculous clearing of the skies and reappearance of the sun in some Shangri-la valley with a microclimate supporting cacti, aloe vera and palm trees. And no I did not have too much wine with lunch. We stopped for one last coffee and cake before the last 3 or 4 kilometers and got to Arzúa just as the skies darkened again and wind and rain returned. Two more walking days to Santiago.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Blue skies, for the moment
    2Poncho parade1Lunch"For reasons I cannot explain there's some part of me wants to see Graceland"Approaching O Pedrouzo in sunshine

    Stage 36: Arzúa-O Pedrouzo

    October 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    19.3 km/11.9 miles, 60° all day, about 6.5 hours
    I slept in late till 8:40, knew I was exhausted from yesterday so didn't set the alarm. So I had a record late start of 10:00. One advantage was I had the trail to myself for long stretches. I was all suited up due to the 100% chance of rain prediction but it only came in fits and starts around noon. Stopped for coffee, then for lunch around 2:00 during a brief downpour, then on into O Pedrouzo in sunshine again.
    Tomorrow I'll be walking into Santiago, the goal and endpoint of this pilgrimage for me. A newbie just starting off in Sarria asked me a couple days ago "so why did you decide to do the Camino?" and all I could say was "I'm still working that out". What I've managed to come up with so far is (and all of them equally important):
    As a personal challenge and adventure
    A 500 mile act of contrition
    As a prayer for forgiveness and in gratitude
    A way to gain clarity about my life- past, present and future
    I'm going to try to get up and started early tomorrow in hopes of making it to the noon pilgrim's mass in the cathedral. Also have to claim a box at the post office and a suitcase at Express Bourricot, check into my hotel, get cleaned up and rearrange my stuff to take a bus to Porto on Sunday. And just like that, it will be over, the daily forward momentum of walking to Santiago. What will life be like, post-pilgrimage? I guess I will find out.    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    2Dawn after leaving O Pedrouzo
    2Little church open giving credencial stamps38 kms from SantiagoEucalyptus grove1Heading into Santiago2Bring me a shrubbery!1First peek of cathedral122

    Stage 37: O Pedrouzo-Santiago

    October 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    20 km/12.4 miles, about 58° all day, about 5 hours to outskirts of Santiago, 6 hours to the center
    Planned an early start but all the bars serving breakfast on the main street near my pension were packed so I just traipsed off into the dark woods, hoping a town would appear not too far away. And thankfully, an hour later one did appear with a bar where café con leche, fresh OJ and a croissant could be obtained.
    By then the Pilgrim groups were thronging the path. The excitement was palpable, emotions were high, some people were practically running, maybe to make it to Santiago in time for the noon pilgrim's mass? I decided not to stress about when I got there and to just continue my slow but steady pace, which is about all I can do at this point. Don't got many oompahs left, the "hurry" switch is disabled.
    Stopped again at noon for more coffee and a slice of savory empanada then pressed on. The rain held off until the outskirts of Santiago, where I wandered into a fascinating stone sculpture garden created by the old man who let me and a couple German women in to look around. Then began the walk into Santiago in the steady rain and wind.
    I got to the cathedral about an hour later, in light sprinkles, quickly snapped a few photos, then scooted to the Pilgrim office thinking there might be a line to get my compostela. I was in and out in 10 minutes, met Kirsten and Jens coming out as I was going in, and Lindsey from Portland who had been with me at Orrison. I was going to head back to the cathedral to get the victory shot with the cathedral in the background when the heavens opened in a deluge of biblical proportions, completely clearing Praza do Obradoiro, the square in front of the cathedral. So I made a beeline to my hotel and hunkered down until a break in the rain to head to the post office (they evidently lost the box I forwarded from Estella, or couldn't find it) and retrieve the suitcase shipped by Express Bourricot from St Jean to the Loop Inn (it was there!) Then I heard from Janet and David from Longview and we made plans to meet at the cathedral for the 7:30 pm mass and have dinner together afterwards. The mass was lovely and the botafumeiro swung! We found a cozy restaurant and had our last pilgrim supper together.
    Tomorrow I'll figure out how to rearrange my stuff to get ready for the next phase of this journey, 2 weeks in Portugal! And maybe get back to the cathedral for the victory shot. And life post-pilgrimage will begin. I'm sure I'll be unpacking and assimilating the experience for a while.    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    I think this is the Clérigos Church
    City HallArt deco department storePorto U, Lion fountain being renovated1Blue azuelejos tile work on Carmo ChurchFront of church, actually two adjoining churchesClérigos TowerTile work on apartment buildingsDon't see Seattle on thereStreet my apartment is onApartment door

    Post-Camino Days 1- 2

    October 24, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Porto, Portugal
    I don't know how far I walked today, it was about 60°-65°, overcast and breezy with occasional sun breaks and the rain held off all day.
    Post-Camino day 1, yesterday, was a bit much, wrangling newly reclaimed extra luggage in and out of taxis and buses. I wish I had stayed another day in Santiago to process my arrival and see more of the city but Portugal was on the schedule.
    I arrived at this charming apartment at the northwest edge of the historic district around 4:00 pm, got settled in and figured out how everything works, found a grocery store and bought supplies for the week. I actually cooked myself dinner for the first time in over six weeks.
    Today I finally ventured out about noon after a lazy morning in my jammies with coffee and pastries delivered to my door (a service provided by the management!) I felt somewhat lost and disoriented- there were no yellow arrows and scallop shells showing me the way. I had to navigate on my own and decide for myself what my destination was. I saw no fellow pilgrims with backpacks and walking sticks. I'm not part of that westward walking crew anymore, won't be seeing the familiar passing cast of characters. I did see the brother and sister from Finland one last time at the bus station in Santiago yesterday. They were going to Finisterre, the end of the world, before flying home.
    After studying a map and Rick Steve's guidebook, I walked to the upper part of the city center, following his walking tour. Tomorrow I'll go down to the Ribeira waterfront area, and find the cathedral where the Camino Portuguese starts. And maybe get a haircut.    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Clérigos Church with tower behind, up the hill
    São Bento train stationPorto Cathedral2Start of Camino Portuguese1San Ildefonso, Praça da BatalhaHuge old trees in city parkElaborate tile sidewalk, Rua de Santa CatalinaRua de Santa Catalina, main shopping dragAnother blue tiled churchHenry the Navigator SquareRibeira waterfrontSt John the Baptist, Praça da Ribeira

    Porto Days 3-6

    October 25, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I've been wandering around Porto, taking in the sights, enjoying taking it easy. I can't understand a word of spoken Portuguese which feels somewhat disorienting. But most people here seem to speak some English, unlike Spain. It has been in the 60s, windy and rainy, with sun breaks and a couple mostly sunny afternoons.
    Today I'm going to take the metro out to the airport to pickup the rental car. I'm slightly terrified at the prospect of driving it back into the city and finding a place to park it. Tomorrow morning I want to leave at 7:00 am to drive 3 hours to Lisbon airport to pick up my friend Nina who is joining me for the last week of this grand adventure, in Cascais. Then we fly back to Seattle November 5. And I rejoin the rest of my life already in progress.
    PS rental car retrieval successful! Even got a place to park near the apartment. Tomorrow to Lisbon    Read more

    Trip end
    November 5, 2022
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